security in the home
dummy alarm box it can be a good enough security system for those looking to save money.
Door and window security
Motion sensors, in the form of passive infrared (PIR), are a common form of security lighting
the most unlikely places such as in between fencing slates or in a bird box. You can even buy cameras that look like a rock. Generally, they are not as robust or weatherproof as other types and usually have no infra-red facility. It depends on who or what you are trying to detect as to whether this is a route you decide to take. There may also be issues with protecting privacy if your hidden camera has a view of your neighbours’ house or garden. Finally, as with everything in today’s high-tech world, change is taking place all the time. Talk to a few suppliers to work out exactly what you want to achieve and then get them to suggest the best system for your needs.
Outside lighting
It’s probably reasonable to claim that if your home is well-lit after dark the average thief will choose to go elsewhere, for an easier life. Decorative or practical garden lighting are two ways round this but it’s also wise to install some sort of security-only lighting system. This system can’t be accidentally switched off in the house along with the outside lighting. Security lighting is usually very straightforward. The fittings should be placed high enough up a building so they can’t be meddled with but not so high that a burglar can’t see them. Their very presence will act as a deterrent. At the front of the house you can use a dusk to dawn sensor which activates when it gets dark. More common is to use PIRs to trigger the switching but be aware (and this could take some trial and error) that moving trees and animals (wild and domestic) could set off the lights. This can be annoying, especially if the glare disturbs your neighbours. Ideally, place your lighting and test it out so that when it comes on, it doesn’t produce light pollution for you and others. Use this sort of security lighting only on parts of the house that can be seen by others, or you’ll just be providing a good working light for an intruder to work by out of sight. Windows and doors that can’t be lit and are out of sight can be protected by various types of bars and grilles or, of course, a camera. For very little money, security lighting such as this is the best deterrent to burglars. Used together with a
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When choosing doors and windows for your build, look carefully at their security systems. The most secure standard to look for when it comes to windows and doors is EN1627 which points to installing powder-coated galvanised steel frames – the steel provides both rigidity and the casing for an inaccessible multi-point locking system. These doors can be fitted with timber faces and laminated glass and when in place look exactly like a traditional door. Another domestic security standard, one which tests for resistance to issues such as lock snapping and bumping, is the Publicly Available Standard (PAS) 24. It’s a pass or fail accreditation. NI and ROI companies also operate under the Secured by Design scheme (see end of article for details) to certify window and door products. Remember that with multi-point locking doors and windows, simply pushing the handle up does not lock it in place. You’ll still need to use the key to make it actually lock. When buying sliding doors or windows, be sure they can’t be lifted out of their tracks. Good companies have built-in systems that prevent this happening. Also consider the fact that most patio or ‘French’ doors open outward which makes them easy to pry open with a crowbar, so in addition to the correct cylinder locks it’s a good idea to have a locking mechanism that secures the door from the inside. But most intruders try to get in through actual doors, so this is where you should spend most of your attention when it comes to security.
Doors
Buy the best, strongest, most robust front door you can afford. uPVC and aluminium front doors almost always have built-in multi-point locking systems, along with hinge bolts. But timber front doors will need to be fitted with a substantial 5-lever mortice deadlock in addition to any sort of rim latch (for example, a Yale lock). The mortice lock should be placed one-third of the way up the door and the rim lock one-third of the way down. If you are in a highly-burgled area it makes sense to reinforce your door frame inside with a steel strip called a ‘London’ or ‘Birmingham’ bar. Having a door viewer is useful whatever type of front door you install. A door chain (or other type of limiter) can make sense too. Glazed doors should have laminated glazing or glass reinforced with security film. Internal grilles are wise if you are at real risk of being broken into through a glazed door. Timber front doors should be a minimum of 44mm thick. Never fit a letter plate in the bottom rail of your door as mail could be stolen, and fit an internal cover plate over the internal cavity of the letter plate, not only to keep out draughts but also for added security. When thinking about keys, always remove the key from the lock once you are inside. Keep your keys well away from the front door so they can’t be stolen through the letter box by someone using a SelfBuild & Improve Your Home