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Get to Know Five of Durham’s Top Female Chefs
D
URHAM’S CULINARY TALENT IS A force to be reckoned with, and this month, we recognize five female chefs who are making a name for themselves in an often male-dominated industry. Several have contributed to putting Durham on the map for decades while others have come in more recently and let their culinary creativity shine. Here’s what inspires them, what’s challenged them and what kitchen tools they refuse to live without:
B Y A M B ER WAT S ON
PHOEBE LAWLESS, OWNER AND PASTRY CHEF
THE LAKEWOOD AND ‘BABY’ SCRATCH BAKERY Over 20 years ago, when Phoebe was grappling with college, she found respite in restaurants. “A lot of folks cared about the craft of cooking and serving, creating joy for people, and that was contagious,” she says. The industry, however, isn’t always easy, especially for women. “In hindsight, I dealt with a lot more [crap] than I realized when I was younger,” Phoebe says. “I still think there’s a tendency to treat women who lead in this industry as precious and special.” Scratch’s successful downtown shop closed recently, allowing focus to shift to the Lakewood location. Phoebe believes Scratch’s long-term success was the product of opening in the right place at the right 30
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time. The Durham Farmers Market, where Scratch got its start, created an exciting experience, and Phoebe was able to develop relationships with producers and downtown residents. “We made food that was tasty and real and didn’t try too hard,” she says. “I really believe if it were anywhere else it would be a very different business.” At home, Phoebe’s kids love making dumplings, ravioli or any kind of noodle, while she loves to sit around a table and pick blue crab with lots of butter and a cold Riesling. When it comes to meals, breakfast is her favorite to make, and her go-to kitchen tool is the trusty cast iron pan.
TANYA MATTA, OWNER AND PASTRY CHEF
FORMERLY OF DAISYCAKES, AND NOW OF UPCOMING MATTA, PASTRY SHOP AND TASTING ROOM Tanya has been in the restaurant industry for 18 years and happened upon her career by chance. “I was getting my master’s in city planning at UNC when I stumbled into baking. I took a part-time job baking at Foster’s Market on weekends and found that I loved it … way more than my planning program!” she admits. Tanya primarily worked as pastry chef at the Washington Duke Inn’s Fairview Dining Room and owned DaisyCakes, which is getting an exciting revival