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Mural reveals the artistic side of Hongdae. Photograph by Ryu Seunghoo
Joe McPherson
Zen Kimchi http://zenkimchi.com
Joe McPherson became a self-confessed Koreaphile after he studied Korean history in college. While he was initially only going to stay in Korea for a year in 2004 to teach English, he’s still here nine years later. McPherson says visitors to Seoul should go to the Noryangjin Fish Market 노량진수산시장 [ Map 10 ]. He calls it a visit to an aquarium where you can eat the exhibits and says the best time to go is on Saturday at around 6pm because you can buy your seafood and have it cooked at an on-site restaurant. He also recommends an obligatory visit to Hongdae 홍대 [ Map 3 ]. Although the area is known for its clubs and party atmosphere, McPherson says people should go for the people watching, for you’ll find hipsters, punks, and skaters mixing together in quirky cafés. McPherson also says there is an exciting food scene developing at the Hapjeong end. “On weekend evenings, expect to see a Neo-New Wave duo play at the triangular park area; shop for unique trinkets at the flea market; and soak up the post-mod folk art that is becoming the new Korean style and infecting the country,” he says. “The Korean culture that your grandkids will know is getting its start here.”
Mapo 마포 is another go-to area for McPherson. In particular, he likes Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포 정대포. (Get off at Mapo Station 마포역, Line 5. Walk along the street behind the Seoul Garden Hotel for a few blocks. Look for the orange sign with a picture of a cannon.) McPherson says the restaurant specializes in galmaegisal, a tender and lean cut of pork cooked over charcoals. The pork fat is also collected from the barbecue and mixed with egg for a Korean-style scrambled egg. Also in the area is Bongpyeong Memil Makguksu 봉평메밀막국수, a restaurant dedicated to Gangwon-do cuisine. (From Exit 3 of Hyochang Park Station 효창공 원역, Line 6, go directly behind the Seoul Garden Hotel and look for the restaurant with the yellow signs.) “Gangwon-do is a rural area that is off the culinary radar and waiting for its time in the spotlight. If you can’t go to the countryside, bring the countryside to you,” McPherson says. The restaurant specializes in buckwheat dishes; McPherson says visitors should order the cold buckwheat noodles, makguksu.
Scenes at Noryangjin Fish Market. Photograph by Elizabeth Groeschen