3o6
CAMPS IN THE CARIBBEES.
dez ! Fort vent ! Coup dc vent ! " —" Look out ! Strong wind ! A squall." And when the wind struck the boat, instead of luffing, they had three negroes swinging at the ends of three ropes attached a little more than half-way up the mast, who, with feet braced against the rail, would sway their bodies out over the water, and thus restore the equilibrium when she heeled. It was a novel and interesting sight, but one calculated to excite reflection, when wind should prove stronger than African, with the sheets made fast, a stubborn helmsman hanging to the tiller for dear life, and the water pouring in over the lee rail. We rounded the point and opened up the view of Trois-IIets just after dark. A low church, with straggling tile-covered houses about it, backed by purple hills, with a cane field stretching to the east, in its center the presbytery surrounded by trees. The stars were gleaming in the sky as we landed and walked up to the house of the owner of the boat, a boulanger, who also kept a shop. There was no other place likely to afford me shelter, so I went to the baker's shop ; but the first square look I had at the owner convinced me that he was not a man prone to hospitable acts. Subsequent events, I am happy to say, proved conclusively that I was right. He said he could give me a dinner, but no bed, so I went out with a cobbler who could speak a little English, in search of the curé, the parish priest, to whom I had a letter. We arrived at the presbytery at about half past seven, knocked, and after some delay were bidden to enter by the housekeeper, a comely woman. The curé entered the room ; short, corpulent, with sensual