Buzzwords come and go in the wine industry. Trends in winemaking can be as fickle as the stock market or the latest fashion trends. But 2013 ushered back in a philosophy, a paradigm shift that fascinated me. It was utterly welcome that winemakers started to again show restraint in their technique. They searched for balance, a word that came up in interview after interview. The result might seem simplistic, but in 2013, in the wide array of wines that I sampled from across the globe, one characteristic stood out: Balance.
Winemaker spotlight Early morning sun trickled through my living room blinds as I reached out to Adam Mason
finest interpretation of the varietal I’ve ever had. He was able UNCORKED to reign in the characteristics James Nokes of Grenache because he let the fruit from the vineyard tell the story in the bottle. It’s a practice I hope more via Skype. The Mulderbosch winemakers embrace. Technolwinemaker was wrapping up his day in South Africa. Yet, the ogy has allowed winemakers to theme of our interview centered almost eliminate vintage variation. But when the product of around the same topic as other the vineyard is allowed to truly winemakers. speak, spectacular wines are “We are all looking for balance,” Mason said. “Whether it crafted because it’s an organic process. The final product in be in wine or in life. We search the bottle is what Mother Nafor balance in all that we do.” ture intended us to enjoy. That search has gratefully Winemakers in the Santa seeped into the minds of wineRita Hills area of California makers across the globe. In a wine that can be gregari- carved out a reputation based on letting the vintage tell a ous, Grenache, Tuck Beckststory. Spectacularly balanced offer spoke about balance. His wines are the result. Alma Melee 2011 Grenache was the
Rosa, Babcock and Longoria stand out as examples. They are just a few of the wineries on my Christmas and New Year’s wine trip, which was ongoing when I filed this piece. Look for the experiences from the trip in upcoming weeks.
Wine 101 Set a wine resolution for 2014. Mine is to travel to wine regions that I haven’t visited and find winemakers who will take extraordinary chances to make spectacular products. From my early December visit to New York to discover wines from the Finger Lakes, a region in which I was totally unfamiliar, to my current trip through Santa Barbara, Calif., and the Santa Rita Hills, there
are so many producers taking risks and expanding their profession. This spring, I need to push the envelope and visit Trey Busch in Walla Walla, Wash. It’s a place I have never been and a region making amazing wines. When we met at the Heart Full of Soul fundraiser in November, his outstanding wines furthered my desire to make it to Washington. Great wines are being made across the world. Get out and discover them.
James Nokes writes a biweekly wine column for Shaw Media. He’s been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Contact him at planitkanenews@shawmedia.com.
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17 | Planit Kane| KAN • Thursday, January 9, 2014 • The Republican
Welcoming winemakers’ return to balance in 2013