MAY 2020
En gl i s h | N ° 57
T HE TR O USE RS
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De ar siste rMA G r ea d er s It has been a very long time since the last sisterMAG issue – and what a time it was! As everybody else, the sisterMAG team had to refocus and reorganize after the outbreak of Corona and some of the ideas that we had for this and the following issues were no longer valid. Questions such as »What will the future hold?«, »How can collaboration from remote work?«, »Will partner projects be canceled?« came to the fore, and securing the existence of our company was paramount.
issue on p. 22 and of course at www.sistermagpatterns.com . In line with this, sisterMAG 57 has a clear fashion focus: Open up the stage for »TROUSERS«! We graded almost all sisterMAG trousers patterns, revised and expanded the instructions and sorted them into trousers styles for you. Maybe our shop inspires you to make your own sistermagpatterns pants? We would be very happy to see your creations! Simply tag @sistermagpatterns or set the #SISTERMAGPATTERNS hashtag. If you have any questions about our shop or if you notice things that are still missing or something that doesn't work, please write an email to mail@sistermagpatterns.com.
However, after the first weeks in this exceptional situation were survived, the desire for creative things awoke again and we decided to use the excess time due to But back to trousers! While canceled partner project to researching this issue, we finally start a heart project: quickly realized how interesting this garment is. It has been an SISTERMAGPATTERNS integral part of men's wardrobes our ecommerce shop for DIY for centuries. However, it only sisterMAG sewing patterns. Find entered women's wardrobes in more information about it in this the 19th century – and since then 3
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it has been winning, as a look into all of our closets shows. In our article »A little history on women’s trousers« you can learn more about the pioneers of women’s pants. Like no other piece of clothing, trousers are synonymous with playing with genders, their ambivalence and their non-existence. In the article »The trousers breeches parts« you can find out how women used to switch between the sexes in theater already in earlier times. The absence of defined genders - »gender neutrality« - provides many exciting concepts in entertainment and beauty. We research some of them in our articles on the showtime series »Billions« and in »Genderless Beauty«. We are very happy that we finally launch #sisterMAG57 and are very excited to hear from you! We send greetings to all sisterMAG readers, whether near or far – take care of yourself and stay healthy!
Yours, Toni & the sisterMAG team
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TABLE OF CONTENT
S I S T E R M A G # 5 7
TROUSERS IN THE ART
03 08 10
168
POCKET RECIPES
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS OF THE ISSUE DOWNLOAD OVERVIEW IMPRINT
TROUSERS
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SISTERMAGPATTERNS
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TROUSERS - AND THEIR HISTORY
42
FASHION COLLECTION
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PUT SPRING INTO YOUR WARDROBE!
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WHO'S WEARING THE TROUSERS?
Trousers
An overview
With trousers
Boho-style-inspiration on Instagram
Trousers in art
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THE ORDER OF THE GARTER »May he be shamed who thinks badly of it«
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TROUSERS AND THEIR HISTORY
FOOD FEATURE: POCKET RECIPES By Carole Poirot
BOHO STYLE ON INSTAGRAM
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DO CLOTHES MAKE THE LANGUAGE? A touch of past glory
PAGE 12 – SISTERMAG PATTERNS SHOP PAGE 158 – VIRTUAL TRAVELLING
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HISTORY OF THE UNDERPANTS
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STARTUP SPOTLIGHT:
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ACCESSORIES FOR TROUSERS
From legwear to g-string
FUCKUP NIGHTS
Put your trousers in the spotlight!
GENDER IMAGES
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A LITTLE HISTORY
140
THE TROUSERS BREECHES PARTS
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THEY, THEIRS & THEM
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»GENDERLESS BEAUTY«
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THE SISTERMAG ONLINE GUIDE
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TODAY YOU HAVE TO READ
of women's trousers
Who's wearing the trousers?
In the Showtime series Billions
Self-care for everyone!
Against boredom
sisterMAG book column
CONTRIBUTORS Text
Proof
Translation
Lea Becker lea-becker.net
Amie McCracken amiemccracken.com
Barbara Eichhammer the-little-wedding-corner.de
Barbara Eichhammer the-little-wedding-corner.de
Judith Remke intext-bremen.de
Ira Häussler
Martina Klaric @buchberuehrung
sisterMAG Team
Alexander Kords kords.net Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
Christian Näthler @iamvolta
sisterMAG Team
Dr. Michael Neubauer Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees sisterMAG Team
Photo & Video Carole Poirot @carole.poirot
FOOD Carole Poirot @carole.poirot
sisterMAG Team
MODEL Evi Neubauer @neu1bauer
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Styling Evi Neubauer @neu1bauer
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THE COVER MODEL & OUTFIT Evi Neubauer
PHOTOGRAPHER Dr. Michael Neubauer
How do you shoot a cover and a fashion spread during a lockdown with re stricted movement? By our fashion director Evi not on ly creating the outfit, but this time steppi ng in front of the camera and sisterMAG author and husband Michael taking the ph otos. This was followed by an intensive exch ange about RAW files and transfers of the pict ures ;)! The outcome of this shoot in the airy upper floor of our parents' house are photos of the new trousers collection in bright co lours that scare away any corona gloom.
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CALZONE
MAULTASCHEN (GERMAN RAVIOLI)
RHUBARN & GINGER TURNOVERS
SISTERMAG PATTERN 48-1
SISTERMAG PATTERN 57-3
SISTERMAG PATTERN 40-5
DIY POTATO PRINT
DIY LEATHERBIRD
VIDEOS
DOWNLOADS
MULTIMEDIA
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S T AY I N T O U C H !
FOLLOW US!
Follow along our stories and daily news from the sisterMAG office easily on Instagram! You can find magazine content, behind-the-scenes and snapshots of our contributors. And of course, prize draws, invitations and other exclusive activities can be found on @SISTER_MAG
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s i s te r M AG Pa tte r n s
Finally live!
A project we've been working on for a while is the sisterMAG Patterns Shop . In the first step, we go live with 10 patterns for pants, overalls and shorts! In the past weeks numerous team members have written the instructions, the patterns got graded in sizes 34 to 44 and the shop has been set up. We definitely know: not everything is ready yet, but we are happy to finally be able to provide you with graded patterns in numerous sizes and we are full of ideas for further shop details and contents! You can find the shop here: www.sistermagpatterns.com . On the following pages we'll present to you the first sewing patterns which you can find online in our new shop.
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s i s te r M AG Pa tte r n s
What can you expect?
What does it actually mean to offer graded sewing patterns in a shop? A little look behind the scenes quickly showed the whole team: A whole lot of work was awaiting us! The patterns from Evi, which she has developped in the course of 8 years, are first scanned by her and digitized by the design team, i.e. drawing the sample size as vector.
in English with hopefully more languages to come! In recent months we also have made small videos for many patterns which should show you more clearly what the finished garment will look like in the end. Below you can see an example of the pleated trousers with cell phone pockets on the side:
With SCHNITT Berlin we have found a wonderful partner for grading – Victoria and Johanna convert the patterns into sizes 34 to 44. Another team is working on the instructions for you, so that nothing stands in the way of your sewing success. These detailed instructions are then proofread and translated into English, because our shop is primarily intended as an international shop
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Today you'll find nine different trousers in the shop and we hope we do have every shape you desire: from elegant to casual, from short
4 0 -3 WIDE PLE ATED TROUSERS
49 -2 B ERMUDA SHORTS WITH BOW
41-3 PAPERBAG TROUSERS
to long and made from a wide range of fabrics and levels of difficulty. Here is a brief overview of the first patterns in our shop:
40-5 LINEN SHORTS
57-3 LOUNGEWE AR PANTS
4 8-1 PLE ATED TROUSERS
41-7 BUSINESS PANTS
50-6 STIRRUP TROUSERS WITH EL ASTIC FOOT LOOPS
41-5 HIGH-WAISTED PANTS
In the next days and weeks new items of clothin will be added regularly, which is why we ask you to follow us on Instagram and/or Facebook . There we will always
post new shop patterns. we look forward to your feedback and let us know if you have any questions or find a mistake – we are very grateful for your input!
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Photos: Robin Kater | Model: Latisha Nicholson
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W i d e p l ea te d t ro u s e r s
These wide pleated trousers from our linen shoot in SISTERMAG ISSUE 40 should ideally be made from lightweight linen and is perfect for warm summer days. The trousers are highwaisted. The front features a 16cm zipper, two buttons and two pockets. For a secure fit, you can use the belt loops with a matching belt.
ED T A E L P E 4 8-1 WID RS TROUSE
SHOP HERE
If you want this model of trousers, you can now go directly to the pattern here!
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PA T TE RN S
Linen Shorts
Fotos: Jaclyn Locke | Model: Kim Ahrens
These airy, short shorts from our linen shoot in sisterMAG issue 40 should ideally be made from lightweight linen and are perfect for hot summer days. The front features a 16cm zipper and a total of 3 buttons. For a secure fit, you can use the belt loops with a matching belt.
SHOP HERE Prepare for summer and try out the pattern yourself: now here in the shop!
40-5 RTS O H S N E LIN SISTER-MAG.COM
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Photos: Robin Kater | Model: Latisha Nicholson
THE TROUSERS
Photos: Dr. Michael Neubauer | Model: Evi Neubauer
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L o u n g ewea r Pa n t s A creation from sisterMAG issue 57 - comfortable jogging pants / lounge wear pants made of jersey. Perfect for a cozy time at home or the short way to the supermarket. Also ideal for a workout in your own four walls or in the park opposite. Combined in a cool way, this model can also look casual and elegant at the same time!
57-3 EAR W E G N U LO RS E G G O J PANTS /
SHOP HERE You can f ind the pattern for this model of trousers in different sizes here.
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PA T TE RN S
Bermuda Shorts
These stylish, knee-length Bermuda pants from sisterMAG issue 49 are made from a comfortable material of your choice. It has an integrated, practical cell phone pocket and two bows on the side legs. It is perfect for warmer days.
MUDA R E B 2 49 SHORTS
SHOP HERE If you want to try out this model, you will f ind the pattern in your size here in the shop.
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Photos: Cristopher Santos | Model: Julia Sophie Wagner
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PA T TE RN S
P l ea te d Pa n t s These women's pleated trousers from our shoot at the RuĂ&#x;wurmsche Herrenhaus in sisterMAG issue 48 are made from lightweight twill, cotton gabardine, mixed fabric or wool. The front waistband features pleat, the hip and bottom area are made to be loose. The side of the left leg features a practical pocket for mobile phones. The trousers have two back pockets with flaps and two front pockets.
SHOP HERE Here you come directly to the pattern download of these trousers. Give it a try!
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Photos: Oh Hedwig | Model: Sophia Werner
4 8-1 NTS A P D E T PLEA
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Photos: Marco Di Filippo | Model: Gudy Herder
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Business Pa n t s These slim women's business trousers from the ÂťSuitsÂŤ shoot in sisterMAG 41 can be made from mid-weight twill or cotton gabardine, a mixed fabric or wool with elasthane. The side seams are detailed with decrative stitching. The front features an 18cm zipper, a hook and eyelet to close and two side pockets.
41-7 NTS A P S S E BUSIN
SHOP HERE On the scissors, ready, go! Here you come directly to the pattern of these stylish business trousers.
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41-3 NTS A P G A B PA PER
Pa p e r ba g Pa n t s These loose women's »paperbag« trousers from the »Suits« shoot in sisterMAG issue 41 are made from cotton poplin. Ideally use a cotton fabric with »paper touch« that lightly rustles under your touch. The front features an 18cm zipper and a button to close. Like an American paper bag, the trousers are bunched with a belt up top.
SHOP HERE Find the cool "Paperbag" Design in our shop and start sewing.
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Photos: Marco Di Filippo | Model: Gudy Herder
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PA T TE RN S
50-6 ERS S U O R T STIRRUP
S t i r r u p Tro u s e r s with elastic fo o t l o o p s These slim, comfortable stirrup trousers with elastic foot loops from sisterMAG's 50th anniversary issue slim down around the ankles and have an overall narrow fit. The foot loops prevent the trousers from slipping up. The model can be a high-quality substitute for leggings. A suitable fabric is cotton-stretch. An interesting fact: German fashion designer Maria Bogner invented elastic stirrup trousers for skiing in 1931. The paper New York Times reported on the sensation and ÂťBognerÂŤ became synonymous with skiing trousers.
SHOP HERE
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These stirrup trousers are now available for you to try out here in the sisterMAG Patterns shop.
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Photos: Dr. Michael Neubauer | Model: Evi Neubauer
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Photos: Marco Di Filippo | Model: Gudy Herder
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H i g h -wa i s te d Pa n t s These comfortable, highwaisted women's trousers from the »Suits« shoot in sisterMAG issue 41 are made from twill or fine panama, a thicker cotton fabric. The front features an 18cm zipper and two side pockets. A total of 6 buttons is used for the front and back pockets and the front closure.
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41-5 NTS A P D E T S I GH-WA I
SHOP HERE Along this way if you want to try out this model – in the right size for you in the shop.
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O V E R V I E W
As is to be expected, Germanic people were the first central European people to wear trousers. To sufficiently protect one of the most important body parts against the cold, harsh environment, dangerous animals or long trips on horseback, small fig leaves or loincloths simply weren’t enough.
A N
trousers – and their history
H IST O RY
Text : M I C H A E L N E U B A U E R
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Bra ie s
Fu stanella
TROUSER-LIKE CONSTRUCTIONS – WRAPPED AROUND THE LEGS DOWN TO THE ANKLES – WERE MADE FROM LEATHER, NATURAL FIBRES AND FURS AND HELD UP BY BELTS. Long before this, from 700 to 500 BC, the people living in Eurasian border regions had already invented similar creations. They were nomads and horse people. In central Europe, where the people we now call Celts resided between 800 and 500 BC, these previous inventions then led to covers similar to trousers that Germanic people later copied. Not so the Romans! The »fashions« of wild barbarians wouldn’t do in Rome. It took time to soften this aversion as
Roman soldiers slowly discovered how practical these leg covers were. During the early Middle Ages, often known as »DARK AND REGRESSIVE« times, not much else happened in terms of fashion. Only during the 11th and 12th centuries, when SALIANS and STAUFFERS reigned, things changed slowly. Huge churches were built, and men started wearing short underpants, so called BRAIES . When it suddenly got cold, additional legwear could be buttoned onto the bottom. The actual trousers were fairly fitted, long and worn with long socks and ankle-high shoes, as well as a short, tight and belted skirt with a collar. During the period, secular
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S cot t is h Kilt
Harem p ants
and monastic clothing visually differed but trousers turned into a status symbol for men. Exceptions were the SCOTTISH KILT and the GREEK FUSTANELLA . The Renaissance period is known for slim, tight trousers that almost look like tights – men’s lives were made easier by an in-sewn cup that covered sensitive areas. Then, things got creative. In Switzerland and Southern Germany, men started cutting their trousers open in restricting areas and then put billowing pieces of fabric underneath so they would peek out and create the typical look of HAREM PANTS . They looked a little like two balls of fabric SISTER-MAG.COM
surrounding the pelvis and all its secrets and accentuated long legs in tight tights. During their most popular times, they were worn with and without cups in courts all over Europe. Simpler folk wore regular trousers during the 16th century that went slightly below the knee and were tied off there. They were known as bloomers. The baroque era, time of French King Louis XIV, saw wide, knee-length legwear with lace trimmings that today remind us of women’s skirts. The so-called »DUKE-OF-RHINE
TROUSERS«
were adorned with countless ribbons that enhanced a feminine look. Towards the 17th century,
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looks became simpler with tighter trousers worn with matching jackets – they were called »CULOTTES« (small trousers). The French Revolution gentrified fashion. Inspired by cuts from progressive England, trousers were more comfortable, straight and were, at ankle length, called »SANSCULOTTES« . This model, similar to our long trousers today, still had to prove itself in Prussia in the 19th century but then quickly became a European favourite. French revolutionaries also wore so-called pantalons with tube-like legs paired with high boots. The middle of the 19th century also saw the invention of buttoned up flies. Around the turn of the 19th to 20th century, people’s increasing love for sports led to the creation of knickerbockers. Cut and width of these historical trousers varied greatly – they often ended one hand’s width underneath the knee. Long trousers remained men’s favourites, sometimes wider, slimmer, with or without a cuff, long or cropped at ankle length, striped or neutral, with or without trimmings – but always faithful servants that make us feel dressed. The whole situation is
Sanscu lottes incredibly colourful today: short trousers and long trousers made from fabric or leather can now be dyed all sorts of colours. A trouser-related revolution came with the invention of the jeans and the related 1873 patent for thick, blue, cotton fabric. LEVI STRAUSS had brought the idea for robust worker’s clothing from Genoa to America. He used the blue fabric, secured it with the typical rivets and turned Genoa’s French name »GENES« into the American-English friendly term »JEANS« . The triumph of these trousers lasts until today – and the old trend of cutting holes into trousers still works…
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What about
Women SISTER-MAG.COM
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Geor ge S a n d It is said that trouser-wearing women were seen in the ancient times and never again. Women’s trousers slowly came back in the second half of the 19th century, as legwear underneath outer skirts to protect women from ill intentions. As part of the first wave of feminism, many women like AMELIA BLOOMER and GEORGE SAND decided to openly wear trousers. The breeches parts of 19th century opera, operettas and plays brought women closer to trousers just like VARIETÉS and sports. Especially riding horses and cycling required women to confidently wear comfortable and adaptable clothing. The typical breeches for female riders were very wide around the thighs, allowing a secure seat in any saddle. For cycling, trouser skirts came
into fashion, and the increasing involvement of women in social and work life, in sports and the military led to trouser-wearing women. Different fashionable varieties show off women’s legs just as well: wide, tailored styles; straight business trousers and figure-hugging skinny jeans. The union of women and trousers wasn’t always welcome – until recent times, trouser-wearing women were often targets of misogyny. At sisterMAG, we love women in trousers – although the occasional skirt is always welcome!
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When this issue was written and produced, all of us had to stay at home. The COR ONA vir us kept the whole world in its claws – and even today, not ever ything is "nor mal" again. Our fashion d irector Evi also stayed at home and used the time for some beautiful designs that can be enjoyed at home as well as during a walk outside. These designs include two pairs of pants, which you can now find in various sizes in the sisterMAG Patterns shop, in addition to other patterns. Look forward to comfortable sweatpants/ joggers, which should never only be worn at home and a wide jumpsuit with lapel collar. Add to that our painted cover jacket and a short coat. Photo g rap hed at ho m e f rom D r. Mich a el Neu bau er | M o d el: E vi Neub a uer SISTER-MAG.COM
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PAT T E R N S
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5 7 - 1 H A N D - PA I N T E D J AC K E T
SHOP HERE
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Have a look how this jacket was made:
This jacket will put you in a good mood! It is made of a thick and rather coarse material, oversized and over-and-overly painted with flowers. The textile colours with their vibrant colours will make this jacket into a real eye-catcher
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5 7 - 2 S H O RT C OAT P OR SHHI E P O H E S R ME ZUH
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Wear this jacket with our comfy joggers
A short coat perfect for cooler summer days and as a stylish jacket for the short way to the next shop or supermarket. With oversized pockets, your wallet and keys will fit perfectly ;)!
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SHOP HERE
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5 7 - 3 L O U N G E W E A R PA N T S
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A new creation for this new sisterMAG issue.
Comfortable sweatpants / loungewear pants made from jersey. Ideal for a cozy time at home or the short way to the supermarket. Also ideal for a workout in your own four walls or in the park across the street. Combined in a cool way, this pair of pants can also look casual and elegant at the same time. 49
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57-4 JUMPSUIT WITH LAPEL COLLAR
This wide cut overall is made of a light material of your choice. An exciting lapel collar adorns the neckline and on the front is a button panel with 3 buttons. Combined with a waist belt the garment becomes a real eyecatcher!
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A new creation for this sisterMAG issue
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SHOP HERE
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B O H O - S T Y L E - I N S P I R A T I O N
O N
I N S T A G R A M
put spring into your wardrobe!
FA SH IO N
foxytrash
vintagecloudds
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celine_lavieboheme
The outfits and looks of this sisterMAG issue were all created with the style of »BOHO« in mind. What that means to us? Flowing fabric, floral patterns, lace, hats, and extraordinary creations! »BOHO« STYLES all have a feel of freedom and lightness – something we all need in the current times. We searched for the best boho styles on Instagram and found some great accounts that each put their own spin on boho, living the style and carrying it out into the world. If you’re on the lookout for spring feelings for your wardrobe, too, come along and be inspired!
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madebyalana madebyalana. com
Alana
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celine_lavieboheme lavieboheme.ch
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emmbecks ampersandandattire. com
Emily
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Jessica
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vintagecloudds
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Jess
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jgoodtime
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luna.li nd s a y lunalindsay.com
Luna
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foxytrash
Michaela
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Sarah
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sarahjudgee
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Tori
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ibizabohogirl ibizabohogirl.com
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T R O U S E R S
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A R T
who's wearing the trousers?
A RT W O RKS
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TROUSERS IN ART WHO' S WEARING THE TROUSERS? For our new 2020 SERIES , we are showing you art by more and less well-known artists in each sisterMAG issue. The focus is always on a certain piece of clothing that threads its way through the issue. For this second issue in 2020, we’ll be looking at TROUSERS . Breeches, Marlene-trousers, corduroy pants, the famous jeans, tights, culottes… there are thousands of varieties and shapes of trousers. Let’s take a closer look at TROUSERS AND THEIR WEARERS IN ART and see who, historically speaking, quite literally wears the trousers…
Text: CAROLIN KRALAPP
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Mary Cassatt (1844 - 1926) American
painter MARY CASSATT became an artist against the wishes of her father and popularised IMPRESSIONISM IN THE US . This portrait shows her nephew Eddy with a dog. Clad in a deep red ensemble, his trousers are adorned with ruffles of white lace. It’s not necessarily a modern look in today’s terms but was very on trend back in the day – especially combined with Eddy’s perfectly bored fashion-face. Mary Cassatt, »Eddy Cassatt (Edward Buchanan Cassatt)«, 1875, 32,4 x 44 cm, National Gallery of Art Washington DC
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henri ToulouseLautrec (1864 – 1901) HENRI
TOULOUSE-LAUTREC
was famous for the posters he designed for the Parisian establishment MOULIN ROUGE because they captured the legendary »BELLE ÉPOQUE« . Next to this, he was passionate about painting individual people like this ballet dancer trying to adjust her pink tights while holding onto her tutu with her chin. Any person that has worn ill-fitting tights will be able to feel for this lady…
Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, »Dancer Adjusting Her Tights«, 1890, 59 x 46 cm, Oil on carton, Private collection
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Egon Schiele (1890 - 1918) Austrian painter EGON SCHIELE represents the »WIENER MODERNE« . Here, he painted an unkown woman trying to get her legs into a brown pair of trousers – often a complicated first step to wearing them. Significant about this sketch are the clear contours outlining areas of colour, anchoring shapes within the picture.
Egon Schiele, »Weibliches Modell in rotem Gewand (Female Model with Red Dress)«, 1914, 48,1 x 31,9 cm, Sketch, Graphische Sammlung Albertina Wien
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Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (1880 - 1938) The effective colours used by expressionist German painter ERNST
LUDWIG
KIRCHNER
roughly depict the trousers worn by two hiking brothers in a mountainous landscape. Hiking clothes need to be comfortable and functional – let’s hope these two guys were well equipped for their long journey!
Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, »Zwei Brüder M. (Mardersteig) (Two Brothers M.)«, 1921, 168 x 120,2 cm, Oil on Canvas, Pinakothek der Moderne München
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David Hockney *1937
A PIONEER OF BRITISH »POP ART« AND ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE ARTISTS STILL ALIVE: DAVID HOCKNEY.
Up until 2019 he was firmly in the lead, selling »Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures)« for an incredible 90.3 million USD at an auction at Christie’s. This piece shows Hockney’s frequently painted close friend MAURICE PAYNE perched on a stool in relaxed blue jeans, looking right at the viewer. Hockney’s fascination for portraits is well-known: his series »82 PORTRAITS AND 1 STILL-LIFE« , also part of an exhibition, shows scenes similar to the one above. David Hockney, »Maurice Payne«, 2008, 30,3 x 45,4 cm, The David Hockney Foundation
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Erwin Wurm *1954 LAST BUT NOT LEAST, LET’S HAVE A LOOK AT THESE UNUSUAL TROUSERS!
The acrylic statue »TELEKINETIC MASTURBATOR« by Austrian concept-artist ERWIN WURM shows an armless man in very flamboyant, tight silver trousers. An unusual piece on public display! Wurm’s sculptures often have a humourous aspect to them, such as this one’s title. In most cases, they are comments on art practice and question the industry. This collection of trousers in art could go on forever… why don’t you keep your eyes peeled for more crazy pants the next time you’re in a museum!
Erwin Wurm, »Telekinetic Masturbator«, 2009, 47 x 12,1 x 10,2 cm
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I T ÂŤ O F T H I N K S
B A D L Y
revolu tionarie s a nd armed forces h a ve of commu nity a m o ng
their common (a nd
H E
S H A M E D
had to c reate a se nse
B E
W H O
k ing s, preside nts,
their collabora to rs a nd su bordinates. Only th is way, could they rea c h often qu estion a b le ) g oals.
Âť M A Y
The Order of the Garter
H IST O RY
A t all times,
Text : M I C H A E L N E U B A U E R
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ED UA RD I I I .
Edw a rd I I I o f E ngl a nd ( 13 1 2 - 1 3 7 7 ) k new this to o – a nd it m a d e him o ne o f th e m o st sig nif ica nt lea d ers o f the Mid d le A ge s.
For over 50 years, he reigned over the country until his death. Unlike his father and predecessor, KING EDWARD II (1284 – 1327), he found that his cultural, artistic and most importantly, his military goals, could only be achieved if he could unite noblemen and other subjects. Edward knew the story of KING ARTHUR – he gathered the country’s best men, knights and nobility and gained their trust by sitting them down at a round table and listening to their opinions. The table was round to prevent SISTER-MAG.COM
fights about the most prestigious seats, and unison was the goal of the meetings! Edward needed this unison for the fight for the French throne, to strengthen the English nation, language and culture. Following Arthur’s example, he invited 24 virtuous men to his »ROUND TABLE« and generously awarded them British titles (Earls and Dukes). But something was missing to unite them as a group – a visible sign of belonging, the titles he had granted and the sense of superiority they represented. An order was the perfect solution:
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a special, exclusive and original creation that had never been seen before. In 1348 , Edward created this specialty: the ORDER OF THE GARTER . With the motto »HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE« or »MAY HE BE SHAMED WHO THINKS BADLY OF IT« , the king had
picked up the garter that had flown off his lovers’ leg during dancing and attached it to his own limbs.
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»Ma y he be sh a med who thinks b a d l y of i t«
A n idea h a d b e e n b o r n th a t carries o n until to d a y: th e order is th e o l d est a nd most pre stigio us a w a rd of the Unite d K ingd o m , representing th e h igh e st hon ou r a w a rd ed b y th e country. I t is a l so ca l led th e • Order of the blue garter, or • Order of St.George (he’s the patron saint of the order) • The Most Noble Order of the Garter The garter is blue and has to be worn underneath the left knee. Women who have been admitted to the order since 1987 are called LADIES OF THE GARTER and wear it around their left upper arm. The order is always made up of the King, the PRINCE OF WALES and a maximum of 24 other living knights that have been appointed by the King. Criteria for admission are extraordinary services to the country and the crown.
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Members of the ROYAL FAMILY and international knights are not counted in the 24 – just like international royalty, they are counted as honorary members. In 2008, PRINCE WILLIAM was appointed as the 1,000th member by his grandmother, QUEEN ELIZABETH II . By being awarded the garter, members immediately become royals and carry the title »SIR« or »LADY «. The order is structured very clearly, with six high-ranking roles. Important are the regalia, which include a chain with a miniature of ST. GEORGE fighting the dragon and a star-shaped brooch to be attached to the chest that shows the George’s cross. For the initiation, special rites
and dress are crucial. Every year on a Monday in June, the »GARTER DAY« takes place as a celebratory member’s meeting. Newcomers are given their regalia in the throne room and, after a shared meal, the entire group proceeds to walk to service at the ST. GEORGE’S CHAPEL , wearing their blue gowns as they greet the crowds. The church is decorated with the flags of each member and the ritual of the service follows strict rules, including a garter prayer, a hymn and a final blessing. Afterwards, the members often meet at the ROYAL ASCOT HORSE RACES , the oldest and most important racing event hosted by the Royal Family.
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Nicht ganz unerwartet, waren die Germanen in Mitteleuropa die ersten, die Hosen trugen. Gegen Kälte, unwegsames Gelände, gefährliche Tiere oder beim Reiten war der Schutz einer der wichtigsten Körperregionen durch ein Feigenblatt oder einen Lendenschurz einfach zu wenig.
Text : M I C H A E L N E U B A U E R
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Well packaged, the filling tastes even more delicious
Pocket Recipes
Food photographer and stylist Carole Poirot has come up with something very special for our new issue with the main theme »The Trousers«: »Pocket Recipes« with delicious fillings. Calzone, rhubarb turnovers and »Maultaschen« (German ravioli) are waiting for you. Enjoy the meal!
Calzone Maultaschen Rhubarb Pockets R EC I P E S & P H OTO S :
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C a l z one SERVES
PREP TIME
2 hungry people or 4 if served as a small pizza
BAKING TIME
1 hour
20 minutes
INGREDIENTS FOR THE D OUGH
FOR DIE FILLING
300 g
flour
8 tbsp (around 200ml) passata
5 g
dry (instant) yeast
100 g spicy pepperoni
4 g
salt
150 g grated mozzarella
200 ml
warm water
2
8 ml
olive oil
Around 12 fresh basil leaves, torn into pieces
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garlic cloves, minced
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How it's done
1.
Starting with the dough, put the dry ingredients into a bowl and mix.
1 1 . Press/roll
2.
Now add the water and olive oil and combine to a dough.
3.
Tip the dough onto a floured worksurface and knead it for 10 minutes.
1 2 . Preheat your oven to 220°C. 1 3 . Mix passata and minced
4.
The dough should become smooth and stretchy.
5.
Form the dough into a ball and cover with a little olive oil.
6.
Put it into a bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave to rise for at least 1 hour.
7.
Once the dough has risen, divide it into two pieces.
8.
Put it onto a well-floured worksurface and press it into a circle.
9.
Turn the dough around and keep pressing it.
until you have a circle of around 30cm diameter.
garlic.
1 4 . Put half of the passata onto each dough circle, leaving a rim as wide as your finger.
1 5 . Top
ONE HALF OF THE CIRCLE with the basil leaves, peperoni slices and grated mozzarella.
1 6 . Now
fold the “empty” half over all the ingredients.
1 7 . Pinch the edges together and fold them over to seal.
1 8 . Put the calzones in the oven
and bake for around 15 minutes until they’re puffed up and golden.
1 9 . Serve with a salad and a glass of wine.
1 0 . Alternatively,
you can also use a rolling pin.
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M au l tasch en (German ravioli in chicken broth)
SERVES 4
PREP TIME 1 hour
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS FOR THE PASTA D OUGH FOR THE FILLING 260 g flour
200 g
minced beef
3
100 g
fresh spinach
eggs plus 1
1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt
1 medium onion, finely diced 1 small bunch of fresh parsley
TO SERVE
1 large egg + 1 egg (whisked) for brushing
800-1000 ml chicken broth
2 tbsp
breadcrumbs
Parsley leaves to garnish
¼ tsp
ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tbsp
olive oil
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How it's done 1. 2.
3.
4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Start with the dough by putting the flour and salt onto your work surface. Make a well in the middle and add the eggs and olive oil. Using a fork, start stirring the eggs and slowly adding the flour into the middle. Once all the flour is mixed with the eggs and oil, knead the dough until smooth and then into a ball. Wrap the ball in clingfilm and put it in the fridge for half an hour. Cook the spinach in boiling water for three minutes, then drain and leave to cool. Gently fry the diced onion in the olive oil. Once translucent, add the beef and stir. Fry until cooked through, but not heavily browned. Once done, take the pan off the heat.
9 . Tip the meat into a large bowl. 1 0 . Chop the spinach and most
of the parsley (leaving some to go into the broth), then add to the bowl.
1 1 . Add
the breadcrumbs and
egg.
1 2 . Now mix all the ingredients
together until well combined.
1 3 . Add the nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste.
1 4 . Take
the dough out of the fridge and divide it into four pieces.
1 5 . Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
1 6 . On a floured surface, roll each
piece out as thin as possible (about 1mm). Alternatively, use a pasta machine.
1 7 . Once rolled out, cut the dough into around 13 x 8cm pieces.
1 8 . You should get 16 pieces. 1 9 . Put a heaped tablespoon of
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the minced meat mix into the middle of half the dough pieces.
2 0 . Brush
the edges with the whisked egg.
»pocket« off the worksurface and add it to the boiling water.
2 4 . Cook
for 10 minutes – depending on the size of your pot, you can add several at a time. Just be careful that they don’t stick together.
2 1 . Place
the second piece of dough on top and gently smooth the edges down from the centre outwards to avoid any airpockets.
2 2 . Now use a fork to crimp the
2 5 . Repeat done.
2 6 . Serve
in hot chicken broth garnished with parsley.
edges.
2 3 . Carefully
lift
the
filled
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until all pieces are
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Rhubar b & Ginger Turnovers
SERVES 4
PREP TIME 1,5 hours
BACKING TIME 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS FOR THE FILLING
FOR THE D OUGH
250g rhubarb, cut into 5 cm chunks
140g plain flour
1 large piece of fresh ginger, around 3cm long, grated
1tbsp caster sugar
80g caster sugar
A pinch of salt
1
egg, whisked
100g cold butter, cubed
3-4tbsp ice cold water
Around 2tbsp demerara sugar
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1. 2.
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How it's done
To make the dough, combined the flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl.
leave to cool.
1 1 . Remove the dough from the fridge.
Add the cubed butter to the flour mix and cut the butter with a knife into the flour until you have a rough dough.
1 2 . On a floured surface, roll the
3.
Add the water spoon by spoon and gently bring the dough together.
4.
diameter from the dough. Place 4 circles onto a baking tray.
For the dough into a ball, cover in cling film and put it into the fridge for an hour.
1 4 . Now place Âź of the rhubarb
Preheat your oven to 200C.
1 5 . Brush the edges of the dough
5. 6.
Cut the rhubarb into roughly 5cm pieces and lay them onto a baking tray.
dough out to a thickness of around 2mm.
1 3 . Cut 8 circles of around 12cm
into the middle of 4 the circles. with the whisked egg.
1 6 . Place the second circle on top and press down.
7.
Grate the ginger and add to the rhubarb.
1 7 . You
8.
Add sprinkle the sugar on top. Cover the tray with foil and bake for 15 minutes.
1 8 . Brush the top of the pastry
After 15 minutes, remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes.
1 9 . Put the tray in the oven and
9.
can either crimp the edges with your fingers or a fork. with some egg and sprinkle with sugar.
1 0 . Once
done, remove the rhubarb from the oven and
bake for around 20 minutes until golden.
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D A Y S T H E S E P R O V E R B S W I T H I N T E R A C T I N G A R E W E H O W
T H A T A L L A N D S W E A T P A N T S
do clothes make the language?
A T O UCH O F PA ST GL O RY
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Text: Elisabeth Stursberg After contemplating why proverbs tend to have something antiquated, slightly quaint about them in the last issue, we are now turning our eyes to the present. After all, it is an interesting question: How do new proverbs come into being, and which sentences from our language today might one day become proverbial? Succinct quotes have great potential, for instance, by the unforgotten Karl Lagerfeld, who famously stated: ÂťSweatpants are a sign of defeat. Those who wear sweatpants have lost control over their lives.ÂŤ (Translation by the author) In this age of athleisure and #healthgoals, it is unlikely that Lagerfeld was condemning sweatpants in general. Rather, he was probably alluding to a certain sociological context, and, above all, to certain standards he wanted people to set for themselves. These standards may manifest themselves in fashion choices but go far beyond them. 96
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»Wears the pants!« In this sense, the »SWEATPANTS« represent than more than just a pair of sweatpants – and this is exactly where the quote takes the first step towards becoming a proverb. As GEORG BÜCHMANN tells us, the idiomatic character of a saying increases with its distance from the original meaning of the individual words. Büchmann, who lived from 1822 to 1884, became himself proverbial thanks to his work on sayings and dictums (»winged words« in German btw), a rare kind of occupational hazard. Lagerfeld’s quote is arguably still closer to a dictum than to a proverb, but we will get to these specificities in the next issue. 97
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Our language, as we are aware, is in constant change. Only, to what extent does this affect the particularly traditionconscious species of proverbs?
And then there is also the newly popularised awareness of gender issues and political correctness. As all elements of language, proverbs are being critically examined, but ironically, they who wears the pants is are also the ones showing in the charge, »makes the us in particular clarity how decision« outdated the underlying social order is by now. Who The internet proves that there is »WEARS THE PANTS« is in hunger for innovation. Back in charge, makes the decision – a 2016, the young programme of brilliant example! Not only have the German national broadcaster, pants, once the male garment, Deutschlandfunk Nova, asked long been a natural part of the listeners which proverbs they female wardrobe, we also like thought needed »AN UPDATE« . to use the phrase especially for In May 2018, someone on women. Speaking about history: Twitter initiated a HILARIOUS pants evolved from the 13th and COMPETITION for the best new 14th century onwards, when two creations through combining formerly separate items grew existing ones. The memes scene, together into one. The upper another promising hotbed of one was the »BRUOCH« or future proverbs, is flourishing. »BRUCH«, a sort of early, robust variation of boxer shorts, while the lower part consisted of long stockings, the »HOSAS«.
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Blue Stockings Society Speaking of those: One evening, around the mid-18th century, one single guest appeared in Lady Elizabeth Robinson Montagu’s London Salon wearing ... blue stockings. The other attendees were amazed by this break with tradition (no silk stockings in black!) while outsiders jumped at the opportunity to provide the scene with a catchy name that was meant in a derogatory way but gained a more positive meaning: BLUE STOCKINGS SOCIETY. It referred
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»Too big steps will tear the trousers.« to a group of intellectually active women who were interested in emancipatory issues, although not officially organised like their more radical successors, the suffragettes. Obviously, in the fashion world, wearing something unexpected or provocative is rather common. And this is understandable, since, another Lagerfeld classic, “There’s no escaping fashion. Because even
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when fashion goes out of fashion, it’s fashion again.” So, what can we conclude from all this? Our current approach to proverbs can best be described as creative and playful. But as a Russian proverb warns: »TOO BIG STEPS WILL TEAR THE TROUSERS.« Following Büchmann, we should therefore not be too impatient – we cannot expect something to become a proverb overnight.
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There is no escaping fashion. Because even when fashion goes out of fashion, it's fashion again. - KARL LAGERFELD
In each issue, Elisabeth Stursberg discusses proverbs and sayings related to fashion and their general qualities.
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G - S T R I N G T O L E G W E A R
The history of underwear – or more specifically, underpants – is closely tied to social norms and rules, the dictate of fashion and women’s emancipation. We take a closer look at the past of long legwear through to the present-day G-string.
F R O M
Underpants
H IST O RY
Text: L E A B E C K E R
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When you look at women’s underwear drawers, you can find anything from black lacy bras, colourful sports bras and cotton everyday wear. The variety of colours, shapes and materials is incredible – which is good, because it means that women can pick underwear depending on their mood. And usually, there are just as many versions of underpants as bras: super tiny G-strings, pants and shapewear leave nothing to be desired. But that hasn’t always been the case…
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The first underpants: long and wide Bare Up until the 19th century, women didn’t wear underpants. Starting in 1805, there was »leg wear« for women made from linen or cotton in wide cuts that went down to the knee or even as low as the ankles. Between the legs these pants were open, so important business could be dealt with swiftly even in cold climates.
Around 1840, underpants became a class symbol and were seen as a sign of riches, style and etiquette for ladies of the upper classes. While poorer women were still working the fields freely, ladies were gallivanting through parks in harem-style pants. Another 40 years later, the skirt-underpant or shirtpant became fashionable. These one-pieces were still incredibly complicated to wear and it took 30 more years for the underpants we know today to be developed. Finally, in 1914, women were blessed with the invention of real underpants – of course, older generations despised them at first but then soon discovered the advantage of the underpant.
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Everyday wear to unusual chic from 1900 onwards
During the ’20s and ’30s, fashion was inspired by the art movement ART DECO . Underwear was colourful, elegant and chic and turned from a necessity to a detailed piece of clothing made to seduce. Playful CULOTTES with silk were
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worn by fashionable girls who paired those with soft, lace-lined tops. Pants, cut like swinging skirts, were on trend. The inspiration came from the exotic costumes of dancers like JOSEPHINE BAKER . Interesting fact: »THE GREAT GATSBY« and »ROARING ’20S« looks are still some of the biggest inspirations for underwear designers today.
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After the war is before the war? During WWII , no one was able to focus purely on looks and underwear – something that quickly changed when the war was over. New beginnings were everywhere and trends swept from Paris to Germany, bringing waves of high-waisted, corset-style underpants, corsets and ice cream cone bras.
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After years of fear and austerity, women were supposed to look FEMALE again, shaping and lifting their boobs with pointed bras and slimming tummies with corset pants with matching garters and stockings. No selfrespecting woman in the 1950s would have left the house without stockings. It didn’t matter that this corset-like underwear wasn’t comfortable. Only when elastic fibres like lycra and nylon were introduced did things get more comfortable.
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Free women THE ’60s completely changed
underwear once again, led by revolutionary women that did not want to be matrons and housewives. They left aprons and corset-style underwear behind with midi-skirts and instead clad their bottoms in miniskirts and their boobs in soft, unlined cotton bralettes. Panties became slimmer and didn’t even cover hips anymore. During the hippie era, progressive women left their bras at home entirely – or burned them as a sign of sexual liberation. During the ’80 s, the typical »POWER WOMAN« got fully dressed once again. Aerobic-trends led by JANE FONDA swept the nation and leggings made from synthetic fibres topped underpants and became the symbol of the decade. SISTER-MAG.COM
Wear what you love After the ’80s , underpants started using less fabric. Today, super-high legs from THE ’80s are on trend again but designers are more conscious that some women may not feel comfortable in these styles. Hot pants, boxer shorts, French knickers, Brazilian pants and different styles of string panties complete the offer in shops.
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Which pants for which bottom? Not every kind of underpant looks great on every butt shape. People who would like to consider this should know the following: someone with a V-BODY SHAPE (wide shoulders and slim hips) will often also have a butt in V-shape that is wider at the top than at the bottom. Pants like hipsters, jazz pants or ’50s style high-waisted panties look great in this shape. If the BUTT IS FLATTER , the lines between hips and thighs are on the same level – without curves – so small string shapes as well as panties and hipsters make things appear a little bigger than they actually are. With WIDE HIPS , a slim middle and bigger bottom in the lower third (an upside-down heart shape), wear high-waist slips,
jazz pants and bodies. A PEARSHAPED BUTT looks great in strings, boxer strings, French knickers, shorts and pants that have high legs. If the butt looks like an apple, strings are just as flattering as panties. No matter the shape of your butt, having fun with underwear trends can bring so much joy to women of all sizes and shapes! At the moment, sporty logos and wide elastic bands are very on trend. Playful models have fun decorations, ruffles, bows and cut-outs or even little jewellery pieces above the butt that make you look and feel extra special. All stuff that ladies in the 1900s didn’t dare dream about…
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p u t r sta t h g i spotl
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p u t r a st t h g i l t o sp
FUCKUP NIGHT BERLIN
INDUSTRY
FUCKUPS.DE
E V E N T & C O N S U LTAT I O N HEADQUARTER BERLIN FOUNDERS P R O F. R A L F K E M M E R PAT R I C K W A G N E R FUCKUP NIGHT BERLIN FUCKUP NIGHTS BERLIN
PLEASE INTRODUCE YOUR SELV E S BRIEFLY. W HO ARE YOU AND WHAT DO YOU DO?
For the past five years, Ralf and I have been organising the Fuckup Nights Berlin at two-month intervals. In our management training courses, we advise companies on implementing a failure culture. WHAT IS A FUCKUP NIGHT?
The Fun (short for Fuckup Night) is a public
event (200 to 400 listeners and visitors) where entrepreneurs talk about their economic failures and their consequences. The event always takes place at different locations, from companies, co-working spaces to a catholic church. We always try to establish a close contextual cooperation with our hosts. WHERE DOES THE FORMAT OF THE FUCKUP NIGHT COME FROM? AND HOW LONG DOES IT EXIST IN GERMANY?
The format was invented in Mexico City in 2014. One year later, it came to Europe and Germany.
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p u t r a st t h g i l spot
HOW DID YOU COME TO INTRODUCE THE FUCKUP NIGHT IN GERMANY?
I was invited to be a speaker at the second Fuckup Night ever in Düsseldorf. Spiegel Online wrote an article about my speech, so it was logical to arrange the Fuckup Night in Berlin with friends. WHAT IS THE GOAL OF THIS EVENTS SERIES?
Form the beginning, it was our goal to make the taboo subject of »failure« presentable to the public and to recharge it. Initially, people laughed at the topic and said: »The artists of Prenzlauer Berg make themselves heroes for failing.« But then the tide turned – at latest when we became the lead story in the business section of »Die Zeit« and it was talk that the typical German characteristic of not admitting to mistakes hampers the macroeconomic development, prevents innovation and bans failed people from productive processes through a social stigma. WHICH »FUCKUPS« IS BEING TALKED ABOUT? AND WHO CAN CONTACT YOU WITH A PERSONAL »FUCKUP«?
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Basically, every entrepreneur or employee who failed with a company or a project and wants to talk about it. It’s less about the drop height but more about the reflection of failure. WHO FINDS IT EASIER TO ADMIT »FUCKUPS« – WOMEN OR MEN?
We can see only a few differences and refer to a share of women of about 40%. It’s also great that 60% of our audience is female and also participates actively in the discussions. After five years, we can definitely say that the empathic capacity and the level of reflection that are basic requirements for a new failure culture are female strengths. WHAT DID WORKING WITH FAILED PROJECTS DO TO YOU?
I think it changed our lives as such. We forgive ourselves more. With our role as organisers of the Fuckup Night, we often conduct fascinating conversations with strangers because many people forego the nonsense of »my house, my wife/husband, my car« with us. Instead, we talk from the outset about what really concerns people. By the way, it’s still very hard to talk about our failures in our company. 20 years of
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false school and education system and 20 years of professional life have left deep traces in us. But we keep forcing ourselves. WHAT IS FAILURE FOR YOU?
This question cannot be answered quickly and briefly. For me personally, the biggest failure is not to tackle certain goals or ideas due to the fear of failure or negative reactions. For me, failing with an idea you did everything for and you burned for is a process we learn from.
TELL US ABOUT A »FUCKUP STORY« THAT PA RTICUL A RLY IN SPIRE S YOU.
With more than 120 fuckup stories of very different shapes, it’s always difficult to highlight the most inspiring story. A 23-yearold start-upper failed in an interesting way: He collected 1.6 million € for an app and then became totally paranoid and didn’t want to talk to anybody about is (not even to his girlfriend)
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p u t r a st t h g i l spot
because he was afraid someone could steal his idea. This way, he was so slow that another company developed his idea and launched it. The story was very absurd and one had the feeling that his energetic young entrepreneur was a little bit crazy. He concluded by announcing that he would soon (this was 2016) tackle the banking system and earned a lot of laughs for that. Soon after, he founded the online bank Penta which, together with N26, is now the most successful »new« bank in Germany. IN EUROPE, THE SHARE O F S TA R T- U P S I S C ON SIDER A BLY LOW ER THAT IN NORTH AMERICA . WHAT DO YOU THINK COULD BE THE RE A SON FOR THAT?
First of all, this has to do with the founder mentality – but also with the system, of course: the German insolvency law (from the 19th century), the educational system, Schufa (a credit investigation company), banks and service providers. We only hit
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blockades everywhere. We had speakers who went bankrupt with a company at a young age and now are managing directors of a DAX company but still don’t get a private cell phone contract or a credit card. That’s just absurd. IN WHICH GERMAN CITIES DO »FUCKUP NIGHTS« REGUL A RLY TA K E PL ACE?
Berlin, Düsseldorf, Munich, Frankfurt, Mannheim, Leipzig, Ruhr, Cologne.
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P U T
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T R O U S E R S
AUERBACH M A N U FA K T U R
Y O U R
I N
T H E
S P O T L I G H T !
Accessories for trousers
FA SH IO N
FRÄULEIN M AYA
NET-A-
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Accessoires for trousers
-PORTER
Even if suitable trousers can stand on their own, they can be highlighted even more with the right accessoires! Here is a selection of braces, belts and bags…
SON DE FLOR
ANNADEZET
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ZALANDO
ZARA
Belts SISTER-MAG.COM
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LUISAVIAROMA
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NET-A-PORTER
MAJE
ZARA
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LIEBESKIND
GUSTI LEDER
Belt Bags LIEBESKIND
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ZALANDO
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section 2
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T R O U S E R S W O M E N ' S O F
a little history
FA SH IO N
Although women’s trousers are nowadays widely taken for granted, the female »right to pants« is rather new. International luxury hotels, for instance, still had bans on women wearing trousers during the 1970s. Harrods in London even prohibited female customers in trousers from entering its store until 1970. The history of women’s pants is therefore also a history of emancipation. Our little overview shows you how trousers came to women in a century-long struggle.
Text: BARBARA EICHHAMMER
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»I make fashion women can live in, breathe in, feel comfortable in and look younger in.«
- COCO CHANEL
Women's pants pioneer
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Trousers = a men's world? Starting with the MIDDLE AGES , pants became an integral part of the knight’s war dress. Since the 14th century trousers were reserved as clothing for men. In a nutshell: Pants were generally off-limits for women; in some places, such a BAN was even passed as law. Trousers gradually
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turned into the ideological sign for strength, combat power and masculinity in a patriarchal society. In fact, the notion of women wearing fabric between their legs was seen as scandalous until the 20th century. Despite this patriarchal trousers ban, some bold women have dared
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to wear pants in public over the centuries. Whether to do sports, to travel or to rebel against gender conventions. Just like the sans culottes, who turned to their »PANTALONS« during the French Revolution in 1789. Hence, Paris established a law, which only allowed women’s pants, if urban
authorities approved of it. Woman novelist GEORGE SAND loved to break this law during the 19th century. Curiously, the law was only suspended from the French constitution in 2013.
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Amelia Bloomer From the middle of the 19th century onwards the women’s rights movement has been closely interlinked with the women’s trousers movement. The cry for women’s pants grew gradually stronger; one example being USAmerican women’s rights activist AMELIA BLOOMER . The editor of the feminist magazine THE LILY caused a sensation, when she publicly advocated REFORM DRESS . In 1851, she printed instructions in her magazine on how to make anklelength pants for women, which were subsequently called BLOOMERS . The trousers allowed for greater freedom—both metaphorical and physical—within the public sphere. The general female public, however, reacted quite hesitantly to this new fashion style. Despite some women wearing bloomers to official occasions in the north-east of the US, the big majority did not dare to go out in a bloomers costume in Europe. For a long time, the bloomers were deemed to be too radical. SISTER-MAG.COM
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Paul Poiret
It was only from the 1910s onwards, that the struggle for women’s trousers gained new impetus. Inspired by the contemporary trend of ORIENTALISM , Paris designer PAUL POIRET created a floorlength culotte costume. It resembled Turkish trousers, which were held together just above the ankles. A great resistance formed itself against these so-called »HAREM PANTS« . When Poiret visited a public horserace with models in his trousers, he had to defend his mannequins with a stick against the angry mob.
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The reason: At the time, women in trousers were only known from pornographic illustrations. The representation of legs and crotch were considered to be deeply indecent. In Berlin, it even came to traffic jams when a lady in trousers was walking along the street. 133
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The first World War The First World War finally set an end to the strict trousers ban for women, when many females had to take up gainful work. They were equipped with work clothing that had originally belonged to formerly employed men. Female factory workers, for instance, started wearing overalls; women in public services used a uniform with long trousers in winter. That women had to wear male clothes was, however, not seen as a transgression of gender boundaries. It was rather regarded as a convenient, transitory phenomenon during wartime. As it happens: As soon as the war was over, patriarchal fashion rules returned.
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»Fashion changes, but style endures.« - COCO CHANEL
Women's pants pioneer
Coco Chanel:
the pioneer After the First World War, Coco Chanel pioneered women’s pants. In the 1920s, the French fashion designer created trousers for herself, helping her climb into the rocking gondolas in Venice. The forerunner of her legendary YACHTING PANTS was born; wide trousers for all leisure activities, which also displayed a certain elegance. During a trip to the French coast, Coco Chanel was inspired by men’s clothing for her designs. She used the straight, wide cuts of sailor’s trousers for her yachting pants and introduced accessories like ties for women. Chanel succeeded in what many designers have failed before: To liberate the broad masses of women from strict patriarchal fashion rules.
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She declared war on the corset as well as on volants, lace and frills. One of the first designers who dared to use cotton jersey as material for her clothes, a fabric that had been used before only for men’s underwear. The soft and elastic material was ideal for her comfortable, flowing patterns, and it was available after the war at a favourable price. Thus, Chanel did not only revolutionise the fashion industry but also broke with persisting gender conventions. Emancipation through fashion was her motto. With her black, short bob, the cigarette holder and her jersey trousers, she turned the androgynous garçonne style in Paris into a fashion trend of the Roaring
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Twenties. The term garçonne (French for boyish woman) refers to Victor Margueritte’s novel LA GARÇONNE (1922). The book created a scandal because the female protagonist featured in men’s clothes, wanted to make a career and chose her love life in a self-determined way.
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Yves Saint Laurent: Le Smoking Until women’s pants were fully accepted by society some more decades had to pass. YVES SAINT LAURENT wrote fashion history when designing his »LE SMOKING« . In 1966, he created the first trouser suit for women in the style of a men’s tuxedo. Catherine Deneuve was his first customer in 1967. Famous actresses and starlets like Liza Minelli, Lauren Bacall and Bianca Jagger followed. The latter chose a white version of the pantsuit for her wedding with rock star Mick Jagger. What is more,
Le Smoking also revolutionised modern work clothing. Yves Saint Laurent’s creation paved the way for office-friendly women’s pantsuits worldwide. Its farreaching influence on gender images and break with patriarchal fashion orders was also reflected by fashion photography. For the French Vogue, HELMUT NEWTON presented the ladies’ tuxedo in clean black-and-white images – with androgynous models and slicked back hair.
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»You can be the smartest person in the world in just a t-shirt and jeans, it's up to you.« - KARL LAGERFELD
Karl Lagerfeld During the 1980s Karl Lagerfeld turned women’s trousers into the new It Piece. He brought new glamour to the outdated Parisian fashion house, Chanel, by reinterpreting old Chanel classics like a postmodern pastiche in a
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chic-sexy way. In 1984, Lagerfeld designed the first Chanel Jeans in his first Prêt-à-Porter collection. Moreover, he modernised the classical Chanel costume by creating motorbike clothes, including a stylish helmet. Chanel was the first Haute Couture house worldwide, which consciously incorporated street wear elements into its high fashion. Chanel gave young women a modern, unconventional trousers look, which corresponded to the zeitgeist and modern-day struggle for gender equality. Lagerfeld dressed his muses like Claudia Schiffer, Kate Moss or Kristen Stewart in masculine-sexy outfits, which popularised a contemporary GENDER MIX . In 1997, Kate Moss appeared on the catwalk in a super-sexy brown tweed pantsuit, a bold reinterpretation of the classical Chanel tweed costume. Lagerfeld likewise brought the legendary garçonne look back
to the popular culture of the 21st century. Hollywood actress Diane Kruger was photographed by him in a photo shoot called »DANDY DIANE« for the German Vogue, showing Kruger quite androgynously with Glencheck suit, hat, tie and men’s shirt. Lagerfeld even made casual trousers high fashion material. In 2014, he presented the first Chanel jogging trousers together with Cara Delevingne on the catwalk. The fashion history of female trousers is thus also a feminist history of emancipation. Looking for the traces of women’s pants also shows how gender roles were practiced and defined at specific points of time. Fashion is a cultural practice, which does not only reflect societal circumstances but also generates and reinforces them.
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Text:
T R O U S E R S ?
BRE
T H E W E A R I N G W H O ' S
Breeches parts
T H E T RO USE RS
MIC HAEL NEUBAUER
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WHO’S A WOMAN, WHO’S A MAN? Back in the day, the answer to this question was simply determined by checking people’s biological equipment below the waistline – but in the 1950s doubts started to arise if the answer was really that simple. Western researchers introduced the term »GENDER« because it considers the perceived social and cultural aspect of the topic. 140
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A »GENDER IDENTITY« COULD NOW ENCOMPASS THOSE PEOPLE WHO DON’T FEEL THEY WANT TO COMPLY WITH THE BINARY DEFINITION OF THEIR BIOLOGICALLY MALE OR FEMALE BODIES.
Their perceived social gender is not the same as their private parts. Today, gender studies are a huge field of research, and different findings and controversial points of view are often being discussed in heated exchanges. These strict boundaries of gender and sexes, also present in the law, were handled quite differently by poets, directors and theatre companies during the 19th and 20th centuries. They often put women in trousers and gave them male roles – although we don’t always know if it was due to a lack of male actors, their abilities, or women’s praised »MEZZO SOPRANIC« voices. SISTER-MAG.COM
breeches – A WELL-KNOWN TERM IN THE WORLD OF THEATRE AND DANCE!
Shakespeare was not inclined to women’s parts. He mostly wrote for all-male groups that also played women. And sometimes the men that dressed up as women had to play women that dressed up as men. The visibly intended gender of the role was not the same as that of the actor – something many people didn’t even bat an eyelash about. For this reason, women appearing
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parts on the stage as men was often seen as additional comedy, a fun aspect that was hilarious because real-life women wearing trousers were unimaginable. In her essay about acting groups led by women (like »DIE NEUBERIN« 1697 - 1760) during the early phase of COMMEDIA DELL’ARTE , Kristina Hecker writes: »The admiration for the intellectual brilliance of these actresses who,
according to contemporaries, were no less great than the best speakers, thinkers and poets of their time, has an important aspect: these women were not only similarly eloquent as their male counterparts – their secret also was that they were able to play both men and women at the same time.«
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THE VOICES OF WOMEN (AND YOUNG BOYS), SITUATED BETWEEN ALTO (DEEP) AND SOPRANO (HIGH) AT THE LEVEL OF MEZZO SOPRANO, WERE VERY WELL SUITED FOR BREECHES PARTS. THE YOUTHFUL RICHNESS LED MANY COMPOSERS TO GIVING PARTS WITH THOSE PITCHES TO WOMEN. SISTER-MAG.COM
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These
include Händel’s RADAMISTO in the play of the same name (1720), Mozart’s CHERUBINO in THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO (1786), Rossini’s TANCREDI in the title role (1813) and Offenbach’s NICKLAUSSE in THE TALES OF HOFFMANN (1881) as well as Strauss’s OCTAVIAN in DER ROSENKAVALIER (1911) or the COMPOSER in Strauss’s ARIADNE AUF NAXOS (1912). Even operettas featured typical and well-known »BREECHES PARTS« . Johann Strauss wrote the part of PRINCE ORLOFSKY in THE FLEDERMAUS FOR A WOMAN’S VOICE (1874) and DIE SCHÖNE GALATHÉE (The Beautiful Galatea)
in mezzo soprano. In today’s plays, breeches parts are crucial as well. Whether it’s Hamlet or as Karl in SCHILLER’S RÄUBER , women often take on male parts. Theatre scholars split these performances into three different kinds: when women play men’s parts from the beginning to end (real breeches part); women who display male ways of behaviour, speaking and dressing (false breeches part); and the ones who dress up as men to appear male during the play. As you can see, the stage is no stranger to switching up genders and using them for its own purpose – without fights and controversy.
of Suppé sings GANYMED (1865) 145
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S H O W T I M E S E R I E S B I L L I O N S , A N A N D R O G Y N O U S F I N A N C E W H I Z S H A K E S U P A B O Y S C L U B
In »Billions«, Taylor Mason, played by Asia Kate Dillon and who identifies as nonbinary, introduces a compelling study of gender performance to a show about finance and the law. And with what an entrance:
»Hello, my name is Taylor. My pronouns are they, theirs and them.«
I N
T H E
t h e y, t h e i r s & t h e m
GE N DE R N E UT RA L IT Y
They, them Text: CHRISTIAN NÄTHLER
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theirs
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BILLIONS
Reading the synopsis for the Showtime series »Billions«, I thought to myself, haven’t I seen this story before? Like a million times? The two protagonists are a cunning finance executive and sharky lawyer. Corporate corruption, power politics, weasels of Wall Street. Leonardo DiCaprio, playing Jordan Belfort, had already taken me on that ride. Owing, however, to a particularly eventless winter during which I exhausted much of the Netflix catalogue, I started watching anyway. »Billions« is a twisty, white-collar, cat and mouse drama. The mouse is Robert »Bobby« Axelrod, a hedge fund manager played by Damian Lewis. The cat is the US Attorney Chuck Rhoades, played by Paul Giamatti, who’s hell bent on indicting Axelrod for insider trading. Two things are fragile in finance: the market and masculinity. We get a sense of the latter when Wendy, Axelrod’s performance coach who also happens to be Rhoades’s wife, flaunting a bottle of Viagra,
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»where better to tweak b r o c u lt u r e t h a n f r o m i n s i d e the locker room?«
talks to a crowd of traders about performance (double entendre intended). »When the time comes, when you need to pull the trigger on the buy or sell order, you better be hard as a rock and ready to go«, she declares. This is a man’s world. Machismo matters. There was no need to challenge gender performance in a show about securities trading, but »Billions« did it anyway. In the first episode of season two, we’re introduced to a character whose mere existence makes the dynamic between gendered behaviour and power an intriguing subtheme. »Hello, my name is Taylor. My pronouns are they, theirs, and them.«
Taylor Mason is played by Asia Kate Dillon, who, like her character, identifies as nonbinary. Alison Willmore, writing for Buzzfeed, called the role a »milestone of representation.« A show like Billions is an unlikely vector for advancing androgynous representation, but that’s precisely why it works. It would have been too jarring for a woman to disrupt the show’s gender dynamics, just as it would have been implausible for a man to do so by showing vulnerability on the trading floor. It is Taylor’s
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Asia Kate Dillon placid charisma and not the fact of their gender identity that exposes the insecurities of brash masculinity. As the television critic Emily Nussbaum writes in The New Yorker, »where better to tweak bro culture than from inside the locker room?«
For Dillon, it was crucial that Mason not be employed as a gimmick. »I would have never wanted to play Taylor if it had been a one-off episode and in that episode it would have been all about their gender identity,« said Dillon, who wept when they first read the script.
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»If it hadn't been a fully fleshed-out character, I wouldn’t have wanted to do it, because that representation is old hat, frankly, and not interesting.«
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As i a Kate D i l lo n
»[i've received] messages from people who said my character changed their hearts and minds,« dillon said. » i f e e l l i k e t h at ' s a r t a c t u a l ly c h a n g i n g c u lt u r e . . . t h at i s w h y i t h i n k a r t i s s o powerful.«
Nonbinary characters are typically represented in two ways: cartoon or, worse, caricature. »All«, the androgynous model played by Benedict Cumberbatch in Zoolander 2, comes to mind as a particularly grotesque portrayal. »You either get a one-dimensional trans, nonbinary or gender nonconforming character, and that’s what the story is about it — and it’s usually tragic,« Dillon told NBC News. »Or you get the other end, where because a person is trans, nonbinary or gendernonconforming, they have to be perfect and angelic so that we can make sure to say, »Oh, they’re not scary, they can be good people too.«
Not since David Bowie came out as Ziggy Stardust or Tilda Swinton played Orlando in the film adaptation of Virginia Woolf’s eponymous novel has androgyny been given gravity or nuance in front of a mainstream audience. No person is duty-bound to lead the struggle, though Dillon is happy to wear the proverbial pants. »[I’ve received] messages from people who said my character changed their hearts and minds,« Dillon said. »I feel like that’s art actually changing culture ... that is why I think art is so powerful.«
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E V E R Y O N E ! F O R S E L F - C A R E
»Genderless Beauty«
A DE E P T RE N D
SELF - CARE FOR EVERYONE! Gender-neutral beauty products are supposed to make cosmetics more practical, cheaper and sustainable. Read everything about this new trend for your bathroom and vanity case.
TEXT: LEA B ECKER SISTER-MAG.COM
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Genderless
BEAUTY
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MAN, WOMAN, THIRD GENDER? Lotions and potions accept who you truly are or want to be. Fashion and beauty are opening up and offering new possibilities to everyone. Skirts for guys and pantsuits for girls are supposed to be the new normal – and the beauty industry is following suit with a trend named »GENDERLESS BEAUTY« .
This shifts away from the previously used term unisex that was still based around the two biological sexes male and female. GENDERLESS is now the new UNISEX 2.0 and includes all other definitions of gender. Societally, we think this is a wonderful step in the right direction and are happy to take the trend to our bathrooms.
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HIGH FIVE!
Hand lotion with organic aloe vera extract by Alkmene makes normal and dry skin feel velvety smooth. CA. 4 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
(GENDER) N EUTRAL
SIMPLE
Fragrance
Design
What makes »GENDERLESS BEAUTY« so special? One of the main differences is the fragrances used in hair and body care. Most gender-neutral products are made without fragrance or contain scents that aren’t connected to binary ideas of gender such as lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, verbena, peppermint, hemp and lavender. These scents are more subtle and, more so than vanilla, strawberry, caramel and rose or tobacco, leather, musk and pine, have not been branded with the connotations of male or female.
Another difference can be found in the design of the products. While women’s products are traditionally pink, purple, white and light, packaging aimed to please men is often held in black, grey, green, blue or red tones. »GENDERLESS BEAUTY« tries to step away from this colour scheme by using non-colours like white, grey, black and brown and keeping the design minimalist and Scandinavian.
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HAVE A BREW... In your bathroom. The body peeling with coffee by Alverde carefully exfoliates dead skin and kick-starts micro-circulation. CA. 3 EURO, EXCLUSIVELY AT DM
YOURS , MINE ,
ours The components used in genderneutral skincare are well-loved classics: HYALURONIC ACID keeps the skin moist and helps it retain this moisture. ALOE VERA is perfect to cool down your skin after sunbathing. OLIVE OIL smoothes dry and mature skin while SHEA BUTTER provides the necessary fatty acids. ALGAE EXTRACT is full of sea minerals that fill lines and wrinkles. VITAMIN C has a light peeling effect and returns glow to ashy complexions. GREEN TEA extract helps with puffy morning eyes and SALICYLIC ACID helps with healing spots. A new addition to the 2020 INCHI-list of skin and
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hair care is MANUKA HONEY from New Zealand. The honey has anti-inflammatory properties for impure skin while delivering moisture and strengthening the natural barrier of the skin – a true all-rounder for anyone! Another hyped product is HEMP OIL with the component CANNABIDIOL : Another allrounder, this oil helps balance irritated skin after shaving and protects from potentially damaging influences like UVlight, pollution and cold.
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NO WRINKLES This eye cream with botanical hyaluronic acid extracted from the tremella mushroom by natural cosmetics brand Annemarie Börlind smoothes wrinkles considerably. . CA. 25 EURO, AT WWW.BOERLIND.DE
BLING , BLING Easy to handle: eye pads with moisturising ingredients by Babor.
SHARING FOR
less waste
CA. 25 EURO,
Another benefit of
ÜBER BABOR.DE
»GENDERLESS BEAUTY« is the
reduced waste: if two people living together can use the same shaving foam, eye cream and shampoo, less waste is produced. Smaller labels increasingly bet on gender-neutral products to adhere to the PHILOSOPHY OF AVOIDING WASTE (#zerowaste, #lesswaste). Using products together saves both space and money! If you’re suffering from specific skin problems, you may still need a few products just for yourself – but these are the ones you can always share…
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SO FRESH The Charlotte Meentzen shower gel with hyaluronic acid and malachite extract plumps up the skin. CA. 4 EURO, AT MEENTZEN.DE
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SEEING BL ACK? No! This Iatitai facial soap with bamboo-charcoal deep cleanses the skin and removes bacteria and sebum. Great for oily skin. CA. 13 EURO, AT WWW.IATITAI.DE
HEMP SKIN The light lotion by bio:vegané can be used in the morning and evening to protect all skin types from stress triggered by environmental influences and lack of moisture. The product optimises the skin’s moisture balance and calms irritated areas. CA. 25 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
LESS STRESS Pamper yourself with some »Me time« and the mint-rosemary shower gel by Kneipp. CA. 4 EURO, IN DROGERIEN
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KISS ME , PLEASE Dry and chapped lips? This lip peeling by Labello comes in a practical stickshape and removes dead skin so you can moisturise with a balm. CA. 3 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
BODYLICIOUS Macadamia- and sunflower oil, rosemary and calendula extract make this cooling body lotion by Rausch so special. . CA. 13 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
HAIR REMOVAL Calms skin after shaving: foam by LR Aloe Via with lots of aloe vera extract. CA. 10 EURO, AT AMAZON.DE
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MASKED BALL Quick, easy, effective: hydrating sheet mask with aloe vera by Schaebens, CA. 2 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
ANTITRANSPIRANT Sharing deodorant? These wipes are easy to use and hygienic. BY REXONA, CA. 2 EURO, IN DRUGSTORES
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HAIRY Hair care for everyone: hyaluronic shampoo for moisture and reduced breakage by ahuhu. CA. 18 EURO, AT ASAMBEAUTY.COM
PSSST, PSSST The gender-neutral scent »Bergamot« by New York brand Marke Malin+Goetz with bergamot, paprika, grapefruit, ginger, lily of the valley, cardamom and different woody scents. CA. 85 EURO, AT NICHE-BEAUTY.COM
UNISEX(Y) For everyone: The perfume »Copper« by Comme des garcons with galbanum, peppercorn, ginger oil, synthetic amber, myrrh and vanilla smells of tarmac on a hot summer’s day. CA. 100 EURO AT AUSLIEBEZUMDUFT.DE
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B O R E D O M A G A I N S T
the sistermag-online guide
O N L IN E A DVE N T URE S!
#STAYHOME In times of #STAYTHEFUCKHOME and #FLATTENTHECURVE it has suddenly become an essential skill to combat listlessness, boredom and creative blocks within your own home. Taking a trip, chatting with friends or eating cake at your favourite cafÊ are no longer possible. That’s why our sisterMAG editors wanted to put together an online guide that may not be a substitute for real-life fun but can definitely help pass the time and make life at home just a little more exciting!
Text & So urci n g : C A R O L I N K R A L A P P
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Next to classics like Netflix-watching, reading a good book or listening to records, we would like to share interesting portals and platforms that you may not have heard of before. .
They make sofa-based virtual trips and visits to museums or concerts possible! 163
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travelling and Tourism 360° TOUR THROUGH GERMANY’S CAPITAL The sisterMAG crew, although working from home at the moment, is based in Berlin. If you’ve always wanted to see the city’s coolest sights, you can do so with a 360° view online – without masses of tourists. The Brandenburg Gate, Museumsinsel and the Berliner Dom are all there!
IN THE MOOD FOR A CITY TRIP? THIS WAY
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GALA 360 – TOURISM TOURS AND VIRTUAL TRAVELLING The portal Gala 360 is well worth a visit. You can take countless virtual trips and tourism tours.
EUROPE, ASIA AND THE US ARE ALL ON THE LIST – STROLL THROUGH THE STREETS AND EXPLORE
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cultural offerings MUSEUM VISITS The »Arts & Culture« tool by Google offers a wide variety of online art collections that make a museum visit on your laptop possible. They have the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Van CLICK HERE Gogh Museum FOR AN in Amsterdam OVERVIEW and the Uffizi in Florence (just to mention a few)!
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CONCERTS Not an insider-tip anymore but still worth mentioning: ARTE CONCERT . A great platform to listen to the live appearances of different artists. Independently from bigger platforms, many artists and bands now do live sessions on their social media channels (sometimes collaborating with event locations).
CLICK HERE TO GET TO THE ARTE CONCERT MEDIATHEK
This is definitely worth keeping in mind so you can keep an eye out for your favourite acts.
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THEATRE AND OPERA
FIND MORE INFORMATION ON THE SCHEDULE
Many theatres and operas, like the METROPOLITAN OPERA IN NEW YORK , are livestreaming daily performances of famous operas like Verdi’s »MACBETH« or Wagner’s »TRISTAN AND ISOLDE« .
THE NATIONAL THEATRE IN LONDON The National Theatre in London is currently uploading a full-length performance to their YouTube channel every Thursday. Popular comedian James Corden, known for his Carpool Karaoke with celebrities, is one of the performers. ALL PLAYS AND TRAILERS CAN BE FOUND HERE
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nightlife CLUB VISITS WITH »UNITED WE STREAM« »United We Stream« allows you to go to a club without queueing! Every day, different clubs in Berlin (and beyond) invite old and new favourite DJs and DJanes which you can listen to in your living room or dance along with a glass of wine or beer in your hand. All past streams are available on ARTE Concert. A great initiative with the goal to support Berlin’s worldfamous nightlife.
CLICK HERE FOR DAILY UPDATES
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VIRTUAL HOUSEPARTIES WITH FRIENDS One of the most popular apps currently used to gather several friends is called »HOUSEPARTY« . It’s free and allowa people to meet up in a virutal room, while also offering four mini-games to make gatherings more fun. A great concept! Sadly, the data protection regulations of the app are more than questionable: it sells your information to third parties and constantly accesses your phone as well as other accounts like Facebook – you’ll have to decide for yourself if it’s still worth the fun or maybe not.
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DOWNLOAD THE APP FOR FREE AND GET STARTED
If you want to answer quizzes with friends, »QUIZUP« is great fun. It has real-time quizzes and allows you to connect to friends and new people. The game is lots of fun, even without an inbuilt video chat! If that’s not enough, take a look at the »JACKPOT PARTY PACKS« : MORE INFORMATION Up to 8 people ABOUT THE can compete FUN GAMES in games like Drawful, Quiplash or Fibbage. And finally, well-known tools like SKYPE or FACETIME (for iPhone users) are easily turned into a virtual house party with drinks and games. ;)
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R E C O M M E N D A T I O N S
sisterMAG book column
W H AT YO U SH O UL D RE A D T O DAY
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Text: MARTINA KLARIC
Bo o k C o l u m n In these difficult times of COVID 19, we see even more the importance of reading. For, it enables us to forget everything around us for some time and dive into another world – be it with a thrilling novel, a classic, or a travel report. All the more, we are pleased that Martina Klaric picked out four books for her new book column. They shed light on the different aspects of our issue’s focus and provide us with some very welcome distraction at home.
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»NIGHT SKY WITH EXIT WOUNDS«
»I didn’t know the cost / of entering a song – was to lose / your way back. / So I entered. So I lost. /I lost everything, my eyes / wide opened.« Nobody writes so dreamy and tragic in one breath like
the
Vietnamese-American
author Ocean Vuong. Recently, his poetry collection Night Sky
with Exit Wounds was published in a German translation. And now, at the latest, we know: Vuong is currently writing literary history. Because it’s not often that an author is able to build words and sentences in a way that makes them appear entirely new – as if they were born into the world at this very moment. Instead of repeating phrases, Vuong relies on exceptionality. Instead of nesting, you read touching poetry with utter clarity. His lyric is full of thoughts of the own past, especially of the mental violence he experienced as a homosexual immigrant. What’s outstanding about it: Vuong doesn’t write himself into a rage for a single line. His work is far from putting self-pity or anger into language. It rather proposes the personal processing of a life through art. Wow! »Night Sky with Exit Wounds« by Ocean Vuong, published in April 2016 by Copper Canyon Press (89 pages), ISBN: 9781556594953, $16,00 [US]
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»EXPECTATION« With Expectation, the Manchesterborn author Anna Hope created an
important
novel
about
unfulfilled dreams. No wonder, as Manchester has long been known for its excellent literary scene. Hope’s novel starts on an early morning in mid-May when
three girlfriends meet and whose lives couldn’t be more different. Then, in their mid-thirties, they find out: Something is missing for them. While Hannah, despite a fulfilled relationship, longs for a child and Cate, even though she has a child, has the feeling of gradually losing her own self, Lisa is facing the wreckage of a failed relationship and threatens to shatter her dream. How can this be? Do we expect too much or the wrong things from life? Why are dreams and reality never compatible? And most of all: What can we do to change this? Anna Hope intersperses thoughts like these with care and the utmost vigour. In doing so, she takes up acute questions of the present and addresses what many of us think: Why do I stand here even though I wanted to be there? Touching, honest and approachable! »Expectation« by Anna Hope, published in July 2019 by Doubleday (336 pages), ISBN: 9781784162801, $8,99 [US]
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»RESURRECTION« is the power of nature as closely intertwined with the concept of resurrection as it is here. The initial scene resembles a biblical announcement scene from the bible whose wise undertone rings out from every line. At the same time, we read the heart-breaking love story of the prince Nekhlyudov and Katyusha Maslova who is of poor backgrounds and who the prince seduced at a young age. Years later, he meets her again on the docks. She, who now is a prostitute, is accused of poison The
first
Tolstoy’s
sentences
of
Resurrection
Leo (first
published in 1899) belong to the most beautiful ones in world literature. They describe the scene of a change of season, the
murder. Her fate hits Nekhlyudov deep in his heart. He realises that he alone is to blame for her life’s tragic turn. Does the prince save her? But more importantly: Will Katyusha let herself be saved? A
transition from winter to spring,
masterpiece of literature!
from old to new. Nowhere else
A must-read! »Resurrection« by Leo Tolstoy, new German translation published on October 1st 2000 by Penguin Books (520 pages), ISBN: 9780140424638, $18,00 [US] Paperback edition
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»HOW TO FAIL«
»One of my earliest memories is of failure,« Elizabeth Day writes and on the subsequent pages, she describes in detail how it feels to disappoint ones’ big sister as a three-year-old: Formative, actually! With this, she points out that moments of failure are part of our life from
the beginning. No matter whether it’s the separation from the longterm partner, the unexpected end of the career or the emotional disruption: Crises are there to be overcome. And above all: They are no individual failure. Instead, they can be understood as grounding moments of true inner strength. With How to Fail: Everything I’ve Ever Learned From Things Going Wrong, Elizabeth Day manages to tell about her life crises in a sensitive and motivating way. Her stories appear authentic and are a real »positivity boost«! Lightweight and inspiring – a wonderful read for in between.
»How to fail: : Everything I’ve Ever Learned From Things Going Wrong« by Elizabeth Day, published in April 2019 by HarperCollins Publishers (352 pages), ISBN: 9780008327354, £9,99 [UK] Paperback edition
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PARTNER
2020
ALEX
APR
Vermarktung
s i st e rMAG is publis he d
MARKETING & ADMIN
eve r y 1 , 5 month! READ NOW
NEXT ISSUE is published in June 2020
TONI Marketing & Finance
OVERALL TOPIC »DRESSES«
CAROLIN Content Distribution
KEZIA Administration
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OPERATIONS
THEA Chief Editor & Design
SOPHIA Content Management
THERESA Content Management
THE
TROUSERS
CREATION
CHRISTINA
EVI
Content Management
Fashion
MEDEA Content Management
LISA Social Media
MARIE Design & Kreation
ILARIA Design
LALE Video & Design
GABI Foto & Design
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IMPRINT
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