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EDITORIAL
sist e rMAG 5 4
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d e a r s i s t e r m ag r eaders, As always, I’m sitting in my bed on one of the days just before the launch of our new issue writing the editorial. It probably has to be that way so I can revisit the thoughts and events that accompanied the issue.
Our cover inspired by a Gerhard Richter painting was created in the Grassi Museum Leipzig. The museum is also content partner of the issue, since it opens a very special exhibition for on November 21 for which we are a media partner. »History in Fashion« illuminates 1,500 years of embroidery in fashion. We were not only allowed to take a first look at the extraordinary exhibition, but also shoot our cover (with our designer Marie as cover model) in the wonderful premises of the Grassi Museum.
sisterMAG 54 definitely was up to a difficult and slow start as the entire sisterMAG team was distracted by various projects and not in the office for the past 2 months. And not only the last 2 months were so intense, but the whole year 2019! So it was time to stop and cut some old braids. This was done successfully with a clean-up weekend with Mick and Evi – at the end of which stood three trips to the recycling centre, a regained sisterMAGOffice room and plenty of space for inspiration. And Voila - afterwards sisterMAG 54 took off and we are happy to present you the issue for the pre-Christmas season!
Embroidery is then also a big focus of the issue. We researched embroidery artists from all over the world and interviewed them about inspiration, favorite yarns and tips for beginners. We especially like the DIY examples they made available to us and that may inspire you to try »painting with threads« for yourself.
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A nice embroidery project might also be a great Christmas gift - yes, it's almost this time of the year again. In just over a month it’s Christmas. In order to take away the stress of all the tasks in the run-up to Christmas, we have put together various Christmas checklists. There are also five gift guides inspired by past sisterMAG 2019 issues that will hopefully make your gift shopping a little easier. And as the days of pre-Christmas food invitations begin now, you'll find a whole feature of delicious dinner recipes - created together with our partner Californian Walnuts in the sisterMAG kitchen. We were allowed to taste all the dishes and can say »really delicious«! We wish you a very happy and peaceful preChristmas season. We look forward to seeing some of you in Leipzig at the embroidery workshop in the Grassi Museum in person. Until the next sisterMAG 55 issue,
your Toni & the sisterMAG Team
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TABLE OF CONTENT
S I S T E R M A G # 5 4
PAGE 116 – THE YEAR 1965
03 08 10
186 14
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS OF THE ISSUE DOWNLOAD-OVERVIEW IMPRINT
FESTIVE FIVE GIFT GUIDES For your holiday shopping
26
FESTIVE 5 MINUTES HAIRSTYLES
38
A LITTLE CULTURAL HISTORY OF
With Toni & Thea
SUPPER The culture of eating at night
PAGE 60 – INVITATION TO GAME NIGHT
48
CALIFORNIAN WALNUTS 4 recipes with the most delicious walnuts
60
INVITATION TO GAME NIGHT Time to Socialise. Time for Friends ... and snack boards!
76
E MBRO IDE RE D PREPARATIONS FOR THE FESTIVE SEASON Checklists
82 PAGE 96– DIY EMBROIDERY FEATURE
FASHION EDITORIAL At the Grassi Museum
PAGE 82 – FASHION EDITORIAL PAGE 48 – CALIFORNIAN WALNUTS
88
INTERVIEWS WITH GRASSI MUSEUM
96
DIY EMBROIDERY FEATURE
116
Exhibition »History in Fashion«
With the most talented instagrammers
BL URRE D THE YEAR 1965 When Gerhard Richter painted »Woman walking down the stairs«
122
FAMOUS STAIRS
136
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
144
GERHARD RICHTER
154
DAGUERREOTYPE
162
5 WAYS TO ADD AN ANALOG TOUCH
Around the world
A cultural history of the staircase
»The Picasso of the 21st century«
The art of shooting on glass
TO YOUR IMAGES A hands-on guide from a photographer
172
DESK TO SUCCESS
178
AFTER THE HAPPY END
With Master Blender Angela D'Orazio
A real-life look behind the scenes of cross-cultural couples
CONTRIBUTORS Text Robert Eberhardt roberteberhardt.com
proof
translation
Bianca Demsa graceandholmes.com
Bianca Demsa graceandholmes.com
Amie McCracken amiemccracken.com
Barbara Eichhammer the-little-wedding-corner.de
Alexander Kords kords.net
Judith Remke intext-bremen.de
Ira Häussler
Christian Näthler @iamvolta
sisterMAG Team
Barbara Eichhammer the-little-wedding-corner.de
Alexander Kords kords.net Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
Cris Santos @csantosphoto Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees sisterMAG Team
FOOD Claudia Gödke claudiagoedke.com Lukas Grossmann lukasgrossmann.de Nicky Walsh nickywalsh.eu Nadine Page @nadinepage1
illustration More Parsley @moreparsley
photo & Video Grassi Museum fĂźr Angewandte Kunst grassimak.de
Hair & Makeup Katharina Handel @katharina_handel
Cris Santos @csantosphoto Anja Schlichenmaier anijaschlichenmaier.com sisterMAG Team
THE COVER PHOTOS Cris Santos
MODEL Marie Darme
OUTFIT MODEL Marie Darme @casa_malo
Styling Evi Neubauer @neu1bauer
Evi Neubauer
HAIR & MAKE-UP Katharina Handel
PARTNERS O F T H E I S S UE You can recognize our partner features through the logo at the top of the page. We thank our partners California Walnuts & Grassi Museum, very cordially, because without them this issue would not be possible!
AVOCADO-PINEAPPLE SPREAD
BANANANUT-BAKE
WALNUT-LEMONPASTA
PATTERN 54-1
DIY-GIFT BOX
DIY-HAIR CLIP
ALSACIAN TARTE FLAMBÉE
VIDEOS
DOWNLOADS
MULTIMEDIA
DIY-HAIR CLIP
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S T AY I N T O U C H !
FOLGT UNS!
Follow along our stories and daily news from the sisterMAG office easily on Instagram! You can find magazine content, behind-the-scenes and snapshots of our contributors. And of course, prize draws, invitations and other exclusive activities can be found on @SISTER_MAG.
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F O R
Y O U R
H O L I D A Y
S H O P P I N G
five gift guides
IN SPIRAT IO N CH RIST MA S
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sisterMAG N°52 – Bauhaus We loved our issue for the 100-yearanniversary of the Design School! You do not have to look far for Bauhaus inspired gift ideas: everything geometric like the marble charging pad or our DIY earrings that fit the theme perfectly. SISTER-MAG.COM
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2. 1. 1.
Dry Gin from Humboldt
2.
Pouch shaped like a phone @solago.shop
3.
Charging pad for your phone from @powrco
4. DIY Bauhaus inspired hair clips 5.
3.
Illustrations from Jessica Yolanda Kaye
5.
4.
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sisterMAG N°51 – In The Car For our August issue we went on a fun late-summer trip. Our gift ideas revolve around travel inspiration and gadgets on the go – and of course we found everything in bright colours because we love pop art! SISTER-MAG.COM
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2. 1. 1.
Zero Waste Accessoires from sisterMAG N°51
2.
Plan a weekend trip and give a gift certificate
3.
The new watch from Fossil
4. The secret gem of travel magazines: »The Fernweh« 5.
3.
A little art piece of its own: Pfeffer & Frost Gingerbread
5.
4.
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sisterMAG N°48 – Girl with The Pearl Earring Everything vintage and golden is right for this theme of »Girl with The Pearl Earring«. We have put together cute gifts from lovely pottery to great DIY sets for knitting. SISTER-MAG.COM
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2. 1.
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Golden Lamp from Zara Home
2.
Beautiful pottery with gold rim from Motel a Miio
3.
Hairstyle inspiration and scarves from sM48
4. Knitting Sets from We are Knitters
3.
5.
Super comfy loafers from Monaco Duck
5.
4.
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sisterMAG N°47 – Vase with flowers Flowery and colourful – that's how we would describe our issue 47 with a giant bouquet on the cover. The christmas ornaments from »The House that Lars Built« or flower seeds from »Jora Dahl« are the perfect gift ideas inspired by this topic. SISTER-MAG.COM
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2. 1.
3.
1.
Shiseido Makeup ColorGel LipBalms
2.
Yearly subscription for Headspace Meditation App
3.
Christmas Ornaments from House that Lars Built Shop
4. Colourful rings from @objektsstore 5.
Seeds from Jora Dahl
5.
4.
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sisterMAG N°45 – Sans Titre Creatively abstract we started into the year with our February issue. Which is why we recommend creating your own stamps – with potatoes or with an online shop ;)). You can embellish nearly everything using them: skirts, wrapping paper or books! SISTER-MAG.COM
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2. 1.
3.
1.
IT Girl Christmas Makeup Palette
2.
iPhone Cases from @madame__karma
3.
Individual stamps, made by stempel-fabrik.de
4. Our cover skirt with full instructions to make yourself 5.
sisterMAG DIY Soaps
5.
4.
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After our special hair feature in may we received many messages and questions for curly and short hair. Right on time for the holiday season, we created super fast -5 minutes hairstyles. A beautiful hair accessory is mostly enough to achieve the hairstyle.
Hair & Make-up: KATHARINA HANDEL Photos: JACLYN LOCKE Models THEA NEUBAUER TONI SUTTER
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More is ... more! This is the season for the hair to shine. The curls are held back by many hair clips (all from H&M) and the sticked into a braid. If you have straight hair, you could make some beach waves with a curling iron, it makes the hairstyle even prettier. SISTER-MAG.COM
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1. Rhinestone Teardrop Earrings, Zara
6. Hairclips, Zara
5.
2. Knit beanie, H&M
7. Bejewelled wool beret, Zara
3. Headband with strass, H&M
8. Square mini faux pearl earrings, Zara
4. Rhinestone hair clips, Zara
9. Hair clips, H&M
5. Headband with pearls, Zara
9. 7.
6.
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Super easy way to upgrade the hat (and at the same time to realise the Marc Jacob's runway trend): just put some feathers into the back of the hat.
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Short hair also offers the opportunity to start in the holidays with beautiful accessories: it glitters with hair bands or earrings (models from ZARA) and the look becomes really wintery with a wool beanie in white (H&M).
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The DIY version of the hairband: on @sister_mag you can find the IG TV video for the hairband in the next weeks. It is made of a simple hairband and foam.
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supper
A L IT T L E CULT URA L H IST O RY O F
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Text : Barbara Ei c h h am m e r Illu st rat i on : More Parsley
Bu t t er a br e a d, a dd s o m e cheese or ham on t o p a n d the m o s t w e l l - known l i ght m eal i s r ea d y to s e r v e . O u r c o l d supper tr adi ti on i n G er m a n y ha d i t s o r i g i n s i n the m edi ev al b u t t er e d br e a d s na c k but i s a r el ati vel y n ew in v e n ti o n a s a m a i n c our se. Our l i ttl e cu lt u r a l h i s to r y w i l l s how you, how the l i ght s u p p er em e r g e d a s a tr a di ti on and what the in d us t r i a l i s a t i o n h a s to do wi th i t.
e r u t l u c Eating
fr o m t h e Mi ddl e A g e s to t he ear l y m oder n age It was common practice in ancient Rome to eat two meals per day, with the evening meal (in Latin ÂťCENAÂŤ ) consisting of a warm porridge with vegetables. During the MIDDLE AGES , two meals were on the menu in most
European regions: one in the morning and one in the evening, mostly with warm oats. Medieval eating culture, however, also mirrored class distinctions: Fresh food was seen as a status symbol par excellence.
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The d e er tt bu bread
The European elite enjoyed eating large amounts of fresh meat, even in winter, when the poorer classes only had pickled or dried meat. From the 14TH CENTURY onwards, the BUTTERED BREAD - a popular GERMAN SPECIALTY until today - came into being, when trade flourished in the hanseatic towns in the North of Germany. Thus, rye flour for sour dough, cream for butter and salt from Northern Europe were transported to Germany. Merchants also brought new preservation methods,
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so that butter could be cured and manufactured in bigger numbers. Whereas up to this date only aristocrats could afford to eat bread, those new trade goods now also enabled peasants and workers to eat their buttered bread as a cold snack. It still took some centuries, however, until bread and butter developed from a light snack to a MAIN MEAL . For in the early modern age, the warm supper with several courses was still the main meal of the day.
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Supper
fr o m the 2 0 t h c e n tur y onwar ds Eating warm in the evenings was quite customary until the 20th CENTURY . It was only in the wake of industrialisation
that our eating culture changed. Between the 1920s and 1950s the COLD SUPPER , as we know it today as a light snack, came into being. New working conditions were the reasons for this change: Due to the RISE OF FACTORIES , more and more staff restaurants emerged, where workers could eat warm meals for lunch. Traditional gender roles also altered substantially with the two world wars, which resulted in new eating conventions. After the Second World War, the number of working women rose steadily.
By working late – just like their husbands – they no longer had the time to cook warm, elaborate meals in the evenings. At the same time, the increasing use of machines also meant, that the physical workload and thus caloric requirements decreased for the workers. Two big warm meals per day were no longer necessary. Cold supper became the norm and turned into a loved tradition at our dinner tables.
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Supper
D i f f e r e nt f o rm s of
The most famous supper of cultural history is probably the Last Supper, which Jesus celebrated with his twelve apostles the night before his death. Our three examples show you some dif ferent forms of evening meals we love to enjoy these days.
F AM I L Y D IN N E R The most well-known dinner is probably the FAMILY DINNER , with food being served directly on the table on platters and in bowls. Cultural studies have shown that this is probably the most DEMOCRATIC MEAL – also in terms of gender roles. For no one has to cook, but each family member can create its own light
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snack with the ingredients on the table. Such family style dinners are also getting more and more popular with weddings and celebrations. Thus, the popular KINFOLK DINNERS (of the eponymous magazine) are reminiscent of family dining experiences.
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y t r a P er n n i D
The DINNER PARTY is a more ELEGANT and FORMAL OCCASION , which can be celebrated with FRIENDS and a MULTI-COURSE DINNER . The tradition dates back to evening gatherings amongst the ENGLISH ARISTOCRACY in its manor houses. A well-laid table, fine evening clothing and several courses to eat make the dinner party a popular event.
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er n n i D t h g i l e Candl A ROMANTIC CANDLELIGHT DINNER is a popular experience for COUPLES , though the dinner by the light of candles has only been regarded as exceptionally romantic from the 1930s onwards. Since the beginning of the 20th CENTURY , it came into fashion with the invention of electricity to eat out in restaurants that were brightly lit. Electrical lighting was deemed, however, by some to be too vulgar; candlelight was associated with an elegant gentility. Thus, there were tea rooms in Greenwich
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village, which solely used candlelight to set themselves apart from the competition and to signal good taste. From the 1950s onwards, candlelight dinners developed as the more NOBLE ALTERNATIVE to restaurant dining.
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PROMO
Foodstyling Lukas Grossmann Photos Nicky Walsh
Supper The idea of a dinner is not only interesting when looking at its cultural history but still takes a central role in our day. And oftentimes it is accompanied by the question: what's for dinner? Our partner, the California Walnut Association, took a closer look at this topic and
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put together their community's favorite dinner recipes ― of course, including California Walnuts. They are perfect for different occasions, from a cozy snack just for you to a family dinner or a party with friends. What is your favorite dinner recipe?
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PROMO
T a s te th e s u n ! C a li fo rn ia n W a ln u ts a re k n o w n fo r th e ir m il d ta s te th a n k s to th e w a rm a n d s u n n y c li m a te in w h ic h th e y g ro w !
Banana-Nut-Bake SISTER-MAG.COM
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for a sweet evening treat
D OW NLOA D
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 PEOPLE
100 g ra i s i n s , w as h e d 100 g Ca l i fo r n i a n w a l n u ts , ch o p p e d 5 tbsp p i n e n u t s
15 minutes
15 minutes
the washed raisins, walnuts, pine nuts and honey in a saucepan. Spread the mixture into a casserole dish and drizzle with rum.
8 tbsp r u m
b a n an a s
J u i ce o f 1 le m o n 60 g b u t te r 3
Baking t ime
1 . Heat
8 tbsp h o n ey 6
P reparat ion t ime
2 . Slice the banana, drizzle with
e gg w h i te s
lemon juice and shortly fry it off. Then layer the banana into the casserole dish.
150 g ici n g s u ga r
3 . Beat the egg whites with the icing sugar. Transfer the beaten egg whites into a piping bag and pipe small blobs onto the bananas.
ROUGH NUTRITIONAL FACTS PER SERVING
En e rgy
596 kc al
Prote i n
9,91 g
C ar b oh yd ra te s
63,6 g
Fat
28,8 g
4 . Bake for around 15 minutes at 220°C. Dust with icing sugar and enjoy.
O f which s a t u rate d 7 ,89 g fa t s un sat ura te d fa t s
20,9 g
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Avocado- PineappleSpread PROMO
with Californian Wanuts
for a quick dinner ― maybe served on the couch?
Pre pa ra t i o n time
Fr id g e time
15 minutes
1 Hour
INGREDIENTS
1 . Drain the pineapple. 2 . Wash the basil, shake dry, pick
FOR 4 PEOPLE
100 g can n e d pie ce s o f p i n e ap p lei n / 2
b u n ch o f ba s i l
150 g
Avo ca d o
1
clove o f g a r l i c
30 g
gra te d Peco r in o
80 g
crè me fra îc h e
50 g Ca l i fo r n i a n w a l n u ts , ch o p p e d
4 . Stir in walnuts, season with salt and pepper. Let cool in the fridge for 1 hour.
S al t , fre s h ly g ro u n d w h i te p e p pe r SISTER-MAG.COM
3 . Peel the avocado and remove the pit. Drizzle with lemon juice and purée in a mixer. Add the peeled and pressed clove of garlic as well as pecorino, basil, crème fraîche and pineapple and finely purée.
S o m e le m o n ju i ce
1
off the leaves and chop finely.
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D OW NLOA D
ROUGH NUTRITIONAL FACTS PER SERVING
Ene rgy
2 47 kc al
P rote i n
5,5 g
C arbohy d ra te s
7,58 g
Fat
2 1 ,3 g
O f which s at u ra te d 7,42 g fat s uns at ura te d fa t s
13,9 g
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PROMO
Alsacian Tarte FlambĂŠe w i t h p e a r, w a l n u t , g o a t c h e e s e , t h y m e
for a dinner party with friends SISTER-MAG.COM
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D OW NLOA D
INGREDIENTS
FOR 4 PEOPLE
FOR THE DOUGH
250 g w h e at flo u r 100 g w h o le w h ea t f lo u r o r l u p i n e f lo u r
Preparat ion t ime 15 minutes
1 t s p s a l t 2 t b s p ra p e s e e d oi l
ab o u t 1 8 0 m l w a te r Or ready-made tarte fl amb é e pa str y i f yo u 're i n a r u s h
P rov ing t ime
Baking t ime
30 minutes
15-20 minutes
FOR THE TOPPINGS
2 00 g s o u r cre am
1 . Thoroughly knead water, salt and oil. Let rest for about 30 minutes. The dough should be slightly sticky but not too moist.
cre a m y goa t c h e e s e
2 00 g
s ma l l p e a rs
3-4 12
Ca l i fo r n i a n w a l n u ts
100g S e r ra n o h a m
2 . Preheat oven to 240°C (Fan: 215 °C, Gas: Level 5).
pepper
1 t s p t h ym e , ch o ppe d ( s u b st i t u te fo r dr ie d i f n e ce ss ary )
3 . Roll out the dough and put it on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper.
1-2 tb s p h o n ey, l i q u i d
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PROMO
O
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W h a t' s in it ?
W a ln u ts a re th e o n ly tr e e n u t th a t is a n e x c e ll e n t s o u rc e o f a lp h a li n o le n ic a c id (A L A ), th e p la n tb a s e d o m e g a -3 e s s e n ti a l fa tt y a c id . They cannot be made in th e b o d y, s o th e y m u s t c o m e fr o m o u r fo o d . T h e y c a n h e lp lo w e r th e ri s k o f h e a rt d is e a s e o r in fl a m m a ti on.
4 . Spread the sour cream on the dough, leaving a small crust around the outside. Wash, core and thinly slice the pear and evenly spread it. Tear the ham into small pieces and drape it over the fruit. Roughly chop the walnuts and add.
ROUGH NUTRITIONAL FACTS
5 . Crumble the goat cheese over the top and season with pepper and thmye. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until brown and crispy.
PER SERVING
Energy
84 9 kc al
P rote i n
25,7 g
C a rbohyd ra te s
83 ,3 g
Fat
44 ,3 g
6 . Drip the honey over the baked tarte flambĂŠe immediately.
O f which sa t u ra te d 17 ,8 g fat s u n sat urate d fa t s
26,5 g
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and
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PROMO
WALNUTLemon-Pasta Soulfood for a family dinner
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D OW NLOA D
INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE
60 g
Ca l i fo r n i a n w a l n u ts
1
o rga n i c le m o n
30 g
b u t te r
10 g
s a ge
5 t bsp
cre am
Preparat ion t ime 20 minutes
s al t a n d p e ppe r 5 0 g
parmesan
2 t bs p s u n flowe r s e e ds 300 g
p a sta o f you r c h o i ce
1 . Cook the pasta al dente according to package instructions.
2 . Meanwhile, chop the walnuts and grate the parmesan. H e a l t h y Fa t s
Wa l n u t s c o n t a in polyunsaturat ed fatty acids which we need for our brain and heart fun ctions!
3 . Wash the lemon with hot water. Grate the zest into a small bowl and juice the lemon.
4 . Melt the butter in a saucepan
ROUGH NUTRITIONAL FACTS PRO PORTION CA.
Ene rgy
557 kc al
P rote i n
18 g
C a r b ohy d ra te s
56 g
Fat
28,1 g
Of wh i ch sat urate d fa t s
1 0,9 g
uns at ura te d fa t s 1 7 ,1 9 g
and lightly toast the walnuts and sunflower seeds. Add sage and after a further 2 minutes, add the cream. Stir, add the lemon juice and zest. Season with salt and pepper. If needed, loosen with a little pasta water.
5 . Add pasta to sauce and mix well. Arrange on plates and serve with grated parmesan. 59
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P H O T O S & S T Y L I N G : F O O D S T Y L I N G :
C L A U D I A G Ö D K E N A D I N E P A G E
|
Invitation to game night
T IME T O SO CIA L ISE . T IME FO R FRIE N S.
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rounds. And suddenly it was time for an evening snack! Sometimes you are not prepared for that one hundred percent. This feature prepares you for exactly these moments: instead of rummaging through your fridge, you'll exactly know what to grab and what to throw together.
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discussions and exciting card game
E
friends that continued with good
I
coffee-and-cake afternoons with
F R
This feature was inspired by variour
H I T
F O
R
W
Snack Boards
With food stylist NADINE PAGE I created snack boards for spontaneous meetings and time with friends. The result is a conglomeration of beautiful ingredients that can be stored well at home and that you can quickly put together into a SNACK BOARD .
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cheese
SHOPPING LIST FOR YOUR PANTRY
1.
Hard Cheeses
For an elaborate card game
2.
Goat cream cheese balls in oil
like Phase10 or UNO, there
I N
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Jam or fig mustard
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cheese platter you'll be definitely the
F O
6. Nuts
trifles. With a perfect
star of the evening.
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Crackers
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cheeses and matching N
4. Fruits
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Turkish confectionery with pistachios
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is a whole assortment of
It is best to add some ingredients such as
fig mustard, churneys, pomegranates or grapes.
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dipping. A tasteful oil is a great addition.
G
from the sea: sardines
good, dark bread for
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can: important is a
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SHOPPING
we prepare little treats
or octopus from the
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For the game of dices
I C
Fish Snacks
R F O
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1.
Seasonal sardines served with salad or cress
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Octopus from the can, with a generous squeeze of lemon
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Chili oil
4. Caperberries 5.
Rye bread
6. Herb butter
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Charcuterie Snack
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J
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J O L L
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rumm
& Pâtés
We call it lovingly »the most
SHOPPING
LIST FOR YOUR
romantic meats platter of the
PANTRY
year«: Accompanying our classic game of rummy are pâtés, bacon,
1.
Pâtés
and salami, ready to be snacked
2.
Pickles
3.
Olives
and enjoyed. Unmissable, of course, are also some pickles and
4. Smoked bacon
olives, always hand to stock up on
5.
in your storage!
6. Spicy mustard 7.
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Salami
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Crispbread or pumpernickel
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C H E C K L I S T S
T O
D O W N L O A D
festive season
PRE PA RAT IO N S FO R T H E
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Do you also get nervous solely by thinking of the many to-dos before Christmas? Thereby the coziest time of the year can not be enjoyed! We thought we bring a little order into the hectic pre-Christmas days and put together for you some Christmas checklists for the most important tasks during Christmas time - like planning the trip home or the purchase of Christmas gifts. With our sisterMAG Christmas checklists Christmas 2019 can come!
Going home
Checklist 1
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Checklist 2
Presents
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Checklist 3
Christmas dinner
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Checklist 4
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Find the Download in our next sisterMAG newsletter! How it works? Just sign up for the newsletter here and we will send you and email with the download link.
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inspired SISTER-MAG.COM
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Photos Cris Santos Styling & Designs Evi Neubauer Hair & Make-up Katharina Handel Model Marie Darme
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Coat & Trousers
I t ’s a l l i n t h e details. The high waist of this pair of red narrowwale corduroy trousers, makes it super c o m f y.
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Red is THE f s d g d f g s d g d sc g o sl odu r o f the season. Amongst the grey shades o f W i n t e r, i t gleams from a f a r. T h e e n t i r e outfit is kept in red, featuring a cosy coat, made from broadcloth, smock-blouse, and corduroy trousers.
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sisterMAG54-2 smock-blouse details
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Smock Blouse
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The details of this smockembroidered blouse are inspired by embroidery patterns from past centuries.
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Text CAROLIN KRALAPP Photos GRASSI MUSEUM FÜR ANGEWANDTE KUNST
WOMAN'S COAT
LAST THIRD OF 19TH CENTURY E M B RO I D E RY I N A P P L I CATI O N A N D A P P L I CATI O N
TEC H N IQU E WITH SI LVER LAH N, TWISTED SI LVER STR I N G S A N D D E CO RATI V E B UT TO N S
ACQ U I R E D F ROM P R I VATE OW N E R S H I P -
I N V. N R . 2 0 1 7. 8 3 2 A , B
I TA LY, G E R M A N Y 2017
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EMBROI DERY I N SI LK ON TEXTI LE SURFACE
I N V. N R . 1 9 6 4 . 1 2 1
BOOTS “FLORA’S PRESENT”
1 5 0 0 Y E A R S O F E M B R O I D E R Y I N F A S H I O N « 2 1 . 1 1 . 2 0 1 9 2 9 . 0 3 . 2 0 2 0 B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S A T T H E G R A S S I M U S E U M F O R A P P L I E D A R T S
»History in Fashion«
N E W E X H IBIT IO N
PROMO
BOLERO JAECKET
AROUND 1925
M E TA L L L A C E , G O L D E N L A M M É , E M B R O I D E RY
TURQUOISE GREEN CRÉPE GEORGETTE,
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SI LVER AN D GOLD EMBOI DERY
DA L MATI A, A RO U N D 1900, MA D E O F W H I TE C LOTH,
EVENING OUTFIT THREAD ON SILK
EMBROIDERY IN SILK, GOLD AND SILBER
G E R M A NY, 2 N D H A L F O F T H E 18 T H C E N TU RY,
LADIES' GLOVES
PROMO
The GRASSI Museum is a special museum ensemble, housing three museums in the heart of Leipzig. The GRASSI Museum for Applied Arts, the GRASSI Museum for Ethnology in Leipzig and the GRASSI Museum for Musical Instruments University of Leipzig. The GRASSI Museum for Applied Arts was founded as early as 1874 as the second German Museum of Decorative Arts, seven years after the foundation of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Berlin. Named after the Leipzig merchant and patron Franz Dominic Grassi, his legacy financed the museum’s first building. Between 1925-1929 the famous museum area at Johannisplatz was built and became one of the most modern museum ensembles of its time. SISTER-MAG.COM
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GRASSI Museum
The museum closed its doors before the outbreak of the Second World War, was severely damaged during the bombing and had a large part of the museum's collection relocated. The running of the museum was extremely restricted for several decades and even stopped altogether at the beginning of the 1980s due to construction problems.
It was only after 1994 that it was possible to re-exhibit to the public on a small scale The majority of the collections remained in storage and even today a considerable amount of the museum's inventories are still waiting to be shown. In 2006 the entire museum complex was extensively reconstructed and reopened in 2007. The architecture of the GRASSI Museum certainly has highlights in store. The portico with its Art Deco elements and which served as a backdrop for the museum’s latest fashion photoshoot. And the stunning staircase window designed by the Bauhaus master Josef Albers.
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But the museum collections alone have a lot of stories to tell. We take a look behind the scenes of the GRASSI Museum for Applied Arts and give you an exclusive preview of the upcoming exhibition »History in Fashion – 1500 Years of Embroidery in Fashion«. Speaking to museum curator Dr Stefanie Seeberg, we gained interesting insights into the exhibition and were able to have a sneak peek at the new exhibits.
Interview with the curator Dr. Stefanie Seeberg
I N T E R V I E W :
C AROL IN K RAL AP P
Dr Seeberg, can you tell us a little about the history of the museum collection? I would love to. A large part of the collection originated from the second half of the 19th century. SISTER-MAG.COM
We intend to offer artisans role models and inspiration as well as educational programs for the general public. Naturally, the collections are strongly influenced by the trends of the 19th century. This explains why numerous cultures can be found in the collection’s objects. That was a big focus at the time. The GRASSI Museum of Applied Arts now houses over 230,000 objects in its collection.
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EXHIBITION OPENING
PROMO
20 November 2019, 7pm You can visit the exhibition »History in Fashion - 1500 Years of Embroidery in Fashion« from 21 November 2019 - 29 March 2020, Tuesday to Sunday and on public holidays from 10am 6pm. You can find the extensive accompanying programme for the exhibition HERE .
You are the curator of the Textile Collection - What can you tell us about embroidery? Embroidery gives textiles an everlasting meaning. The technique of embroidery is direct and deliberate such as in weaving, painting or printing. What few know is that text and images have been applied to clothing since the late antiquity.
How is the exhibition thematically structured? The first section of the exhibition deals with »Clothing as a carrier of meaning«. We start with early Egyptian fragment finds. We show the naked objects as they are, with damage and wear because they all have their own history. At the start of the collection, visitors* will be greeted by a
very special exhibit: a bone needle from the Prehistoric and Early History Museum in Halle. The second section is dedicated to the world of flora and fauna, which served as a constant source of inspiration for embroidery. This is followed by a diverse collection showing an endless variety of material possibilities using embroidery. From gold, silver and sequins which were used on textiles to increase their value for example. Then we go on a journey admiring pieces from other cultures. They could be found in many European museums from the 19th century onwards. The last two areas of the exhibition are dedicated to the embroidery of today, such as in ReUse and Upcycling techniques. To round
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PROMO
CHRISTENING ROBE
F R O M A D E CO R AT I V E B L A N K E T, G E R M A N Y ( S A X O N Y ? ) , L AT E 1 8 T H C E N T U R Y.
CO LO R E D S I L K E M B RO I D E RY O N L I N E N BATI ST D O N ATI O N F ROM P R I VATE OW N E R S H I P
off, we present the new paths that the textile and fashion designers* of tomorrow will be taking. Nine textile students taught by Prof. Bettina Göttke-Krogmann, from the Burg Giebichenstein Academy of Art in Halle, will show their current work. Even though the word »fashion« appears in the exhibition’s title, this show is focussing on the technique of embroidery and its application to clothing of all kinds and not primarily on big brands in fashion. Nevertheless, there will also be some haute couture pieces on display, including Dolce & Gabbana. Accompanying the
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exhibition, we have also designed a catalogue containing numerous macro photographs of individual objects. This helps those interested to find out more about what we have to offer in terms of objects and stories.
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What is the aim of your curated exhibition »History in Fashion«? We would like to give visitors an insight into our extremely versatile and expansive textile collection. You will learn in detail what embroidery entails and its importance which has been preserved over the centuries. It is easy to see how historical embroidery still inspires fashion designers today. Even though the
majority of the exhibits are historical, we are not presenting a purely historical exhibition. The reference to the present is of upmost important to us. Of course, it is not possible to display the entire chronological history of embroidery in all its detail. But visitors can experience a good cross-section with curated examples.
What will the exhibition’s accompanying programme look like? There will be a whole array of activities that we are looking forward to presenting. We will be offering several guided tours throughout the exhibition. Hands-on workshops in which visitors* can get creative and
embroider their own textiles. The young designer Magdalena Sophie Orland will be giving an open workshop in the exhibition rooms almost every Wednesday from 3pm to 5pm. The participants* can bring material and create beautiful embroidery together. At the end of November, Laurent and Hermann Progin, master students of designer Guido Maria Kretschmer’s master class, will also be offering an open workshop. Children and families can also enjoy an additional programme with special offers throughout the winter holidays. All the details of the programme can be found on our website .
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Stefanjia Why is embroidery fascinating you?
First of all because it has texture and can make any surface looks more interesting than it was. Also because you can't really make mistakes, or no mistake is forever you can rip out the stitches in few seconds and voila you can start again - life utopia. I had a very bad art teacher in my elementary school - she was on a good way to kill our creativity forever, she was always saying that nobody of us knows how to draw or paint or anything about art. I was thinking I’m the biggest anti talent ever. Hand embroidery saved my creativity. It was the first medium where I felt completely relaxed and in alignment with my true nature. Even though I still didn’t learn how to work with paint, my favorite technique ever is coloring with thread and needle. What made you start with embroidery?
Embroidery has always been present in my life. I grew up with three grandmothers, all of them embroiderers, crafters and one professional tailor. Fabrics, yarns, needles, looms and colorful textiles were everywhere in all of the houses I spent my childhood. It was impossible not to be mesmerized by all of the textures on different objects in their living rooms. My favorite magical grandma taught me how to knit when I was very young - maybe 8 years old,
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she was also an amazing creative soul and was embroidering a lot of the time. She never really taught me how to embroider, but I pick it up from watching her and the items she created. I made and embroidered my first upcycled bag from an old pair of jeans when I was 12 years old. That was more than two decades ago. I’ve never stopped since then. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I mostly use 6-string embroidery cotton threads and as canvas I only use natural fabrics. I use 5’’ hoop and embroidery needle No.3 most of the time. Fine and precise hand embroidery is more satisfying for me - so I mostly do small stitches with only 3 strings of the embroidery floss.
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practice. So when your first result is not satisfying - give it a bit of time. If you want to embroider clothing don’t start embroidering stretchy fabrics like jersey, start with the linen, flat cotton shirts and light denim pieces. If you need to seek inspiration to create original work try to find it in any other form of art except embroidery, so you don’t end up copying other embroiderers. Where do inspiration?
you
find
your
Literally everywhere. In the objects I see everyday, in nature, music I listen daily, movies, books, photos I see scrolling instagram, children’s drawings, modern illustration themes, but also in the work of the greatest painters of our time and in the history.
Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
Patience - embroidery is super easy, satisfying and meditative technique, but it needs a lot of
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Steph
@knotorious.be
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
I think it is really interesting that you can customize anything with just some threads and a nice design. Everybody is unique but taylored clothes are costly so with embroidery you can wear your heart on your sleeve and get stitched. :-) Also you can give basic clothes or favourite pieces a twist. And man, what have I been earning bonus points from my friends and family with personal embroidered gifts. What I love is when people order a custom piece I receive beautiful stories on why they SISTER-MAG.COM
chose a specific design. It's lovely to see that people really think about characteristics that are typical for their loved ones to make a custom gift. Baby announcements, birthday or Christmas gifts where never so personal. What made embroidery?
you
start
with
Well it accidentally started when my godchild asked something handmade for her birthday instead of ordering something online. At first I didn't know what to do but I bought myself some 100
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threads and a basic T-shirt and gave it a try. I was surprised how good it turned out and the following year all birthday presents for friends and family where handmade shirts. After that it got a bit out of hand and people started ordering things for people I didn't know or give workshops. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I always use an embroidery hoop to tighten the fabric and have a clear »working area«. Furthermore I work with embroidery threads of DMC. It's as simple as that, you don't need machinery or expensive tools. Do you have beginners?
a
tip
for
embroidery
Just try a few things on a piece of fabric or clothes you don't wear anymore. Also try some different stitches, it gives that extra »handmade touch«. But also, don't be too hard on yourself, it's handmade so it doesn't have to be perfect. Where do you find your inspiration?
I find it in the mails I receive for custom orders, on Pinterest, magazines, from illustrators I follow on Instagram, colleague embroiderers,... You can apply embroidery on everything so I see a canvas in everything these days.
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Sara
@fiberandf loss
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
Embroidery is fascinating to me because you can use it to emulate many different art mediums. I like doing traditional calligraphy with thread, or doodling with thread. Some people paint landscapes with thread. Embroidery can take on many different forms, and I think that's what's fascinating about the art. It's also an art form that has developed so much over the years. Embroidery is an old technique that is being brought back in a modern way. What made you start with embroidery?
Embroidery kind of fell into my lap. I am a visual designer and social media manager by day so I stare at a computer screen for too many hours. I needed a SISTER-MAG.COM
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hobby that kept the creative juices flowing, but got my eyes off a screen. I did a little embroidery as a kid, and it's a very cheap and compact art, so I decided to pick it back up. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I love embroidering on cotton. There are so many color options, and a lot of times you can catch a good sale. I use DMC embroidery floss because of the great quality. I also use the basic wooden embroidery hoops, embroidery needles, and cute little embroidery scissors.
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many times I pulled entire pieces apart. It's just part of the process. Where do inspiration?
you
find
your
As an artist in many different mediums, inspiration can come from anywhere. I love black and white line drawings, Mother Nature is a great source of inspiration, and I'm inspired by other embroidery artists.
Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
Keep stitching! Embroidery isn't a fast art, it takes a lot of patience. The more you practice, the better you'll get. And don't be afraid to pull your stitches out if you aren't happy with them. When I first started there were
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Becka
@threadbybecka
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
I find embroidery to be extremely therapeutic. It always amazes me the way it helps me disconnect from everything around me. It has me so concentrated on the movements of my hands and the details of the image that it doesn’t allow me to think about anything else, which is JUST what you need after a long day. What made embroidery?
you
start
with
Embroidery kind of found ME to be honest. I was shopping on a craft store once, saw a hoop and thought I'd give it a try. I used to paint a lot when I was younger so I thought if I could manage to do the same with needles and thread, it could be something beautiful. There are always people telling me they only thought about embroidery as a
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craft for older people and it makes me so happy to see all these new generations reviving such noble crafts as these. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I ONLY use »anchor pearl cotton« threads. The quality, variety of colors and texture are just beautiful. Other than that, regular sewing needles because they give me a lot more control with such little stitches. And reclaimed wood hoops I find in one of my local stores.
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time to it. No short cuts, every stitch matters. Where do you inspiration?
find
your
All around me! We do a lot of greenery and botanics #plantmom so, as seasons change, we change. And when in doubt, Pinterest.
Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
Yes! I always tell people on our workshops »be patient, practice a lot, pay attention to the details«. Contrary to what it seems, I believe embroidery to be a very easy craft to master IF you're willing to dedicate
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Miriam
@slow_evenings_embroidery
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
I guess I’m so attracted to embroidery because I love the slow way of living and embroidery and other fibre arts are a very slow craft. The process of embroidering is very rewarding; watching the piece slowly take shape and the sound of a thread being pulled through the textile. It’s like a mindfulness practice. My two favourite things about embroidery are definitely textures and colours. I love combining them together. I think about the colour palette and »texture palette« of my pieces at the same time. I also make a lot of texture samples before starting new embroidery. Working with fibres is very rewarding to me, maybe because the material is so beautiful and soft and making things with it gives me so much joy. What made embroidery?
you
start
with
I started by accident, I was searching for a relaxing hobby, that would help with busy overachiever mind calm down. I was out shopping and I saw this beginners cactus embroidery pillow kit and I bought it on a whim. Embroidering it was one of the most calming and relaxing things I’ve done in a long time and I was hooked immediately. After that, I bought more supplies and some beautiful embroidery thread and started working on my own designs, and sharing them on Instagram. I’m self-taught, mostly by watching a lot of tutorials and SISTER-MAG.COM
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learning different types of stitches and techniques. The embroidery community was very welcoming and they helped me a lot with developing my skills. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I like to work with cotton the most, both fabric and thread. My favourite fabric is calico cotton canvas, which is unbleached and has little dark speckles which add a lovely natural look to the embroidery. As for the thread I almost exclusively use DMC stranded cotton thread as it’s great quality and has the best colours, which in my opinion make or break an embroidery. I also can’t resist beautiful embroidery scissors like the iconic stork ones or cute snips in different colours. Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
I think the best way to start embroidering is to buy a kit with all the necessary supplies and follow a pattern that you like. After that,
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you can buy some more supplies (good quality fabric and threads make a huge difference in the look of embroidery) and test what you like best. There are a lot of video tutorials showing how to make different stitches and a lot of blog posts digging deeper into nuances of embroidery. Don’t be afraid to experiment with what you already know and of course, like with everything else, practice makes perfect, so don’t beat yourself up if your first pieces aren’t flawless, you’ll improve with time. Where do inspiration?
you
find
your
I get most of my inspiration from illustration and graphic design. I follow a lot of talented artists on Instagram and also have different Pinterest boards for inspiration. I look for inspiration on a daily basis and ideas for new designs just come to me and I always have a couple of notebooks at hand so I can sketch the ideas quickly. Right now I definitely have more sketches of future projects than time to make them.
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Jessica @mustard.thread
www.mustardthread.com
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
It´s fascinating to me because it’s like painting something. Your canvas is fabric and your paint is thread. The creativity is endless! What made you start with embroidery?
January of 2018 I was taking an Adulting class my freshman year of college. At one point each group of students had to teach the class something useful for adulthood and me and my friend Philip decided to teach the class to sew. Since my mom taught me I thought it would be put to good use. While practicing for the presentation in my dorm room, me and my friend Tyra stitched our names on fabric using basic sewing techniques. It’s funny because I didn’t even know what embroidery really was at the time, but that helped spark interest. During the summer, my older sister Edith who was already running her independent bracelet business would constantly encourage me to start my own small business. That sounded like a lovely idea but I had SISTER-MAG.COM
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no idea what my passion was. My parents are very creative and talented people and it rubs off on me and my siblings. Originally my only craft hobbies were drawing, making origami figures, and crocheting. My mom would talk about how my grandmother loved to embroider and she wanted to teach me and my sister the skill. Over the summer I started discovering more about embroidery and I invested my time to learn by watching video tutorials and teaching myself. I started with some scraps of fabric I had bought a while ago and I used the thread my sister would use to make her bracelets to embroider. As someone who struggled with anxiety, it was therapeutic to me in a sense and I loved it the more I practiced. The freedom to embroider anything I wanted with any colors and fabrics was exciting. There was always something new to learn, and since then I’ve become so invested. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I strive to use the best materials for each project because I want to make sure it’s a long lasting, meaningful piece. I prefer to use wooden hoops to give my 109
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designs a balanced natural look. I love stitching on linen, muslin, and cotton twill fabric! Variety pack embroidery needles are so helpful as well because anytime I need to use 6, 4 , or 2 strands of DMC thread, the different needle sizes allow me the flexibility to use however many strands of thread I need comfortably. Fabric scissors never fail to do the job! Also, tacky glue is a great way to glue the fabric on the wood hoop and maintain the design in place. Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
Embroidery is a versatile creative outlet so more importantly have fun and do what works best for you. There are so many different materials like fabrics with different textures, different embroidery hoops, and different threads to embroider with. You can even embroider on clothes, bags, shoes, and so on. Be willing to take some time to explore and discover what you enjoy using and making. You can even begin by purchasing an embroidery kit from another embroidery artist and attempt to complete a project and see what stitches you are more comfortable doing.
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Where do inspiration?
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find
your
My inspiration comes from a variety of things. My designs are inspired by my current favorite colors, flowers, and plants. I want my art to reflect what I love. My talented friends and family and people that surround me inspire me to try new things and pursue my passion. I sell my pieces in a beautiful shop in Georgia called Revolutionaries Market and the community of artists there inspire me to be the best person and artist I can be. Another medium of inspiration is based on my faith in Jesus, personal struggles, and moments of happiness. In September I released a collection called the Redeemed collection because I opened up about my struggles with anxiety and panic attacks and how I was learning to overcome them but find joy simultaneously. It was a collection inspired by things I love and encouragement that helped me find hope. It was my way of representing that something beautiful can grow in the midst of joy and pain. I want to translate that into my art. It’s my way of putting into words what the Lord has done in my life.
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Anna @maana_jewellery
Why is embroidery fascinating you?
Embroidery is not only beautiful, fashionable and modern, it also has relaxing and calming properties. I enjoy the process of developing new models, selecting materials, composing the composition and the embroidery process itself, when using beads, crystals and other materials you create paintings that you then turn in the decoration! What made you start with embroidery?
I have been embroidering jewelry for almost 3 years. It all started with the desire to make a brooch of beads for myself, because at that moment it was very stylish and fashionable. Without any knowledge and master classes, I myself figured out the techniques, at SISTER-MAG.COM
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first the work was very simple, but neat, only after a year of training, I gradually began to implement my own designs. What materials do you use for your embroidery projects?
I work only with high quality materials, using Swarovski crystals and pearls and other luxury materials. Working with quality products, the product has incredible brilliance, expensive and fancy look and grace. And of course, such products will last a very long time and will only please you.
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and fabulous embroidery projects! This is nature, any leaf or flower can give me an inspiration for my next creation. In nature, you can find not only forms but also unimaginable color combinations. I love to watch fashion shows, modern designs are very brave and not repeatable! Dream and inspiration will definitely come!
Do you have a tip for embroidery beginners?
Advice for beginners - do not be afraid of your ideas, try, experiment, enjoy the process and the result. Now there are a lot of paid and free educational resources for embroidery. Start for yourself, for the soul! Where do you find your inspiration?
The Beauty Around me inspires me for new
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W H E N G E R H A R D R I C H T E R » W O M A N W A L K I N G D O W N
1965
THE YEAR
P A I N T E D H I S T H E S T A I R S «
Text: Elisabeth Stursberg
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What was happening in the year in which our main artwork for this issue, Gerhard Richter’s »Woman walking down the stairs«, was created? What was in the news, what was occupying people’s minds, and which developments determined daily life, or not? In our series »The Year X« we take a closer look at a year and fill the number with life. All the different areas of life play a role here: Politics and history, arts, meteorology, the public sphere. We reconstruct the historical context to paint the bigger picture. In this issue: the year 1965.
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the year
BIOGRAPHIES On 24 January 1965, Winston Churchill died in London. He was already a legend, thanks to his political successes. But not only that: Churchill famously had always pursued various hobbies outside of his work, like painting, which was perhaps his favourite pastime. He was particularly fascinated by landscapes and, like a good impressionist, could often be found outdoors, the canvas set up in front of
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him, focussed on capturing the scene before him. Thanks to his paintings, we can understand which holiday destinations were particularly close to his heart: Morocco, southern France or Madeira, to name but a few.
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POLITICS & PUBLIC SPHERE 15 February 1965, Ottawa: Canada’s brand new national flag was hoisted for the very first time. All those involved on Parliament Hill – and not just them – were relieved to finally close this chapter. It had proven unexpectedly difficult to reconcile the numerous diverging opinions on the redesign, and over time the finding phase had grown into a »Great Flag Debate«. Two key goals, however, were universal: The flag was supposed to, finally, symbolise Canada’s complete national independence from Great Britain – and it was also planned to become a national symbol with high recognition value all around the world, a new icon. W o u l d the single Maple Leaf in red succeed?
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PERFORMING ARTS
POLITICS & TRAVEL
It was 5 April 1965 and, in the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium, the film musical »My Fair Lady« with Audrey Hepburn and Rex Harrison won one Oscar after the other: eight in total (it had been nominated for twelve). After its premiere in the previous year, it had quickly become clear that the film would grow to be a classic. That night, however, the Oscar for Best Actress was awarded to Julie Andrews for her role in »Mary Poppins«. The star of the original musical version of »My Fair Lady« had had to leave the illustrious film part to Audrey Hepburn – a temporary career setback that now turns out to be priceless, bringing Andrews, indirectly, her first Oscar since it had given her the time to do »Mary Poppins« instead.
Feverish preparations for the visit of Queen Elizabeth II visit in May revealed, among other things, that there were only a few accommodations in Western Germany that were suitable for the queen. Meanwhile, the young Federal Republic was entirely seized by something like a Queen fever: Newspapers and magazines dutifully educated readers about etiquette questions, while all tails in all costume rentals were apparently lent at once – no chance of getting one anymore. The »visit of the century«, as it was perceived by many, brought West Germans a long awaited respite from the Cold War and Auschwitz trials, allowing the FRG to fully indulge in royal glamour for a few weeks. 119
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WEATHER Unusually heavy snowfalls hit South Africa in June. They lasted, with interruptions, until well into July.
POLITICS It was 1 July 1965 and in the European Council of Ministers in Brussels the seat of the French representative remained empty. President Charles de Gaulle did not like at all how his European partners intended to finance the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) in the
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future, so he decided to take consequences and ordered his permanent representative to return to Paris. Without the latter present, the Council of Ministers was effectively unable to act and the »empty chair« therefore became one of the bigger stumbling blocks on the long road towards the European Single Market.
ADVENTURE Two weeks later, while preparations for France’s national holiday were in full swing in Paris, a good 500 kilometres farther to the southeast, Yvette Vaucher and her husband Michel set out to climb the notoriously difficult north face of the Matterhorn. The expedition was successful, and after the couple even managed to
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outpace a parallel tour by other mountain climbers, Vaucher was officially the first woman to ever conquer the route – exactly a hundred years after the first person had climbed the mountain’s north face.
RELIGION & SOCIETY It was also the first time that the United Nations had invited a Pope to address the General Assembly. Paul VI. used the unique forum on 4 October 1965 for a flaming appeal for peace: »Was not this the very end for which the United Nations came into existence: to be against war and for peace?« (The entire speech in English can be found here His agenda in the following days was packed; he would, among other things,
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hold a mass for 90,000 believers in Yankee Stadium.
RESEARCH & HEALTH In mid-November, a specially developed version of the contraceptive pill was entered in the drug register of the German Democratic Republic and released for sale, a mere few years after a similar product had been launched on the West German market. The public’s reactions were mostly positive, which might have had something to do with the fact that here, unlike in the West, the pill was dubbed »desired child pill« (or something along those lines, the amicable term in German is »Wunschkindpille«). Moreover, its effect was not all that unwelcome in the socialist planned economy, keyword: »Pillen-Knick« (the sudden drop in birth rates due to oral contraceptives).
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A R O U N D
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Famous stairs
SPE CTACUL A R UPS A N D DO W N S
ST AI RS
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Stairs are used to bridge the height-gap, so technically, they can be considered quite unspectacular. However, there are some stairs which truly reach new heights. Here are some of the most unforgettable examples worldwide. One step at a time – very few stairs make it into the Stair Hall of Fame. But some of them are exquisite constructions in length, material or design. Here are a few spectacular examples.
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ROMe T H E H O L Y T R I N I T Y I N S T A I R C A S E - F O R M
R O M
There are stairs in Rome with the wonderful sounding name Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti.
Only acknowledged Rome experts, however, will have any idea which ones are meant. Translated into English though, everyone will recognise the SPANISH STEPS . SISTER-MAG.COM
With its 136 steps, it derived its English name from the PIAZZA DI SPAGNA (»Spanish Square«) it leads to.
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Characteristic of its structure is its threefold-division repeated along its total length of 68 meters. This design element by architect FRANCESCO DE SANCTIS was a not so subtle nod to the HOLY TRINITY and the SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI
church rising at the top of the stairs. By the way, be careful where you sit. Since August, it is officially forbidden to sit on the Spanish Steps. If you do, you will be liable to pay a fine of up to 400 Euros. 125
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O D E S S A -
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The film »Battleship Potemkin« is almost 100 years old. By Russian director Sergei Eisenstein, it opened in cinemas in 1925.
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One of the key scenes of the film1 is a well-known sequence – not only among movie buffs. It is set on a majestic staircase. Armed SISTER-MAG.COM
with rifles, the Cossacks descend them to shoot a group of rebels who then fall on the steps one by one. Iconically, a baby laden pram
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O D E S S A
rolls down the stairs, passing the dead bodies on its way. The stairs on which this cinematic drama took place, are located in the Ukrainian city of Odessa. The steps are the formal entrance to the city and take you from the harbour to the centre of town. After its construction from 18371841 , it still lacked an official
name. Residents used to call it the BOULEVARD or RICHELIEU STEPS . Nonetheless, it soon became a landmark in Odessa which intensified with the film. In 1955 , the stairs were finally named–THE POTEMKIN STAIRS , taking into account the film they were featured in.
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j a n e i r o
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Rio de Janeiro T I L E S F R O M 6 0 C O U N T R I E S
Rio de Janeiro has quite a few landmarks: the Jesus statue, the Sugarloaf Mountain, the Copacabana – to name only a few. . In recent years, a flight of stairs has joined the ranks. SISTER-MAG.COM
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The Escadaria Selarón was a one-man project named after its architect, the Chilean Jorge Selarón. He lived in an artists’ house in the district of SANTA TERESA and in 1990 , he started renovating the stairs in front of the building. He did this by repairing crooked or broken steps with pieces of blue, green and yellow tiles. Soon, his hobby became a passion and over the next 23 years, Selarón had covered the whole 125-metre long flight of stairs with intricate pieces of tile, ceramic and mirror. He was given the materials by visitors from all over the globe. More than 2,000 pieces from 60 countries are incorporated into the stairs. Now that's teamwork! SISTERMAG 54 | 11 / 2019
y o s e m i t e
ai t s -
You can expect a mixture of mountaineering and step climbing if you want to reach the Half Dome summit at Yosemite National Park in California. The whole tour is about 25 kilometres long, with altitudes of almost 1,500 meters. The SISTER-MAG.COM
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highlight, however, is the last 120 metres. Holes drilled into the rock support the metal
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steps. Adventurous hikers can also hold onto two thick steel ropes for support. And these are an urgent necessity because the climb is up to 45 degrees steep. As the number of stairclimbing tourists continued to increase the park officials
decided to limit the number of visitors in 2011. Today, you need a permit to hike up the HALF DOME . If you don’t have one, a fine of up to 5,000 US dollars or six months in jail is a sure way to ruin your day.
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duisburg W A L K - O N R O L L E R C O A S T E R
One of the most spectacular flights of stairs in Germany is in Duisburg – and it’s completely useless. SISTER-MAG.COM
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At the top, you will have reached a height of 13 meters. However, after accomplishing its 220 steps, you arrive at exactly the same spot where you left.
TIGER AND TURTLE – Magic
Mountain, as the construction is called, was created in 2010 by the artist couple HEIKE MUTTER and ULRICH GENTH and looks just like a roller coaster. It even has an integrated loop which, for obvious gravity reasons, is not accessible. Their nighttime illumination makes these infinite stairs even more fantastic by night than by day. SISTERMAG 54 | 11 / 2019
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niesen R U N N I N G U P T H E L O N G E S T S T A I R S I N T H E W O R L D
You have probably never heard of the Niesentreppe (»Niesen stairway«) even though it’s the longest flight of stairs in the world. 3.5 kilometres of stair lead you along the track of the Niesen Funicular and up along Switzerland’s Niesen mountain. SISTER-MAG.COM
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For safety reasons, however, you can only access the stairs in June and if the Niesen-Stairway Run is on the agenda. On that occasion, the funicular traffic is stopped and more than 200 amateur runners aim to conquer the 11,674 steps as fast as they can. The men’s record is close to 56 minutes, the women’s, a little over 67 minutes. If you enjoy a sporting challenge then the next NIESEN STAIRWAY RUN takes place on June 13th 2020.
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Stairway to Heaven
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The staircase is almost as old as humankind, helping us bridge vertical distances. From ancient times till today it has gained a powerful cultural symbolism, which extends beyond its simple functionality.
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C O LOS S E UM
It is a religious emblem, a status symbol or – like in the film Joker (2019) – even a trigger for a global internet hype. In our little cultural history of the staircase, we will show you how its meanings changed over the course of the centuries. ANCIENT TIMES: H E AV E N & E A R T H
The idea to bridge vertical distances with steps dates to the early Stone Age. Wood trunk stairs, i.e. steps carved into tree trunks, helped humans from earliest times to climb certain heights. As an aesthetic design element, staircases were first used in 10000 BC in Göbekli Tepe, a prehistoric site in Turkey, with its famous tiered temple towers. Such socalled siggurats came to be a SISTER-MAG.COM
popular form of architecture at the time. According to recent findings, the biblical Tower of Babel used such architecture. The towers contained a temple, which was only accessible through a steep staircase. From then on, the staircase developed into a symbol of the link between heaven and earth, as a topographical access to the transcendent and infinity.
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DELPH I
MAYA PYRAMIDE
SY M B O L I S M O F T H E S TA I R S
M AYA PYRAMIDE
The steep and seemingly skywards protruding steps of the Maya pyramid in Chichén Itzá (Mexico) testify to this powerful symbolism. Walking upstairs was regarded — in a metaphorical sense — as an ascent or a processional way. It is also social, economic and political differences that could be symbolised by steps. The staircase was no longer just a functional object, but a dynamic sign system, whose meaning changed over the course of time. Stairs became an integral part of daily cityscapes during antiquity.
Due to their symbolism they were mainly used for sacred and representative buildings. Impressive constructions like the theatre of Delphi or the Colosseum in Rome were characterised by their countless steps. The staircases were not only used as pathways, but also as seats for the audience. Such a popular structure can still be found in our football stadiums or concert arenas today. The symbol of the staircase as a path to heaven is also still rooted in our popular culture, as the song »Stairway to Heaven« by Led Zeppelin shows.
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T H E M I D D L E AG E S : F U N CT I O N
During the Middle Ages, it was the practical purpose of the staircase to bridge heights that was of importance. For merchant’s houses became more and more popular with multiple stories, where warehouses were situated in the attic. The staircase was therefore essential to transport goods upstairs. In order to correspond to new requirements, the form of the staircase underwent some changes. Spiral staircases enjoyed great popularity, especially in round castle towers. Due to its curved SISTER-MAG.COM
construction, fire could not spread as quickly in the stairway. Furthermore, it gave the lord of the castle a significant advantage in close combat. During the middle ages, spiral staircases were curved in a clock-wise direction, so that the intruder adversary could not strike his sword as well as the lord of the castle from above.
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BAROQUE & MODERN E R A : R E P R E S E N TAT I O N
Whereas the Middle Ages appreciated the staircase’s functionality, its powerful symbolism became important in Baroque times. It was used as a decorative and representative element in castles and public buildings. It was supposed to create a visual of the social order. The more pompous and opulent the staircase, the higher the social rank of its owner. An impressive example is Balthasar Neumann’s staircase at the Würzburg Residenz. The ceiling is covered in a fresco by Venetian artist Giambattista Tiepolo, which was the biggest fresco to have ever been painted in 1753. For the middle classes and merchants, the staircase turned into an economic status symbol during the 17th century: The Netherlands, for instance, introduced a stairs tax, which had to be paid according
to the number of steps in front of one’s entrance door. Rich merchants therefore built houses with extra high staircases, in order to demonstrate their wealth. The staircase became an object of self-fashioning for the wealthy. According to American sociologist Thorstein Veblen, such a »conspicuous consumption« is a phenomenon, which shows how people define themselves in relationship to their consumer goods. How the simple invention of the staircase was changed to meet the requirements of their time, can also be seen with respect to the staircases of the 20th century. The Guggenheim Museum in New York by Frank Lloyd Wright is radically innovative: Instead of stories, a ramp gallery extends from the ground to the top in
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a continuous spiral. Its otherworldliness is alluded to in pop culture: with the museum being shown as a film setting in the fantasy comedy Men in Black. T H E S TA I R CA S E IN FILM
The staircase has indeed spurred the cinematic imagination: One of the most famous scenes of film history is actually located on a staircase. In Sergej Eisenstein’s Battleship Potemkin (1925) a baby buggy with a young child is rolling down the steps of the Odessa staircase under rifle fire, while a crowd is escaping panic-stricken from the soldiers . Images of chaos with murdering soldiers and bleeding faces are created as a montage. The staircase is shown here as a setting of violence and symbolises the descent into death. In cinema, the staircase is also often shown as a place of encounters. Thus, Kate and Jack meet each other in Titanic (1998) on the steps of the impressive staircase in the dining room. It is also a status symbol referring to the very class differences of both passengers. SISTER-MAG.COM
GU GGEN HEIM M US EUM
Moreover, stairways in films often symbolise the psyche of the protagonists. It is Charles Foster Kane’s megalomania in Citizen Kane (1942) that is mirrored by the oversized staircase in his foyer. Alfred Hitchcock uses the staircase in Vertigo (1958) to demonstrate the eponymous feeling of giddiness.
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ÂťJOKERÂŤ (2019) & T H E B R O N X S TA I R S
J OKE R
One staircase has caused a sensation during the last four weeks: The stairs in the new Joker (2019) adaptation have turned into a cult object and place of pilgrimage. In a film scene, the protagonist Arthur Fleck (Joaquin Phoenix) is dancing down the stairs in full Joker gear and celebrates his transformation to being Joker . The staircase symbolizes here the psyche of the protagonist. It describes his way as an outsider, as the other of bourgeois society, who tries to compensate his marginality with violence. The staircase may also symbolise his descent into the underworld of crime, his pathway to becoming a mad killer. He is staged according to his name joker between tragic hero and comedic prankster. The film scene found thousands of enthusiastic imitators. On Instagram, fans are posting their own dance number on the very steps, where the film was shot in New York, under the Hashtag #jokerstairs. 143
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gerhard richter
»T H E PICA SSO O F T H E 2 1 ST CE N T URY«
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Gerhard richter is one of the most influential modern artists and his works are among the most expensive ever sold. At 29 years old, he left his hometown, Dresden, on an unusual path to success.
Text : Robert Eberhardt
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2015 In 2015 newspapers reported a new record: an abstract work of art by Gerhard Richter sold for 41 million Euros at an auction in London. The piece was expected to fetch around 27 million – not rare for an icon of modern art.
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Back in November of 2018, David Hockney’s »pool painting« was sold for around $90 million USD in New York. Global capitalism accepts few exclusive, universally acknowledged status symbols that are uniquely understood beyond the borders of culture. Iconic works of art by top artists usually make the grade These trophies of modern art aren’t nearly as hard to maintain as a vineyard in Bordeaux or a huge yacht in the port of Monte
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Carlo. Instead, they fit neatly into apartments as symbols of wealth and taste displayed only to one’s inner circle. But how exactly did a man from Saxony enter this realm and become one of the most expensive artists in the world?
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What is it about him? Who is Gerhard Richter?
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his style
Let’s put it this way: Gerhard Richter is many artists, in many decades. Richter adjusted his style and strategies multiple times, pressing the reset button on his style to work on completely different works of art with different materials. He has made sculptures, glassstained windows, and produced remarkable photography. The art audience is familiar with his washed-outblack-and-white photographs, abstract pieces with long stripes of colour, colour grids, and mixed paint media. During his long career, he developed several styles and SISTER-MAG.COM
shaped both the German and international art market after WWII. He did not choose one single characteristic to represent his art (unlike Gßnther Uecker with nails in and as pictures, Georg Baselitz with upsidedown pictures, Klaus Staeck with graphic posters), but instead chose to re-invent himself by getting rid of old skin like a snake and thus fulfilling the postmodern demand for variety and a deconstructed artist. Richter’s biography reads like a prime example of German life in the 21st Century: born during the
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Nazi regime, he matured into an artist during the early years of East German communism and made his escape to the West. He became a leading figure in the effort to rebuild the art world after the Second World War before ultimately shaping it through his own work. In 2015, Richter told the German newspaper ZEIT that he didn’t quite understand how he became one of the most expensive artists in history:
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»Records are reported with increasing frequency, and every time I get frightened – even if it is actually pleasant news. There is something shocking about the sum. As you know, the entire art market is so hopelessly exaggerated. But there is no point in getting angry about it. You just have to embrace that it is incomprehensible, just as Chinese or physics are incomprehensible to me.«
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his life
Richter was born in Dresden in 1932 and grew up in two small towns between the triangle of Germany, Poland, and the Czech Republic. In 1951, he started studying at the Academy of Arts in Dresden. He remained there for a decade to develop his painting skills by working on murals and portraits. He even received some governmentback commissions by the DDR.
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In 1961, he fled East Germany through West Berlin. He burned most of his early paintings before leaving; the public ones were painted over. Between 1961 and 1964 he went back to studying, this time at the Düsseldorf Art Academy. After a stint as an art teacher, he began working as a professor in Düsseldorf in 1971 – a job that he would keep until 1993. In 1964 he
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exhibited some of his first works, which was quickly followed by presentations at prominent galleries and museums across Germany and abroad. Next to painting, he had a blossoming interest in photography. His fame continued to rise and was capped by a major exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in New York to commemorate his 70th birthday in 2002. Today,
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his studio in Cologne oversees all of his work concerning legal matters, publications, and exhibitions. The Gerhard Richter archive in Dresden functions as a historic record of the Richter universe.
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gradient pictures
Several Richter works have a special place in the pictorial memory of art lovers and collectors: the photographs he painted over; the famous colour gradient pictures that came about by pulling a long strip over wet paint; cloud pictures from the 1970s; paintings that look like washed-out photographs like the famous nude on stairs, »Ema«, from 1966; a huge collection of newspaper cutouts, photographs, and sketches turned into the project »Atlas«
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a collection started in the 1960s to give loose pieces of paper a completely new meaning. One of his more controversial pieces was the design of a church window of the Kölner Dom: 106-square-metre surface was to be covered by 11263 squares of 72 colours arranged by chance. The former Cologne cardinal Joachim Meisner wanted a figurative display of religious motifs instead of an abstract piece because abstract pieces were also used in the
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Islamic architecture In 2011, the documentary »Gerhard Richter – Painting« by Corinna Belz came out, winning the German Film Prize for Best Documentary.
Today, Richter’s works can be found in collections around the world. We recommend his exhibition at the Albertinum in Dresden, where a number of his pieces are on permanent display and periodically curated in different ways. What better place than the town he was born and left at 29 to get to know this fascinating artist – the »Picasso of the 21st Century«? 153
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T I L L O N F I L M I S C O O L , W A I T S H O O T I N G O N G L A S S . T H I N K S H O O T I N G Y O U L E A R N A B O U T Y O U I F
W IN DO W S FRO M T H E PA ST
daguerreotype
Illustration: created during "DensityDesign Integrated Course Final Synthesis Studio" at Polytechnic University of Milan, organized by DensityDesign Research Lab in 2015. CC-BY-SA licence. "Susanna Celeste Castelli, DensityDesign Research Lab". CC BY-SA 4.0 https://bit.ly/33i7CTW
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LONG BEFORE FILM
I am in Jena, moving
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backwards through
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time.
DAGUERREOTYPE, A PROCESS IN WHICH LIGHT AND CHEMICALS INTERACT TO PRODUCE IMAGES ON GLASS PLATES. TIME TRAVEL AND A MAN WITH A DEATH WISH LEAD ME TO THE FOUNDING OF M O D E R N P H OTO G R A P H Y.
Not because that’s how it feels to be in Jena (although it does), but because, like every visit to my Opa’s house, I’ve found a box of relics from a country that no longer exists. I’m touched by nostalgia and suspense. It’s Christmas morning in October. Inside the box are rows of glass sheets arranged like After Eights. I pull one of the squares out of the container and hold it against a window. It is a photo of my Oma and Opa on vacation in Czechoslovakia at the apex of their lives. I presume the technology in my hand is long dead. I am reminded of my Oma’s passing, and savour holding in my hand a moment in time that won’t die. I am countless layers deep in yesteryear. I meant what I said about Jena.
I wonder about machinery that created these marvelous little disks. Come to think of it, what are they called? Siri is a nuisance of a distance away, which is all well, actually, since I’m in an analog mood. I put the square back in the box and open a New Yorker. In it there’s a profile of the nature photographer Thomas Joshua Cooper, who treks to dead ends of the earth hauling an ancient camera the weight of a watermelon. SISTER-MAG.COM
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Cooper’s camera is an Agfa contraption from 1898. It looks like a birdhouse with legs. Though he shoots on retrofitted Kodak film, originally the camera was fed glass plates.
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w View from the windo at le Gras
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Photographic plates are to photography what the wheel is to the car
In
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inventor NICÉPHORE NIÉPCE painted sheets of glass and metal with asphalt which, when placed under a paper image and exposed to light, hardened the image onto the glass. He called the process heliography; the Greeks understand it to mean »sunwriting.« Niépce’s heliographic process produced the world’s first permanent photograph, VIEW FROM THE WINDOW AT LE GRAS , on a tin plate. It looks like a work by GERHARD RICHTER .
Starting in 1829, Niépce collaborated with the French painter LOUIS DAGUERRE . Daguerre refined Niépce’s invention with an image-making method that uses mercury fumes to produce a photograph on silver-plated copper sheets. The image-taking happens in the camera obscura, Latin for »DARK CHAMBER.« Niépce died in 1833. In 1839, the daguerreotype process became the global standard for photography. The most remarkable part about the New Yorker profile is Cooper's process. It is more philosophical than technical: he makes only one exposure at each location.
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nicephore niepce
Many of the locations he visited throughout his career required him to balance life and death, often literally. Imagine spending weeks traversing the Arctic’s treacherous sea and ice for one push of a shutter button. It is not until he plays chemist in a dark chamber, back on safe terrain, that the image reveals its personality.
He may shoot on plastic now but he works with the deliberateness demanded by glass. It is the antithesis to digital photography in the iPhone age with its rapid-fire shuttering and 50,000 photos on the camera roll. These days, we’re barely conscious of the things we photograph. Photo-worthiness is no longer determined by asking, »IS THIS INTERESTING?« but, »IS THIS SHAREABLE?« We see life through a screen, press a finger on the glass, and trust In my own dark chamber, my grandpa's in the cloud. attic in which I found the box, I marvel at Cooper's austerity.
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I take more glass plates out of the box and observe the scenes and the people as my Opa would have when he was taking the photos. I recognize some of the figures. Many are strangers. One of them looks like Richter’s Woman Descending Stairs. I take a photo with my iPhone and send it to a friend.
Foto: Museu Frederic Marès Museu Frederic Marès CC BY 3.0 https://bit.ly/2pAvFiy
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B Y
C R I S T O P H E R
S A N T O S
analog touch to your images
5 WAYS T O A DD A N
Text & Photos CRISTOPHER SANTOS
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WITH ANY OLD TECHNOLOGY, WE DISCARD IT OR HIDE IT AWAY, ONLY TO FIND OURSELVES DIGGING FOR THAT OLD WALKMAN, 35MM CAMERA, OR VIDEO GAME CONSOLE 20 YEARS LATER.
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5 WAYS TO ADD AN ANALOG TOUCH TO YOUR IMAGES It makes us nostalgic to use relics of the past, reminiscing about simpler times and telling the current generation »When I was young...« stories. It was such an inconvenience when your favourite CD got too scratched to play, and you had to be careful organizing meeting times and places with friends because cell phones weren’t a thing. You couldn’t just slide into people’s DM’s like today - instead it was your crush’s phone number on your hand, written with a pen in their handwriting that hopefully didn’t rub off of your sweaty palms. The advancement of technology continued to solve practical problems such as these ones. CDs were replaced by mp3s, messaging your friends halfway around the World is now instantaneous, and even robot lawyers are available to help get you out of speeding tickets. The digital age is now in full swing.
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Photography has been an industry greatly affected by technology. We all have cameras now. One is probably within arms reach from you right now in the form of a phone or tablet. Every year they get better and easier to use. Our cameras capture so much detail now that we can see our individual pores, hairs, and the tiniest of wrinkles when we zoom in, and every shot has become a perfect digital recreation of what we see in real life. However, the imperfections in analog photography that were fixed by technology and the digital age were some of the characteristics that made us feel closer to an image, which is why we still use vintage filters and add light leaks and 90s effects to our seemingly perfect images. I have 5 ways you can add an analog touch to your images, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. These are my personal favourites.
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A pps and Post-Processing Filters 1. There are a vast number of apps available for your phone to add an extra layer of feeling to your photos. My personal picks for post-processing images are VSCO, Afterlight, and Snapseed, but there are many new ones always being created that you can use to add dust textures, light leaks, and grain texture. Other apps I’ve really enjoyed have been ones where the analog experience is mimicked, such as Huji Cam, Hipstamatic, and Thirty
Six. With these types of apps, the images you take will already have filters applied to them as you take pictures, and the effect can vary from photo to photo giving you less control over what happens to them. The feeling of using these apps is more like using an analog camera as the end result is always a nice surprise. Even if the image isn’t perfect, its imperfections and randomness somehow make the photo more valuable on a personal level.
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Instax Printers & Instant Film 2. Instax printers have been around for a few years now, and even sisterMAG has one in the office for use during events. You can wirelessly connect your phone to them and print out any image on your to instant film in all its vintage glory, complete with faded colors and retro vibes. Photos printed this way I found is a good balance between digital and analog photography. Edit your photos as much as you like on your phone then print it on instant film. Seeing your photo come to life before your eyes IRL is so satisfying to me. Sometimes I’ll even take a photo of the instant photo with my phone photo app and post the photo of the photo online to my photo feed for friends to see. I also recommend the alternative of going full analog and buying a basic Instax or Polaroid camera for an even better analog experience, complete with a physical shutter button, a viewfinder window that you can actually look through, and no screens or wifi whatsoever!
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Cheap and Old 3.Lenses Flea markets are filled with old lenses waiting to be used again. If you’re able to get an adapter for your interchangeable lens camera, you should be able to find many great old lenses for very cheap at flea markets or online! These lenses are not only likely to have poor optical quality, but may also be very scratched and foggy, which will add a lot of soft and vintage qualities to your photos. If you can’t find an adapter for the lens you want to mount, you are still able to do macro photography and achieve great effects with it. Just remove your current lens from your camera body and turn on your mirrorless camera (or use
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live view on a DSLR), open the lens aperture to the widest setting, and hold the lens in reverse with the front of it against the camera body mount. As you move the lens and camera around, you’ll be able to focus and do some great macro photography. This also works using the lens with a phone camera. (Only do this reverse lens macro photography technique at your own risk. Be careful not to touch or damage your digital camera’s sensor, which may ruin your digital camera completely!)
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Disposable Cameras 4.
Maybe you can't afford a vintage camera, or don't know how to use one. Instax cameras and printers might be too expensive for how you’d use it, and same with old vintage lenses and lens adapters may not be an option. Maybe you don’t have a phone or digital camera at all! (Then you wouldn’t need a digital photo detox anyway so why are you reading this?) Well there are cheaper ways to get a quick taste of that analog honey. Disposable cameras are still readily found in electronic stores and drug marts. When you finish
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the roll of film, just take it back to the store, where there will most likely be a service to develop your film. In a week, you’ll have your images ready and printed onto real photo paper. Along with these photos, you’ll also have your prized film negatives, which we’ll talk about later. Using disposable cameras are great for long term use as well. You don’t need to use the whole roll in one sitting. I find the most enjoyable way of using disposable cameras is to bring it with you in your bag or purse once in a while
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(they’re lighter and smaller than most other analog vintage cameras) and just take a quick photo and put it back into your bag if you’re out. Take images sparingly - one image a day or less. Forget about the camera sometimes. Then later on when you’ve finished your roll of 36 photos months later, get it developed and you’ll have so many forgotten and interesting memories that feel more meaningful than the 100 digital images taken in one night with your camera. If you also have a digital camera, phone camera, or scanner, feel free to take a photo of the photo and enjoy your new age fun with a vintage feel. 169
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Experimenting With Film Negatives 5. The hardest part about developing and making your own pictures (but arguably the most satisfying) is enlarging your negative onto photo paper. You need a lot of equipment, chemicals, and a darkroom with access to water in order to see the magic of your picture come to life. You might be able to find a communal darkroom in your city (in Berlin It's a little more difficult, as the first Google search results for
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»Berlin darkroom« was not what I was expecting), however you can do more than just print film negatives. With a scanner you can scan your film onto the computer and invert the colours in an editing software (<ctrl + i> is the keyboard shortcut in Photoshop). Another option if you don’t have a scanner, is to use my favourite method: a loupe and phone camera. Tape your film negatives to a window or any glass with light coming
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in from the opposite side. Then, with a film loupe or magnifying glass in one hand, and your phone camera in the other, take a picture of the image through the loupe. If thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daylight, the light coming in from outside will expose the negative to your phone. Then edit the photo on your phone or computer and invert the colours, and you now have a digital image from your analog film negative with a very heavy vintage feel. Any colours coming from outside your window will also affect the image. This is my preferred method and also opens up many ways of experimenting and playing with film negatives. For example, find new effects by taping the film negative to a computer screen or a lamp. Feel free to think up new ways to work and play with film negatives and digital media. This will add an authentic touch to your photos that only you can create.
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Humans are physical creatures by nature. With technology and digital perfection refining the way we work with photos, achieving perfect images becomes easier over time, but even though the benefits of using digital and modern devices far exceeds that of its analog counterparts, nothing will take away the human-like imperfections and characteristics of analog photography. There is no need to abandon our modern technology, but by mixing the old with the new, we are able to add a touch to our images that is normally absent from a perfect digital replication, and experience a closer connection to the digital media we create.
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desk to success
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Interview & Text Photos
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Carolin Kralapp Microsoft / Anja Schlichenmaier
Master Blender Angela D'Orazio Angela D’Orazio is a Master Blender at »MACKMYRA« , the first whisky distillery in Sweden… a country that is not traditionally known for making whisky. Together with the Finnish company »Fourkind« and based on »Microsoft Azure«, »Mackmyra« is now launching the world’s first AI-whisky »INTELLIGENS« . We took this as a chance to have a closer look at Angela and the product in our new »Desk to Success« feature. What does her workspace look like? What does a Master Blender do? And how is Angela doing in a field that is still dominated by men? Please introduce yourself to the sisterMAG readers. Who are you and what do you do? I am Angela, a CNO, Chief Nose Officer at Mackmyra whisky and an alchemist who loves what I do, or if you like, I’m a dancing Master Blender, with a black belt in Nia dance. What does a workday usually look like for you? What is your daily business? I’m testing a lot of casks and whisky and blending recipes, both for existing products like Svensk Ek
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and for new limited editions like Vintersol. I’m also planning for the future editions and deciding what kind of cask to fill and mature in. It’s a lot of talking on the phone while driving my car, travelling between Stockholm, the Gravity distillery in Gävle and our warehouse in Bodås Mine. Can you tell us about the whisky distillery, Mackmyra, you are working for? What is special about it? Mackmyra is the first Swedish whisky distilling company. This year we are celebrating 20 years. We make Swedish single malt whisky and gin and our focus is on delivering great new whisky experiences to the world. I’d say the difference is that we are doing it our way, the Swedish way if you like, and we like to create the best tailor-made customer experiences we can, with meetings wherever we are, with the private 30 litre casks programme, Mackmyra Reserve, and all the visits to our satellite warehouses throughout Sweden and Germany. We also do a lot of special Scandinavian finishes like cloudberry and birchwine which is very exciting. What is particularly important in your workspace and what should never be missing? Communication, helping each other and the joy of creating the best whisky experience we can. »Intelligens« by Mackmyra and Fourkind is the world’s first AI whisky. What is AI? What is an AI whisky? How is it made, and how is the production different from the conventional way? AI is a machine learning process applied to whatever you want to use it for. You can, for example, use it to make something new in any field or you can SISTER-MAG.COM
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»Communication, helping each other and the joy of creating the best whisky experience we can.«
use it to augment an already existing process. In the AI Whisky case, we created, together with the Finnish Technology Company Fourkind and Microsoft, a Whisky where the machine learned how to create new blends by learning how we created the old ones. So by giving »it« (the tailormade software for this purpose) all the data from the past — how we made our whiskies before, what the customer reviews have been on all those, all the casks we have used in the past and all the medals we have won for these — the software then processes all these about 100 million times in the two opposite »minds« it has, one for creating and one for criticising, until it thinks it has a good one. Then we get a blend suggestion. We have gotten many recipes or blend suggestions that weren’t of interest, and gave feedback until we received five recipes that we thought were possible to make. Or I did. I supervised this process as I know the casks, I know the blends, I know what works and not. So the phrase »made by AI, supervised by human« actually means just that. I decided on every step, I checked all the blends that came to us, I gave new parameters and I did the test blends. I decided
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website instagram facebook
mackmyra.com @mackmyrawhisky Mackmyra Svensk Whisky
on each cask and on which recipe to use. So to be clear, the AI was used only during the last phase of the whisky making itself â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the blending. All the rest has been done in the same way we have traditionally made it for the 20 years that Mackmyra has been making whisky. What is your job during the manufacturing process? My job is to make new products and to create new blends. To keep the quality control of what we make. To educate and to be the taste or sensory spokesperson of the company. Generally, how is it for you to work as a female Master Blender in a usually male-dominated domain? It is great even though there are not that many of us women yet, but there are more of us now than 15 years ago. So, slowly we are getting there. I think personally I thrive with what I do as I am working in a non-traditional drinks company like Mackmyra â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not the traditional whisky business. And I dance. Which gives me a great balance in life. Which qualities are important to work successfully as a Master Blender? To be curious, to be open, to be willing to work hard, to listen to your intuition and to love to create new stuff. And to have a long and good experience and knowledge of the field you are working in.
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»My job is to make new products and to create new blends. To keep the quality control of what we make. To educate and to be the taste spokesperson of the company.«
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O R S O L Y A & A L E X A N D E R W I T H
after the happy end
FRO M DISTA N CE T O VICIN IT Y
For the November interview in our series ÂťAfter the Happy EndÂŤ we interviewed our author Alex Kords. A few months ago he wrote us that he just relocated to Hungary. Of course this aroused our curiosity and in the interview you will learn more about how Alex met his wife Orsolya in Vienna and why they decided to move to her native Hungary - and how Alex is doing in his new home.
TEXT & IDEA
antonia sutter
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ALEXANDER & O R S O LY A
live in
HUNGARY
What countries are you both from? I am from Germany, my wife is from Hungary. How did you get to know each other? What’s your love story? We met when we both worked for a language school for migrants in Vienna. A lot of teachers worked there, and we might not have attracted each other’s attention if we hadn’t talked to each other at a company Christmas party. From there it didn’t take long until our first date and soon after, we were a couple. When did you know that it’s the real thing? Are you married? Do you have kids? Actually, we knew from the start :) or pretty soon after we became a couple. It just clicked. About one year after we met, we got engaged and three months later, we got married. And now we are the happy parents of two children. How was the wedding? How did you combine both cultures? For our wedding, we both invited our relatives and some friends to Vienna. After the ceremony, we went with our wedding-society
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across the border to Hungary to celebrate in a restaurant there. What were the main points of discussion regarding your parenting? We actually didn’t talk much about parenting. And even today, we almost always have the same opinions about the most important issues. There are some differences in parenting between the two countries but we found some reasonable compromises. From the beginning, it was important for us that our children grow up bilingual.
evaluated the advantages of moving to Hungary: the relatively low prices for houses, the low taxes and duties for freelancers, as well as grandparents who live nearby and take care of the kids every once in a while. Finding a decision was not very difficult after that.
How did you decide which country you want to live in?
Do you want to live in the other country one day?
A long time ago, we decided to stay in Austria because it’s between G e r m a n y and Hungary. But then we
Maybe. You never know what life brings and we’re generally open for new things. But since we don’t want our kids to move too often, we will stay in Hungary for a while.
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Did you know the language before you moved to the country? Hungarian is not really a language you learn in school. And skills in English or French don’t help either. In the almost ten years of our relationship, I acquired a good comprehension of the language. However, speaking it is still very hard for me. But I notice that I have been making good progress since moving to the country. How well did you know the culture?
ABOUT YOU
Alexander
Was it always your dream to move to live permanently in this particular country?
Thanks to my wife and our frequent visits to Hungary, I knew about many cultural aspects before the move. However, I want to buy a book about the fascinating history of Hungary soon because I still don’t know enough about it.
Before I met my wife, I never thought about living in Hungary. Later on, we contemplated about moving to Budapest because I love this city very much. But then we got pregnant and put the issue aside for the time being.
How easy or hard was it for you to build your professional career in the new country?
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In Hungary, I do the same as I did in Austria since I only need my computer and the Internet to work as an editor, translator and proofreader. And my customers don’t care from where I work.
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What do you miss most about your home country? Of course, I miss my family very much, especially because I can’t go to Germany very often. And I miss some dishes from my hometown – especially Thuringian sausage. :)
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them was good enough for us. The price, the condition, the location – there was always a problem. Just before we wanted to give up and started to deal with the thought of spending our lives in Austria, we found the house we now live in. And we are very happy with it.
What was the hardest part of the move? The hardest part was finding a house to move in on time. Renting is not as common in Hungary as it is in Germany or Austria; people rather buy properties here. So my wife started looking for houses for sale on the Internet months before the planned move. We had a certain time pressure because we wanted to send our daughter to a Hungarian school in September 2018. We saw lots of houses but none of
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PARTNER
2019
OCT
s i st e rMAG i s pu bl i s h e d monthly! READ NOW
ALEX Sales
MARKETING & ADMIN
W H AT H A P P E N E D SO FAR »A YEAR OF ART« - this is how the
sisterMAG team hat overwritten the year 2019. In January, we started with an Impressionist painting by GUSTAVE CAILLEBOTTE. From abstraction and sculpture we went to a floral still life by GIOVANNA GARZONI in April and to Vermeer’s famous »GIRL WITH PEARL EARRING« in May. In August, Roy Lichtenstein’s »IN THE CAR« was the title artwork and in September, the BAUHAUS filled a whole issue. Now we are looking forward to our last issue in 2019 with a winterly painting by CLAUDE MONET.
TONI Marketing & Finance
CAROLIN Content Distribution
KEZIA Administration
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OPERATIONS
THEA
SOPHIE Content Management
FRANZISKA
CHRISTINA
Content Management
Content Management
Content Management
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CREATION
Chief Editor & Design
SOPHIA
THE
THERESA Content Management
B E AT R I C E
EVI Fashion
MARIE Design & Creation
ILARIA Design
LALE
Social Media
Video & Design
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IMPRESSUM
SISTERMAG – JOURNAL FOR THE DIGITAL LADY www.sister-mag.com
Chief editor
Theresa Neubauer, Antonia Sutter
Operations
Theresa Baier, Carolin Kralapp, Beatrice Lambardt, Christina Rücker, Sophie Siekmann, Sophia Werner, Franziska Winterling,
Fashion
Eva-Maria Neubauer (Fashion Dir.)
Design
Theresa Neubauer (Art Dir.), Marie Darme, Lale Tütüncübaşı, Ilaria Trombí
Contributing editors (Text)
Robert Eberhardt, Barbara Eichhammer, Alexander Kords, Christian Näthler, Cristopher Santos Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team
Contributing editors (Photo & Video)
Grassi Museum für Angewandte Kunst,, Cris Santons, Anja Schlichenmaier, sisterMAG Team
Translation
Bianca Demsa, Barbara Eichhammer, Ira Häussler, Alexander Kords, Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team
Proof
Bianca Demsa, Amie McCracken, Judith Remke
Published by Carry-On Publishing GmbH, Gustav-Meyer-Allee 25, 13355 Berlin, Germany. Re-use of content is only allowed with written permission of the publisher. There is no liability for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. The Carry-On Publishing GmbH assumes no liability or guarantee for the accuracy, currency and completeness of the information provided. All information is provided without warranty. Contact: mail@sister-mag.com Management
Antonia Sutter, Theresa Neubauer, Alex Sutter
Sales
Alex Sutter (Sales Dir.)
Marketing
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Antonia Sutter (Marketing Dir.)
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N E X T I SS U E M I D D L E OF DECEMBER! FO L LO W U S O N I N S TAG R A M TO D I S C O V E R MORE!
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