on the table
TOSHIO SEKIKAWA, OWNER, TOSH’S RAMEN In line with the Japanese aesthetic—wabi (transient beauty), sabi (the beauty of natural patina), and yūgen (profound subtlety)—the simplicity of this bowl of soup is belied by the huge amount of time it takes to prepare it—Sekikawa’s broths brew for 36 hours. Even though all but one of them are pork-based, the long simmer and skimming means that the flavor is clean, deriving its umami from more than the animal fat. Sekikawa serves food other than ramen but it is his ramen that causes hungry customers to wait in line and only complain about it the first time.
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M M AY / J U N E 2 0 1 6
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