S FR E P O RTE R .CO M / FO O D
Marquez Deli’s new menu is so excellent it took two trips
BY ALEX DE VORE a l e x @ s f r e p o r t e r. c o m
G
ather ‘round, ye children, and I’ll tell you the tale of the time I had the best French toast of my life. Having watched eagerly for weeks as Marquez Deli (Lunch Tuesday-Friday; brunch and lunch Saturday and Sunday; closed Monday; 513 Camino De Los Marquez, (505) 365-2113) teased a new menu online, and learning the new menu finally dropped last week, I popped by over the weekend with a dining companion to check out the brunch items. Unexpectedly, and as is rarer and rarer these days, I wound up stumped by what to order. Everything on the weekend-only brunch menu entices, from a Nova Scotia smoked salmon scramble ($14) to the classic Belgian waffle ($12) served with creme fraiche, seasonal berries and bananas—plus real maple syrup. The poor server had to return several times as we tortured ourselves over what we were willing to miss out on, but my confidence returned upon selecting and sticking with French toast made with creme brulée batter (also with creme fraiche, berries and syrup; $14). My companion settled on the Farmer’s Tan omelette with
roasted potatoes, green onion, bell peppers transcended omelettes as we know them...to memory if it’s done right; if there’s some hall and goat cheese ($12), and we’ve both been the point, in fact, that my words might sound of fame for doing sandwiches right, Hadidi’s haunted by the excellence ever since. flowery and hyperbolic—gushy, even—but I’m portrait should hang there. But first, the bagels. Oh, the bagels! Chef/ so in love with Hadidi’s food I honestly don’t My own sandwich was a revelation of owner Alex Hadidi has them brought in spe- care. textures and flavors with the saltiness of the cial from New York City’s Chabad Lubovitch Cut to three days later and I was desper- tapenade mingling with the mild yet tangy every four days, and someplace between the ately begging anyone who’d listen to join me goat cheese to create a taste not unlike feta, everything and sesame varieties we ordered, for lunch at Marquez Deli with promises of but still its own thing. The eggplant, which can I left my body and floated overhead begrudg- sandwich nirvana. In retrospect, even that wind up bitter or even just served too thick, ingly accepting every smug New Yorker’s feels like I’m selling the second meal short. was cut thin and fried to a satisfying exteri“They’re just better,” rhetoor crisp; the sweet pickle on the ric I’ve ever heard. Fresh and side added even more depth. My chewy doesn’t even begin companion’s sandwich was someto properly explain it, but if thing special as well, which made you can just accept they’re her remark something about how the most flavorful bagels I’ve she’d never had avocado on grilled found in Santa Fe bar none, cheese, but it tasted so good at you’ll already be taking a step Marquez Deli that it now feels in the right direction—and obvious, like when someone tells maybe you won’t mind that you something you should have they clock in at $4.50 with a known all along. Grilled on classic schmear of cream cheese, towhite bread, her sandwich stayed mato, onion and capers. soft throughout its center through When the French toast the whole meal, and the cheese and omelette came, we almost stayed gooey but never seemed thought we’d filled up on bagreasy or overwhelming as such gels, but even if that had been sandwiches sometimes can. the truest thing of all time, it “This is incredible,” we repeatdidn’t matter. Looking light edly told each other, even going and fluffy and delectable with so far as to cut little pieces off our the creme fraiche melting respective sandwiches for a tense down the sides, the enticing trade. Marquez Deli served up some of the best French toast, omelettes and mix of eggy vanilla goodness is “I was going to take half of this bagels we’ve ever had in Santa Fe. literally the best I’ve had anywith me,” I said, finishing the eggplace ever, and I make a mean plant outright, “but it just tastes French toast at home. With the accompany- Hadidi has excellent options for vegetarians too good.” ing maple syrup, a symphony of subtle and on his lunch menu, and I selected Ella’s fried Sated, but not overfull, we continued disnot-so-subtle flavors unveiled themselves eggplant parmesan sandwich ($13) with ba- cussing the meal all the way back to the office. in turn, making no two bites taste alike and sil, roasted peppers, olive tapenade and goat I’d bet you $50 she’s still thinking about it trouncing on the idea that thicker French cheese with no doubt in my mind whatsoever. now. toast is superior. Likewise, my companion’s My companion, meanwhile, chose Matthew’s And so we shall return. Probably even imomelette was a masterclass in eggs cooked grilled cheese—a house blend of cheeses mediately. Hadidi’s new menu isn’t massive, well, with the savory potatoes inside provid- with avocado and tomato ($8)—and said but there are numerous items I need to try. ing a sublime counterpoint to the bite of the something inexorably true about how a good In the meantime, I’ll need all of Santa Fe to onion and the creamy goat cheese. Served grilled cheese can conjure up youthful mem- get on this train immediately. Marquez Deli with an expertly crispy latke on the side, it ories but can also become its own new kind of deserves a place in our hearts forever. ALEX DE VORE
So Nice We Went Twice
FOOD
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