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hen Crystal Cruises took the decision to expand into river voyages last year they picked a winning format: a glorious Danube itinerary and a sleekly reimagined vessel. Crystal Mozart, the first in a series of planned ‘river yachts’, is more paredback glamour than riverboat bling. She launched to a fanfare of trademark six-star service – think butlers for each of the 77 suites, Michelin-level cuisine, a small but chic spa and tech-y touches from whizzy e-bikes to in-suite iPads. On my ten-night cruise we major on calorific treats. From Vienna’s cosy konditoreis we weave through the fuzzy marzipan beauty of Wachau Valley, spying neat vineyards, drinking glasses of Grüner Veltliner and tucking into tender Almo beef that easily outrivals Wagyu. We arrive in Austria’s Durnstein, light dancing on the river, highlighting castle ruins and a powder-blue church, and in its charming streets we find goodies crafted from local apricots: chocolate-covered kernels and fruity schnapps and silky hand creams. Onwards to saccharine Melk Abbey where gilded cherubs and raspberrytoned stonework mirror our later trip to Passau’s
stuccoed churches, their wedding-cake silhouettes softening storm-dark skies. These day trips see us zooming along in Crystal’s Wi-Fi-enabled coach accompanied by local guides, but in Linz I’m on foot: a heart-pounding yomp up to the pilgrimage church of Pöstlingberg before pottering around the historic quarter. In wood-panelled Konditorei Jindrak, I find what is reputedly the world’s oldest cake. It’s fresh thankfully, but Linzertorte follows a 17th-century recipe that combines flaky pastry, crushed nuts and redcurrant jam. There’s local beer too, in Bratislava – our hoppy samples accompanied by giant warm pretzels. But best is our Bavarian forest ride where fir trees and music-box cottages lead to the warmth of a log-built distillery. Our mission here: to learn about schnapps before downing endless fiery tots. The riverboat itself has a sense of uncluttered lightness, which is partly due to its unusual double-the-norm width. In good weather guests flop on deck, lazing on teak loungers lulled by the Danube’s soft swell, before lunching at casual Blue Bar and Grill or street-food themed Bistro Mozart. We’re a sociable gathering and kick off
evenings together with cocktails and piano music at the clubby Palm Cove bar. Chatty table hopping at the elegant window-wrapped Waterside restaurant is common, and the food, masterminded by German chef, Dirk Maggs, divine: a showcase of our destinations that spans turbot with tiny dumplings to delicate goulashes. There’s even, unusually for a riverboat, an onboard pastry chef whose breads and tiny Viennese desserts prove irresistible. One of the biggest talking points in the group are the Japanese Toto loos in the spacious suites. It heats the seat, plays sounds and flip-closes to command. My charming, efficient butler Clément Souvage proves less controllable. Nightly he plies me with extra chocolates, prosecco and vegetable smoothies, of which I have to guess the ingredients. It’s no wonder I fall asleep and dream of food. CRYSTAL CRUISES offers a 10-day round
trip cruise from Vienna on Crystal Mozart in 2018 from £3,625 per person, based on two sharing, including return flights, transfers, all meals and drinks onboard and a choice of shore excursions. Call 020 7399 7604 or visit crystalcruises.co.uk
The Danube
A panoramic river route serves up a slice of foodie heaven
The picturesque Old Town of Passau, Bavaria
VIENNA, AUSTRIA
KREMS, AUSTRIA
MELK, AUSTRIA
LINZ, AUSTRIA
PASSAU, BRATISLAVA, BUDAPEST, GERMANY SLOVAKIA HUNGARY
VIENNA, AUSTRIA