dining guide roasted meats. Both goat and sami, a kibbehlike mixture of ground lamb and lentils, are available in several styles. 3142 S. Highland Dr., SLC, 801-466-3504. EGM
Royal India Northern Indian tikka masalas
PHOTO LYDIA MARTINEZ
and Southern Indian dosas allow diners to enjoy the full range of Indian cuisine. 10263 S. 1300 East, Sandy, 801-572-6123; 55 N. Main St., Bountiful, 801-292-1835. EGL – M
FARM TO TABLE
Good Morning Bubble and Brown Morning Shop by Lydia Martinez The process of making caramel involves carefully heating sugar and water together until it bubbles and then browns. Done right, it is complex and deep and rich. (Done wrong, it’s a sweet, black enamel lining your saucepan.) The same care goes into Chef Andrew Scott Young’s Bubble & Brown Bakery, which borrows its name directly from the artistry that goes into a good batch of caramel. And like caramel, Young’s flavors are complex and deep and rich. Young has made a name for himself at the local markets with his scones and tarts since 2014. In late spring of this year, Bubble & Brown Bakery opened a new morning shop in the lower level of Church & State in downtown Salt Lake City. The concept of a morning shop is new to Utah, but the idea is obvious. Morning is the most popular time for pastries and baked goods. “Though the convenience of all-day bakeries is nice, we don’t bake stuff all day long,” Young says. “We bake once in the morning for our entire day (which ends at 1 p.m.) and we close when we consider it to be too old to enjoy or when we sell out—I’m not here to sell you day-old, or even later-that-day-old pastries.” Young’s use of fresh, seasonal, non-GMO, pesticide-free, local-whenever-possible produce also sets Bubble & Brown apart from the Utah pastry pack. He partners with local growers, so you’ll find fruit and vegetables from Riley’s Farm Fresh, 3 Squares Produce and Larsen’s Farms in everything from savory scones and tarts to rustic cakes and crumbles. The menu shifts according to what produce is at its peak. “If I’m not happy with a strawberry’s natural sweetness then I’m not going to serve it. Others may dress it up with sugar and other flavors, but we don’t use extra sugar as a flavor. Never have. Never will,” says Young. Bubble & Brown is a pastry frontrunner because natural flavors do all the talking. One tart starts with local peaches, halved and roasted at a high temperature to concentrate their natural sugars and caramelize their edges. Peeled, sliced, tossed with fresh thyme, sea salt and cardamom, they are nestled in a buttery tart shell. Simple. No extra sugar needed. “It’s about making something I know someone will enjoy, without guilt, because it tastes good, and it’s okay to eat things that taste good,” says Young. “I’ve been baking since around the age of 11. My grandmother Jean is an amazing baker and my grandfather Raul was a fantastic cook—I grew up surrounded by food made from the heart, and it’s their passion that drives me.” 370 S. 300 East, SLC, 385-212-4998, bubbleandbrownbakery.com
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Saffron Valley East India Cafe Lavanya Mahate has imported her style of Indian cooking from South Jordan to SLC. Besides terrific lunch and dinner menus, East Indian Cafe offers regular celebrations of specialties like Indian street food or kebabs. Stay tuned. 26 East St., SLC, 801-203-3325. EGM – N Saffron Valley Highlighting South Indian street food, one of the glories of subcontinental cuisine, Lavanya Mahate’s restaurant is a cultural as well as culinary center, offering cooking classes, specialty groceries and celebration as well as great food. 1098 W. South Jordan Parkway, South Jordan, 801-438-4823. GL – M Spice Bistro India meets the Rat Pack in this restaurant, but the food is all subcontintental soul: spicy curries, Nepalese momos, chicken chili, goat and lots of vegetarian options. A number of American dishes are on the menu, too. 6121 S. Highland Dr., 801-930-9855. EGM–N Tandoor Indian Grill Delicious salmon
tandoori, sizzling on a plate with onions and peppers like fajitas, is mysteriously not overcooked. Friendly service. 733 E. 3300 South, SLC, 801-833-0994. EGL – M
ITALIAN & PIZZA
Arella’s Chic pizza in Bountiful. Arella’s
pies appeal to pizza purists, traditionalists and adventurers, with wood-fired crusts and toppings that range from pear to jalapeño. 535 W. 400 North, Bountiful, 801-294-8800. EGL
Café Trio Pizzas from the wood-fired brick
oven are wonderful. One of the city’s premier and perennial lunch spots; in Cottonwood, the brunch is especially popular. Be sure to check out the new big flavor small plates menu. 680 S. 900 East, SLC, 801-533-TRIO; 6405 S. 3000 East, Cottonwood, 801-944-8476. EGM
Caffé Molise The menu is limited, but ex-
cellent. Our penne al caprino tasted as if it had been tossed on the way to our table. The spacious patio is a warm weather delight and the wine list rocks. Order the custom house wine. 55 W. 100 South, SLC, 801-364-8833. EGM
Caffé Molise BTG A sibling of Caffe Molise, BTG is really a wine bar. Because the food comes from Caffe Molise’s kitchen, we’re listing it here. The draw, though, is the selection of more than 50 wines by the glass