464
SANTO
DOMINGO.
grasped the hand of a stalwart merchant, the last to go over the side, he said, " Remember me to H ; tell him Hayti hasn't changed for the better; that, bad as things were when he was here twenty years ago, they are to-day ten times worse." Alas I poor Hayti I But now we are clear of the deck, tears are shed, handkerchiefs waved, and at last we are steaming over the beautiful bay to Gonaives, our last place to visit in Hayti. With placid sea and soft skies I find it more agreeable to swing my hammock on deck for the night than to go below in the cabin. Many of the passengers think as I do, and stretch themselves on deck, being protected from night dews by the awning; therefore we are all ready, when day breaks, to get the first glimpse of the little town of Gonaives, which, though situated in a beautiful bay, offers nothing very attractive in its landscape sur足 roundings. The anchor dropped, a party of us were 60on ashore in the fresh early morning, being received at the landing by a German merchant, who acts as Consul for the United States. Then we saunter through the great, wide, hot streets of the town, that looks as if it were originally intended to be a place ten times its size. W e went into the large church filled with its dusky devotees ; and while my devout com足 panion says her morning prayers, I occupy myself in studying out the problem of the church architecture and decoration, and the authorship of some of the paintings upon the walls. Then a stroll through the market-place, with its country people dealing in small supplies; through the " Place," with its one tomb or monument to a defunct Colonel Somebody, and we have seen the entire town of Gonaives, and are ready to enjoy the hospitalities of the tasteful and comfortable mansion of the Consul, presiding over which is his charming wife. Yet Gonaives is a place of some importance in the