GUEST-EDITED BY SEW OVER IT’S LISA COMFORT
SCISSORS ILLUSTRATION: WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/IVAN_BARANOV
Cover photograph: RACHAEL SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY Styled by: HELENA TRACEY, LISA COMFORT Styling Assistant: DOMINIQUE DAVANT Back cover images: TWINKIE CHAN, HEY LOOK, SIBYLLE ROESSLER
The latest ways to upcycle and embellish your clothes to capture the vintage style
Add the wow factor and celebrate with pops of colour and playful ideas
Boho meets gypsy meets rock ‘n’ roll, we share our favourite laidback looks
16 TEA AND A CHAT
48 HOME TOUR
83 GET THE LOOK
Isabel Knowles talks fabrics, pockets and a whole lot of pretty
Katharina Wörmann shows us round her exuberant and eclectic Bavarian apartment
Adorn yourself with a flower crown
21 REVERSIBLE COLLAR
56 TRENDS: COLOUR
Handpicked ornithological accessories
You’ve read up on her style, now make Isabel Knowles’ cute Peter Pan embellished collar
Who wants a dull day? Not us!
86 FESTIVAL EARRINGS
58 POM-POM SHOES
25 OOH: FRENCH TWIST
Turn feathers and chain into dangly fashion statements
A chic, loose up-do idea
Customise your shoes with balls of the fabulous fluffy stuff
26 TRENDS: LACE
60 TRENDS: ANIMALS
Go romantic with a panel or trim of lovely lace
We’re going wild for animal prints
Donna Bramhall shows you how to dazzle in cut-offs: wear come rain or shine
34 KNITTED NECKLACE
67 CROCHET HAIR CLIPS
92 TRENDS: PRINTS
A Alicia share their chic necklace design
Twinkie Chan shows you how to make a menagerie of animal hair clips before teatime
Our round-up of the top boho prints
Everything’s coming up roses with our top finds
70 EMBELLISHED COLLAR
40 DENIM JACKET
Three ways to customise a shirt with the creative talent behind the Hey Look blog
Gather up your ribbons and fabric offcuts and spend an afternoon stitching a beautiful bag
Twinkie shows us how to make her crochet animal ‘biscuits’
38 TRENDS: FLORALS
Georgie Jefferies pretties up a denim jacket with a personalised embroidered back panel design
44 GIRL’S DAY OUT Strike a pose at a hair and make-up salon
4 MOLLIE MAKES
Fresh ideas for vintage fabric bunting
75 OOH: ROPE HEELS Update your heels with nautical rope anklets
Give an old t-shirt a tropica l print
84 TRENDS: FEATHERS
89 BEJEWELLED SHORTS
94 BOHO BAG
100 VISIT NEW YORK Shop ‘til you drop for trims and embellishments
DESIGNER CLOSETS Meet these creative fashionistas and take a peek in their wonderfully varied wardrobes.
28 RODELLEE BAS
Pep up your party shoes
New cool for plain shirts
62 TWINKIE CHAN
Combining her love of food and all-out fun, Twinkie spreads happiness with her quirky, crochet foodthemed accessories.
Create your nostalgic style with heaps of great customising projects 114 TRENDS: PASTELS Our top picks of candy accessories
116 BUNTING SKIRT Upcycle your threads with vintage fabrics
120 PRINTED T-SHIRT
89 Adorn some old jeans
Brighten up your day and try out Elena’s fluoro printing DIY on an old t-shirt
125 OOH: RHINESTONE TRENCH The woman behind A Pair and a Spare blog shows you how to make your mac cool
126 TRENDS: BOWS
78 TIFFANY MUMFORD Fashion and portrait photographer Tiffany is smitten by the boho luxe vibe and shows us her collection of gorgeous clothes from her travels.
108 KATE GABRIELLE
Retro girls will love our favourite buys
128 SHOE BOWS Update your pumps with Hannah ReadBaldrey’s retro fabric stitches
130 MY FAVOURITE DIY Jump aboard the jewelled sweatshirt trend with Alicia DiRago’s iron-on transfers twist
With a great love for fashion and respect for its history, Californiabased Rodellee sources beautiful vintage clothes for women to take home and adore.
With her sweet cats at her side, illustrator Kate talks about fossicking for pastels, oddities and her love for retro clothing and accessories.
Knit a necklace/ collar hybrid
Guest Editor Lisa Comfort
Twinkie Chan Twinkie Chan’s parents hoped she would be a doctor, but the closest she has gotten is performing eye surgery on a crocheted radish that suffered a dog attack. She leaves a trail of yarn and mini pom-poms wherever she goes. Have a look at her wacky wardrobe on page 62. www.twinkiechan.com
Elena Rosa Brown Elena is happiest sewing or hunting down vintage treasures. Vintage fabric makes her giddy. She is Italian, but grew up in Canada and married an Englishman, so she makes decent lasagne, loves snow and owns umbrellas. Try out her ace t-shirt printing idea on page 120. www.randomlyhappyblog.com
Editor Lara Watson Art Direction Helena Tracey Art Editor Rob Eyres Production Editors Sarah Montrose, Vicky Guerrero Find project templates & get in touch at www.molliemakes.com ADVERTISING Call: 01225 442244 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Deputy Advertising Sales Manager Mike Pyatt Senior Sales Executive Amanda Harvey Sales Executives Tiffany Jackson, Samantha Whittingham, Robyn McBryde Sales Director Clare Coleman-Straw MARKETING Marketing Executive Elly Ralph CIRCULATION Head of Trade Marketing James Whitaker Trade Marketing Manager Janine Smith International Account Manager Rebecca Richer PRODUCTION Production Manager Mark Constance Production Controller Stephanie Smith
Isabel Knowles Isabel spent her childhood raiding the dressingup box and her teens customising her wardrobe. Always intrigued by fashion and costume she makes dresses in the hills of Dartmoor with pockets, to keep your sweets, penknife and lint. We chat pretty moodboards over tea on page 16. www.isabelknowles.com
Georgie Jefferies With sketchbook in hand, Georgie is always on the look-out for subjects, whether it’s from her travels or down the road. She loves the randomness and stories behind collage and passing on her sewing know-how to others. Embroider a panel for a denim jacket, on page 40. www.georgiemadeyoulook.folksy.com
LICENSING Licensing and Syndication Director Regina Erak email@example.com Tel +44 (0)1225 732359 MANAGEMENT Managing Director Jo Morrell Head of Women’s Lifestyle Katherine Raderecht Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor Group Art Director Matthew Hunkin Editorial Director Jim Douglas SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions Manager Elizabeth Daly Call 0844 848 2852 or subscribe online at www.myfavouritemagazines.co.uk Future Publishing Ltd, 30 Monmouth Street, Bath, BA1 2BW
Charlotte Smith Charlotte has dedicated her life to the pursuit of collecting embellishments. Able to sniff out a bead shop anywhere in the world, she shares her passion for jewellery making and fabrics on her blog Lotts and Lots. Make her chain and feather earrings on page 86. http://lottsandlots.blogspot.com
Tiffany Mumford Tiffany is a London-based fashion and portrait photographer who likes to escape to the beach in Morocco. She loves patterns and vintage Indian dresses, colour, beading and fringing, and is a real travelling boho girl at heart. Take a peak inside Tiffany’s closet on page 78. www.tiffanymumford.com
Other contributors Anna Alicia, Sophie Appleby, Hannah Read-Baldrey, Rodellee Bas, Christine Bauer, Matt Blake, Justina Blakeney, Valerie Bracegirdle, Donna Bramhall, Dominique Davant, Alicia DiRago, Hey Look, Kate Gabrielle, Emma Georgiou, Beci McDonald, Sarah Monks, Adriana Owens, Felix Rowberry, Helen Self, Rachael Smith, Sibylle Roessler, Alex Thomas, Geneva Vanderzeil, Esme Worrell
6 MOLLIE MAKES
© Future Publishing Limited 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Future Publishing Limited (company number 2008885) is registered in England and Wales. The registered ofﬁce of Future Publishing Limited is at Beauford Court, 30 Monmouth Street, Bath BA1 2BW. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Future cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Future a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk and, although every care is taken, neither Future nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage. We are committed to only using magazine paper which is derived from well managed, certiﬁed forestry and chlorine-free manufacture. Future Publishing and its paper suppliers have been independently certiﬁed in accordance with the rules of the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council).
BE INSPIRED Welcome to Mollie Makes DIY Fashion. I’m thrilled and honoured to be guest editor of this special magazine. It has been a joy to take time out from running my sewing cafe Sew Over It to work on such an exciting project. I’ve always been into dressmaking and customising, but I have been so inspired by those who have contributed to the magazine, that I want to revamp my entire wardrobe! I hope that you too will ﬁnd the same. It’s far more interesting to have a wardrobe that is completely unique to you. In these pages you’ll ﬁnd the techniques and inspiration to do just that.
PHOTOGRAPH: TIFFANY MUMFORD
Lisa Comfort Guest Editor
THE LATEST IN CRAF TY GOODNESS – HANDPICKED JUST FOR YOU Founded by Geneva Vanderzeil in 2009, fashion blog A Pair and a Spare features an awesome catwalk of ingenious – and totally doable – DIY revamps. Geneva has collected 40 of her most gorgeous projects into a book, DIY Fashionista – and you can see a few of her ideas throughout this special issue. www. apairandasparediy.com
Bristolbased Esme Worrell is the creator of Esmerelda’s, a divine beauty parlour on wheels. We want to visit! Find out more at www. esmereldas vanity.co.uk
Raid your wardrobe, empty your stash and dive into a weekend of customising heaven. Studs & Pearls by Kirsten Nunez is out in May and packed full of smart ideas for clothes and accessories, from stamped leggings and faux-studded jackets to painted floral clutches and leather charm earrings. The only tricky bit is deciding which to start first... www.laurenceking.com
PHOTOGRAPH: FELIX ROWBERRY
THIS MONTH’S WISHLIST
Put a spring in your step with the new collaboration between print queen Orla Kiely and high street staple Clarks. Expect colour, pretty florals and plenty of patent. www.clarks.com
Words: JESSICA BATEMAN
Statement jewellery is a wardrobe essential for us, and we can’t stop ogling Lucie Ellen’s bold pieces. http://lucieellen.bigcartel.com
10 MOLLIE MAKES
PHOTOGRAPH: CELINE KIM
Once you’ve mastered some sewing basics, put your skills to use with one of Victory Patterns’ gorgeous offerings. Designed to guide you on your sewing journey, the pieces are simple, chic and wearable. www. victorypatterns.com
Designing patterns is just one skill to try your hand at.
Taking its name from everyone’s favourite Wonderland heroine, Alice’s Pig is a new independent label with an urban take on vintage-inspired pieces. It’s the brainchild of sibling duo Amanda and Nicolai, who value creating highquality garments and celebrating “colliding styles and cultures.” We love their strong silhouettes, bold pattern and fabulous fabrics. www.alicespig.com
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOF MATTES WWW.HERMATTES.DE
Fashion Antidote A fashion school and studio nestled off East London’s vibrant Brick Lane, Fashion Antidote gives you the chance to learn from in-the-know sewists and designers, many of whom run their own labels. Whether you’re just starting to master your sewing machine or are yearning to become an expert pattern cutter, you’ll find a class to suit. www.fashionantidote.com
WEBSITE TO WATCH Cotton and Steel Correct at time of going to press! Ninety-one days until this new label launch from Ruby Star founder Melody Miller. Focused on ‘creativity, resourcefulness and innovation,’ she’s handpicked a star line-up of designers, including Green Bee Design’s Alexia Marcelle Abegg and Kimberley Knight. Can’t. Wait. www.cottonandsteel.com
Get hands-on support and tips for all your sewing dilemmas.
ONE TO WATCH Like a Boss
More than a fashion brand, So Worth Loving is also an online community promoting healthy selfimage and positive thinking. Inspiring stuff. www.soworthloving.com
Sophia Amoruso isn’t your typical CEO. This autobiography charts the Nasty Gal founder’s rise from teen shoplifter to multi-million dollar company head, and is packed with straighttalking business advice. www.nastygal.com/ girlboss
Ginger and her pooch Freckles bring us sewing kits with a fabulously quirky twist. www.crafternoonkits.com
Oh, pom-poms. You’re so cheap, easy and go with anything – and we love you for it. This brightly coloured trim has a touch of Mexicana about it – just the thing for channelling your inner Frida Kahlo. www.eternalmaker.com
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Thank you, so do you! Soak up a compliment while applying your warpaint with an alphabet bag, or treat a friend to a daily perk-me-up by giving one as a gift. www.alphabetbags.com
By Hand London For classic silhouettes with a modern twist, look no further than Charlotte and Elisalex’s super-stylish patterns Creating retro-inspired looks is a big draw for many home sewists, but vintage patterns can be scarily complicated to decipher. Enter By Hand London, a two-woman independent sewing pattern label run out of a Hackney studio. Charlotte Hintzen and Elisalex De Castro Peake draw on classic looks of the past and are geared towards both
beginner and intermediate stitchers. Newbies can have a go at the gorgeous high-waisted ‘Charlotte’ pencil skirt, whilst those better acquainted with the sewing machine won’t be able to resist the ‘Elisalex’ dress, complete with scoop back, tulip skirt and three sleeve variations. Once you’ve picked your pattern, log onto the duo’s blog for an abundance of reassuringly-nerdy sewing tips, such as how to take your measurements properly, how to hem a curve, and all other types of essential know-how. Even better, the patterns are simple enough to make a wonderful canvas from which to customise to your heart’s content, crafting your own truly personal vintage-inspired statement pieces. www.byhandlondon.com
skirt is high waisted with peplum and hem ruffle variations, designed with the hourglass figure in mind. 02
If you’re new
to sewing, the Anna dress kit is just the ticket, choose from maxi, midi or thighsplit options.
The brains behind By Hand London celebrate their first year of business.
Vintage Roll on yesteryear and be thrifty to boot! Get your beauty, craft and shopping fix with a nod to the golden, olden days.
Try your hand at French knitting
Isabel Knowles invites us for tea and a chat
Pretty in lace – our pick of the latest trends
Rose-tinted specs, of course!
Inspiration … from the 20s to 80s 44
Vintage biz, Le Keux Parties
Take a peek inside Rodellee Bas’s romantic wardrobe
Pin-it, shape-it hairdo idea
tea and a chat with…
ISABEL KNOWLES Isabel makes beautiful garments from her studio in Devon. We ﬁnd out what motivates her to sew into the small hours… Photographs BECI MCDONALD
Westcountry dressmaker Isabel creates limited edition clothing for her eponymous label, Isabel Knowles. Taking inspiration from vintage designs, patterns and her Dartmoor surroundings, each dress is handmade from organic cotton. Only a Sunny Smile is a collection inspired by the garden parties of the The Great Gatsby with each dress named after a lady from the Jeeves and Wooster stories. A whimsical gathering, Quite Contrary is themed on English gardens, wild ﬂowers and nursery rhymes. Isabel also whizzes up classic
16 MOLLIE MAKES mama
styles where the customer gets to choose the details of the design. Isabel’s ethos is to produce long lasting, ethical and interesting clothing, with an emphasis on bringing Britishmade and sustainable fabrics into everyday fashion. She continues her adventure with organic cottons, aiming to print and dye more of her own fabric using natural dyes. Isabel also screenprints t-shirts, makes recycled leather accessories, papier mache masks and bespoke costumes; plus she’s a fan of patterns, sheds, old furniture and picture books.
Describe your style in a few words. I’ve always wanted to have a deﬁnite style that shaped my wardrobe, but it’s never happened that way. I suppose I’d have to describe my style as a bit of a scruffy mix! I’m always drawn to colourful and classic 50s shape dresses which is reﬂected in my work, but I’m also mad on throwing loads of pieces together and layering up. Occasionally I try the simple, elegant look that I love on others, but somehow just doesn’t feel right on me. As a teenager I was obsessed with Harajuku and Japanese street style and Vivienne Westwood was my idol, so I suppose those inﬂuences still play in the back of my mind. Although living in the cold and wet Devon countryside means that most of the time I’m wearing a woolly jumper and some leggings. Which books and magazines are currently on your bedside table? I’m a sucker for a pretty magazine so at the moment I’ve been browsing the pages of Betty and the latest edition of Frankie. As I’m currently completing my Spring Summer 2014 collection I’ve also been reading a lot of old art and fashion books. I’ve been getting my nose stuck into some more technical books on fashion illustration too and volume one of Technical Drawing for Fashion Design as I really need to brush up my drawing skills.
VINTAGE tea & a chat
‘As a teenager I was obsessed with Japanese street style and Harajuku.’
Name your top three creative blogs. The main blogs I love to read are very aesthetically pleasing ones. I take a lot of inspiration from Miss Moss (www.missmoss. co.za) which features beautiful clothing and handmade brands along with archive images. When it comes to sewing blogs I adore Coletterie, the blog that accompanies Colette patterns (www.coletterie.com). It’s interesting to see behind the scenes of a business that is related to dressmaking. The same goes for another of my favourite blogs, Tilly and the Buttons (www. tillyandthebuttons.com) it’s so inspiring
to see the process of how people make clothing. I love the sense of community you get with blogs and to see how other people tackle a problem you might have also had. Describe a typical working day. There really isn’t a typical day. It can vary depending on my orders or the time of year. As I work from home I try to be in my studio by 10:30am. This might seem late but I simply am not good in the mornings. Some days I spend doing admin like sending emails, blogging, research, ordering fabric, or the dreaded accounts.
A good project
for an old piece of furniture, why not
cushion takes pride of place. Yum! 03
add chicken wire so
mantelpiece in the
you can hang your
studio is decorated
favourite clothes or
with trinkets and
pictures of Isabel’s
VINTAGE tea & a chat
I’m not keen on spending a whole day on these jobs or my mind feels thoroughly fried. Other days I will sew all day long. Often I have a break from my studio between about 5 and 9pm and then head back to sewing until the wee hours of the morning. My brain seems to switch on at about 10pm and I never like to stop if I’m in the swing of things. Most days I go for a walk with the dog or run some errands, as even though working from home is great it feels so good to clear your head, get some fresh air and not feel under house arrest. 01
Isabel keeps her
bedroom warm with Welsh blankets. 02
Bolts of organic
cotton are kept stacked on shelves in the studio.
is still searching for the perfect sewing machine, switching between modern and old models. 03
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How does your creative process work? My ﬁrst go-to with my creative process is my notebook (I’m obsessive with my notebooks and they all have to match, my favourite is a little brown number from Paperchase). I carry it everywhere and I like to write lists when I think of ideas. I also have a sketchbook that is dedicated to a speciﬁc collection. It took me a while to get into Pinterest but now I have the app on my phone I’m pretty darn in love with it. I ﬁnd it so useful for collecting images that I can then refer to when making sketches or looking back over ideas. It’s also great when working on a collaboration because both of you can add to a board. Even though I spend a lot of time online,
VINTAGE tea & a chat
‘I often find fabrics in charity shops crying out to be made into a dress.’
I am trying to get stuck into some good ol’fashioned books. I normally print out a bunch of images and combine them with scraps of fabric, pictures I’ve ripped out of magazines and other pieces I’ve collected. I then look at them all together to get the feel of what I’m doing. I then make sketches and collages as well as pinning things up on the walls. Another part of the creative process is ﬁnding fabrics. As I try to only use ethically-sourced fabrics sometimes a design can come from the fabric itself. I
often ﬁnd wonderful vintage fabrics in local charity shops which just cry out to be made into a dress. There are some great shops on the internet for buying organic cotton too. I recently bought some gorgeous organic linen from Ray Stitch (www.raystitch.co.uk). When it comes to exploring with the shape or ﬁt of a garment most of that happens when I start to cut and sew. Depending on the fabrics you are using or the silhouette you want to achieve, a design can change drastically when you actually start to make it into a piece of clothing.
Stacks of Vogue
dressing table she
hold up Isabel’s
inherited from her
where she packs
orders and sketches
choose from a
at the window.
selection of pretty
fabrics and dress
trinkets on the
VINTAGE tea & a chat
‘‘I love wrapping up
my orders!” says Isabel. 02
and a walk with the dog. 03
Isabel’s lovely Paper
Hats galore, for garden Moon collection was
parties, cocktails, boating
inspired by the night sky.
What digital and social media channels are exciting you right now? I love Instagram and am totally addicted. It’s so interesting sneaking a peek at other people’s creative processes. Come and ﬁnd me at @isabelknowles! Where do you search for inspiration? If I go out searching for inspiration I’m normally just disappointed (this is going to sound massively clichéd) but I always seem to be inspired by something when I least expect it. On a recent visit to London I visited the Horniman Museum and I came out so excited and full of ideas. The simple typography and the chalky pastel colours in there make you feel as though you’re in a Wes Anderson ﬁlm, combined with the interesting shapes and names of the natural history too. It’s great to have a starting point like that and then build on it.
Isabel Knowles Isabel Knowles is a dressmaker making fashionable, long-lasting and bespoke clothing from ethically-sourced fabrics. Each garment is handmade to measure, one at a time from her home studio in Devon then shipped worldwide to be enjoyed for years to come. She also runs a blog where she shares her design process and life in her studio. www.isabelknowles.com
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What projects are you working on? I’m working on my summer collection and I’m so ruddy excited about it! It’s a collaboration with artist and print maker Jo Waterhouse (www.jowaterhouse.com) and is inspired mainly by folk art and costume and the wonderful Frida Kahlo. What’s the best piece of creative advice you have ever been given? A great piece of advice I read about last year in the Guardian weekend supplement was the Helsinki Bus Station Theory – Google it! It’s about persistence and not giving up, something we all feel like at one point or another. “Stay on the bus!”
Chic double act Style-up your fave tops with this simple collar by Isabel Knowles – it’s reversible so you earn thrifty points too!
HOW TO MAKE A… A REVERSIBLE COLLAR MATERIALS QTwo pieces of contrasting fabric, 45.5 x 30.5cm (18” x 12”) QTwo lengths of ribbon, 40.5cm (16”) QScissors QNeedle and thread QSewing machine (optional) QPins QMismatched buttons (or sequins/beads)
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The fastest way to update a well-loved top is with a fabulous collar. And this handmade reversible style means that you get double the choice. Pick two contrasting fabrics and get the best of both worlds –simply flip your collar when you feel like a change. With this cute but classy Peter Pan style you’ll feel like a total Darling. 01 Find the template on our blog, or for a DIY pattern, draw around a collar of a favourite blouse and copy onto brown paper. Fold your two pieces of fabric in half, place together and pin on the template. If you’re using a thinner fabric, and
want to create a stiff collar then just cut out a piece using the same template and iron onto one of the collar pieces. 02 Cut out the collar shape and place your two collar pieces right sides together, then pin in place. 03 Using a straight stitch, sew almost all around the collar. Make sure to leave a small gap in the stitching at the neck of the collar pieces (this is where your ribbon will go). Also leave a gap of 5 or 7.5cm (2 or 3”) in the middle back of your collar so that you can turn it all right side out later. 04 Push your ribbon through the gap you’ve left until most of it is on
the inside the collar. Pin and sew the ribbon in place. 05 Repeat on the other side. 06 Trim excess fabric and cut notches around all edges. 07 Turn the whole thing right side out. If youâ€™re finding it tricky to get into those corners, use a blunt pencil or a knitting needle to get things looking neat. 08 Iron the collar once itâ€™s the right way round, folding in the fabric around the opening. 09 Hand stitch the gap closed. 10 Snip the ribbon to your desired length. Hereâ€™s a little tip: lightly singe the edges of the ribbon with a match to stop it from fraying.
HOW TO MAKE… A COLLAR OPTIONAL EXTRAS 11 If you want to keep things simple, then congratulations! You’re finished. However, here are a few extra steps if you want to jazz up your collar a bit. 12 Starting at the edge of the collar, slowly start positioning and sewing buttons into place. The placement of the buttons can be as dense as you like, or you can just add a few for detail. Choose similar shades for a cool, stylish look, or go all out for a riot of colour! 13 Once you have reached your desired look then you’re good to go. If you don’t fancy using buttons you could always use sequins or little beads as a fab alternative.
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Et voilà! Treat a dress to this marvellous button and ribbon collar.
Isabel Knowles “I believe clothing should be used to express yourself, by feeling comfortable, happy, sophisticated and silly and I try to create clothing to reflect those ideals,” says Devon-based Isabel about her versatile, classic garments. Have a looksee… www.isabelknowles.com
I COULD DO THAT…
Easy French twist
We can’t wait to give this updo a twirl, all prom queen and oh-so-demure. As with all effortless looks, it belies some serious pinning work beneath! Nimble-fingered Emily shows us how it’s done in three easy steps on her beautiful blog. Check out her vintage pin-up tutorials too, they’re awesome! www.freckled-fox.com
Dreamy in lace Feeling a tad romantic and looking for a dainty je ne sais quoi? Bring out the lace
Happy days are just around the corner in this peachy sweet chiffon and lace pleated dress from LittleByLittle. https://marketplace.asos.com
Looking for a pretty button? Embellish a garment with this exquisite cutwork shell piece. www.bedecked.co.uk
Nostalgia meets high technology in this awesome lace-printed
Layer this silk crêpe de chine number under a knitted sweater
iPhone leather case. www.tovicorrie.etsy.com
or dress to add a pretty playfulness. www.silklis.com
Toughen up your feminine lace with some hardy leather… we’re
Everyone needs to slip into a sensual wisp of elegance once in
suckers for this textural combo. www.ecreation.etsy.com
a while. Perfect for evenings in with the cat. www.nancymac.co.uk
VINTAGE closet tour
Glimpses into Rodellee’s wardrobe. “I tend to pick up cream coloured blouses with feminine details like rufﬂes, lace and pleats,” she says. Right: One of Rodellee’s fave ﬁnds, this dress weighs about 20lbs because of the beading.
Rodellee Bas and her quest for vintage clothing destined to be loved again Photographs: RODELLEE BAS
With her deep love for fashion and history, California-based Rodellee Bas founded Adored Vintage, an online clothing boutique for modern women who love fanciful and pretty things. Her shop is an extension of everything she loves, and beautiful vintage clothing that sparks historical interest. She believes each garment bears a tale from its past and that the women who choose a vintage garment love the idea of adding their own chapter.
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VINTAGE closet tour
VINTAGE closet tour
How did you build your wardrobe style? I’ve always loved romantic styles of dressing and tend to gravitate towards soft, muted colours and clothing with delicate feminine details. My style inspiration ranges from painted portraits of women from the 1800s to vintage photographs of women in the 1920s, 30s and 40s. When collecting my wardrobe I always just bought what I liked and pieces that could easily work with what I already owned. How have all the elements come together? I had quite a lot of one-of-a-kind vintage dresses in my personal wardrobe at one point. While they were beautiful, it just wasn’t very sensible for me. I decided I would focus on staple pieces that I could wear often and pair with other pieces in my closet. I also stopped purchasing trend items a couple of years ago and instead source most of my clothes from secondhand
30 MOLLIE MAKES
shops, estate sales and ﬂea markets. This allows me to purchase items I truly love instead of items I just love for that moment.
Details of antique
and vintage cotton, silk and lace blouses. A glimpse of a cream
Where did you ﬁnd certain favourite items? At one estate sale I had a stroke of luck as the lady was my size and seemed to have had an afﬁnity for white and cream blouses! I’ve kept nearly all those for myself. Another favourite item is an antique crochet lace jacket with an asymmetrical hem. It instantly makes me feel pretty! I purchased this from an antique and vintage clothing show in Santa Monica called the Vintage Expo. Most of my favourite vintage items in my wardrobe were supposed to be for my shop, but I just couldn’t part with them. Why certain colour choices? My wardrobe mostly consists of cream, pale peach, pale pink and shades of tan. I ﬁnd these
ﬁlet lace jacket dating to the early 1900s. 02
resist delicately beaded 1920s and 1930s Art Deco purses, most are made in Czechoslovakia. Perfect little accoutrements for dressing up an outﬁt.
These shelves house Rodelleeâ€™s special antique and vintage bags and beloved hats. Most of the bags are tapestry or needlepoint bags from the 20s to 50s.
VINTAGE closet tour
colours so pleasing, very romantic and timeless. I also own a number of navy blue, black and grey pieces but these are almost always paired with cream, white or tan. Having a wardrobe in all the same colour scheme makes getting dressed and travelling so much easier! What are your top tips for styling? Wear what you love. Wear what ﬂatters your ﬁgure best. Stop purchasing the latest trends, chances are you’ll dislike it in a while. If you adore something and it’s not the right ﬁt, get it tailored. Wear colours that ﬂatter your skin tone.
Do you have customised items? I’ve had several vintage dresses taken up or the necklines altered. Another alteration is to add rows of pleats, instead of hemming a dress. In the fashion district of Los Angeles there are a couple of trims stores that have hundreds of lace and ﬂoral appliqués and little silk ﬂowers. I sew these on to antique chemise tops and corset covers and add pastel clusters of ﬂowers to 1920s step-ins. Sometimes I’ll add a bit of beading to a cardigan to make it more festive, or replace buttons on a 1930s dress with more exciting vintage buttons from ﬂea markets.
from the 1940s have a way of looking completely modern,” says Rodellee. Some of her favourites are these silk ﬂoral heels, alligator leather platforms and classic black suede peep-toes. 02
Classic shapes and
patterns will never go out of style, especially in colours that are tried and true.
Adored Vintage Beautiful vintage dresses and tops hang on the rails in Rodellee Bas’ showroom in Long Beach, California, yearning to be worn and adored again. From an olive blue 50s shirt dress, 20s pale green tiered lace dress to an elegant 40s black taffeta gown, Rodellee hand selects each vintage garment for its quality, beauty and relevance to modern day fashion. www.adoredvintage.com
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I COULD DO THATâ€Ś
Gold sequin collar
We love Genevaâ€™s spangly transformation of a plain dress using a fistful of shiny paillettes (large gold sequins to you and me). Sewing them gives greater movement than glue, so just catch up on your fave TV series as you stitch. www.apairandasparediy.com
oOh la La!
ILLUSTRATION: © WWW.ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/MISHKOM
Jewellery brand, A Alicia get it spot on with this chic, knitted necklace design
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HOW TO MAKE… A KNITTED NECKLACE MATERIALS QDebbie Bliss Eco Baby, 100% organic cotton, 125m/137yd per 50g. 1 x 50g Nile Green or Mint if unavailable (or any DK cotton yarn) Q2 x 3.25mm (UK 10/ US 3) doublepointed needles (DPNs) QCotton thread to match your yarn QButton, approx 1-1.5cm wide QFine sewing needle TENSION Tension is not crucial to this pattern
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The season for big, chunky scarves might be over (cue shrieks of happiness) but that doesn’t mean giving up your knitted accessory making for another year. Add some joie de vivre to your outfit with this piece. It’s kind of a collar, kind of a necklace – style it either way. French knit First you’ll need to French-knit one long cord that will be shaped and stitched into your finished necklace. Start by casting on 4 stitches and knitting a row. Now, rather than turning your needle around as you would in standard knitting, slide your knitting to the other end of your DPN (your working yarn should
always be at the left end of your knitting as you start each row). Continue knitting rows in this way, sliding your knitting along your needle after each row, and giving your working yarn a little downward tug behind the work to help it form the cord. Take a look at this tutorial for help: http://bit.ly/YKNUKh After the first few rows you’ll see your cord starting to form. Keep knitting until your cord is 1m long, then cast off. In the loop Now you’re ready to form your cord into the shape of the necklace. Starting at one end, fold the cord into a flat loop pattern, pinning in place as you go. The first loop
should be around 2.5cm (1") from top to bottom, the next 3.5cm (1½"), the next 3cm (1¼") and the last 2.5cm (1"). All your loops should line up along the top edge. Once those are all pinned in place, repeat this looping and pinning at the other end of your cord. Next, with your two rows of loops in front of you, pin your cord back along the top edge of the righthand row of loops, and pin in place so it covers the top of each loop. On the left hand row of loops, take the cord 1cm out at a right angle to your loops before folding it back along the top of the loops and pinning as you did on the right (this creates a little platform on which to sew your button). Once everything is pinned in place,
Use that button you’ve been saving, to finish.
turn your knitting over and begin stitching everything in place on the back with your cotton thread. Start at the tip of the cord, and tuck in the loose wool, sewing this in place, then (with small oversewing stitches) sew half way down the first loop. Leave the bottom of each loop open, sew back up between the first and second loops, then half way down the second loop – continue this along your loops. When you get to the end of your loops, stitch them to the cord running along the top edge. Now turn your knitting over and, on the front of your necklace, stitch down the bottom edge of the cord running along the top of your loops. Repeat all this for the other row of loops.
Finishing Your necklace now just needs the finishing touch with its button and loop fastening. Sew your button securely to the front of its little platform on the left-hand side of your necklace. To add a loop to the other end, take a small piece of yarn and tie
it into a loop big enough to fit over your button. Using one of your knitting needles, poke the knot and loose ends of your loop into the front of your knitting, about 5mm (¼") from the end, and stitch neatly in place. Et voila! Your knitted necklace is ready to wear. Go-to status assured.
Anna Johnson Anna is the designer-maker behind ecoethical jewellery and homeware label, A Alicia. She’s based in East London with her artist husband and a multitude of books and houseplants. Anna is the author of an interiors how-to book called Make It Your Own, and loves experimenting with her new favourite medium: ceramics. aalicia.bigcartel.com
Laid-back blossoms May your life bloom and your vintage style flourish with these sweet floral delights
Lay heart-ďŹ lled eyes on these darling handmade wrap dresses by Gabrielle Parker. www.notonthehighstreet.com/ gabrielleparkerclothingandaccessories
Watch the pennies... a sophisticated twist on a 60s style and just the right size for storing your copper. www.bettyandwalter.com
These buttons say it all: you are one sweet lassie. Style-up a plain
We’ll grab a bunch of these pretty corsage style brooches to give
cardi and feel oh-so-pretty. www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk
to our best pals. www.notonthehighstreet.com/handmadeatposhyarns
We’re so smitten by these Liberty poppy and daisy print sunglasses that we wear them in the rain. www.liberty.co.uk
Vintage blooms on a dark-as-night background bound with
The next best thing to walking through pretty ﬂowers? Wearing
a rustic leather trim... a must-have clutch. www.coralsandnuts.etsy.com
them on your lower limbs, of course. www.dgstyle.etsy.com
TRUE BLUE BABY I LOVE YOU Give your once-loved denim jacket an 80s revamp with Georgie Jefferiesâ€™ easy update
HOW TO MAKE… AN EMBROIDERED PANEL MATERIALS QDenim jacket QSewing machine (with darning foot) QThread QDissolvable fabric QGel pen QEmbroidery scissors QFabric scissors QMain fabric QSecondary fabric – used for smaller parts of the project QEmbroidery hoop QIron-on interfacing QIron
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Be forever in blue jeans and pretty-up your fave old jacket with this elegant twist. Take a photograph, drawing or use a template to embroider a design – anything from a flower to an inspiring building or hipster favourite, the wolf and moon. This is a great project to practise your machine embroidery. If you’re a beginner, get yourself a darning foot for your machine and start stitching – it’s highly addictive! Prep your emblem 01 Prepare all the fabric you are going to use by pre-washing or ironing. Then lay the dissolvable fabric onto your item of clothing and roughly mark out the area where your design will be. Gel pens are good; try to use one in a similar colour to your fabric to lessen the likelihood of any marks that may be left afterwards. 02 Take your chosen drawing or template and place the transparent dissolvable fabric on
top. Carefully trace the outline of the drawing with the gel pen. Move the dissolvable fabric around in different positions to create a repeat pattern roughly within the outline of the area you have marked. Sometimes it’s nice if a bit of the design goes over the edge. 03 Pin the dissolvable fabric in random places onto your main fabric. We’ve used a silk chiffon as we like the transparent quality but you can use anything. If you are a beginner, often something like cotton is a little easier to handle. 04 Place your main fabric in the embroidery hoop, making sure it is pulled tight. You can cover wooden embroidery hoops by wrapping strips of bias-cut fabric around the edge to protect finer fabrics and allow more grip. 05 Thread up the machine with your chosen colour, and place the embroidery hoop with your fabric under the machine embroidery foot (sometimes you may have to unscrew the foot in order to easily
place the hoop underneath). 06 Make sure the presser foot is lowered, and position the needle down in the fabric, lining up with your marked-out design. 07 Keeping the hoop as flat as possible and the stitching at a steady pace, move the hoop around so the needle sews along your drawn lines. Depending on how big your hoop or design is, you will probably need to take the fabric out at some point and reposition the hoop on the fabric to complete the design. 08 Sometimes it’s nice to set the needle to a small zigzag stitch, creating a satin stitch to give the thread a bit more depth and better quality of line. You can also use this technique to fill in certain areas. 09 Once finished, remove the hoop and carefully cut away the bulk of the remaining dissolvable fabric, as sometimes it can leave a bit of a sticky residue when washed away. 10 Follow the instructions for the dissolvable fabric (it’s usually hot-
or cold-water soluble). Rinse or soak the fabric for a few minutes until the dissolvable fabric has completely washed away and leave to dry. If you’re feeling impatient, give it a blast with a hairdryer! Once dry, iron out any creases. 11 Decide which areas you would like to fill in with your second transparent coloured fabric. Place your main fabric tightly back in the embroidery hoop, and cut out squares of your secondary fabric. Position them in various places on top, pinning it at certain points. 12 You should be able to see where the existing stitch line already is, thanks to your secondary fabric being transparent. Sew around the edges twice to make sure it’s secure. Cut away the excess fabric. 13 Place your finished embroidered fabric onto your item of clothing. Cut around the edges, about 2cm (¾”) larger than the area that’s going to be covered. Pin in place. You can either choose to fold under the edges or cut down slightly
smaller and leave a rough edge. Slip stitch by hand or machine stitch to attach it. Optional twist 14 You can also use the same technique to appliqué on individual parts of the design. Use the same steps to create more of the design on a separate bit of fabric. 15 Once finished, lay the right side of the fabric down on the ironing board and place a piece of iron-on interfacing with the glue-side down onto the back of the fabric. Iron on a medium-high setting for a minute
or so until it’s firmly attached. 16 Cut out the separate pieces of the design, and peel off the paper part of the iron-on interfacing. Turn over so the fabric is right side up (glue side down). Place where you want on your item of clothing, and iron over the top again for a minute or so until it’s firmly attached. You can get different strengths of Bondaweb, but bear in mind it won’t last forever so if it is an item that will be washed often, it might be worth stitching around the edge to make sure it is completely secure. Wear with pride!
Georgie Jefferies Georgie Jefferies is a textile designer based in London, specialising in embroidery and print. Taking inspiration from trips around the corner and around the world, she combines her love of illustration with textiles and applies them to both interior products and fashion. Check out her lampshades! www.georgiemadeyoulook.folksy.com
VINTAGE PARTY Girls just wanna have fun. Be a pin-up for a day on your own photo shoot
Brush up on your burlesque at a vintage hair and make-up salon. Makes a treat for gal pals, plus itâ€™s run by Women of the Year Awards 2013 Entrepreneur winner, Lynsey Le Keux. www. lekeuxevents.co.uk
Quirky A pom-pom here, an animal print thereâ€Ś Be inspired by the boldest, most colourful fashionistas we know.
Closet tour with Twinkie Chan
Yarn up your fave party shoes
Bloggers Hey Look share collar DIYs
Stand out from the crowd
Crochet Twinkie’s fun safari hairclips
Katharina Wörmann’s bold home
QUIRKY home tour
“All colours go together,” in Katharina Wörmann’s quirky, Bavarian apartment Words: HELEN SELF Photography: CHRISTINE BAUER, CHRISTINEBAUER.COM
Think of Bavaria in south-east Germany and you probably picture a rather stereotyped set of images: dirndl skirts, medieval timbered towns, and Alpine peaks and meadows. But actually, that’s all ﬁne with Bavarian interior designer Katharina Wörmann, because those are things she loves, and from which she draws endless inspiration for her stunning homestyle. “Colour is my most important styling tool,” says Katharina, “and in my opinion there
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QUIRKY home tour
Left: Katharina’s kitchen is a riot of colour. She designed the rug for a restaurant that she styled – and loved it so much that she made one for herself. This page: In her bedroom Katharina displays special treasures, travel souvenirs, ﬁnds and gifts from friends.
QUIRKY home tour
aren’t any colours that don’t go together. Think of an Alpine meadow – the ﬂower colours are all mixed up together, and every colour looks wonderful against the next. That’s my philosophy. I’m so lucky to live somewhere with such an abundance of natural inspiration.” Katharina lives and works in the charming medieval town of Landsberg am Lech, 65km west of Munich. Three years ago she moved to an apartment in a tall, narrow old house right in the heart of the pedestrianised town centre. She revels in the fact that everything’s on her doorstep, from the weekly market that takes place right outside the house and a multitude of little cafés, to the river Lech, which ﬂows through the town just a minute’s walk away. The apartment is a riot of colour, and everywhere you look there are things that catch your eye – from items that talented needlewoman and painter, Katharina has made
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herself to quirky pieces of furniture, travel souvenirs and original décor ideas. “I just don’t like buying ready-made things from ordinary interiors and homeware shops – mass market isn’t for me,” says Katharina. “I like to make things myself because I have deﬁnite ideas about what a room or a piece of furniture should look like. I love taking old furniture and giving it a new lease of life with new upholstery or paint, and I like to throw the odd designer item into the mix.” Katharina’s style has developed over the years since her apprenticeships in interior design and decorating. Having loved ‘happy colours’ since childhood, she’s become passionate about travelling in countries where a vivid sense of colour is central to the culture. “Mexico is one of my absolute favourite places to travel,” says Katharina. “Like me, they don’t consider that there are any colours you can’t put together,
gypsy-caravan style and dressed her window alcoves to get that look, using Designers Guild wallpaper and a green stain for the woodwork. The ﬁnishing touch is remodelled lace curtains inherited from her grandma. 02
The chandelier was
designed and made by Katharina using snippets of her favourite fabrics.
This page: “My birth sign is a ﬁre element,” says Katharina, “so I went for a red kitchen.” Her love of traditional Bavarian style can be spotted everywhere, even on her bin.
QUIRKY home tour
and they’re simply not afraid of colour.” India and other Asian countries are also big sources of inspiration, and Katharina loves to bring back quirky ﬁnds for her home, many of which are displayed together in an eclectic mix on an antique sideboard in her large bedroom, which is ﬁlled with natural light. “The bedroom is my favourite room in my apartment,” smiles Katharina. “I love it so much that I have breakfast in bed every day! The old sideboard is my all-time favourite piece of furniture and I know it’ll come with me wherever I go. In my old studio-shop it was my sales desk. One day in the future I’d like to live somewhere with a huge kitchen, and I’ll use it as a work surface.” Elsewhere in the bedroom Katharina’s beloved fur-lined throw drapes over the bed, and – hanging on the wall – one of her fashion pieces, which is a modern take on traditional
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Bavarian costume. Katharina has developed a clothing range alongside her interiors work. For both, she aims for the same sense of colour and tradition along with quality fabrics and workmanship. When it comes to fabrics, Katharina is a fan of British brand Designers Guild (www.designersguild.com). “But I pick fabric up anywhere and everywhere,” she says, “and I do even buy it from ﬂea markets.” With such passion for colour, is it hard to pin down a favourite? “Actually, my favourite colours change every couple of years,” she says. “At the moment I love black and white combined with any bright colour. A year ago I rarely used black, but now you’ll ﬁnd it on everything I create. The only colours I never work with are beige, large expanses of white and muted brown tones – just too boring and lacking in energy.” And if you love Katharina’s style but are a tad nervous about using colour
A pretty chair on
wheels with a padded backrest serves as Katharina’s bedside table. “I designed it for an art exhibition,” she says, “then couldn’t let it go.” 02
clothing range – traditional dress we’d actually wear.
This page: The stunning cupboard in the bedroom was originally an early 1900s shop ďŹ tting. It had to be lifted through the window of the third-ďŹ‚oor room by a crane as the stairwell in the old house was too narrow!
QUIRKY home tour
as boldly as she does, Katharina has this advice: “My work is all about giving people the courage to trust their instincts and judgement. With encouragement, I ﬁnd that people usually quickly get it, and realise that it’s great to be bold. They often then get completely addicted to colour!” Katharina admits that it’s not her strong point to be sensitive to every kind of style. “But even if people prefer delicate colours, as
long as they’re open to being creative, then it’s a pleasure for me to work with them. “When people walk into my home or studio I want to put a smile on their faces – that, in essence, is where my style comes from. That, and an as yet unfulﬁlled secret wish to do up a gypsy caravan!” Given Katharina’s zest for life, her travel bug and her creative energy, we’re certain she’ll make her wish come true.
blue basket chair in Katharina’s living area is another item she made for an art exhibition but couldn’t let go. “It’s a throne for my gypsy soul,” she laughs.
(wild goat) is a homage to a
KATHARINA WÖRMANN German interior designer and stylist, Katharina is renowned for her colour sense. Working from her studio in Bavaria, she not only styles and consults her clients, but she also sews and paints for the interiors she works on, combining the old and the new in creative, original ways. She gets huge job satisfaction from helping her customers find their preferred palettes. katharinawoermann.de
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Capricorn friend. “I’ve decorated it to reﬂect that she can seem austere on the outside, but her heart is full of love, colour and happiness.”
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Got a spare crafternoon? Give your threads a 90s twist with these fab ďŹ‚uoro fabric pens. Weehee! www.cassart.co.uk
Flying colours Super-saturate yourself in bright hues and bring a bit of wow to the day. Just add shades.
Been looking for a pair of ballerina pumps? Check out these adorable ﬂats in a truly gorgeous blue. www.ofﬁce.co.uk
Loving this sunshine yellow leather satchel designed by Nneka at
Brighten up your day. By heck, brighten up everyone’s day with
N’Damus. Way too cool for school. www.ndamus.com
this colour block shift. www.missselfridge.com
And when you’ve ﬁnished making your DIY gift, add the ﬁnishing touch and feel rightly proud. www.johnlewis.com
Snap up this carnival bunting necklace. You can even choose your
Ahoy there, lassies! Homely crochet collides with brash 90s neon in
own ﬂags, says the lovely Lucie Ellen. www.lucieellen.bigcartel.com
this audacious rope scarf. www.yarnisland.etsy.com
P m-p m party For a super-fast, easy shoe update, just pop on a pom-pom! Itâ€™s an ace way to start the day
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HOW TO MAKE… POM-POM SHOES MATERIALS QMini pom-poms QPom-pom trim QYarn QShoes Q2 cardboard rings (or pom-pom maker) QGlue gun
Ever a fan of the fluffy stuff, what Mollie Makes DIY Fashion special would be complete without a pom-pom (or two) making an appearance? It’s the easiest, fastest – and not to mention quirkiest – way of updating a look and adding more than a little touch of all-out fun to your wardrobe. So, gather your yarn offcuts and get winding. Pom-poms (make 2) 01 Cut two donut-shaped pieces from the cardboard. Place together and wind the wool around the rings. Once full of wool, cut into the yarn around the edges of the ring. Or, skip the cardboard steps and
invest in a pom-pom maker. We promise it’s worth it. It’s addictive! 02 If you’re doing it the oldfashioned way, pass a length of wool between the two pieces of cardboard and tie tightly together. 03 Remove the cardboard and trim any uneven lengths of yarn to give your pom-poms a tidy, round look.
Decorating your shoes 04 Cut short pieces of pom-pom trim to fit down the back of the heels. Glue it securely in place. 05 Fix the pom-poms you made onto the toes, using your glue gun. Stick mini pom-poms to the strap. Now you’re ready to hot step it to your next big bash.
Sibylle Roessler Sibylle is a graphic designer and creative blogger. She spends her days coming up with amazing designs and DIY projects for her blog Funkytime to put the vavoom into your life. In November she launched her furniture label with her brother. http://fun.kyti.me
Party animal Welcome to the zoo! Cute or wild, animal print never goes out of fashion
Weâ€™re smitten by this adorable dress with its digital print across a silk cotton blend. An elegant and wise attire for all snazzy night owls. www.meandoli.etsy.com
We’ll be slipping on these darned comfy wool felted slippers of an evening. www.notonthehighstreet.com/soniaspencerengland
How could you not trust this adorable sausage doggie with your
Not only are her dresses gorgeous, they’ve also got handy deep
pockets for all your bits and pieces. www.isabelknowles.bigcartel.com
Feel the love between two pals as you wear these cute earrings, foxily made from crafty shrink plastic. www.andsmile.etsy.com
You don’t often see a badger in a top hat, but it sure does suit them.
Let this delicious, strawberry red, handknit stole give you a snuggly
Cheer up your day with this dapper chap. www.joythestore.com
foxie hug. www.AmeBa77.etsy.com
QUIRKY closet tour
Twinkie Chan combines her love of food with richly coloured hand-spun yarn Photography: TWINKIE CHAN
With a delectably fun and quirky spirit, San Francisco-based Twinkie Chan is our crochet queen for food-themed patterns and accessories in a riot of colour. From bright orange carrot pen cosies, to strawberry and vanilla ice cream scoop hair clips and rainbow jelly bean scarves, her Etsy shop is a delicious crocheted feast for the eyes. Her latest project is a clothing and accessories line, Yummy You! all about celebrating bold colours, patterns and textures, and feeling cute at any age. Twinkie is well on her mission to help everyone feel more scrumptious.
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QUIRKY closet tour
Left: “I can’t get enough pink and hearts!” says Twinkie. Pink dress from I’m Your Present, red dress from Topshop. This page: “I share my closet with my boyfriend, so the other side is boring jeans and plaid shirts!”
This page: I can’t get enough pink and hearts! Pink dress: I’m Your Present, Red Dress: Topshop Right: Dresses in my closet. I have to share my closet with my boyfriend, so the other side is boring jeans and plaid shirts!
QUIRKY closet tour
How did you build your wardrobe style? My wardrobe is inspired by candy, Japanese street fashion, my childhood/80s nostalgia, doll clothing, and (un-stylishly of all) comfort! I like to leave the house feeling happy and bright, like I can take on anything that comes my way. My crochet work is all food-themed, so I may be a bit obsessed with the aesthetics of food. I reach for pieces and colours that look yummy and make me smile, like cotton candy pastels, lemony yellows and superveggie greens. I’m turning 38 this year and part of me feels too old to dress this way, but then I wonder: who made the rules? Dress how you feel! I like to embrace the chaos and just have fun! When did your passion for fashion begin? In college, I hated the word ‘cute’ and absolutely hated pink. On a family trip to Tokyo in my early 20s, I saw a brand called Betty’s Blue, with lots of rufﬂes, polka dots and knitted blue purses with cherries dangling off. This was when I knew that fashion could be fun. This was before the internet was an everyday resource. Now we’re lucky to have social media, fashion blogs and online shops galore to ﬁnd inspiration. We can be exposed to everything
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without leaving the house! I really fell in love with Japanese fashion on that trip, and apparently I started rebelling against my former rebellious self with an overdose of cute!
be transformed into fun crochet items. 02
Where do you ﬁnd your fave items? I do most of my shopping online at places like Etsy, eBay, ASOS, Topshop, ModCloth and a random assortment of smaller online shops. My favourite and most-shopped indie designer is Kelly Eident of I’m Your Present. She captures everything I love so perfectly into clothing! Etsy is a real treasure-trove of vintage and handmade goodies, if you have patience. My favourite vintage ﬁnds are metallic 60s-inspired dresses. There is a Barbarella-robobabe somewhere in me! My favourite silhouette is the ﬁt-and-ﬂair dress. I tend to not follow trends very much, like bodycon or high-low, but instead ﬁnd shapes that I think ﬂatter me most. Skinny jeans are therefore not appearing on my wishlist any time soon! Your personal style is really unique. What are your top tips? I always have to have something in my hair – a bow, a ﬂower, a pair of jumbo pom-poms. My
yarn collection, all to
A love of The Very
Hungry Caterpillar inspired Twinkie to crochet her head band. The Very Hungry Caterpillar Dress is by Freckles and Ginger (as featured in our news pages!) and her boots are from TUK.
Step out with a smile: A smorgasbord of Twinkieâ€™s fave accessories, including silver booties from Irregular Choice and a potato chip necklace from Tatty Devine.
QUIRKY closet tour
head has become my favourite playground for quickly crocheting my own accessories, from ice cream scoops, to sleepy kitty cats, to The Very Hungry Caterpillar. I feel like I’m wearing a special crown. I tend to get lazier about jewellery, because I hate taking it all off and putting it back on again the next day. I like sticking to one necklace I can wear with everything, which usually ends up being my custom Twinkie Chan sprinkles resin necklace by Athina LaBella. Even if my outﬁt is more subdued, like a black dress, or a t-shirt and jeans; adding a little pop of cute or colour with a hair clip or brooch is a cool contrast! Tell us about your shoes! When it comes to shoes, I default to a lot of black! I really love out-of-control-crazy shoes, like Irregular Choice, but I know myself, and I know I won’t actually wear them out very often. I tend to gravitate toward the girlieness of Mary Janes and the contrast of a tough boot. I just can’t walk in heels! I’m more of a wedge/ platform kinda gal. My favourite pair of shoes are Demonia Mary Janes, and I wear them so much because they can go with both jeans and dresses. I recently discovered I can make my boots more fun by sticking hair clips and bows
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to the fronts. Re-purposing accessories and using them in ways other than intended can really stretch out your closet! Most of the clips I crochet are for the hair and for clothes.
another of her fabulous creations, the kitten hair clip. She got her dress from
How has DIY fashion enhanced your life? Discovering the DIY aspect of fashion has been so fun and transformative for me. I love adding unique, eye-catching accents to my outﬁts, and I love supporting other indie designers out there as much as I can. I’ve made a lot of new friendships from being active in the DIY community and I’ve based my business on it, so while sometimes fashion can seem superﬁcial or trivial and DIY may seem like a silly hobby to some people, they have both really changed my life for the best!
I’m Your Present, the necklace from Athina LaBella and her shoes from Demonia. 02
“The ﬁrst three
purses I grabbed as favourites ended up being white! I like to contrast them with a colourful outﬁt,” says Twinkie.
Twinkie Chan Twinkie Chan lives by the ocean in San Francisco, California. She learned to crochet when she was ten years old and wrote her first book, Twinkie Chan’s Crochet Goodies for Fashion Foodies: 20 Yummy Treats To Wear in 2010. You can see more of her fabulous food-themed accessories at www.twinkiechan.com
Candy girl Get Twinkie’s style and crochet these quirky-as-youlike biscuit-inspired hair clips – they’re kinda moreish!
HOW TO MAKE… FROSTED ANIMAL HAIR CLIPS MATERIALS QApprox 15g/20m pink or white aran yarn Q5mm (UK 6, US H/8) crochet hook QA handful of soft toy stuffing QMulti-coloured seed beads or tiny pom-poms QFabric glue or needle and thread to match your yarn QScissors QTapestry needle QHair slide TENSION Tension is not important for this project but it is important to ensure the stitches are dense so any stuffing does not poke through.
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ABBREVIATIONS (UK) St(s) stitch(es) Ch chain Dc double crochet Ss slip stitch Yrh yarn round hook Dc2tog double crochet 2 together – (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook MEASUREMENTS Camel approx 8 x 7cm (31 8 x 2¾”), rhino approx 10 x 5.5cm (4 x 2¼”) PATTERN NOTES Each animal is made in two pieces: front and back, both identical. These are then sewn together and stuffed. Finally they are adorned with sprinkles and made into hair clips.
Celebrate your sweet side with this adorable little crocheted frosted animal biscuit! You can turn your camel or rhino into a brooch, hair clip, necklace or appliqué. This is a quick project to finish and also a fabulous stash buster. All you need is a small amount of yarn, a little bit of soft toy stuffing and a handful of rainbow sprinkles to add a touch of sugar to your favourite outfit! Camel (make 2) Using either pink or white yarn. Foundation: Ch5 Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of last 3 sts, turn. (4 sts) Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, ch4, turn. (10 sts) Row 3: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (10 sts) Row 4: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, turn. (11 sts) Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), ss in next 4 sts, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (12 sts) Row 6: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. (8 sts)
Row 7: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each st across, turn. (8 sts) Row 8: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 dc in each st across, ch5, turn. (12 sts) Row 9: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, dc2tog, turn. (10 sts) Row 10: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 ss in next st, 1 dc in each st across, turn. (9 sts) Row 11: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 ss in each of next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, leave remaining st unworked, ch5, turn. (13 sts) Row 12: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, dc2tog, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. (8 sts) Row 13: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 dc in each st across, turn. (7 sts) Row 14: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog, turn. (5 sts) Row 15: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 ss in each of next 2 sts, (1 ss, ch1, 1 dc) in next st, 1 dc in last st. Break off yarn, weave in ends on front. Make the back piece to match but do not weave in the tail end, instead leave about 60cm (23”) of yarn for sewing.
Finishing 01 Place the front and back pieces on top of each other and stitch the edges together with your yarn tail and a tapestry needle. 02 Stuff the animal biscuit lightly with stuffing as you go, especially after sewing around a leg, where it can be difficult to stuff if you sew too far away from it. When you’ve stitched all the way around, tie off and weave in your end. 03 Decide what you’d like to turn your animal into: a brooch, hair clip, headband or necklace, then sew or glue on the hardware. 04 Sew or glue on small rainbow beads or pom-poms to the front. If you’re making a necklace, sprinkle both sides, in case it turns while you wear it. Now you can show off your yummy new accessory! Rhino (make 2) Using either pink or white yarn. Foundation: Ch5 Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of last 3 sts, turn. (4 sts) Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in last st, ch3, turn. (9 sts) Row 3: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in last st, turn. (9 sts)
Row 4: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each st across, turn. (9 sts) Row 5: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 ss in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, turn (9 sts) Row 6: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. (5 sts) Row 7: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each sts across, turn. (5 sts) Row 8: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in last st, ch3, turn. (10 sts) Row 9: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each st across, turn. (9 sts) Row 10: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each st across, turn. (9 sts) Row 11: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 ss in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog, turn. (8 sts) Row 12: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, turn. (5 sts) Row 13: Ch1 (does not count as st), 2 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in each st across, turn. (6 sts) Row 14: Ch1 (does not count as st), miss 1 st, 1 ss in next st, 1 dc in each st across, turn. (5 sts) Row 15: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, leave
remaining st unworked, turn. (4 sts) Row 16: Ch1 (does not count as st), 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog. Break off yarn, weave in ends on front. Make back to match but do not weave in tail end. Leave about 60cm (23”) of yarn for sewing. Finishing Follow the same instructions as for the camel hair clip. Follow Twinkie’s lead and wear a whole caravan of camels or bloat of hippos at once (collective nouns are our favourite, can you tell?).
pop your collar
PHOTOGRAPHS: HEY LOOK
Give new cool to old shirts with some simple embellishing. We asked the girls from super-blog Hey Look to share three quick ideas
HOW TO… CUSTOMISE YOUR COLLARS MATERIALS For the sequin heart collar: QA shirt QSequins in the colour of your choice QMatching needle and thread For the beaded collar: QA shirt QPretty beads or pearls
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QMatching needle and thread For the neon hearts collar: QA shirt QFabric paint in the colour of your choice QA brush or sponge QSticky back plastic QA craft knife QPencil and paper
If you’re anything like us, you’ve got a closet full of clothes but never anything to wear – everything feels so ‘been there, done that’, and there‘s that niggly temptation to go out and get a whole new wardrobe. But save your pennies and be thrifty with an easy make-over. With these three simple ideas you can adorn a collared shirt in no time. Minimum effort for maximum effect! We’ve used paint, beads and sequins to embellish these collars, but you can get really creative and use whatever
you think would make your collar pop. Explore craft stores, sewing supplies and even hardware shops for materials. SEQUIN HEART COLLAR 01 Start by drawing a heart shape onto both collar tips with some chalk or a pencil. Begin sewing on the first sequins at the very tip. 02 Fix the sequin by sewing it on from two sides. Take your needle up through the middle of the sequin, then down on one side. Then take it back through the middle of the sequin again, and
down through the other side. 03 Move on to the next sequin. For best results, sew the heart outline first, then fill in the shape with the rest of your sequins.
by pushing the needle back through the same spot, then move to the next pearl position. 03 Continue in the same way until your shape is complete.
BEADED COLLAR 01 Decide how big you want your bead-embellished collar tips to be, then softly mark it off with some chalk or a pencil. Starting at one corner of the collar, push the needle through from underneath, stringing the first pearl onto the thread as you do so. 02 Stitch the pearl onto the fabric
NEON HEART COLLAR 01 Iron the collar – it needs to be extra smooth for this project. Draw small heart outlines onto some paper, then (without peeling off the paper sheet) place your sticky back plastic on top of the template you just made. Cut along the heart outlines with your craft knife to create a stencil.
02 Cut your stencil into the desired size – this depends on how big you want the gaps between the hearts on the collar to be. Peel off the paper sheet from your sticky back plastic, and stick the stencil onto the collar. Make sure the stencil is stuck down really tight. 03 Brush on a layer of paint. Remove the stencil carefully and repeat these steps on your collar as often as you like (just make sure that there’s no paint on the sticky part of the stencil). You can clean the stencil as you go along or create multiple stencils if you
HOW TO… CUSTOMISE YOUR COLLARS want to be on the safe side. 04 Once you’re finished, let the paint dry, then make it machinesafe by ironing the collar – follow the instructions that come with your fabric paint. Hearts aren’t the only shape you can stencil onto a collar – we’re thinking geometric shapes, polka dots, even little kittens or birdies – there’s no limit (well, just your cutting skills!). Glue some metal book corners on, try some studs or even a spot of embroidery. Get creative and enjoy!
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Hey Look Hey Look are Michaela and Lotta, Helsinki-based creatives with a background in event production and visual planning, photography and graphic design. After working in events for some time, their wish to concentrate on what they love most (and do best) grew so big that they decided to form Hey Look in June 2011. Now they spend their time crafting, painting, building, being florists/wedding coordinators, meeting lovely people, browsing pretty inspiration – living the dream. www.heylook.fi
I COULD DO THATâ€Ś
Knotted rope heels
Go nautical and revamp a pair of plain heels with Genevaâ€™s knotted rope anklets. Easy and cheap to rustle up, just combine rope, a jump ring and lobster clasp. Tie a double knot and set sail. Simple, me hearties. www.apairandasparediy.com
Bohemian Take the road less-travelled and wander where your spirit takes you, with fashion ideas from every corner of the globe.
Prints to get you planning your next (shopping) trip
Feather trends = fashion friends
ims with Jazz up den eads b & buttons
Be unconventional & creative
Photographer Tiffany Mumford shows us her closet
A shopping guide to New York City!
Collecting trims and trinkets
BOHEMIAN closet tour
A Marni bag with pom-poms on a chair which Tiffany spied at Brixton market in London. Right: “The dress is by Jovovic Hawk and the curtains are from my mum’s old house. The little horse is for my niece Lila to ride,” says Tiffany.
Tiffany Mumford kicks off her sandals to talk hippy smocks and animal prints Photography: TIFFANY MUMFORD
When she’s not taking gorgeous photographs, London-based Tiffany Mumford throws on a vintage Indian dress and grabs a pom-pom embellished bag and escapes to her little house by the sea in Morocco. Her love of clothes and beautiful things led her to fashion photography and the chance to create a story and disappear into her imagination. She balances this captivating escapism with taking portraits of people in their real environments.
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BOHEMIAN closet tour
BOHEMIAN closet tour
How did you build your wardrobe style? My wardrobe is a real mix of vintage pieces, eBay and market ﬁnds. In the winter I live in jeans and sweatshirts or vintage smock tops. I’m a photographer and for work I have to be practical and mostly wear jeans and ﬂats, but I have lots of printed and embroidered jeans so I don’t feel bored. In the summer I wear hippy dresses or jumpsuits with Havaianas ﬂip ﬂops or jewelled Marni sandals; in the winter sneakers or Isabel Marant Dicker ankle boots which have the perfect heel height for all day wear. How have all the elements come together? I tend to buy the same pieces, like black Baxter jeans from Topshop or faux leather pants which I like to wear with ﬂoaty tops to mix hard and soft looks. I have about 10 varieties of grey sweatshirt! I have lots of vintage Indian dresses, including the same Phool dress in four different
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colours. I like comfort and clothes I can move in. Another staple are vintage Mexican embroidered dresses and tops, my favourite has a Mayan pyramid topped with people, ﬂowers and birds. I try to buy things I will wear for years and tend not to follow trends too much.
Tiffany keeps her
eyes open for feminine, pretty bracelets. 02
A patterned Isabel
Marant belt to clinch the waist of a pretty
Where do you ﬁnd favourite items? I occasionally buy Marni for the quirky prints and shapes, I really like their shoes and bags, particularly vintage pieces. And Isabel Marant; I like the boho luxe vibe and I wear her pieces for everyday and going out. I buy the printed jeans, embroidered tops and dresses and often ﬁnd past season pieces on eBay for reduced prices.
boho dress or slip on with jeans. 03
vintage toys and this is her London bus collection – she’s a London girl born and bred! Above rests an Isabel Marant bag
Do you have pieces you keep for years? My most treasured items are a vintage Marni gold sequinned jacket, which I’ve had for 15 years, also an Isabel Marant embroidered
from Liberty, snapped up in a sale.
A beautiful vintage kimono hangs like an artwork. â€œThe donkey is from Essaouira, my get-away town!â€? laughs Tiffany. She loves both the colour orange and the 60s, so the lamp is very special to her.
BOHEMIAN closet tour
and mirrored gilet, there were only 50 made. Another classic is a Chloe dress by Stella McCartney with a horse print. And I have a pair of glitter heels from Miu Miu which I rarely wear but love to look at! Some of my vintage dresses are among my most treasured pieces because I would never be able to replace them. What are your top tips for styling? I love colour and print; I wear a lot of ﬂorals and paisleys but also love animal print, particularly leopard. I tend to go for pinks and reds mostly. I ﬁnd long tunics or smock tops
really practical for work while still showing my own style. So I often cut down vintage dresses to wear with jeans, then I’ll add some beaded bracelets and necklaces. Even though I’m very casual, I feel dressed up.
For her work as a
photographer, Tiffany side steps plain jeans and instead favours printed designs, mostly by Isabel
What are your fave places to shop? My favourite shops are in Paris. I’m lucky as I go there for work and I always try to visit Merci in the Marais and Isabel Marant on Rue de Saintonge. In London I love Liberty and Diverse on Upper Street. I also love internet shopping at Net-a-Porter and Matches.
Tiffany shares a few
pieces of her stunning collection: a Marni ﬂower necklace, vintage silk slip and early Isabel Marant waistcoat. “I stalked it obsessively on eBay
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Tiffany Mumford Photography
and eventually, many
Tiffany Mumford is a London-based fashion and portrait photographer, drawn to the romance and escapism of fashion stories. Her other passion is the warmth, light and vibrant colours and textures of Morocco, where she has a little home by the sea. A true boho girl at heart, she loves beading and fringing and free-spirited travel. See her alluring pictures at www.tiffanymumford.com or follow her at www.tiffanymumford.com/blog
years later, I found it!” says Tiffany happily.
BOHEMIAN get the look
Turn your thoughts to a dreamy, boho summer with Justina’s delicate flower crown. Very Midsummer Night’s Dream, wouldn’t you say? Get Mother Nature points aplenty and enjoy this very simple take on a re-emerging traditional craft, flower arranging.
Cut yourself a length of jewellery wire. Go into the woods and rustle up some green foilage or visit your local florists. Artifical greenery works just as well and of course your wreath will keep forever. 01
GET THE LOOK
02 Wrap the wire comfortably around your noggin to make a circle that feels secure enough not to fall off. Bend the ends together.
Add a goddess vibe to your festival outfit this year with a simple foilage crown idea from Justina Blakeney Justina Blakeney is one free-spirited, blogging design mama, living in her tropical ‘jungalow’ in Los Angeles with her hubbie and baby. When she’s not styling photoshoots or devising crazy creative campaigns, she’s coming up with all manner of ideas to bring nature indoors to decorate her home. Vivid colours, bold patterns, thrifted finds, it’s all about creative reuse and making it personal. With eclectic inspiration aplenty on her blog, she’s handpicked this cute and simple flower wreath to share with us. Bedeck yourself in three easy steps and choose some pretty flowers. We think we all deserve a happy, natural halo. http://blog.justinablakeney.com
03 Wrap your greenery all around your circle so no wire shows and fasten with wire on four sides. Add flowers and Queen Titania is ready.
Flight of fancy Add a wisp of delicate boho plumage to your outfits. No tickling allowed...
We reckon youâ€™ll feel light as a feather and free as a bird in this pretty scarf. Step outside and follow your dreams. www.notonthehighstreet.com/tuttiandco
Strut proud as a peacock in gorgeous Liberty print. All hidden, all yours. www.maribellebydonnajane.etsy.com
Feeling romantic or rock chick today? Combine the two in this
Treat your Kindle to a lovely Liberty peacock print cover. Yes, you
decadent chain and feather design. www.topshop.com
can be nerdy and chic. www.notonthehighstreet.com/covercraft
Tickle your fancy with a tawny feather ribbon trim and give a skirt or cropped trousers a quick boho update. www.jaffefeathers.co.uk
Wing it with these pretty handmade polymer clay buttons
A rather beautiful feather band in 22ct gold plate for a very special
handpainted with feathers. www.missbeatrixshop.etsy.com
occasion. Best take it off for the washing up. www.alexmonroe.com
K C I H C Y P P I H mithâ€™s h Charlotte S it w y d a re y Get fest ings ired boho earr sp in l a iv rn a c
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HOW TO MAKE… FEATHERED EARRINGS MATERIALS QLeather or a faux-leather fabric QFeathers QSpike beads QGem stones QChain QCharms QEarring hooks QJump-rings, 7mm and 4mm QCord end findings QStrong glue QPliers
Earrings like these are designed for dancing in the breeze and twirling in the sun at your fave music festival. Using a mix of leather, feathers, jewels and charms, you can take the look as far as you want. The beauty of these earrings is that they can be made using vintage or broken jewels and charms or recycled leather. 01 Draw circles on the back of your leather using a penny and cut out. 02 Mark and pierce the holes where your jump-rings will be. Make sure they’re not too close to the edge of the circle or the leather will split. These holes are approx 3mm from the edge and 3mm apart. You’ll also need to make sure the top and bottom hole are directly above each other to keep the earring balanced. 03 Using a mix of colours and sizes decide on your design. Once
you’re happy, glue into place. You might find it easier to move the jewels around with a toothpick. 04 Take a cord end finding and apply a small dab of glue to the inside edges. Taking one of your pairs of feathers, pop them into the cord end and close the sides over using your pliers. If your feathers have a slight curl to them then you want the curled part to be towards the back. Repeat with the second set of feathers and set aside to dry. 05 Cut a piece of chain the same length as the spike, or 6cm (2 3 8”). Fix a charm to the last loop, add a
second charm to the centre and a final charm halfway between the central charm and the end of the chain. Repeat. 06 To assemble, take a 7mm jumpring and thread through the central hole on your leather disc. Then add a feather, chain and spike. For the disc’s two holes either side, thread a 7mm jump-ring and then add a star, spike and feather. Repeat for your other earring. 07 Using a 4mm jump-ring, fix your earring hook to the top of the earring. Wear with a smile and a floral crown.
CHARLOTTE SMITH Essex-based Charlotte loves nothing more than turning old treasures into the new and beautiful. This includes renovating an old house with her husband. A PA by day, she spends her nights writing her jewellery-making blog, Lotts and Lots, where she shares tutorials. www.lottsandlots.blogspot.com
Dig out your denims and make some new-season cut-offs with Donna Bramhallâ€™s stitchy idea
BEAD KEY (not to scale) Silver bugle bead Lilac faceted bead Peach rocailles satiniert bead Neon yellow pearl bead Pink cup sequin Small spike pendant
Fig. 5 Fig. 1 Fig. 4
Vintage button Purple lambswool yarn Turquoise lambswool yarn Peach embroidery thread White seed bead
HOW TO MAKE… EMBELLISHED DENIMS MATERIALS QBaggy old jeans QEmbroidery scissors QBeads as listed in the bead key (above) QYarn and embroidery thread as listed in the bead key (above) QSewing thread to match the colour of your jeans QFine beading needle QChunky darning needle QPins
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Chopping up your old jeans into denim cut-offs is a sure-fire step in prepping for some winter or summer sun – depending where you happen to be. Make yours a little different with a fab mixture of embellishments (a true boho chic staple) and add your own twist using beads that you already have in your stash. Make sure you secure each stitch at the beginning and end of every step. It also helps if you pin (or tack) the pocket lining up and out of the way. 01 Sew the vintage-style buttons an equal distance from each other onto the pocket edge just below the double top stitching. At either side of each button, sew your bugle beads in a row following the curve of the double top stitching (see Fig.1) 02 Starting with the button closest to the waistband, sew the first spike at a right angle, secure the spike in place with three stitches before threading on one neon yellow pearl bead. Secure the pearl bead through the spike hole with a further two stitches (see Fig.2). Repeat for the second and third spike – they
should be equally spaced, around 1cm (½") apart (depending on the size of the jeans pocket). Repeat for the second and third button. Manoeuvre your spikes in place if necessary to adjust the angle, and when you’re happy with the look, secure in place with a simple tack stitch, (you can simply remove this stitch later if you want). 03 In between the buttons, there should now be a triangle shaped gap under the row of silver bugle beads. Secure a stitch at the top, in the centre of the triangle, on the inside of the pocket then thread through to the front so your needle and thread are now on the outside of the pocket. Thread two lilac-faceted beads, two white seed beads and a further two lilac faceted beads, all onto one thread. Pull the thread loaded with the string of beads straight down the centre of the triangle, and stitch the last faceted bead in place with three stitches on the inside of the pocket. (see Fig.3) Repeat this step in between the other triangle. 04 Stitch on the beads in the same way as for step three but this time, in between the spikes. Thread on
one white seed bead, one silver bugle bead, two peach rocailles beads, one white seed bead and one silver bugle bead (see Fig.4). Pull the thread loaded with the string of beads down the centre in between the spikes, and secure the last bead in position with three stitches on the inside of the pocket. Repeat five more times in-between the spikes on the other buttons. Sew one single-faceted bead either side of the central spike on each button. 05 With turquoise yarn and a darning needle, sew a simple straight stitch. Make your visible stitches around 1cm (½") and the gap in-between them around 4mm (¼"). Embroider over the top of the first spike down in front of the central spike and one stitch over. Turn your jeans at an angle and continue sewing to and from each spike in a zig-zag fashion. Next, using the purple yarn, embroider a zig-zag stitch inbetween the turquoise stitch’s 4mm (¼") gap. Double up the peach embroidery thread and sew three times over the central spike of each button. 06 On the inside of the pocket,
Bedazzle, bejewelled - be awesome!
approximately 1cm (½") from spike tips, secure the thread with three stitches, and push the needle through to the outside. Thread the pink sequin and neon pearl bead on the same thread and then take the needle back through the sequin hole through to the inside of the jeans pocket (see Fig.5). Repeat this a further two times. There’s no need to secure the sequin first – the bead will keep it in place. Start approximately 4mm (¼") under the centre of the sequin and secure a stitch with one white seed bead, one silver bugle bead and one peach rocailles bead threaded on (see Fig.5). Repeat this two more times at a slight angle either side of the central string of beads, then repeat the whole step four more times under the other spikes. 07 08 Next, embroider a straight stitch and zig-zag stitch in peach and turquoise around the top of the pocket insert. Finally string two white seed beads, and stitch to the end of each zig-zag point Find some sun, and wear with glee (preferably while eating icecream and playing Frisbee) – and hey, if it’s too nippy, you can always layer with opaques.
Donna Bramhall Donna loves to create – from clothing to businesses! She’s founder of Haberdasher Me, and also Spinster’s Emporium. When she isn’t busy lecturing in fashion design in both London and Nottingham, she proudly spends most of her time procrastinating (and researching) on Pinterest, sourcing inspiration for her next project.
Free spirit Be effortless with clashing prints and folk-inspired pieces. Just add leather accessories and a camper van...
Hit the open road in this beautiful pintucked top, perfect for a laidback, haute hippie adventure www.anthropologie.eu
Blogger on the go? Russian-inspired fabric makes this the prettiest laptop bag we’ve ever clicked on. www.muhamors.etsy.com
Walk on the wild side with a dash of zebra print in this cotton
These vibrant patchwork scarves from Black Llama make our
headscarf. Sassy. www.sassystitchesbylori.etsy.com
heart sing. We’ll take an armful, please. www.blackllamastudio.etsy.com
Customise your threads with a swish of geometric woven ikat ribbon and hop onto the global vibe. www.lesbonribbon.etsy.com
Do these dresses (in their own drawstring bag) make you wanna go
Revamp a top with these little ﬂoral wooden cuties and it’ll soon
on holiday? Yup, us too. www.notonthehighstreet.com/auraque
become one of your fave pieces. www.berrynicecrafts.etsy.com
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POLAROID FRAME IMAGE: ISTOCKPHOTO/SX70
True colours Gather your fave ribbons and offcuts and stitch this stash-busting boho clutch bag by Dominique Davant from the Sew Over It team
HOW TO MAKE… A BOHO CLUTCH BAG MATERIALS QPiece of leather/ suede, 20 x 25cm (7 7 8 x 9 7 8”) QTwo small pieces of leather/suede, as wide as your zip, and 3cm (1¼”) long QLightweight iron-on interfacing, 20 x 25cm (7 7 8 x 9 7 8”) QCalico, 20 x 25cm (7 7 8 x 9 7 8”)
Q6 -8 ribbons of your choice, 25cm (9¾”) long Q8 -inch zip QMatching sewing thread QMasking tape QSewing machine (with zip foot) QBull dog/paper clip PROJECT NOTE QRemember to backstitch at the start and end of every seam.
As if we ever needed an excuse to delve into our stash and have a good rummage around our ribbon collection. We love finding forgotten gems and off-cuts we couldn’t bear to be parted from and saved for that special project. Well, this is it! This little clutch bag works best if you mix up the colours, widths and textures. The back is made out of leather – use nappa leather or suede, as it’s not too thick and is lovely and soft.
03 Take the first ribbon and place it up to the folded edge. Pin in place and then stitch along the edge of the ribbon. Repeat on the other side, ensuring the ribbon is completely stitched down.
01 Start by ironing the interfacing onto the wrong side of the calico piece. The shiny side of the interfacing has the glue on it. This goes down onto the calico. Turn the steam off on the iron and put on a medium heat setting. As you iron over the interfacing it will become fused to the calico.
05 Repeat with all the ribbons until you reach approximately 1.5cm (5 8 ”) from the bottom edge of the calico piece. The amount left will determine the seam allowance for the bottom edge of the bag.
02 Iron over 1.5cm (5 8 ”) of one of the long sides to the wrong side (interfaced side). This will be the top edge of the bag.
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04 Then take the next ribbon and pin it right up to the edge of the first ribbon. Edgestitch along both sides as before. You may need to switch the thread colour to match the ribbon.
06 Fix your zip foot onto the machine. Take the zip and keeping it closed, stitch the little pieces of leather to either end. There should be one at the top – just in front of the slider – and one at the bottom, stitched inside of the metal or plastic end of the zip. You cannot
pin through the leather/suede so you will need to hold it in place while sewing. Try to keep the stitching close to the edge of the leather/suede. Trim the leather/ suede so that with the zip, it measures the same length as the top of the bag. Take the 20 x 25cm (7 7 8 x 9 7 8 â€?) piece of leather/suede and place one of the long edges up against one side of the zip (about 5mm from the zip teeth). Use the masking tape to hold it in place. The tape will also help you sew over the leather, preventing it from getting stuck to the presser foot. If you cannot see the edge of the leather/suede through the masking tape clearly, then you may need to draw a pencil line on the tape, marking the edge so that it will be easy to sew. 07
08 Change the stitch length to a slightly longer stitch than average. Put the zip foot to the necessary side and stitch about 2mm from the edge of the leather/suede, using
the pencil line as a guide. You will be stitching through the masking tape. Make sure you start sewing right from the leather/suede ends of the zip. Then remove the tape from the leather/suede. 09 Take the calico piece (now with ribbons) and place the folded edge on the other side of the zip (again 5mm from the teeth). Change the zip foot to the other side, and stitch 2mm in from the folded edge. The zip should now be stitched to both sides of the bag.
mark in the leather/suede, so either hold it firmly as you stitch, or use a bull dog or paper clip to keep it together. With the calico side on top, stitch around the remaining three edges of the bag, starting at the top-right-hand edge of the bag. The seam allowance should be 1cm (3 8 â€?) for the shorter sides and then whatever distance was left along the bottom edge of the calico piece. At the corners, pivot by lowering the needle into the fabric and then lifting up the presser foot and pivoting on the needle.
10 Open the zip and place the two sides right sides together (essentially turning the bag inside out). Pinning it in place will leave a
11 Turn the bag right sides out, and tease the corners out with a knitting needle from the inside. Your boho clutch bag is ready to go!
Dominique Davant This bag was designed by Dominique Davant and the steps were put together by the Sew Over It team. The ribbons featured are from guest editor Lisaâ€™s trip to India, and are for sale at the Sew Over It online shop. http://shop.sewoverit.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPH: KANGAN ARORA
Guest Editor Lisa Comfort on why travel and trims make her heart skip a beat I’m a beads and trimmings junkie. There, I’ve said it. I don’t think there is a Trimmings Anonymous group, and this isn’t the kind of vice that keeps my parents up all night worrying. But it does mean that I have more beads, stones and ribbons than I know what to do with. It is no surprise then that I recently booked a trip to India purely to source these sparkling treasures. Five straight days of foraging. Bliss. India is like the Mecca for trimming addicts like myself. I spent hours in tiny streets lined with even tinier shops, with barely room for one customer. And even when I thought I had bought a lifetime of stock, a gold and turquoise stone glimmering through the dusty air tempted me further. I am the ultimate magpie and wherever I go I seek out old vintage shops, car-boot sales and charity stores which call out to me with the promise of something different. Whether it is an old necklace that could be recycled into customising fuel, vintage buttons
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that are dying to replace the boring ones on my cardie, or a length of pretty ribbon that currently has no place but that I know will inspire me one day, I always ﬁnd something. My favourite trims in my collection are rose beads in coral and mint, a wide-embroidered ribbon of Mexican pinks, greens and yellows and sew-on rectangular diamantes in a rusty gold that are waiting to decorate an outﬁt perfect for one of Gatsby’s glittering parties. For those who haven’t yet discovered what you can do with a bit of trim, let me tell you… When a plain t-shirt is no longer loved in my drawers, I give it a new lease of life by adorning the neckline with a scattering of colourful beads. When my favourite skirt seems to lack lustre, I trim the hem with an embroidered ribbon that stands out from the crowd. And when my denim jacket seems dull and boring, I stud the collar and cuffs. My wardrobe is unique because of my addiction.
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I LOve NY Jostle for vintage ﬁnds at Brooklyn Flea then be dazzled by tasty buttons, fabrics and rhinestone trims in the Garment District. Don’t forget to take an empty suitcase… Words: MATT BLAKE AND LISA COMFORT
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PHOTOGRAPH: LEMORE ZAUSNER
Clockwise: Luck out at the Brooklyn Flea; dĂŠcoupage at Pins & Needles; pretty things at M&J Trimmings and a rainbow of silk scarves at Beads of Paradise.
orship all things fashion? New York should deﬁnitely be your Mecca. From sidewalk to skyscraper, the city is a hub of style, spectacle and sartorial elegance. And at its core lies its world-famous Garment District. Nestling from 5th and 9th Avenues and 34th to 42nd streets, the area is home to showrooms of almost all the world’s major fashion labels. Since the early 20th century, the Garment District has been at the heart of fashion manufacturing and design in the United States. While many of the old warehouses have since dissolved into time, its streets are still lined with bright, bustling shops and boutiques selling more fabric, trimmings and haberdashery than you can possibly imagine. One of the most famous is Mood Fabrics (www.moodfabrics.com). This is hands down the best fabric shop in Manhattan. It has
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appeared on a host of TV programmes and is well-loved by the many dressmaking and craft communities of New York. Its wealth of choice can be overwhelming, but it’s well worth the trip, even if you’re not planning to buy. Just a block away is M&J Trimmings (www. mjtrim.com). But enter at your peril, for once you set foot inside this Aladdin’s cave you may never want to leave. Decked from ﬂoor to ceiling is more than a hundred-thousand trimmings from across the globe; buttons from Italy, laces from Switzerland, ribbons from France, Swarovski crystals from Austria and much more. This is a must-stop shop for anyone with design on the mind. In doing so you’ll join a list of clients that include Dolce and Gabbana, Victoria’s Secret, Ralph Lauren and Christian Dior. If you are already going dizzy with the sight of sequins and studs and fancy a cultural
Explore some of
the huge range of garments and accessories at the Fashion Institute of Technology museum. 02
Make these old
wooden spools into mini ﬂower holders. 03
Take your pick
from the kaleidoscope of fabrics on display at Mood Fabrics.
Colourful embellishments welcome you at the M&J Trimmings treasure trove. Got a DIY project in mind? We reckon you might just ﬁnd what you’re looking for here.
hiatus from shopping, the Fashion Institute of Technology’s museum is the perfect respite (www.ﬁtnyc.edu/museum.asp). Lose yourself in time through more than 50,000 garments and accessories from the 18th century to present day, with collections from such historical heavyweights as Adrian, Balenciaga, Chanel and Dior. There are worthwhile visits beyond the Garment District too. After a picnic in Central Park, walk over to Lexington Street and seek out Tinsel Trading (www.tinseltrading.com), a family business for almost a century. Founded by tailor Arch Bergoffen in 1933, it began trading exclusively in metal thread – tinsel. It is now run by his granddaughter, Marcia, and stocks a vast range of metal materials and embellishments: trims, fringes, tassels, cord, fabric ribbons and appliqués from across the globe. You’ll see why they say customers spend
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hours sifting through endless jars and boxes of treasures. With so much vintage stock, almost nothing you buy can be found anywhere else. Stroll a few blocks up Lexington and you’ll reach Pins & Needles. It is tucked away on the second ﬂoor but must not be overlooked. They stock modern, bright and colourful fabrics for crafting, plus haberdashery and supplies. And there are classes. So if there is time in your schedule, check out what they have on before you go (www.pinsandneedlesnyc.com). You cannot visit New York without popping over East River into Brooklyn. In fact for some, its appeal is greater than Manhattan. Less manic, less expensive (in parts), but in no way less cool. One of the best things about Brooklyn for the DIY fashionista, is its bustling ﬂea market scene (www.brooklynﬂea.com). There are four in all, where more than 250 vendors peddle antiques and vintage clothing. Outside
Stop off at the retro
styled Baby Cakes cafe for a wheat, gluten and diary free treat.
suitcase with fab vintage trimmings at Tinsel Trading. 03
Beads of Paradise.
PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP RIGHT, A.CHESTER ONG; CENTRE, LEMORE ZAUSNER; BOTTOM RIGHT, ALICE GAO
in the summer and inside in winter, the markets cater for all seasons, rain or shine. As for any vibrant metropolis, it’s sometimes best to put away the map and wander – you never know what hidden gem you might chance upon. Collecther, perhaps, with its $25 Dress Sundays (www.collecthernews.blogspot.co.uk); or the more upmarket Amarcord Vintage in Williamsburg (www.amarcordvintagefashion. com). Known for its quality 60s and 70s fashion, Amarcord is a staple for New York vintage shopping. If you don’t have time for Brooklyn, you can always stop at their shop in Soho. After a long afternoon of shopping, the allure of an iconic yellow taxi can be overpowering. But why not meander by foot across the Willamsburg Bridge, towards Little Italy, and stop off at Baby Cakes for a sugar boost? (www. babycakesnyc.com) This cute, retro-styled café offers a healthier option than most of the city’s
caloriﬁc cupcake stores; all its delicacies are free from wheat, gluten and dairy. If beads are your thing and you are in the area (near Union Square), Beads of Paradise is a must (www.beadsofparadisenyc.com). Beyond their billions of beads, owners Brian Kenner and Richard Meyer have packed this charming boutique with artifacts and jewellery collected in Africa, Vietnam, Myanmar and India since the 1980s. And ﬁnally, the best bit of advice for fashion lovers visiting New York, is to stop and look around you. This city exudes creativity and style and there’s nothing like sitting back, relaxing and doing a bit of people watching. As Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky; in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” And nothing could be truer than for the city of New York.
Indulge in a spot of
choice 60s and 70s shopping at Amacord Vintage.
peaceful zone from the hustle and bustle outside, Pins & Needles is a sewist’s haven. Step inside and chat at the table as you pick your fave fabrics to take home.
Adding a helping of kitsch to your vintage finds never goes amiss! Mix it up with inspiration from creative lasses.
IY An easy D for holiday p u tge ed spir
Bows are where itâ€™s at! Flick to our shopping page
11 6 70s fabric
s make fab mini bunting
Ideas for added nostalgia
Pastel hues make sweet statements
Kate Gabrielleâ€™s sherbet dream wardrobe
RETRO closet tour
Why hide it away? Kate arranges some of her favourite pretty dresses and accessories in a corner of her room. Right: Orange and white lace dresses hanging on a wall make a unique display.
Pops of pastel and polka dots... Kate Gabrielle is in vintage heaven Photographs: KATE GABRIELLE
With her three much-loved cats at her side, illustrator Kate Gabrielle creates witty punbased artwork and adorable pen and ink doodles of 1920s ďŹ‚appers with elegant black bobs. Kate can be found running her blog and website from her studio in New Jersey, or watching classic 1960s ďŹ lms in sweet vintage dresses; she loves polka dots, lace and Peter Pan collars and if a unicorn, dinosaur or Disney character turns up for tea, all the better.
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RETRO closet tour
RETRO closet tour
How did you build your wardrobe style? I’ve spent years collecting different pieces that appeal to me, and over time my closet magically morphed into my dream wardrobe. Growing up, my fashion idol was Clarissa Darling from the TV show Clarissa Explains it All. She had the most eclectic, fun sense of style! My own personal sense of style eventually diverged from her 90s mix-and-match look but the learned habit of building my wardrobe with unique one-of-a-kind oddities never went away and deﬁnitely sparked my love for vintage. Where did you ﬁnd your treasured items? Almost every one of my favourite items came from Etsy. I have a terrible habit of windowshopping for vintage on Etsy. It’s dangerous when you ﬁnd an item you love and, miracle of miracles, it’s in your size! How can you resist?! My all-time favourite was a beautiful light pink
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60s party dress, from Fancy That Vintage. I was practically in tears when I stumbled upon that giant bow and those lace bell sleeves! The fact that the measurements matched my own conﬁrmed that it was meant to be. Another favourite was a pair of pink lace-up heels. My cousin found them while we were shopping and insisted I try them on, despite the fact that they were too small for me. I felt like Cinderella when I found that they ﬁtted perfectly!
Purrfect ﬁnd: Kate
wears a mint green vintage dress with charming crochet details around the neckline and sleeves. 02
A colourful vintage
hat collection makes a wonderful display. 03
“I have quite a
weakness for vintage
Do you have favourite colour choices? I’ve always been drawn to pastel colours – my childhood bedroom was painted with four different colour walls: light pink, baby blue, mint green and lavender. They’re such happy hues! It’s impossible to feel blue when you’re wearing a perfectly pastel teal. And during the cold months it always lifts my mood to put on my light pink coat and polka dot boots. The
accessories,” says Kate. ‘I’m especially smitten with brightly coloured ﬂoral enamel pins!”
A dressing-up wonderland complete with ďŹ‚ouncy crinoline petticoats. Cat hanger from Urban OutďŹ tters.
RETRO closet tour
world can be so dreary sometimes, it’s nice to add pops of pastel to brighten things up! Share your top tips for styling. I’m of the mind that you should wear whatever makes you happy – even if everyone else thinks you look silly! So my number one tip for styling would be to dress to the beat of your own drum. I also love layering – dresses over shirts, skirts over dresses, sleeveless dresses over long-sleeve dresses… Layering lets you think outside the box and wear one item hundreds of different ways! I also have a habit of matching my shoes
to my belt. It always surprises me how I can wear practically any print or colour combination and as long as I have on a matching belt and shoes I suddenly look pulled together!
“When you work
from home, seeing pretty dresses all around you when you wake up is a good
Do you have any customised items? A couple of years ago I bought a vintage bridesmaid dress with a mock turtleneck, long balloon sleeves and a noisy taffeta lining and turned it into a lovely little frock. A little snip on the sleeves, a new cotton lining and removing the constricting collar turned someone’s wedding nightmare into my dream dress.
motivator to actually get up and dressed!” says Kate. 02
details on a pair of vintage shoes. 03
Sitting pretty: polka
dot dress by Emily and Fin and mint shoes from Bait
Kate Gabrielle Illustrator Kate Gabrielle creates pen and ink artwork of stylish ﬂappers and bright, pun-inspired acrylic paintings, as well as sometimes dreaming up beautiful ﬂoral wallpaper and fabric prints, embroidery patterns, printable paper dolls and cards. Kate runs her blog at www.scathinglybrilliant.blogspot.co.uk where she showcases her love of pastels and all things sweet and fun. www.kategabrielle.com
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Handmade with love… 132 PAGES OF BEAUTIFUL WEDDING INSPIRATION, IDEAS AND CRAFTY MAKES
£7.99 from all major supermarkets and WHSmiths Or visit www.myfavouritemagazines.co.uk/stitch-and-craft-bookazines Or call 0844 848 2852 (UK)+44 1604 251 045 (international)
Itâ€™s forever springtime with these sweet shop, candy colours. Tough it up with metallics for an edgy look
Pastels with a grunge twist: hand dyed and studded denim jacket. www.debuts.etsy.com
Splash about in the puddles or wait for the sun in these jelly sandals. Wear with sparkly socks for added kook. www.office.co.uk
Add a touch of retro with this cute coral knitted bowtie necklace.
Valentina dressâ€Ś the name says it all. Glide out the door and feel
Pop out for coffee with this elderberry purse clutching all your pennies. www.notonthehighstreet.com/louisebrainwood
Dontcha want to dance down the street in these? Oxford ďŹ‚ats in
A sturdy mini satchel roomy enough to carry home some
the prettiest of pastel pinks. www.goldenponies.etsy.com
last-minute trim purchases. www.notonthehighstreet.com/bohemia
Awesome thrifting skills deserve a celebration. A spot of bunting does the trick nicely, we think!
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Fly the flag How do you turn a thrifted find into the perfect summer skirt? Just add bunting! Crafty girls, Sophie Appleby and Sarah Monks show us howâ€Ś
HOW TO MAKE… A BUNTING-TRIMMED SKIRT MATERIALS QA thrifted skirt QVintage fabric or pillowcase in three matching colours QBias binding tape QScissors QPins QPaper and pen (to create a template) QMatching thread QSewing machine
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Need a wardrobe update that’s just that little bit special? Look no further than your local thrift shop for must-have supplies to make this summer bunting skirt – it’ll be your sartorial saviour for Saturday morning market adventures or afternoon tea parties. You know us, any excuse! 01 Create a template of your desired bunting shape – make sure you leave a ¼” seam allowance.
02 Pin the template to the fabric, and cut out your pieces. For our design, for example, we made 15 flags, five in each colour: so we cut out 30 pieces – a back and a front. 03 Lay out your pieces, pairing each flag together with the right sides facing. 04 Pin the flags together. 05 Using your sewing machine, stitch around each flag, leaving the top open.
06 Clip the tips of the flags to ensure nice sharp points, and then turn out the right way. Iron each flag so it’s flat. 07 Position the flags all the way along the bias binding tape, equal widths apart and half way up the width of the tape. Fold the rest of the tape over to hide the top raw edge, then pin and sew each flag carefully on to the binding.
08 Once you’ve sewn all the flags onto the bias binding tape, you’ll end up with a little row of bunting. Pin it wherever you like on your favourite thrifted skirt. 09 Finally, it’s time to sew the bias binding part of the bunting to your skirt with a straight machine stitch or hand backstitch. Trim any excess binding edges. Iron the bunting and skirt, and it’s ready for a lovely summer’s outing – huzzah!
Sophie Appleby and Sarah Monks Aussie chicks, Sophie and Sarah first met over tea and crochet at their fave shop, Fine and Sunny, and have been crafting up a storm for Sophie’s blog, Her Library Adventures, ever since. They love rummaging through racks of vintage dresses and making things on Sarah’s sewing machine. www. herlibraryadventures.blogspot.com.au
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Tropical paradise Grab a cocktail and get into an exotic mood making this fab ‘n’ funky flamingo print t-shirt by Elena Rosa Brown
HOW TO MAKE… A PRINTED T-SHIRT MATERIALS QT-shirt QFreezer paper QCraft knife QFabric paint QSponge or paint brush QCutting mat
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This quick and easy technique is a great way to add a retro Floridian holiday vibe to your wardrobe, and who doesn’t want that? Cover a t-shirt with birds, a brazen message or any design you choose. These t-shirts make great gifts for the girls and it’s easy to create a personal pattern that you know they’ll love. Everyday freezer paper is the secret weapon, bonding to fabric when it’s ironed creating a solid (but removable) barrier. It’s easy screen printing! Go for a hot pink or bright turquoise and you’re good to go.
01 Start the project by cutting a piece of freezer paper big enough for your design. The freezer paper is going to act as a mask, covering up any places on your t-shirt you don’t want to paint. Place the shiny side face down with the matt side facing up. The shiny side is the ‘magic’ side that will stick to the t-shirt later. 02 Draw your design onto the matt side of the freezer paper. Simple designs with easy, geometrical outlines tend to work best as they can be easier to cut
out neatly, especially if you’re using a repeating design. Spend some time thinking of your design and practise drawing it, making it as easy as possible to cut out clearly. 03 Cut out your design using a sharp craft knife. The sections you cut out will be the sections that will eventually appear on your t-shirt, and the sections you leave will be the sections that act as a mask. 04 Place your freezer paper shiny side down onto your t-shirt. Spend some time working out the best placement. Set your iron to a
once you’ve got the hang of this nifty printing technique, no plain t-shirt need be plain again 06
medium setting (settings for silk or wool work well). Gently press down on the freezer paper with the hot iron. The heat from the iron will make the shiny side of the freezer paper stick to the fabric. Press all the way around your design and in the middle. Don’t worry if you make a mistake – just carefully peel the freezer paper off and apply again. 05 If you are using a repeating design it’s best to prepare and cut out multiples of the same design so you can paint everything at the
same time. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until you’re happy with the number and placement of your designs. 06 Using a sponge or brush, evenly sponge the fabric paint onto
the t-shirt, where the design is cut out. Leave to dry, and finish following the paint manufacture’s instructions. Your t-shirt is ready to teleport you to the Florida Keys!
Elena Rosa Brown Elena likes nothing better than trawling through vintage shops, dreaming up projects to share. She probably spends way too much time thinking about sewing, fabric and general merry making. Join her at www.randomlyhappyblog.com
I COULD DO THAT…
If we love one thing here at Mollie Makes it’s an easy blinged-up make. And what could be more glam than Geneva’s twist on a Burberry embellished trench? Don’t forget to turn up your collar to show it off! www.apairandasparediy.com
Super cute, high waisted and with a jaunty bowâ€Ś how totally ďŹ‚attering can you get? On-top-of-the-world shorts for all girls. www. blancheofarts.etsy.com
Give us a twirl Looking for a feminine retro update? Have a looksee at these glamourpuss bows
Fresh as your toothpaste, these zingy stripes are sure to pep up any DIY project on the go. www.raystitch.co.uk
Put the badass into your bow with a kitsch, rockabilly inspired
Pay homage to Holly Golightly in this cute dress with a cut-out
number. ‘Cos all that sparkles is good. www.alternatenormality.co.uk
back. Just right for an uptown girl. www.ﬂeetcollection.etsy.com
We love this ace, swish clutch bag. Cadge one for yourselves. www.notonthehighstreet.com/bridgetsaundersprintdesign
Lashings of glitter… we’ve got a toe-tapping Ginger Rogers
Fix a vintage dickie bow tie around your neck for a masculine
moment coming on. www.bubandbugstudio.etsy.com
accent. For gals and chaps. www.thepeopleshop.co.uk
take a bow
Get pin-up ready and revamp your fave heels with quick retro bow shoe clips by Hannah Read-Baldrey
HOW TO MAKE… A PRETTY SHOE BOW MATERIALS QPatterned fabric, 20 x 30cm (77/8 x 12”) Q2 shoe clips QVelvet ribbon, 15 x 1cm (6 x 3/8“) QGlue gun QSewing machine or needle and thread QRuler QFabric scissors
We asked crafty sewist Hannah Read-Baldrey to show us a nifty way to spice up our shoes in a modern retro style. Got an offcut of pretty vintage fabric you were saving for a little something? Perfect, grab some ribbon and a pair of shoe clips and get stitching. 01 Steam your fabric, then mark out two rectangles on the back, measuring 18 x 12cm (71/8 x 4¾“). Add a 1cm ( 3/8“) seam allowance top and bottom only, then cut out the two pieces. 02 Fold the rectangles in half width ways, inside out, then run a straight stitch all along the bottom line.
03 Then just turn the tube shape the right way around and press firmly at the top. 04 Fold each side into the centre, or so the middle point is 4.5cm each side. Overlap the ends slightly and then run a straight stitch all along the middle. 05 Turn over and pinch the middle
of the tube firmly so you can see the bow shape forming. 06 Add a dot of hot glue to the back, where the stitching is, and secure the piece of ribbon neatly around the middle. 07 Attach the shoe clip pieces over the ribbon seam at the back. Clip to your shoes and you’re ready!
HANNAH READ-BALDREY Hannah Read-Baldrey is a stylist, presenter and author. She has written three bestselling craft and cookery books Everything Alice, Everything Oz and Girls’ Night In. She works as a presenter and runs popular blog Couture Craft as well as the brilliant HRB-TV.com which is full of free ideas. www.hrb-tv.com
RETRO my favourite DIY
MY FAVOURITE DIY
Whimseybox founder, Alicia DiRago spots the best craft DIYs a mile off, so we asked her to share her fave: a jewelled sweatshirt like you’ve never seen
Alicia shared her how-
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transfers on your
steal her style. Bedeck
sweatshirt. I used two
yourself in just a few
different sizes of jewels
and alternated them.
Print your images
Flip over the transfer
onto iron-on transfer
pieces so they’re
paper. Take your own
printed side down.
photos of your favourite
I love this project because anyone can do it, it doesn’t take long and it makes a big impact! I find DIY inspiration everywhere but magazines and catalogues are my favourites, so when I saw the jewelled sweatshirt trend taking off a few months ago I knew I had to make a DIY version of it. But instead of sewing on the jewels I decided to print photorealistic versions of them on to iron-on transfer paper and apply them to the shirt. I’ve always been a city girl but last year I moved to Colorado so I’d say my style is going through an evolution right now – one part fashion-forward and one part relaxed mountain vibe! Inkjet-printable iron transfer paper is one of my DIY staples. I always keep a package or two on hand so I’m ready when inspiration strikes. In the past I’ve used it to customise a Hunger Games-themed tote bag and create some diamondaccent napkins before a holiday party. What’s next? I’m thinking of a faux jewelled canvas clutch using the leftover images I printed for this project. www.whimseybox.com, www.dismountcreative.com
to with us so you can
Iron the pieces. Use
jewellery so you can
a hot iron and press
go really matchy-
down firmly so they
with standard scissors
attach well. 06
Once it has cooled,
first, then trim with
peel the backing paper
away. That’s it!
leaving a small, even border.
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The team behind Mollie Makes brings you 132 pages of ideas for embellishing your clothes and making your own accessories, while showcasing the very best in vintage, bohemian, quirky and retro looks to help you get a style thatâ€™s all your own. Find easy-tofollow instructions to sew, crochet, stitch and paint everything from cute collars to cut-off denims. Plus, our fave fashionistas give us a tour of their wardrobes and share shopping secrets.