The Jöri Lakes:
Fallen out of time and space The scenery around the Flüela Pass in the Swiss Alps is barren and primordial. Rubble, stones, rocks, lichens. This bareness soothes the spirit and the soul. It opens up space for other things, for the new. “Sense of time and space get lost, you are, you live…” says Markus, a fellow hiker on a trip to the Jöri Lakes near Davos. TEXT & PHOTOS: KARIN HUBER I TRANSLATION: NANE STEINHOFF
When one climbs up the last few metres, one stands on the ‘Jöriflüelafurgga’ alpine pass on 2,725 metres above sea level and finds everything just spectacular. We looked forward to this ‘wow’ moment for a long time. The vast, primordial high valley with the Jöri Lakes - the front one milkywhite as if farmers have temporarily stored their cows’ milk here, the ones behind inkblue; other lakes that lie beneath the ‘Jöri38 | Issue 53 | August 2017
flesspass’ (2,561 metres) can only be seen when one hikes towards the ‘Winterlücke’. Surreal, a different planet The scenery is surreal: the mountains, the lakes, the surrounding green, the grey and brown stones, the sky blue above us. “This light,” murmurs hiking colleague Axel in awe. Mountain peak after mountain peak, the ‘Flüela Wisshorn‘ mountain
(3,085 metres) and the southerly situated ‘Schwarzhorn’ mountain seem so close. Far away is the ‘Tödi’ mountain (3,614 metres), the Glarus Alps’ highest peak. The Jöri Lakes are fed by the ‘Jörigletscher’ glacier which has already retreated quite far. Someone explains that, between 2,200 and 2,800 metres, around 20 small and larger lakes can be found on three square kilometres. On the map however, we see less; some are probably not even marked on it because they are so small or dried up. Ascent The ascent to the saddle of ‘Jöriflüelafurgga’ is not difficult and leads us through an archaic stone and rock landscape with moss,
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