Our winner of the sisterMAG 50 cover model competition Ilona
dear sistermag readers, in sisterMAG 53 . We were especially interested in the latest hairstyle trends that are also partially a journey to the past as well as the big natural hair trend. If you don’t know what that is you find all information in the article by Marlen Gruner and our recommendations of Instagrammers and YouTubers worth following.
Which colours symbolise autumn the most for you? This was the question we asked ourselves for sisterMAG 53 . Olga Vladimirovna Rozanova ’s painting »Hairdressing Salon« with its deep, earthy colours set exactly the right tone for our 2019 autumn issue – and it also were the tones of the Russian avantgarde the artist was part of. But do you see a hairdressing salon when you look at the artwork? One of the riddles we discovered along the way was the correct title. We are very proud that we were able to interview the Tretyakov Gallery where the painting is located today about its origin, the background and the artist. One topic in the focus was the (apparently) incorrect translation of the title from Russian. Rozanova supposedly painted a perfume store and not a hairdressing salon. But decide for yourselves. : )
Either way, you find a particular section about hair & scents
Back to the painting, we were especially inspired by the autumnal mustard yellow that also starts to adorn the trees here in Berlin to create several food and DIY articles . Be spirited up by the delicious recipes of Emma Duckworth and Catherine Frawley and do magic in the kitchen or have a look at »We Are Knitters« who revolutionise the world of knitting with their offers. For all actions, sketchbooks are surely the right starting point. In our big sketchbook trend report, we found some inspiring accounts from all over the world and interviewed the makers.
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Of course, we didn’t want to miss out on traveling! In order to get closer to Olga Rozanova, we travelled with Robert Eberhardt to Moscow and St. Petersburg . In his travel diary, he shares his impressions of modern Russia with us. The right footwork is also taken care of. For our shootings in Barcelona and Berlin , we tested the newest autumn models with our partner ara. We wish you all a golden October! Definitely follow our Instagram and subscribe to our newsletter where we regularly post exciting competitions. One of them was our sisterMAG 50 cover model search we found Ilona with. She’s not only a long-time sisterMAG reader but also a wonderful sisterMAG cover model now. Thank you, dear Ilona, for your huge support and the great shooting in Berlin.
& the sisterMAG Team your
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03 EDITORIAL 08 CONTRIBUTORS OF THE ISSUE 10 DOWNLOAD-OVERVIEW 236 IMPRINT EASTERN EUROPE, RUSSIA & THE AVANT-GARDE 14 THE YEAR 1915 When Olga Rozanova painted »The Hairdressing Salon« 22 MOSCOW & ST PETERSBURG For cultural tourists with a thirst for knowledge 38 INTERVIEW With the Tretyakov Gallery 46 THE FIRST RUSSIAN EXHIBITION The russian Avant-Garde presents itself in Western Europe 58 PATTERN FOR THE PEOPLE The female artists of the Russian Avant-Garde 66 VILNIUS Digital Ladies Travel Series 90 TIPS FOR GRILLING IN AUTUMN With the Tefal Optigrill Elite PAGE 174 – EMMA DUCKWORTH'S DESSERTS PAGE 154– ara TABLE 0F CONTENT SISTERMAG#53 PAGE 14 – THE YEAR 1915
PAGE 90 – Tefal OptiGrill Elite PAGE 228 – AFTER THE HAPPY END MUSTARD
THE HISTORIC MONSCHAU MUSTARD MILL Mustard feature
FEASTING TABLE RECIPES By Catherine Frawley
SKETCHBOOKS Take a look behind the Pinterest trend
ARE KNITTERS Start-up Spotlight
GREET THE COLDER MONTHS
MUTED DESSERT PALETTE Recipes by Emma Duckworth HAIR & SCENTS
THE PERM, BABY BANGS... & Pageboy cut are back
SHOW YOUR NATURAL HAIR! Why Afro hair and natural curls are not only accepted but desired
THE NATURAL HAIR MOVEMENT On Instagram & Youtube
DESK TO SUCCESS The modern Salon - What matters?
PSST, PSST, PERFUME Stories from the flacon
AFTER THE HAPPY END - ASHLEY & ANDREAS A real-life look behind the scenes of cross-cultural couples
Robert Eberhardt roberteberhardt.com
Marlen Gruner marlengruner.com
Julia Laukert M.A. julialaukert.com Sophia Schillik sophiaschillik.com
Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
Alex Kords kords.net Amie McCracken amiemccracken.com Judith Remke intext-bremen.de/profil.html
Ira Häussler Alexander Kords kords.net
Christian Naethler @iamvolta
Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
Markus Bongardt studiobongardt.com
Emma Duckworth emmaduckworthbakes.co.uk
Catherine Frawley @catherine_frawley
Claudia Gödke claudiagoedke.com
Jackie Diedam @jackieillustrated Sabina Fenn @sabinafenn
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Maria Loreen Petatz maria-loreen.com Styling
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SECTION 1 SISTER-MAG.COM 12
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EASTERN EUROPE RUSSIA & THE AVANT-GARDE
Text: Elisabeth Stursberg
What was happening in the years in which our main artwork for this issue, Olga Rozanova’s »The Hairdressing Salon« was created? What was in the news, what was occupying people’s minds, and which developments determined daily life, or not? In our series »The Year X« we take a closer look at a year and fill the number with life. All the
SISTER-MAG.COM THE YEAR WHEN OLGA ROZANOVA PAINTED »THE HAIRDRESSING SALON« 1915 14
PUBLIC SPHERE & CONSUMPTION CULTURE I
Since 1 January the sale of alcohol had officially been banned in Iceland. The Icelanders’ voting in favour of this eight years earlier in a referendum (their first ever) had to be seen against the backdrop of a resurgent Europe-wide abstinence movement. But it also
a lively black market, including the occasional prescription of alcohol by doctors. The prohibition was therefore challenged from the beginning, not least because it also led to international trade conflicts, for instance with Spain. It still took decades before beer
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t a k a r a z u ka
While the avant-garde movement revolutionised theatre in Russia, and Europe in general, the musical revue Takarazuka was rapidly gaining fans all over Japan In contrast to traditional Kabuki theatre, it was based on Western plays which were adapted for the Japanese audience and conveyed a distinctly fairy tale feel. Its origins, however, were profane: A railway and department store magnate had founded the theatre in order to get more passengers on his trains. Ever since then, those arriving in Takarazuka station, terminus of the Hankyu line, were greeted by a carefully planned, splendid ambience
including an avenue lined with cherry trees leading towards the theatre. The notoriously strict selection and training of the –exclusively – female performers, skilful marketing and its committed, predominantly female fan base made Takarazuka an
PERFORMING ARTS SISTER-MAG.COM 16
HISTORY & POLITICS I
22 April, near the Flemish city of Ypres, the Germans introduced a new, cruel weapon into the war: poison gas. The fact that Belgium was actually neutral in the First World War did not stop the Germans from literally overrunning large parts of the neighbouring country. The well-known chemist, Fritz Haber, personally supervised the preparations for the
mission, which, from the Germans’ point of view, was successful. Flanders remained the scene of numerous battles, and cities like Ypres later became important places of remembrance. Remnants in the form of numerous dud bombs still have them struggle with the consequences of the war’s horrors today.
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22.04.1915 22.04.1915 22.04.1915 22 .0 4 . 1 9 1 5 91.40.225191.40.22 51
PUBLIC SPHERE & CONSUMPTION CULTURE II
The war began to cause acute food shortages. While all food was now rationed by the state, the situation in rural regions with agriculture tended to be better.
The black market was thriving, with farmers being the main beneficiaries. That the upper class as well as travellers (stunningly, tourism increased again from 1915) enjoyed much better supply,
was causing a great deal of discontent among the majority of the population. People didn’t know that they would soon be facing what later generations will call the »winter of starvation« (1916/17), but the forecasts were grim. It must have seemed like a mockery to read in so-called »war cookbooks« that the use of products such as butter or anchovies was recommended –all the while many depended on stealing coal or food in order not to starve.
ECONOMY & INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS
Meanwhile, international trade was picking up. Compared to 1913, Central and South American countries imported significantly fewer products from Great Britain and France, a gap the USA was all too happy to fill. Countries such as Argentina, Peru, Uruguay and Chile and others were effectively becoming export nations, although their trade with European countries was subject to strong fluctuations. Cuba, which
mainly exported sugar, doubled its exports to Great Britain between 1913 and 1915, while exports to France halved. Cuban exports to the USA (where more than 80 per cent of its imports originated from) were also on the rise and accounted for a volume of 200 million dollars. The world prices for sugar had not yet collapsed.
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Merano, the blossoming oasis of South Tyrol, was an extremely popular destination for relaxation seekers. However, everything changed when Italy declared war on the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the city suddenly found itself on the front line of the Great War
The warring parties lost no time with the construction of necessary infrastructure. The traditional spa city became emblematic of the profoundly changing travel situation in Europe and South Tyrol, like other regions, suffered heavily from the front-line situation. The new pass roads, railway lines and summit paths, however, were to outlast the war by far.
HISTORY & POLITICS II
St. Petersburg, the capital of the Tsarist Empire, built by Tsar Peter I in the 18th century after German models, had been renamed »Petrograd« in August one year before. An act of nationalist selfinsurance, the renaming was intended to illustrate just how much German influence, of any kind, was no longer desired after the German Empire had declared war on Russia. With its changing names, the city of the tsars remained an indicator of the country’s political situation: from 1924 to 1991 it was called »Leningrad«, before regaining its original name after the Soviet Union collapsed.
29. August, Stockholm: Ingrid Bergman was born.
POLITICS & SOCIETY RESEARCH
On 25 November, Albert Einstein finally introduced the general theory of relativity to his peers at the Prussian Academy of Sciences in Berlin. As was often the case, he was able to subsume into just a few, highly abstract mathematical formulas what took him years to come up with. Although his theory contradicted Isaac Newton’s law of gravity, a foundation of classical physics accepted by the majority of his colleagues, Einstein knew that he was right about his theory. Now, it just had to be proven.
The situation of German immigrants in the USA, socalled »German-Americans«, was becoming more difficult as the First World War continued. Referring to the keyword »Hyphenated Americans«, President Roosevelt in a speech on 12 October demonstrated limited understanding – or willingness to tolerate – the immigrants’ embracing of their dual affiliation. In his view, a »good American is an American and nothing else. (...) We only have room for one flag and that is the American flag.«
INGRIDBERGMAN HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 21
TRAVEL FEATURE FOR CULTURAL TOURISTS WITH A THIRST FOR KNOWLEDGE moscow & st petersburg SISTER-MAG.COM 22
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by Robert Eberhardt
Anyone who has spent a weekend in the metropolises of Western Europe will one day be drawn to other worlds – those which seem more alien, perhaps even ominous. Moscow and St Petersburg, with their Starbucks shops and well-known hotel chains certainly don't offer a completely different world of experience. But in times of open borders, having to sort out a visa ahead of your journey already invites a little more tension. Of course, this says nothing of what awaits upon landing.
A warm summer day in 2018
I board an AEROFLOT flight from Hannover to Moscow. The plane carries mainly Russians who work in Western Europe or visit their relatives in Moscow. The suitcases are huge, wrapped in layers of plastic. Many of my fellow travellers wear shirts with glitter; not-rich Russians score them from the supermarket, those with deeper pockets
from Philipp Plein. The plane lands at Sheremetyevo airport. We take a taxi to the city centre through »Oblast Moscow«, an expansive outer district with colourful prefabricated buildings, kitschy shopping centres and enormous car dealerships. The five-lane motorway is congested; it's raining. Everything seems somewhat repellant. It becomes interesting when the first Stalinist apartment blocks appear – KarlMarx-Allee in its original form.
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nin gra dsk aya
Leningradskaya« , a Hilton Hotel, stands out from the rest of the skyline. Like many Stalinist buildings, it features an imposing skyward spire. It looks like a cosmonaut dream, fantastic architecture in the literal sense. What kind of atmosphere it must have been when the majority of
this vast country's population still lived without electricity in medieval conditions, while at the same desiring a better, more equal world. Or was it just a power play, a pretext, from the very beginning? In any case, in 1961 Russia sent Gagarin into space to orbit the earth. Anyone who discovers this distant world must think of such stories. It is still communist, even if capitalism brightened the billboards and brought more »prosperity« to the people.
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Hotel prices are pleasant for tourists, and the exchange rate is favourable for those on a budget. Of course, a short trip is only enough to explore the city centre of the metropolis. English is sufficient for most shops and museums. The other, the deep Russia, remains void of such conveniences. For example, in the impoverished confines of the prefabricated housing estates or the resurrected palaces and manor houses, where a connection to Tsarist times is more visible.
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In Moscow everything is far away. The metro trains take me from one place to the next. The stations are massive and magnificent, decorated with Neo-Baroque, glazed tiles. All decor and every form of jewellery seems eccentric to the uniformly trained European eye – be it the magical church domes as on the famous Basilius Cathedral or the colour of the Kremlin. Here, by the way, is a perfect starting point for a city tour. In Red Square you can move through different eras: the unspoilt, vast Old Russia, the empire of the early tsars before
they moved their residence to St Petersburg at the beginning of the 18th century, Russia in revolution, under communism, and of course Putin's contemporary Russia. On Putin: his face adorns every second cup in the souvenir shops. I see Vladimir on a bear, Vladimir leading a military parade, Vladimir shaking hands with other great men. Some buy it as a gag –knowing full well that for some Russians there is little to laugh at.
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You can also visit the Lenin Mausoleum, a modern ruler's tomb, in the Red Square. On the other side of the square, you can discover a labyrinth of culinary delights: elk or brown bear sausages, real (and expensive) caviar, as well as very tasty, delicately-wrapped pralines – with an imprint of Putin's face. Not far from Red Square there is an avantgarde space with amorphous shapes and birches that looks like the garden of a Daniel Libeskind museum. Something Western was to be displayed at the centre to mark the occasion of the 2018 Football World Cup.
The Russians, like every former inhabitant of the Eastern Bloc, are proud to have copied from the Old West something modern at great expense.
There are many hip restaurants nearby. If you're looking for modern Russian cuisine, you have to be careful. More often than not such a wish lands you in a lounge-y bar-restaurant with loud music and otherwise peculiar taste. Don’t be surprised to see salad with hummus on the menu. The evening calls for Russian opera and ballet. For example, at the Bolshoi Theatre
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A different vibe awaits in St Petersburg. I visited during Christmas. From the airport it is advisable to take a taxi (around 25 euros). You'll be transported comfortably on a wide axis road towards the city centre. In dense snowfall, my taxi driver drives the weathered car across the road without much finesse. What appears to be the Brandenburg Gate suddenly shows face in the fabulous winter scenery – it is the Moscow Triumphal Gate, built between 1834 and 1838. It is here
that the city's grand urban vision, which tried to emulate and topple the capitals of Europe, becomes apparent. The whole city is a winter dream. After a few hours I get used to walking over snow and ice. Needless to say, it requires a little more effort than on cleared ground. Those who don't want to visit big palaces like Peterhof and its parks can reach almost everything in St Petersburg by foot.
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The State Hermitage, one of the most important art museums in the world, boasts a very impressive collection. The entire city centre seems to be a »reconstructed« Central Europe. The tsars had no intention of being outdone by the likes of Paris, Potsdam and Dresden. Peter the Great founded the city in 1703 to give Russia access to the Baltic Sea. Builders came from Germany and the Netherlands. The Russian court became a political and, through its patronage of the arts, also a cultural authority. The beauty of this idea can be seen in many museums. A visit to the General Staff Building of the Hermitage is an absolute must. Here you'll find masterpieces of the 19th century and Classical Modernism on display. Many rooms are almost deserted – a luxury certainly not afforded in the National Gallery or the Louvre.
her mi ta ge
I can recommend the Pushkin Museum for those interested in discovering a fervent Russian poet. In an authentic apartment it presents the short life of the celebrated romantic writer and national poet Alexander Pushkin, who died in a duel in 1837. Not far from here is the Hilton Hotel in an old palace, whose hotel bar invites you to a warming tea
hour. The collection of inlaid malformations and »monsters« in the old art cellar on the Neva is creepy and macabre. The wide river is frozen over in winter. Only a narrow channel reveals the passage of ice-breaking ships. Summer invites a »Venetian« flair as the sun almost never sets on the city's famous white nights.
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A short excursion to the dome of Isaac's Cathedral provides a fantastic panorama. There is another architectural gem nearby: the Embassy for the German Empire, which was designed by the famous architect Peter Behrens and opened in 1912. Countless restaurants beckon for those who are hungry after all the sightseeing. Georgian cuisine is worth a taste. You can find many delicious, down-to-earth dishes at »snack prices«. Even a threecourse dinner in the restaurant of the regal Astoria Hotel costs no more than an evening with a middle-class Italian from Hamburg.
isaac s cathe dral
After dining I roam through the city's nocturnal corners. On the deserted palace square there is already a big, flashing Christmas tree. Even if in the Orthodox Church the feast is not celebrated until January 6th. Two young women ride past on horses and ask if I'd like to jump aboard. I can't find the courage and settle for being snowed in. I continue my journey through this haven for culture tourists. Big city lovers not contented by wandering horses at night should travel to Moscow.
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MASTERPIECES OF RUSSIAN ART FROM 11TH TO 20TH CENTURY »tretyakov
gallery« OLGA VLADIMIROVNA ROZANOVA
THE PERFUME STORE «, 1915, TRETYAKOV GALLERY, MOSCOW
In our art year, we regularly present not only the artwork itself but also the institutions that house it in their collections. There is definitely another important period in art history missing, the »russian avant-garde« which is classified between 1905 and 1934. Moscow and St. Petersberg became important places for artists and brought forth great names. The Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow is in possession of numerous important masterpieces of this time and also our title painting by Olga Vladimirovna Rozanova (1886 – 1918) is located there. In an interview, we want to get to know her and her art a little better.
Who was the artist Olga Vladimirovna Rozanova, which kind of style did she pursue and what is the scope of her work?
OLGA ROZANOVA (18861918) is one of the brightest characters of the RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE . Her associates — Malevich, Stepanova, Mayakovsky, Kruchyonykh — admired her talent. RODCHENKO called her »INGENIOUS MASTER« and Malevitch himself was jealous of her perception of color. Even though Rozanova died young at the age of 32, her artistic style went through many transformations. She
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INTERVIEW: CAROLIN KRALAPP
experimented a lot with new styles before finding her own. Rozanova’s EARLY REALISTIC WORKS (plein air and still life pictures, portraits) were influenced by FAUVISM and FUTURISM and then evolved into ABSTRACT ART . Being a complete individualist in her art, Rozanova, just like many other avant-garde painters, did not limit herself to any particular artistic manner. She thought that artist’s signature styles boost the commercialization of art, while an avant-garde painter, on the contrary, should always welcome changes and seek new ways
of expression. In this regard, Olga Rozanova was a true role model for her associates. After her DEATH in AUTUMN 1918 , a POSTHUMOUS EXHIBITION of her works was held. This was the very first exhibition supported by the government after the Russian Revolution of 1917. Rozanova's heritage is diverse. Alongside with painting, she handcrafted ILLUSTRATIONS for futuristic literature, composed »TRANSRATIONAL« VERSES (»transration« or »zaum« is an experimental poetic language made up the Russian futurists),
wrote manifestos and articles. She
Olga Vladimirovna Rozanova Selfportrait, 1912, Ivanovo Regional Art Museum
created her GEOMETRIC COLLAGES at the same time as Malevich worked on his suprematist compositions, her tsvetopis’ paintings pre-empted the Abstract Expressionism of Mark Rothko by several decades. Rozanova was also keen on DECORATIVE and APPLIED ARTS — she designed fabric patterns, clothes, purses and fans.
During our research there were always a few ambiguities as there are apparently many titles for Rozanova’s work: »Barber Shop«, »Hairdresser«, »The Barbershop«, »The Barber’s Shop«… Can you enlighten us? Which is the right and intended by the artist?
The picture’s title »The Hairdressing Salon« is not authentic. It was given by one of its owners — Nikolai Khardzhiev
or George Costakis. It was never found in Rozanova’s exhibition archive. Therefore, in the catalogue of the Exhibition for Russian contemporary art the work is called »THE PERFUME STORE« . The objects depicted on the painting (a comb, a hair brush, lash extensions or a mascara advertisement, a stocking) most probably refer to a store’s product range than to a salon’s sign. In literature the picture usually has TWO TITLES »The Perfume store» (»The Hairdressing salon«). The picture’s title was OFFICIALLY CHANGED TO »THE PERFUME STORE« during the Tretyakov gallery Attribution Council meeting in 2019
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Kasimir Malevich Black Square, 1915
Can you comment on the history of the title artwork (1915) which is part of your collection?
We don’t know much about Rozanova’s working process. Most of her paintings were specially made for the exhibitions to which she was invited as a participant.
In 1915 , Rozanova created a few paintings (»The Rhythmometer«, »The Kerosene stove«, »The Work desk«, »The Sewing box« and »The Dish cabinet«) similar to the one that we’re reviewing. All
these works are similar in style, they simultaneously combine ABSTRACT FORMS and thoroughly painted REAL LIFE OBJECTS . The critics pointed out the originality of this technique. They opposed the artist’s »tender« and »caring« way of depicting an object to the cubist edges and the futuristic transformations of things. When and how did the Rozanova painting come into the possession of the Tretyakov Gallery?
After Rozanova’s death, all her
paintings were abandoned at her studio. Mostly because her and the works of her contemporaries didn’t have commercial success. Later Rozanova’s works from her personal exhibition in 1919 were sent to the STATE MUSEUMS in different cities. However, »The Perfume store« was not on display that year, the work was later found in a private collection. We do not know how exactly the painting ended up in the NIKOLAI KHARDZHIEV collection (Nikolai Khardzhiev was a Russian writer,
literary and art collector. He possessed an extensive archive and collection of Russian Avantgarde art and literature.). But we can assume that the work was passed on to the collector by Aleksei Kruchyonykh, Nikolai Khardzhiev and Olga Rozanova’s close friend. Creating his unique art collection, GEORGE COSTAKIS , another outstanding collector of Russian Avant-garde, consulted Khardzhiev and bought some paintings from him. When Costakis was leaving the USSR in 1977 , he donated the biggest and the most valuable part of his collection to the Tretyakov Gallery, including Rozanova’s »The Perfume store«. Today it is a part of the permanent exhibition at the NEW TRETYAKOV GALLERY .
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Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow
What are characteristics during the time of the »Russian avantgarde«?
It is impossible to describe the Russian Avant-garde in one or several words, because it was shaped by so many outstanding, bright and unique artists. But one thing we can underline for sure is the way those artists interpreted European (mainly French) artistic practice. Rozanova’s work is a daring ANSWER TO THE FRENCH CUBISTS . She was clearly familiar with early 1910s PICASSO and BRAQUE ’s compositions where COLLAGES and COMPLEX PATTERNS of faceted forms were painted side by side on a white
plain of a canvas. Following the same formula, Rozanova brings naïve elements typical for the FOLK ART into her painting. Besides Rozanova, which artistic positions are also represented in your collection? What is the thematic focus of your collection?
The Tretyakov Gallery is the foremost depository of Russian fine art in the world. It was founded in 1856 by a Russian merchant, patron of art, collector, and philanthropist PAVEL TRETYAKOV . The Gallery’s collection includes icons, sculpture, graphics, applied art and the most significant works
of the Russian artists of the nineteenth century. The gem of the NEW TRETYAKOV GALLERY COLLECTION (Krymsky Val street, Moscow) are the avant-garde works, among which you can find the acknowledged masterpieces of the genre — MALEVICH 's »Black Square« (1915), »Composition VII« by W. KANDINSKY (1913), works by V. Tatlin, M. Larionov, N. Goncharova, L. Popova, A. Exter. A. Rodchenko and other.
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Glass, Mickhail Larionov 1912, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
FIRST TIME BERLIN »the first russian exhibition«
1922 IN WESTERN
Text: CAROLIN KRALAPP
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In art history, the term »AVANT-GARDE« refers to all artistic movements that emerged throughout the 20TH CENTURY . Cubism, expressionism, constructivism, surrealism – to name but a few. The artists of the broadly defined »RUSSIAN AVANTGARDE« comprise a significant part of the canon. Between about 1905 and 1934 , Russian artists, particularly in the metropolises of MOSCOW and ST. PETERSBURG , united their artistic forces in fine arts, literature, music and theatre. Their work drew on Western influences and Eastern traditions.
* Nakov, Andrei: Russische Avantgarde, Weber Verlag, Genf 1984, S. 28.
»Creative work is transformation. It is therefore impossible to be creative by using existing forms.« *
- Viktor Schklowski, 1919
The OCTOBER REVOLUTION of 1917 was an incisive moment in the development of the avant-garde as the Bolsheviks turned discussions around art increasingly political. But this did not detract from the avantgarde movement. Even SOVIET RULE after 1922 was initially unable to stop the art scene from experimenting. On the contrary: it seemed as if it had stimulated creative spirit even more. With STALIN'S ASSUMPTION OF
POWER , however, the avantgardists' artistic aspirations gradually became incompatible with the political demands for functional art, which marked the birth of later »SOCIALIST
The various factions of the Russian avant-garde, despite having different styles, were all united in the belief that art should be integrated into daily life, and the desire to realize one's own ARTISTIC UTOPIA .
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In 1922 , in BERLIN , the comprehensive oeuvre of the RUSSIAN AVANT-GARDE was first made accessible to a larger Western European public. Despite having been celebrated at the time, the exhibition is largely forgotten since. However, its significance is undisputed and the Russians' artistic contribution has become an integral part of modern art history.
Ljubow Sergejewna Popowa, Architectural painting, 1917
OCTO b ER 1922
On the premises of the GALERIE VAN DIEMEN & CO , which was located at UNTER DEN LINDEN 21 *¹ near the Russian Embassy until it was expropriated by the Nazis in 1935, the artists DAVID STERENBERG , D. MARIANOV , NATHAN ALTMANN , NAUM GABO and FRIEDRICH A. LUTZ , the director of the gallery, organized a show with more than 700 WORKS of art by 167 ARTISTS . Proceeds from the commercial exhibition were donated to aid organizations which supported starving people in Russia. The approximately
15,000 VISITORS were treated to a multi-faceted overview of Russian art since 1905 with paintings, graphics, sculptures, architectural models, stage sets and porcelain works.
*¹ Today, here is the ticket office of the Komische Oper Berlin.
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Nathan Altmann, Selfportrait, 1912
- Abstract in the exhibition catalogue, 1922
Grigorij Grigorjewitsch Mjassojedow, Harvest time. Reaper, 1887
»We intend to give a sketch which introduces Europe to the new Russia.
In order to make the development of Russian art understandable, we must characterize whole movements as well as emphasize individual artists« * 2
*² Galerie van Diemen & Co: Erste russische Kunstausstellung, König Verlag, Berlin 1922, S. 10.
A SHORT WALK THROUGH THE EXHIBITION
It began with »PEREDVIZHNIKI« (»Wanderer«) collective, which devoted itself to REALISTIC PAINTINGS and depicted Russian peasant life. Next came the largely unknown representatives of Russian Impressionism, who had little connection with the movement popular throughout the rest of Europe. Delicate and atmospheric landscapes, such as those by KONSTANTIN KOROWIN , found their place here.
The »JACK OF DIAMONDS« group was next to exhibit, showcasing works that were stylistically oriented towards LATE IMPRESSIONISM and CUBISM . Then came the Expressionists, followed by Cubism, which in Russia developed independently from the European movement. Both EXPRESSIONIST and CUBIST approaches belong to the realm of abstract painting and paved the way for art to move increasingly in this direction.
Alexandra Exter, Maenad, 1916
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Konstantin Korowin, Russian Winter
Images of »SUPREMATISM« (from the Old Latin supremus, »The Highest«) return to the essence of SIMPLE GEOMETRIC FORMS whose laws cast diverse new paths and possibilities for the next generation of Russian artists. The painter OLGA VLADIMIROVNA ROZANOVA , who had already died at the time of the exhibition, contributed 14 PIECES – with titles like »Suprematic Decoration«, »Composition« and »Figure« –alongside works by EL LISSITZKY ,
ALEXANDER RODSCHENKO and KASIMIR MALEVICH , who was one of the most renowned artists of the show. WASSILY KANDINSKY , another highly recognized artist, and VLADIMIR TATLIN were also to be seen in this area of the gallery. Tatlin represented the transition to Russian production art.
Kasimir Malevich, Suprematism, 1915
Ljubow Sergejewna Popowa, The pictorial architecture, 1916
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» CONSTRUCTIVISM « is another branch of nonobjective art. It was represented by NAUM GABO 's SCULPTURES , among others. The sculptures’ spatial construction finds shape through diagonally crossed surfaces of a basic form. »CONSTRUCTIVE TORSO« , for example, is a particularly important work and is now a major piece in the Berlinische Galerie. Gabo himself was responsible for the three rooms of the exhibition, in which his own works were also on show. It would not be a stretch to say that Gabo’s works made the show famous. There were also numerous pieces by art schools from farming and proletariat circles, as well
as the Staatsporzellan- und Graviersteinfabrik ( FEDERAL PORCELAIN AND ENGRAVING FACTORY ). The show concluded with the THEATRE DEPARTMENT , which produced sketches, drafts for Russian theatre productions, and posters. The exhibition was ceremoniously opened on OCTOBER 15, 1922 . Its duration was extended until the end of the year. In the SPRING OF 1923 it moved on to the STEDELIJK MUSEUM IN AMSTERDAM
Kārlis Johansons, Room constructions, 1921
- Lajos Kassák, 1922
»In Berlin, one exhibition chases another: Twisted forms and bursting colours. In this colourful confusion the Russians introduced primordial sources of colour and the straight line of purity and power.« *3
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Kassák, Lajos: Zur russischen Ausstellung, in: Berliner Begegnungen. Ausländische Künstler in Berlin 1918-1933, Dietz Verlag, Berlin 1987, S. 78.
for the people
BEGINNING OF THE
Text: Julia Laukert M.A. Illustrations: Anya Perepelkina
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PATTERN FOR THE PEOPLE
At the beginning of the 20th century, artists showed increasing interest in the design and production of clothing. Artists in Europe as well as in revolutionary Russia began to engage individually or collectively with fashion. The reasons were manifold, from personally motivated to practical and necessary. In general, people had small wardrobes in those days. Colour palettes were also very limited. Unusual creations came from workshops, couturiers, the theatre or in art circles. Mass production was on the advance. In Russia, a large number of well-known female artists were engaged in the industrial production of clothing to develop a style for a revolutionary populace.
While female artists in Italy and France were rather outnumbered, their avant-garde colleagues in Russia, such as Nadezhda Lamanova (1861 - 1941) , Aleksandra Ekster (1882 - 1949) , Lyubov Popova (1889 - 1924) and Varvara Stepanova (1894 - 1958) , enjoyed a degree of notoriety. From a cultural point of view, women in the East were actively involved in contributing to the common good and were valued equally as their male counterparts. As important co-creators of a new age, artists were given an important role that encouraged them to dedicate their art to industry. Their devotion, combined with scientifictechnical expertise, enabled them
to outfit a significant number of people. It was a revolutionary time in which tradition and the old ways of doing things were brought into question. The poverty of the people under the monarchy of the tsarist family was no longer tolerated. The revolution influenced, among other things, an art movement that followed the ideals of progress. The birth of constructivism was heralded: an avant-garde movement that demanded non-objective art in favour of utilitarian and industrial aesthetics. This affected all areas of everyday life, including the redefinition of clothing befitting the modern proletariat.
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: Lamanova, Exter, Popowa & Stepanowa
The artist Nadezhda Lamanova presented straight lines and rectangular, uncomplicated cuts. In doing so, she took into account the possibilities of mass production. In The »Constructive Dress« Aleksandra Ekster explains that every object is subject to the laws of material, regardless of whether it is sculpture or tailoring. Ekster set a definitive colour rule: a simple cut requires two colours while a single colour is sufficient for a more complex geometric form. Inspired by their theatre work as stage and costume designers, Lyubov Popova and Varvara
Stepanova also sought solutions for industrially produced clothing. Popova's goal was to create designs that would distinguish the wearer from their surroundings with bold colour and pattern combinations. Their desire to include more fashionable fabrics in their production was not aligned with that of the socialist clothing industry. Clothing was to be produced quickly and easily for a large nation. It should be functional, hygienic and comfortable. Following these guidelines, the constructivist Varvara Stepanova developed three prototypes: Prozodeshda,
clothing was to be produced quickly and easily for a large nation. it should be functional, hygienic and comfortable.
Spetsodeshda, and Sportodeshda (workwear, clothing for special occasions and sportswear). Together with her partner, Alexander Rodchenko (18911956), the Soviet artist created the famous 1925 assembly suit, a jumpsuit that Rodchenko, his friends and Bauhaus teacher László Moholy-Nagy preferred to
wear. It was also Rodchenko who coined the term »artist-engineer« and, through the attire, gave it a tangible appearance. Lamanova, Ekster, Popova, and Stepanova undoubtedly belong under this designation. After all, all four have creativity, technical know-how and a desire for progress in common.
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WITH COMPASS AND RULER
– CONSTRUCTIVIST FABRIC DESIGN
Stepanova's and Popova's clothing designs have a striking character in the style of the revolution. Their fabric details are characterized by geometry, repetition and symmetry – constructivist style elements with a functional aspect and practical for the production of textiles. The designers oriented themselves to the avant-garde form and created eye-catching, colourful fabric patterns. Before that, Russian textile patterns and fabrics were based on old pattern books from France or on traditional floral designs. minimalism, the constructivists' textile designs remain in vogue to this day.
DRESSES FOR ALL!
To the chagrin of Russian artists, their efforts to redesign fashion were ultimately unfulfilled. This was mostly the result of a material shortage. The underdevelopment of the Soviet Union remained after the First World War , the revolutions and the civil war from 1921 to 1927. Only a small part of the clothes and fabrics designed went into serial production. Stepanova, for example, designed 20 textile patterns, of which only 12 were produced. The possibilities for change propagated by the manufactories could only be partly implemented. However,
artists, engineers and fashion designers if they could not work out a solution. So they brought their concepts to the people by publishing their designs in the form of patterns in newspapers. These also contained fabric recommendations. This was an effective strategy considering that most women at that time sewed their own clothes. Conversely, this independent production of clothing achieved an individuality far removed from mass production.
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DIGITAL LADIES TRAVEL
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Digital Ladies Travel sisterMag Travel Series
Lithuania is still a mystery for many European travellers. Travel journalist Sophia Schillik turned Vilnius inside out, explored the best locales for us and fell head over heels in love with the buzzing capital, its vivacious people, the innovative gastronomic and alternative art scenes, the moving history and the beautiful, multi-faceted cityscape.
Text & Photos
I am a child of the South of Europe. Ever since I can remember, the land of lemons, where tartes au citron grow on the trees, draws me in for the summer. But the history and development of north-eastern Europe fascinates me. And so this year's motto is Baltic, instead of Bordeaux or Bologna. I am amazed by the Lithuanian spirit, the vibe of the capital, the historical sites, the cultural facets, the fantastic restaurants and trendy cafés and bars.
The name Vilnius is derived from the Vilnia river, which flows into the Neris river not far from the historical town centre.
Vilnius is beautifully situated in a wooded hilly landscape in south-eastern Lithuania, where the Vilnia river flows into the Neris.
Quality of life
Vilnius ranked 81st out of 231 cities worldwide in a 2018 ranking of cities with the highest quality of life.
Lithuanians love the change of seasons and are very keen to celebrate each quarter’s particular mood. Winters can reach a rather cosy -30°C. The summers, meanwhile, are similar to Central Europe and can see temperatures up to 33°C.
Vilnius is renowned for its Baroque architecture, which is particularly evident in the medieval Old Town.
There are many airlines that serve the airport of Vilnius.
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How to get there
Good morning, wonderful Vilnius
It is worth getting up early and exploring the quiet side of the city in the soft light of the day's first hours. Stroll the streets undisturbed before the crowds begin to form; observe and drift through the city in sublime solitude.
The beautiful Old Town is best explored on foot. With an area of 360 hectares and buildings from many different eras, it is one of the largest and best preserved in Europe. Since 1994 it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site Quaint stucco-adorned houses and lively café terraces stand shoulder to shoulder, stairs lead up to panoramic views, narrow
cobblestone streets to hidden treasures and courtyards or wide avenues to imposing squares. Anything is possible – run along or linger as your heart desires. Vilnius has a very unique vibe and combines the best of two worlds. On the one hand, it is a lively and vibrant metropolis with a young creative community, while on the other it retains its village character and cosy charm. You can feel this magic on every corner in the artists’ quarter of Užupis. It declared independence in 1991 and even penned its own constitution, which can be read in many
different languages. It's a fantastic document, as you’ll see later on in the article. Užupis is a place where everyone can feel free. This is the essence of the republic: freedom Mortality, as the constitution says, is not a duty, by the way. The citizens of Užupis not only have their own constitution, but also their own angel and a talking mermaid. You can learn of her story by looking at the sculpture from a bridge and scanning the QR code with your smartphone. This is the best place to let your mind wander and experience the spirit of the artist's republic. It is a real breeding ground for contemporary ideas and works of art, featuring an open-air gallery with numerous installations, bubbling energy and collaborative projects like the Užupis Incubator – a place that invites dialogue and offers space for creative ideas and modern works to manifest.
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Lithuanians love the outdoors and seek every opportunity to fill their lungs with fresh air. Bernadiny Sodas Park is the city's green lung. Here you can do a few laps or let your soul swing like feet on one of the many park benches. Watch the locals play chess, or enjoy a relaxed walk.
Hang out, read or pose for the (wedding) photo: Lukiškės Square is one of the most popular and also most beautiful squares in the city. Look no further if you're after beauty and tranquility. As is so often the case in Vilnius, there is a shadow lurking: the square used to be a place of execution. You'll notice a monument commemorating the victims of the January Uprising of 1863. Today it is a cheerful place full of wit and recreation right in the city centre, a meeting point for young and old.
Miracles & Legends
In Vilnius people like to share miracles and legends
There are dozens of stories about the 13th century bell tower, which rises above the central cathedral square. Perhaps the most beautiful story is about the bell master Jonas Delamarsas, who loved his wife so much that he melted one of her hairs into each of the bells. It should go without saying that his instruments are the best in the country.
Directly in the square between the cathedral and the bell tower you'll encounter the magical »Stebuklas« tile of wonder. Legend goes that those who stand on it and spin around three times will have their wishes granted.
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Museum of Occupation & Freedom Fights
The capital of Lithuania has a strong and proud history, which is revealed in its buildings, monuments, wide streets and winding alleys. Every corner, every backyard, every stone tells its very own story. Some are loud, some are quiet, some are full of magic. There are stories of love, of melancholy and of pain. For those who are not afraid to take a look into the shadows, a visit to the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights is a must. It is located in the building that the German Gestapo and the Soviet KGB used for the interrogation, torture and
execution of political opponents. It can be difficult to digest, but it is nevertheless an important part of Lithuanian history. A very touching open-air exhibition a few steps in front of the museum displays penciled drawings that show the memory of this dark time from a child's point of view.
Other worthwile museums
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM'S authentic exhibits reflect the Lithuanian culture, history, customs and lifestyles.
THE MO MUSEUM, designed by the famous architect Daniel Libeskind, exhibits more than 4500 works of modern and contemporary Lithuanian fine art from 1960 to the present day.
THE SAMUEL BAK MUSEUM houses works by the JewishLithuanian painter as well as constantly changing exhibitions of other artists.
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SAMUEL BAK MUSEUM
Vilnius is renowned for its magnificent baroque architecture and the Church of St. Peter and Paul (lit. Šv. Petro ir Povilo) is not only one of the most significant churches in the Lithuanian capital, it is also a true masterpiece. It is absolutely worth a peek inside: kept rather simple from the outside, the church boasts a stunning interior, which has been meticulously crafted down to the last detail. The sculptures and stucco work are simply breathtaking.
The Kasimir church, named after the patron saint of Lithuania, is also worth checking out, as is the church of St. Catherine, which was completely renovated after the reestablishment of Lithuania's independence. The Russian Orthodox Church of St. Michael and St. Constantine is also impressive.
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Vilnius enchants with its many vantage points from which fascinating cityscapes open up to the observer – whether a view of the modern city skyline from Tauras Hill or a panoramic view from Gediminas’ Tower, which you should definitely climb. It is not only an important landmark, a unique building with a centuries-
old history, but also houses a small exhibition about the Baltic Way , the legendary 650-kilometre human chain formed by the population of the three Baltic states on August 23, 1989. It stretched from Vilnius to Riga in Latvia, to Tallinn in Estonia, and became a symbol of peaceful protest against Soviet rule.
GEDIMINAS' TOWER SKYLINE FROM TAURAS HILL
Aistis Mickevicius is actually an actor and radio host, but a few years ago he fulfilled his dream of training with the world's best perfumers. He now creates unique perfumes under his own label and can even tailor a perfume specifically for you. FUMparFUM's small showroom is just a few steps away from the bastion of the city wall.
BASTION OF THE VILNIUS CITY WALL
The bastion of the Vilnius city wall is a beautiful sight to behold, especially shortly before sunset on cloudless days. In the evening light, the red roofs and masonry of the former barracks are illuminated alongside the hot-air balloons that sometimes rise from the embankment. If you follow the path and descend into the old town, you will reach the Užupis neighbourhood and the town centre with its modern skyscrapers.
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On Stikliu Street, hot-air balloons hang as lanterns and remind you that in you can actually float over the old town. The trips take place year-round and are a great experience, as Vilnius is one of the few cities in the world where this is possible. On the other bank of the Neris river looms a skyline reminiscent of Frankfurt am Main. If you have time, you can take a long walk along the river and make a detour to the banking and business district.
BRIDGE OVER THE NERIS RIVER
Pretty cafés & cool coffee bars
...are found in Vilnius like sand by the sea. And everywhere the baristas serve fantastic coffee. My favourite place for some relaxed work is the Brew Café At Café Huracan you can enjoy a flat white and vinyl, usually groovy sounds mixed with Balkan folk music. The staff are super nice and it's a great place to people watch. In the summer you can enjoy an iced latte at Kava Tau , recline in one of the lounge chairs and let your gaze wander. Last but not least: Elska Coffee . Not only is the coffee delicious here, but there are also delectable small dishes on offer (vegan-friendly).
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Whether just eggs benedict at Assorti or your weekly roundup of local sausages, various cheese specialities, seasonal fruits and vegetables, a visit to the market hall Halės turgus is a must for foodies. It's not just about the merchants inside. Locals outside the hall offer fruits and other wonders from their bountiful land. A truly authentic experience. A few corners further along you'll find the Moss Café , which is all style and all-day brunch. The charmingly designed retreat is a very great address for delicious breakfast specialities and small dishes, from pancakes and bagels to omelettes. The cafe also serves up daily specials such as hummus with nuts and parsley oil. The young owner hasn't just expressed herself with the menu but also in the interior design to create a stylish room that could easily be at home in New York City.
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Meat is your vegetable? Most of Lithuania's traditional cuisine revolves around hearty dishes Among the most popular are cepelinai – potato dumplings stuffed with minced meat or quark – but there are also vegetarian options such as saltibarsciai, a cold beetroot soup with egg. Upscale gastronomy plays with these traditions and incorporates them into its modern interpretations. Hot tip: Brasserie 14Horses is close to »Rotušės aikštė« (=Town Hall Square).
The bistro also includes the Hotel PACAI , a bar and the award-winning fine dining restaurant Nineteen18 , where chef Matas Paulinas pays homage to the culinary heritage of his homeland with incomparably creative microseasonal cuisine. Most of the produce comes from the restaurant's own farm and the surrounding countryside. A feast for all senses!
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Steaks & Seafood
The best steaks in town are at Bon Chop . Here you'll find premium cuts from all over the world served in a stylish setting on two floors. Selfish , which is primarily focused on seafood, is another hot spot worthy of your tastebuds. You should definitely make a reservation as both restaurants can be at capacity every day of the week.
Vilnius's top restaurant delights with a firework of ideas and creations which, despite their craftsmanship, seem so natural and casual that one feels at home despite the fine dining atmosphere. Chef Martynas Praškevičiu and his team use Mother Earth's seasonal bounty to serve culinary marvels of enchanting simplicity, combining fresh, sustainable and local products accompanied by select and natural wines. All this, by the way, at incredibly fair prices. A real gem and a paradise for gourmets .
One place, many tastes: The Downtown Food Hall is a perfect place to go for a big or small lunch, afternoon snack or dinner. It offers everything from sushi to falafel, Greek specialities, peri peri chicken, baos and burgers. In short: Everything a fast foodie desires. With 14 food stalls, I'm convinced there's something for every taste. Oh, and there's also a cinema should that strike your fancy.
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Lithuanians love secondhand, so it's no surprise that vintage boutiques have been sprouting like mushrooms in Vilnius. The De'Žavu , situated in the shadow of St. Catherine's Church, has a particularly beautiful selection for Fair Fashion enthusiasts as well as for fashion-conscious gentlemen. Each piece tells its own personal story, looking for someone to write the next chapter. Fashion that is personal and not anonymous.
Užupis and Stikliu Street offer an exciting selection of fashion and accessories by Lithuanian designers, from the unusual and slanted to simple and wearable. Fresh talents bring their interpretation of Lithuanian fashion to the table. One of the most exciting stores is LOCALS. LT , a collection of local creatives with a standout assortment. If you are looking for Lithuanian Haute Couture, you might find what you are looking for at Odminiųstraße, which is home to the renowned designer Juozas Statkevicius's extravagant collections. At Giedrius you'll find pieces made from Lithuanian linen while Mondri satisfies your fix for dreamlike jewellery.
Attention, attention: The probability of succumbing to a minor shopping addiction in Raštinė borders on very high. The cute stationery shop has pretty much everything print and paper-lovers could possibly fawn over. Don't be surprised if the selection of Post-its, notebooks, and indie magazines leaves you weak. Oh, and did I mention the vegan cakes?
A florist and a barista met... and founded Vilnius's first (and so far only) flower shop café . The shop is heaven on earth for flower lovers and coffee junkies and is worth a visit even just to take a peek. By the way, flowers and coffee are proven to promote the release of serotonin, aka the happiness hormone.
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GÉLÉS IR KAVAFLOWER SHOP & CAFÉ
Lithuanians have not only a soft spot for baroque, but also for murals It is precisely this contrast that makes the cityscape so unique. The Vilnius Street Art Festival regularly attracts talented artists from all over the world. Perhaps the most impressive graffiti can be found just opposite the large market hall and comes at the hands of the duo Os Gemeos from São Paulo –it is a tribute to their Lithuanian grandfather. Just as well known is a mural on Kauno Street by the Polish duo Sepe & Chazme.
Vilnius Soviet-Themed Walking Tour
Vilnius has developed rapidly, boasts a beautiful cityscape and is home to a population proud of its struggle for freedom and independence. Only here and there do isolated relics from the Soviet era tell of a turbulent past. In a privately guided tour you can trace these times and explore the more recent history of the country on an expedition of a somewhat different kind. It leads to buildings from the time of Soviet occupation and highlights the divides which still line the urban canvas.
RELICTS FROM THE SOVIETIC ERA
17. OS GEMEOS, PYLIMO G.60
The architect of the Centre for Contemporary Art , Vytautas Čekanauskas, dedicated this courtyard – an open-air park – to the spatial art of sculptors from all over the world. The architectural ensemble itself is worth a visit, as are the exhibits. The sculptures of Antanas Gerlikas, Donatas Jankauskas, Žilvinas Landzbergas, Mindaugas Navakas and Pakui Hardware are currently exhibited there. Vilnius has always been
considered one of the most liberal cities in Europe, offering protection to many persecuted Jews throughout its history. As the »Jerusalem of the North«, Vilnius became the centre of Jewish culture and enlightenment. Around 1900, Vilnius was one of the largest Jewish settlements in the world. The Jewish Culture & Information Centre is an important contact point for the city's Jewish community and provides information about the city's rich Jewish heritage – the beautiful aspects as well as the painful ones. More than 90 per cent of the country's Jewish population was wiped out by the Gestapo between 1941 and 1944.
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we test the tefal optigrill elite
TIMO ROTH CLAUDIA GÖDKE STYLING MARKUS BONGARDT
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We can’t ignore it anymore: The days are getting shorter, the morning air colder and the leaves more colourful – autumn has arrived. And as much as we enjoy strolling through exhibitions or to make ourselves comfortable with a cup of tea – we also miss the grill evenings with friends!
That’s why the newest launch of our partner Tefal , just in time for the IFA in September, came at the right moment: The OptiGrill Elite is the new edition of the popular contact grill Tefal OptiGrill Elite . For meat and grill beginners it’s the perfect companion too because the technology determines the thickness of your barbecue food and set the temperature and cooking time automatically. You just have to choose whether you and your guests want to enjoy it bloody, medium or well-done. That’s it!
On the following pages, we let you know how exactly the Tefal OptiGrill Elite works, what you can prepare on it besides the classic steak and how you – if you opt for a steak after all – choose and buy the best meat. We wish you happy autumn grilling!
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This is what the Tefal OptiGrill Elite can do Recipe
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Steak with hummus und potatoes
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Ingredients Preparation • Roastbeef • Colourful Potato Salad • Parsley Pesto • Humus Grill your roastbeef with the Program - Steak of the OptiGrill Elite . The appliance sets times and temperature automatically. SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 95
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Grilled vegetables on carrot puree
Ingredients Preparation • Roasted carrots • Chive Sauce • Quinoa • Sweet potato puree The carrots turn out best with OptiGrill Elite Program - Potatoes and Carrots . The appliance sets times and temperature automatically. SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 97
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Salmon with zoodles and fresh peas
Ingredients Preparation • Salmon • Zucchini • Cucumber • Green Peas • Buttermilk • Fregola Sarda Prepare the salmon in your OptiGrill Elite with Program - Fish . The appliance sets times and temperature automatically. SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 99
At first sight, the OptiGrill Elite looks like a sandwich maker – and works in a similar way. You just have to put your barbecue food between the two plates, choose the right program and the device does the rest. The OptiGrill Elite has a touchscreen you use to set what you grill and how much you would like to grill it.
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Next to the automatic programs , you can determine the cooking time and the temperature – between 80 and 270°C –in the manual mode.
Do you want to create a proper branding, a grill pattern, on your steak ?
The Grillboost mode gives you this effect with quick roasting and works with both meat and vegetables.
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Especially when there are a lot of people, the adding function is especially practical. You can use it to prepare barbecue food in several rounds , the cooking time is adapted to the higher temperature so that you get consistent results.
In the defrost mode , the OptiGrill Elite automatically includes the additional time into the calculation.
You want to grill frozen ingredients ?
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MUSTARD INSPIRATION Section
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MUSTARD FEATURE the historic monschau mustard mill
THE HISTORIC MONSCHAU MUSTARD MILL
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WHAT IS MUSTARD ANYWAY?
Mustard is a hot spice which is usually processed into a ready-to-use paste made from the seeds of the mustard plant. The yellowflowering, robust weed finds relatives in radish, cress and rapeseed. The mustard seeds ripen in the pods of the plant, which can measure up to a metre in height. Similar to wheat, mustard is harvested, dried and threshed. The extracted seeds are dried again and usually ground to flour on-site. Mustard is a product rich in tradition, beginning as a healing and luxury food in ancient Egypt and antiquity, then a fine ingredient for emperors, kings and popes, and later the spice of the everyman
THE 5TH GENERATION OF MUSTARD PRODUCTION
In Germany, the cultivation of the mustard plant has practically fallen into oblivion. Today, mustard is almost exclusively produced industrially by high-performance machines in large factories. But there are exceptions. Among them is the historic Monschau mustard mill in the Eifel region. In its fifth generation, an almost extinct craft is practiced here. Ruth Breuer, who studied German and sociology, took over the mustard mill from her father, Guido. She still produces mustard in the same way as her
great-great-grandfather did 130 years ago: with love, patience and deliberation. Heavy millstones made of Eifel basalt (a type of volcanic rock) grind the mash of mustard flour, water, vinegar, sugar and salt in two stages. Such a traditional method is practiced by very few mustard millers today. In particular, cold grinding is decisive for quality and taste. By not heating the mash, the mustard retains its natural sharpness. Its ingredients form an intimate bond. This step of the production makes the mustard creamy and
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ensures depth and fullness of flavour. Breuer gets most of the ground grain from Eastern Europe. For a long time she was looking for someone to grow mustard in Germany. »In the past,« says the mustard expert, »the same was true of coal. But the profession eventually died out.« Her grandfather bought his mustard flour from Canada in the 1950s.
CLEMENS AUGUST EMIL-BRUNO CLEMENS AUGUST GUIDO EMIL RUTH Family Tree SISTER-MAG.COM 110
THE CRADLE OF MUSTARD
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Mustard is one of the oldest and most recognized spices in the world.
Already mentioned in the Bible, its roots go back even further, probably to ancient Egypt. From there, the Romans brought the mustard plant to Central Europe. They were drawn to its seasoning power and later adapted the knowledge of its healing effect from the Greeks. The Greek doctor Pedanius Dioscorides described the health-promoting properties of mustard in the first century A.D. It was recommended for snake bites, the bubonic plague and hysteria, and was considered
to promote blood circulation and digestion as well as boost antiinflammatory properties. The Romans also used it to conserve food and used the grains to season a then very popular drink: unfermented grape juice, called must. »Mustum« (Latin) was also used to mix with the paste from ground mustard flour. A Latin loan word for »mustard« remains to this day: sināpi, a term for »Mostrich«, or »Mostert«. In German, »Senf«, and in French, »Moutarde«.
Through the Romans, mustard found its way across the Alps to Central Europe and onto the menus of clergy and nobility Charlemagne made mustard socially acceptable in Germany and officially endorsed its cultivation. Pope John XXII, who resided in Avignon, appointed his nephew »Grand moutardier du Pape«, the »Pope's Great Mustard-Maker«. Mustard became a fine-tuned staple, that certain something in many a courtly dish. After all, it was not until the 13th century that spicy seasonings such as pepper were
available; the chili pepper found traction in the 15th century. The French, in particular, were crazy about the wonderfully hot yellow paste. In the 13th century, Dijon became the epicentre of French mustard production. In the 14th century, strict quality guidelines turned the city into a mustard metropolis. The Dijon secret was not to produce with vinegar, but with verjus, the juice of unripe grapes. To this day, Dijon mustard is regarded as the epitome of the art of mustard. Meanwhile, it is mostly mass produced in China.
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A RECIPE FROM
WE PRODUCE 800 KILOGRAMS OF MUSTARD HERE EVERY DAY.
The Germans also contributed to the global mustard map. The first German mustard factory was founded in Düsseldorf in 1726 ABB mustard became the benchmark. Ruth Breuer's greatgreat-grandfather, Clemens August, an enterprising Jack of all trades, had his wife, Mathilde, prepare mustard in her home kitchen and brought it to market in 1882 as »Kaisersenf«. Made from light Dutch mustard seed, aromatic herbs, and piquant spices, it was crafted especially for the emperor's birthday. Since then the Breuer family's mustard mill has been rumbling in Monschau.
The exact recipe is still a family secret. The small Monschau company has persistently stood up to competition from big producers. It is both conscious of its tradition and modern. The old water wheel that used to drive the mill still exists in town, opposite the red house where it all began. The transmission belts have long been moved by electricity. Nevertheless, the old mill is still running just as it did at the end of the 19th century. Now at home on the outskirts of Monschau, the historic mustard mill still manages to produce the same quantity as the original recipe every day, about 800 kilograms. The rest is replicated at a 1:1 scale: »We produce about 800 kilograms of mustard here every day,« says Ruth Breuer. If that sounds like a lot, consider that the industry produces 10,000 kilograms per hour. Mass instead of class. And no comparison in taste.
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MUSTARD AS A REMEDY
The healing power of mustard was already harnessed by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks. It is also mentioned in medical writings by the Arabs and later in medieval medicine. It promotes blood circulation and is an herbal antibiotic. For acute infections, coughs, colds and bronchitis, a compression wrap with mustard paste can help to loosen mucus and relieve inflammation.
S tep 1
Cover or lubricate nipples to avoid irritation.
S tep 2
Spread the mustard flour evenly in the middle of the cloth. Wrap the cloth from above and below and wind up. Dip into warm water and wring out. Carefully roll up again and place on breast. Fasten
FOR A MUSTARD WRAP
» 1-2 tablespoons mustard flour
» Linen Cloth, wool cloth or terrycloth
» Vaseline, cotton wool pads, St John's wort oil
with the wool cloth, cover. Leave to absorb for 510 minutes, then remove the wrap.
S tep 3
Carefully rub the skin with a natural skin oil (St John's wort oil, lavender oil or thyme oil) in order to relieve any burning sensation.
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& PHOTOS CATHERINE FRAWLEY
Feasting Table Recipes
MA N G O
H I C K P E A O S A L AD A RTIC H O K E , C O U R G E T T E MI N I S Q U A R E S A S P A R A G U S , S P INAC H , C H O R I Z O HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 119
400G Tins of Chickpeas, drained 1/2 cucumber, cubed
Mango, cubed 10 baby tomatoes, cut in half
TBSP Chipotle sauce Salt & Pepper to taste
handfuls of mixed leaves, rocket, watercress and baby spinach
1. Add the chickpeas, cucumber, mango and tomatoes to a large serving bowl. 2. Add the Chipotle sauce and seasoning, mix until everything is coated. 3. Gently stir in the mixed leaves add a little more seasoning and serve.
CHICKPEA & MANGO CHIPOTLE SALAD
METHOD INGREDIENTS SERVES 4-6
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ARTICHOKE, COURGETTE & GOAT CHEESE DOWNLOAD SISTER-MAG.COM 122
HANDS ON TIME 15 MINS
COOK TIME 25 MINS
1 sheet of puff pastry
1 jar of pesto
1 small courgette, thinly sliced
1 jar of chargrilled artichokes, drained
1 egg beaten Salt & pepper to taste
Fresh basil to garnish, optional
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C / 180°C fan. Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper. Unroll the puff pastry and place on top of the greaseproof paper.
2. Cut the pastry into 12 squares, roll up each edge of each square to form a pastry lip. Spread ½ a tsp. of pesto in the base of each square, followed by two slices of courgette, 1
artichoke slice and crumble over the Feta. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Brush the pastry edges with the beaten egg and place the tray in the oven for 20-25 minutes or until the edges are golden.
4. Transfer to a serving plate, garnish with basil and serve.
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ASPARAGUS, SPINACH, CHORIZO & GOATS CHEESE TART
INGREDIENTS SISTER-MAG.COM 124
1. Pre heat the oven to 220°C / 200°C fan. Grease a loose bottomed tart tin and place onto a baking sheet (just in case it leaks).
HANDS ON TIME 30 MINS 500G block short crust pastry 200G green asparagus, woody ends discarded 75G baby spinach 60G chorizo, diced 4 medium eggs 150ML double cream 150ML skimmed milk 1/4 white onion, finely chopped 60G goats cheese, thinly sliced Salt & pepper to taste Butter to grease the tin METHOD
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2. On a floured surface, roll out the pastry to 7mm thick, roll the pastry over the tin and press into the tin, trim the excess pastry. With a fork, prick the base of the pastry then cover loosely with tin foil. Fill with baking beans or uncooked rice and blind bake for 10 minutes. Remove the foil and beans/rice and bake for another 10 mins.
3. Meanwhile, blanch the asparagus for 1 minute, drain and add the spinach to the asparagus to wilt in the remaining heat. Refresh under cold water.
4. Cook the chorizo in a frying pan for 3-4 minutes or until the juices release, set aside.
5. In a large bowl add the eggs, cream and milk whisk together then add the onions and salt and pepper.
6. Once the pastry is part baked scatter over the spinach, arrange the asparagus, spoon in the chorizo and then pour in the egg, cream and milk mixture. Add the goats cheese slices and season.
7. Bake for 35 minutes or until golden. Allow to cool slightly before removing from the tin, slice and serve.
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TO SET UP A FEASTING
O W TO S E T U P A F E A S T I N G
A feasting table should be a sumptuous visual delight! Be it savoury or sweet or a combination of both! This is more than a buffet, which is created for speed and ease, whereas a feasting table should be decadent, fun and whimsical.
Prepare the table with either a table cloth or runner and then add elements that will create different heights. You almost want the end result to resemble a city scape. Add upturned boxes, upturned bowls, cake stands, stacks of books, bread boards and cut logs to the table. Fill in the gaps with vases of flowers or single stems. Again use different sizes and a different variety of vessels from jam jars, milk bottles to traditional vases to create interest.
A SUMPTUOUS VISUAL DELIGHT!
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CREATE DIFFERENT HEIGHTS!
HOW TO SET UP A FEASTING TABLE
ADDING THE FOOD
Once you have your basic structure you can start adding the food. For this savoury version we added a selection of beautiful breads, a platter of cheeses, meats and dips to the outer edges of the space which complement the main trio of dishes which get the main centre spots on the table.
ADD FRUIT & COLOUR
Add fruit, like generous bunches of grapes to fill any gaps, they also add colour and abundance to your table.
ADD PRACTICAL THINGS
Finally add practical things like a platter of crockery and serving plates. Stand back and check the overall shape of the table does it have a nice flow and feel balanced? Make any tweaks and then announce your table is ready for guests!
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PINTEREST TREND INTERVIEWS sketchbooks
Sourcing & Interviews: BEATRICE LAMBARDT
Sourcing: ILARIA TROMBÍ
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My name is Sofie and I'm 16 years old. I live in Bern (Switzerland) and at the moment I am attending grammar school. I started my account in March 2019 because I wanted to share my Bullet Journal and Handlettering and (hopefully) inspire others.
what kind of sketchbook do you have?
At the moment I’m using a dot grid journal from »Leuchtturm«. But I’m going to change to an »archer&olive« journal in January.
what inspires you?
I get a lot of inspiration from networks like Instagram and Pinterest because there are so many creative posts. The shapes and colours of nature also inspire me a lot. Especially for my Bullet Journal I often choose a theme from nature that fits the current month. Inspiring are also colour combinations in everyday life, for example in architecture or the clothes of people on the street.
do you have any tip for starting a sketchbook?
First of all: don’t let all the impressive posts and bujo accounts overwhelm you! Behind all these amazing artworks is a lot of work and practice! Just give it a try and practice, it’s not that hard. The most important thing is that it makes you happy. And in general I would recommend to use a journal which has thick pages, so that nothing bleeds through no matter what colours you use in your notebook!
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Hi, my name is Louise. I am currently 23 years old and living in the UK spending all of my free time creating visual works!
How do you approach your sketchbook: Are you drawing spontaneously or in a specific method?
My sketchbook can be summed up as a representation of my mood and thoughts through different phases of the year. Sometimes I will pick up a pen and write or draw whatever I naturally think of, whereas in other cases I will have more specific ideas and layouts that I have envisioned. One piece of work can span into a couple of days too so it’s really a mixture of my mood at the time.
What materials do you like the most? Is it sketches, sticked pictures, texts?
I am a fan of using a mixture of absolutely everything! I will always have a focal point such
as collage of images or a handwritten quote but love to embellish and decorate with washi tape or smaller stickers until I’m happy with the final piece. It can be days later and I’ll still want to add something different or cover something up!
do you have a tip for starting a sketchbook?
My main piece of advice is to find your own style that you enjoy and that makes you recognisable to others. I started because I wanted to improve my lettering skills so I loved looking at other pieces of work to find inspiration and
experimenting on scrap pieces of paper myself before I finally found my own groove. My first piece of work versus my current works are so vastly different so don’t be afraid to just draw, it doesn’t have to be perfect!
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My name is Brianna and I am 24 years old. I live in the United States, more specifically Atlanta, Georgia. I am currently a student in college and create art journal spreads and hand-lettered art in my free time. I started art journaling during a time in my life when I was struggling with anxiety and needed an outlet for my emotions. I discovered art journaling on Tumblr and fell in love with it immediately!
What kind of sketchbook do you have?
I use a hardcover Moleskine art sketchbook for my journaling. I prefer this sketchbook because the pages are thick and since I do a lot of pasting, drawing, coloring, etc. I want a journal with pages that won't bleed through. This sketchbook is great and very affordable. You can find the exact one here
For what do you use it?
My art journaling consists of cutting and pasting images, patterns, backgrounds, etc. that I either print or
find in old books or magazines such as National Geographic. I get many of my books with pictures from thrift and antique stores and use them to create my spreads. I love layering different patterns and textures of paper on top on each other to create a sort of mixed media journal spread. I also write in my journal or hand-letter quotes or words that I feel like go along with the theme of the spread. Usually I draw on top of the images or backgrounds I have pasted in my journal. I wouldn't consider myself a great drawer, however I love incorporating line art into my journals because I feel like it gives me freedom because with line art, it doesn't have to be perfect! Usually when I start a journal spread, I don't have a set plan for the result. It's a freeing process to simply create art with no plan or rules. I love art journaling so much because there's no wrong way to do it. It's up to you and what you like or what you have a
vision for. There's no pressure in art journaling because if you do mess up or draw something you don't like, you can cover it up with a new picture or texture. I do this all the time and it's okay! Overall, anyone can art journal and that's what's so amazing about it. What materials do you like the most? Is it sketches, sticked pictures, texts?
Some of my favorite materials for art journaling include Sakura Pigma Micron pens, masking tape, a glue stick, notebook paper, graph paper, letter stencils, a white Sakura Gelly Roll pen, Washi tape, and paint chips.
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laia grau pont
My name is Laia, a 21 student living in Spain.But besides being student, two years ago I started my art project (@laia_journal) that now has become part of myself: a way to spread my art and handmade project through the world.
What kind of sketchbook do you have?
I have a huge collection of sketchbooks and journals that I use depending on the situation. My favourite one is my art journal (my third art journal to be more specific). Is the place where I feel most creative and their pages are full of doodles, paintings, collages and lettering compositions. I also have my personal journal, where I use to write daily thoughts or lessons I have learned every day. I combine the writing with a creative part: a small collage or some pictures that represent my mood or my day. It is so nice to read back how you felt one year ago and how you have changed and what you have learned as a human. And then, I have a small a6 journal that I use exclusively
for my watercolour paintings. This journal is an explosion of colours represented in different ways: fruits, landscapes, flowers, seasons,… What inspires you?
Nature! This is my main source of inspiration and being surrounded by it, it’s what makes me feel creative. I really appreciate what nature gives us for free, without anything in exchange, and it’s so sad to see how we are destroying it. Nature is a paradise, is the clearest example of evolution: each season means new plants, new flowers, new colours, new textures… I mean, it is amazing! And as an artist, there are multiple
ways to represent it, so it gives me total freedom to create.
What materials do you like the most? Is it sketches, sticked pictures, texts?
It is a combination of all of them. I love watercolours for painting. But if I have to create a collage, I always use vintage paper samples, pictures and washi tapes. You can combine them depending on their colours to create an eye-catching composition. I love wooden stamps and stickers as well, they are so useful to add details on your spreads. And… do not never forget a brush pen: our best ally!
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My name is Francesca Eloisa Packing, I'm 18 years old. I am senior high school student. I live in the »Summer Capital« of the Philippines, Baguio City!
what kind of sketchbook do you have?
I have tons of different sketchbooks, but mostly, of no brands. But my favorite sketchbook with a brand that I own, would be the »Limelight Sketchbook«.
when did you start with sketchbooks?
I started with sketchbooks back in around July 2017.
What materials do you like the most? Is it
sketches, sticked pictures, texts?
The materials I like most are magazines, scissors, and glue! I have been collaging for years, and it is my first love. The process of cutting magazines, and pasting them on an empty page to form a new masterpiece is really fulfilling.
I collage on my sketchbooks whenever I feel different kinds of emotions, but mostly when I feel heartaches.
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Name: Reid Schlegel
Occupation: Industrial Designer
Home: Brooklyn NY, USA
When did you start with sketchbooks?
I have kept a sketchbook since elementary school. When I was younger I usually had several art projects going simultaneously but I only sketched in a sketchbook sporadically. I was drawn to my sketchbook when I wanted to dive deep into a topic. I was drawn to nature sketching when I was eight and filled a sketchbook with drawings from the field near my grandparents house. When I was around twelve I was obsessed with skateboarding and I filled several sketchbooks with logos, people skateboarding, ramps I wanted to build, etc… It wasn’t until after college that I really started to take sketching in a sketchbook seriously and made time to sketch in one daily. for what do you use it?
Today I use my sketchbooks as a place to develop ideas that I have floating in my head, refine my sketching process and explore new techniques. As an industrial designer I need to
continuously come up with new ideas and my sketchbook helps me collect and refine concepts that I can draw inspiration from later. As an educator at Parsons School of Design my sketchbook helps me keep my skills sharp and intimately understand my personal style and techniques. This helps me clearly communicate with my students and answer their questions with thoughtful responses. How do you approach your sketchbook: Are you drawing spontaneously or in a specific method? I am usually very consistent with
sketching in my sketchbook but it does become sporadic from time to time. I am currently in a sporadic phase and have been sketching only when I feel really inspired to. I spent the past six years actively honing my tan paper sketching style to maximize efficiency, expand my material library and improve composition and storytelling. After diving so deep for so long, I am currently interested in how to break the rules I made for myself and expand into new styles. I am excited to see what new things I can create with the style I spent so many years honing in my sketchbooks as a foundation.
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s t a r t u p s p o t l i g h t
s t a r t u p s p o t l i g h t
WE ARE KNITTERS
SO PEPITA – WHO ARE YOU AND WHAT DOES AN ENTREPRENEUR DO? WHO ARE YOUR CO-FOUNDERS? HOW DID YOU FIND YOUR FOUNDING TEAM?
My name is Pepita Marín and I am co-founder of »We Are Knitters« (WAK). I founded WAK with Alberto Bravo. Prior to that, we had already worked together in an auditing company in Madrid.
FASHION, DIY HEADQUARTER
MADRID, SPAIN FOUNDERS
PEPITA MARÍN ALBERTO BRAVO @WEAREKNITTERS WE ARE KNITTERS
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE IDEA FOR »WE ARE KNITTERS?« ARE YOU A KNITTER YOURSELF?
We came up with the idea during a trip to New York. Knitting was a huge trend over there and we saw a super cool girl knitting on the subway. In the beginning, knitting was just a pastime, but it soon became a passion of mine. And when we realised that knitting was not yet that popular in Europe, we founded »We Are Knitters«.
HOW MANY PEOPLE IS YOUR TEAM MADE UP OF? IS WAK AN INTERNATIONAL COMPANY? WHERE DID YOU START IT?
We are an international team of around 30
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s t a r t u p s p o t l i g h t
people, all living in Madrid. We started WAK in Spain in 2011. A short while later, we expanded to other European countries. Now, we sell knitting and crochet kits as well as wool and supplies in over 21 countries worldwide. For a year now our own DIY kits have also been available in Japan, Mexico and Australia.
WHAT IS THE USP* OF WE ARE KNITTERS?
Us! »We are Knitters« is an international, fashion forward and environmentally conscious company that offers high quality
and exclusive knitting and crochet kits containing 100 % Peruvian sheep’s wool and cotton. As a fashion company, WAK focuses on the »do it yourself« trend. WAK distinguishes itself from others through its big international online community, which is made up of more than 1 million »knitters«. We share our community’s projects and DIY inspirations on our Instagram profile
I think you need a little bit of everything. We are proud of our strong online community
*USP: Unique Selling Proposition
WHAT DO YOU THINK WAS MISSING IN THE DIY AND CRAFTS COMMUNITY –
WHICH CHANNELS DO YOU MOSTLY USE TO CONNECT WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS AND FOLLOWERS? SOCIAL MEDIA, NEWSLETTER OR RATHER FACE-TO-FACE? HOW DID YOU MANAGE TO GET SO MANY FOLLOWERS ON IG?
with more than 1 million knitters worldwide and currently have more than 470,000 followers on Instagram. Our international customer service responds to questions in all languages and helps our clients in all areas. With our newsletter, we keep our community up to date on trends, the newest collections and upcoming special offers.
Our huge Instagram community is the result of a lively exchange of everything from different inspirations and new products to beautiful photos. It is important to us to always include our community and I think that is what makes us who we are. Customer feedback is extremely important to us so we can grow together. And that is exactly where our high level commitment comes from.
No two days are the same. Nonetheless, to stay on top of things we have a quick so-called stand-up meeting with all departments each morning where we talk about current tasks and challenges. There is no other routine. We travel a lot, for instance to New York, Paris, London and the like. There are also regular team meetings, talks with partners and suppliers as well as decisions that have to be made.
WHAT DOES A DAY IN YOUR WORKING LIFE LOOK LIKE? DO YOU HAVE SPECIAL TEAM RITUALS OR SOMETHING SIMILAR?
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A FEW YEARS AGO, THE TOPICS DIY AND CRAFTING EXPERIENCED A TRUE HYPE, BUT WERE THEN THOUGHT TO BE OVER
WHEN DAWANDA WENT BANKRUPT AND THE GERMAN ETSY OFFICES WERE CLOSED. WHAT IS YOUR VIEW ON THAT? IS CRAFTING STILL A POPULAR TOPIC OR LESS SO RIGHT NOW?
We did not experience that development. On the contrary, we continue to grow and find that DIY, knitting, crocheting and sewing are still trends. We rather consider ourselves as the »yoga of the 21st century«. Putting the phone aside, creating something with one’s own hands, relaxing and slowing down. On top of that, we can keep up with the trend sustainability. Our kits contain 100 % natural wool, knitting needles made out of beech wood and are packaged in reusable paper bags.
WHO DESIGNS YOUR MODELS? HOW MANY NEW MODELS CAN WAK
FOLLOWERS EXPECT EACH MONTH? WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FOR NEW MODELS?
The designs are created by our team here in Madrid and in cooperation with international designers. Life is complicated enough already, so we prefer simple designs. We try to create designs that can be combined with any personal style. New York also has a great influence on the designs. Since we discovered the DIY trend there, NY will always remain a source of inspiration...
t a r t u p s p o t l i g h t
I love the Simone Cardigan: a super comfy cardigan which is easily and quickly made!
WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS FOR THE NEXT 5 YEARS?
We are working on offering more types of yarn and would like to conquer the Asian market so that »We Are Knitters« is truly a global brand.
And we want to go offline ;-)
DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE MODEL ON WAK?
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Follow us on Instagram @sister_mag to see how we knit our own sweater from the wonderful »We Are Knitters« set.
We admit, we are no experts, it may take a little while and some undoing might be involved, but our intentions are great! ;)
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SISTER-MAG.COM PROMO 154
Project Manager SOPHIE SIEKMANN Assistant to the project manager THERESA BAIER Models ALEXANDRA ISABELLE SIEDSCHLAG ANNETTE HÖLDRICH CLAUDIA STEINLEIN SIMONE ADAMS Photography LALE TÜTÜNCÜBAŞI Videos CLAUS KUHLMANN Hair & Make up MARIA LOREEN PETATZ PATRICIA HECK SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 155
MY JOURNEY WITH ARA IN COMFORTABLE SHOES-WITH THE NEW MODELS BY ARA greet the colder months SISTER-MAG.COM PROMO 156
Have you already found the perfect shoes for autumn and winter 2019 / 2020? If not, let us give you a great tip: Our partner ara has once again come out with a special line of autumn and winter shoes that our shoe experts, influencers Annette from @theladyofstyle , Simone from @frau_mone , Alexandra Isabelle from @settebello_hh and Claudia from @glamupyourlifestyle , have been allowed to take for a test walk. We went high in wintery Berlin earlier this year – on the Weekend Club rooftop, we were able to see the entire city from above as the almost wintery winds blew about. But the cold seasons had something else to offer as we then went on an autumnal trip to catch the last rays of sun in Barcelona with Simone. Always with us: comfortable and stylish shoes – easy to combine and convenient companions every step of the way.
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Berlin in all kinds of weather
ISABELLE is a lawyer on maternity leave and is currently enjoying autumn with her young daughter and her husband. The fashionable Hamburg resident wore the ara half-boots »ORLY« and »VICENZA« for her day out in Berlin, two comfortable ara HighSoft models.
ara Boots ORLY
SISTER-MAG.COM PROMO 158
ara Boots VICENZA
WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT ara HIGHSOFT?
The combination of high-quality outer materials and a softly padded insole make for the highly comfortable walking experience of HighSoft.
Thanks to GORE TEX, these shoes are waterprooof and breathable! SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 159
Blogger CLAUDIA knows the newest trends for the upcoming months –and wore the ara half-boots »FLORENZ« und »ROM« to the Berlin rooftop. These models feature araHigh Soft, too.
ara Boots FLORENZ
ara Boots ROM
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»The view over Berlin from this rooftop is so unique! I loved it. Wearing the comfortable ara shoes, I was able to enjoy my time here even more!«
Blogger ANNETTE took over the capital in two ara HighSoft half-boots called »Liverpool«. Born in Oberammergau, she loves her rural life– but looks just as at home in cool Berlin.
»It’s a great experience to be out with other women in Berlin to discover the city! We are all wearing completely different autumnal shoes – everything from sneakers to half-boots and boots can be found.«
Watch the first ara-BerlinVideo HERE
ara Boots LIVERPOOL
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For those who like it sporty, the ara SEAMLESS sneaker »NEW YORK« with ara Dynergy sole is the perfect choice. The fashionable sneakers in black with silver highlights were immediately tried out by Annette. The result? »The sneakers are already comfortable to wear, even though I’m trying them on for the first time and haven’t broken them in yet.«
THE SPECIAL THING ABOUT ara SEAMLESS?
ara SEAMLESS sneakers are made without seams in the front area of the foot. This way, the feet have more space if needed and no pressure points occur. These sneakers are made to accommodate width and offer an extraordinary amount of comfort in widths G and H.
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Through autumn in comfy shoes
As the day went on, it got even colder and rainier – not a problem for our bloggers who did a great job in any weather condition wearing their warm shoes by ara and creating new looks with them.
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Alexandra Isabelle slipped into the wintery ara boots »ASPEN« and »ANCHORAGE« , which both feature GORE TEX® and a cosy warm lining. Thanks to the GORE TEX® –membrane, the shoes are waterproof and breathable. This meant that even in heavy rain, Alex's feet stayed dry! With these practical ara models and a stylish umbrella in tow, Alex and her two colleagues moved on to the Nikolai quarter of Berlin – the historical city centre.
ara Boots ASPEN
ara Boots ANCHORAGE
»It’s been such an experience for us here to discover the city and it’s been a lot of fun!«
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WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT GORE TEX®?
At ara, you can find a wide selection of shoes that feature GORE TEX®. GORE TEX® is famous for offering reliable protection from the weather. It protects from outside wetness and, at the same time, transports perspiration and humidity outside. This is possible due to the unique GORE TEX® membrane. This GORE TEX® membrane has more than 1.4 billion pores per square centimetre. The pores are 20.000 times as small as a drop of water and about 700 times bigger than a molecule of water vapour. Due to this property, perspiration can get out, but water not into the membrane. Read more about GORE TEX® here .
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Claudia wore the ara FUSION4 sneakers »NEW YORK« to the Nikolai quarter, that are not only equipped with a comfortable ara Dynergy Sole, but also feature GORE TEX® .Waterproof comfort in sneakers – great for a long trip through the city or a walk.
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ara Sneaker NEW YORK
WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT ara FUSION4?
The flexible upper moulds to every individual foot and prevents pressure points while providing ideal support. The special Dynergy-outer sole pads the rolling of the foot with its unique lamella structure and thus offers optimal cushioning of every step.
Watch the second ara-BerlinVideo HERE
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Annette slipped into the ara HighSoft sneakers »ROM« , they too feature the special GORE TEX® MEMBRANE . Annette wore them with a casual green coat that matches perfectly with her new shoes. The rainy wind didn’t stand a chance against this weatherproof outfit – and Annette could relax and take in the Nikolai quarter of Berlin.
ABOUT ara HIGHSOFT?
The combination of high-quality outer materials and a softly padded insole make for the highly comfortable walking experience of HighSoft.
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Long walks and chilly temperatures…
What else helps on a grey day in the city? Exactly: bright, mood-enhancing colours! Alex‘ red ara HighSoft half-boots »JACKSON« spread a great mood. The shoes feature an ara light-cell sole – it is light as a feather.
ara Sneaker ROM
ara Boots JACKSON
Click HERE to get to the ara online shop
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Autumn day in Barcelona
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Our »Team Berlin« had great fun in the capital. A couple of months later, we sent blogger SIMONE to Barcelona to test two of the new ara models in the autumnal Spanish sun – double-checking is always best, right? ara shoes are not only made for cold autumn days, they are also the perfect choice for hours spent in the autumnal sun of a golden October as Simone would agree.
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The Frankfurterin tested the ara half-boots »FLORENZ« and »ROM« for us. Simone wore the two ara HighSoft models with casual trousers and a feminine autumn dress. Something else she needed for her sunny autumn trip: matching sunglasses! Simone wasn’t wearing ara HighSoft for the first time, but she was once again blown away by the soft insole: »It is so soft. I can highly recommend it!«
Simone’s view over Barcelona was awesome. She was able to spot the sea – wearing the halfboots »FLORENZ« , she had a secure step despite the incredible heights. After returning to the valley, she strolled through the small alleys of the city wearing the half-boots »ROM«
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»Both half-boots are incredibly comfortable and go with many of my outfits! While the aubergine-coloured halfboots can be combined elegantly with a dress or pants, I like to wear the orange boots with casual trousers«
No matter if you’re spending autumn in cool Germany or the warmer South – the shoe fashion by ara has lots to offer this season. Have fun looking around and shopping all models in store or in the ara online shop
ara Boots FLORENZ
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muted dessert palette
BY EMMA DUCKWORTH
BLUEBERRY MERINGUES ORANGE HONEY CAKE MUTED Dessert Palette APRICOT FRANGIPANE TART Recipes & Photos EMMA DUCKWORTH BAKES HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 175
APRICOT Frangipane Tart
FOR THE FILLING
85g unsalted butter, room temperature 130g granulated sugar 2 eggs (plus one for the egg wash)
1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp almond extract 180g almond meal Pinch of salt 4 apricots, de-stoned & halved 50g blackberries 25g pistachios, chopped 1 tsp maple syrup
FOR THE DOUGH
500g plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 100g icing sugar, sifted 250g butter, cut into small cubes
1 organic lemon, zest
2 l arge eggs, beaten
1 splash milk
On your work surface pour your flour and icing sugar into a mound. Add your cubed butter. TIP: ensure your hands are cold so as not to melt the butter. Using your fingers tips, rub the flour, sugar and butter together
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until it resembles a fine crumbly mixture. Add the lemon zest, eggs and milk and start working it together until you have a ball of dough. Flour your dough and pat it into a flat round. Wrap it in cling film and place in the fridge for half an hour minimum.
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C . For the filling, in a large bowl cream the butter and sugar together with an electric beater on medium speed. Add the eggs and extracts and stir until combined. Add almond meal and salt and stir until combined.
TIME 25 MINUTES COOKING TIME 1 H. & 5 MINS
Remove the dough from the fridge, dust your work surface with flour, using a floured rolling-pin, roll out until it’s just under 1cm thick. Line a 24cm pie tin with the pastry, trimming off any excess round the edges using a sharp knife. Prick the base of the pastry all over with a fork. Line the pastry with baking paper and fill with uncooked rice. Bake in the oven for 15 mins until the pastry is firm. Remove the paper and rice and bake for a further 5 minutes.
Whisk the final egg in a small bowl. Brush the bare baked pastry crust with the egg wash. Pour the filling into the tart shell and spread out evenly. Add the apricots and blackberries on top of the filling, pressing them in slightly. Sprinkle with half the chopped pistachios. Place the tart back in the oven and bake for 45 minutes, until the filling has browned. Remove the tart from the oven and brush the apricots with maple syrup. Sprinkle with remaining pistachios.
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BLUEBERRY MERINGUES Grilled Peach
FOR THE BLUEBERRY SAUCE 200g blueberries 60g sugar ½ lemon, juiced 1 tsp cornflour 60ml water FOR THE MERINGUE 3 egg whites 220g caster sugar 1 tsp lemon juice PREP TIME 25 MINUTES COOKING TIME 2 ½ HOURS SERVING 6
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Place blueberries, sugar, lemon juice, corn flour and water into a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and stir continuously for 5 minutes until the blueberries have popped and the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside for ten minutes until cooled slightly. Pour into a blender and blend until smooth. Pour blueberry sauce into a bowl and set aside to cool until room temperature.
Heat your oven 140°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper and trace 6 circles about 8cm in diameter in pencil leaving space between each circle. Then turn the paper over so that the
300ml whipping cream
2 peaches, cut into 8 segments per peach
1 tbsp olive oil
pencil marks are underneath. Using a stand mixer or handheld electric beaters, in a large bowl beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Whilst beating, add one tablespoon of caster sugar at a time, whisking well between each addition. Once all the sugar is added, continue whisking for 6 minutes. Then add the lemon juice and whisk for another 4 minutes or until the mixture is thick and glossy and the sugar is fully
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incorporated. (When rubbed between finger and thumb the mixture should not feel grainy. If it does continue whisking.)
Dollop large spoonfuls of meringue onto the baking sheets. Then dollop one heaped teaspoon of blueberry sauce onto the meringue mounds. Use a teaspoon to swirl the blueberry sauce into the meringue and then hollow out the middle of each one so that it has slightly higher sides and a flat middle, like a nest.
Place the baking tray in the centre or the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 110°C and bake for 2.5 hours. Then turn the oven off and leave to cool for a minimum of 2 hours. (Do not open the oven door during this whole process, until fully cooled.)
Ten minutes before serving, pour your cream into a bowl and whisk until soft peaks form. Baste the peach segments in olive oil. Heat a grill pan on medium to high heat and then grill the peach segments for a couple of minutes on each side.
To serve, dollop a couple of spoonfuls of whipped cream on each meringue nest. Pour some of the blueberry sauce over the cream, top with 2 or 3 grilled peach segments and fresh blueberries and a couple of mint leaves.
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ORANGE HONEY CAKE topped with Figs
FOR THE FILLING
1 jar Bonne Maman Fig Preserve FOR THE BUTTERCREAM 75g butter 320g powered icing sugar ½ tsp orange extract 1 organic orange, zest 2 tsp orange juice TO SERVE 6 figs, halved or quartered 2 tsp honey Greek style yogurt
FOR THE CAKE
100g honey, plus extra to serve 400g unsalted butter 240g granulated sugar 6 eggs 70g self-raising flour 150g coarse semolina 300g ground almonds 4 tsp orange blossom water Zest 3 organic oranges
Preheat oven to 150°C. Grease and line base and sides of three 7 inch cake tins with baking paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the honey, flour, semolina, HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 187
ground almonds, orange blossom water and orange zest and stir well to combine.
Spoon the mixture equally between the three cake pans. Bake for 25 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the centre. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the pans for ten minutes before turning out onto wire racks and allow to cool completely.
In a large bowl beat butter until light and fluffy. Add the icing sugar, orange extract, orange zest and beat until well combined. Add one tablespoon at a time of orange juice and beat until desired consistency has been reached.
To assemble: Place one layer of cake on a cake plate and spoon half the jar of fig preserve onto the cake layer and spread evenly to the edges. Place the second layer of cake onto the jam and repeat adding the remaining jam. Place the last layer of cake onto the jam. Spoon the buttercream onto the top and using an offset spatula, spread the buttercream over the top of the layer cake. Place the figs on the top and drizzle the honey over the figs. Serve with a dollop of Greek yogurt.
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HAIR & SCENTS Section 3 HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 191
perm, baby bangs & pageboy cut
A LONG, ELEGANT HAIRCUT, CLASSIC BOB OR SLEEK
So 2018. This year, we bring back movement and sassiness to our hair. Because the perm, pageboy cut and other hairstyles that we know from our childhoods are trending (again). But do not fear, they are getting a pretty update.
HARD TO BELIEVE! ARE BACK
TEXT MARLEN GRUNER SISTER-MAG.COM 192
ILLUSTRATIONS SABINA FENN HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 193
The thing about your haircut is: you always want to feel comfortable with it, not have a lot of work, but still look amazing, preferably right after waking up in the morning. Then from time to time, you want a change – depending on the season, your mood or relationship status – and try out one or two hair trends. Oh does the lifestyle world have a goodie for you: hair style revivals with pretty updates.
However, they do not look picture-perfect, but follow the motto of being natural instead: that is to say, they casually fall on or over the shoulders. Although –luckily – the chemical treatment is far gentler on the hair today than it used to be, it still is chemical. So your hair should naturally be strong and healthy in order to withstand the chemical mace.
THE RETURN OF THE PERM
First of all, the perm. In the 1980s, women got constant curls by having their hair chemically altered. It sometimes had a bad reputation for resembling a poodle’s hair, but now, it is making a comeback, directly in line with a current trend: getting some movement back into hair and making it sassy. The trendy, elegant, big waves of the last years give way to little twists.
Here is some background information and tips: the shorter the hair, the smaller the twists are going to be after the alteration. On the other hand, a perm can, in a way, help »tame« very frizzy hair. Another thing to consider is whether or not the hair is (still) coloured because colour can interfere with the process. Here is some advice for a beautiful, natural style: take rollers with different diameters to enhance the natural effect. For this look, as with all current hair styles, it is important to let your hair shine. Because not only should the hair look natural, but also cared for and healthy.
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COMEBACK OF THE BABY BANGS
Let’s move on to bangs. Prada, MiuMiu and other brands have already shown us how they could be worn in 2019 – short, very short! The trend is called baby bangs and promises a clear view, quite different from curtain bangs which partly cover the eyes.
Ultra-short bangs were already spotted on the catwalks last year. This year, short and either blunt or choppy bangs high above the eyebrows have become a trend to look out for. Audrey Hepburn already gave them a sophisticated image in the 1950s. Now, models and actors such as Emma Watson, Angelina Jolie, Audrey Tautou and Christy Turlington are wearing this avant-garde look.
Baby bangs look especially great on oval- and square-shaped faces and work well with a chinor shoulder-length bob, but also with long hair. They also look good in combination with a pixie and curls.
THE REVIVAL OF THE BOWL CUT
Just a small hint for those with a wide forehead: baby bangs decrease its appearance. If you don’t want to take the plunge right away, you can start by trying out bangs that end just above the eyebrows. Talking about taking a plunge...
Those who are brave enough to try out this cut demonstrate female willpower in an often male-dominated world. The hairstyle stands for emancipation like no other. It first popped up in the 1920s as the first short haircut for women. Instead of pinned up or braided hair, short hair and self-confidence were en vogue at that time.
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Those wearing this cut were viewed as brave and strong. Even today, this is a statement cut. And now, it is being revived. But what makes it different and what kind of hair is ideal for it? Straight hair, no question! It is cut in a straight line which makes it look fuller than a bob for instance. The maximum length is in line with the chin, the bangs are long. This is how it was worn by the upper class of Paris in the 1920s after society hairdresser Antoine had created it based on Joan of Arc. In the 15th century, she is said to have had her hair cut like the pageboys of the knights. Today, however, there is much more versatility to the cut. It can for instance end just under the ears – like in the case of singer Beth Ditto. Another variation reaches the clavicle and sometimes, the look is asymmetrical.
with regards to the styling: straight, sleek, curly, anything is possible. Due to its rather sharp edges, this cut especially highlights delicate features and looks especially well on oval-shaped and squareshaped faces. And colour goes well with this look, too – so you can not only make a statement with the hairstyle itself, but also by colouring it platinum blonde and the like.
REBIRTH OF THE PAGEBOY CUT
Somewhat similar to the bowl cut is the pageboy cut. Some may have had trauma concerning this style in their childhood, but now, it is ready to be taken on. Essentially, this look is a bob at chinlength with either blunt or choppy bangs. The hair itself is blow-dried inwards with a round brush.
The current update of this hairstyle can be chin-length or shorter, for instance above the ear. For this statement cut, you can step it up one more notch with colouration and let your hair shine. This style is also mostly made for oval- and square-shaped faces. Well then, ready, set, cut!
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SISTER-MAG.COM BEAUTY WHY AFRO HAIR AND NATURAL CURLS ARE NOT ONLY ACCEPTED BUT DESIRED Show your natural hair! 200
WHY AFRO HAIR AND NATURAL CURLS ARE NOT ONLY ACCEPTED BUT DESIRED TEXT MARLEN GRUNER ILLUSTRATIONS JACKIE DIEDAM HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 201
… that’s all over now. Natural hair is a current topic that attracts more attention than ever before. The motto is to let your hair grow and be as it is.
2019 IS ALL ABOUT BEING NATURAL, NOT ONLY WITH REGARDS TO MAKE-UP, BUT ALSO WITH HAIRSTYLING. Your inner self is being turned inside out. The focus is on visible individuality and living one’s diversity: we show who we are. Not only are freckles, stretch marks and scars allowed, but wanted. They are no longer a flaw, but tell a personal story of the one bearing them. The times when girls with straight hair curled it and the ones with Afro hair straightened it are over (at least for the time being). Having the courage and self-confidence to be oneself and standing by one’s self and one’s appearance is rewarded: individuality and diversity are celebrated in magazines, online and on the street and are even protected by law in the US. The latter especially concerns people with Afro hair because it is far more than an expression of one’s personality, ethnic background, culture and identity – it is a political issue.
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HAIR – BOTH A PERSONAL AND POLITICAL ISSUE
Until recently, it was in no way the norm that people of colour wore their hair as it was. They were or still are discriminated against in day-to-day life: in the business world, for instance, for their supposedly unprofessional looking, frizzy hair. So there were often rules to tame one’s hair by straightening or cutting it – until now. At the beginning of 2019, new anti-discrimination guidelines were released in the state of New York. These guidelines assert the right to have »natural hair, treated or untreated hairstyles such as locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, fades, Afros, and/or the right to keep hair in an uncut or untrimmed state«, thus forbidding any discrimination based on people with Afro hair.
California followed in July by passing the CROWN Act (Create a Respectful and Open Workspace for Natural Hair), which prohibits the discrimination of people with Afro hair and similar hairstyles in the workplace and at school. Large penalties can be levied on people found guilty of violating this act.
Afro hair is also being celebrated outside of the law, for instance online. On Instagram alone, there are millions of posts showing Afro hair with hashtags such as #NaturalHair (22.6 million), #CurlyHair (24.1 million), #NaturalHairJourney (1.7 million) und #CurlyHairDontCare (2.1 million). Celebrities also jump on the bandwagon – or inspire the social media community in return.
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CELEBRITIES SHOW AND CELEBRATE THEIR NATURAL HAIR
Beyoncé for instance went on stage for her legendary »Homecoming« act at Coachella in 2018 showing off a long, curly mane. For the September issue of Vogue the same year, there was no straightening of hair and practically no make-up used. Instead, she sported cornrow braids.
» I want to be myself. I don't want all this hair and all this make-up. I just want to be free,« she said .
Model Naomi Campbell does not hide or bow down to fashion dictates any longer either. In 2018, at the age of 48, she started wearing her natural, frizzy hair instead of realhair wigs or straightening it. What for a long time used to be considered a flaw is now becoming a signature feature.
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LIVING ONE'S INDIVIDUALITY AND DIVERSITY
Peer Tyra Banks shows her natural hair more and more as well. In her TV show America's Next Topmodel, she admitted having worn wigs and hairpieces since her career started in the ’90s. This way, she conformed to the standard ideals of beauty, but now she fights against this discrimination and shows off her natural hair.
In her project »HAIR STORIES« , Spanish photographer and blogger Sol Bela Mele confronts beauty ideas about Afro hairstyles. She was frustrated because hardly any people of colour were represented in the magazines she came into contact with due to her blog. In an interview, she said that as a black woman it felt wrong contributing to preserve a system that black people
weren't a part of. She also criticises that women of colour and their hair played hardly any part in Western ideals of beauty and that it went as far as women bleaching their hair, straightening it or shaving it off in order to live up to these ideals. Sol Bela Mele puts a visual end to this by capturing the natural beauty of people of colour.
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In a sisterMAG »HAIRDRESSING SALON« issue, we obviously want to devote ourselves to all kinds of hair, hair trends and hairstyles and present you topics like NATURAL HAIR that go beyond the purely decorative. We live in political times – racism and discrimination are discussed worldwide in a more open way than ever. So, it’s time to motivate women to be exactly as they are – whether they have frizzy, curly or seemingly imperfect hair.
INSTAGRAM AND YOUTUBE PERSONALITIES
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We introduce you to some women who talk openly on the internet about it and show themselves because we think: Our world is diverse and that’s a good thing!
The beauty and fashion influencer Temi from the US calls herself a »NATURAL HAIR ENTHUSIAST« on her Instagram account, wears her wild mane of curls proudly on her photos and gives helpful styling advice about dealing with Afro hair. She also produces tutorials about this topic for her YouTube channel.
The Natural Hair Content Creator SANDRA NAKAWUNDÉ reaches thousands of people with her hair inspirations on her Instagram and YouTube channels. She shows her splendid head of hair standing wildly from her head, finely curled or braided in long plaits. And she explains to her followers which products she uses for the respective hairstyles.
In Germany, the discussion about identity, culture and society also has become louder and many women exchange their views on this in social networks.
it's worth having a look at these profiles
The model Julia from Berlin has many exciting hairdos and styles to present to you. In an interview with the online platform Vice, she talks about her personal experiences on the topics of natural hair and self-acceptance: »Everybody has an individual hair structure and every hair structure has a creative energy. You have to get to know it to accept it.«
»Black girls are sent home from school because their natural frizzy hair or their braids are said to be inappropriate. When Kylie Jenner walks over the red carpet with fake dreadlocks it’s cool.« The fashion design student Sharonda presents an artistically curated feed on her Instagram account and inspires the community with her fashion and jewellery pictures. Even though her feed doesn’t deal with her hair in the first place, she’s taking a clear position and says: »My culture is not a trend!«
In the world of hair, the YouTuber Regina is the right address for you as well. In her repertoire, you find numerous videos about her Afro hairstyle in which she shares all her tips and tricks with the world. Topics like travelling, beauty and lifestyle find their place here too.
Source HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 211
The modern salon –what matters?
Interview & Text Franziska Winterling Photos Lale Tütüncübasi
AN INTERVIEW THE MODERN SALONWHAT MATTERS? desk to success
Not only at the time of our painting but even today, hair and beauty salons are places where we relax, get together and exchange views – optimally, of course, in a harmonic feel-good atmosphere! We got to the bottom of the question why hairdressers and beauty experts design their salons and institutes the way they do and present to you three very different places in Berlin and their founders.
Please introduce yourselves – who are you and what is special about Schnittstelle? My name is Sascha Boritzki, I am the founder of Schnittstelle. We opened our first salon at Kollwitzplatz in 1998 and have been in this salon in Bergmannstraße for 15 years already.
Where did the idea for Schnittstelle and especially the Aveda Lifestyle Salon come from? Pretty much exactly one year ago, we switched our salon in Kreuzberg completely to Aveda. Above all, this was a question of zeitgeist. For a long time, we were looking for a brand that acts as close as possible to nature and particularly uses fair trade
Industry Hairdressing salon
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Founder Sascha Boritzki and Jeffrey Herget
ingredients. However, it should match our style which is very internationally oriented and thinks beyond the neighbourhood we are in. As a lifestyle salon, we also offer a very large product portfolio of Aveda, our employees are trained regularly and our creative director and our colour director bring in their inspirations and their style.
Are you particularly well-known for certain cuts or colours? Even though we emphasise on a highly trained team, it’s especially important to us to meet our guests at eye level. This always includes a detailed consultation we are particularly wellknown for. We even do that when guests have been coming to us for 20 years because we can never assume that everybody always wants the same haircut. That would be really boring! What’s more, there are special rituals like an Aveda tea or a head or hand massage.
A hairdressing salon as a place for encounters –what does that mean to you? I think that there are few professions that are as personal with strangers as the hairdresser is. Stories are exchanged quickly, ways of life are discussed. All the more, it’s important to deal with it seriously. Everything that’s discussed here stays here! It is often said that hairdressers are therapists too – and after 15 years in the job I can say: It’s true. And the name of our salon »Schnittstelle« (»intersection«) is not by chance: Guests with completely different characters come to us, from DJ to housewife. A lot happens at these encounters and, of course, a new haircut can change people completely too!
»I think that there are few professions that are as personal with strangers as the hairdresser is. Stories are exchanged quickly, ways of life are discussed. All the more, it's important to deal with it seriously.«
SCHNITTSTELLE SCHNITTSTELLE Friseure Bergmannstraße 108 T. 030 322 99 325 HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 215
What was important to you when you set up the salons? Which feeling do you want to create for your clients? My wife and I always do the furnishing of the salons. We want to give a feeling of home. Each of our shops is stylish but, above all, very cosy. The salon should be lived and a certain patina is always a part of that. We keep changing ourselves and this should be mirrored in small changes in the shops. And the furnishing is not only important for our guests: Especially our employees have to feel comfortable to be able to work productively and creatively.
Glowy Beauty Bar
Glowy Beauty Bar
Please introduce yourselves – who are you and what is special about your salon? We are the Glowy Beauty Bar, an upscale beauty salon for eyelash, nail and eyebrow treatment with already two studios in Berlin. The special thing about our salon is the possibility of hosting events like hen parties and company activities in our rooms.
Where did the idea for the Glowy Beauty Bar come from? The desire for independence, my affinity for the beauty industry and the dissatisfaction with the existing beauty salons in Berlin have lead to my wish of founding my own studio. I wanted to create
Interview & Text
Photos Lale Tütüncübasi
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Headquarter Berlin Founders
The company Glowy Cosmetics GmbH was founded by Amelie Hoang but is now run by Amelie Hoang, Tami Hoang & Theresa Schicks.
a stylish go-to studio that combines professional treatments, high-quality products and modern zeitgeist.
What kinds of treatments do you offer? We mainly offer nail, eyelash and eyebrow treatments – in both the studio and the Mobile Beauty Bar for events. Especially popular are the eyelash lifting and the Glowy manicure with shellac.
The salon as a place for encounters – what does that mean to you? It’s important to us to meet our customers at eye level and that there is a friendly atmosphere. Our salon is the perfect place for some me-time and relaxation but at the same time, it’s a great location to come together with friends. If you want more than just a beauty treatment, you can come back to our Pretty Party offer for smaller groups and companies and combine treatments, drinks and food.
Glowy Beauty Bar Winsstraße 59 10405 Berlin +49 30 25763120
»Our salon is the perfect place for some me-time and relaxation but at the same time, it's a great location to come together with friends.«
What was important to you when you set up the Beauty Bar? Which feeling do you want to create for your clients? The furnishing concept is supposed to mirror our brand. »Feel glowy, feel good«, is our principle and the feeling we want to convey to our clients. After visiting us, you should feel pretty and comfortable. We achieve that with the interaction of a modern and cosy furnishing and the procedure and the result of our treatments.
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FROM THE FLACON perfume
Photos: Cris Santos Text: Lea Becker
STORIES FROM THE
Fragrances bring emotions to life. They can be melancholic, provide a sense of security, or refresh the mind. Sometimes they also remind us of special moments from our childhood. A fragrance’s ability to arouse both our smell and the soul, and even to reflect the current zeitgeist, is shown by five new fragrances fresh from the perfumery.
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4711: genuine Cologne water – iconic! I had my first encounter with the Eau de Cologne at the tender age of two.
»FLORAL FIELDS OF IRELAND«
Grandma Anneliese collected the turquoise-labelled fragrances and lovingly draped 20 bottles of different sizes on a crocheted doily atop the bedroom dresser. Fascinated by this arrangement, I pulled on the doily and broke a few bottles. The scent of 4711 stayed in the apartment for weeks. Surely my grandmother also enjoyed 4711's spring-like »FLORAL FIELDS OF IRELAND« with osmanthus blossom, jasmine, Irish mimosa, and citrus notes as spring was her favourite season – just like mine.
100ml, approx. 25 Euro, at flaconi.de
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Putting on perfume offers a small time-out from everyday life. Especially now, on these gloomy autumn days, when such mini moments of happiness are especially welcome. The »Prodigieux Absolue de Parfum« by Nuxe turns out to be a dash of wellness from the bottle.
»PRODIGIEUX ABSOLUE DE PARFUM«
30ml, approx. 70 Euro, at Douglas
The innovative oil texture has a fragrance concentration twice as high as the spray version of the perfume. This means that the absolue is very intense and longlasting. The warm, sensual scent of bittersweet broom honey, exotic tiaré flower, sweet vanilla, and aphrodisiac tonka bean bewitches the senses and accompanies the wearer for many hours. Drop sparingly on pulse points like the wrist, neck, and décolleté to soak in its pleasant warmth. Wonderful! SISTER-MAG.COM 224
»The Future is Female« is a motto that strikes us everywhere these days. The aim is not to declare war on men, but to strengthen women's self-confidence. We should all practice self-love and stand up for ourselves – in family, in relationships, and at work. Why?
» GIRLS CAN SAY ANYTHING «
by Zadig & Voltaire
Because we deserve to be satisfied and to feel good – and to be accepted by others as we are. The new perfume »GIRLS CAN SAY ANYTHING« by Zadig & Voltaire aligns with this philosophy. A powdery fougère scent of lily, peony, tonka bean, and vanilla, combined with masculine notes of fern and musk, this fragrance is a statement of modern womanhood. It gives the wearer a romantic, feminine, and rational, selfconfident exuberance.
30ml, ca. 40 Euro, über Douglas
I like shopping. But I am increasingly plagued by a guilty conscience because I have sometimes paid little attention to sustainability and zero waste. That has changed.
I came across the Clean brand while searching for perfumes with purely natural ingredients and recyclable packaging. Clean uses ingredients which are grown, harvested, and processed according to ecologically defined principles of sustainability. My fragrance tip for autumn: »SKIN« as a soft, warm, cuddly fragrance with citrus notes, vanilla, peony, gourmand notes, fine woods, and Copaiba oil. It’s a perfect antidote to the November blues.
100ml, approx. 100 Euro ludwigbeck.de
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Longing. She comes and goes. Sometimes as light as the wind, sometimes as heavy as lead. The mind must let go of that which the heart still holds. Or is it the other way around? Can you also miss longing?
»OMIYAGE« VON ANNAYAKE
Annayake's »Omiyage« answers this question olfactorily. The flowery scent tells the story of love and its absence: rose blossoms evoke the initial euphoria of being in love. Coconut milk and lilies symbolize the exuberance of emotions. Iris and vanilla trigger the belief that all this is eternal. Woody notes give a feeling of security. »OMIYAGE« satisfies one's longing for love – or ignites it.
100ml, approx. 90 Euro, at Douglas
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FROM DISTANCE TO VICINITY
COUPLES after the happy endashley & andreas
Ashley and Andreas's cross-cultural love story was probably one of the first ones I actively followed. On her blog, Ashley originally from California took her readers on her adventures in the German Black Forest. When the two moved to Berlin, I met them personally. Read more about her life as a wedding photographer between California - Berlin - Black Forest in a new episode of the series »After the Happy End«.
TEXT & IDEA
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ANDREAS & ASHLEY
live in CALIFORNIA, Usa
What countries are you both from?
Ashley is from the US, California to be exact, and Andreas is from the Black Forest in Germany. How did you get to know each other? What’s your love story?
We met while Ashley was working in Germany, at a bar. Andreas caught Ashley’s eye immediately. Later in the evening, Andreas asked Ashley if she wanted to dance with his friend, but she didn’t speak German yet so she signaled to a friend to translate. She made it clear that Ashley would rather dance with him, and we spent the rest of the night chatting. In total transparency, our first date was less than stellar and a little awkward, but fortunately Andreas was persistent and kept asking Ashley out.
When did you know that it’s the real thing? Are you already married? Do you have kids?
Things got serious pretty quickly, and even though we are complete opposites we just get along really well. We got married in 2011 after two years of dating. As far as
children go, we are expecting our first baby in January and are so excited about this new adventure!
How was the wedding – combining the two cultures?
Ashley: We were married by my uncle who conducted the ceremony in English and Andreas’s sister translated everything into German. We tied the knot in Cape Cod, where Ashley’s family has a house, and is as close to halfway between California and Germany as possible. We had a small wedding, just 45 guests, and it was pretty evenly split between German and American guests. It was a whole weekend-long party and by the end everyone was friends, which was our hope.
How did you decide in which country you wanted to live?
We lived in Germany for the first four years of marriage. We moved to Berlin a few months after we got married and loved
it. We hope to move back again someday.
When and why did you decide to move to the other country?
Andreas: We moved to the US three and a half years ago, we knew it would help take our business to the next level (we are wedding photographers) and wanted to be close to Ashley’s family.
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Was it always a dream of yours to permanently live in these countries?
Ashley: I had very little interest in living in Germany, if I am being totally honest. I had lived in Paris for a year after graduating college and absolutely loved it. When my company offered me a job working near Strasbourg, France,
I jumped at the chance. They ended up moving the company across the border to Germany, which I didn’t know until I had already taken the job. It all ended up working out for me.
Andreas: I always dreamed of living in the US, as I fell in love with the country on my visits.
Did you know the languages before you moved there?
Ashley spoke no German before moving to Germany. She was actually supposed to move to France for her job, but they moved the company to Germany instead. Over time, she learned German although doesn’t get enough opportunities to practice now in California. Andreas learned English in school and grew up traveling to Connecticut to visit his sister who lived there. Ashley has definitely taught Andreas some American slang over the years. ;)
How easy or hard was it for you to build your professional career in the new countries?
Ashley started her photography business in Berlin, which is actually a great city to start a new business. For Andreas, moving to the US was not as simple as his German accounting experience does not translate very well. We decided to start to work together on our wedding photography business full time when we moved to the US. Andreas also has a few accounting clients back in Germany.
What did / do you miss most about your home country?
Ashley: Living in Germany sometimes I missed how fast and easy things are accomplished in the US. I love Germany, but the bureaucracy can be exhausting at times. Everything requires paperwork and can take ages to get done. I missed good Mexican food, the ocean, friends and my family. Now I miss lots of things about Germany!
Andreas: I miss the German healthcare system and also the cost of living. America is expensive! I also really miss döner kebab in Berlin. What was the hardest about the move?
It took us so much longer to find a place to live than we expected! We had an amazing apartment in Berlin and the options where we live in California were terrible! Also it is virtually impossible to find a rental that allows dogs. Fortunately we eventually found a great little place — we purchased our first home last year, which has an incredible rose garden in the backyard. We also miss our family and friends back in Germany so much!
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WHAT HAPPENED SO FAR
»A YEAR OF ART« - that's what we called 2019 for our sisterMAG issues. In January, it started with an impressionist painting by GUSTAVE CAILLEBOTTE From abstraction and sculpture we went to a floral still life by GIOVANN GARZONI in April. In July, SANDRO BOTTICELLI gave the title with his painting » VENUS & MARS « , in August ROY LICHTENSTEIN 's »IN THE CAR« and in September with a whole issue about »BAUHAUS« . For the last two issues we look forward to artworks by RICHTER and CEZANNE , before starting in 2020 with a new main theme.
PARTNER 2019 SEP ALEX Vermarktung sisterMAG is published monthly! READ NOW
& ADMIN KEZIA Administration CAROLIN Content Distribution TONI Marketing & Finance SISTER-MAG.COM 234
OPERATIONS THEA Chief Editor & Design SOPHIE Content Management FRANZISKA Content Management CHRISTINA Content Management THERESA Content Management SOPHIA Content Management BEATRICE Social Media ILARIA Design LALE Video & Design MARIE Design & Creation EVI Fashion KREATION HAIRDRESSING SALON-PERFUME STORE SISTERMAG 53 | 10 / 2019 235
SISTERMAG – JOURNAL FOR THE DIGITAL LADY
Ch ief editor Theresa Neubauer, Antonia Sutter
Theresa Baier, Carolin Kralapp, Medea Moir, Christina Rücker, Sophie Siekmann, Sophia Werner, Franziska Winterling,
Fashion Eva-Maria Neubauer (Fashion Dir.)
Design Theresa Neubauer (Art Dir.), Marie Darme, Lale Tütüncübaşı, Ilaria Trombí
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Lea Becker, Robert Eberhardt, Marlen Gruner, Julia Laukert M.A., Sophia Schillik, Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team
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Claus Kuhlmann, Timo Roth, Cristopher Santos, Saskia Sandrock, Sophia Schillik, sisterMAG Team
Translation Sabrina Bäcker, Ira Häussler, Alex Kords, Christian Näthler, Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team
Ira Häussler, Alex Kords, Amie McCracken, Judith Remke, sisterMAG Team
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