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" .. a penchant for polished brass, steam boilers, hemp and holystone." lians are surfers, lifesavers and sailors. This interest is reflected in the ANMM's tallest gallery, where Australia II, the 1987 America 's Cup winner sail s in the air above the viewer. Other smalle r recreational craft, including Sydney harbor' s swift 1919 18-footer Britannia , are also suspended from roof trusses throughout the galleries. Australians are, however, experiencing a deepening of interest in their maritime past.The national museum was itself opened for the nation 's bicentennial in 1988. The arrival atthemuseum nex t year of the Endeavour replica, currently under construction in Perth , will no doubt heighten that interest. The soul of Sydney 's loca l maritime heritage interest, resides not at the national museum , but barel y a hundred yards away where workers can be found riveting iron plates to the frames of a 19th century bark, the James Craig . Restoration of the 1873 Sunderland-built Craig is top priority for membe rs of Sydney Maritime Museum . Here, and at othe r points throughout the harbor, Sydneysiders can be found lavishing attention on the museum 's outstanding collection of heritage vessels . Across from the Craig is the museum' s headquarters, itself aboard a classic vessel, the 75-year-old retired commuterferry Kanangra. Three more vessels, the steam tug Waratah , the steam yacht Lady Hopetoun and the yacht Gretel II, moored fortouring at the national museum 's docks, also attest to the volunteers ' penchant for polished brass, steam boilers, hemp and holystone. The approach is exemplified by the words of Craig restoration supervisor Geoff Emanuel: "Our life would be a lot easier if we just dollied it up and left it at the wharf, but that' s not the point, is it?" He had recently spent some quality time caulking the new decks of the Craig, rolling cotton and oakum and plastering hot black pitch into the gaps. Unfortunately, the delight of stumbling across old-world craftsmanship on yesteryear vessels may not long be found in Darling Harbour. The Sydney Maritime Museum 's presence there is threatened by public confusion and official indifference. Uninformed citizens are asking why Sydney needs two maritime museums. The distinction between national and local heritage, and that between hands-on experience and a hall of exhibits, is not clear. Harbor officials want to tum the small but visible space it occupies into a marina for boat auctions. All this at a time SEA HISTORY 67 , AUTUMN 1993
when the Museum is being asked to also move its remaining collection-a large number of Sydney skiffs, yawls, engines, shipmodels and even a couple of large steam vessels in storage on piers upharbor- to another location. There were venues that cou ldn 't be reached on this trip, like Admiralty House, established 150 years ago on Kirribilli Point, and the old Quarantine Station inside North Head. But I was curious about one last destination-a small island three miles upstream from Sydney Cove, in the mouth of the Parramatta River. It is hard to get to; private harbor ferries only drop visitors at Spectacle Island twice a week. Once ashore, wh at they will find inside the island's old Navy storehouses is Australia's largest co llection of naval memorabilia, the Naval Historical Collection. A wi ldly eclectic array of items, it includes upside-down compasses, wheels of ships, ship 's bells, telegraphs, steam winches and every other conceivable naval shipboard item from rum ration equipment to early submarine picnic baskets, all crammed into neat rows on floors and over the walls of the mostly Colonial-era buildings. "At least one of everything from the Navy office," says curator Graham Thurston, who is still accessioning items at a tremendous rate and shows no sign of stopping. Size is no object eitheron top of his wi sh list is a 5-ton steam crane from the abandoned shipyard on nearby Cockatoo Island. It is because of Sydneysiders like Thurston, and some good-sense, preservation-oriented public policy , that a precious maritime heritage is holding its own in Sydney. There are lapses-the Sydney Maritime Museum needs support. When that happen s, the result for travelers will be a nearly unbroken trail from early explorer to modem sailor.
"'I have not yet begun to fight! "
'll1is busl original Iv L'Onunissioned in I 992 to conunemoratc the 200iJ1 A1miver&'ll)' of iJ1e death or Jolm Paul Jones is now being made amilable in a limited edition of 950 in cold cast bninze. IL is t11e work of British SC!llplor Alru1 llru1ner who spent many hours stud)ong contempom1y artistic impressions mid thol'Oughly researching t11e life or Jolm Paul J ones in his quc.sLLO capture noLouly rut accurate likencs.s bul also Lhc powertitl ru1d inu·iguing chrunctcr or tl1is greaL lighting sailor. Each hru1d pl'Oduced piece, measuring 6'/, inches in heighL \\ill be accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity personally sibmcd rutd numbered by iJ1e creator, who says of his \\Qrk "fl is the cow1le11a11ce of a courageoiis and resource/id sea wanior and a b1il/iant tactician. fl is also a face of' lwmour and mischief' with a I.winkle in the eye t.lwl conquered the hearts of' 111c111y w1 adoring lady!"' 111e price of' each bust is $75 including ai11nail from
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Travel assistance for this article was provided by Continental Airlines. 33