“THERE IS CERTAINLY NO ABSOLUTE STANDARD OF BEAUTY. THAT PRECISELY IS WHAT MAKES ITS PURSUIT SO INTERESTING...
”
As inspiring as 20thcentury liberalist John Kenneth Galbraith’s quote is, I believe this point of view has become untrue in the modern day. Despite everyone promoting individuality, and the overused “be true to yourself”, one can’t help but see the irony that such phrases of empowerment are usually expressed to promote another trend to those that the phrase condemns. Even those who call out this huge double standard and vehemently condemn those who follow the herd, are no better for it seems that in modern society everyone aims for self-improvement, and will change to meet the expectations required to be seen as who they want to be. Due to my personal fascination, I decided to focus my A2 coursework project on the theme of “ASPECTS OF BEAUTY IN TODAY’S SOCIETY” and started thinking of specifics during the summer break, as I was strongly advised in doing. FOOTNOTE 2 “ASPECTS OF BEAUTY IN TODAY’S SOCIETY” was inspired by last year’s final mini-project; having completed AS, we were free to explore any concepts we might find interesting. Encouraged by what I had come across, I decided to look at THE IMPACT OF CONSUMERISM IN SOCIETY1, which led to exploring advertising. Now that I look back, I see that both the A2 and AS projects occurred due to my fascination of contrasting opinions: mainly, global condemnation of it as an evil brain washing source and appreciation and acceptance of it as a guide to achieve self-betterment and lead a life of glamour. The looking up of advertisements led me to SUB-ADVERTISING2 and showed me that in comparison to the past
“
THERE IS A DISTINCT RISE IN THE QUALITY, complexity and absurdity of today’s
advertisements. As the population has become more accustomed and desensitized to clever marketing schemes the results have been raised to the extent that an advertisement might be produced with similar resources and cinematography as an actual movie” 3
From then on, the project gradually became more about the relationship between advertising and fashion as well as looking up the changing role of commercial photography [explored in Andy Grundberg’s essay: PHOTOGRAPHY CHANGING PHOTOGRAPHY] 4, and in turn led to an exploration of the self and a growing obsession with STYLISTIC PERFECTION5.
1
: http://photomagraphy.tumblr.com/post/49801236618/the-many-faces-of-consumerism
2
http://photomagraphy.tumblr.com/post/49455789454/subadvertising-riveting-to-the-original-idea
3
: http://photomagraphy.tumblr.com/post/49884123396/advertisements
4
http://photomagraphy.tumblr.com/post/50332771329/reference-personal-thoughts-and-connections
5
http://photomagraphy.tumblr.com/post/49927872092/personal-thoughts-on-stylistic-perfection
FOOTNOTE 4
The project I’d undertaken was too ambitious to be completed in time period given, but looking back on it now I see it was an indispensable learning point and an opener to the intricacy expected in Year 13. Moreover, having to end it at an unfinished point bothered me, and the thought of going back to it is what led me to choose “ASPECTS OF BEAUTY IN TODAY’S SOCIETY” as a theme for A2. FOOTNOTE 7
Despite having an inkling that I wanted to explore different concepts of beauty, the initial stages of the project6 are what moulded and narrowed down the path I wanted to follow. While I was determined to produce more professional high-sheen photographs, become more proficient in beauty-editing techniques such as airbrushing, and devote an area to fashion photography, I was unaware how to link all of these things together in a way that would be coherent and develop organically. The starter task we were set had a lot to do with shaping the direction. Looking at photography history and the first uses of the camera, the only pre-requisite was that the resulting piece had to show objectivity/ subjectivity or a mixture of both. 7 The way I looked at this was in relation to self-improvement, while being inspired by the original-science led use of photography. FOOTNOTE 9
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I DECIDED TO DO A “PASSIVE” SELF PORTRAIT IN
THE STYLE OF DR. HUGH WELCH DIAMOND, trying to show how people present a groomed, socially acceptable side to them while still showing the flaws and imperfections everyone so desperately tries to hide. I linked this with Sir Francis Galton’s focus on features, and did a secondary outcome based on exploring facial expressions.”
The following works was then inspired by contextual-studies in regards to image alteration; in relation to time: [‘Is image alteration and olde concept?’8]; in traditional use [‘Retratos Pintados’9]; in relation to moral
6
Known as INITIAL EXPLORATION http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/60775893900/artist-research-diamond-and-galton 8 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/62802055857/contextual-study-is-the-use-of-imagealteration-an 9 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/62708644820/contextual-study-retratos-pintados 7
FOOTNOTE 10
messages [Daniele Buetti10] and for art’s sake [Alana Dee Haynes11]. Furthermore, I looked studied and explored technicalities which I was unaware of (White Balance, Airbrushing, and the Liquify Tool in PS12) to be able to create good portraits and competent fashion photography. By the end of these initial explorations I had a plan formed on the direction I had to go in. FOOTNOTE 12
“
THE WORK UP TO THIS POINT HAS BEEN
LOOSELY BASED IN PORTRAYALS OF BEAUTY, in this i’ve looked at today’s set standards what beauty ‘should be’ and how media portrayals have controlled/ altered our view of what is desirable. In relation I’ve looked at the technical side in post production and how editing programmes like PhotoShop are key in transforming people to appease the set standards. This has been countered by contextual links that challenge this view or show that this way of thinking has been used since the 16th century13. Overall the work I’ve done in these few weeks has become more experimental than I imagined, yet this has opened up different and counter- interpretations…”
Thus, the stages of practical work were split into three parts: the first, the aforementioned initial explorations; second, elements of advertising; and thirdly, “articles and mock-ups”. While parts Two and Three were done through planning, “Initial Explorations” was a time of total experimentation. Lacking the pressures of specifics meant that I had total creative control and was, for a time, free from shepherding my work to tie in with a final objective. FOOTNOTE 13 This allowed me to explore different contextual views on the matter, notably the Brazilian tradition of Retratos Pintados. The reason behind the practice was a nostalgic and positive way of honouring the dead and remembering loved ones, and contrasted with the view that had surfaced through AS influence. Similarly, Alana Dee Haynes’ practice of decorative illustration on top of photographs was different to my own style of working. Although I appreciated the beauty in Alana Dee Haynes’ work, I made my own14 FOOTNOTE 14 mark clear in my interpretations . 10
http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/63493854070/cont-moving-away-from-the-decorativework-of 11 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/65904002650/cont-although-i-appreciate-the-beautyin-alana 12 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/61491368048/cont-although-i-had-dabbled-in-beauty 13 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/62927751570/cont-i-was-intrigued-by-the-way-thisimage 14 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/65904002650/cont-although-i-appreciate-the-beautyin-alana
The inspiration behind Daniele Buetti’s work was key in transitioning to the second part of the project. The clashing contrast between the original image and Buetti’s editing was a nod to dark satire and appealing in itself, but what really drew me in was the not-so-hidden allegory.
“
ALTHOUGH THE VULNERABILITY OF MODELS AND THE DESTRUCTIVE EFFECT BEAUTY CAN HAVE IF IT TURNS TO AN OBSESSION are issues that have been thoroughly explored by all kinds of
artists, it still remains a relevant issue, even more so than 30 years ago (when it became a common theme for photographers to target). There seems to be a unorthodox understanding between the beauty industry and its consumers; the portrayal of its products and what they offer is little more than constructed outcomes and scenarios to promote the company or brand. Irregardless to this, and as obvious as the lie might appear to the public, it remains a pleasant possibility that could potentially be achieved, however remote, thus fueling the never ending cycle and hope that happiness might be reached in materialistic gain.”
In turn his work is, by mutual influence of Tableau photographers like Gregory Crewdson, what led me to find Grace Coddington.
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THERE IS SOMETHING TO BE ADMIRED ABOUT THE THEATRICALITY AND WHIMSICAL FARCE
THAT HIGH END MAGAZINES EMPLOY, the most well known of these being Vogue’s annual feature in each year’s September Issue (being the first issue of the year), the shoot always being led and supervised by Vogue’s creative director Grace Coddington since her appointment to the magazine. It is her vision and tenacity that have produced breath-taking series that seem taken straight out of their own works; from Alice in Wonderland, to Dorothy in Oz, to a group of flappers that belong both in their contemporary world and the 21st century. There is a similarity to the work of Gregory Crewdson; both are part of the extremely constructed type of tableau photography, and have the same fairy tale effect no matter how realistic they might try to seem.”
The work by Grace Coddington was the biggest influence in the direction of the project 15. Seeing her FOOTNOTE 14 work, I saw there could be a link between conceptual photography and fashion/ magazine creation. By the end of the initial explorations I had a plan to follow:
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THE BASIS OF THE MAGAZINE I WANT TO DO CAN BE SUMMARISED INTO THESE KEY POINTS;
• • • •
15
A main article that will serve as a feature. One secondary article, which will focus on different perceptions of beauty. Depending on the flow and time available, an additional article would also be done, which would link both the feature and the secondary article in some way. I also want to do a series quite a few advertisements to fill the bulk of the magazine, which is a key feature I’ve seen in issues of Vogue and the like. This portrayal is key as I want to explore perceptions of beauty, and set it out in a highsheen, stylistically professional manner.”
http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/85120812108/contextual-study-feature-photography
The next part of the project was dedicated to advertising, which was going to take up a considerable bulk in the final product. The work of organisations like Adbusters 16 had tempted me to do this part of the project as satire:
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WITH THIS IN MIND, I THOUGHT DOING THIS AS PARODIES OF COMMON ADVERTISEMENTS
EVERYONE HAD SEEN; it would serve to add humour to the project, while making fun of the key aspects that make them so recognisable.”
I decided against this in the end, as I thought it too conflicting with the overall gist of the magazine. Despite being an amateur in media-editing, I wanted the portrayal of the final product to be as realistic as possible. In the end, I decided to have the first few elements of the magazine as a copy of original publications: both in layout and in content. The editor’s note and first article have followed this, and have no ulterior motive behind this, except to portray the one dimensional characteristics I feel these magazines have. The contrast, therefore, lied within the Feature article. While I had always intended to document someone’s style, my first ideas for the feature were less subtle, and more predictable. My first choices were following someone from the alternative culture, but in the end, anyone who fits into the “punk”, “goth” or “alternative”, is still following a trend, albeit a different one.
FOOTNOTE 16
The Old Dernier Crí17 was a shutout to personal style, portraying individuality as more than a fashion choice. For this part I documented an acquaintance of mine who was one of those people that, while appreciated fashion, had developed her own appearance and manipulated her space to reflect her personality. In conclusion, I see that the way I started this project was too broad, and the thought of exploring all I see that the aim of exploring all “ASPECTS OF BEAUTY IN TODAY’S SOCIETY” was too broad a theme for the time given. While I had to compromise, having to narrow the direction down was useful as it allowed me to focus better on specifics, different points of view and stances (as was seen in the exploration part of FOOTNOTE 18 the coursework). The resolution of presenting the outcome as a publication is what made me look at the technical side of photography and developed FOOTNOTE 16
16
http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/85119200093/artist-research-adbusters http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/85514739513/the-cover-photographs-in-featuresarticles-are-the 17
my understanding on indispensible tools like airbrushing, and the importance of white balance, and extended prior knowledge in Photoshop. 18 The project was also the first encounter I had with publication software like InDesign, and as someone who is interested in working in an editorial position in a magazine I found this was a necessary dose of reality and showed me just how time-consuming and amount of work goes into it – especially in adding typography 19. Due to the direction I want to take, I am thankful that I spent so much time exploring technicalities, not only because this enabled me to get professional looking shots done more efficiently and quickly, but because it has served to improve my photography skills and change the way I take photos for the better. FOOTNOTE 19
18
http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/61670897485/contextual-study-airbrushing-and-itsimpact-in-todays 19 http://photomagraphytales.tumblr.com/post/69504527919/article-mock-up-having-taken-theprevious