Lonely Planet Zambia Mozambique and Malawi

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Lower Zambezi National Park on

Mukamba Gate

Mt Kaulashishi (1420m) Mw Lower a ZAMBIA Zambezi Chiawa NP River

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Z AMBIA LO S LOEW UETEPH RI ENZRGANMZBAEM Z IBVA IA LLEY

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Sausage Tree Camp

Mpasi Royal Airstrip Royal Zambezi Lodge Mvuu Lodge Kiambi Safaris

Kanyemba Lodge

Kasaka River Lodge

Chiawa Camp

Jecki Airstrip

Mana Pools NP

IN THE GMA TENTED CAMP $$$

(%0211-286 808; www.chongwe.com; s/d all-inclusive US$900/1400; hApr-Nov; Ws) Right on

the Chongwe River that marks the boundary between the GMA and the national park, and overlooking the river crossing to Chongwe Gate, this camp has an enviable position with plenty of game around the camp but without the park fees. The confluence of the Zambezi is within view and a menagerie of wildlife graze on a spit of grassland with the

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River

Mpata Redcliff Gorge Zambezi Luangwa Lodge

ZIMBABWE Chewore Safari Area

Zambezi Escarpment

a few in the park itself (all at the very the top end in terms of price) and one to the east of the park boundary (only really accesssible to self-drivers). Knowing the distances of the lodges from Chirundu should assist independent drivers in getting around. Rates listed are usually per person during the high season (April to October) staying in twins/doubles unless mentioned otherwise; single supplements are usually 30% extra. (The rates for camping are also per person.) Also, add on transfers if you haven’t got your own wheels. Most lodges offer wildlifeviewing activities by boat or by safari vehicle and are not fenced. Keep in mind, however, that while theoretically on offer, most of the lodges in the GMA, especially those closer to Chirundu than to Chongwe Gate, don’t take their wildlife drives in the park proper. The community campsite a few kilometres before Chongwe Gate was bought by a private developer; it was basically abandoned when we passed through, though it might be worth inquiring about.

oChongwe River Camp

Sapi Safari Area

Chongwe River Camp

Chiawa

Gwabi Lodge Zambezi Breezers Hurungwe Safari Area Chirundu

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Zam Chongwe Gate

Ruf uns Kapoche aR ive Mission r Chirungusa

shika River

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100 km 50 miles

Red Ironstone Cliffs

Dande Safari Area

park’s escarpment in the background – an absolutely Edenic view. The tented chalets, well spaced along the edge of the river, have plush bedding, shaded verandahs and charming open-air bathrooms. It’s a laid-back place with a small fenced-in pool, nightly bonfires and large lantern-lit communal dining table. All-day wildlife drives into the park are available as are canoe-drive combinations and walking safaris. Chongwe also has other accommodation options, including the luxurious open-air Albida and Cassia Suites; the latter is especially well-suited for honeymooners. Nearby is the spectacularly anomalous two-storey Chongwe River House (sleeps eight), commonly referred to as ‘the Flintstones’ house because of its curving stone shape, gnarly exposed timber and ceilings made from rocks and wood. Tsika Island is Chongwe’s own very rustic adobe and thatch bush camp further upriver; hot water for showers is supplied by buckets suspended high above on poles to catch sunlight. Royal Zambezi Lodge CHALET $$$ (%0211-840682; www.royalzambezilodge.com; per person all-inclusive US$650; hyear-round; Ws)

The epitome of luxury bush mixed with a colonial-era viba, Royal is only a short drive to the eponymously named airstrip and Chongwe Gate. Despite its understated opulence – think brass fixtures, claw-footed tubs and private day beds on decks overlooking the river – it’s unpretentious and friendly. In addition, there’s a full-service spa (the only one on the Zambezi) and a bar built

22/03/2013 3:34:27 PM


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