Savour Issue 06 3013

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Apple Custard Tarts Ingredients • 1 small (180g) Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, finely chopped • 1 teaspoon lemon juice • 2 sheets filo pastry • Canola oil cooking spray • 1 tablespoon almond meal • 1 tablespoon caster sugar • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon For the custard • 1 tablespoon custard powder • 2 teaspoons caster sugar • 240ml low-fat milk

Method 1: Preheat oven to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. Grease four holes of a 6-hole, 1/3 cup-capacity muffin pan. 2: Make custard: Combine custard powder, sugar and 1 tablespoon milk in a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Stir in remaining milk. Cook, stirring, for 5 to 7 minutes or until mixture thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat. Cover surface with plastic wrap. Cool. 3: Combine apple and lemon juice in a bowl. Place one sheet filo on a flat surface. Spray with oil. Top with remaining sheet of filo. Fold filo in half crossways. Cut into four squares. Press each square into one hole of prepared pan. Sprinkle almond meal over filo. Top with three-quarters of the apple mixture. Sprinkle with caster sugar and half the cinnamon. 4: Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until filo is golden. Stand in pan for 2 minutes. Transfer tarts to a wire rack. Cool for 5 minutes. Spoon custard into cases. Top with remaining apple and remaining cinnamon. Serve.

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savour Welcome to

A celebration of north-east food and drink ISSUE 06, 2013

FROM THE EDITOR

contacts issuu.com/savour Savour is produced by Mackintosh Media Ltd., Regent House, 36 Regent Quay, Aberdeen AB11 5BE CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Steve MacKintosh T: +44 (0) 1224 288981 E: steve@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

EDITORIAL

Eric Farquharson The colder months bring with them a wealth of hearty ingredients for winterwarming cooking. It’s a perfect time for branching out and trying new foods. Some fruits for example hit their peak just in time to snap your taste buds out of their winter gloom. They’re refreshing and can provide a nice mental boost during a cold winter. It’s the time of year to make hearty soups with the season’s bounty. There’s nothing more comforting than a familiar bowl of leek and potato soup. You’ll find inside a list of the all-season farmers’ markets in your area. Well worth getting out of your warm bed for and you can inject some colour into grey months with some of our dazzling recipes for seasonal dishes. Popular TV chef and author Nigel Slater ‘spills the beans’ in our centre spread feature but, as usual, it’s our own local chefs we like to highlight. Find out

what Alex Hay thought of her experience on the highly rated Masterchef: The Professionals. Read about Scotland’s Chef of the Year, David Littlewood’s new venture and life for Matt as chef at The Prime Cuts restaurant. Christmas will soon be a distant memory so now is the time for a little romance by booking a cosy table for Valentine;s dinner in one of Aberdeen’s delicious eateries. In our ‘Breakaway’ pages we suggest heading west to the stunning Mar Hall just a few miles from Glasgow or the beautiful Loch Melfort Hotel on the coast of Argyll, near Oban. Both easily accessible from Aberdeen for a great weekend break. Whether creating your own winter dishes at home or eating out in one of Aberdeen’s cosy restaurants, there is a wealth of local produce to be enjoyed this winter.

T: +44 (0) 7730133036 E: eric@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

PRODUCTION

Calum Farquhar T: +44 (0) 1224 288982 E: calum@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

ACCOUNTS & DISTRIBUTION T: +44 (0) 1224 288983 E: accounts@mackintoshmedia.co.uk

@SavourMag

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ingredients A celebration of North-east food and drink ISSUE 06, 2013

CONTENT

28

33

Farmers Markets

p14/15

Great time of year to visit a Farmers’ Market.

Burns Night

p20/21

Burns Night means Haggis time again.

Wines Uncorked

p23

Time for bubbles

Competition

20

12

p31

Win a copy of Nigel Slater’s book ‘Eat’

Monica Galetti

p33

Masterchef Judge, the meticulous Monica Galetti

The Prime Cuts

22

30

42

p44/45

Matt’s crowning glory

Breakaway!

p50/51

Head west for a romantic break

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Mutton Renaissance Prince Charles at his Highgrove Estate in Gloucestershire.

Last summer I had the pleasure of attending the Malton Lovers Food Festival. I’m pretty sure most of you will not have heard of Malton, let alone the festival, but it’s a spectacular two-day event in this quaint little Yorkshire town which coincidentally is home to celebrity chef, James Martin. It is two days of ‘foodie heaven’, attracting high calibre chefs such as Antonio Carluccio and, on this occasion, Visen Anenden. “Who?” I hear you ask! Visen is the personal chef of

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As well as an insight into the royal kitchen, Visen was extoling the virtues of forgotten cuts of meat. As heir to the throne, Prince Charles could easily give his dinner guests the finest cuts of meat available. But the Prince of Wales has revealed he likes to serve up a much more humble cut – mutton. The Prince has long been a fan of the meat – officially classified as being from sheep aged over two – having launched the Mutton Renaissance campaign in 2004. Once dismissed as lamb’s poor relation, the meat’s fortunes have been so transformed by the Mutton Renaissance that it is now being served in many smart hotels, including The Ritz. Although mutton can be available all year, the best meat is produced from October to March. This is because the

sheep have access to nutritious summer and autumn grass and heather, and are able to put on fat before being slaughtered. Towards the end of the mutton season, animals are fed on root crops and silage to ensure they reach the standards required by the Mutton Renaissance. In recent years, it seems that the time required to cook a piece of mutton to perfection - at least two hours - was not compatible with the fast-food lifestyle of the late twentieth century. However, whilst many British consumers turned their back on mutton, it has remained highly valued in Asian, North African and Caribbean cuisine where long, slow marinades are combined with moist methods of cookery. Get more information from: www.muttonrenaissance.org.uk


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Haggis named top food chief executive, said: “St Andrew’s Day was the perfect time to celebrate Scotland’s natural larder and it’s clear from this survey that the Scottish people are loyal to their local food and drink producers. Scottish food and drink is increasingly recognised as a byword for excellence and our shoppers are voting with their wallets.” One in three Scots named haggis as their favourite Scottish food in a poll commissioned by Scotland Food & Drink for St Andrew’s Day. The same survey revealed the importance of local food to the Scottish people with 9 out of 10 saying they regularly buy home-grown Scottish produce and 86% of respondents claiming it was important to them that the food they buy is locally produced. James Withers, Scotland Food & Drink

While haggis was recognised universally as the favourite Scottish food across the country, other Scottish classics beef, salmon, mince and porridge made up another 34%. Regional specialities were recognised too with Arbroath Smokies included in the top ten in Tayside and stovies making the top 5 in Aberdeen. Venison was named as the fifth most popular food in Edinburgh while Lorne sausage filled that position in Glasgow. 1% of respondents in northern Scotland

chose the unique delicacy guga which is gannet meat from the Outer Hebrides. James Withers commented: “It’s not surprising that haggis topped the poll of favourite foods; it is a national treasure! However, Scotland is blessed with an extraordinary diversity of products. We land on these shores perhaps a greater variety of seafood than anywhere on Earth and we’re the world’s third largest producer of farmed Atlantic salmon. In addition, we have world class red meat, dairy, bakery, soft fruit and vegetables. All of which can be enjoyed with a dram of the global icon that is Scotch whisky. I genuinely think more Scottish people are feeling proud of this culinary heritage, and so they should.” The Scotpulse survey questioned more than 1,000 Scots from across the country in the run up to St Andrew’s Day on 30 November.

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Eyeing up the Best Pie We love our pies here in the north-east, but who is the best pie maker of them all? Culinary delights of butchers and bakers from across Scotland faced scrutiny last month during the judging of the World Scotch Pie Championships.

News Bites...

Double Triumph for Duisdale

Singing the praises of the Scottish produce was former Bay City Rollers front man Les McKeown, who took on the role of guest judge alongside experts as they rated more than 500 items. The Scots rocker said: "It's been fun but it's also a responsibility because it's quite a high accolade to be awarded. I'm proud to be part of helping to promote the world Scotch Pie Championships and the hard work that the bakers and the butchers put in to provide us with goodquality products every day of their lives, and I'm very proud that I'm in Scotland doing it.” The competition, now in its 15th year, will culminate with the naming next year of the maker of the best Scotch pie in the world. Competitors were also invited to enter their best sausage rolls, bridies, speciality savouries and football pies to compete for the top spots in a variety of award categories. For the first time since the start of the competition, an apple pie category has been created. The competition, run by the Scotch Pie Club, aims to show that bakers and butchers create high-quality artisan pastry products. Organisers hope that recognising the best in their field rewards excellence and raises the bar in the industry. The competition winners announced in January.

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Less than two weeks after being named the UK’s best small hotel, Duisdale House on Skye celebrated a double triumph when it won the title of the top hotel in Scotland. The 18-bedroom hotel, which looks out over the Sound of Sleat to the Knoydart wilderness peninsula, took the honour at the Scottish Thistle Awards held by national tourism organisation VisitScotland in Stirling Castle. A former hunting lodge, Duisdale was transformed in 2008 by owners Anne Gracie and Ken Gunn who won the award as Scotland’s Hoteliers of the

Year in 2011 for their work there and at their nearby sister hotel, Toravaig House. Just 13 days before the gala dinner at Stirling Castle, it was judged the UK’s best small hotel at the International Hotel Awards in London. "This has capped a fabulous year for us,” Anne commented. “It is a tribute to the skills, hard work and dedication of our management and staff as well as our total concentration on consistent top quality and customer service. Our aim is to deliver a unique blend of Scottish Highland hospitality, taking the best of what is available locally and combining it into a world class product.”


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Aberdeenshire Restaurant Cooks up Funds

News Bites An award winning Aberdeenshire restaurant has raised more than £12,000 for a local hospital with a star-studded fundraiser. Eat on the Green, owned by the Kilted Chef, Craig Wilson, hosted three events in one day at the restaurant and village hall in Udny Green, which included a buttery topping competition and a VIP lunch and dinner with the stars, all in aid of Insch hospital. The fundraiser, which was organised by Craig and his family in recognition of the care that Craig’s late father received at the hospital last year, took place with several famous faces in attendance, including stars from Emmerdale, and captain of Aberdeen Football Club, Russell Anderson, and former Dons manager Craig Brown. The restaurant kicked the fundraising event off with a culinary challenge, in association with Inverurie based bakery, J.G Ross, to discover the most popular topping for the North-east’s much-loved snack. The Bonnie Buttery competition saw local women, Norma Watson, crowned Queen of the butteries with her banoffee creation that wowed the panel of judges, including, George Ross of J.G Ross, Highland Chocolatier Iain Burnett, Eat on the Green's Craig Wilson and Northsound One’s Aylissa Boyce. Further celebrations took place at the award-winning restaurant, as Craig and his team hosted a VIP lunch and dinner,

sponsored by Inverurie Garden Centre, where guests were given the chance to rub shoulders and dine with actors from Emmerdale. However, the real stars of the day were the nurses from Insch Hospital who were treated to the red carpet treatment at the lunch and dinner. Mr Wilson, said: “We wanted to say thank you to the nurses and the team at Insch hospital for their help and support, and after discovering the hospital was facing potential closure, we wanted to do something. As my father worked for J.G Ross for 40 years, we decided to do a buttery topping competition, which was a great success, along with the lunch and dinner. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped organise and help with all the three events as we really couldn’t have done it without them, and I am so pleased we managed to raise so much.” Chairman of Friends of Insch, Alasdair McCallum, said: “The Friends of Insch Hospital and community are delighted with the successful fundraising event organised by Craig and his family, and we would like to say a personal thanks to Craig and all the sponsors. It was especially heartening to have the involvement of our hardworking nurses, who were treated like royalty throughout the event, which they are certainly going to remember for a long time.”

Government Advisory Board Appointment A partner at a leading North-east law firm has been appointed to an expert group that will advise the Scottish Government on its review of agricultural holdings legislation. Hamish Lean, partner at Stronachs and a specialist in agricultural law, will counsel the Scottish Environment and Rural Affairs Secretary, Richard Lochhead MSP, on delivering a sustainable tenant farming sector as part of the Agricultural Holdings Legislation Review. Mr Lean, who currently sits on the Law Society of Scotland’s Rural Affairs Committee and the NFUS Legal and Technical Committee, is a frequent practitioner in the Scottish Land Court and is an influential voice on agricultural law topics. He will advise the Scottish Government over how it can get the best out of the land and the people farming it, and how it can work to provide increased opportunities for new entrants.

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Pomegranate

Brussels Sprouts

Persimmon

Pomegranate seeds are high in polyphenols, plant chemicals that fight inflammation. Mix the seeds into oatmeal for more flavour and crunch.

Remove the outer layer of leaves, trim the stems, and toss with olive oil and sea salt. Place them on a baking sheet and roast at 425’F/220c until they're nicely browned.

The antioxidants in persimmons can help control diabetes and the cell damage it causes. Serve the fruit with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella.

Leeks

Kiwi Fruit

Kale

Many restaurants offer potato and leek soup in the winter, but you can also finely slice leeks and add them to omelettes, salads and rice.

One kiwi contains about 100 milligrams of immunity-boosting vitamin C. Add kiwi slices to a spinach salad.

To temper kale's bitter taste, gently sauté it with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, chopped garlic and pine nuts.

Beets Wrap one or two beets in foil and bake them in a 350’C/180c oven for an hour or until they're cooked through. Then cut them into cubes to toss into a salad of greens and crumbled goat cheese. Add a drizzle of walnut oil.

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SEVEN

OF THE BEST

WINTER FOODS


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Springing a Leek Each fruit or vegetable has a prime time when it’s at its seasonal best. Some are great for over half of the year; others only hit their peak for a month. Either way it means extra flavour, extra crunch, extra juiciness—all super-fresh and great value. Packed with anti oxidants and vitamins, the mighty leek can help stave off winter colds. It’s also the perfect partner to potatoes and cheese for deeply satisfying side dishes and suppers. :Add chopped and boiled leeks to mashed potato with a good knob of butter and plenty of black pepper. Try wrapping parboiled leeks in smoked ham, pouring over a bit of white sauce, sprinkling over breadcrumbs and baking

until golden brown. Great with bread and butter.

trapped between its layers. Here’s how to get it out of every crevice:

How to choose leeks

1: Cut off the dark green leaves an inch or so above the white part of the stalk and discard the greens (they’re bitter and tough). Trim and discard the roots. Halve the remaining stalk lengthwise, then cut into pieces of the desired size.

Look for straight, firm stalks with unblemished white bottoms and bright green leaves. Avoid leeks with very dark green tops or rounded (rather than flat) bottoms, which can be signs that the vegetable is overgrown, old or both. Smaller leeks are the most tender. How to store leeks Cut off and discard the dark green tops but keep the roots intact. Stow unwashed and tightly wrapped in the refrigerator up to 5 days. How to Prepare Leeks As the plant grows, gritty soil gets

2: Fill a bowl with cold water, add the cut leeks and swish them around a few times. With your hands loosely cupped, lift the leeks out of the bowl and place them on a plate or work surface. (The grit will remain behind in the bowl.) Discard the water and grit. Fill the bowl with fresh water and repeat until the water is clear.

Seared Scallops with Leek Ribbons Ingredients • 1 1/2 lbs/700g sea scallops • 1 teaspoon sea salk flakes • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 4 medium leeks (white and light green parts), quartered lengthwise and rinsed • 1 lemon, cut into wedges (optional) • 2 tablespoons pesto (optional)

Method 1: Rinse the scallops and pat them dry with paper towels. Season them with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. 2: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. 3: Add the scallops and cook until golden brown and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. 4: Wipe out the skillet and return to medium-low heat. Add the remaining oil and the leeks and toss. 5: Cover and cook, turning occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Season with remaining salt and pepper. 6: Return the scallops to skillet to re warm. If using, squeeze on the lemon juice or spoon the pesto over the top. Transfer to individual plates.

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Macduff Farmers’ Market Macduff Farmers’ Market is held in Macduff Fishmarket on the last Saturday of every month from 9a.m.-12.30p.m. As one of Aberdeenshire’s best known traditional ports, Macduff still has an active fishing fleet operating out of the harbour and so the fishmarket is still very much in use during the week, maintaining the town’s links with the industry to which it owes its origins. Macduff is also Aberdeenshire’s most northerly market and has been running for eight years, offering a range of produce such as meat, fish, vegetables, cakes and preserves, some of which cannot be found anywhere else. The unique crafts you will find there are quintessentially Scottish and make perfect gifts, whether you want to treat someone or simply just treat yourself.

Macduff Set against a backdrop of stunning coastal scenery, Macduff is the perfect destination for a trip to the coast and boasts spectacular wildlife and a wide range of attractions. If you fancy venturing out into the waters of the Moray Firth, boat trips leave regularly from the quay beside the Fishmarket to take you fishing, birdwatching or in search of marine wildlife such as bottlenose dolphins, seals and harbour porpoises. Activity sports such as diving and sailing are also available in Macduff and there is ample scope for golf and coastal walks. A short walk from the Fishmarket lies Macduff Marine Aquarium – Macduff’s top attraction and a first class day out for the whole family whatever the weather. The Aquarium is a fantastic way to explore the subsea world beneath the North Sea and also features a living kelp reef - the only one of its kind in Britain. Why not then visit the Harbour View Café or the Knowes Hotel where you can sit back and enjoy your meal while enjoying breathtaking views of the harbour and Moray Firth coast. Myrus Golf Centre Café also has a first class food offering and is open to golfers and non-golfers alike.

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Farmers’ Markets can be found at: ABERDEEN - last Saturday of the month 9a.m.-5p.m. ALFORD - last Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m. BALMEDIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 10a.m.-2p.m. BANCHORY - 3rd Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m. HUNTLY - 1st Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m. INVERURIE - 2nd Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m. MACDUFF - Last Saturday of the month 9a.m.-12.30 p.m. PETERHEAD - 1st Saturday of the month 10a.m.-3p.m. STONEHAVEN - 1st Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m. TORPHINS - Every Wednesday 10a.m.-2p.m. TURRIFF - 3rd Saturday of the month 9a.m.-12.30p.m. WESTHILL - 1st Saturday of the month 9a.m.-1p.m.

Spicy root & lentil casserole Ingredients • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil • 1 onion, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 700g/1 1/2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks • 4 carrots, thickly sliced • 2 parsnips, thickly sliced • 2 tbsp curry paste or powder • 1 litre/1¾ pints vegetable stock • 100g/4oz lentils

Method 1: Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion and garlic over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes until softened before adding in the potatoes, carrots and parsnips. Turn up the heat and cook for a further 6-7 minutes, stirring, until the vegetables are golden. 2: Add the curry paste or powder, pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, add the lentils, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes until the lentils and vegetables are tender and the sauce has thickened. 3: Stir in most of the coriander, season and heat for a minute or so.

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In the early 1980s, Gina Fletcher’s son Ed was carving out a career for himself as an engineer in the North Sea energy industry, but between jobs he was persuaded to give his mother a “helping hand” in the fish business she cofounded. Three months later, to his mother’s delight, Ed decided to take the plunge and join the family firm. Fletcher & Son was born.

headquarters at Poynernook Road and the staff in the processing unit was increased as the company developed a wholesale market across the UK.

Gina's father came to help out after retiring and it was he, Arthur Laing, that had the brainwave to brand the wooden boxes ‘Granite City Fish’. Since then the brand name, now in its 57th year, has been synonymous with the fish industry With precious little experience in the in Aberdeen. Wooden boxes were, fish trade, it was a fierce and fast thankfully, replaced by polystyrene learning curve for young Ed – turning which kept the fish fresher. up at the fish market at 5.45 a.m. to The company, by now renamed Granite learn, on his feet, the techniques of City Fish to capitalise on its distinctive buying in a notoriously competitive branding identity, further expanded by market; honing the intricate skills of developing into the more direct retail filleting, and the packing and arena as, until then, they mainly catered presentation of the finished product. for hotels and restaurants. But he swiftly responded to the Savour’s editor, resplendent in wellies, challenge. met with Ed to talk about his beloved In 1990 the firm purchased its current industry.


Q: Granite City Fish has been entwined 46 years and I have 31years experience so; in Aberdeen and the fishing industry we have a total of 77 years of knowledge and now boasts a UK-wide presence. in the industry between us. How did the company begin? Coordinating is not the problem, it’s A: My mother worked in the industry at a continuity and trying to get stable prices very young age. In the mid-1950’s she with an ever-increasing demand on the became really friendly with a lady called market auctions. Prices for my main Cathy Addams and they decided to go out product which is lemon sole have increased on their own. As some of my mums older 100%. sisters were running a fish business she asked Cathy if she would be interested in Q: Why are you such a staunch working in the industry with her. That’s supporter of local farmers’ markets? really how Granite City Fish was born and A: Firstly it’s to promote fish and the joy of now it is one of Scotland’s most dynamic displaying fish beautifully (our display is the fishmonger businesses – catering for a largest in the UK spanning 6m of fish on retail and wholesale range of private and ice). I love to see the customers’ faces light corporate customers the length and up. My son who is now 15 has a growing breadth of the country. interest in Saturday markets and has taken Q: Where do you source your diverse to his tasks like a duck to water (excuse the range of fish and shellfish? pun!) I have been teaching him the A: As Aberdeen Fish Market is now closed importance of presentation, colour, brakes we source from mainly Peterhead and the and fanning fish. He has been working out Shetland Islands. We have a local fisherman how to display fish with a Christmas style who supplies us with brown crab and over the festive season so he has suggested lobsters. we get samphire grass to lay out as a Q: How do you transport your fish from Christmas tree and use scallops and monks’ far-flung places such as Sri Lanka and cheeks etc. as decorations. Malaysia back to Aberdeen? Q: You are in an industry fraught with A: We use a French company that flies into tough times. We all know of the scandal London. In an intricate importing operation of massive amounts of fish being where every minute counts, the order is air- discarded in the North Sea. What’s your freighted fresh on ice to London Heathrow view on this? Airport and onwards to Aberdeen by air A: There really is no quick answer or cure before being shipped to offshore but it is outrageous that we are discarding installations. such quantities of good quality caught fish. Q: How does your buyer co-ordinate the It’s heartbreaking! supply of fish in such a fast-moving Q: Your mum Gina has sadly passed industry? away but she has left quite a legacy. A: Firstly, I have to mention my trusty What inspiration have you taken from manager, "Little Jimmy Grant". As the name her? implies he is a small man and would burrow past buyers and sneak in bids to A: Always do your best and treat fish as a the salesmen. There was such a buzz and precious thing to be handled with care. excitement buying fresh fish at Aberdeen Quality and presentation are of the utmost Market. James has been in the industry for importance.



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2014 To Be Golden Year for Marmalade Organiser of the Marmalade Awards predicts boom year for preserve. 2014 is set to be a golden year for marmalade with the release of a new Paddington feature movie, a growing interest in making preserves at home and a steep rise in exports of British marmalade abroad.

traditionally-made British marmalade,” Jane said. “I think in 2014 this trend will continue and, with the new Paddington movie coming out, people are bound to want to get their paws on more and more of these wonderfully golden jars.”

Jane Hasell-McCosh, organiser of the 9th World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival to be be held on 1 and 2 March 2014, is predicting jars will be flying off the shelves as Brits rediscover their love for the citrus preserve and an increased number of international retailers stock the quintessentially British breakfast staple.

Entries are now open for the awards, which hail the preserve in all its sticky glory. The closing date for entries is 13th February 2014. Everyone who enters a jar gets their preserve tasted and judged by experts, and then gets sent a personalised mark card with feedback on how the marmalade can be improved - or if they are lucky, a gold, silver or bronze award. Last year over 1,900 jars were entered. The double gold star winner gets their marmalade made by a commercial kitchen and it is then stocked at Fortnum & Mason – and 50p from every jar sold goes to

“Since we started our awards, we’ve seen a definite resurgence in interest in marmalade, with many now making their own preserves at home or opting to buy really good,

charity. Dundee-based marmalade maker Mackays has seen a significant increase in exports to countries such as Japan, Germany, Denmark, the USA and the Czech Republic. Martin Grant from Mackays said: “We’re selling more and more jars internationally as there’s a real interest in British culture and food abroad. We are the last remaining producer of Dundee Orange Marmalade in the area and I think that heritage, and the fact we still make our preserves using the traditional open-pan method, is key.” The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival is sponsored by Mackays and Paddington, as well as Fortnum & Mason. There are a wide range of categories for artisan, B&B/hotel owners and amateur marmalade makers to enter in the competition.

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How to Cook Haggis Haggis in Scotland was once considered a poor-man's dish made from leftovers, but is now a regular feature on tables across the country. For advice on how to cook haggis look no further. However making haggis from scratch is not for the faint-hearted!

Ingredients First find a good, spicy haggis, either from your local butcher, deli, supermarket or nearest Scottish store if you live overseas. Contrary to what we tell overseas visitors, you cannot hunt one down at the top of Scottish mountain peaks, hills, glens, moors or shooting estates. There are many award-winning haggis makers with various ingredients from traditional beef and lamb to vegetarian, pork, smoked venison or even kosher. Haggis travels well and therefore can be ordered over the internet to be delivered by post, although there are import restrictions in countries such as America and Canada. It will keep up to one month in the fridge and from six months to a year in the freezer. If the haggis is to be a main course, the average portion should be around 6-8 oz (150-200 g) per person and 4 oz (100 g) if served as a starter. Turnips and potatoes are also essential accompaniments, available from farmers' markets, delis, market gardens, vegetable stores, or your own back garden.

Step-by-Step Cooking Instructions: The haggis is already cooked and just needs some careful re-heating until it is piping hot. It may seem obvious, but it is essential to defrost before cooking if the haggis hasn't been bought fresh.

Pan method 1: Bring a pan of water to the boil. 2: Place the haggis in the pan and turn the heat down immediately. The water should only simmer, not boil as this may burst the case resulting in a culinary disaster and a 'murdert haggis'. Some haggis come in a 'cook-in bag' to avoid this problem, otherwise wrapping it in foil would help to protect the contents. The length of time it should be gently poached depends on the size of your haggis. As a guide, a 1kg haggis takes around 75 mins.

Oven 1: Remove outer plastic bag and wrap in aluminium foil. 2: Place in a casserole dish with a little water and cook in a preheated oven at 180c (Gas Mark 6) for around an hour, depending on the size of your haggis. To be on the safe side, test with a cooking thermometer to a minimum of 63c.

Microwave 1: Remove outer bag and skin. 2: Cut into evenly-sized slices and heat on medium for around eight minutes or as instructed on the haggis. 3: Halfway through cooking, mash with a fork to ensure an even temperature throughout.

Neeps 1: Peel and quarter the turnip and boil for 25 mins or until soft. 2: Drain and mash with a little butter. Add a teaspoon of caster sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Tatties 1: Peel and quarter the potatoes and boil for 20 mins or until soft. 2: Drain and mash with a little butter and milk to get a smooth, creamy consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Haggis, Clapshot and Whisky Sauce Ingredients • 500g/1lb / 2oz haggis • For the clapshot: • 500g/1lb 2oz floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward, peeled and chopped • 500g/1lb 2oz swede (yellow turnip), peeled, chopped • 50g/2oz butter • 75ml/2¾fl oz double cream • sea salt and freshly ground white pepper • 1 tbsp chopped fresh chives • For the whisky sauce: • 500ml/17fl oz double cream • 2 tsp wholegrain mustard • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard • 2 tsp whisky • sea salt and freshly ground white pepper • 1 tbsp chopped fresh chives • ½ lemon, juice only

Method 1: Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. 2: Wrap the haggis tightly in aluminium foil and place onto a baking tray. Bake in the oven for 45 minutes to one hour, or until cooked through. 3: Meanwhile, for the clapshot, boil the potatoes and swede in separate saucepans of salted water for 15-18 minutes or until tender. Drain well. Add the drained swede to the drained potatoes and mash thoroughly. Add the butter and cream and mash again until smooth and well combined. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Stir in the tablespoon of chives. Set aside and keep warm. 4: For the whisky sauce, heat the double cream in a pan over a medium heat. Add the wholegrain mustard, Dijon mustard and whisky and stir to combine. Increase the heat until the mixture is simmering and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes. 5: Remove the pan from the heat and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Stir in the tablespoon of chives, then whisk in the lemon juice. 6: To serve, divide the clapshot equally among four serving plates. Place a spoonful of steamed haggis alongside each. Spoon over the warm whisky sauce.

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22

Our Quest to Find the Best-Named Beer With the huge rise in independent micro-breweries across Scotland, we thought it would be good fun to find the beers with the most intriguing names. Starting off our quest is the amusingly named ‘Sheepshaggers Gold’ from the Cairngorm Brewery in Aviemore but we’d love to hear of more unusual names so please drop us a line at info@mackintoshmedia.co.uk with your interesting labels. It’s all in the name of research!!

Mac Daddy This variation on the classic whisky mac is a great cocktail for kicking off Burns night celebrations Ingredients • a dash of whisky bitters • 1 strip of orange zest • 25ml/1fl oz Scotch whisky • 25ml/1fl oz ginger liqueur • lemon zest, to garnish

Method 1: Put a handful of ice in a cocktail shaker , add all ingredients and stir to mix. 2: Strain mixture into a whisky tumbler over ice, garnish with lemon zest and serve.

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I don’t need any excuse to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine but, if you do, then Hogmanay, Burns Night and Valentine’s night are a start! There is a bottle of bubbles out there for every occasion, whether you are looking for an aperitif, something to match with a main course or simply to share with friends. Prosecco has become a firm favourite over the last few years. Made from the Glera grape in the northeast of Italy, it’s all about freshness and fruity flavours, and can be enjoyed on its own or as a base for sparkling wine cocktails. Desiderio Jeio Brut Prosecco Superiore NV (£9.90, www.schlossrothenburg.co.uk, Aberdeen) is dry and fruity with soft bubbles and fragranced with apples and pears. If only champagne will do, then it’s all about the style. Seafood canapés will sit happily alongside a non-vintage or an elegant Blanc de Blancs and, if you want to continue drinking champagne through the meal, go for either a vintage style or Blanc de Noirs, which is made from 100% red grapes. The complexity of a vintage and the Pinot influence of a Blanc de Noirs will hold up against chicken, pork and veal dishes in creamy wine sauces. English traditional-method sparkling wines go from strength to strength and the quality shines through. Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2008 (www.thewinesociety.com, £26) is fab - elegant, delicate and perfectly balanced with fine bubbles. Wine Raks, Aberdeen also has a selection of Nyetimber Wines.

I’m a fan of rosé champagne, which can be expensive, but there are well-priced examples around and some great New World alternatives. Drink alongside freshly grilled langoustines. Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV, South Africa (£10.20, Schloss Rothenburg), sings of Pinot fruit with fresh strawberries and raspberries and a savoury edge. Oudinot NV Rosé Champagne from M&S is lively and creamy and well priced at £22. I love the idea of matching wine and cake (and plan to build a tasting around it). Try a sweet sparkling Muscat alongside panettone, Victoria sponge and meringues. Asti from Italy is the obvious one, but be adventurous and track down a Brazilian one; they are starting to hit the shelves. Aurora Moscato NV, Brazil (Oddbins, £9.50), is sweet and grapey with a gently foaming mousse and a balancing freshness. Although I’m still not sure where I stand on sparkling red wines, they can make for some interesting matching. Go for a medium dry style next to a dark chocolate torte, locally produced hard cheeses and, if you want to cause a stir at your Burns Supper, offer with deep-fried haggis canapés! Trust me, the hint of sweetness will really complement the spice of the haggis! Bleasdale Sparkling Shiraz, Langhorne Creek, Australia (www.thewinesociety.com, £12.95), is a good example. All the best for 2014!

Carol Brown is an Aberdeen based member of the Association of Wine Educators and the Circle of Wine Writers and hosts a range of wine courses, workshops, dinners and corporate wine events www.wineuncorkededucation.co.uk



25

Locally the Best for Foodies at The Store The Store in Foveran is more than just a farm shop. They are committed to sourcing and supplying only the finest, seasonal and local produce to the North-east. As well as being a food destination, The Store hosts various events and foodie nights to showcase their award-winning produce. In the past twelve months, The Store has focused on different themes and foodie favourites each week, hosting a variety of themed nights including Best of British Summer, Flaming Butchers Grill night, a Game night, Indian and Taste of the North-east. Due to the popularity of the gourmet food nights, The Store’s event calendar for 2014 is already filling up fast with the team currently cooking up lots of new ideas, including a gastro night and, back by popular demand, The Store’s Fish Friday.

The foodie nights, which are held in The Store’s restaurant once a month, have a relaxing atmosphere, making them great for special meals with the family, get-togethers with friends and perfect for food lovers. The evenings also provide The Store with a perfect opportunity to showcase its high quality food and mouth-watering dishes to their customers. The three- and often four-course meals created by the award-winning chef’s at The Store for each event are prepared using the finest and local produce from the farm and also the surrounding area. With the best local vegetables and herbs to compliment the meat, the gourmet nights give the chefs at The Store the opportunity to experiment with different flavours and ingredients that help to bring out the best of the produce, which they can then share with customers.

As The Store is passionate about encouraging its customers to make use of Scotland’s natural larder, they have a strong focus on promoting local produce and suppliers to the North-east and whole of Scotland. The farm shop, which is run by husband and wife team, Andrew and Debbie Booth, has grown since opening in 2000 and now has its own butchery, farm shop and deli, kitchen and coffee shop, with all the meat products sold at The Store coming from produce reared on the family farms. The on-site butchery allows The Store to have complete control and 100% traceability of its Aberdeen Angus beef that it serves to customers. However The Store doesn’t just stop at foodie nights as a way to share its expertise and knowledge for local produce. The farm opens its gates each year for their annual farm open days, which attract hundreds of visitors with tours of the farm, food demonstrations and a chance to see the harvesting equipment in action. The Store also hosts regular summer BBQs, hog roasts and attends a number of farmers markets and shows throughout the year. The Store is open seven days a week, from 10a.m.-5p.m. To find out more about The Store and their foodie nights and events, call (01358) 788083 or visit www.thestorecompany.co.uk

Competition winners Congratulations to Isobel Dickson from Auchterless near Turriff, who is the winner of a delicious Barra Bronze Turkey courtesy of the Michie family at Lochend of Barra. What a great start to your Christmas dinner! Also, well done to Catherine Murchie, who will be cooking up wholesome and nutritious meals every day thanks to her winning entry in our Rachel Allen competition. A copy of Rachel’s book Rachel’s Everyday Kitchen will be winging its way to you soon. savour Issue 06 2013


26

Simply Stovies In many a household there is often a heated

The potatoes are cooked by slow stewing in a

debate on who can make the best stovies and

closed pot with fat and stock. Lard, beef

what they should contain. If you asked ten

dripping or butter may be used as the fat. It

different people how to make them, you’d

is also common to stew the potatoes in water

get ten different recipes. For those who are not from Scottish climes, it’s a traditional Scottish dish utilising leftovers. It used to be a favourite Monday meal using all the delicious

alone with onion before adding the other ingredients. Stovies are often accompanied by oatcakes and sometimes beetroot.

meat, vegetables, fat and gravy left on the

Today stovies are often served in pubs, at

stove from the Sunday roast. It comes from a

football or rugby matches and often to help

time when meat was not universally affordable and was often a special treat for some families. The favourite Scottish dish has a potato base with recipes and ingredients varying widely.

soak up copious amounts of drink consumed at weddings, Hogmanay and other special occasions. You can, God forbid, even pick them up pre-packed from the supermarket shelf ready to be microwaved!

In addition to the humble spud, it can contain onions, carrots and other vegetables, roast

If you haven’t attempted this culinary delight,

beef, corned beef, minced beef or other meat.

give it a go. It’s simply scrumptious!

Simple Stovies Here’s a recipe for Stovies adapted from Nick Nairn’s New Scottish Cookbook Ingredients • 50g/2oz beef dripping, rendered, bacon fat or vegetable oil • 500g/1lb onions • 500g/1lb Potatoes, King Edward or equivalent, cut into chunks (5cm) • Freshly ground sea salt & freshly ground pepper • Chicken, beef, or vegetable stock or meat jelly left over from roast beef, diluted with water • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (optional)

Method 1: Melt dripping/oil in a heavy-based pan and fry the onions gently until they soften – about 10 minutes. 2: Add the potatoes and stir well. Add a small amount of salt and pepper then adjust seasoning later. 3: Add gravy, if used, and some some stock/water and cook slowly, stirring regularly, adding liquid as necessary to prevent burning. A little ‘browning’ round the edges towards the end of the cooking time is fine, so long as they don’t burn. This should take about an hour, depending on type/size of potatoes. 4: When cooked, stovies should be soft but fairly lumpy, with a thickened (sauce) of the stock/gravy and potato (not too (wet) as they will be eaten with a fork). Taste and adjust seasoning. Add parsley if required. It is normal to add small lean meat scraps if you have any. I also add some chopped, grilled sausages-not actually traditional,except in Medway-as it makes more of a meal of it!! (At some point) I usually transfer stovies to my slow cooker and bring the cooker to the hall, where it can be plugged in. You can also bring a pan for the stove or casserole for the oven.

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It can be a daunting task organising lunchtime meetings when you are tasked with impressing colleagues and visiting business executives. But worry no more! The team at Itsy will guarantee a rendezvous with perfection. Formed in 2010, Itsy offers quality catering for business meetings, parties and events. They are mini food artists superbly skilled in creating tasty bites that will impress the most discerning palate. Banish the thought of pre-made sandwich fillings, as everything in Itsy is fresh, from the in-house roasted meats to the hand crafted mini pastries all beautifully packaged and oozing sophistication. There’s a great choice of mini burgers including the 100% steak burger, pork and apple or a fiery chicken burger. Finish off with one of their delicious mini cakes, petit fours or mini cupcakes, fashionably delivered straight to your office. If you’re up with the lark for a breakfast meeting impress with fresh fruit, yoghurt or continental pastries. Why not chose a more indulgent mini roll, each with a generous filling such as Stornoway black pudding, bacon, spicy haggis or sausage with melted mature cheddar. The Itsy team, who are three years old in January, have already been shortlisted for the Grampian Award for Business Excellence, testimony to their dedication, passion and skill in the industry. This successful company is ever evolving, as are their products, so check out the website www.itsyworld.com or call 01224 451288.


28

Simply Slater Nigel Slater is a cook who writes. The author of a collection of bestselling books and presenter of five BBC1 television series, he has been food columnist for The Observer for twenty years. His books include the classics Appetite, The Kitchen Diaries and the critically acclaimed, two-volume Tender. His award-winning memoir Toast - the Story of a Boy's Hunger won six major awards, has been translated into five languages and is now a BBC film starring Helena Bonham Carter and Freddie Highmore. His latest book, Eat - The Little Book of Fast Food, has just been published. Initially a reluctant television cook, Nigel has now presented five prime-time series for BBC1, two BBC4 documentaries and a film of his memoir Toast. His weekly cookery shows regularly reach over 4 million viewers. A new four-part series for BBC1 and a second documentary for BBC4 have just aired. Author, columnist, diarist and broadcaster, he remains very much an amateur cook. Nigel is not a chef and has no restaurant or commercial connections. His food is understated, handcrafted home cooking that is easy to accomplish and without a trace of what he affectionately calls 'celebrity cheffery'. He is not fond of fussy food and prefers simple suppers made with care and thought. He believes that making something good to eat for yourself or for others can lift the spirits in the way little else can. "There is something quietly civilizing about sharing a meal with other people, he says. “The simple act of making someone something to eat, even a bowl of soup or a loaf of bread, has a many-layered meaning. It suggests an act of protection and caring, of generosity and intimacy. It is in itself a sign of respect." Given his general bonhomie about food in particular and life in general, it seems odd to think of Slater as something of a recluse, but he insists it is so. Similarly, he has little liking for the celebrity chef circuit (except for his great friend Nigella Lawson).

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29 In a recent interview (something he claims he never does) in The Observer he reveals: “I have nothing to do with other foodies, though I think, for example, Jamie is brilliant, and so is Ainsley in his way.” When Slater did a bit of TV a couple of years ago, he was shocked to find phone calls subsequently interrupting his cooking at home. “Suddenly random people from magazines were calling barking’ What do you have in your fridge?’ I won't do that stuff. Just like I won't do photo sessions with a red pepper in one hand and a frying pan in the other.” Despite his attempt at anonymity, he can still hardly walk down the road to Islington without someone congratulating him on his rarebit or sharing a secret about stuffing. His stack of fan mail very occasionally includes a letter detailing disaster. “Someone had a problem with their Christmas cake icing and sent me a rather gruesome photo of it,” he recalls, wincing. “And I did get this sweet letter from a little boy aged seven and a half, who asked if I had actually made my recipe for pasta and bacon, because his mum had made it the night before and, God knows what she had put in it, but none of them had stopped farting since.” I wonder if he thinks his mailbag is a sign that the British are genuinely becoming more emotional about food. “It's still not part of our heart and soul,” he suggests. “We still overcompensate for the fact that our food has always been a joke. The French or Italians think nothing of going to a patisserie and buying a pudding for a dinner party or a ready-made salad, but here we have to make everything ourselves, every last sodding cake. I still think we are using food as a class thing, to put on a show, rather than because we love it.” Another example of this tendency, he believes, is the gastro pub. “I want a pub to sell me a decent pint, not seared tuna with pink peppercorns.” For him food must be first a private pleasure. “I can get very excited about a perfect little goat's cheese, or at the farmer's market where you get runner beans and you had forgotten how they tasted...” If people come over, because he has been cooking all day, he often suggests they go out. “I don't try things out on anyone other than me. If I like it, I write about it.”

Stuff Nigel knows about cooking Most of us eat too much. The first bite of pizza is always the best. Ditto sip of cold beer. Even the most feted of intellectuals cannot cook if they refuse to apply basic common sense. Baking a loaf of bread will change the way you think about food. There is something simple, pure and frugal about a home-made loaf, and the feel-good factor is better than a trip to the gym. I still meet men who never, ever cook. They think it's their wife's job. They are living in the dark ages. People who are good cooks are often good in bed. Most of the men-only cooking classes are fully booked. There is no light so perfect as that which shines from an open fridge door at 2a.m. The British are not passionate cooks. We are a nation of recipe followers. Sometimes I think, “**** it” and just make myself a bowl of plain steamed rice. The food in France is on a downward spiral. All food tastes better when you are ever-so-slightly drunk. Most chefs prefer their mum's cooking to the bells and whistles stuff they send out to their customers. Nigel’s writing has won the National Book Awards, the Glenfiddich Trophy, the André Simon Memorial Prize, the James Beard Award and the British Biography of the Year. He was the winner of a Guild of Food Writers' Award for his BBC1 series Simple Suppers and the BBC Food Personality of the Year .

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30 Nigel Slater

Slow Roast Leg of Lamb with Herb Rub Ingredients • 1 leg of lamb, approximately 2kg/4½lb • whole head of garlic • 1 tbsp salt flakes • 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves only, chopped • 2 sprigs thyme, leaves only • olive oil | For the mashed potatoes: • 1kg/2lb 4oz potatoes • 100g/4oz butter • 25g/1oz Parmesan cheese, grated• salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method 1: Preheat the oven to 160C/325F/Gas 3. 2: Separate and peel the garlic cloves, and crush them with the salt in a pestle and mortar. You need enough salt to give the mixture some grit. Mash the garlic into the salt. Add the rosemary and thyme, then mix with enough olive oil to make a thick paste. 3: Rub the garlic mixture over the whole surface of the lamb. Place the lamb into a deep-sided roasting tin. 4: Add 250ml/9fl oz of water to the roasting tin. Baste the meat with the liquid then cover the lamb with foil. Place in the oven and roast for 3-3½ hours, until cooked to your liking. 5: When cooked, pour off any excess oil from the top of the liquid, leaving the cloudy, herby sediment in place. This is the gravy. Cover the pan with a lid and rest for 15 minutes. 6: Cut up the potatoes and cook in boiling, salted water. When soft enough to mash, drain in a colander then mash with the butter and grated parmesan. Season well with salt and pepper. 7: Carve the lamb into thick chunks and serve with the mashed potatoes. Pour over the pan juices.

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32

Locker Full of Surprises It’s not only your golf swing that can be finely tuned at The Locker Room in Aberdeen’s Market Street. It’s your taste buds too! You’ll find an amazing menu made from fresh local produce in what is now one of Aberdeen’s most highly regarded eateries. With an ideal city centre location, it’s perfect for lunch, dinner, a coffee stop or meeting friends for after work drinks. Raise the curtain on a delicious pre-theatre menu, Monday – Thursday, 5.00 – 7.00p.m. amazing value at only £10.99 for two courses or £12.99 for three. If you’re keen to keep up that competitive edge in the dark winter nights, the Tuesday Night Winter League is perfect for you. It’s

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only £10 per person and includes a main dish and the chance to win a set of TaylorMade Speed Blade Irons. Best of all it’s great fun! Running until 25th March, you still have plenty of time to join in. January is a great time to get the team at work motivated for another year. The Locker Room is the ideal venue. Top-notch food, experienced staff and one of the best golf simulators in Scotland make this a prime location for corporate events. There are unique team building exercises and lots of golfing fun with fantastic state-of-the-art equipment. You’ll find the prices very competitive too. www.lockerroom.co.uk


Monica Galetti was born in Samoa, raised in New Zealand and she is an amazing chef and an expert in facial expressions. She is senior sous chef for Michel Roux Jr at his two-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gavroche, where she has worked for 10 years, and she also recently appeared as the stern judge on Masterchef: The Professionals. She lives in London with her husband David, who is head sommelier at Le Gavroche, and their young daughter, Anais. She hates football but is a passionate All Blacks fan and once had Martin Johnson in a head lock. As a judge on Masterchef: The Professionals, Monica can look awfully fierce, her repertoire of facial expressions ranging from eye-rolling incredulity to horrified grimacing. She has a caustic line in put-downs, too. ‘If that fish was in my kitchen you’d be wearing it,” she told one hapless contestant. ‘My granny could do a better job than that – and she’s six foot under,’ is another of her off-the-cuff rebukes that have become known as Monica-isms. During her three years on the BBC2 cooking competition, Monica, 37, has earned a reputation as the bad cop – fastidious, frank and uncompromising – to fellow adjudicator Gregg Wallace’s

jolly, avuncular good one. Monica’s exacting standard is set by her mentor and boss Michel Roux Jr, chef de cuisine at Le Gavroche. She judges the heats of the TV contest before Michel oversees the finalists. If she comes across as a martinet, it’s only because she is imbued with Michel’s perfectionism. In person, however – bereft of her chef’s whites and wearing a flirty little dress and high heels – she is dazzlingly pretty, smiley and sweetnatured. ‘I’m a very different Monica when I’m in work mode: a chef’s job is very demanding,’ she explains. ‘It’s physically tough – there’s lots of carrying and lifting – it’s hot and the hours are long and unsocial. You have to have courage and broad shoulders and, when it’s time to work, you have to step up to the mark. ‘The professional chefs on the programme should be able to prepare anything from a sea urchin to a crêpe soufflé – and if they make fundamental mistakes, it irks me. I’d never allow it in my kitchen. Why should it happen on TV?” The majority of top chefs are male which makes Monica, who has reached the pinnacle of her profession without forfeiting a family life, a rarity.

Eight years ago she married into what she calls ‘Le Gavroche family’: her Frenchborn husband, David Galetti, 35, is sommelier at the restaurant. ‘Michel paid me a handsome sum to marry his sommelier,’ she jokes. ‘It’s hard to meet anyone in our industry – 16-hour days are routine – so lots of couples meet at work.’ She’d already won professional accolades in New Zealand when she decided, aged 23, to come to England. On the strength of her CV, Michel offered her a job. During her first years as a commis chef, he was a hard taskmaster. ‘There were times when he’d tell me to get on the next plane home, but I understand now that you apply the most pressure to those you think will make it.’ Monica is a paradox: a tough exterior and a soft centre. ‘I’m such a girly girl at heart,’ she says. ‘I love to dress up and look nice when I go out to dinner. I wish everyone would get behind that idea. At a good restaurant you’re being pampered. It’s not just a gastronomic experience, it’s a treat. So we should dress nicely.’ It fits with Monica’s ethos. Her food is meticulously crafted and presented with flair and precision. It isn’t too much to ask, is it, that her customers take a little care with their appearance, too?


34

All Aboard for a Romantic Weekend at The Ship Inn

‘It must be love, love, love’. Yes, it’s that special time of year again, when you dream of escaping from the stresses of work and looking after the kids for a romantic rendezvous with your loved one on Valentine’s Day.

the perfect destination for a nearby weekend

During your weekend of love, wander around

getaway. Oozing charm and history, The Ship

the quaint harbour walls and be truly captivated

Inn, which was built in 1771, offers an ideal spot

by the sea. Head to the beautiful Dunnottar

to cosy up and enjoy precious ‘you’ time

Castle, where you can have an exciting

together.

views,

adventure or just gaze out across the peaceful

comfortable bedrooms and a snug restaurant,

cliffs. Dunnottar is most famous for the eight-

it’s easy to relax and forget about all your usual

month defence against the might of Cromwell’s

worries. And The Ship Inn is guaranteed to put

army to save the Scottish Crown Jewels, the

you in that romantic mood with its top class

‘Honours of Scotland’, from destruction - so this

restaurant, The Captain’s Table. Here you can sit

castle is perfect for you and your loved one to

With

picture

perfect

back and enjoy a dreamy dinner or a charming breakfast

overlooking

the

harbour.

The

Captain’s Table offers a wide range of freshly cooked dishes using only the finest local ingredients. With the great variety of courses,

explore. Renowned as Robert Burns’s favourite holiday spot, a weekend in Stonehaven will be the perfect time to let out the passionate Scottish poet within you.

So this year, why not make the most of

including seafood dishes such as seabass, crab

To book your perfect romantic weekend get-

February 14th and set sail with your other half

claw and mussel platter and salmon and dill

away or for more information on The Ship Inn

to the beautiful coastal town of Stonehaven?

fishcakes, all you have to do is unwind with

log on to www.shipinnstonehaven.com or

Located only 15 miles south of Aberdeen, it is

your partner and watch the ships come in.

phone (01569) 762617

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Alex Hay believes her first taste of celebrity TV will give guests an even greater appetite for dining at one of Scotland’s top country house hotels. The 26-year-old executive chef at Raemoir House in Banchory on Royal Deeside was the only woman to reach the quarter-finals of the latest series of BBC2’s MasterChef: The Professionals and said her appearances had served up “some of the most thrilling moments of my life.” Alex, who won the Grampian Chef of the Year title in 2011, was chosen from thousands of applicants to take part in the prime time show where she faced critiques from Michel Roux Jr and fellow judges Monica Galetti and Gregg Wallace. Before being selected, she had to provide her own sample menu and the current menu in place at Raemoir so organisers could scrutinise her style and standards of food at the hotel. “Being filmed was nerve-wracking, especially as we were under such great time pressure to cook the dishes and didn’t know our tasks until we got into the studio in a warehouse in Wandsworth, London,” she said. “I had to think and plan on my feet. However, I’m

always learning, and getting tips from household names like Michel has helped take my work to an even higher level. I’m looking forward to demonstrating this to Raemoir guests.” Raemoir owners Neil and Julie Rae persuaded Alex, who studied catering at Angus College in Arbroath, to join them from their Milton restaurant at Banchory as sous chef shortly after they bought the historic 20-bedroom hotel in 2010. Among dishes she cooked from scratch in the studio were her own variation on Roux’s mackerel tartlet, a sole mousse with scallops, and a butternut squash and sage velouté with pork and apple dumplings. She also had to prepare a dish from a range of ingredients including bone marrow, chicken thighs, kid goat, oysters and whelks, mangoes, white chocolate and dates. Neil Rae commented: “We are immensely proud of Alex. Her experience will add even more lustre to our restaurant.” Raemoir was voted Scotland’s Country House Hotel of the Year in 2011 and 2012, the first time that double had ever been achieved. In 2013 it won the Chefs’ Team category at the Scottish Hotel Awards.


36 Fondness for Fondue Fondue used to be a popular dish for dinner parties in the fifties, sixties and seventies. As the saying goes, "everything old is new again," and sales of fondue pots are booming, no doubt riding on a nostalgia wave.

Fondue originated in Switzerland as a way of using up French the from Deriving cheese. hardened verb fondre, meaning ‘to melt,’ fondue was a classic peasant dish. Accounts vary on how fondue was originally created. Traditional fondue is made with a mixture of Emmentaler and/or Gruyére cheese and wine, melted in a communal pot. Cherry brandy is added to the melted mixture, which becomes a dip for pieces of stale bread and crusts. French gastronome Brillat-Savarin mentioned fondue in his 19th century writings. However, fondue really hit its heyday in 1952, when chef Konrad Egli of New York's Chalet Swiss Restaurant introduced a fondue method of cooking meat cubes in hot oil. Chocolate fondue followed in 1964.

Fondue cooking tips • The addition of alcohol to fondues lowers the boiling point so that cheese proteins will not curdle, but take care not to boil it. • Heat cheese mixtures slowly so the cheese does not become rubbery. • When multiplying fondue recipes for larger crowds, remember there is less surface area to

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evaporate liquids, so you will not need as much as double the liquid of the original recipe. • Sparkling cider, apple juice, or champagne may be substituted for white wine in fondue recipes. • Use a good quality cheese in cheese fondues. • Fresh herbs, roasted garlic, sautéed minced onions, tomato paste and mustard are all excellent flavourings for cheese fondues. • For fondue that is too thick, increase the heat, add a little wine, and stir vigorously. • For fondue that is too thin, combine 1/2 teaspoon of flour or corn starch with an equal amount of wine. Stir into fondue until thickened. • Metal pots are better for oil-fried fondues or hot-pots, while ceramic is good for cheese and chocolate. • A crockpot may be used to keep cooked fondue warm. • Wine or hot black tea are recommended accompanying beverages for fondue. Some diners claim that drinking water with fondue makes the cheese congeal in the stomach causing digestion problems. • Leftover fondue may be used as a topping for potatoes or vegetables. Refrigerate, chop and add to frittatas, omelettes, or scrambled eggs.


37

Aberdeen Goes Native With Nick Scotland’s best known chef has unveiled his new restaurant in Aberdeen, putting local produce at the top of the menu. Nick Nairn is working with a range of north-east food producers to give a distinctive taste to his restaurant in the Hilton Garden Inn Aberdeen City Centre. “We’re working around the clock at the moment to deliver something really special,” said Nick. “We’ve called the restaurant Native because the food we are serving belongs here. We’re committed to supporting local suppliers and showcasing the best they have to offer so that means top quality local grass-reared beef and lamb and amazing seafood from Aberdeen and Peterhead,” continued

Nick. To celebrate Scotland’s National Day on November 30th Nick created a fantastic dinner to showcase the country’s fantastic produce. The menu included Nick’s original cure smoked salmon, hand-dived Orkney scallops, 28-day dry-aged Native cross-breed beef fillet and ‘Three Chimneys’ warm marmalade sponge pudding with Drambuie custard. The 80-seat restaurant opened following a major refurbishment project by Hilton Garden Inn Aberdeen City Centre. With luxurious fabrics and furnishings, Native has a contemporary urban feel. That’s balanced by a range of nostalgic local images lining the walls. The Native opening comes 18

months after Nick launched his Cook School in Aberdeen and represents a further major commitment to the area. “Aberdeen is where it’s happening. The Cook School has proved local people love good food and Native is opening to make sure they get what they deserve,” said Nick. Native is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Next month Nick is back soon on our TV screens in a new series with his friend and fellow chef Paul Rankin. Nick is committed to improving the standard of cooking and eating in Scotland and has been working with the Scottish Government to achieve that.

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Well-known, local, award-winning chef David Littlewood, who has featured on the Hairy Bikers Food Tour of Britain, and his brother-in-law Nigel Hake always shared a dream to run their own restaurant. The two joined forces and when they saw Kildrummy Inn, an old coach house dating back to the 1850s, was available to buy, they saw it as the perfect opportunity to turn their vision into a reality. Together with their wives, Sophie and Helen, they have invested in this four-star, fourbedroomed inn with a thirty-seat restaurant? This traditional pub is creaking with authenticity and charm and with David, Scotland’s Chef of the Year 2013, in the kitchen, is sure to be a huge success. His menus feature modern Scottish dishes which are regularly changing depending on the produce local gamekeepers and farmers supply. David prepares and freshly cooks the entire menu, including home-made fudge, ice cream and pastries, as well as butchering meat on-site. David explains: “We were waiting for the right opportunity and when Kildrummy Inn came along, we fell in love with the place – it’s the perfect location. Customers tell us what they like to see on the menu and we speak to local suppliers to arrange it. We know exactly where all our produce comes from, we speak to the right people and adapt our menu, especially depending on seasons. It’s our ethos.” David’s culinary career began in 2001 when, after working in various restaurants, he went to work for Brian Mutch at the Miami Beach Restaurant in Aberdeen, where he began his apprenticeship. Just a year later, David won Grampian Young Chef of the Year and began training with the junior culinary team under the management of Scott Lyall and Robert Bruce.


In October 2002 he moved to Ballathie House, Perthshire with Kevin MacGillivray, working mainly in pastry. In 2004 he moved to Café 52 in Aberdeen as sous chef and was soon promoted to head chef. In 2006 a chance meeting with Neil Rae resulted in a job offer as head chef at the prestigious Milton Restaurant at Crathes, which Neil owned. In 2007 he competed in, and won Grampian Chef of the Year, and in the same year the Milton Restaurant won Grampian Restaurant of the Year. In September 2010, Neil Rae purchased Raemoir House Hotel where David spent many happy years as executive chef. To add to his achievements the restaurant at Raemoir House gained its second AA Rosette in 2011. David was a finalist in Scottish Chef of the Year in 2009 and won the award for best main course. Again in 2011 he made the finals then in 2013 he finally claimed the title of Scottish Chef of the Year in the competition, which included guest judge Albert Roux. David is also the youngest vice president of The Federation of Chefs Scotland and will be instrumental in the growth of the organisation over the next few years developing and nurturing the future talent in the Scottish culinary industry. The new owners of Kildrummy Inn have safeguarded the jobs of existing employees and casual staff and it will be run as a family-orientated business. With the Littlewood and Hake families at the helm, Kildrummy Inn will also look to open during lunch hours and will potentially start an afternoon tea menu. In addition, plans are being made to make better use of the function hall and promote weddings. It is easy to see why David was able to beat the Hairy Bikers on their food trip around Britain. He has an amazing passion for food and incredible culinary skills. So the Kildrummy Inn is in good hands and certainly worth a visit! For reservations ring, (1975) 571227.


Not only does the coothie village of Rothienorman deliver a quiet slice of north-east countryside; it serves up delicious food too. Snuggled amid the tumbling green the village is home to The Steadin, a comfy and cosy rural retreat. You’ll find traditional Scottish fayre that is tasty and freshly made with generous portions to appease the hungriest loon. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, this gem of a restaurant deserves to be popular.

own menu, which includes juice and a scoop of ice cream in the price.

The breakfast menu includes rolls oozing with assorted fillings or try the full Steadin breakfast for only £5.00. Lunchtime treats include an assortment of sandwiches, baked potatoes, paninis and toasties. Meet some friends for a ‘fly’ cup or afternoon tea, or make dinner conversation between mouthfuls of sizzling steaks or mince and mealie. Sweet tooth fans won’t be disappointed either with desserts ranging from sticky toffee pudding to banana split. The bairns are catered for too with their

The experienced and friendly staff offer evolving specialities which you can view on their website www.thesteadin.co.uk. But I must tell you about the ‘pensioners special’ served from Monday to Friday between 12.00 and 2.00 p.m. With a delicious two course meal for only £5.95, I say roll on the years!!

No time to sit in but too busy to cook? Take advantage of the takeaway service and impress the family with delicious food at a further reduced rate. The upstairs function room caters for up to 40 guests offering the perfect venue for that special occasion. Just think….a good time and great food with no stress!

‘Hidden gem’ is often an overused expression but with great quality food at amazing prices the Steadin certainly is one. Give it a visit now!!


When it comes to romantic repast, a lovingly home-cooked dinner will score you top marks. So dim the lights and stir up some seduction. The mood Nobody wants to be greeted by a sweaty, flustered host with dubious stains all down their apron, so pick recipes that can be prepared calmly in advance or assembled easily while they wait. Fill the house with good smells (if the oven isn't producing any, cheat with a scented candle) and make sure there are drinks on hand to welcome them. That means champagne, wine, their favourite spirit or something fruity and posh for a non-drinker. Fancy table settings aren’t the be-all and end-all of mealtime seduction, but nobody ever got lucky after a supper on beanbag lap trays. So make a bit of effort with a nice tablecloth and flowers or, if you don’t have a dining table, try a picnic on the floor with cushions and sharing plates. Beware of background music. While that Barry White compilation CD might be a great idea if you’re planning an evening straight out of a Jilly Cooper novel, there’s a hefty chance your date might just get the giggles. Keep it subtle. And forget locking yourself away in the kitchen; your guest wants to spend time with you, not an empty place setting. If you’re not ready when they arrive, let them help with some of the cooking – it’ll give you plenty of opportunities for hand-brushing and lingering looks over the crisper drawer.

intended). Instead, choose recipes that you feel confident with and know you can cook well. It might sound obvious, but cook something you actually like. If shellfish makes you squirm, wincing your way through a plate of oysters won't make for successful seduction. Far better to choose a food you both love and cook it in the nicest way you can. Cooking for two is a great excuse to splash out on luxurious ingredients like scallops or fillet steak, but humble dishes like pie or stir-fry can be just as romantic if you pick a great recipe. Dessert will be your pièce de résistance, so make it sinful – meringues can be made earlier and turned quickly into mini pavlovas, while chocolate mousse is a Valentine’s classic for a reason. Asparagus Believed to have such potent properties that 19th-century bridegrooms were fed three courses of the stuff, asparagus falls into the naughtily-shaped category of aphrodisiac grub. Try it lightly grilled with a soft-boiled egg for a simple starter and try to eat it with a straight face.

Spice it up Chilli, ginger and garlic are all stimulants that increase heart rate and get blood pumping around the body – ideal for adding a little va va voom to your Valentine's dinner. Combine them all in an oriental noodle recipe (but prepare for sexy slurping) or go for a feisty dessert with chocolate and chilli or ginger. Not garlic. Nuts Almonds, cashews, pine nuts and sesame seeds are all rich in zinc, which stimulates the libido and is thought to aid fertility. Chocolate We don’t need a lot of science to convince us that chocolate’s an aphrodisiac, but just in case you do… it contains phenylethylamine, which the body releases naturally when it's in love, as well as serotonin and dopamine to make you feel happy and calm. It also melts in contact with the body and mouth, which just adds to the sensual experience. In fact, forget the date, just give us a bar now. Honey

The meal

Oysters

While some foods look naughty, others are said to be aphrodisiacs for their texture, such as honey. Sticky, sweet and thoroughly lickable, it's also rich in vitamin B, which increases testosterone production. If you get lucky, don't forget to thank the bees.

Unless you're a cordon bleu cook, Valentine's Day is not the occasion to be super-ambitious. Attempting your first soufflé under the pressure of romantic expectation might just leave you with egg on your face (pun

The classic go-to for debauched dining – just ask Casanova, who reportedly ate 50 for breakfast each morning. Learn how to prepare and eat oysters in an elegant fashion and they’ll be a treat well worth shelling out for.

But whatever you cook, keep the portions modest and try not to scoff all the ingredients. We're aiming for romance, not Rennies (and you can always eat the leftovers after they’ve gone home).

Here are some other foods with aphrodisiac qualities to help you on your way:


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Jam Roly-poly This jam roly-poly is simple to make, comforting and sure to bring back memories of traditional school dinners Ingredients • 50g salted butter, cold and cut into chunks, plus extra for greasing • 250g self-raising flour, plus extra for rolling • 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out • 50g shredded suet • 150ml milk, plus a drop more if needed • 100g/4oz raspberry or plum jam, or a mixture • custard, to serve

Method 1: Put a deep roasting tin onto the bottom shelf of the oven and make sure that there’s another shelf directly above it. Pull the roasting tin out on its shelf, fill two-thirds with boiling water from the kettle, then carefully slide it back in. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Tear off a large sheet of foil and greaseproof paper (about 30 x 40cm). Sit the grease proof paper on top of the foil and butter it. 2: Tip butter, flour and vanilla seeds into a food processor; pulse until the butter has disappeared. Tip into a mixing bowl. Stir through the suet, pour in the milk and work together with a cutlery knife until you get a sticky dough. You may need a drop more milk, depending on your flour. 3: Tip the dough out onto a floured surface, quickly pat together to smooth, then roll out to a square roughly 25 x 25cm. Spread the jam all over, leaving a gap along one edge, then roll up from the opposite edge. Pinch the jam-free edge into the dough where it meets, and pinch the ends roughly, too. Carefully lift onto the greased paper, join-side down (you might find a flat baking sheet helpful for this), loosely bring up the paper and foil around it, then scrunch together along the edges and ends to seal. The roly-poly will puff quite a bit during cooking so don’t wrap it tightly. Lift the parcel directly onto the rack above the tin and cook for 1 hr. 4: Let the pudding sit for 5 mins before unwrapping, then carefully open the foil and paper, and thickly slice to serve.

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Matt Ingham is head chef at The Prime Cuts restaurant, the amazing steak and lobster house in Aberdeen’s Crown Terrace. He is married with two children and originally from Huddersfield. He has been with The Prime Cuts for 2½ years and is now a shareholder in the business. Since he’s been involved with the restaurant, he has taken it to a new culinary level and sales have increased by 25%. Matt has a rich pedigree of working in prestigious establishments. Originally trained at The Udny Arms in Newburgh when it was owned by the Craig family in 1995/96, Matt has also worked at The Fat Duck, Le Gavroche, Tom Aitkins and Petrus. Before joining The Prime Cuts, Matt worked for two years at The Castle Hotel in Huntly, and prior to that worked alongside his wife and brother at The Innkeepers in Skipton and the 2rosette/5-star Woodhall Hotel in Wetherby.


Q: So Matt, what brought you to the kitchen at The Prime Cuts Restaurant? A: I was looking for a new challenge and The Prime Cuts provided me with the freedom to experiment with my dishes and be adventurous with them. As a result of this, it has helped raise the restaurant’s profile. Q: How would you describe your style of cooking and the menu you have created? A: I’d describe my dishes as primarily classic but with a modern twist. I love putting a modern interpretation on classic Scottish dishes, such as my deconstructed cranachan. Q: Most restaurants claim their ingredients are locally sourced. Is this the case at The Prime Cuts? A: Yes, we have an excellent selection of local suppliers who provide us with the very best of local produce. Scotland is so lucky in that respect as we are spoilt for choice in having so much in the way of quality produce right on our doorsteps. The food industry is really burgeoning in this area, which is great for chefs as it makes it easier for us to be more creative. Q: Grampian region is home to the Aberdeen Angus herd. Is this a dominant product on your menu? A: Not as such. It is generally agreed the Aberdeen Angus strain runs throughout the cattle industry in Scotland and that ‘Scottish’ beef is amongst the finest beef in the world. We also like to offer people new experiences, so we also use New York strip (black Angus for the US) and Wagyu Beef (Japanese Kobe style). Q: Would you say you had a particular signature dish? A: It’s hard to narrow it down to just one, as there are several that I’m particularly proud of. I’d say my Lapsang tea and maple-smoked venison loin, parsnip crème brûlée, blood orange gel with blackberries and candied walnuts have to be among my favourites. Mind you, there’s also my Cullen Skink with a twist, a fillet of smoked haddock wrapped in

potato strings served on a baby leek terrine with chive velouté and a Mull cheddar muffin… Q: Wine plays an important part in the dining experience. Do you liaise with the sommelier to ensure the correct wines are available to partner your dishes? A: We are very privileged to have a wine buyer that does an outstanding job. Whenever he is changing wines on the list, we will discuss which dishes to pair them with. We have excellent relationships with our wine suppliers and enjoy regular visits from vineyard owners to introduce us to their wines. Diners are welcome to ask our advice about which wines will complement their chosen dishes. We always have a great selection of wines to partner our food, including some from the less well-known wine growing countries such as Lebanon. Q: You have held some amazing wine tasting events. Is this something you plan to continue? A: Our wine tasting events have been hugely popular and we are looking at building on that success by introducing a series of wine and food pairing events. Plus, for whisky lovers, we’re going to do something similar, offering a number of specially selected whiskies served with a tantalising selection of complimentary foods. There should be something to satisfy all palettes. Q: You have several rooms for private dining, business lunches and special occasions. How does the food differ in these venues? A: Our menus can be adapted to suit all occasions. For example, we are happy to serve dishes from our à la carte menu for tables of up to 12 diners, or put on tasting menus or signature dishes for any occasion, whether it’s for private dining or business events. For a chef, this is really great because I get to adapt my dishes to suit the event rather than keeping them the same all the time. As the saying goes, variety is the spice of life!


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Mustard Chicken with Winter Vegetables Ingredients • 1 chicken, about 1.8kg/4lb in weight • 2 onions • 6 celery sticks • 6 carrots • 2 bay leaves • 2 thyme sprigs • 1 tsp black peppercorn • 50g butter • 100g smoked bacon lardons • 3 small turnips, peeled and cut into wedges • 1 tbsp plain flour • 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 3 rounded tbsp crème fraîche • good handful parsley, chopped

Method 1: Put the chicken in a large pot. Halve 1 onion, 1 celery stick and 1 carrot. Add to the pot with the herbs, peppercorns and a sprinkling of salt. Add water to come halfway up the chicken, bring to the boil, then cover tightly and simmer for 1½ hrs. Cool slightly, remove the chicken to a dish, then strain the stock into a bowl. 2: When the chicken is cool enough to handle, strip the meat from the bones and tear into pieces with your hands. 3: Chop the remaining onion, and cut the celery and carrots into thick slices. Heat the butter in the same pot, add the onion and lardons, then gently fry for 5 mins until just starting to brown. Add the remaining veg, then fry for 2 mins. Stir in the flour, then cook for 1 min. Measure 900ml stock (if you don’t have enough, make it up with water), then gradually add to the pan, stirring. Cover, then simmer for 20-25 mins until vegetables are tender. 4: Return the chicken to the pan with the mustard and crème fraîche, then return to a simmer, stirring gently. Season and sprinkle with parsley.

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Scoop a Soup

Cullen Skink is one of our favourite winter warming soups and is becoming increasingly popular in restaurants throughout the north east. However, Hornblowers, the award-winning fish and chip restaurant on West Quay, Gourdon, have created an alternative in a sunnier bouillabaisse. They have agreed to share it with our readers so come on, give it a go. It’s absolutely delicious!

Fish Soup Base To make 5 portions Use by: 4 days Ingredient • 3 rashers smoked back bacon diced • 300g chopped onion • 3 cloves garlic • 2 sticks peeled chopped celery • 550g 1cm-diced potatoes • 100ml white wine - Picpoul • 2l fish stock • pinch of saffron • 150g chopped tinned tomatoes • 1 tbs umami paste • 10g fine chopped dill • splash pastis & Noilly Prat

Method 1: Fry off bacon with no fat in the pan until starts to brown. 2: Add onion, garlic and celery. Fry until soft on a medium heat. 3: Add potatoes and fry for another 2 minutes. 4: Raise the temperature to high and add the white wine, a splash of pastis and Noilly Prat. 5: When the alcohol has burnt off, add the umami paste, tomatoes, then fish stock and saffron. 6: Simmer on a medium heat until the potatoes are soft. 7: Remove from heat, blend using stick blender until no lumps are visible, then pass through a chinois and then a sieve. 8: Add dill and season to finish.

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Skye High! Duisdale House on Skye has been named the best small hotel in the UK. The 18-bedroom boutique hotel overlooking the Sound of Sleat won the accolade at the International Hotel Awards at London’s Grosvenor House. More than 2,000 applications from 93 countries were received for the awards, judged by a panel chaired by Sir David Michels, former Chief Executive Officer of Hilton Hotels.

News Bites...

Meldrum House Wins International Hotel Award competed against hotels from Scotland, England, Wales and Northern Ireland for the five-star Best Small Hotel status.

After being presented with a plaque at the gala dinner, Anne Gracie, who owns and runs Duisdale with Ken Gunn, said: “Winning the title of the best small hotel in the UK is a tribute to our team’s hard work, skills and dedication to customer service. We are thrilled to have been compared favourably with so many of the best hotels in the world.” Duisdale was recently voted the best hotel in Scotland’s Highlands and Islands in the annual Thistle Awards. It and its nearby sister hotel, Toravaig House, are the only hotels in Scotland with a luxury yacht provided exclusively for guests’ use. Toravaig won a ‘Highly Commended’ award for its website at the London event. Stuart Shield, President of the International Hotel Awards, commented: “Every country has a separate rating system for the standard of their hotels but the International Hotel Awards provide a global standard to even the mark from country to country. The UK winners are exceptional hotels.”

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Meldrum House Country Hotel and Golf Course in Oldmeldrum has won a five-star award in the UK’s Best Small Hotel category at the International Hotel Awards. Peter Walker, general manager of Meldrum House, received the accolade on behalf of the hotel at a glittering ceremony held at The Grosvenor Hotel in London. The International Hotel Awards are sponsored by Virgin Atlantic and Meldrum House

Peter Walker, general manager at Meldrum House said: “It was a wonderful evening and I was honoured to collect the Award on behalf of Meldrum House. The International Hotel Awards is run on a global basis and attaining this accolade will help to put Meldrum on the world map and act as further reassurance to travellers of the exceptional quality of facilities and service they can expect if they choose to stay here.” Meldrum House has received a raft of new awards and accolades in 2013, including being named Best Hotel in the North East in the Scottish Tourist Board Thistle Awards and Hotel Star in the Aberdeenshire Trend Awards.


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Young Local Butcher Scoops Top Award

News Bites Deeside Development

A young employee of a leading north east butchery firm has scooped another prestigious industry award.

opened earlier this year. Commenting on

Andrew Peter of Davidsons Specialist Butchers was recently named as the UK Young Butcher of the Year at the Plaisterers’ Hall in London. The award was presented as part of the annual Butcher’s Shop of the Year Awards organised by Meat Trades Journal.

“Although we are fortunate to be familiar

Andrew is the current holder of the SFMTA Young Butcher of the Year accolade and demonstrated his skills at this year’s Royal Highland Show. Davidsons Specialist Butchers – which operates from three locations in Aberdeen and Inverurie, Aberdeenshire – was also a finalist in the New Butchery Business of the Year in recognition of the McCombie’s Court shop in Aberdeen city centre which

the company’s ongoing success on the awards circuit, John Davidson said: with the awards circuit, every win is very special and a tremendous achievement

It’s not only the city of Aberdeen

for all involved.

that is benefiting from new hotel

“We are particularly proud of young

construction.

Andrew’s success – his talent and passion

Enterprises have announced they

for the industry is unsurpassed and he is

are to develop the former Potarch

a valued member of the team. We look forward to supporting him as he furthers his career.” For further information on Davidsons Specialist Butchers, visit: www.johndavidsons.com email shop@johndavidsons.com

Ballogie

Estate

Hotel, on beautiful Deeside, in a £7 million project with an opening time

of

autumn

2015.

The

refurbished hotel, to be known as The Ballogie Hotel and Spa, will offer 40 bedrooms, a restaurant with seating for 60, a spa and conference facilities.

or call (01467) 621212.

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How about a hotel that claims the best views on Scotland’s west coast and is situated next door to one of its finest gardens? Owned and run by Scotland’s 2013 Hoteliers of the Year, Loch Melfort Hotel is set in 17 acres of gardens and beach on the coast of Argyll near Oban. It looks out to the islands of Islay, Jura and Scarba, with the world-famous Corryvreckan Whirlpool three miles out to sea. Each of the 25 bedrooms has uninterrupted sea views. The hotel is adjacent to the magnificent Arduaine Gardens, owned by the National Trust for Scotland and open all year-round. Not surprisingly, in the 2013 Scottish Hotel Awards Loch Melfort was named Most Romantic Hotel in the Highlands. There are plenty of dining options. The AA 2-rosette Asknish Bay Restaurant’s menu might include freshly caught langoustines, lobster and crab, Islay scallops, select cuts of meat from Barbreck Farm in Ardfern, and game, seasonal vegetables and aromatic herbs sourced from local suppliers. The informal Chartroom Bistro offers high

quality casual dining at reasonable prices. Return from a bracing coastal walk for afternoon tea or ask the hotel to make you up a picnic hamper. Whisky lovers might want to make it their base for a tour of distilleries in Oban, Campbeltown, Mull, Islay and Jura. The local area is rich in wildlife, history and archaeology. The Kilmartin museum and trail, which includes the crowning site of early Scottish kings, is a few miles away. To link in with Valentine’s Day, Melfort is offering a break any time in February from £160 per person. This includes two nights’ bed and breakfast with a special dinner in the two AA-rosette restaurant. A bottle of champagne and a box of chocolates can be waiting in your room on request. Guests who book two nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast for March or April before the end of December receive a 20% discount and those who book for three nights a 25% reduction. The bluebells and first rhododendrons will be flowering then at Arduaine. To make a reservation or for more information, call (01852) 200233 or email reception@lochmelfort.co.uk


Spa, golf, luxurious accommodation - and fine dining. Mar Hall has them all. The five-star resort, situated on a 240-acre estate overlooking the River Clyde a few miles from Glasgow, is the ideal base for a west coast break. Go shopping or enjoy the culture or nightlife in Scotland’s biggest city - gearing itself up for hosting the Commonwealth Games in July - and be back in the lap of luxury in 20 minutes. Mar Hall is a mere 10 minute drive from Glasgow Airport. Mind you, there’s no need to leave the resort at all. Attractions include a Decleor Spa offering a wide range of treatments, a 20-metre heated swimming pool and a fully equipped gym. Its 18 hole championship golf course has spectacular views over the Clyde and to the Kilpatrick Hills beyond. Designed by highly acclaimed architect Dave Thomas, it is open 365 days of the year on full tees and greens, and plays just as well in winter as it does in summer. Mar Hall is the official hotel for the Scottish football team and has its own full FIFA size pitch. Other football teams which have stayed there and enjoyed the facilities include the Italian national side, Barcelona, AC Milan, Arsenal and Liverpool.

Countless celebrities including Brad Pitt and Kylie Minogue have stayed in one of the 53 individually designed bedrooms and suites in the Gothic-style baronial mansion, originally designed to resemble a stately house from the Elizabethan era. The Cristal restaurant is the setting for fine dining. Dishes prepared by French executive chef Eric Avenier and his team might include Twice Baked Mull Cheddar Cheese Soufflé, Herb Crusted 3 Bone Rack of Ayrshire Lamb, Roast Canon of Highland Venison, Cappuccino Crème Brûlée or a Semi-freddo Tia Maria and Hazelnut Parfait. Light lunches, snacks and afternoon tea are served in the Grand Hall - 36 metres long with ornate high ceilings and furnished with French-style Louis XIV chairs, paintings and tapestries. Mar Hall is a favourite romantic destination for couples and is offering a Valentine’s Day package for £385 for two including a half bottle of pink Moet & Chandon Champagne in the room on arrival, a candlelit dinner in the Cristal restaurant and full Scottish breakfast. Spa treatments, a glass of bubbly, petit fours and full use of the leisure facilities can be added for £110 per couple or taken as a day package.


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Cranberry-Pecan Croutons with Gruyère and Rosemary Ingredients • A crusty loaf of cranberry-pecan bread • 3 tbs unsalted butter • 3 oz coarsely grated Gruyère • 2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary • Flaky sea salt

Method 1: Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler element and set the broiler on high. Cut 24 1-inch cubes from the loaf of bread. 2 :Melt 2 tbs of the butter in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet over a medium heat. Add the bread cubes, arranging them half an inch or more apart, and cook until the bottoms are golden, about 1 minute. Turn the cubes over and add the remaining 1 tbs butter. 3 :Remove the skillet from the heat and top the croutons with the Gruyère and rosemary. Broil until the cheese melts, about 30 seconds. Sprinkle with sea salt. Using a metal spatula, loosen the croutons from the bottom of the pan and separate each so they’re easier to pick up. Serve in the skillet with a kitchen towel wrapped around the handle, offering tooth picks or small forks for spearing the croutons.

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The team at Beetroot Restaurants certainly know how to impress! The Courtyard, tucked away in Alford Lane, is perfect for making romantic conversation between mouthfuls of incredible food. It now boasts a cosier, less formal setting and is a sanctuary for (food) lovers! However, top of my list is its sister restaurant, La Stella, in the Adelphi. It’s small, cosy and intimate and the food is perfection. I believe it’s been newly refurbished and I haven’t paid a visit since then but I’m sure it will be up to its usual high standard. www.thecourtyardaberdeen.co.uk www.lastella.co.uk If the French accents are not enough to set a girl a-quiver, then the setting surely will at the superb and celebrated Silver Darling at Aberdeen Harbour. Not only will the delicious seafood impress, but the old granite custom house also provides spectacular views over the harbour and bay ensuring the perfect romantic rendezvous. www.thesilverdarling.co.uk It’s only a twenty minute drive to one of the area’s most romantic dining experiences. Your partner will be bowled over by the great food and atmosphere at Eat on the Green in Udny Green where the ‘Kilted Chef’, Craig Wilson, will ensure your evening is a memorable one. Amazing dishes made from local produce and attentive but not obtrusive staff are key at this award-winning restaurant. It really is something special! www.eatonthegreen.co.uk Also just a short drive into the Deeside countryside sits the majestic Mercure Ardoe House Hotel. Have a drink in Soapie’s Lounge Bar before dining on gourmet cuisine at Blairs Restaurant. There’s a real regal feel about the place, just perfect for pampering your little princess! www.mercure.com Can you think of a better Valentine’s setting than Montmartre Restaurant Français in Justice Mill Lane? It’s small and intimate and serves the finest quality French cuisine. Toast your loved one with champagne in a cosy candlelit setting, serenaded by music to soothe the soul. It’s a true boutique dining experience where you can absorb the charm and character of 1890s Paris. www.cafe-montmartre.co.uk It’s no surprise Rendezvous at Nargile has been voted best Mediterranean restaurant 2013 in the Scottish Entertainment Awards. You are guaranteed great food and the décor is contemporary yet warm. The extensive menu features a strong focus on traditional meze dishes, beautifully and uniquely prepared. A night that could be full of Eastern promise!! www.rendezvousatnargile.co.uk

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54 Ardoe House Hotel

Twice-Baked Lanark Blue Soufflé Ingredients • 425ml milk • 1 small onion thickly sliced • pinch nutmeg • 2 fresh or dried bay leaves • 4 tbsp butter, plus extra for greasing • 7 tbsp plain flour • 4 eggs, separated • 160g Lanark blue cheese, finely crumbled • 150ml double cream

Method 1: Heat oven to 180C and then put milk, onion, nutmeg and bay leaves into a pan. Bring to the boil, then set aside to infuse for 30 mins. Butter 8 x 150ml ramekins. 2: Melt the butter in a second saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 min, stirring. Take off the heat and gradually whisk in the milk until smooth. Discard onion and bay leaf. Return to the hob and stir until the sauce boils and thickens. 3: Off the heat, stir in the egg yolks and three quarters of the cheese, then season. Scrape mixture into a large mixing bowl. In another big bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Boil a full kettle. Carefully fold the whites into the cheese mix and fill ramekins almost full. Transfer to a roasting tin, then pour the boiling water into the tin until it reaches halfway up the ramekins. Bake for approximately 20 mins or until risen, just set and still a little wobbly. Take out of the tin and leave to cool. 4: To serve, heat the oven to 200C and loosen the soufflés around the edges with a knife, then turn out, upside down, into a shallow ovenproof dish. Sprinkle with rest of cheese, then spoon 1 tbsp cream over each soufflé. Bake for 10-12 mins till puffed and golden on the top (or 12-15 mins at the lower temperature). Serve at once with cream.

savour

Issue 06 2013


Throw open our regal doors and prepare yourself for a friendly, hearty Scottish welcome. Recently re launched the contemporary Blairs Restaurant. Set in 30 acres of beautiful countryside, there is no better setting to enjoy the very best of seasonal ingredients Scotland’s larder has to offer than Blairs at Ardoe House. Ardoe House Hotel Where traditional Scottish hospitality and luxury are standard

Contact us to book your table on +44(0)1224 860 600 or email h6626-re@accor.com www.mercure.com

Ardoe House Hotel and Spa

@Ardoe House



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