( C W F RO M TO P L E F T ) L I N DAS P H OTO G R AP HY / G E T T Y, CO U RT E SY O F L ABAD I B E ACH H OT E L , D E M E R Z E L 21 / G E T T Y
the amenities. On the weekends, you can listen to musicians play for tips, or even take a horse ride along the breaking waves. 1:30 p.m. When you’re ready for a break from the crowds, head to the 04 Labadi Beach Hotel for a tranquil, luxurious lunch. The lunch buffet is 64 cedis and includes international and Ghanaian treats. There’s always a Ghanaian dish of the day, as well as lamb, chicken, pork, and a variety of fresh salads and rice side dishes. Or for a cheaper option, grab a stick of grilled meat on the beach for only a few cedis. Add a side of fries with pepper sauce, and the whole meal won’t cost more than 10 cedis. But be careful: They aren’t joking when they say the pepper sauce is very hot. Then, after lunch, head back to the beach. Grab a lounge chair and an umbrella for a mid-day rest, or jump in the bathtub-warm water and go for a swim. 4:00 p.m. Just east of the central business district is the neighborhood 05 Osu, with its lively street scene and great shop-
ping. The street stands are filled with purses, dresses and other goods made from Kente cloth (the brightly colored and geometrically patterned, hand-woven cloth for which Ghana is known), as well as wooden masks, jewelry and other local arts. Prices can start high, but take your time and haggle. It’s the Ghanaian way, and the process is half the fun. For higher-end goods and a more conventional shopping situation, check out the fair-trade shop 06 Global Mama for clothes, accessories, cards and books, or the regional fabric chain 07 Woodin for high-fashion African fabrics and premade clothes with an international flair. 7 p.m. Head to 08 Buka, an upscale African restaurant in Osu. Try grilled tilapia with kelewele (fried sweet plantains). The fish will be served to you whole, with the skin crisped by the grill and flavored with salt, lime and pepper sauce. Or if you’re feeling adventurous, sample orisirisi stew with egusi — a spicy soup made with beef and liver and ac-
Labadi Beach (above) offers visitors a chance for a sundrenched rest or swim, while the Independence Arch (below) teaches of Ghana’s past.
companied by ground melon seeds. 9 p.m. Just down the road from Buka, end the night with a drink at 09 Republic, a popular hotspot with many outside tables for great people-watching. The crowd is full of young, hip Ghanaians, as well as an international contingent. Take a peek at the decorations — photos of Ghana from the 1960s and ’70s — while you sip on a mixed drink made with cane juice. Try the Frozen Harmattan. This blend of coconut-flavored sugar-cane spirits, lime and brown sugar is a special treat. The Coco Batida is similar, but with ice cream and chocolate added into the mix if you’re in a dessert kind of mood. 11 p.m. Retire to 10 La Villa Boutique Hotel, a lovely mid-price option near the city’s center. It’ll be too late now, but make sure to squeeze in a quick swim at some point in the outdoor pool, surrounded by palm trees and lounge chairs. Housed in the former Russian Embassy, this sleek and tasteful boutique hotel is the perfect place to end your night — and start your next day. —Glenna Gordon is a documentary photographer who splits her time between West Africa and New York. In addition to her own photo projects, she also covers news and features, does work for NGOs, and trains photographers in Africa. march/april 2014
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