Salt Lake Magazine September October 2017

Page 140

138

dining guide

The Salt Lake Dining Guide is edited by

Mary Brown Malouf All restaurants listed in the Salt Lake Dining Guide have been vetted and chosen based on quality of food, service, ambience and overall dining experience.

Yoko Ramen

This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine. Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

cauliflower or a “Japanese Cubano,” pigs’ feet meat, pork belly, cheese, etc., in a pressed Mexican bun. But you can also order a plate of Japanese pickles—not to mention some dishes that might be considered bar bets in Utah, like pigs’ ears and pigs’ feet. We found the pork broth to be a little greasy and the Cubano a little mushy. But the late-night hours and vegetarian options should be popular in the city of salt, where too few options exist for either. 473 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-876-5267

GUIDE LEGEND

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State Liquor License

So I’m eating Japanese brioche in an Ogden restaurant owned by a Mongolian man named Sergei Oveson and his blond Utah wife Shani. Of course the place is called Ramen Haus and obviously, you should be prepared for some twists. Sergei and Shani met at Johnny Kwon’s late Naked Fish, an experience that ignited their passion for Japanese food and each other. They went on to work with at Tosh’s Ramen, the benchmark for ramen in SLC.

S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | S E P T / O C T 2 0 1 7

G

Handicap Accessible

L

Inexpensive, under $10

M

Moderate, $10–25

N

Expensive, $26–50

O

� Very Expensive, $50+ ININ

G

Honey Toast at Ramen Haus

Before long the couple had their ramen restaurant dream firmly in mind. They settled in Ogden where a landlord offered to build a kitchen for them. The result is a warmly minimalist space—the Oveson’s built the yellow-pine tables and benches themselves—cheerfully lit by midcentury-style chandeliers and centered with an open kitchen. “I don’t like to be stuck in the back,” says Sergei. Ramen Haus has no liquor license but we loved the cold barley tea and the menu offered surprise after surprise. Lilly mushrooms, pretty little enoki mushrooms, in a light soy sauce. Housemade kimchi. Gorgeous spicy pork ramen in a 13-hour broth (beef and vegetarian versions also available) and rice bowls if you’re not a noodle lover. The salmon and avocado poke with purple rice was improved by Sergei’s favorite sriracha blend made by Tabasco. Japanese brioche? It’s the basis for a dessert called honey toast—thrillingly new to me. Shani says she and Sunny Tsogbadrakh (acclaimed former sushi chef at Naked Fish) used to drive to Las Vegas just to eat honey toast at Ichiza. “I said if I ever opened a restaurant I’d serve honey toast,” she says. The brioche was toasted lightly, filled with scoops of vanilla ice cream and drizzled with honey. I’m glad I only have to drive to Ogden to eat it. And it makes me wish ramen Haus was open for breakfast. 2550 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-393-0000.

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RAMEN HAUS

2A 017D WAR

2016 Salt Lake magazine Dining Award Winner

HAofLL

FA M E Dining Award Hall Of Fame Winner

Quintessential Utah


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