Toyonaga Distillery
W
hen you
edge of it. The basin lies almost equidis-
strains means that every step of the
think of top
tant from both Mt. Aso to the north and
process requires intense precision. Mr.
quality rice
Sakurajima to the south, two of Japan’s
Toyonaga stresses that the steps before
for making Japan’s finer drinks, Southern
most active volcanoes. The former is
koji propagation are particularly underap-
Kyushu is generally not one of the first
among the world’s largest while the latter
preciated. First and foremost in his mind
regions that comes to mind. There are sev-
experiences several eruptions every day.
is carefully steaming the rice. Ensuring
eral active volcanoes in the area, and rice
Thanks to topography and weather pat-
uniform moisture content during steam-
does not grow comfortably in soil with a
terns, the Hitoyoshi Basin is only lightly
ing allows for even penetration of the koji
high ash content. That is part of the reason
dusted by the resulting ash plumes, and
fungus that is used for saccharification.
that Southern Kyushu has become synony-
has long been considered some of the
Such painstaking attention to detail is un-
mous with sweet potatoes, a vegetable that
best farmland this far south in Kyushu.
doubtedly one of the reasons why Toyona-
is happy just about anywhere you plant it.
Toyonaga Distillery, in business since
ga Distillery shochu is so well respected
1894, sources all of its rice from the ba-
both in Japan and abroad.
But the Hitoyoshi Basin is lucky, blessed even, and that’s where you can
sin, grains that are affectionately known
find Toyonaga Distillery, right out at the
as kuma mai (kuma rice). But Mr. Toyonaga, the fourth head
Shiro Toyanaga, President of Toyonaga Distillery.
Having tasted some modest success in the American market, especially on the East Coast, Toyonaga Distillery is now
of the distillery, takes this a step further.
producing new brands. First was an aro-
He uses only organic rice for his award-
matic barley shochu, Mugi Shiru. Barley
winning flagship brands, and the distill-
shochu is quite the rarity in Kuma Shochu
ery’s namesake brand has been available
country, but it’s an award-winner in its
in the United States for more than a
own right. Additionally, following up on
decade. In fact, Toyonaga Distillery’s
last year’s limited run MK-I rice shochu
main vacuum pressure distilled brand
success, MK-II is ready to hit the shelves.
again came home with a couple of medals
These more experimental batches, which
at this year’s Los Angeles International
actually use the word “prototype” on the
Sprits Competition, an admirable accom-
label, exhibit more pronounced aromatic
plishment for such a small distillery. Of
profiles and have become something of a
course, the plaudits don’t come easily.
collector’s item in Japan.
The use of such high quality rice
And like many other shochu makers in Kyushu, Mr. Tokunaga made sure to start experimenting with barrel-aged rice shochu several years ago. One of his newest labels is the dark amber Okukuma which is a delicious seven year cask-conditioned rice shochu with a 40% alcohol content and dark amber hue. With his son currently employed by the distillery, Mr. Toyonaga has a keen sense of both Kuma Shochu’s past and present. Overlooking the patchwork quilt of rice paddies from the rim of the Hitoyoshi Basin, he also knows that shochu’s future will likely run straight
Toyonaga Distillery as seen from the rice paddies behind the distillery.
10
through this volcano-flanked valley.