Style and Watches • Brummell
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Meet your match
Brunello Cucinelli; Ralph Lauren Purple Label; Tullio M Puglia/Getty Images; Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com
Catherine Hayward, Esquire’s fashion director, pairs six classic watches with six key menswear looks from this season’s catwalks. The result? Well, if the face fits…
01. Dunhill + Cartier Alfred Dunhill has long been associated with motoring, first manufacturing its famous ‘Motorities’ – accessories for cars – over 100 years ago. Today, Dunhill has grown into a luxury lifestyle company, leading the way in elegant-yet-sporty pieces for the modern man. But it’s not all formality in the Dunhill design studio. The house’s quirks veer towards the eccentric: an oversized bloom tucked into a buttonhole; a clash of stripes with checks. The new Cartier Drive, as its name suggests, is also inspired by the motoring world, and has some idiosyncratic features. The guilloche details on the dial are designed to echo grand old car radiator grills, while the crown is modelled on the bolts used in automotive manufacturing. Meanwhile, the cushion-shaped face is understated and thin enough, at 40mm, to remain as elegant as a Dunhill blazer. Just like Dunhill, Cartier celebrates the new while keeping an authoritative eye on the past.
02. Ami + Tudor Ami is an anomaly among high-octane fashion brands, producing unassuming, non-shouty clothes that, nevertheless, have put Alexandre Mattiussi’s five-year-old label firmly into fashion’s spotlight. ‘Cool clothes for real men’ is how he describes his work and customer, and in an industry based on the shock of the new, Mattiussi has built a sturdy business on familiar, easy classics. Quite like Tudor, Rolex’s little brother, which recently relaunched in the UK market with some new-kidon-the-block credentials, Mattiussi prides his designs on affordability while retaining an almostunderground desirability. Here, he mismatches pinstripes with chalk stripes – a very modern take on classic tailoring – then subverts the entire ensemble by substituting the expected shirt-andtie combo with a bright tracksuit top. The 1980s casual aspect works well with the unpretentious tone-on-tone styling of Tudor’s Black Bay Black.
03. Bottega Veneta + Bremont When creative director Tomas Maier joined Bottega Veneta in 2001, the label had been in danger of losing its luxurious touch. Maier changed course. Out went the ostentatious, and in came the low-key, unadorned pieces for which the company is now celebrated. The quiet enjoyment of the luxury lifestyle is also championed by Henley-on-Thames-based entrepreneurs Nick and Giles English, the founding brothers of British watchmaker Bremont. They have made a name for themselves in the rarefied world of horology by producing rugged yet chic timepieces inspired by the world of aviation. This Bottega Veneta blouson – all buttery-soft handle and slouchy fit – blends neatly into the domain of well-to-do aviation enthusiasts who fly vintage planes as a hobby. Like Bremont’s latest model – the ALT1-ZT – with its clean dial and 24-hour function, it’s perfect for long-haul travel, too. By private jet, of course.
04. Ralph Lauren + Patek Philippe Put simply, Ralph Lauren created the visual template for the American Dream through developing one of the USA’s most valuable corporations. His early obsession with the silver screen of the 1930s and 40s continues to translate into his designs for 2016 – old-school glamour straight out of the Hollywood studios of the mid-20th century. Rather like this classic dress watch from Patek Philippe, a rose-gold version of the Calatrava, first introduced in 1932. This timeless Lauren evening look bears all the hallmarks of a formal design that will never go out of style: wide peaked lapels that create the unmistakable triangular silhouette; high-waisted trousers; wide turn-ups; jaunty accessories. But it’s the chocolate-brown tuxedo that really captures the imagination – something that Patek Philippe knows how to do only too well. The allure of the traditional tweaked to modernist perfection.
05. Paul Smith + Glashütte Sitting front row at the Paul Smith show this season was actor Gary Oldman, a friend of Smith’s, resplendent in white trousers, stripy socks and soft-pink shoes. The two worked together on Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy back in 2011, when the designer collaborated in the early development of the film, sharing his insights into the mood of 1970s London with the director. There was a distinct nod to that decade at Smith’s spring/ summer show – quirky and colourful, a flared trouser here, a skinny jacket there. Tailoring is, of course, his forte. And ‘classic with a twist’ is the company’s ethos. So pairing this threebutton, windowpane-checked suit with the Glashütte Original Senator Observer seems like a good choice: both a little bit retro, both about precision and discovery. And each the product of respected designers who dare to be unorthodox in the business and commerce world.
06. Brunello Cucinelli + Richard Mille Today, when the dress code says ‘nautical’, what does that mean? Thankfully, no garish waterproofs required. Because now there is Brunello Cucinelli. Known for luxurious fabrics and low-key styling, the Cucinelli look is all about layers – even in summer. And even on a boat. So a classic navy sweatshirt thrown over a simple white tee looks modern with short sleeves; knee-length shorts in soft jersey are elegant in matching navy; a sleeveless gilet in neutral tones adds warmth and texture. And the suede slip-ons? Not waterproof but non-slip, so they classify as practical in these waters. Meanwhile, the modern designs of Richard Mille’s RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph showcases its technical prowess – bold neon highlights with a skeletonised dial, an integrated compass, a second time-zone function and a race-start countdown timer. Casual, luxurious and highly functional, just like Cucinelli’s designs.