E AT + D R I N K / E AT H E R E N O W
SCORPION
125 Lamar St. 210-455-0066 scorpiontexas.com Happy hour Wed-Sun Dinner Fri-Sun
Truly Inspired Scorpion showcases the emerging talent of a Peruvian native BY EDMUND TIJERINA
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ausages and potatoes rarely bring to mind images of creative dining. And, indeed, the Peruvian snack called salchipapas (salchichas + papas) is a beloved street food traditionally served with small condiment cups of mustard, mayonnaise and a paste made with the yellow chile known as ají. But in the hands of Scorpion chef Kenny Loo, this simple dish turns gorgeous and delicious, while remaining rooted in its Peruvian sensibility. Throughout the menu at Scorpion, Loo draws inspiration from his native Peru to cook food that’s satisfying and complex yet still accessible. Plus, the dishes go great with the natural wine list from wine director Taylor Zettner. A year old, this Dignowity Hill restaurant that sits just east of downtown still feels new enough for people to discover it. And it’s well worth a visit. Born in Lima, Peru, to parents from Hong Kong and Macau, Loo’s first exposure to restaurant life came from his grandfather’s place in Peru. His family moved to San Antonio when he was 9, and as an adult, Loo spent nearly a decade cooking for some of the city’s big names.
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PHOTOS BY JOMANDO CRUZ
12/10/21 11:00 AM
