Salt Lake Magazine May June 2017

Page 130

128

dining guide

The Salt Lake Dining Guide is edited by

Mary Brown Malouf All restaurants listed in the Salt Lake Dining Guide have been vetted and chosen based on quality of food, service, ambience and overall dining experience. This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine.

S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | M A Y / J U N E 2 0 1 7

GUIDE LEGEND

E

State Liquor License

G

Handicap Accessible

L

Inexpensive, under $10

M

Moderate, $10–25

N

Expensive, $26–50

O D

� Very Expensive, $50+ ININ

G

American cuisine anymore than there’s a single Italian cuisine. All this to welcome the chefs, cooks and historians who are now recovering indigenous cuisine. Chef Walter Whitewater (Diné, born in Arizona) and food scholar Lois Frank founded Red Mesa in Santa Fe to showcase Native American foods. Here in Utah, Black Sheep owner Bleu Adams and her brother, Chef Mark Daniel Mason, have started easing more Native American dishes onto their Provo restaurant’s menu and the menu at Black Sheep at Epic Brewing in Sugarhouse. “We have to move slowly,” says Adams, whose mother is an artist and Native

throughout the menu; burgers are made with bison and nanniskadii, aka Navajo flatbread, is a side option. The hog-jowl tacos in blue corn tortillas are a favorite and, of course, everyone loves Navajo tacos, braised green chile pork or red chile beef on Navajo fry bread—a food that is controversial among Native American chefs. Theirs is a culinary history that includes a lot of dire hunger. “When you have enough to eat, then you can worry about how it tastes,” says Adams. Fry bread was invented by Navajo mothers desperate to feed their families on the Long Walk in the 19th century, when the government forced Native Americans to leave their home in Arizona and relocate to New Mexico. Consequently, fry bread is seen by many Native American American activist. (A team from chefs as a symbol of oppression. It’s Black Sheep travelled to North made of white flour, sugar and Dakota to support the Standing Rock lard—white man’s food. protest.) “This is a conservative town Bleu Adams and we need to teach as disagrees. She sees fry we go.” WHEN YOU HAVE bread as an example of Black Sheep serves a contemporary mix of ENOUGH TO EAT, Native American adaptability. “We’re cuisines with THEN YOU CAN still adapting,” she Southwestern and Native American touches— WORRY ABOUT says, citing her work on IndigeHub, a business posole in the ramen, HOW IT TASTES incubator in Window smoked salt on the Rock that will supply caprese salad, blue-corn –BLEU ADAMS computers, printers, grits and cotija with the workspaces and seminars to foster shrimp. One or all of the New entrepreneurs on the reservation. 19 N. World’s “three sisters,” corn, beans University Ave, Provo, 801-607-2485 and squash, are prevalent

Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.

2A 017D WAR

2016 Salt Lake magazine Dining Award Winner

HAofLL

FA M E Dining Award Hall Of Fame Winner

Quintessential Utah


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