village focus
Sai Keng
Rooftop view of Sai Keng
Yasmin Hingun discovers rural tranquility in this village by Three Fathoms Cove Three Fathoms Cove
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f you were to stand on the rooftop of a Sai Keng village house, you would be granted a lovely sight. Beyond the sprawl of houses that have popped up through the years is a gentle vista of Three Fathoms Cove backdropped by the hills of Sai Kung West Country Park. Sai Keng, which translates into ‘Western Path’, is one of the Shap Sze Heung (fourteen townships), villages which are scattered along the winding edge of Sai Sha Road. This village sits on a slight incline, as the hillside slopes downward from Sai Sha Road until it meets the water’s edge. As such, a staircase which leads into the village has been built near the Sai Keng bus stop (which serves bus 299x, 99 and minibus 807B). Halfway down these stairs I met up with a resident who had promised to show me around, and who also happens to belong to one of Sai Keng’s Heung Yee Kuk families. As we walked through the village, he explained that back in his grandfather’s time
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most of the land here was marshy paddyfield. A quick glance suggests development has clearly occurred, but here and there are giveaways of a longer history. Among the newer cuboid homes is a dilapidated house, blackened with age. As unappealing as that sounds, the structure is an architectural curiosity upon closer inspection. The front face of this ruin has been knocked down, so you can peek inside to see rustic wood rafters and the underside of the tiles making up the traditional Lingnan roof. Perhaps one day the villager who owns the property will replace the house with a more habitable structure. Nearby is a Taoist shrine, where the Heung Yee Kuk families pray for the wellbeing of the village. A few minutes walk away is the Sai Keng town hall, identifiable by its carved wooden doors and a wide open space with a small stage. Here, the village holds community dinners during festivals such as Chinese New Year. Along Sai Keng’s south-eastern edge you will find a small path leading away from the houses. Following it as we did, you will cross Sai Keng Stream, which trickles down from Ma On Shan. We suddenly ran into a herd of cows after passing the stream, a lively reminder of the rural environment that village residents here enjoy. The little path continues onwards into the trees, tracing the hairpin bend of Three Fathom Cove’s shoreline, where mangroves grow in
abundance. The large hills that wrap around the inlet were a sight for sore eyes, and to the Ma On Shan side you can also catch glimpses of the distinctively shaped Ngau Ngak Shan (the Hunchbacks), Hong Kong’s ninth largest hill. Call me anti-social, but I most loved how there was no one else in sight throughout our walk, save a couple of fishermen in the distance out on the cove. Although the path snakes out of Sai Keng, it is well worn by many a resident looking to walk their dog or go for a stroll. Whether you are an avid nature lover, or merely want some peace and quiet, Sai Keng is bound to charm you. The village’s hints of history and its tranquil views from the cove make it a prime example of Hong Kong’s less trumpeted but much loved rural side. Want to be village correspondent? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
Village home with traditional Lingnan roof