ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 6 NO.9 :: MARCH 2018
OUR ITALIAN ISSUE!
ITALIAN RECIPES TO MAKE AT HOME
C E L E B R AT I N G I TA LY
ONE BITE AT A TIME!
Italian Wine | Italian Spirits | Pizza & Pasta Perfection | Tiramisu
I T TA K E S T H E B A R O S S A T O M A K E
N E W T O A L B E R TA
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POINTS 2015 THE BAROSSAN
PeterLehmannWines.com Enjoy responsibly
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34 VOLUME 6 / ISSUE #9 MARCH 2018
Features 18
The Perfect Pizza Restaurants are upping their pizza game, and with a little work you can replicate them to create your own pizza perfection by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
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World of Pasta-bilities We’ve rounded up some of the quirky, fun, or misunderstood pasta shapes found in stores around the province for your next meal by Eva Colmenero
24 Italy – Closer to Home Than You Think Find the best ingredients possible by Leilani Olynik
32 Spirits of Italy Shedding some light on uniquely Italian liqueurs by Linda Garson
26 Spice it Up – Tiramisu Add your own unique spin to this must-have dessert by Mallory Frayn
38 Spring Break Spirits Evoking warm weather with rum by Tom Firth
28 Learning From The Best Take your pasta dishes to the next level by Eva Colmenero
30 Cocktail Italiani: Creative Italian Coffee Cocktails by Linda Garson
40 Making the case: For Italian Wine by Tom Firth
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Viva in Italia! 1,000 different types of grape from one country can be overwhelming, so we’re getting to know six native varieties a little better by Marcia J. Hamm
Departments 6
Shout Outs
8
Off The Menu – Cilantro’s Lemon Conchigliette
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Chefs’ Tips and Tricks! The Art of Italian – a special spread featuring recipes, hints and tips from six Alberta chefs who know Italian cuisine well. Salute!
42 Open That Bottle Dario Berloni, of Teatro Group by Linda Garson On the Cover: Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for her striking photograph capturing the essence of piping hot, Italian deliciousness all on a fork!
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Letter From The Editor before, and with such a range of well-loved ingredients and dishes, wines, and spirits, Italy is an ideal place to start. It’s also a country close to my heart as a gourmand (yes, the dictionary definition of a gourmand is “a glutton for food and drink”), and one I have visited many times and will continue to visit. As we all learned in school about the Romans and their culture, we think that Italy has always been there, so it's funny to think that the country is only six years older than Canada.
With no February issue of Culinaire it’s been a while since we spoke, but we’ve been using our extra hours to plan ahead, and I have lots to tell you about now. Firstly, our March issue. We’ve never featured just one country or region
But with such a strong culinary identity, even though the cuisine and wines are totally regional – you're not drinking Amarone in Tuscany or Brunello in Veneto, for example, there’s more than enough to fill every issue of Culinaire for a year, so at least here we can start to take a look at pastas, pizzas, and good examples of wines and spirits.
Our exciting news is that we’re starting a free newsletter this month. It’s had a long gestation period but is finally born, and full of snippets of news about Alberta’s food and beverage scene as well as contests, giveaways, and more. If you’d like to keep up to date with the culinary comings and goings in the province, then let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us. And last but certainly not least, save the date of May 12th – the Saturday of Mother’s Day weekend – for our fourth annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt! More exciting adventures and experiences await, with a majority of new destinations and treats. To register, look for more details in next month’s magazine, and social media posts. Cheers, Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief
Voglia di girovagare. (VOH-lee-ah dee JEE-roh-vuh-GAR-eh) Satisfy your ‘wanderlust’ in our shops, where you’ll find pantry staples and exotic delicacies; often in the same aisle.
Travel with your tastebuds. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End
CALGARY Willow Park
italiancentre.ca
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Director: John Tatton 403-616-5231 john@culinairemagazine.ca Edmonton Sales: Kristen Boyko 780-782-4280 kristen@culinairemagazine.ca Calgary Sales: Gillian Roberts 403-990-1512 gillian@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Eva Colmenero web@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Anna Brooks Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Eva Colmenero Mallory Frayn Marcia J. Hamm Dong Kim Leilani Olynikl
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Our Contributors < Mallory Frayn
Mallory is a food writer and PhD student living and learning in Montreal. She loves to combine her two passions, food and psychology, to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Her site, becauseilikechocolate.com, aims to do just that (and obviously chocolate is always included). When she isn’t busy with research or writing, Mallory is most likely jogging, or eating (or both!) her way around Montreal. Follow her @cuzilikechoclat.
< Leilani Olynik
Leilani is completely unable to follow a recipe, preferring to add her own spin on things. She has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. As the Marketing and Events Coordinator at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, she shares her passion for local food by showcasing the market as a vibrant and inspiring place to build relationships with your farmer, and reconnect with your food. Wife. Mother. Cocktail enthusiast. And proud Calgarian..
< Marcia J. Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Hamm
Marcia is the manager and buyer at Hicks Fine Wines in St. Albert. She holds the WSET Diploma in Wine & Spirits, and is an Italian Wine Ambassador through the Vinitaly International Academy. Her expertise comes from both passion and accredited learning. She owns a wine consulting business, Joy of Wine, doing educational tastings in various venues. Marcia is truly a wine geek who considers wine a gift that must be shared!
All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Shout Outs... Congratulations to Canmore’s Bow Valley BBQ for their double World Champions win at The World Hot Sauce Awards. Blueberry Merlot Steak Sauce took World Champion Steak Sauce, Sweet Chili Corn Salsa took Speciality Salsa top spot for the second year, and Parkway Premium Caesar Works placed second for Bloody Marys. Space doesn’t allow much detail on all the recent openings, so sign up for our new monthly newsletter at culinairemagazine.ca to read lots more! In Calgary: With a focus on wine, Japanese whiskey, and eclectic gins, Blink owner and wine aficionado, Leslie Echino, has realised a long-time dream opening Bar Annabelle. It’s a stylish (but Echino insists, not trendy) 20-seat space, with oak panelling and floors; solid brass table edgings, shelves, and cutlery; and custom-made, rose-coloured plates. The small menu is based on Echino’s favourite wine bars, and comes from Blink! Opens 3pm Mon-Sat. Chai Panni
Chai Panni (“tea and water” and a small bribe in India!) is inspired by Mango Shiva. It’s a super approachable takeaway in Bridgeland, where you can also eat in healthy, yet serious, flavourful Indian street food. Nothing is microwaved; Chai Pani uses a turbochef for its popular curry bowls, samosas, coconut prawns, and more. And there are homemade grab and go curries too. Curry in a hurry at crazy good prices, and part of all sales are donated to Educate Girls! Indulge Catering’s Urban Grub, in Manchester, is open for breakfast, lunch, and takeaway meals; from 6:30am you 6
Urban Grub
can enjoy $9 homemade breakfasts, and $8.50-$9.50 lunches. Frozen meals are made in very small batches, so they’re always fresh. Try Beef Bourguignon Pot Pie, Butter Chicken, and meatloaf. Pick up soups, salad dressings, sauces, and gluten-dairy-nut free, and vegan dishes, until 4pm Mon-Weds or 7pm Thurs-Fri.
Gringo Street
Cleaver has opened Gringo Street next door, offering North American foods with South American flavours. Look for wing, cheeseburger, and Guinnessbraised steak tacos, plus 11 more choices, and Mezcal Pork Shoulder – gluten-free options too! Street food culture rules here, with yellow shipping container walls, saddle seats, tequila, mezcal, and a great $10 cocktail list; Nacho Baby comes with a sombrero! Award-winning Monogram Café has opened a warm and welcoming, third location in Britannia Plaza. Expect the same great Monogram service, quality coffee, two rotating guest coffee roasters, and exclusive to the new store – Made by Marcus Coffee Soft Serve! Cilantro has now reopened, celebrating its 30th birthday with an update and refresh to the main floor, and an updated, refreshed menu featuring Rocky Mountain cuisine with elk and bison from their own game ranch. And those delicious pizzas and pastas can be gluten-free too.
Vintage Group has opened the whimsical, Elwood and the Rabbit in the Whitehall spot, serving up Chef Dilan Draper’s playful take on globally inspired comfort food. A firm believer in head to tail butchery, Chef Draper’s creative menu features local ingredients, and honest pricing. Open weekend breakfast to 2pm, and dinner from 5pm. In Edmonton, Sorrentino Group has opened its second Buco Pizzeria + Vino Bar in Upper Windermere. Second generation Rago and Saccomanno families have returned to their roots in Naples to develop the menu of sharing plates, pastas, and pizzas – also gluten-free. Sister to Cafe Mosaics, the food and drinks at The Moth Cafe are 100% plant-based, with raw ingredients. In the ex-Trang Tien space, you’ll find small bites such as Not Chicken Pot Pie, noodly mains, and a choice of eight kombuchas, nine tea lattes, and 10 medicinal tea blends. The team behind Meat and The Next Act in Old Strathcona have completed the hat trick with the popular Pip, a cosy 28-seat restaurant devoted to brunch and comfort food dinners – and a great selection of wines by the glass. Pip doesn’t take reservations, so plan ahead as wait times can be lengthy.
No Fillers No Binders No Preservatives
All-Natural
Now with 5 iconic locations: • Original Inglewood Deli • Spolumbo’s Cafe (Mayland Heights) • S.A.I.T. Aldred Centre • Calgary Airport US Terminal • Millarville Farmers’ Market
1308 9 Avenue SE, Calgary, AB T2G 0T3 (403) 264-6452 • spolumbos.com
Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON
Cilantro's Lemon Conchigliette Calgary’s Cilantro is 30 years old this year, and has a Serves 4 fresh new look to celebrate. 250 g dried conchigliette pasta shells
I’ve lost count of the times I’ve heard people wish they had the recipe for Lemon Conchigliette after devouring a bowl of it. Many thanks to Chef Lancelot Monteiro for sharing it with us.
¹/³ cup red onion, chopped
1 poblano pepper, julienned 1 tsp garlic, chopped 8 prawns 8 scallops 3 Tbs + 1 tsp (50 mL) dry white wine ½ cup (120 mL) heavy cream 35% 2 Tbs chèvre (soft goat cheese) 2 Tbs chopped fresh basil To taste salt and pepper ½ cup fresh grated Parmesan
1. Boil the pasta until it's cooked al dente, cool and set aside.
2. Sauté onion, pepper, and garlic on medium–high heat for 3-5 minutes.
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3. Add prawns and scallops, and
continue to fry for an additional 3 minutes. Deglaze with the white wine and continue cooking until the wine is reduced by half.
4. Add the cream and goat cheese, let simmer on low-medium heat for 5-8 minutes then add pasta shells and fresh chopped basil.
5. Toss and heat just until the pasta is hot, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with Parmesan and serve.
If there’s a dish in a local restaurant that you’d love to make, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track it down for you!
Discover Italian and Mediterranean delights as soon as you step into the Italian Store. Experience the deli with its authentic European and local fine meats and cheeses and a large
12539-102 AVE | EDMONTON, AB 780-705-4928 heartofthehomeyeg.ca
selection of antipasti (perfect for entertaining), pastries, gelato 55 and our delicious meals – all are available to eat in or take out, and all prepared by our wonderful team. A visit to the store can become more than a quick stop. Enjoy the ambiance of the café, grab a coffee while you shop and plan to stay for lunch. Laughing and vibrant conversation from our wonderful customers – it’s truly a traditional down to earth shopping experience.
5140 Skyline Way NE | Calgary Tel (403) 275-3300 | Fax (403) 275-0536
WWW.ITALIANSTORE.CA Monday - Saturday, 9am to 5pm
Chefs' Tips
Tricks!
The Art of Italian
by ANNA BROOKS photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM
Pasta, prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano… there are so many foods unique to Italy that are highly revered (and salivated over) in the western world. Italian food is about quality, but it’s also about connection. Walk into any Italian home, and you’re likely to meet heaping platters of food to be shared amongst family, friends, and maybe even a stranger or two. For our March issue, we’re celebrating one of our favourite cuisines with a special spread featuring tips and tricks
from six Alberta chefs who know Italian cuisine well. Salute! When it comes to Italian dining, we’re encouraged to eat as much as humanely (or inhumanely) possible, and as Chef Dione Harwood at Vaticano Cucina in Edmonton points out, a good Italian meal always starts with antipasti.
“Everyone at the table passes around antipasto platters with meats and cheese, and takes time to enjoy the company they’re with,” she says. “That really rings true to Italian culture.” Anything salty, meaty or pickled works perfectly for antipasti, and Harwood says if you really want to show off your Italian cooking skills, you can even try curing your own charcuterie at home. “One thing I’ve been able to practice and perfect at Vaticano, is curing your own meat,” Harwood says. “A lot of people think it’s scary and will take a long time, but I want to teach home cooks they don’t have to be afraid to try it.” With an endless supply of instructions online, Harwood says all you need is your meat of choice, high quality curing salt, and the rest is just time. Raised in Naples, Chef Giuseppe Di Gennaro, owner and chef at Cotto Italian Comfort Food in Calgary, says the trick to Italian cooking is always applying the “less is more” rule.
Vaticano's Anchovy Butter 10
Chef Dione Harwood
While most of us are landlocked here in Alberta, it doesn’t mean we can’t impress our guests (or even ourselves) with a spectacular Italian pasta. Fresh pasta is fun and easy to make at home, but Costa says there are great, high-quality dry pastas you can find at places like the Italian Centre Shop.
Chef Giuseppe Di Gennaro
“When it comes to making pasta, you don’t need an abundance of sauce,” Di Gennaro says. “Use the best ingredients you can find, and keep it simple.” Di Gennaro says the easiest (and most avoidable) error is overcooking pasta. Because noodles are the star of the dish in Italian cuisine, he recommends making your sauce first and then setting it aside so full focus is on cooking the noodles.
When it comes to making pasta, you don’t need an abundance of sauce “People make the mistake of putting pasta in the water first, but by the time the pasta is done the sauce isn’t ready,” he explains. “The secret to pasta is watching it at all times. Make sure you’re tasting throughout the cooking process!” He may be Canadian born, but Chef Daniel Costa is an honorary Italian in our books. Recently opening his third Italian restaurant, Uccellino, in Edmonton, Costa says his style is heavily influenced by his time spent in Italy. “I discover new dishes and methods each time I travel to Italy,” Costa says. “I could be cooking couscous with a spicy fish broth from Sicily one day, and a risotto with white truffles from Piedmont the next.”
“A major misconception of pasta is that fresh is always superior. Dried pasta works much better with specific sauces,” he explains. “Cook your pasta in plenty of salted, boiling water until just under al dente. Finish cooking in your sauce with a ladle or two of the pasta’s cooking water.” We’ve tackled antipasti and pastas – now on to the meat, and who better to ask than a chef who cooks a few hundred steaks a week? Spencer Wheaton, executive chef at one of Calgary’s longest standing Italian restaurants, Mercato, is known for his take on Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. Ranging from 25 ounces all the way up to 70 ounces, these Tuscan-style rib steaks are meant for sharing in true family-style fashion. It might seem daunting to cook a 7½ cm cut of beef, but Wheaton says it’s something straightforward to make at home and will feed just about everybody. Chef Daniel Costa
Chef Spencer Wheaton
“With any Italian cooking, the quality of the product is paramount. You wouldn’t want to go anything less than AAA beef,” Wheaton says. “Make sure it has at least 21 days of age — the aging of meat is what makes it tender and flavourful.”
With any Italian cooking, the quality of the product is paramount When cooking meat, Wheaton says there are two crucial steps to follow: bringing meat up to room temperature beforehand, and letting it rest afterwards. “Cold meat doesn’t cook evenly, whereas meat at room temperature will cook a lot more evenly,” he explains. “On the back end, if you slice meat that hasn’t rested properly, all the juices will run out. Resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat and will give you a much better end result.” Like pasta dishes, avoid heavy saucing and let the meat be the star. Wheaton finishes his steaks simply with arugula, olive oil, sea salt and a squeeze of fresh lemon. 11
A true Italian might argue a meal isn’t complete without at least five or six dishes to pass around. Pastas and entrees are often accompanied by contorni, which are smaller side dishes usually in the form of roasted vegetables.
Chef Keith Luce
Roasted Cauliflower with Salsa Verde Serves 4-6
Rosario Caputo, chef and owner of Cibo Bistro in Edmonton, says the name of his restaurant, which translates to food, is about just that — letting the food speak for itself. “We focus on seasonal, regional cuisines,” he says. “Every region is so different, but we usually focus on heavier fare from northern Italy in winter, and lighter fare from the south in summer.” Roasted eggplant, green beans and sweet root vegetables are all typical contorni, but Caputo says one of his favourites is cauliflower. An easy, delicious side dish or starter to make at home, Caputo says you can roast cauliflower in the oven with olive oil, salt, pepper and shallots, and finish with a bit of salsa verde. “Slow roast until it gets charred on the outside,” Caputo explains. “Serve it with green herb purée or substitute with pesto, and finish with Pecorino Romano. The fresh pop of the salsa and saltiness of the cheese really rounds out the entire dish.” Chef Rosario Caputo
2-3 cauliflowers florets, cut into bite-sized pieces 3 Tbs (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1 Tbs salt 1 tsp black pepper 85 g Pecorino Romano
Salsa Verde: What have we learned about Italian cooking so far? Other than eating (a lot), the entire foundation relies on simplicity. Having worked as a chef in Italy, Keith Luce — now the chef at Tavernetta in Calgary — says Italian cuisine is a style born of necessity, with a focus on quality (not quantity) ingredients.
1 clove garlic 1 Tbs capers 3 anchovies 1 parsley bunch ½ bunch of basil ½ cup (120 mL) extra virgin olive oil To taste salt and pepper
1. Preheat oven to 375º F. Place
cauliflower in a bowl, toss with salt, pepper and olive oil.
2. Place on baking sheet, bake in oven The entire foundation (of Italian cooking) relies on simplicity
“Italian was a cuisine of frugality,” he says. “Luckily for Italians, they had amazing natural resources, but not a tremendous amount of wealth. There wasn’t time to prepare because that bounty was their means of supporting their family and making ends meet.” And so for any chef making any Italian meal, Luce says the trick is exercising constraint and committing to only a few ingredients per dish. “Italian is one of those cuisines that really brings you back down to earth,” he says. “At the end of the day, taking raw ingredients and getting them to table with minimal manipulation (and having fun while doing it)… well, there’s nothing more Italian than that!”
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Try Cibo Bistro’s favourite contorni!
for 30 to 45 minutes, or until cauliflower is tender and golden on the outside.
3. Put all ingredients for salsa verde in a food processer. Chop until well mixed.
4. Spread a few spoonfuls of salsa verde
on a plate. Place roasted cauliflower on top. Finish with a few splashes of salsa on top, and grated Pecorino Romano.
Try Uccellino’s favourite late-night spaghetti!
Spaghetti with Anchovy & Pangrattato Serves 4
Pangrattato: 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil 1 clove garlic ½ cup day old bread, ripped into very fine pieces ½ tsp kosher salt
1. Heat olive oil in small, non-stick
pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and fry until it turns golden. Discard the garlic.
2. Add bread and kosher salt to pan,
turn heat down to medium. Cook until bread becomes golden. Add a little more oil while frying, if needed. Remove pangratto from pan until ready for use. Spaghetti: 500 g spaghetti ¹/³ cup (80 mL) olive oil 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 8 oil-preserved anchovies, finely chopped 2 cups (480 mL) dry white wine 1 tsp dried chili flakes 1 bunch Italian parsley, roughly chopped ½ cup Pecorino Romano, grated Kosher salt
1. Bring large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook spaghetti until al dente (about one minute prior to package
instructions). Save one cup of pasta cooking water and set aside.
or until sauce is just coating the pasta. Stir frequently.
2. While the spaghetti is cooking, heat
olive oil in large frying pan over mediumhigh heat. Add garlic and anchovies, and cook until garlic to turns golden. Add white wine and chili flakes, and cook for one to two minutes.
3. Once the pasta is cooked, drain and
drag it into the pan of sauce. Raise heat to high. Add half a cup of pasta cooking water and cook for an additional minute
A major misconception of pasta is that fresh is always superior
4. Remove from heat. Toss or stir
in parsley and Pecorino. Top with pangrattato and serve immediately.
Try Vaticano’s specialty butter for grilled meats!
1. Chop all ingredients very fine and
Anchovy Butter
2. Roll into tubes about the diameter
mix thoroughly.
Perfect over grilled swordfish 2 cups butter 1 Tbs minced garlic 24 anchovies, drained and minced 2 tsp paprika 2 Tbs (30 mL) lemon juice
of a large coin. Cover with plastic wrap, tie off ends and refrigerate.
3. Slice into discs to serve melting 1 Tbs minced parsley 1 Tbs lemon zest 1 tsp pepper
over grilled meats (or fish!).
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Try Mercato’s signature fish soup!
Zuppa di Pesce Serves 6-8
750 g manila clams Handful salt Pinch cornmeal 1.8 Kg canned plum tomatoes 60 g fresh garlic 70 g anchovy paste or fillets 200 g shallots 400 g spot prawns 30 g fresh parsley 40 g fresh basil ¾ cup (200 mL) olive oil 15 g chili flakes 1¾ cups (425 mL) white wine 1 Kg halibut fillet, large cubes 450 g fresh Roma tomatoes, large cubes 6½ cups (1.6 L) water 20 g kosher salt 1 lemon wedge
Tip: The actual cooking time is relatively short, so make sure you have everything ready to go ahead of time!
1. Purge clams of sand or grit, by
rinsing quickly and placing in a large bowl of cold water. Add a handful of salt and a pinch of cornmeal, and leave in fridge for two hours. Rinse clams thoroughly and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, purée canned
tomatoes with a hand blender or food processor until liquefied. Pass through sieve to strain out seeds. Set aside.
3. Finely mince garlic and anchovy
fillets (if you can’t find paste). Thinly slice shallots and rinse prawns well. Pick parsley and basil from stems, wash in cold water and pat dry.
4. Heat olive oil in a large, shallow
saucepot on medium heat. Add shallots, anchovy, parsley, chili flakes and sauté, stirring constantly. After a few minutes (when shallots begin to brown slightly), add garlic and cook for another minute.
Try Cotto’s tasty tortellini!
5. When garlic has just started to change colour, deglaze with wine.
4 cups all-purpose flour 4 large eggs
6. Add clams, halibut, prawns, pureed
1. Place flour in large mixing bowl
tomatoes, Roma tomatoes, water, and half the salt. Place lid on pot and simmer for five minutes, or until all the clams have opened.
7. Flake halibut by gently pressing
on each piece with the back of a large spoon. Check the seasoning, and adjust the consistency of the broth by adding more water or letting it reduce further. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and serve with crusty bread.
Three Cheese Tortellini with Butter Fondue Serves 4
Pasta:
and form a well. Add eggs to the well. Combine with a fork, moving the tines from the edge of the eggs towards the inside. You should have a smooth and pliable dough after five minutes of working the dough.
2. Stretch through a pasta roller until
the pasta is smooth and uniform. Cut pasta into your favorite shape and fill with homemade filling. Filling: ½ cup full-fat ricotta ½ cup mascarpone ½ cup Grana Padano 1 egg 2 Tbs breadcrumbs To taste salt and pepper
Combine all filling ingredients in mixing bowl. Set aside for at least a half hour, and then fill pasta. Fondue: ½ cup unsalted butter 1 Tbs (15 mL) water Pinch salt
In saucepot on low heat, emulsify butter with water. Season with salt. Drizzle on top of pasta, or pour into bowl for dipping! 14
Try Tavernetta’s mouth-watering braised beef!
Beef Brasato Serves 4-6
2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 boneless beef chuck roast 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 115 g sliced guanciale (or pancetta), finely chopped 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 2 celery ribs, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs fresh rosemary ½ cup whole, peeled San Mariano tomatoes in juice (crushed) 3 cups (1 bottle) Barolo or full-bodied red wine 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 bay leaf
1. Preheat oven to 325º F. Heat oil in heavy-bottomed pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking.
2. Pat meat dry, season with salt and pepper. Brown meat on all sides. Transfer to a draining pan or plate.
3. Add guanciale to pan. Slowly sauté
and render over medium-high heat until browned (about five minutes), stirring frequently. Add shallots, carrot, celery and sauté until vegetables soften and are golden brown, about 10 to 12 minutes.
4. Add garlic, thyme, rosemary and
sauté. Stir until garlic softens and turns golden, about two minutes. Stir in tomatoes and cook for one minute.
5. Add wine and boil until liquid is
reduced by half, about five minutes. Add water, bring to a simmer, and then return meat along with any juices to pot.
6. Cover pot with lid and transfer to
oven. Braise until meat is very tender, around three hours.
7. Transfer meat to cutting board. Skim fat from surface of sauce, and discard along with herb stems. Boil sauce until reduced by one third, about five minutes. Season with salt. Cut meat across the grain into 1 cm slices and return to sauce.
Note: This dish improves a day or two after preparing. Serve with soft polenta. Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City.
50TH ANNIVERSARY
MARCH 22-25
Food has always been the centrepiece for social interactions. The memories created over a plate of food are, let’s say… the cherry on top of a great meal! At this year’s 50th anniversary of the Edmonton Home + Garden Show, the cooking stage will showcase some of YEG’s best local chefs who will give you tips on how to hop on the “locavore” train and never get off. We sat down with Lawrence Hui of Ono Poke Co., Gloria Bednarz of The Art of Cake, and Alexis Hillyard, a local plant-based blogger to talk everything local foods in our city and their tips on how to eat local—and not die trying!
SAVE $5 BUY TICKETS ONLINE Promo code:
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Eating local has become an important value for many Canadians—the media has opened our eyes (and mouths) to the impact of food production. “People are caring more about what is going into their bodies,” explains Bednarz, “they are more concerned about where their ingredients are coming from. Social media has allowed us to see what’s offered in the local scene and what is important to the community.”
Tip #1: Shop Local You probably shop at the same grocery store every week— that’s because you’ve made connections with the people, the layout and the food! Bednarz explains, “People associate feelings with food and are very loyal to places that are familiar to them”. Alexis agrees, “We know what we like and are loyal to the places that meet our food-related needs.” We suggest frequenting Edmonton’s popular farmer’s markets to start your new connections. PRODUCED BY
“The success of farmer’s markets are because people want to know the person who picked the fruit or the person who made the jam,” explains Bednarz. Hui elaborates, “We even see it with local restaurant chefs in the city ordering their ingredients from local vendors” Shopping local also allows you to eat seasonably, which means the food tastes even better! Seasonable eating doesn’t have to be boring, it will help you get creative in the kitchen and you’ll feel good while doing it. “We take pride in knowing where our product is from and who crafted it,” says Bednarz. We’re talking bragging rights here, people!
There are local restaurants all around the city for every craving; you might just have to search for it! “We have so many great publications around town that are supporters of showcasing local talent,” says Hui. The YEG food scene is a close-knit community who are always open to giving their local recommendations. Bednarz agrees, “Know your sources and don’t be afraid to ask questions!”
Tip #2: Eat-Out Locally YEG’s food scene has evolved—we want to support local. What’s great is that our city’s palette is changing. “There are a lot more variety; the ethnic and cultural blends are all around!” says Bednarz. Hui agrees, “It’s great to see an abundance of new and innovative cuisine coming from new and established chefs.” Edmonton is also accommodating many different food preferences. “Restaurants are offering a wider range of products,” says Alexis, “and becoming more sensitive to dietary restrictions making it easier for everyone to eat locally.”
Eating local has such a wonderful impact on our city. It extends into our communities and bolsters our pride. Hui insists, “These local businesses all have huge growth potential, but are willing to support one another—we are local and we are here to do business with and for Edmonton!” When we support local businesses it progresses into better quality food, and even better memories! Why settle for just the cherry on top when you can have the sprinkles too? Curious to know more about eating local in Edmonton? Stop by the Edmonton Home + Garden Show, March 22-25 at the Edmonton Expo Centre.
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The Perfect Pizza by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
Pizza has a reputation for not being serious food — something to order for the kids when a babysitter is coming over, or to eat while sitting in front of the TV. But over the years, pizza in North America has earned some justifiable respect.
Many restaurants have turned to choosing thinner Italian-style crusts over the thick and greasy Greek-style crusts that many Albertans grew up on, cut down on the gloppy sauce, and refined toppings to train us to think beyond pepperoni and green pepper, or ham and pineapple. Restaurant pizza has upped its game, prompting many home cooks to try and replicate upscale pizza in their own kitchens. Creating pizza “perfection” is easier said than done, but with a little work you can make a pretty decent pie at home.
Find Your Inspiration Before starting your at-home pizza odyssey, it’s important to figure out 18
what kind of pizza you’re interested in making. Do you like a soft doughy crust or something crisp? Red sauce, white sauce, or a simple brush of garlic-spiked olive oil? Check out some renowned pizza spots like Una Pizza + Wine or Without Papers in Calgary, or Rosso or Leva in Edmonton. Take notes on things like the toppings to sauce ratio, how much (if any) cheese the chefs are using, so that you can tweak your own approach once you get back home.
The Equipment You don’t need a wood-fire oven to make a great pizza at home — it’s more than possible to pull off a passable pizza with a regular electric or gas range.
Crank the oven up as hot as it will go (most go to at least 450° F, though some will go up to 550° F) to cook your pizzas — it generally takes 10 to 15 minutes in a conventional oven.
An outdoor barbeque is really the best tool to make homemade pizza
If you have a pizza stone, leave it in the oven as it preheats. Preparing pizzas on parchment paper and then sliding them on and off the stone (paper and all) makes for easy cooking and saves the cook from having to hoist a red-hot pizza stone in and out of the oven. Cookie sheets will work in place of the pizza stone if you don’t have one handy. An outdoor barbeque is really the best tool to make homemade pizza if the weather is nice. The grill can get much hotter than your indoor oven, giving you a crisper crust that’s closer to the ones you’ll find in a wood-fired pizzeria. You can buy pans made specifically for cooking pizza on the barbeque, but if you want those nice char marks,
try cooking the dough directly on the grill. The dough should be liberally brushed with oil before it hits the grill; throw it on without toppings and grill on one side for two or three minutes before flipping it, and putting on the toppings (you’ll need to work quickly here). Close the lid and let the pizza cook for another three to five minutes, or until the crust is crisp and the cheese is melted.
The Crust There are a few ways to go about making a pizza crust — you can do it without yeast, but a proper yeasty dough is essential if you’re looking to recreate the kind of pizzas that you’ll find in your favourite restaurant. The following basic recipe will do the trick:
The Sauce This is where the pizza chef can start to get creative. There are as many red sauce recipes out there as there are pizza toppings — you can go slightly sweet, really spicy, laden with herbs or ultra-plain. Many pizza experts will advise not to cook the sauce and just blitz canned tomatoes in a food processor with the appropriate herbs.
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Homemade Pizza Dough Makes two pizza crusts
1 cup (240 mL) warm water 2 tsp active dry yeast 1 tsp sugar 2½ cups flour 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil (plus more for drizzling) 1 tsp salt
1. Place the warm water in a large bowl
and sprinkle it with the yeast and sugar. Let it sit for about five minutes to test if the yeast is active — it should get foamy. If it doesn’t, your yeast is not active and you’ll have to try again with fresh yeast.
A proper yeasty dough is essential
2. Add the flour, oil and salt to the
water and stir until you form a dough. If the dough is overly sticky, add some more flour.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly-floured surface (or to an electric mixer with a dough hook attachment) and knead for 8 minutes. Return to the bowl and drizzle some more oil over top, then cover with a tea towel. Place in a warm spot to let rise for one hour or until it has doubled in bulk.
research will come in handy — if flavour combinations worked for your favourite chef, they’ll likely work at home too. Stick with traditional cured meats or go for something different, like grilled steak or chicken. Pickled or roast vegetables can give a pizza a unique flavour, as can the odd bit of fruit, like thin apple or pear slices.
If you use rich, good quality ingredients, you won’t need to pile on the toppings
Uncooked sauce will keep the flavours brighter (and the sauce will cook down a bit as the pizza bakes anyway), but a more complex cooked sauce will work as well. But the number one perk of making your own pizza is that you don’t have to stick to plain red sauce. Pizza bianca refers to pizza with no sauce whatsoever — usually the addition of creamy cheese and other ultra-rich
ingredients is enough to make up for the sauce. Pesto, herb-infused olive oil, béchamel or even alternative sauces like butter chicken sauce or bacon jam are other possibilities for a personalized pizza.
The Toppings The crown of any pizza, the toppings, should be considered carefully. This is where any in-restaurant
And, unless you’re going vegan, don’t forget the cheese — mozzarella doesn’t have to be a given. Sub that mozza for another smooth, meltable cheese, like fontina or gruyere, or throw on little chunks of burrata or goat cheese. For a sparser pie, a generous sprinkle of Parmesan will do the trick. One thing to keep in mind with toppings: your pizza is only as good as the quality of your ingredients. To make a superior pizza, seek out high quality olive oil, cheese, meat, anchovies, and other ingredients, paying a visit to an Italian specialty shop if possible. A little will go a long way — if you use rich, good quality ingredients, you won’t need to pile on the toppings. Homemade pizza will never replace restaurant pizza — part of the draw of eating out or ordering in is that you don’t have to do any of the work yourself — but pizza satisfaction is definitely possible at home.
Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. Elizabeth is a published cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio. 20
educating Calgary palates since 2005
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12-day luxury wine and culinary tours Experience the beauty of Europe and discover the outstanding wine and food specialities in Portugal and Italy. These comprehensive tours include:
– Four star hotels – Excursions, winery visits and tastings with special Vine & Dine privileges in vineyards and castles – Visits to markets, castles, museums, and other cultural locations – Guided city tours – Plenty of time to shop and wander – Harvest and stomping grapes in Portugal! – And lots more…! – Places for couples, friends, and solos
To request an itinerary for these trips, visit:
vineanddine.ca or contact linda@vineanddine.ca 403-870-9802 Visit vineanddine.ca for food and wine events in Calgary too!
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World of Pasta-bilities: A Short Pasta Glossary by EVA COLMENERO photography by INGRID KUENZEL
350 – that’s the approximate number of pastas that exist in the world. Each kind of pasta serves its own purpose in the kitchen, based on the sauce it’s paired with. Long pastas go with lighter sauces, round pastas with chunkier ones, and small pastas work better in salads and soups. Unfortunately, not all pastas are available in Alberta, but we’ve rounded up some of the quirky, fun, or misunderstood ones that can be found in stores around the province to try for your next meal. Farfalle
Farfalle – Butterflies
Orecchiette – Little Ears
Commonly known as bow tie pasta, farfalle is made when a rectangle of pasta dough is pinched in the middle, giving its characteristic shape. It offers more pasta surface area, so light tomato or cheese sauces stick to it better than thick sauces, and it makes a great addition to pasta salads. Orecchiette
Casarecce – Homemade
Casarecce has a narrow, twisted, and rolled shape. It usually has a porous texture that, along with the groove in the middle, makes it perfect for heavier sauces. In its native Sicily, this pasta is usually topped with Sicilian pesto – a tomato-based sauce with basil and pine nuts, and an added hint of red pepper or chili flakes.
These little ears have a small depression in the middle, which makes a little cup that holds the flavour from the sauce. The shape is also perfect for dishes that use small chunks of vegetables and meats, as the pasta can hold them inside like a little bowl. It is believed this pasta has been around since the Middle Ages at least. It was also preferred during times of famine because the shape made the pasta dry quickly so it can be stored longer.
Fiocchetti – Little ribbons
A relative of Farfalle, Fiocchetti holds that pinched-in-the-middle bow shape, with a simple distinction: instead of being flat, each end is curved to make two small bowls.
Casarecce
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As with Orecchiette, this shape allows thick meat sauces and vegetables to find a home inside the dips in the pasta. Fiocchetti also goes by other names such as farfalle tondi, stricchetti tondi, and saliere.
Fiocchetti
Anellini – Little Rings
Anellini and their big brothers anelli, or rings, are shaped like thin rings of pasta. Despite their small size, they’re usually prepared baked in tomato sauce, and can also be tossed in a soup for extra texture. Soup giant Campbell’s SpaghettiOs has put this shape in the spotlight. Mix Annellini with ground meat, tomato sauce, and cheese, to make a great baked pasta dish.
Stelline – Little stars
A kiddie favourite in Italy, this star-shaped pasta is usually added to vegetable broths due to its tiny size. It also works well with other soups: creamy blended soups and rich chunky soups. Stelline can add visual interest to any dish, and is part of a bigger family called “pastina” – meaning little pasta. There are many different shapes made in tiny formats, from rings to squares to little macaroni, and they all find a home in minestrone.
Stelline
Cavatelli – Little Hollows
Cavatelli, unlike some pasta, is traditionally made without eggs, and so is slightly drier. Since it’s hollow in the middle, this pasta goes with thicker sauces, as pieces of vegetables and meat are held inside. It was believed that women with worn out thumbs from making cavatelli made the best wives, so brides in Italy had to show their thumbs to their mother-in-law to prove their skills!
Orzo – Barley
Orzo has a bit of an identity problem. Though shaped like a large grain of rice, and can be used in a risotto, orzo and rice don’t have anything else in common. This little pasta can be cooked in anything; it goes with any sauce, can be added to any soup, or baked as a casserole. It can be eaten hot or cold, as a main or a side dish… the possibilities are endless.
Anellini
Rotelle – Little Wheels
Shaped like a wagon wheel with six spokes, rotelle is versatile. It pairs well with tomato-, oil- and cream-based sauces, and can be as big as a quarter, which is perfect for baked pasta as it’s easy to grab with a fork. Also ideal in salads and soups, both the rugged texture on the outside and the hollow inside mean rotelle are ideal for trapping the sauce and any chunks of vegetables or meat.
Orzo Cavatelli
Rotelle
Eva Colmenero is a writer and editor based in Calgary. She would be a vegetarian, if bacon were a vegetable. Follow her on Twitter @evac88 23
Italy: Closer To Home Than You Think by LEILANI OLYNIK
What is the essence of Italian cooking?
The Italian Store
There are countless ways to prepare Italian classics, but one common thread in Italian cuisine is finding the best ingredients possible. So where does that begin? No one has ever described grocery shopping as ‘sexy’. Picking up ingredients for sustenance is a chore, and searching high and low for that recipe must-have can get a bit frustrating.
What if you were able to turn your weekly shopping trips into an adventure? You’ll most certainly find a can of Scarpone’s tomatoes (or beans or pesto or polenta!) at your local grocery store. They have been importing, packing, and distributing quality ingredients throughout Western Canada for 60 years, making it much easier to find some of the finest Italian and Mediterranean ingredients across four provinces. But what if, instead of it being a function of necessity, you were exploring exciting new additions to your pantry? What if you were able to turn your weekly shopping trips into an adventure? What if you were leveraging generations of experience and passion? That’s what you’re doing when you choose to shop at specialty grocers. Being warmly welcomed into a specialty shop, like The Italian Store, is unlike 24
walking through the doors of a catch-all supermarket. Not just because their staff may know you by name, but because they want to learn your name. They share with you their favourite new item, and can tell you how best to prepare it. They are a place where friends gather, where passionate staff share their expertise, where shopping becomes a culinary experience. They are a place where communities are made stronger by coming together to celebrate Italian culture. And they have the best Italian ingredients too. There is never a wishy-washy “to-may-toe/to-mah-toe” selection at specialty markets; each product on the shelves is carefully curated. A great deal of research goes into finding superior authentic Italian ingredients that will enhance your family’s favourite meals.
They care too much about the relationships they’ve built to let mediocre ingredients grace your table.
You are finding more than just ingredients; you’re celebrating a heritage The team at Lina’s Italian Market favour items that stay true to simplicity, while selecting the highest quality products. It’s the difference between a watery tomato sauce and a rich, silky sauce that coats pasta perfectly. Some items are even produced specifically for these specialty shops, like La Pavoncella plum tomatoes that are grown and packed near Naples, Italy, that are especially made for The Italian Centre Shop.
Lina’s Italian Market
Their staff is also carefully selected, groomed, and taken care of. And it shows. When Gino Marghella of the Italian Centre Shop opens his new favourite product because you just have to try it, when the butcher instructs you how to impress your dinner guests with a perfectly cooked porchetta, in Nonna’s infectious smile as she describes the new pizza she has created. There is pride down every aisle, in every product, in every smile. It is a true Italian experience. And when you visit small, family-owned specialty shops, you can be sure your hard-earned dollar is making a big impact. Your support means they can continue cultivating quality long-time staff, one of the cornerstones of what makes specialty markets so appealing. They can support small suppliers that would not be able to meet grocery
chain demands. They can offer unique experiences like holiday parties and Chef’s pop-up dinners. And they’re able to give back to the community with fundraisers and donations to those in need.
One common thread in Italian cuisine is: find the best ingredients possible Finding a superior quality product is definitely a draw to visiting specialty shops. But it’s more about the experience that these places offer. When you walk into Spolumbo’s, the sports-themed deli in the heart of Calgary’s historic Inglewood
neighbourhood, you get a sense that you are stepping into the worlds of Mike Palumbo and Tom and Tony Spoletini. Remo Trotta, sales and marketing manager, paints a picture of Spolumbo’s with Michelangelo-like ease: “(Our) hospitality looms as large as the enormous chalkboard menu that hangs proudly and prominent at the focal point of the room. You are immersed in the ‘Spolumbo’s vibe’ where Tony holds court on the dining room floor, while his Mamma makes your generous lunch and Tony’s dad playfully coordinates delivery orders with the staff. At some point while enjoying your delicious and satisfying meal, somewhere between admiring all the memorabilia and chatting up a friend or neighbouring table, you realize that you aren’t just witnessing the Spolumbo’s story, you are part of it.” You are part of a story. Let that sink in. When you visit a specialty Italian market, you are more than just a customer; you become a friend. You are finding more than just ingredients; you’re celebrating a heritage. You’re putting more than just a meal on your table; you’re making memories.
Italian Centre Shop
Wife, mother, and food lover, Leilani has a diverse background in digital marketing, writing, and event planning. She can be found buzzing around Calgary Farmers’ Market as their Marketing Coordinator. 25
Spice It Up: Tiramisu by MALLORY FRAYN
Tiramisu is a must-have dessert when you’re out for dinner at your favourite Italian restaurant, but for some reason it’s not typically made at home. It’s a surprise really, because it couldn’t be easier to make. At its most basic, tiramisu is alternating layers of coffee-soaked ladyfinger cookies, enveloped in whipped mascarpone cheese filling. Like cheesecake mousse meets sponge cake trifle, it’s both light and decadent at the same time, no-bake, and contains only a handful of ingredients. All of that combined, it’s the perfect dessert to spice up and add your own unique spin!
The Ladyfingers Called “savoiardi” in Italian, these “cookies” are more like bite-sized pieces of crunchy sponge cake. The key here is that they are quite dry, which prevents them from disintegrating entirely when dipped into the coffee. So anything you choose as a substitute should be equally lacking in moisture to allow for the right absorption factor. If you want to stay fairly traditional, you could try your hand at making your very
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own ladyfingers, which basically just entails whipping some eggs and sugar, folding in flour and cornstarch, piping them into fingers, and then baking until golden.
with a bit of sugar, and a smidge of something boozy. That can range from flavoured liqueurs like Kahlua or Tia Maria, to fortified wines like marsala, madeira, or port.
It’s both light and decadent at the same time
Thankfully, Alberta offers plenty of local spirits you can swap in that will definitely do the trick, some of which include:
Alternately, there are a plethora of other cookie favourites to use in their place. Crunchy gingersnaps add a nice, spicy kick, while chocolate wafers are the perfect cocoa-y pairing with coffee.
–– Fallentimber Mead’s Pyment, which is made from a blend of Alberta honey and British Columbia cabernet sauvignon grapes, making for a mead that drinks more like a port
Depending on the thinness of your cookie of choice, just be careful to moderate how long you dip it in the coffee for, lest you be left with mush.
–– Field Stone Fruit Wine’s selection of dessert wines, ranging from raspberry to wild cherry (both of which would pair well with coffee)
The Coffee Syrup
–– Village Blacksmith beer, reduced down with sugar to make a fulsome beer and coffee syrup
Typically the mixture used for dipping the ladyfingers is strong cold coffee,
–– Rig Hand Craft Distillery Double Double Coffee Cream, like the Tim Horton’s order, but boozier! They also make “Brum” which is like rum but made from sugar beets instead of cane sugar
Other fresh cheeses, like ricotta or quark can also be used, either to replace the mascarpone in your recipe, or by adding just a touch to lighten it up. Admittedly mascarpone can be a tad heavy on it’s own, so you could even fold in Greek yogurt or Skyr (Icelandic yogurt) to help cut it, and add additional tang. As for what flavourings to add into that mascarpone mixture, it really depends which way you’ve chosen to go with the cookies and syrup. If you’re sticking with coffee and booze, a chocolate mousse-like mascarpone
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Mascarpone is a treat, but there are plenty of other ways you can accomplish a similar, creamy filling for your tiramisu. For those who love cheesecake and prefer the flavour of standard cream cheese, it’s an easy substitution.
Culinaire Mag tbd
The Filling
filling could be ideal, either mixed with cocoa powder or swirled with melted chocolate, dark or milk. If you’ve opted for a tea or citrus syrup instead, think about complementary flavours for the filling. Crystallized ginger, candied nuts, or even fresh herbs, like mint or basil, are all good candidates. Publication Insertion Date
Warm spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, cardamom, and five spice are all on the table. Or you could go fruity, with winter citrus like grapefruits and oranges. As the other main ingredients (ie. ladyfingers and mascarpone) are so neutral, the syrup is a great place to get creative. The sky’s the limit!
You don’t have to go crazy. Original tiramisu is just coffee, ladyfingers, and mascarpone, so a little tweak to any one of those three components and you’re already well on your way to spicing things up! HP-0054-17 Selkirk Grille ad
You could stay in the realm of caffeinated beverages with an Earl Grey tea or a matcha syrup, or infuse basic simple syrup with any number of herbs and spices.
Tobias Larcher
Here are a few more suggested combos to get you started: Client/Project Code Project Description
Also, if coffee isn’t your thing, you can always go in a completely different direction and make the flavoured syrup of your choice.
Chef de Cuisine
–– traditional ladyfingers, matcha syrup, white chocolate mascarpone –– chocolate wafers, vanilla coffee syrup, peanut butter mascarpone –– ginger cookies, brown sugar chai tea syrup, orange zest mascarpone Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat
Learning From The Best: Cooking Pasta by EVA COLMENERO
Cooking pasta is so simple, some may think that there isn’t much more to it than boiling it in water, and they’d be right. We asked three of Calgary’s top Italian chefs for advice on how to cook perfect pasta, to make sure the simple steps are done correctly and to take your pasta dishes from good to excellent!
The water:
To drain or not to drain?
Chef Batey: “Enough water for the pasta to freely move, to avoid clumping. The water should taste like the ocean.”
On choosing pasta:
Chef Manzer: “Even if the package says five litres for a whole pack of pasta, I would go a little bit more. I don’t like adding the salt until the water is boiling.”
Chef Batey: “Make sure to always save a little bit of the water because that water has all the starch, and that can be a little nice addition to the sauce.”
Matt Batey, Executive Chef of the Teatro Group: “What you purchase is what you get, but at the end of the day, pasta is just a nice vehicle to enjoy the sauce and the garnish.” Glen Manzer, Executive Chef of Creative Restaurants: “Really it comes down to how you like it. To me, the more texture on the noodle, the better the sauce is going to adhere to it.” Mario Flaviano, Chef of Franca’s Italian Specialties: “I think it’s all about preference.”
Chef Flaviano: “Enough water to cover all of the pasta. Salt to taste.”
How do we know when the pasta is done? Chef Batey: “When it has a bit of a bite to it, and the only way to check is if you have a little taste. Most pastas have a recommended time, so start checking just before the minimum time.” Chef Manzer: “Base it on what the packaging says, but always taste it. Everyone’s version of al dente is different, but I’d cook it until it is, as they say, (hard) to the tooth.”
Chef Manzer: “Keep some of the pasta water in case your sauce gets too thick.” Chef Flaviano: “Keep some water if you are cooking other dishes with the pasta. If you are making only pasta, then drain it.”
Common mistakes? Chef Batey:“Not having enough water. Putting noodles in water that isn’t boiling. Not enough salt.” Chef Manzer: “Overcooking– pay attention to your pasta.” Chef Flaviano: “Overcooking. Not enough salt.”
Extra Tips: Chef Batey: “As much care and attention needs to go into the garnish as it does all the other considerations. Some fresh herbs and a good olive oil to finish the pasta can take it to the next level.” Chef Manzer: “The best is what you think is the best. Experiment and don’t be afraid to make mistakes.” Chef Flaviano: “Have fun with different types of pasta. Enjoy and create different dishes. Use all types of pasta or brands until you find the one you like the most.”
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Cocktail Italiani:
Creative Italian Coffee Cocktails by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Italy’s coffee culture is world-renowned, and almost a daily ritual – cappuccino with breakfast, macchiato in the afternoon, and espresso to complete your dinner. We asked two Alberta mixologists to use their skill, knowledge, and experience to create Italian coffee cocktails for us to make at home, and kick up our after dinner drinks many notches!
Graham Teare
Cardinale, Calgary “At Cardinale, we prefer our cocktails on the bitter end of the scale,” says partner and general manager, Graham Teare. “Therefore, bitter chocolate and coffee are to blame for this one.”
Cardinale’s cocktail combines two very different amari (bitters) with Italian whisky; coffee liqueur Lucano Caffè has hints of cocoa and vanilla, while herbal liqueur Fernet Branca is made from 27 herbs, roots and spices, and is more bitter. “We use Lucano Caffè in the kitchen as well as the bar as it provides a less sweet coffee flavour to cocktails and desserts,” says Teare. “Mint forward amaro, Fernet Branca, and fresh mint combine with chocolate bitters and orange blossom for a classic pairing.” “Finally, there’s a touch of smoke from Puni Alba, a Northern Italian whisky, aged in Marsala and Islay casks, which leaves an off-dry and smoky characteristic that really rounds out the finish.” Teare’s “After 8½” cocktail is a perfect after dinner cocktail or pick-me-up when you’re feeling sluggish.
After 8½ 1 oz Lucano Caffè ¾ oz Fernet Branca ½ oz Puni Alba Whisky 1½ oz chilled espresso 5 dashes Scrappy’s Chocolate Bitters 3 dashes Orange Blossom Water Sprig of mint to garnish
Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker, add ice and shake vigorously. Double strain through a fine strainer into a coupe or small wine glass. Garnish with a sprig of mint and serve.
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Erick Rosende
Buco Pizzeria + Vino Bar, Edmonton “Buco Pizzeria specializes in sharing “little tastes” with family and friends, so our Amore Dolce (Sweet Love) after dinner dessert cocktail was created to be a “little taste” to enjoy with others,” says Erick Rosende, Sorrentino Restaurant Group’s corporate mixologist. Frangelico is a hazelnut liqueur, and Amore Dolce is a lively and flavourful, modern Italian cocktail, with sweet notes of hazelnuts, rich chocolate, espresso coffee, and a creamy mouthfeel. See page 32 for more on Frangelico.
“Nutella is the world’s favourite hazelnut spread, and we have added Nutella to this cocktail to create a refreshing flavourful experience," says Rosende. “Star Anise has a black liquorice aroma that is used as a garnish to top off this smooth, sweet cocktail.”
It's perfect with tiramisu, biscotti, pieces of chocolate, fresh berries and nuts
This creamy Italian dessert cocktail is delightful on its own, but Amore Dolce is also perfect with tiramisu, biscotti, pieces of chocolate, fresh berries and nuts.
Amore Dolce 1 oz Frangelico 2 Tbs (1 oz) cream or half and half 1 Tbs Nutella 1 oz Espresso 3 drops of Chocolate Bitters 1 cup cubed ice Star anise to garnish
Add all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake well. Strain and pour into either four liqueur glasses or one Martini glass, and garnish with star anise.
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Spirits Of Italy by LINDA GARSON
If you haven’t been to Italy or spent time trying them, understanding Italy’s many distilled spirits can be confusing. Let’s shed some light on several uniquely Italian liqueurs... Amaro
Amaretto
Meaning “bitter”, an amaro is traditionally served after the meal to help digestion and alleviate that bloated and stuffed feeling when you’ve overindulged. It’s becoming popular in Alberta as a pleasurable post-prandial sipper now, and for mixing in any number of cocktails.
Here’s where it can get confusing, as “etto” at the end of a word means “little”, making amaretto the “little bitter” for the bitter almonds it’s made from – not to be mistaken with “amarone” – the “big bitter” wine of Valpolicella, or “amaretti”, the almond cookies from the region.
Amari (the plural of amaro) are made from herbs, flowers, roots, and bark, macerated in alcohol, and can be aged in barrels or in the bottle. They’ll likely have a heavier and more syrupy texture, and be sweetly bitter.
While mostly made from almonds, amaretto can also be made from apricot kernels, and is regularly used in desserts, particularly to complement chocolate dishes, as well as mixed with whipped cream, and in tiramisu.
Try Nonino Amaro Quintessentia Quintessentia is Nonino’s grappa infused with liquorice, rhubarb, saffron, sweet orange, and tamarind, as well as other roots and spices from the Alps nearby, and aged in barrels for five years. It has an immediately likeable burnt orange flavour. CSPC + 707179 700 mL $50
Try Berta Amaretto di Mombaruzzo In its square, heavy glass bottle encased in a special box, Berta amaretto is an elegant infusion of sweet and bitter almonds aged in small cherry wood barrels. A very fine and elevated example of this liqueur. CSPC +745517 700 mL $68
Frangelico Now making a comeback, Frangelico is the retro-cool liqueur in the funky monk’s habit bottle, made from the outstanding Tonda Gentile hazelnuts that grow abundantly in the area around Alba, in northwest Italy. It’ll come as no surprise that this is the home of Michele Ferrero, who created both Nutella and Ferrero Rocher chocolates because of the quality of the hazelnuts in this area. Frangelico combines the nuts with coffee, cocoa, and vanilla, for a sweet liqueur that can be enjoyed in many different ways. Try it with mezcal, a fine tequila, or add it in your coffee with cream – it may be your next favourite liqueur coffee! CSPC + 735251 Around $30
Grappa The name “Grappa” has been protected by the EU for almost 30 years, for spirits made from pomace – the grape skins, stalks, and pits left after making wine. A second distillation extracts more flavours, and then it can be bottled straight away for Grappa Bianca (white grappa), or aged in barrels for the browncoloured “Riserva”. Its home is the old town of Bassano del Grappa, in northeast Italy, and it is one of Italy’s most popular digestifs, with around forty million bottles produced
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each year by the hundred-plus producers across the country.
Sambuca, have in common? They are all Mediterranean liqueurs based on the essential oil of distilled star anise. And all are able to be “louched” – they turn cloudy when water is added, and the oils are released.
Many Italians serve young grappa straight from the freezer, but serve riserva at a cool room temperature, around 17º C. Try Poli Sarpa Grappa This young grappa is distilled from the fermented pomace (or “sarpa”) of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot grapes, which gives a herbal aroma that translates to honey and dark fruits on the palate. CSPC +377440 700 mL $53-$58
Limoncello
Almost every Italian family has their own limoncello recipe of lemon peel, alcohol, and sugar, some passed down for generations, although the name only became a registered trademark 30 years ago.
Almost every Italian family has their own limoncello recipe of lemon peel, alcohol, and sugar
Sambuca is uniquely Italian, and regularly served with three coffee beans floating on top, reputedly to represent happiness, prosperity, and good health, (or “con la mosca” – with a fly – just one coffee bean). You’ll often see the coffee beans set on fire to toast them, which looks very impressive!
preservatives, and using twice as many lemons as standard. CSPC +740112 $40
Sambuca What do Pastis, Anisette, Ouzo, Arak, Raki, Absinthe, Galliano, and
Try Luxardo Sambuca dei Cesari Luxardo make a range of sambucas including raspberry, spiced apple, passione nera (black), and sambuca cream (which is a wonderful addition to the mascarpone in your tiramisu, or in your coffee instead of sugar). Sambuca dei Cesari is intensely liquorice, sweet and strong, and velvety smooth. CSPC + 40196 $26
A True Classic. Redefined. A nod to the past, with a tip of the hat to today.
The gnarly-skinned lemons along the Amalfi coast around Ravello, Capri, and Sorrento, are particularly prized, and are now a strictly controlled, protected geographical indication (IGP). Served your limoncello well chilled, even straight from the freezer, as a palate cleanser or refreshing after dinner drink. Try Profumi della Costiera Limoncello Costiera Limoncello is the pucker stuff, a clean and pure liqueur made from only the peel of lemons from around the town of Ravello, with no additives or
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Viva In Italia! by MARCIA J. HAMM
Italy has over 590 registered grape varieties with around 500 still to be formally identified. That’s already over 1000 different varieties from ONE country! Such an amazing choice of grapes can be a little overwhelming, but there are some great stores that specialize in wines made from native grapes that can help. Seek them out, ask questions, and you may just find a new favourite.
Garganega
One of Italy’s oldest and most important grape varieties, it’s well known for its wines of Soave and Gambellara in the Veneto region. In years past, quantity overruled quality with high yielding harvests and copious amounts of not-sogreat-wine being made. But advances in winemaking along with managing 34
yields, some would argue that 100 percent garganega wines are among the best in Italy, producing not only still wines, but sweet wines from airdried grapes. Recioto di Soave and Recioto di Gambellara are honeyed and floral, with Gambellara showing more of a mineral edge. Dry wines from Soave, will have golden delicious apple aromas, stone fruits, hay, and the typical steely nose that you will find from grapes grown in volcanic soil. In Alberta, it’s hard to find some of the sweet styles of Soave, but there’s lots of good quality, dry Soave wines to be found in all price points.
Wines to try
Inama CSPC +709522 about $31
or Dal Cero Soave CSPC +765314 about $22
Pra ‘Otto’ CSPC +779676 about $27
Montepulciano
Don’t confuse the village of Montepulciano in Tuscany, where wines are made from sangiovese, with the montepulciano grape grown along the Adriatic coast.
Wine made from montepulciano grapes can be pretty amazing Montepulciano can be difficult to grow due to its uneven veraison (when the grapes start to change colour), but also the pips struggle to reach phenolic ripeness (the pips, if not ripe, can lead to bitter, astringent wine). However, wine made from montepulciano grapes can be pretty amazing, from light and easy going with cherry fruit and blood orange, to rich and robust with flavours of ripe red cherry and lots of herbal nuances, along with the significance of oak.
Wines to try
Verdicchio
Many of the native grapes of Italy have many synonyms, and this grape is no exception. Known as trebbiano di Soave in the Veneto region, it is more widely known as verdicchio and widely grown in the Marche, on the Adriatic coast. The quality of wine made from this grape is exceptional, with two areas of Castelli di Jesi (Reserva) and Matelica (Riserva) sporting the DOCG designation. It’s easy to grow, adaptable, ripens evenly, holds its high acidity, and is one of the few white grapes capable of ageing. Not known for using oak, producers will age the wine on the lees, (the dead yeast cells), which provides texture and complexity to the wines. Verdicchio from Jesi tends to be lighter and more floral, while from Matelica, they will have more alcohol, acidity and more of that minerality note. Both, however, will have the telltale, bitter almond note that many associate with any Italian white wine. As verdicchio ages, expect to have the bitter almond turned to sweet marzipan notes along with sponge toffee and butterscotch, with a full round mouth feel.
Wines to try
Upholding The Tradition Red Cup Distillery is a craft distillery in Vegreville using local grain, in house green malt and prairie moonshine recipes in a locally made 250 and 1,000-gallon Edmonton-made pot stills. Available in liquor stores across Alberta.
Contea di Bordino CSPC +780309 about $19
Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra CSPC +741457 $24
or Tiberio CSPC +781515 about $30
or Bucci CSPC +706987 about $56
www.redcupdistillery.ca Montepulciano is also known for making Cerasuolo, the deeply coloured wines that we might call rosé. Try Il Feuduccio CSPC +744709 about $24.
or Marotti Campi Salmariano CSPC +755587 $30.
@redcupdistillery RedCupDistillery2015 Vegreville, Alberta, Canada
Greco
This actually comes from a group of grapes (meaning there is more than one Greco), which can be confusing. The names of these Grecos might be the same, but they are not related. The grape is not greco di Tufo, nor is it greco bianco, just… greco. Greco di Tufo, (the wine; Greco from Tufo) is one of Italy’s most famous wines and amongst some of the best Italian whites. Grown in Campania, along the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, the grapes are blessed with southern exposures that are ideal for proper ripening. Other than two Grand Cru areas, and one Premier Cru, the grape literally grows everywhere in the region. The wine itself is easily recognizable in the glass for its very yellow hue, notes of tropical fruit, yellow flowers and honey on the nose and in the mouth. It’s one of the few white grapes that have tannins (the drying sensation found in red wine, coming from the skins of the grapes). If you’ve been to the Amalfi Coast on vacation, you’ve probably tasted greco.
Wines to try
Matilde CSPC +736675 about $27
Nerello Mascalese
Grown (mostly) on the southern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, one of the only stillactive volcanoes in the world, vines grow here even at a thousand meters above sea level. The grapes get a lot of sun at these elevations, and can suffer sunburn. The nerello mascalese vine goes through a lot of stress – spring rains, summer heat, more rain just before harvest, and of course that smoking gun in the background – Mount Etna. All the effects of the climate and weather play a part in the size, weight and ripening of the berries.
The taste of the finished product is very much worth the effort Even at full ripeness, tannins are always a concern, so in the winery, fermentation temperatures must remain low and crush times at a minimum. It can be finicky, but the taste of the finished product is very much worth the effort. The colour is pinot-esque in the glass, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, herbs, tobacco, smoke, and some flintypencil shaving-minerality that comes from the volcanic soil. It’s amazing that a grape going through so much stress can make an outstanding wine.
Wines to try
or Mastroberardino CSPC +719176 about $28
or something different, try a sparkling version – the Dubl Greco from Feudi di San Gregorio CSPC +738427 about $47 36
Try Cantolio Vero CSPC +792727 about $23
Negro Amaro
When most see the word amaro, what comes to mind is bitter. The words ‘negro’ and ‘amaro’ derive from Greek and Latin words that mean ‘black’, describing the colour of the berries, and thus its name. Also note the spelling of the grape – two words separated by a space, which is the correct spelling, although many (even in Italy) get it wrong and spell it as one word. Grapevines can be found all over Puglia (the ‘heel’ of Italy’s boot), but mainly in the southern third of the region. Typical aromas include black fruit, tobacco, and an interesting note of shoe polish! Expect to taste a rich wine that’s full of black fruits, thick in the mouth, but not too tannic – a perfect wine to enjoy in our Alberta winters, as it will truly warm you from the inside out.
Wines to try
Try Planeta CSPC + 756144 $39
or Castellaro Ottava (with 20% Nero D’Avola) CSPC +793795 about $33 Curiousity factor is indeed high when it comes to native grapes, and many are seeking out something different and unique rather than the same old chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon or malbec. Ask your local boutique wine retailer about some of these and take a chance on something you’ve never tried before – you might be surprised to find a new favourite. Salute!
From the Editors: Many of these wines and grapes aren’t at every liquor store, definitely ask for suggestions at your favourite local! or Montemajor Torre del Serpente CSPC +782736 about $27
Marcia is a lover of wine, life and people. On warm days, she might be found in her backyard hammock sipping on an Aperol Spritz or something else with ice.
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Spring Break! by TOM FIRTH
Well… maybe not everyone A bit spicy on the palate to go with those tropical flavours, and a little heat gets to take a little spring feels apparent (though only 40 percent break, but if you do manage ABV) before finishing on a sweet note. Delicious for sure… to take some time off or CSPC +710296 $56-$60 escape to a warmer climate Ron Abuelo 12 Year Old for a getaway, there is a Gran Reserva good chance rum is (or Panama should be) on the agenda. I first discovered this rum during my Whether a mojito, a daiquiri, or a piña colada appears in your sunscreen-laden hands or not, rum evokes warm weather like no other spirit. I loved these ones neat, but that isn’t to say they couldn’t find a nice home in a good glass with a little mix.
Zaya Gran Reserva Rum
Trinidad Easily recognized for its imposing bottle, Zaya is a blend of 12 different rum stocks and made entirely from cane syrup (rather than molasses); aromatic and tropical on the nose, with banana bread, roasted nuts, toffee, and butterscotch.
38
honeymoon to Panama, and can certainly attest to its mixability, but also its bright citrusy characters, brown sugar, and spicy nose, while on the palate, rich and caramel-laden, evoking just a smidge of molasses, candy and smoke. Great neat, but perfect for some cola too. CSPC +238584 $33-$37
St. Lucia Chairman’s Reserve “The Forgotten Casks” Rum
St. Lucia Deeply evocative of cigar boxes and tropical wood, this is a rum for the senses. Lemons, clove, oranges, toffee, and honeycomb, dominate the remainder of the nose. Running hot in the mouth with molasses flavours lending smokiness and
earthiness before finishing on something akin to liquorice allsorts. Fine stuff, but best for mixed drinks that need the rum to still be apparent. CSPC +749269 $54-$56
Appleton Estate Anniversary Blend “Joy” Rare Jamaican Rum
Jamaica “Joy” is a tribute to master blender, Joy Spence, celebrating her 20 years at Appleton. With a minimum age of 25 years in the bottle, many of the stocks that comprise the blend are much older. It’s a little earthy and there are some leather tones, but oranges and butter ripple come right to mind. Overall, the nose is ever evolving and each sniff (of which I’ve enjoyed about 30 so far) is a little different. Spicy, rich, and even a little potent, brown sugar comes to mind on the palate, but the buttery warmth of the rum is so much more. CSPC +1141027 about $300
El Dorado 21 Year Old Demerara Rum
Guyana A wonderfully aged, smoky and rich rum – alive with nuance and flavour. While showing the age statement of 21 years on the label, the blend is built around several casks with a minimum age of 21. Honey and cooked sugar flavours are well balanced by citrus and spice. Wonderfully smooth, with a fine, sweeter finish. CSPC +730868 $81-$85
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Making The Case: For Italian Wine by TOM FIRTH
Vino Italia! Italy claims to have some of the finest wines in the world, and who could disagree?
Italian wines authentically speak to their history, which touches on their identity as a nation, but also their cuisine, and love of familystyle dining.
A bevy of regions to discover, an abundance of indigenous grapes, and some of the most dynamic wine-producing climates helps for sure, but it is also history that comes into play.
While many of the wines that follow would be a natural pairing with Italian-style cooking, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be just as likely to recommend most with great ingredients, simply prepared.
Masi 2011 Serego Alighieri Estate Vaio Amarone, Veneto, Italy One of the fruitiest, tootiest amarones in these here parts. Super abundant berry fruits, with candied cherries, smoke and raisins. Easily approachable now, but given 3-5 years for the fruit to settle down some, it will emerge in a fine place. CSPC +504878 $70-75
Poderi Colla 2013 Roncaglie Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy Black fruits and strong savoury herb and spice on the nose lead off over black liquorice powder earthiness. Mid-weight on the palate with leaner tannins and overall, just a prime example of what this grape is capable of. Match with robust meaty dishes like lasagna, Irish stews, or roasts of all types. CSPC +795264 $60
Tommasi 2012 Amarone Veneto, Italy
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine 40
Big and bold with gently raisined fruit aromas, charred cherries and a touch of cocoa on the nose. Big, but smooth, tannins balance the rich, abundant flavour that fills the palate. A little â&#x20AC;&#x153;drierâ&#x20AC;? than other Amarone examples, would work very well with braised meats, or roasts. CSPC +356220 $52 (Also available in 375mL bottles)
Argiolas 2016 Costamolino Vermentino Sardinia, Italy
Kris 2015 Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy
Pio Cesare 2013 Barolo Piedmont, Italy
Green apple skins, peaches, and pears dominate the nose, but well balanced by salinity, spice and mineral. Crisp and fresh on the palate too, it’s a grape that more people should try. Being grown in a coastal region, this would be a fine pairing for sushi, scallops, or simply prepared poultry. CSPC +466003 $25
Who says pinot grigio can’t be exciting to drink? Peach and nectarine fruits on the nose with apple, honey, and a touch of mineral lead into a mid-weight palate of crisp melon and pear fruits with more of those nectarines and peaches. No food required, but it does taste even better with your feet up. CSPC +716302 $16
A blockbuster bottle, sure to impress at any stage of its development. Look for strawberry, with spice box, leather, and raspberry juice aromas, while on the palate the flavour profile shows good balance between fruit and savoury tones. All the elements are sound and balanced indicating that this should cellar exceptionally well. CSPC +758948 $95
Poderi Colla 2015 “Costa Bruna” Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy
Rivera 2011 Il Falcone Puglia, Italy
Tabarrini 2015 Adarmando Bianco Umbria, Italy
Utterly captivating example of barbera d’Alba with cherries and dried raspberries driving the fruit on the nose, while on the palate excellent depth and pleasing tartness to the fruit are well structured to the acids and tannin. Very well priced and exciting to drink, pair with virtually any dish that will show a little meatiness, or pastas with pancetta in the ingredients. CSPC +795262 $32
A blend of nero de Troia and montepulciano, Il Falcone is one of the flagship wines from Puglia in our market. Earthy and savoury, with hints of smoke and leather, it’s balanced by black fruits and chewy tannins right through to the long, long finish. Would sing best with beef roasts or seared cuts, but if game is your thing, this will do very nicely indeed. CSPC +774513 $23
A trebbiano spoletino from Umbria that speaks of authenticity and place. Personally, I love the bright citrus tones, mineral notes, and slightly silky characters that go right to the very end of the long finish. Food wise, I think it would be just at ease with poultry in light sauces as grilled scampi or full flavoured sea foods. CSPC +789048 $34
Barone Ricasoli 2013 Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy
Michele Chiarlo 2013 Cerequio Barolo Piedmont, Italy
Ah, Chianti Classico, the quintessential Italian wine, expressive sour cherry fruits, a touch of canvas and herb with a subtle touch of farm animal on the nose. Tight and lively on the palate though with good flavours, the right amount of tannin and acid beckons for your next pasta night, spaghetti Bolognese perhaps? CSPC +792786 $34
A single vineyard Barolo, much like Cannubi or Serralunga, but less common on our shores, the Cerequio is surprisingly elegant for the lurking monster that is Barolo. Fresh blackberries, herb leaf, spice box, cherry, on the nose, while in the mouth it’s wonderfully expressive and quite youthful. Buy, drink a few, and cellar the rest. You’ll be glad you did over the next 10 years or so. CSPC +749893 around $150
Carpene Malvolti NV 1898 Extra Dry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Veneto, Italy One of the finest proseccos coming out of the region these days, the flavours are crisp and tropical with an easy creaminess in the mouth and a touch of nectarine on the finish. Top quality prosecco from a solid producer. Easy enough to enjoy on its own, it would easily complement lighter seafoods or a night in with friends. CSPC +745114 $23 41
Currently the very impressive cellar has close to 10,000 bottles, although when buying en primeur (wine futures), it has been as high as 16,000. “By buying at the best price we can assure the trust of our clients,” says Berloni. “Good taste has no frontiers. That’s why we have wines not only from Italy but from everywhere in the world, and we’re trying to bring to our clients the balance between good value and quality, and perfect cellaring, so when you come here so you know you are getting the best possible bottle.” So what bottle is he saving for a special occasion?
Open That Bottle story by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“We have the best selection of large format bottles (at Teatro) as I call myself a bon vivant, which is about sharing and enjoying the finer things in life – but not by yourself,” says Dario Berloni, President of Teatro Group. “And if you have so many friends like I have, “We have an invested interest, and you need a big bottle,” he adds smiling. we will do whatever is best,” Berloni says. “The restaurant was best for Born and raised in Pesaro, on Italy’s the building and the building was the Adriatic Coast, Berloni moved to Canada best for the restaurant. It's hard to hoping to follow in his businessman father’s separate it, because buildings like this, footsteps, studying business administration which is a provincial historic resource, and finance at university in Montreal. He do have higher operating costs. The was hired in Calgary in 1982, and seven maintenance here is (and he makes a years later bought the Teatro building. grand gesture) …cumbersome.” After extensive refurbishments, the restaurant opened in 1993. “We went through a time of exuberance,” he adds. “There was a time that Calgary “I was a minority partner in a group of was really the best place in the country restaurants that included Mescalero, to do business, and it's not anymore. I Divino, River Café, and Teatro, and wish for someone to pay attention to that eventually the partnership went their way because some is indeed borne of world and I ended up being the sole owner of events, but some is homemade.” Teatro,” he explains. Teatro was the outright winner of Now 25 years later, Teatro is still strong Culinaire’s Best Wine List in Alberta, even in Calgary’s yo-yo economy, and the as well as the Most Comprehensive group has grown to seven restaurants. Wine List and Best Vertical Selection. 42
Berloni picks up the bottle of Ornellaia 2010 sitting on the table in front of us. “I chose this for a number of reasons, but not least is that this bottle is the 25-year celebration of Ornellaia, and because this year is going to be our 25th anniversary,” he says. “And furthermore, the Frescobaldi family, which owns Ornellaia, are my personal friends. They’re lifelong friends; I went to school with some of them so we’ve been in touch forever. And I have selected this wine for its quality and its significance to the Italian wine industry.” Without a doubt, Ornellaia is one of Italy’s most well-respected wines. A Bordeaux-style blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 4% cabernet franc, and 4% petit verdot, the 2010 vintage was among the latest ripening in recent years. Winemaker, Axel Heinz, describes the palate as “finesse par excellence,“ and one of the most elegant expressions of the wine. And when will Berloni open it? “The 25th Anniversary Edition 2010 Ornellaia, is the perfect wine for me to open in October on the 25th anniversary of this restaurant, and reflect back on the journey that Teatro has taken me on,” he says.
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