Far Flung Travel
by Chuck Graham
The Big South
N
ot sure how many times I’ve driven Highway 1 along the Big Sur Coast, in Central California, but I’ve always wondered what’s below those sheer, towering cliffs. I found out last October. From Andrew Molera State Beach, myself and two stand-up paddlers, Patrick O’hea and Will Miller, launched off a cobbled beach strewn in splintered driftwood and tangled mounds of kelp to explore a good chunk of this breathtaking coastline. The two former U.S. National Rowing Team members joined me at the trailhead of Andrew Molera. Beneath a canopy of oak trees and pine forests, we portaged stand-up paddleboards, one kayak and four days’ worth of dry bags full of food and gear a mile to the rugged shoreline. Little did we know it was to be our easiest launch throughout the entire trip. On a full tide, we easily paddled past cresting waves smothered in elkhorn kelp, leaving the spooky Point Sur Lighthouse in our wake. We paddled for roughly 22 miles that first day when it was time to find a campsite before it got too dark. We gathered inside Partington Cove, where a building swell was washing
up the cliffsides. Back in the 1800s, John Partinton set up a business harvesting and hauling the bark of tanbark oak down to ships anchored in the relatively calm waters of the concealed cove. During prohibition in the 1920s, Partinton Cove was also rumored to be a smugglers’ route moving liquor through the long, dark tunnel that empties out into the deepwater anchorage. It later served as a convenient equipment dropping point for the construction of Highway 1. It was here where we were all in agreement that this entire coastline might be nothing but the sheer cliffs seen from the serpentine-like highway from above. So far, there hadn’t been many beaches along the Big Sur Coast to land on. Several small beaches we did encounter wouldn’t allow a landing due to large surf. I knew, though, that the beach at McWay Falls a few miles farther south would suffice, where deep water forced swells to gather momentum before crashing on a steep, gravely, deserted beach. All of us landed without incident where we pitched tents and dried soggy gear. A quick rinse in frigid McWay Falls took my breath away before we soaked in the last moments
of sunset. Dark clouds were on the approach as one of California’s first winter storms was due to hit in the morning. It wasn’t long before we were lulled to sleep by the constant rush of the falls converging with the thundering surf. At dawn we woke to gray, drizzly skies, and the surf was pulsing with the incoming tide. After we packed our gear, it began to rain steadily and visibility was poor. The rain forced crumbly shale to cascade down directly behind us, as the last tent was packed away. After helping O’hea and Miller through the surf, it was my turn to launch.
Visibility grew worse. I told Miller and O’hea to stay just outside the mouth of the cove so I could see them, but I could barely make them out as the low clouds and ocean looked like one and the same with the rain persisting. The larger surf also made it tricky to get off the beach. There was some pesky knee-high backwash gaining steam off the rocks to my right, making it difficult to steady my kayak for a launch. Needless to say, I didn’t time it well and found myself paddling downhill into the trough of a meaty, oncoming wave. I tried to
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A Heartfelt Thank You to Everyone, Who Made The 20th Anniversary, of The Village Fourth of July a Complete Success!
MONTECITO The Montecito Community Foundation Gary Smith, Music Director of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Our Lady of Mt. Carmel The Friendship Center The Boy Scouts The Girl Scouts Rooster Siple, West Coast Traditional Jazz Club The Dublin All Stars Marching Band Pierre LaFond Wine Bistro Paul Lamberton, The Spirit of ‘76 Foundation The Rotary Club of Montecito Pacific Beverage, Gerd and Pete Jordano, Celebrating 100 Years Crush Cakes Bakery The Montecito Country Mart Montecito Village Grocery MERRAG
6 – 13 August 2015
MarBorg Industries The Montecito Fire District The Montecito Water District Montecito Sanitary District The County Parks Department and Rangers Pacific Tree Service Bill Dalziel Milpas Rentals The Montecito Journal Family Life Magazine Erin Boone, Engel & Volkers Sonia Harris, Costume Design Michael Gardner, Birnam Wood Golf Club American Riviera Bank DD Ford Construction Santa Barbara Signs Home Improvements Center, Santa Barbara
To all of the moms, dads and dedicated, individual volunteers who unloaded trucks, pitched tents, and set up booths at 7:30 am, in Lower Manning Park... To those who stayed until 7:00 pm to clean up... To the talented decorators, who made the event beautiful and festive... To the community groups, who worked the booths, to welcome and serve visitors... To the individuals and community clubs and organizations, who dressed in historically accurate costumes, making history come alive for the children, and helping qualify the event for educational grants... To the seamstresses, mothers and grandmothers who hand made the historical costumes... To the community youth who sold t-shirts and the moms who took over their shifts, when necessary... To our schools and PTA for organizing the children to march in the parade... To all of the individuals and businesses, who sent volunteers; donated their time and resources; and gave their financial support ... Thank you. You are what makes our community amazing, the most beautiful and endearing place in which to live. Your enthusiasm, strength and dedication is inspiring! Alicia St. John - Chairman Christina Allison Monica Babich Margo and Jeffrey Barbakow Sheryl and Winton Berci Judith and Gunnar Bergman Keith Berry Brenda Blalock Lisa Boisset Connie Bowman RJ and MA Brillhart Jane Burkemper Nolen Chapin Dr. Gregory Charlton and Family Janet and Anthony Cheetham Peter Clark, in Memory of Dallas Clark Mrs. RM Colleaary Maj. Gen. Phillip J. Conley, Jr. Sylvia Easton Charles W. Fairbanks Clifford Ghersen
Anne and John Gilchrist Linda and Frederick Gluck Victoria and Robert Hazard Maurine and Preston Hotchkis Chana and James Jackson Palmer G. Jackson Hope S. Kelly Connie Kennelly F. G. Lufkin Leatrice Luria Susan Mezzio Peter Morris Dana Newquist Diane and Terrelll Pannkuk Jean M. Perloff Jean Perloff Dr. and Mrs. Karen and J. Carl Peus Ted Pheonix Richard and Linda Ring Regina and Ricard Roney
Michele Saltoun Jennifer and Denis Sanan Geonine Scott Robertson Short Susan St. John Lynne Tahmisian Judith and Richard Thielscher Carrie and John Lewis Towbes Michael and Anne Towbes Alice Van de Water Polly and David Van Horne Marlene and Robert Veloz Charles Ward, Idea Works Jean von Wittenburg Montecito Firefighters Association The Coeta and Donald Barker Foundation American Riveria Bank Montecito Bank and Trust Union Bank The Steve Martin Foundation
MONTECITO JOURNAL
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