KIDARCHY TAKES OVER
THE KIDS ARE IN CHARGE AND READY TO SHAKE THINGS UP

TRAVEL EVENTS
skiing is not for everybody, trust us
Cover Photo: Krakkaveldi took over the April 2023 issue of the Grapevine and infused it with their over-thetop creativity and intelligence. For the cover, some of the young contributors
were photographed inside AlĂŸingi â an institution that could benefit from their fresh ideas.
Photographer: Kazuma Takigawa ArndĂs Ey Stylist Assistant: Magnea BirgisStylist:
6: Wonât somebody think of the cats!?

8: The Krakkaveldi kids go to Bessastaðir
10: This is what happens when kids are empowered
16: This is what'll happen when kids take over AlĂŸingi

28: An adult went cross-country skiing and fell (a lot)

32: This just in: McDonaldâs is better than Metro
EDITORIAL
When I heard Krakkaveldi was going to take over Grapevineâs April issue, I thought: âOkay, am I really going to write articles for a paper?! Thatâs crazy and really exciting!â
At first, I was a bit stressed that my interview questions werenât good enough, but then it all turned out well, and I think our articles are actually really good!
What Krakkaveldi is writing about is all very different and exciting. A few kids are writing about Eurovision, some are writing about mental health, but no matter the subject, they are all very fun and thoughtful.
Itâs important that kids get to learn and write about things they find interesting. It matters to us that people read and respect our articles and thoughts, and that they listen when we say something needs to change.
If I was an adult, I would find kids writing the articles way more interesting and readable than if an adult had written them. The bottom line is this: Krakkaveldi is the best and will rule the world one day. You adults just wait till you read our articles, we are amazing!
Brynja Steinunn Helgesson Danielsen, 12, Co-Editor in ChiefISSUE 4, 2023 A local favourite for over 20 years BOOK YOUR TABLE TAPASBARINN | Vesturgata 3B | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is


I didnât know what to expect when Iryna showed up at the office with an interesting new haircut and pitched the idea of a group of kids writing for the Grapevine. As a mom of two amazing kids, I know just how creative younger humans can be â itâs unfortunately a trait thatâs dulled in some of us as we transition into adulthood and are fooled into believing weâve outgrown fun and play and imagination.
But the ideas the Krakkaveldi kids brought to their first pitch meeting at the Grapevine werenât just creative or fun â they were inspiring. Here was a group of 8- to 15-year-olds wanting to interview the president (page 8-9), draft a manifesto for taking over AlĂŸingi (page 16-17), shine a

spotlight on youth mental health (page 7) and learn about the prison system (page 38). Plus, interview a whole bunch of their favourite actors and singers. Ideas poured out of them that were far more deep than anything I was thinking about at their age.
It was inspiring. It is inspiring
And I hope thatâs what you, dear reader, will take from this issue. If the kids of today are the leaders of tomorrow, then the world is in very good hands. It would serve us well to listen to them more now.
Experience Icelandic Bathing Culture
Minutes from the City Centre

ĂĂłrhallsdĂłttir
2 Ceramic â AldĂs BĂĄra EinarsdĂłttir

3 Tarot candle â ĂĂłrunn ĂrnadĂłttir

4 Pillow case â SignĂœ ĂĂłrhallsdĂłttir

A great selection of design and local craft

Birgir Logi Barkarson is 12 (about to be 13 in May). He goes to the Waldorf School SĂłlstafir. Heâs been a member of Krakkaveldi from the start in 2018. Birgir Logi has been playing the piano since he was seven. Right now he is taking a comic book course which he enjoys a lot. His favourite pastime is playing darts and hanging out with his family and friends. When he grows up he wants to be an actor.

BenĂłnĂœ Ingi Ăorsteinsson is 12-years old. He goes to EngjaskĂłli in Grafarvogur. He is interested in everything about acting â and now journalism as well. He would like to be a professional golfer when he grows up. He is now practising golfing quite a lot, and would like to interview a famous golfer, like Viktor Hovland from Norway, a professional golfer and Scandinaviaâs pride!
Brynja Steinunn Helgesson Danielsen is 12 years old. Sheâs been a part of Krakkaveldi since she was 8 years old. Her hobbies include reading, drawing and hanging out with her friends. She also enjoys watching anime and reading true crime and horror.

Eldlilja Kaja HeimisdĂłttir is 15-years old. She has been a part of Krakkaveldiâs activities since she was 10. She enjoys theatre and film, and experiencing adventure. Her after-school activities include practising taekwondo.
Sóley Hulda Nielsen Viðarsdóttir is a 8-year-old student in the third grade in Langholtsskóli. Her interests include acting, Krakkaveldi, and playing video games. She loves baking, doing crafts, travelling, babysitting and doing fun stuff. Her favourite colour is yellow, and she wants to be an interior architect and an actress when she grows up.
Jakob Friðrik Jakobsson is 11 years old and has two homes, one in Reykjavik and one in Kópavogur. He loves teddy bears, Pokémon, computers and fashion. He is going to be a lawyer and a K9 cop and likes his privacy. He dislikes crowds and noise. His favourite shop is Build a Bear and favourite city is London.
C o n t r i b u t o r s
SkĂłlavörðustĂgur 7
SkĂłlavörðustĂgur 12
Kringlan
Harpa
Flugstöð Leifs EirĂkssonar
JakobĂna LĂła SverrisdĂłttir is a 13-yearold Eurovision fan. She goes to HĂĄteigsskĂłli and enjoys drawing, singing and sleeping in. Her favourite colour is zaffre (google it) and she canât possibly decide what she wants to be when she grows up.

NĂna MarĂn AndradĂłttir is a 12-yearold student at HĂĄteigsskĂłli. Sheâs a huge Eurovision fan and often hosts Eurovision parties with her cousin. NĂnaâs hobbies are reading, quizzes, and arts and crafts. Ninaâs favourite Eurovision songs this year (other than Iceland, of course) are âQueen of Kingsâ (NO) and âĂvidemmentâ (FR).
MagnĂșs Sigurður JĂłnasson always goes by the name Maggi. He is 14 years old and is a student at HĂĄteigsskĂłli. He likes acting, films and TV. He is interested in politics and comics.


Margrét Aðalgeirsdóttir will be 9 in October. She goes to Langholtsskóli and plays the clarinet. She also practises hip hop dance and acting. When she grows up she wants to be an actress. She joined Krakkaveldi in 2022 and loves all the fun things she can do with Krakkaveldi.

Yrsa RĂșn GunnarsdĂłttir is an 11-year-old student at AusturbĂŠjarskĂłli. When she grows up, she wants to get into Harvard and be a university professor of psychology. She plays basketball and is a Scout. Sheâs also in a band called âSPOTLIGHT.â These days her biggest hobby is baking cookies. Borghildur Lukka KolbeinsdĂłttir is 8-years old and goes to LangholtsskĂłli. She loves to read AndrĂ©s Ănd and play with her sister. She does not love chocolate but loves to live life. In the future she would like to be a politician or a heart surgeon.
PODCAST & LISTINGS Rex Beckett

EDITORIAL INTERN Gitte Van der Meersch

SALES DIRECTORS Aðalsteinn Jörundsson adalsteinn@grapevine.is

S TORE MANAGER Helgi ĂĂłr Harðarson helgi@grapevine.is
FO UNDERS AldĂs PĂĄlsdĂłttir

Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Hörður Kristbjörnsson
GunnarsdĂłttir

PHOTOGRAPHERS Joana Fontinha
Gitte Van der Meersch Kazuma Takigawa

whole or in part without the written permission of
the publishers. The ReykjavĂk Grapevine is distributed in and around ReykjavĂk and at key locations along Iceland's route 1. It is also available at all major tourist attractions and information centres around the country. The Grapevine is an independent publication. You may not agree with what we print, but at least our hot takes aren't paid for. None of our editorial is directed or influenced by sponsors or advertisers, and all opinions expressed are the writer's own.
N ATURALLY DELICIO US
ICELANDIC
LAMB â BEYOND COMPARE
The taste of Icelandic lamb is unrivaled. Our pure bred lambs graze free in the pristine wilderness of Iceland, eating luscious green grass, berries and wild herbs such as red clover, Arctic thyme, sedge, willow, thrift and angelica. The end result is a tender ne-textured meat, infused with the avours of nature.
Icelandic lamb is a dining experience beyond compare.

Giving The Cats Of ReykjavĂk A Chance
Meet the organisation looking after lost pets and cats in need of new homes
Concerned about the number of cats looking for new homes throughout the capital area, Krakkaveldi journalist Eldlilja turned to Hanna Evensen at Kattholt, the Icelandic Cat Protection Society, for the inside scoop on their work rehoming cats and socialising strays.

Did the number of cats at Kattholt increase since the pandemic?
Yes, the number of cats has increased. After COVID, people who had gotten a cat hadnât thought about what happens when they would start travelling or working again. You still have to take care of the cat and love it. Cats often come to us heartbroken and have difficulty trusting humans again. Itâs very sad to witness.
What happens when a pregnant cat comes in?
We find the perfect foster homes for pregnant females, where they can have their kittens in peace and quiet. The fostering time is up to four months and Kattholt provides everything the
mom cat and kittens need. Then, when the kittens are big enough â about 12 weeks old â they come back to us so we can find the perfect home for them.
How many cats usually stay in Kattholt?
Our operations are twofold. We have the refuge and we have the cat hotel. If all the spaces are full, itâs around 100 cats.
Do you neuter all cats that come in?
If a cat is found or brought to us unneutered, then we neuter it before it goes to a new home. We also deworm, vaccinate, microchip and inspect the cats for any health issues. We want the cats to be as prepared as possible for their new homes.
When a lost cat is brought to Kattholt, does the owner need to pay to get it back?
If a cat is presumed lost and brought to us, we scan its microchip. If the cat is chipped, we call the owner and let them know itâs here. If they know their cat is here but they donât pick it up right away weâll charge a facility fee of 1.500 ISK per day. Most of the time, people pick up their cat before the day is over.
How do you handle feral cats?
All cats deserve opportunity, patience and time. Thatâs what a feral cat
receives when it comes to Kattholt. We need to be very patient and never give up. We start by chatting to the cat every day, introducing our voices, trying to maintain eye contact and blinking slowly to demonstrate that it can trust us. Then we try feeding the cat by hand. When it feels comfortable doing that, we can start petting it slowly. This process can take many months.
How do you handle kittens?
The kittens that come to us get the same treatment as adult cats. We start by deworming, microchipping and inspecting them for health issues. Then, when the kitten gets a new home, it goes home with an appointment to be spayed or neutered when it reaches the appropriate age and weight.
How do you finance the operations?
We finance the work with an annual fee to KattavinafĂ©lag Ăslands, which is 3.500 ISK every year. We also receive income from the cat hotel. Then thereâs also lovely people out there who support us monthly, for example with direct deposits or by bringing us food, litter or dens. We couldnât operate without the kindness of the people around us.
The Ătlendingurâs Guide To Getting Shit Done
Are you ready to be an Ăslendingur?


Words: Catharine Fulton Images: Art Bicnick
Have you lived in Iceland for seven consecutive years*? Then, my fellow immigrant, you may be interested in Icelandic citizenship.




Back in my day, would-be citizens had to show up in person to that bureaucratic abyss known as ĂtlendingastĂłfnun, but it turns out they like seeing us about as much as we like seeing them, so the process has been digitised.** Just head to UTL.is and click âRĂkisborgararĂ©tturâ â or switch to English and click âIcelandic Citizenship.â Weâre not here to judge.
Youâll need a documents at the ready: a copy of your current passport, a certificate of your legal registration in Iceland, an Icelandic language test certificate, foreign criminal record certificates,*** 12 months of payslips, three years of tax returns, and a certificate from your municipality confirming you havenât received financial assistance.
Most of those things are easy enough to obtain. You presumably have a passport on hand, proof of your legal registration can be obtained on Skra.is and the tax returns from RSK.is. For the language test, contact MĂmir to find out when theyâre holding sessions. As for the criminal record checks, thatâs a bigger headache the more countries youâve lived in â youâll need one from everywhere you lived in since you were 15.
Once you have those documents and 27.000 ISK at the ready, complete the online application form and settle in for the long wait. In six to 18 months, you may just be an Icelandic citizen. * less if youâre married to or cohabitating with an Icelander ** ĂTL will still need some originals dropped in their mailbox *** youâll need a criminal record check from every place you lived since you were 15
Are The Kids All Right?
Shining a spotlight on the state of kidsâ mental health
We need to talk more about why kids sometimes need to seek help for mental health issues. Sometimes, not everybody is ok. Thatâs why we went and spoke with Chien Tai Shill, a child psychologist and a social worker at the Child and Adolescent Psychiatric Department (BUGL) about their work and helping kids with their mental health.
Whatâs it like working at BUGL?
I find it very pleasant to work here because I get the opportunity to meet a lot of kids. Itâs great to watch them when they start to feel better, because they come in when things are difficult, they donât feel too well or are struggling. Itâs fulfilling to see that change.
What is the most common reason that kids come to BUGL?
It varies. We have some kids who join whatâs called the emergency team. Those are kids who feel very ill â
find ways to help them and point them toward appropriate services. Then we have an outpatient service for kids experiencing emotional distress, like anxiety or depression. We also meet kids who are diagnosed with ADHD or autism, and kids who identify as trans.
How long do children typically stay at BUGL?
Most patients stay with us for a few months or sometimes up to two years in the outpatient ward. Kids and teenagers come for interviews and meet our professionals. We have doctors, nurses, therapists, social workers, occupational therapists, art therapists, developmental therapists, speech pathologists and nutritionists. In our inpatient ward, we have kids stay from maybe a few days, up to a few weeks, depending on what they need.
How old are the kids who seek your help?
Itâs common that theyâre 14-17 years old.
What or who can help kids who struggle with mental health challenges?
Firstly, itâs the family. Parents are very important and knowing that they are supportive and that the children can turn to them matters a lot. Everyone who works and spends time with kids
it. We need to support kids to learn how to deal with adversity.
What effects does your job have on your mental health?
Thatâs an interesting question. I donât think I would be honest if I said it didnât affect me. Sometimes I get sad because I meet kids who are in complicated situations, which can be tough, or if I feel things arenât arenât improving quickly enough â that can be difficult. When that happens, I do the exact same thing as I tell the kids, I seek the support and comfort of my family. Then Iâm extremely happy when things go well.
On a scale of 1-10, how much do you appreciate knowing when kids are feeling better?
Ten is not a high enough number. Iâm very expressive so you can see it miles away when things go well. Itâs an indescribable feeling, itâs that great.
Yrsa interviewed child psychologist GuðrĂșn OddsdĂłttir, as she wanted to find out how to deal with anxiety and how psychologists feel about being psychologists.

The most common challenge children face is anxiety â what can be done to help and what can be done to reduce childrenâs anxiety?
times, weâre supposed to be scared, for example when something dangerous is happening. Anxiety gives us power to leave the situation.
Some people are afraid to ask a question aloud in class, step into an elevator, or sleep in their own bed. Itâs good to know why and from there we can work on eliminating that fear. Thatâs done with practice.
Can kids have depression? How do adults spot it?
Yes, thatâs possible. Anxiety is more common in children, but there are kids who suffer from depression. It becomes more common as we get older. The symptoms of children are intense emotions.
Depressed adults often become more sad, while kids can become more
maybe we stop eating or eat too much or stop wanting to see our friends, then it becomes a problem.
If someone says something horrible during a session, how do you deal with it?
When you learn a profession like psychology, we sometimes talk to people whoâve experienced trauma. For example a child who has lost their parent. So you have resources, checklists of what you want to do for the person. Listen to them, create a secure environment, analyse and evaluate the problem and think about their needs.
You want to make a risk assessment. For example, do I need to call the child protection services or the parents, do I need to cooperate with the school, do I need to talk to the police or the emergency services, or assess the risk
perhaps they have thoughts about not wanting to live or about causing themselves harm. Thatâs immensely tragic. Luckily, we can support them,
can also support them and listen to them. Kids also need to learn to deal with challenges. Everyone faces adversity in life and we need to learn to face
First of all, we need to stop being afraid of anxiety. Anxiety is a necessary reaction and all living beings can become afraid â it helps us stay alive. Anxiety isnât dangerous â we canât die from it, but itâs very uncomfortable. Itâs like if the fire alarm would constantly be on in school. It doesnât mean thereâs a fire but itâs very uncomfortable to have it running all the time. Some-
irritated or have mood swings. They can spend a few moments up to a few days being sad. Their interest and happiness towards things constantly decreases and they often feel sad and unsettled.
Anxiety is more about worries, often due to something specific, while depression is more about hopelessness, negative thoughts about ourselves and the future.
How do you know if you suffer from anxiety or depression?
Itâs natural to feel bad every now and then, it happens to everyone. Itâs good to experience a wide range of emotions. We may want to always be happy and in a good mood, but thatâs not life. We all have bad days. Sometimes itâs because of something specific, sometimes nothing special happened but we still donât feel well. When bad feelings start happening over longer periods of time â for a week or two or longer â without anything specific happening, and
of self-harm â stuff like that. I make sure to follow every procedure, listen, be present and build trust.
Have you cried during interviews?
It happens that I tear up with people in interviews, for example when people experience loss. Children lose a parent or a parent losing their child. Itâs okay that people see that I show compassion and understanding.
What do you think is the most important aspect of being a child psychologist and what do you need to keep in mind when talking to children?
We need to put ourselves in their shoes and realise how somebody understands and receives information so itâs suitable for their age. Itâs important to listen and help children tell their story. Not all kids are used to having time to explain and tell their story. I think itâs very important to respect all ages and not talk to kids like theyâre stupid or belittle them.
âParents are very important and knowing that they are supportive and that the children can turn to them matters a lot.â
âFirst of all, we need to stop being afraid of anxiety. Anxiety is a necessary reaction and all living beings can become afraid â it helps us stay alive.â
ISLANDERS
Itâs Off To Bessastaðir We Go
Getting a glimpse at the life of President Guðni Th. Jóhannesson

Words: BenĂłnĂœ Ingi Ăorsteinsson & Eldlilja Kaja HeimisdĂłttir Images: Art Bicnick
When driving to Bessastaðir we were very nervous that we were going to be meeting the President of Iceland at his home! Walking into Bessastaðir was quite an experience. The main door opened automatically as we approached and a woman greeted us and took our coats. We wrote our names in a guestbook with a very fancy pen. Everything was so fancy and we were just wearing our everyday clothes, which felt a bit clumsy and silly.
When Guðni arrived, he was very friendly. After a couple of jokes, we walked into a library full of old books. We asked how many books were in there and Guðni guessed there were 120! We were brought sparkling water in fancy glasses and started asking our questions.
Is it difficult to be president?
Sometimes, and sometimes not. Sometimes I have a little bit too much on my plate, but I have wonderful people around me at my office and in Bessastaðir. I have a wonderful wife and family that support me in everything, so with their help I manage to enjoy this role, which is an enormous honour every day. It can sometimes be difficult, but then we just have to face those difficulties.
What made you decide to run for president?
When it came time to decide if I wanted to be the president of Iceland or not, the stars were all aligned in a certain way. When I thought about it, I felt I had experience, knowledge and a background that could be useful to the office. I thought I should be able to serve this office in a manner that the nation could be happy
with. So when all these factors were put together, I realised it would be better to regret doing something rather than regretting not doing it. So I decided to run for president and Iâve never regretted that decision.
Do you have any goals as president, and what are you doing to reach these goals?
I set a goal for myself every day and that is to serve this office as well as I can. To treat everyone I meet with the same respect, whether they are heads of state or children interviewing me â everything is just as important and interesting. Some tasks are more difficult than others, and some subjects are more interesting. For example, we just started a general health award, where we encourage people to take care of their physical and mental health â thatâs something Iâm proud of and an issue I deeply care about.
Another project concerns speech technology in Iceland. I want us to ensure the role of Icelandic in the digital world, so instead of grabbing our smartphones and saying: âHey Siri, what time is it in Los angeles?â
We could say: âSĂŠl Embla, hvað er klukkan nĂșna Ă Borg Englanna?â We need to be able to speak Icelandic in the digital world weâre living in now. We are seeing progress in that regard, and Iâm proud of that.
When I put my head on the pillow at night and think to myself, âthis was a good day,â thatâs when Iâve reached that goal.
Whatâs your favourite Icelandic food?
Pan-fried trout, and pancakes with whipped cream for dessert. When I lived
abroad, the first thing I did when I came back home was to get plokkfiskur at my momâs house, so that would also be on the list.
Whatâs your favourite cartoon?
That would be Mulan. A close second would be The Lion King. My eldest daughter watched those two a lot as a child, so I have fond memories of those films.
What do you miss most about the time before you became president?
I miss not having time to research history, which was my profession before. So if I was forced to complain about anything, it would be not having enough time to pursue that interest.
Can you go anywhere without being asked to pose for photos?
Thankfully in Iceland, I enjoy the fact that people I meet everyday are polite. If teenagers or others want to pose for selfies with me, they ask politely, and if I have time, if I am not running to another place for example, I am happy to take a photo.
Do you have any power as president?
Yes and no. As the first article of the Icelandic constitution says: Iceland is a republic with a parliamentary government. That means that members of AlĂŸingi set the law and the ministers in government exercise executive power from day to day.
It is not a presidency like in the United States. The president of Iceland is not as
influential politically as, for example, the president of France, so the role of president in Iceland is a bit different to these countries.
On the other hand, a president can step into the political field and have influence. They can decide to refuse to sign a new law, putting the vote to the Icelandic nation. They can have influence when a new government is being formed in Iceland.
They can also have influence in an indirect way. I could decide to speak about a certain issue during the presidentâs New Yearsâ Address, which a lot of people listen to every year, and in doing so, the president is deciding that issue is worth discussing. I canât decide whether a school should be built in Borgarnes, or a road should be paved around Eskifjörður, or a law should be set about a certain issue. But the indirect influence the president has is still significant and should not be underestimated.
I was a student in FossvogsskĂłli when mould was discovered and then the same thing happened in my home. Now Iâm 14 and I have lost my health and all my belongings. We havenât received any help or compensation, but if our house had caught fire, we would have been insured, and received health care to help with the aftermath. What can you do for people like my family who donât have the health or the means to help ourselves? Your voice matters and people listen to you.
Mould seems to be becoming an increasingly more common issue in Iceland. For example, just yesterday there was news of mould being found in ĂlftanesskĂłli, so one of my children along with their class had to be relocated to another school building.
I would think it should be that people should be able to be insured for these mould problems, and I would also think we should face the fact that this seems to be an issue on the rise.



Kids Run the World
For Better or For Worse
Words: Iryna Zubenko Images: Kazuma Takigawa
âĂg treysti Yrsu R.,â (âI trust Yrsa R.â), I sign a little hand-written waiver decorated with glitter as I sit in a chair to get a haircut. My hairdresser is just over 10-years old, but that doesnât make me even a little bit nervous. âWhat kind of haircut do you want? Is this your natural hair colour? Whatâs your favourite Christmas song?â Yrsa rhymes off her questions in rapid succession before her scissors touch my hair. She hands me a tiny mirror so I can follow her progress. She cuts a bit more than I wished for and feels uneasy. âLet me ask a more experienced hairdresser to take a look,â she rushes away. BenĂłnĂœ (12) takes the lead, makes a quick trim, and reassures me the hair looks even. It doesnât, but I donât intervene. The kids are in charge today. They hand me a hot chocolate, we laugh together â this might be the most stress-free haircut in my life.
Adults, step aside
The organisation in charge of these haircuts is Krakkaveldi, or Kidarchy â a performance-based project, where kids take control. âItâs really fun,â shout 8-year olds SĂłley and MargrĂ©t in unison. âWe do fun things in Krakkaveldi. We do all the things that adults normally do.â The girls are too shy to speak English, and one of the two adults running the project, Salvör (Salka) GullbrĂĄ ĂĂłrarinsdĂłttir, helps to translate.
Kidarchy came about as Salkaâs graduation project at ListahĂĄskĂłli Ăslands. âI wanted to work with children as a collaborator, similarly to theatre,â Salka remembers. âI got the idea of what would happen if you
had a political party with only children as members, and advertised for children that were opinionated. Thatâs how it started.â
The inception of Kidarchy took place in 2019. For four months, the group had a chance to meet regularly at Iðnó, before participating in the Reykjavik Dance Festival.
It was supposed to be a one-time thing, but the kids wanted to continue meeting.
âIn the spring of 2019, there was a wave of protests â refugees were protesting against deportation. They got arrested for putting up a tent on Austurvöllur,â shares Salka. âThe day after, we had a meeting with Kidarchy, and the kids said âThey
would never arrest us if we had a tent on Austurvöllur.â We decided to try it.â This was the first protest Kidarchy participated in â with kids giving speeches and asking politicians not to deport refugees.
âThen came Covid and I hit the wall with Kidarchy,â says Salka. âIâd been doing it mostly alone, and I felt like the performances were not being taken seriously.â
It was around this time that Salkaâs friend Hrefna Lind LĂĄrusdĂłttir joined the project, with an idea of creating Barnabarinn, a Baby Bar. Since 2021, theyâve been running Kidarchy as co-artistic directors.
Inked by kids
Working with kids as equal collaborators is the essence of Kidarchy. Kids come up with the ideas, execute them, even go to interviews. âWeâre working with the fact that this is a constitutionally powerless group â they canât vote and they donât have a say in anything that affects them,â Salka explains.
Hrefnaâs idea to create the Baby Bar was inspired by her internship in an anarchist collective in Italy. She describes it as being âdesigned and ruled by the children,â and as an experiential piece where adults surrender themselves to the happenings inside. âYou can get a drink from children who have been designing drinks, have a heart-to-heart conversation with them, get a haircut or a tattoo (yes, a real one â but supervised by a tattoo artist). And then, there is a relaxation room. Often we end with a cake fight,â she shares.
Before getting a haircut or a tattoo, you have to say that the kid is not responsible for the outcome and you wonât get angry regardless of the result. âYou give away the power,â says Salka.
The idea of children giving real tattoos sounds disturbing to me at first. Questions run through my mind: Who are the people that would agree to that? Were the kids nervous? Is it legal?
âI think it was as legal as getting a tattoo that your friend did at an afterparty. Because thatâs kind of what it is,â Salka laughs. âIt is an afterparty. You get a drink, you talk to people to get advice and then, it gets crazy.â
âI was sceptical, but then I thought I have lots of tattoos done by drunk people at afterparties. I trust a sober 11-year old a little bit better,â she admits, adding. âBut of course, we both have worked with children a lot and would always think about their safety first.â
Welcome to Baby Town
Just as Iâm getting used to the fact that children can be tattoo artists and hairdressers, Salka and Hrefna mention their latest project â BarnabĂŠrin, or the Baby Town â a series of workshops in the countryside, where children can express their ideas on how to improve towns.

âWeâve visited different towns â Seyðisfjörður, Drangsnes, [a town in the] Faroe Islands, and weâre going to HĂșsavĂk in May,â Hrefna shares. âThe idea is to have it accessible for everybody.â
âAnd to kind of take over because the kids want to run for election next time,â adds Salka.
I pause to process this information before asking: âWhat? How can you even do this?â
âI mean, we will try,â Salka answers calmly. It was obviously the kidsâ idea. âWe might have somebody to stand in for them
openly. We have to figure it out,â she says.
âThe idea is to get nationwide support for Kidarchy,â Salka continues. âWeâre going to introduce the concept all over the country, that means, we have allies everywhere.â
The goal is to operate like a Renterâs Association, or like a group thatâs speaking on behalf of its members. âItâs kind of like
demands to the town mayors, but the next steps are still a work in progress. Salka emphasises the importance of getting the demands in writing and following up on them.
Empowered youths
Engaging young people in politics is not a

âWhat would be cool to do?â attitude. âYou can have a revolution or a protest walk, this is stuff doesnât have to be boring,â she says.
âNothing felt like it was too crazy,â Salka contemplates for a moment when I ask if the children had ever wanted to do something that seemed impossible to implement. âWe did end up saying no to doing the cake fight again,â she adds. âThe Nordic House said weâre not allowed to do cake fights there again.â
which is very refreshing for us adults because we tend to complicate everything.â
Both Gauti and Steinunn agree that Kidarchy helped their kids become more confident and express themselves better.
ânothing about us, without us,ââ she says. What are some of the demands that kids have made to municipal authorities?
â[In Seyðisfjörður,] they wanted houses that were destroyed by the mudslide to be rebuilt,â Salka shares. âThen they wanted the ice cream shop to be open longer.â
âAnd a girlâs team in soccer,â Hrefna adds.
âAll very graspable. All very clear. You can make these changes,â Salka admits. âItâs a demand from citizens that can be met.â
In many of the smaller towns, the kids wanted trampoline parks, similar to ReykjavĂkâs Rush. âIn Drangsnes, they had a super nice idea of making the town a birthday town,â Hrefna shares. âWith so many trampolines and such, it would be so much fun that people would drive to Drangsnes to throw their birthday party.â
The children have presented their
new idea; youth parliaments and kid mayor programs exist worldwide. Salka found inspiration from working with experiential artist Ant Hampton, the childrenâs literature of Roald Dahl and Astrid Lingred, various community theatre artists, and political performances like the Best Party, which ran for election in ReykjavĂk (and won!) in 2010. One book that particularly caught her attention is NĂ€r Barnen Tog Makten (literary âWhen the Children Took the Powerâ), where kids take over from the nannies in the kindergarten.
âEmpowerement is the word we use a lot,â says Salka. âBut what we do is giving them tools and making them see that itâs possible, itâs not that difficult to reach the place that you want to go to. You need to do some work and prepare.â
Being like âI wish there was a girlâs soccer team,â thatâs politics,â says Salka. âYou have to get funding to start a girlâs soccer team.â
In Kidarchy they avoid being too serious and allow kids to approach things with
âOne idea was to kill Donald Trump. I was like âI donât have any power to do that, but I can arrange for other stuff,ââ Salka remembers. âOur role as artistic directors is mostly to take the ideas and try to use our tools to make them happen,â she refers to it as being an admin for the kidsâ ideas.
Word to the caregivers
In an effort to better understand why children are protesting against serious issues, taking an interest in politics, and giving real tattoos to strangers, I talked to a few people who are responsible for taking care of them â their parents.
âI was kind of surprised they were actually giving real tattoos. But thatâs the whole point from my perspective,â says Gauti, whose daughter Borghildur will turn 9 this summer. âIf Salka and Hrefna were toning down their ideas, it wouldnât be Kidarchy. The whole essence of the thing is that itâs their ideas unfiltered, put to work.â
Steinunn, whose son and step-son are also in Kidarchy, says: âThey have very simple ideas on how to execute all these big things,
âItâs a fun challenge to give a speech in front of people. But also a confidence booster in the sense that the kids feel their ideas matter,â shares Gauti. âIâve noticed some changes â Borghildurâs thinking more about socio-political issues, especially when thereâs a project going on. She comes home and sheâs thinking about whoâs running for mayor and stuff like that.â
âSeeing my kid, it really gave him a lot of self-esteem,â says Steinunn. âHe was very into it immediately because he had a huge voice in that group. I guess he wasnât used to being in a world where his voice would have any say in anything.â




âOf course, theyâre kids, and some ideas they have is to rain candy and such. But most of the times, itâs like, âWow, theyâre really thinking about that,â like, the refugee or environmental issues,â she continues.
Gauti believes itâs good that Kidarchyâs schedule is project-based. âThey may not meet for three-four months, and then they have something going on,â he says. âIf it was every week, it would just become one more of those things. Kids get bored with stuff that you have to go to every week.â
Finally, the kids
The opinions that matter most are, of course, those of the Kidarchy kids. The
âWe have to have some say in everything that is happening in our country.â
ties (one even sings in a band), you canât meet with them in the morning (because school), and they always need a ride. When we finally meet, theyâre way too excited about an upcoming ice-cream tasting, but they unanimously agree on one thing: Kidarchy is super fun.
âMy aunt sent me an advertisement that there was this thing Krakkaveldi and I was very excited about it,â Yrsa (11) remembers. âWe have a lot of opportunities that are really fun. It has a very special place in my heart.â Since joining in the spring of 2022, Yrsa has already participated in a number of projects. âMy first thing in Krakkaveldi was the June 17, Icelandic National Day. I was tattooing real tattoos,â she pauses for me to grasp that they were indeed real tattoos.
âI just did a tattoo on my aunt who told me about Krakkaveldi. She got hearts,â Yrsa anticipates my next question: âShe doesnât regret it.â Though giving tattoos was fun, Yrsa preferred cutting peopleâs hair. âI loved doing hair and makeup at the time,â she says. âOn the summer course we talked to a tattoo artist, and there was a hairdresser on the spot who taught us to cut hair.â What is her favourite project so far, I ask. âProbably when I was cutting your hair. Christmas haircuts and this,â says Yrsa, referring to Krakkaveldiâs takeover of the Grapevine. âThis is really big for me.â
Iâm curious if Yrsa is considering running for parliament with BarnabĂŠrin next year. âI can do better than that,â she answers. âI would be good, but I have my own life and I can do so much better.â

âDo you have any more questions?â Yrsa asks. Sheâs very busy and I let her prepare for an interview with Laufey.
sit me all the time,â Brynja (12) says, pointing at Salka. âIâve been here for four years. Itâs a fun thing to do, to put the adults in their place.â
âI did a tattoo on someone,â she lights up with excitement. âI did three tattoos that day. One of them cried. It was her first tattoo. I drew a man with a flower head,â she pauses and adds, âLike a real tattoo.â
MagnĂșs (14) turns to Brynja, his face terrified. âA real tattoo? Oh my god, I would never do that.â
Unlike other kids I talked to, Eldlilja (15) was invited to join Kidarchy. Acting is her passion, and sheâs been involved with the project since she was 10.



Eldlilja shares why she takes part in Kidarchy. âI just feel I have a voice for every kid of my generation,â she says. âI have been putting up speeches in front of an audience, like in Austurvöllur. Everyone is listening to you and thinks youâre important, even though youâre just a kid. Itâs amazing.â
âWe say everything,â Eldlilja stresses. âWe were talking about people that we are sending out of the country. I thought that was very important. In Austurvöllur, I saw Sigmundur DavĂð [MP and former Prime Minister] and I was asking him questions about sending people away. He was pretty rude,â she shares. âHe didnât answer me. He thought it was a joke and he was walking so fast. I donât know how but we took everything â we were filming at the right time, so we have a video,â she burst into laughter.
Beyond playtime
Eldlilja is confident kids should be represented in the parliament. âWe have to be
part of this because itâs our future,â she says. âWe have to have some say in everything that is happening in our country.â Iâm curious about what are some of the issues that bother her personally and she doesnât hesitate for a moment: âReykjavĂkurborg is making so many buildings, tearing down forests and every green spot in ReykjavĂk. Why do that? I think itâs very important to tell them to stop. I understand we have to build some houses and stuff, but not so close to each other,â she says.
NĂna (12), who is working with Kidarchy for the first time, agrees that kids need to contribute to the conversation. âI definitely think we should get kidsâ opinions because adults often make decisions about kids,â she says.
When it comes to running for parliament, NĂna isnât so sure. âThere are a lot of kids in my class that I just would not want to see in politics. So I think we should leave it for the adults. But, you know, the adults arenât always good either,â she shrugs.
âPeople often say âOh, you guys are so funnyâ and donât respect our rules,â says Brynja. âBut we still want people to respect
us. We can be responsible.â
âSo, you donât feel respected as a kid?â I ask, feeling slightly surprised. At 12, I was busy building tree houses and blanket forts, and being respected by adults was the last thing on my mind.
âNo,â she answers.
âAt one of our shows, there was a rule that the adults have to put their phones in a box,â Brynja shares. âAnd three of them refused. They were all kicked out. They tried to come back, but still refused to leave their phones.â
And suddenly, I get it. Itâs not about killing Donald Trump (or harming anyone, per se), making it rain candy, or giving tattoos â in the end, these kids just want equal opportunities and freedom to express themselves as peers. They are hilariously fun, and even though Salka assured me that Iâm past the age-limit to join Kidarchy, I have complete confidence that these kids will go far. We really donât have to worry about them. Kids do run the world, and looking around the busy streets of ReykjavĂk crowded with mini-someones, you can decide for yourself whether itâs for better or for worse.
âWe want people to respect us. We can be responsible.â
BarnamenningarhĂĄtĂð
April 18 - 23 â Multiple locations â Free
Since 2010, BarnamenningarhĂĄtĂð (Childrenâs Culture Festival) has brought a wide array of artistic disciplines to the youths of ReykjavĂk through workshops, performances, and participatory events. Focused on children up to 16-years old, the five-day festival comprises dozens of free events all over town. This yearâs focus is specifically on events in the family-oriented suburb Grafarvogur and events related to peace. The festival is well-known for fostering the next generations of artists and creatives in Iceland, and is open for all to take part in. Grab your kids and go create. For more information, visit barnamenningarhatid.is.
INTERVIEW
Actors, Theyâre Just Like Us
ReykjavĂk International
Literary Festival

April 19 - 23 â Multiple venues â Free Crack your spines and fold back your dogâs ears, people, itâs time for the ReykjavĂk International Literary Festival! For over 30 years (non-consecutively, however) the gathering of all-things-books has brought together writers of all stripes to celebrate the joy of the written word. Taking place over several cosy venues across the city, this yearâs lineup features over 25 wordsmiths, including Pulitzer Prize-winning author of The Underground Railroad Colson Whitehead, bestselling author and champion of womenâs fiction Jenny Colgan, and acclaimed non-fiction author Ă sne Seierstad. The whole programme is free, conducted in English and open to all. Find the full schedule at bokmenntahatid.is.
Words: Yrsa RĂșn GunnarsdĂłttir Images: Art Bicnick
Itâs the golden age of television and that rings true in Iceland, too. A number of made-inIceland comedies and dramas have earned significant buzz in recent years, including the thriller Trapped and the nostalgic limited series Blackport. But another series thatâs been keeping Icelanders glued to their screens is Venjulegt FĂłlk (Ordinary People) , a dramedy following the trials and tribulations of friends and actresses Vala and JulĂana.
What was the first production you acted in?
That was a play called Bull by Mike Bartlett. It was just the four of us and it revolved around harassment in the workplace, where I played a woman who was evil and mean.
What is your favourite thing about acting?
Getting people to laugh. I like acting characters who are a bit evil or weird. In the theatre, itâs great to get people to laugh because then you know youâve made someone happy. Maybe happier than they were before they came in. When people laugh and laugh and then maybe they leave they think, âWow, this was fun,â then I feel good in my heart.
Do you need to like people to be an actor?
DesignMarch 2023
May 3 - 7 â Multiple venues â Various prices


Thereâs a silly old expression that goes âdesign is art without suffering.â Well, thatâs debatable, but thereâs certainly no suffering at DesignMarch, the annual celebration of all things Icelandic design! Now in its 15th year, and taking place in May instead of March, the event is a platform for innovative, imaginative and surprising approaches to myriad facets of design (graphic, product, industrial, architecture, fashion, you name it). Fostering an environment for dialogue and collaboration, there are over 250 events and 100 exhibitions within the cadre of DesignMarch, including the DesignTalks conference. Events and exhibitions vary in price, so check designmarch.is for the full programme and admission fees.
With the sixth season in the works and a movie adaptation on the horizon, Krakkaveldi journalist Yrsa sat down with writer, producer and lead actress Vala KristĂn EirĂksdĂłttir to discuss how she got her start in acting, her favourite roles and more.
When did your acting career start?
I went to university and studied acting. I had always wanted to be an actress. I always participated in school productions when I was younger. When the school set up a play, I always raised my hand and said, âPlease can I, please can I?â
Yes, I think so. You canât avoid meeting and getting to know new people. If youâre in a show, you need to spend almost every night of the week with them. Whatâs most exciting about meeting new people is that each and every person is a whole world and a whole adventure. Itâs exhilarating to meet new people and we can learn a lot from each other.
How did you decide on the name of the series Ordinary People?
For a long time, we didnât have a clue what to name the show or which title might be good. The show follows people who are trying to raise their kids well, people who try their best at work, people who fall in love, people who experience heartbreak, people who lie and make mistakes and try to
make things right. Weâre just writing about life and what itâs like to exist and be normal. So why not call it Ordinary People?
What was the best thing about making Ordinary People?
It takes a long time to write each show. So the first time we were on set to act out a scene, I heard an actor say the lines we wrote and I went like, âWoah!â Just seeing it come to life was incredible.
How do you remember scripts?
When I need to memorise a lot of text, I read it into my phone and listen to it while Iâm doing the dishes or walking my dog. Like when you hear a song over and over again, suddenly you know the lyrics. I just listen to myself for hours until I can remember the lines.
Which of your characters did you really enjoy playing?
The mom from bit mean but she didnât think she was, and she was a bit strange and had big, very loud, great hair and a lot of make-up. Itâs nice to play someone who isnât completely normal. Although, maybe nobody is normal.
What do you find most entertaining about the industry?
You have some sort of a life and routine and itâs very fun to be somebody completely different. You see somebody in society and think, âwhatâs it like to be that person?â Just
like when I was little, playing in the lava field or in the yard imagining, âNow Iâm a dragon or a princess or Iâm the horseâ â sort of trying to be in an adventure. Every kid does that, but when we get older we stop playing and think itâs silly.
Whatâs your favourite colour?
Yellow.
Why yellow? Iâve heard your favourite colours says a lot about your personality.
Itâs bright and open like the sun. It reminds me of summer. Itâs happy, bright, open, and cheery. I would very much like to be yellow and to know that people are happy to see me.
The young journalist found it very fun and interesting to talk to Vala KristĂn and get to know her and her dog, ĂlĂver, whoâs a very good boy.


Vala KristĂn reflects on her favourite roles, favourite things and being âordinaryâ
Stay like a local
Meet An Absolutely
If you could go on vacation anywhere in the world, where would you choose to go?
Iâve heard good things about Vietnam and the people there.




Whatâs your opinion on spiders? I think theyâre fine. Iâm not scared of them and I know thereâs nothing to be afraid of â but thatâs easy for me to say as Iâm not scared of them. He asks me whether Iâm afraid of spiders but I think we should stick to the subject here and reply, âNo comment.â

Whatâs your opinion on pizza? I love pizza. When I was a kid, pizza was fairly new in Iceland. At a place called PizzahĂșsið at GrensĂĄsvegur you could buy one slice that was a quarter of a 16 inch pizza and you would get a baked potato with it. Nowadays, every kid wants to have sushi and I keep nagging them to have

âIt was an interesting start to be playing against live farm
8 hotels, restaurants & spas in the heart of Reykjavik ]





What If The Kids Were In Charge?
Introducing the key planks of Kidarchyâs platform
Would you vote for a kid?
Kidarchyâs manifesto consists of its membersâ uncensored opinions. You might not agree with our ideas, but we also donât always agree with each other, either. Thatâs okay. What we do all agree on is wanting to make the world a better place for all. All kids are allowed to join Kidarchy and make their voices heard!
Immigration:
We would stop the immigration bill that was just passed in the Icelandic Parliament.

Public office:
There would be no more professional politicians. People shouldnât just be politicians to have a job, but because they want to make the world better.
Taxation:
We would tax the rich. We would ban billionaires, because the only way to become a billionaire is by mistreating
workers. We would change things so people wouldnât need money anymore â so no one would be poor.
Social services:
Krakkaveldiâs Iceland would focus on giving everyone more education and more therapy â for free, of course!
Housing:
We would stop homelessness. We would employ all homeless people that want to have a job. We would make the homeless shelters bigger, and have them be open 24 hours a day, so they donât have to be out in the cold and snow during the day, like they do now.
Cost of living:
We would lower food prices, everything is becoming so expensive! We would stop stores from selling water. Water should always be free.
Environmental policy:
We would stop the extraction of oil in Alaska under the Willow project immediately. We heard about it on TikTok, and then started Googling it and looking for information. Joe Bidenâs administration just approved the project, which is disappointing because he used to say he cared about the environment. Now heâs accepting one of the most dangerous projects for the environment â and for the world!
Words: Krakkaveldi Images: Art Bicnick & Krakkaveldi
âKrakkaveldiâs Iceland would focus on giving everyone more education and more therapy â for free, of course!â
The most special co ee from specialists in speciality co ee.
Climate change wonât be fixed if the project continues, the human population will be extinct in a few years. It will ruin the world; we wonââ be able to save it. Itâs extremely serious!
The thing is, politicians just want money. If I was president of the United States I would never have accepted the Willow project. If I was Prime Minister of Iceland, Iâd use my power as Icelandâs head of state to speak with Joe Biden and ask him to fight against the Willow project.
make a car that runs on plastic! If Krakkaveldi ruled everything, we would redesign the cities so they wouldnât be so car-reliant. Our cities would have more green spaces, which would create more joy for everyone!
Then we would ban private cars, cause everyone could just use the bus.
Artificial intelligence:
We would ban AI art! Itâs ruining the value of art. If you look at AI art then you can see that they are stealing from real artists! Art has less worth if
Meet The Stringers
Yrsa, 11
What do you want to be when you grow up?
âHigh school professor in psychology. I want to go to Harvard University. They have a really good psychology programme. My grandfatherâs brother went to Harvard so I want to follow in his steps. Itâs my only goal in life.â
Favourite food:
âBĂłnus lasagna is my favourite thing and pasta with ketchup.â
Hobbies:
âIâm singing in a band. You can look it up, the name is Spotlight. We have a music video.â
Brynja, 12
What do you want to be when you grow up?
fun of someone, you find solutions in the circle, like saying sorry, asking for a hug, talking about it or so on. It really works for children, and even for teenagers. We think it might even work for adults.
Mental health:
We would do something about kidsâ mental health issues. For example, we would have a day once in a while in school where you can do whatever you want. If youâre tired you could go to sleep, or if you wanted to be on your iPad watching YouTube, you could.
Misc.:
We would ban selling pizza with pineapple on it â or wait, we actually donât all agree with that!
A disclaimer from Maggi:
âI want to work in a juvenile correction center or be a criminal psychiatrist. Itâd be fun to be a criminal psychiatrist. I could go to Cambridge for college, which is probably not gonna happen. I just want to know what itâs like to work there and make it better for them because many kids go to very bad correction centers.â
Hobbies:
âI really like painting and drawing, but thatâs really basic. Everybody loves that.â
MagnĂșs, 14
What do you want to be when you grow up?
âI wanna work in film or TV. But probably as a writer.â
Hobbies:
âI donât really have hobbies. I just do things I want to do on a huge scale. I really just think of ideas in my head, and I find ways to express them.â
Eldlilja, 15
What do you want to be when you grow up?
âI think I want to be an actor, a journalist, a director or something. I would love that.â
Favourite food:
Kids are thinking the most about the environment, while adults are ruining the planet! Weâre trying to make our futures bright, but the adults are ruining it!
We would take away all the plastic from the ocean â right now! And we would stop plastic production â with the exception of plastic straws and plastic spoons, because the paper ones really suck. But you would have to recycle that plastic. With the used plastic straws and spoons, we would
you can just push a button and make it. There are people that spend hours working on their art and practicing their technique. AI art is less valuable than all that work.
Conflict resolution:
We would instill the Solution Circle in every kindergarten and elementary school. The Solution Circle is like a system to help kids figure out what to do when they have conflict with each other. For example, if kids are making
I actually shouldnât be a member of parliament, because I donât think I know enough about the issues. So I actually donât think I know any better than Icelandic politicians â but at least I can admit it.

âHomemade pizzas. Theyâre amazing.â
Hobbies:
âI love acting, sewing, doing things with my hands and making art. Oh, and Taekwondo!â
These kids have got it all figured out
âKids are thinking the most about the environment, while adults are ruining the planet! Weâre trying to make our futures bright, but the adults are ruining it!â
Magical Music and Green Leaves
In conversation with breakout Icelandic singer-songwriter Laufey LĂn

Words: Yrsa RĂșn GunnarsdĂłttir Images: Foundations Music/Supplied
Laufey LĂn JĂłnsdĂłttir is a 23-yearold singer-songwriter who was born in ReykjavĂk but now lives in Los Angeles. A modern jazz musician, Laufey always wanted to be a singer, but when she was younger she didnât believe it would happen as she was very shy.
Laufey began practising music at four- or five-years old when she started learning piano, and it only progressed from there. âThree years ago I released my first song, called âStreet by Street,ââ she told me when we spoke via video chat in March.
Asked what advice she would give others interested in becoming musicians, Laufey says you âneed to love to sing and you need to first do something thatâs close to your heart.â She says she draws inspiration just from life and being a young woman.
âIâm inspired by a lot of things, for example the books that I read or
voice, so I relate to that.â But Laufeyâs favourite contemporary singer is Taylor Swift. âEven though our styles are very different, she is a very talented songwriter and she has been producing music for so many years. She has been a huge name for what, 15 years?!â
Itâs fun to know that Laufey and I are both âSwifties,â meaning weâre big fans of Taylor Swift. I also learned we have many other things in common, like our favourite animals are rabbits and that we both love hot tubs.
As for her own music, Laufeyâs favourite song she has written is âFragile,â which she says she âassociates with Iceland.â Asked who she most enjoys performing for, Laufey says, âI prefer singing to young people, but of course I also perform for adults.â
I asked her a bit about her new record thatâs coming out and she tells me, âItâs very magical. The songs are just like my regular songs. Iâm not changing

MUSIC Music News

MĂșsĂktilraunir, Once Again
Itâs that time of year again, where young musicians are lauded for their dedication to crafting their work. MĂșsĂktilraunir is the annual battle of the bands competition, where 32 bands and artists demonstrate their ability spanning four semi-finals. Ultimately, 12 artists were chosen to clash in the finals, with one standing as the true winner of music. This year, alt-rockers FĂłkus were awarded first place. Hailing from Höfn Ă Hornafirði, in southeast Iceland, the all-female rock band demonstrated a unified and controlled stage presence, with a sound reminiscent of â90s alternative-rock and grunge. Second place went to techno-pop artist Torfi, and teen-pop band DĂłra and Döðlurnar rounded out the top three.
INTERVIEW Stopping, Reflecting and Starting Again
BrĂet reflects on her process to date and what comes next
Words: Lilja Bragadóttir & Esja Mae Fulton Aðalsteinsdóttir Images: Art Bicnick
On a drizzly day in ReykjavĂk, Lilja and Esja sat in the glass atrium in the building where the Grapevine is located and waited patiently for the
Winning Big At The Ăslensku tĂłnlistarverðlaunin
Originating in the 1960s, the Icelandic Music Awards have been held semiregularly over the past three decades. On March 22, musicians and their entourages filled Harpan to receive recognition for all the sweat, blood and tears theyâve poured into their work. Changes were made to many of the prize categories, resulting in a shorter awards list. Pop, hip-hop, rock, and electronic music genres were combined into one comprehensive category. In the same category, Guðlaug SĂłley HöskuldsdĂłttir (gugusar) won Best Performer, Björk won Best Producer for her album Fossora, and many more awards bestowed to a total of 20 artists.

one and only BrĂet to arrive for an interview.
The 24-year-old singer has taken Iceland by storm over the past few years, releasing her breakout album Kveðja, BrĂet in 2020, picking up a bunch of Grapevine Music Awards and Icelandic Music Awards, and establishing herself as an icon. Her talent â and all round cool persona â hasnât gone unnoticed by these young journalists, who have seen her perform over the years at their after school programme, in a stripped down concert in Eyrarbakki, and at an Iceland Airwaves off-venue performance, to name a few.


When BrĂet swept into the building dressed as if she were ready to take the stage, it was time for the young journalists to get to work.
What inspires you to make music?
the environment gives me inspiration.
What is your favourite song apart from your songs?
and then Iâm inspired again to finish it. It was maybe a bit difficult to write âFimmâ because it started a little differently. I thought it was going to be more of a dance song but then it started calling for a slower tempo so it was a bit difficult to finish it.
Do you play any instruments?
Yes, I play guitar and piano.
What is your favourite colour? White.
Right now itâs a song by Bob Dylan called âDonât Think Twice, Itâs All Right.â
What is your favourite song you made?
I go back and forth, depending on how I feel. But right now itâs âSĂłlblĂłm.â
What would you be if you werenât a singer? I would be another kind of artist, like a painter or an actress.
What is your favourite food? Sushi.
What is your favourite sport?
I really enjoy watching handball, but
Icelandâs favourite experimental happening, Extreme Chill Festival announced their show dates earlier in April. The festival will take place September 21 - 24 in ReykjavĂk. The festival has always been open to changes, having been hosted all around Iceland and even in Berlin. This time around, it will take place across Gamla BĂĂł, Kex Hostel, IðnĂł and Space Odyssey, with more venues to be announced. The festival aims to foster relationships between Icelandic and international musicians, with a focus on platforming a range of art forms, from experimental music to visual art. The full line-up as well as information on tickets will be announced May 5.
I get this question a lot and sometimes I really have to think about it a lot because there is no one thing â there are so many things. It can just be a conversation like just the three of us talking now and I hear something beautiful that you say that makes me want to write about. It can be some new feeling or some new experience that can inspire me. So everything in
You won some awards recently, what were they?
I won Singer of the Year, Performer of the Year and Song of the Year at the Hlustendaverðlaunin (Listenerâs Choice Awards).
What was the hardest song to write?
When it gets difficult to write songs, I stop working on it and start working on something new â and it happens in every song. I go and make a new song and then I come back to the old one
if I were playing myself, then I donât know. I think handball is very fun to watch. Itâs the most fun sport.
Are you working on any new music?
Yes! Now Iâm trying to compose in English and Iâm going to make songs or an album or something. I donât really know when it will be released but Iâm currently writing full time.
âIt can just be a conversation like just the three of us talking now and I hear something beautiful that you say that makes me want to write about.â
âWhen it gets difficult to write songs, I stop working on it and start working on something new â and it happens in every song.â
CENTRE map
The City Map presents a selection of restaurants, bars and shops that have been crowned âBest Of ReykjavĂkâ in recent years.
Dining
1. Le Kock Tryggvagata 14
The craft burger OG has never been better. No one toasts potato buns to crisp perfection like they do, or cooks patties to such medium rare goodness. Everything is made from scratch, including the condiments! This is gourmet fast food, with all of the attention to detail and none of the sacrifice on fun and flavour.
2. Flatey Grandagarður 11
Educating a country beyond their diet of pizza-chain pies is no small feat, but thatâs exactly what Flatey sought to do when they burst onto the scene, and for that we applaud them. The Margherita continues to be a panel favourite; who can argue with milky mozzarella and tomatoes?
3. Fine RauðarĂĄrstĂgur 33
A panel favourite, Fine is a no nonsense, no frills, Sichuanese Chinese restaurant that steadfastly opens ReykjavĂkâs mindâs and palates to the regional cuisine. The Mala Chicken is a tingling explosion of flavour, literally, thanks to the sichuan peppercorn. For something simple yet exciting, we recommend the Hot and Sour Potatoes.
4. SONO matseljur SĂŠmundargata 11
Sono overlooks a wild-flower meadow and a spectacular view of the ReykjavĂk skyline. Languorous and idyllic, the menu too is shaped for slow savouring. The chefs look beyond Iceland for inspiration, while still showcasing seasonal, local produce in all its colourful glory. Foraged herbs, berries, fruits, stems, and flowers all feature on the menu, resulting in a fun affair that serves as a reminder that good vegan food goes beyond batter fried cauliflower.
5. Laundromat AusturstrĂŠti 9
Laundromat offers a cool â50âsdiner-meets-maximalist-library vibe, decorated with bright furnishings, maps and colour-coded books. Itâs great for families in general, but teens in particular like the fun decor, burgers and milkshakes. We especially love their vocal support for breastfeeding, as well as the fact that you can actually do laundry here.
6. Deig Workshop Tryggvagata 14
Deigâs âpoor manâs offerâ is as good as it gets on this abnormally expensive


island. For 1500 ISK, you can choose from a handmade bagel with a filling of your choice, any doughnut or pastry from their selection, and a simple drink (coffee, juice or kokomjölk, basically). Even better, they open at 7 a.m., and the offer is valid every weekday, for as long as the bakery is open.
7. Sushi Social ĂingholtsstrĂŠti 5
If you are a group of friends looking for a fun night about town, Sushi Social is the place to be. The menu is ideal for sharing â although, whoâd want to share something as delectable as langoustine tempura. Order one â or several â of those colourful drinks with names that recall a tropical holiday to make a fun night even more festive.
8. Sumac Grill & Drinks Laugavegur 28

Sumac is one of the few places that cooks lamb with none of that sous-vide nonsense. An unpretentious lamb rib, cooked on the grill, kissed with smoke and licked by flame is pretty hard to top. Sumac serves it with blistered grapes, fried almonds, a splash of thinned down muhammara and lentils. Itâs a dish you canât get enough of, and thankfully the restaurant hasnât dared to take it off the menu.
9. Borg 29 BorgartĂșn 29
This is one of the more comfortable food halls to be at, with a wide variety of choices to please most anyone.
âAlmost every place makes small plates, which is excellent for sharing,â observed one panellist. Sheâs right, one can choose from sushi at Umami, to burgers at Yuzu, to grilled meats at BĂĄl.

10. Fish Company Vesturgata 2a
For the definitive seafood experience in ReykjavĂk, youâd be hard pressed to find a better spot than FiskfĂ©lagið. Their tasting menus are a great way to try the best Icelandic waters have to offer, from Atlantic cod served Japanese style, to harissa wolf-fish. The sushi platter makes for a great lunch while their fish of the day is usually a generous pan-fried dish with a luscious sauce.
11. ĂrĂr Frakkar Baldursgata 14
This cosy, tucked-away restaurant has not let anything sway them from tradition â youâll spot everything from foal, to blackbird, to cod throats to plokkfiskur on their menu. Opened in 1989, the restaurant has been run by chef Ălfar Eysteinsson and his family
ever since. A visit to this place underlines that good old-fashioned Icelandic cooking can be all kinds of memorable.


Drinking
12. Röntgen Hverfisgata 12
This place has it all. âItâs crazy how itâs continued to dominate the bar scene in ReykjavĂk,â one panellist raved. âBut itâs just got so many elements.It works for every vibe, which is so rare for a bar.â Despite only appearing on the downtown scene a few years ago, the place has already cemented itself among the nightlife legends.
13. Jungle Cocktail Bar AusturstrĂŠti 9
âJungleâs vibe naturally caters to an early night crowd. Itâs stylish and airy, and, of course, they have the most innovative and delicious cocktails in the city,â enthused one panel member. The panel also praised the barâs diversitynoting how attendees spanned all ages and demographics.
14. Kaffibarinn BergstaðastrÊti 1
Letâs be real: thereâs a reason that Kaffibarinn is still here and full of dedicated regulars. At night, youâll find the crowd gets rowdy, the convos get interesting and the dance floor gets sweaty in the most wonderful way. âItâs the obvious choice,â said a panellist. âWho doesnât have some crazy story from closing time in the smoking area at Kaffibarinn?â
15. Gaukurinn Tryggvagata 22
With dim lights, leather sofas, genderneutral bathrooms and free tampons, this bar/venue is the preferred hangout for the unorthodox ReykvĂkingar. So if youâre looking for like-minded alt/ queer peeps, there you go. From heavy metal fests to quieter indie shows, this second floor haunt does it all.
16. BravĂł Laugavegur 22
BravĂł: a dark room with amber-toned light, simple furniture, and cosy bohemian pillows. Their happy hour â perhaps the most prolific in the city â starts at 12:00 everyday and lasts until 20:00. Located in the heart of Laugavegur, itâs also a prime peoplewatching spot.
17. Ăðinstorg Ăðinstorg
Itâs decided: Ăðinstorg is the best outdoor drinking spot in ReykjavĂk. The new square was previously a parking area, but is now an open, airy, designed-forthose-lazy-summer-days paradise. You have good sun, good seating, Snaps, and Bodega, and serious mainland European vibes.
18. Session Craft Bar BankastrĂŠti 14
With its minimal appearance, stainless steel bar backed with dozens of taps and fridges full of beers canned and bottled, Session is a place that, while cosy enough, is made for serious craft heads. Whether youâre hankering for a lip-puckering gose, or an IPA packed with more flowers than a funeral, Session has got your back.
SKOTHĂSVEGUR
TRYGGVAGATA
AUSTURSTRĂTI
BANKASTR.
Skreið
Laugavegur 4
Brought to us by the fine folks behind Grapevine fave bar Röntgen, Skreið is a brand new bistro-bar-boutique featuring fine wine and delicious Basque-style tapas at affordable





Set in a beautiful old house on the last block of Laugavegur, youâll find a killer restaurant on the top floor, a bar on the second floor, and a shop on the first floor selling fine products from the upper two. Thatâs the kind of trickle down we can get behind.

Gourmands rejoice!

Opening hours: Wednesday - Saturday 17:00-1:00

Kitchen closes at 22:00
NJARĂARGATA
Shopping
20. Yeoman
Laugavegur 7
2021 saw Yeoman being donned by international celebrities while also continuing her reign as the primary fashion tastemaker for ReykjavĂk women.âTo talk about modern Icelandic style is to talk about Yeoman,â one panel member said.
NJARĂARGATA
GRETTISGATAFRAKKASTĂGUR
21. Lucky Records RauðarĂĄstĂgur 10
NAUTHĂLSVEGUR
Lucky Records is the one-stop-shop for anything Icelandic music. Theyâve got it all; new titles, CDs, rarities, vinyl, cassettes, second hand 12â, 7â sections, you name it! Notably, the store is very in touch with the local underground. Basically any Icelandic release â no matter how big or small â will be sold there, and trust and believe, their shopkeepers will know them inside and out.
22. Hringekjan
ĂĂłrunnartĂșn 2
Similar to a consignment shop, Hringekjan is a space where people can rent out spaces to sell their own clothes and accessories. Itâs the most eco-friendly way to keep your closet fresh, which, in ligh t of our current world, is something we should all be thinking about. âI donât know how they get such chic people to sell their clothes there,â laughed one panel member. If you want something groovy this is the place to go.â
between studio and store, functioning as both the designersâ workspace, as well as the place where one can purchase their wares.
24. HĂșrra ReykjavĂk
Hverfisgata 18a
HĂșrra ReykjavĂk has changed the game of ReykjavĂk fashion in a matter of years. They offer a la mode streetwear like Stussy, Champion and Adidas, and by doing so theyâve created a fashion frenzy. Trump might not have âmade America great again,â but HĂșrra ReykjavĂk has made local streetwear great
Events
Concerts, comedy, movies and a bunch of stuff that defies categorization (and sometimes logic)
Friday, April 14
Friday Night Party
Screening: Pulp Fiction
21:00 BĂĂł ParadĂs
StripLab Event
20:00 Gaukurinn
Ice land Sym phonyâs
Open Re hears als
10:00 Harpa - Eldborg
An na , Si belius & Ts ja jkovskĂj
19:30 Harpa - Eldborg
russian.girls, In3dee, Slummi & SkĂșlagata DJs
21:00 HĂșrra
The Boob Sweat Gang, GrĂła, SagaB, Sigga Ăsk & RĂłshildur
20:00 KEX Hostel
Open Lab
15:00 ListahĂĄskĂłli Ăslands
P.J. Fossum, Ăsa ĂlafsdĂłttir & Ana Luisa DĂaz de CossĂo
20:00 Mengi
ĂĂłrir Georg - Nokkur góð
Album Release Show
16:30 ReykjavĂk Record
Shop
Saturday, April 15
GallerĂ SvigrĂșm
Exhibition Opening Party
19:00 12 TĂłnar
Ezeo DJ Set
21:00 BravĂł
Solaris Fundraiser:
PĂĄll Ăskar, Ăsgeir Trausti, GDRN & More


20:00 Bryggjan BrugghĂșs
GGGGGGG
20:00 Gaukurinn
ABBA Tribute Show
21:00 Harpa - Eldborg
80s PartĂœ!
20:30 Harpa - Norðurljós
Volcanova, MĂșr & Ultra MagnĂșs
20:00 HĂșrra
MUSIC PICKS
Babies Ball 21:00 KEX Hostel
RĂkharður H. Friðriksson & Hugo Palmsköld
20:00 Mengi
Sunday, April 16
Black Sunday Screening: THX 1138
21:00 BĂĂł ParadĂs
Sunday Club 21:00 BravĂł
Garvin JohnsonReggae Concert
20:00 Gaukurinn
Tommy Emmanuel
20:00 Harpa - Silfurberg
Theremin Workshop for Kids
13:00 Mengi
Go Afternoon Meetup
12:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Trans Ăsland Music Workshop
18:00 StĂșdentakjallarinn
Monday, April 17
âBring The Laughsâ Comedy Night 20:30 Gaukurinn
Feima + SalĂłme KatrĂn 20:00 Harpa - FlĂłi
Monday Jazz 19:30 Le KocK
Magic the Gathering Commander Meetup
19:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Tuesday, April 18
Karaoke Night 20:00 Gaukurinn
Wednesday, April 19
Supersport!, BSĂ & BKPM
19:00 12 TĂłnar
TTT DJ Set 21:00 BravĂł
Velvet Villain
20:00 Gaukurinn
KK, PĂĄlmi & Maggi EirĂks
20:30 HĂĄskĂłlabĂĂł
DJ Ăli DĂłri
20:00 KEX Hostel
Summer Lovinâ
Burlesque Show
19:00 Kiki Queer Bar
Sit Down, Shut Up, Thereâll be Jokes
20:00 Loft Hostel
Sölvi/Hilmar/MagnĂșs
20:00 Mulinn Jazz Club
Thursday, April 20
Fringe Festival
Warmup Show
20:00 Gaukurinn
Big Bang Kids Festival
11:00 Harpa
DJ Psychotic SĂmon
20:00 KEX Hostel
LottĂł, Afterparty Angel & Final Boss Type Zero
18:00 R6013
Role-Play Evening
18:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Harmony - FWD Youth Company
18:00 & 20:00 TjarnabĂĂł
Friday, April 21
Friday Night Party
Screening: The Babadook
21:00 BĂĂł ParadĂs
Daniil - 600

Album Release Show
20:00 Gamla BĂĂł
InZeros
20:00 Gaukurinn
DJ Andre
20:00 KEX Hostel
Pub Quiz
19:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Saturday, April 22
KR Bear
21:00 BravĂł
Wacken Metal Battle 2023
20:00 Gaukurinn
JĂłn Ălafs
Anniversary Show
20:00 Harpa - Eldborg
Ălafur Kram:
EKKI TREYSTA FISKUNUM
Album Release Show 19:30 HĂșrra
Sunday, April 23
Singer-Songwriter Night
Go Afternoon Meetup
12:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Djöfulsins snillingur
20:30 TjarnabĂĂł
Monday, April 24
StripLab Event
20:00 Gaukurinn
Magic the Gathering Commander Meetup
18:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Tuesday, April 25
Karaoke Night
20:00 Gaukurinn
Wednesday, April 26
Eternal Roots Soundsystem
21:00 BravĂł
Prins PĂłlĂł Birthday Memorial Show
19:30 Gamla BĂĂł
Comedy Night:
Mekkin Roff
20:00 Gaukurinn
Lukas Graham
20:00 Harpa - Silfurberg
Poney Moon
20:00 Mulinn Jazz Club
Thursday, April 27
After Eight: ElĂsabet & DĂa
21:00 BravĂł
ReykjavĂk Queer Choir
20:00 FrĂkirkjan
Prins PĂłlĂł
Birthday Memorial Show
19:30 Gamla BĂĂł
Tragically Unknown
20:00 Gaukurinn
Oyama, Andy Svarthol & LottĂł
21:00 KEX Hostel
RIKK Lecture Series: Challenging Coloniality in Higher Education
12:00 National Museum of Iceland
Carcassonne Tournament
18:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Friday, April 28
Friday Night Party Screening: Singing In The Rain
21:00 BĂĂł ParadĂs
Karaoke Party
20:00 Gaukurinn
Sickneeâs, Flesh Machine, Sucks to be you Nigel & Diamond Dolls
20:00 KEX Hostel
Backstreet Boys
20:00 Laugardalshöll
Vilde Tuv (NOR) & Morita Vargas (ARG)
20:00 Mengi
Saturday, April 29
Jamesen
88 Keys of MagnĂșs
MagnĂșs JĂłhann Concert Festival
April 20 â 23, Mengi
Virtuoso pianist-composer MagnĂșs JĂłhann has been synonymous with quality music since his teens, sought out by great musicians to contribute his talents, and then stepped into his own solo spotlight. Now MagnĂșs brings his best to hosting his own Piano Festival, featuring many of his beloved collaborators and also performing a grand solo show. RX
Metal vs. Metal
Wacken Metal Battle 2023
April 22, Gaukurinn
The Wacken Metal Battle has long been the pinnacle of achievement and validation for metal bands in Iceland, as the winners are sent to Wacken Open Air, the worldâs biggest metal festival. Former battle winners Une MisĂšre and MĂșr will headline, while six bands will go axe to axe for the grand prize. Do some neck rolls, get ready to slam. RX
21:00 BravĂł
Adele Tribute Show
21:00 Harpa - Silfurberg
Móri & AfkvÊmi Guðanna
21:00 KEX Hostel
Sunday, April 30
Valdimar 20:00 BĂŠjarbĂĂł
Sunday Club 21:00 BravĂł
Laura Secord, Sucks to be you Nigel & Morita Vargas (ARG)
18:00 R6013
Go Afternoon Meetup 12:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Lalli Magic Show
12:00 & 14:00 TjarnabĂĂł
Monday, May 1
ArtBeat Festival 10:30 IĂNĂ
Magic the Gathering Commander Meetup
18:00 Spilavinir Spilakaffi
Tuesday, May 2
ArtBeat Festival 10:30 IĂNĂ
Wednesday, May 3
DesignTalks 2023
9:00 Harpa - Silfurberg
ArtBeat Festival 10:30 IĂNĂ
DavĂð ĂĂłr & EyĂŸĂłr Gunnarsson
20:00 MĂșlinn Jazz Club
Thursday, May 4
Hausar DJ Set 21:00 BravĂł
Jethro Tull
20:00 Harpa - Eldborg
ArtBeat Festival 10:30 IĂNĂ
RIKK Lecture Series: Looking in the Mirror to Find the Future
12:00 National Museum of Iceland
community that he built will celebrate his greatness and his legacy
LISTINGS
Art Exhibitions
Gallery openings, happenings, showings and pop-up exhibitions all around the capital region
If You Want To Destroy My Sweater
ĂrĂșrarĂ - NĂŠrvera (Presence)
April 28 â August 27, Museum Of Design & Applied Art
Textile designer Ăr JĂłhannsdĂłttir has been creating delightfully bizarre and unique knit works under the name ĂrĂșrarĂ since 2012. In her first major solo exhibition, ĂrĂșrarĂâs experiments with recycled unsalable sweaters become playground and laboratory, displaying her work and her actively working on a massive, growing piece of knit-art over the coming months. RX

GallerĂ Fold
OPENING
Höggmyndagarðurinn
LoungĂŠ
Sculpture.
Artists Hlökk ĂrastardĂłttir & Sindri Leifsson envision the term "lounge" as sitting rooms, especially in hotels or offices, but also in the sense of hanging out.
Opens April 15
Runs until April 29
ONGOING
Ăsmundarsalur
Helga Sif Guðmundsdóttir:
Reflection
Light-sensitive artworks
Runs until April 25
Yelena Arakelow: Waiting for a Dance Sound installation
Runs until April 25
Emma Heiðarsdóttir:
Light Switch Sculpture
Runs until April 27
Ăsmundarsafn
Ăsmundur Sveinsson & Sigga Björg:
Breath on a Window
Sculpture and multimedia
Runs until May 7
Ăsmundur Sveinsson & Carl Milles
Sculpture
Runs until May 21
BERG Contemporary
Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir:
Schemes
Large-scale paper installations
Runs until April 22
Café Pysja
Eggið, vĂŠngir & kanĂna
Sculpture and installation
Runs through April
Einar JĂłnsson Museum
Einar JĂłnsson:
Sculpture Works & Garden
Sculpture
Permanent exhibition
TĂłta Forever

House of Van Helzing
April 15 â 23, Slökkvistöðin
People, They Ainât No Goo
Egill Logi JĂłnasson - We are bad people. Iâm a bad person.

April 13 â 29, Portfolio Galler
To The Lighthous
15 nautical miles
April 22 â 29, GrĂłttuviti, Seltjarnarnes
Entering the exhibition
The House of Van Helzing, is entering the world of an artist in practice. Balls of yarn in plastic boxes, unfinished works of wearable art. TĂłta Van Helzing sadly passed away in December 2021, but the unique works of textile art that she made in her 31 years live on in a world of their own. RX
ĂĂłrunn BĂĄra BjörnsdĂłttir:
Foldarskart
Paintings
Runs until April 15
Gallerà Göng
AldĂs ĂvarsdĂłttir:
Colourblind
Paintings
Runs until through April
Gallery GrĂĄsteinn
Gerardus Marie
Groenemeijer: Broken
Stones Paintings
Runs until April 27
GallerĂ GrĂłtta
ElĂn ĂĂłra RafnsdĂłttir:
Samofið
Paintings
Runs until April 15
GallerĂ Listval Eva Schram: When the Light Dies
Photography Runs until May 3
Gallery Port
HalldĂłr Sturluson: Surface Paper works Runs until April 20
Berglind Erna TryggvadĂłt-
tir: Tvöfaldur dessert
Mixed media

Runs until April 20
GallerĂ Skilti
Helgi HjaltalĂn EyjĂłlfsson:
Ăið öll
Photographic representa-
tions
Runs until June 15
Gallerà Undirgöng
Helgi HjaltalĂn & PĂ©tur Ărn:
Markmið XVI
Photography
Runs until June 15
Gerðarsafn (Kópavogur Art Museum)
Tracing Fragments Group exhibition, mixed media
Runs until May 21
GlerhĂșsið

Einar Garibaldi EirĂksson: ReykjavĂk / A Guide
Installation Runs until June 11
Hafnarborg Center of Culture and Fine Art
Uncanny Virtuality
Digital art, mixed media
Runs until May 29
JĂłhann VilhjĂĄlmsson: Written Images
Drawings
Runs until May 29
HafnarhĂșs
D-47 Logi LeĂł Gunnarsson
Mixed media, installation Runs until May 7
Kaleidoscope âInternational Collection
Multidisciplinary, select works from permanent collection
Runs until May 7
ErrĂł: Freehand
ErrĂłâs early freehand works meet his later collage-based works
Runs until May 31
ErrĂł: Cunning Scissors Works spanning the entirety of ErrĂłâs vibrant art
career Runs until December 31
Harpa Circuleight
Mixed media installation Runs until April 30
i8 Gallery
Lawrence Weiner & Birgir
Andrésson: Part I
Installation, sculpture, painting, and work on paper Runs until May 13
i8 Grandi
B. Ingrid Olson: Cast of Mind
Installation, mixed media
Runs until December 20
Kling og Bang
The Magical Home Installation, mixed media
Runs until April 22
He may be a bad person, but heâs a good artist. The visual world of Egill Logi JĂłnasson, aka Drengurinn fengurinn, is like an adult-animation about going on a wild bender. The collection of paintings are bold and vibrant yet somewhat grotesque, full of playfulness and horror, much like life at its best. And worst. RX
Kjarvalstaðir
Kaleidoscope: Icelandic 20th Century Art Paintings, sketches, drafts, and more
Runs until August 7
MosfellsbĂŠr Art Gallery
RĂłsa TraustadĂłttir: Ăhrifavaldur = shinrin yoku
Paintings
Runs until April 15
Museum of Design and Applied Arts
Designer in residency: Ada StaĆczak Ceramic designer working with materials like clay, lava, stone, and soil Runs until May 14
At Home in the Design Museum
Design, blueprints and installation
Runs until 2026
National Gallery of Iceland
The Private Collection
Live cataloguing and exhi bition of mixed media Runs until May 7
Forty Years of The Corridor Fortieth anniversary exhibition of The Corridor
exhibition space Runs until June 4
RĂșrĂ: Glassrain Installation
Runs until September 17
Nordic House HOW DID I GET TO THE BOMBSHELTER Multidisciplinary group exhibition
Runs until May 14
NĂœlistasafnið
Amanda Riffo: House of Purkinje Installation, mixed media Runs until April 30
Phenomenon Gallery
Brynjar Helgason: Phenomenology Mixed media Runs until April 30
ReykjavĂk Museum of Photography
Christopher Taylor: Presence
Photography Runs until April 23
JĂłn Helgi PĂĄlmason: As the Image Fades
Photography
Runs until April 23
This group exhibition at the iconic GrĂłtta lighthouse is a site-specific show with works that honour the famous beacon through many artistic forms â video works, installations, text, performance, and more. Through process-oriented collaboration, they shed light on forgotten stories, the hidden life, and the symbolic meaning of the place. RX
SigurjĂłn Ălafsson
Museum
The Gift of Children
Paintings
Runs until Autumn 2023
From Various Sources
Sculpture

Runs until Autumn 2023
Sumac Restaurant
Augnablikin:
LeiðarvĂsir Augnablika
Photography and Paintings
Permanent exhibition
Ăula
Maria Wandel: Not Keeping Journal
Paintings
Runs until April 15
Sigga Björg
First Place In Our Hearts
Krakkaveldi gives 12 points to Celebs
Words: Margrét Aðalgeirsdóttir, Sóley Hulda Nielsen Viðarsdóttir & Borghildur Lukka Kolbeinsdóttir
Images: Art Bicnick
Though itâs DiljĂĄâs âPowerâ that will rep Iceland at Eurovision this year, another band won the hearts of three young journalists. MargrĂ©t, SĂłley and Borghildur picked the brains of siblings Valgeir Skorri Vernharðsson and Katla VigdĂs VernharðsdĂłttir from the band Celebs.


How did you decide to participate in Söngvakeppnin?
Valgeir: Last summer we were playing in the Westfjords when my brother Hrafnkell started talking about the idea of participating. He didnât think weâd like the idea but we thought it was a great.
Katla: There we met a man who controls everything in RĂVâs programming, which cartoons are played and everything, and he told us to participate. He was thinking about it, we were thinking about it, so everything clicked together.
What do you think is your most impressive song youâve made?
Katla: I would probably say âDoomsday Dancingâ (their Eurovision submission) because we wrote it in a fun way. We were all together and we thought so much about every part of the song, which was kind of fun, to always be improving and practising this much.
Are you writing any new songs?
Katla: Yes, we wrote a new song the other day which weâre going to release, maybe weâll do a video too. Arenât you excited?
Margrét, Sóley & Borghildur: YES!
Why is the band called Celebs?
Katla: We were joking around about the fact that we live in such a small town where everybody knows each other. There are maybe 300 people in Suðureyri â your school has probably more kids than residents there. So when we started a band and somebody wrote an article about us, we became a bit famous in our tiny village.
Valgeir: In Suðureyri, everybody knows everybody, so technically everyone is a bit famous there.

Where is the party monster?

Katla: Weâre not sure! The party monster showed up out of nowhere and we didnât have a clue who the monster was. Then we got chatting and it said it lived in Iceland and we asked it if it wanted to join us onstage.
The girls: We donât believe you.
Valgeir (laughing): You donât? Weâre going to try and play a bit next summer and if we see you at the show we can introduce you!
EUROVISION
Embracing Her Power
We caught up with DiljĂĄ before she conquers Liverpool
Words: JakobĂna LĂła SverrisdĂłttir & NĂna MarĂn AndradĂłttir Images: Supplied
Diljå is a 21-year-old singer from Kópavogur who will be representing Iceland at the 2023 Eurovision Song Contest. She has one brother; asks for raspberries, salty licorice flakes, and cookie dough in her bragðarefur; and can listen to the Polish Eurovision contribution from 2022 on repeat.
What is most exciting about participating in Eurovision?
Itâs probably the opportunity, knowing that so many will listen to me and see what Iâm doing.
Are you nervous about performing for this many people?
Not a bit. I think Iâve finished my share of stress for my lifetime. Iâve stopped experiencing stress. I took it all out in one go some time ago and now I can always see the positive side of things. Of course, I realised I was nervous and never did anything to help me but I never had control of it and somehow, all of a sudden, Iâve managed to control it and can shut the anxiety off because I know itâs just going to ruin things for
when it was announced, it swept over me that it couldnât be happening and I needed to wake up. Iâve often dreamt these types of dreams and then wake up and realise it was âone of thoseâ. I lost complete sense of reality for the next few days. Iâm even still feeling a certain high over it all.
Eurovision songs. If itâs enough that the song is written for the purpose of entering Eurovision, even though it doesnât move forward, then my favourite is âStatementsâ by Loreen. It competed in the 2017 Melodifestival, but didnât get through to Eurovision. But my favourite Eurovision song that actually entered the competition is
me and others.
What was your favourite Eurovision song from last year?
Probably Sweden, âHold me Closerâ by Cornelia Jakobs. I thought it was fabulous.

What was your initial thought or reaction when you were announced as the winner of Söngvakeppnin? It was 100% the feeling that this couldnât be happening for real. I always believed it could happen but
Was your song written in Icelandic or English?
It was originally written in English and I like it better that way. Then we wrote the Icelandic lyrics in three days before the deadline. There was a bit of a time pressure around that.
Whatâs your favourite Eurovision song of all time?
It depends on what you define as
âAmar Pelos Doisâ by Salvador Sobral, which won in 2017.
But finally: Itâs been your dream since you were a kid to compete in the Eurovision Song Contest. Do you have any advice for people or kids who want to make their dreams come true?
Yes, itâs just about continuing doing what you do. For a person whoâs anxiety-ridden, like I was, it was extremely difficult at times but I was determined in not allowing my shadows to stand in the way of what I actually wanted to do. So really, no matter how scary your dream seems, if you donât want

âIt was extremely difficult at times but I was determined in not allowing my shadows to stand in the way of what I actually wanted to do.ââ
âI lost complete sense of reality for the next few days. Iâm even still feeling a certain high over it all.ââ
Nokkur Góð
Ten Years of Sonic Supremacy
Words: JĂłhannes Bjarkason & ĂĂłrir Georg
Image: Supplied by ĂĂłrir Georg
ĂĂłrir Georg is a name that needs no introduction to avid followers of the Icelandic music scene. A prolific artist spanning multiple genres and decades, ĂĂłrir has championed the indie-rock and hardcore scene for years, developing a cult following.
ĂĂłrirâs Nokkur Góð (A Few Good Ones, in English) is his first of at least two releases this year. With plans to also drop a black metal album under the stage moniker Ăreiða in May, one wonders how many hours are in ĂĂłrirâs day.
Nokkur Góð is a compilation of songs recorded between 2009 and 2019, originally released by independent labels. ĂĂłrirâs lo-fi production and soundscape work excellently within the indie-rock, pop and punk framework of his music. ReykjavĂk Record Shop released 250 copies of the album on vinyl on April 14. ĂĂłrir Georg had a few words to say about the albumâs songs.

Ten Years
Originally released on the I am the

obviously a dumb play on the Queen song title âWe Are The Championsâ. I always thought it was incredibly funny to be a band and write a song called âWe Are The Championsâ and I wanted to reference that somehow. The song references a song from my first solo album that was released 11 years prior to this EP. As the name of the song perhaps implies though, it was written a year before the EP got released.
Idiot Song
A song from an album of mine called RĂŠfill. The lyrics are about how frustrating I find most public discourse of art here in Iceland a lot of the time.
Fastur
The most recently released song on this compilation. Only released digitally as a single. âFasturâ translates as âstuckâ and the chorus alludes to being stuck inside your own head â something I felt like I struggled with a lot. Turns out Iâm just autistic.
Skiptir Engu
From my album JanĂșar ; an album that
nihilism. The name of the song translates as âIt doesnât matterâ.
Ălulykt
The smell of vomit. My ode to ReykjavĂk nightlife as a perpetually sober person. From the EP of the same name.

Greifarnir
Greifarnir are a legendary Icelandic pop group from my hometown of HĂșsavĂk. I particularly recommend their 1987 banger âĂyrnirĂłs.â Another choice pick from my album RĂŠfill
Segðu Bless
From the Ălulykt EP. Like a lot of my songs, itâs about having a hard time dealing with reality.
Hunger
A song I had forgotten all about. It was released on a compilation of Icelandic artists called Iceland Whatever. I found it going through an old hard drive and you know what, itâs pretty good.
Ekki Neitt
Another song from the nihilistic JanĂșar. The title translates as ânothing.â Figures.
Years and Years
The only song on here from my album Pantophobic. It perhaps has a mellower vibe than most songs on the album, but I felt it fits. Pantophobia is the fear of everything.
Ask Yourself
The first song off of my album RĂŠfill We tend to feel a lot of things and have a lot of opinions without ever questioning them. I think itâs healthy for everyone to second-guess themselves once in a while.
Never Ever
Another song from the I am the champions EP. Itâs about having a constant stream of music playing in your head at all times. Some of itâs made up, and some of it is music youâve heard somewhere. Some of it is good, and a lot of it bad. But I wouldnât want it any other way. This song is a bit of a banger, but then again, all 12 songs are.
Current Kids, Future Musicians
The Upbeatâs role in fostering childrenâs creativity

Near ReykjavĂk harbour stands Harpa, the crown jewel of Icelandic culture and music. Concerts, conferences, parties  you name it, Harpa does it all. Itâs a grand concert hall, home of the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera and various other musical endeavours, including the childrenâs creative prize Upptakturinn, or The Upbeat.
Every year, in celebration of the Childrenâs Culture Festival of ReykjavĂk, about a dozen kids premiere a musical composition within Harpaâs opulent walls. Although, if you were to stumble


Bending the rules
into the concert without any prior knowledge of the festival, youâd probably think the pieces were composed by full-fledged, tax-paying adults.
Kids in grades five through 10 are encouraged to apply with their own musical ideas. If shortlisted, they compose their piece in collaboration with professional musicians, who help polish and refine their work. Students from the Icelandic University of Arts (LHĂ) ultimately perform the pieces with an assist from some of the countryâs most famous performing artists â think BrĂet, GDRN or JĂłnas Sig.
As project manager of the Upbeat, Elfa Lilja GĂsladĂłttir has worked diligently, developing the project since its inception in 2012. Upon meeting at her office, Elfa was preparing an evening of activities with this yearâs young participants, which include a photo shoot. âYouâre more than welcome to come,â she told me. I was grateful for the offer, but our in-house photographer was busy and I couldnât operate a camera to save my life.
The Upbeat was originally the brainchild of opera director Steinunn Birna RagnarsdĂłttir, who saw an opportu-

nity to diversify the music landscape through encouraging collaboration between Harpa, ReykjavĂk Music City, RĂV and the LHĂ. âI want to emphasise that itâs important to maintain this collaboration, not to be an island, because the more professionals that participate, the stronger and deeper roots these pieces acquire.â
In addition to this collaboration, the Upbeat also cooperates with cultural institutions in other parts of the country. âThe northeastern region has their own Upbeat in Akureyri. The east region does activity programmes in the fall, which we then select one from to produce in the ReykjavĂk Upbeat. Weâve also had kids from the west, which is not an official partner. But Harpa is the cultural centre of all the countryâs kids, so weâve decided to not be fixed on the rules. [We] bend the rules so the child enjoys the benefit of the doubt. The other stuff is just formalities that the grown-ups need to figure out.â
A child all grown up
Through the ongoing development of the project, the Upbeat has experienced a transformation of its status in the Icelandic music scene. âWe started this project with very limited funds and by volunteering a lot of our time,â Elfa explains. âWe decided very early to try something new each time, so little by little, the Upbeat has grown. Weâve stopped being the youngest child and have started directly affecting the Icelandic music scene.â
âThese kids have this amazing experience and many of them continue to do great things in the music industry,â Elfa says, emphasising the scope of the projectâs supporters. âAll of our collaborators are tremendously important, and Harpa manages the group beautifully. Weâve also enjoyed neverending support from musicians.â
Talking about the futures of the Upbeatâs participants, Elfa mentions that many of the past participants are now grown up and continue to help the project, either as performers, composers, or instrumentalists. âI call them our Upbeat kids.â
Past participants include Guðlaug Sóley Höskuldsdóttir, stage name gugusar, who received the Best Performer of the Year Award at the
Icelandic Music Awards last March. âGugusar wrote one of her first musical works in the Upbeat. So itâs fun to experience this development. When we showed up we were the little kid, but now we have grown up and are following these individuals, proud to have been able to give them the support they needed,â Elfa says.
The selection committee consists of a panel of renowned musicians Ragnhildur GĂsladĂłttir, Unnsteinn Manuel, Tryggvi M. Baldvinsson, and Ăsa DĂœradĂłttir. âThey bring all their specialities and backgrounds to the table, with endless respect for the kids. Thatâs what I cherish,â Elfa adds.
Music that provokes
While Harpa seems like an intimidating venue in which to take your first steps in music, Elfa sees it as the kidsâ right. âItâs often said that children inherit the land. Of course they will, but 25% of the Icelandic population are children aged 18 years old and below. Itâs their right to be able to enjoy culture and arts, just like adults. At the same time, itâs the grown-ups who control this ship. We must be conscious of increasing accessibility for the kids. No child knocks at Harpa and asks, âAre you going to perform my music?â So, with all our wisdom and experience, we need to open those doors and provide children with access.â
Asked about participation, Elfa says that the number of applicants varies between years. This year, approximately 70 children applied. The most itâs seen is 90. âIâm certain that we are reaching the kids that are interested. Some are interested in sports, others in visual arts. Here we are giving a platform to children who are playing and working with music. A lot of them come from school bands and music schools, but weâre also reaching out to kids through afterschool programs and youth centres. Weâve even received applications from people whoâve never touched an instrument in their life. Thereâs no requirement for musical knowledge. Of course, children who come from a musical background have an edge in terms of tools and resources. But thatâs not necessary for success. The committee is looking for something new, something creative. Music that provokes.â
âNo child knocks at Harpa and asks, âAre you going to perform my music?ââ
Accessibility and opportunity
Speaking about accessibility, according to figures from Statistics Iceland, approximately 15% of students in Icelandic primary schools are not native Icelandic speakers. Going into the interview, I wanted to know more about what is done to encourage the participation of those children. âItâs something that we are aware of. Just today, I was figuring out how to arrange communications with a childâs family that speaks neither Icelandic nor English. It involves a great deal of cooperation between different parties. Children come in on their own terms, but itâs also imperative for teachers, after-school workers, music teachers and family members to participate in this journey with the child. Weâve had many children from an international background partici-
Music) Awards last year. Subsequently, compositions from four Upbeat participants were chosen to be performed by the City Chamber Orchestra of Hong Kong,â she proudly told me as she opened up the orchestraâs webpage. âThis is how the Upbeat projects are able to have a future of their own.â
The Upbeat will be held on April 18 as part of the opening Ceremony of the Childrenâs Culture Festival of ReykjavĂk.
Send Your Stuffies On The Adventure Of Their Lives
A new travel agency gives beloved teddy bears a chance to experience Iceland

Words: Catharine Fulton Images: Stock
Weâve heard of a teddy bear hospital. Weâve attended a teddy bear picnic or two in our day. But a teddy travel agency was new to us. So when it came to our attention that
Kidarchy participant Jakob Friðrik Jakobsson had launched a new business providing oncein-a-lifetime travel experiences to teddy bears
from around the world, we were intrigued.
To those who know Jakob, a teddy-themed business idea didnât come as a surprise. The adults behind Kidarchy tell me the 11-year old is seldom seen without a favourite stuffy in tow. It turns out the reason for that is quite simple, as Jakob
pate before, which is just fantastic.â
Elfa reiterates that the whole selection process is anonymous, and judges select participants based on their musical and creative talents, as opposed to potential biassing factors.
As a testament to the Upbeatâs success, right after our interview, Elfa was preparing to meet with the consul of Hong Kong. âWe won the international YAM (Young Audiences
explains, âteddies are very likeable and cute.â
It all began with an idea
Jakob got the idea for starting a teddy travel agency from a cousin who thought it would be a fun idea, as well as from his own lifelong love of taking his own beloved stuffed animals on trips â their favourite place to go is on airplanes and to London to visit Hamleys and Build-A-Bear. We can only assume Jakobâs parents are happy to pay for extra baggage allowance because the young entrepreneur tells us âmy bags are full of teddiesâ when he travels.
Motivation aside, what is a teddy travel agency?
On his Facebook page âTeddy Travel Iceland.â
Jakob explains that itâs a one-of-a-kind travel agency for teddy bears and other soft friends of yours.â He explains that, as an avid collector and lover of stuffed animals, he will take the best of care of any stuffies entrusted to his care,
shuttling them around to the hottest spot in ReykjavĂk, like HallgrĂmskirkja, Tjörnin pond, galleries and exhibitions, cafes and restaurants, and more. They may even get a peek at the Icelandic education system by following young Jakob to school.

How it all works
Once arrangements have been made with the teddy bear connoisseur, customers simply have to ship their beloved bear to ReykjavĂk, where it will be toured around town, put up at night in its own bed and maybe even make friends with Jakobâs favourite teddy Minta, a green bear who wears reading glasses. Jakob will send photos of his guestsâ adventures back to their owners and, after a few days, carefully pack them back up to return home with great new life experiences.
Just think, for the cost of postage your beloved stuffed bear, cat, bunny or platypus can become a bonafide world traveller. Act now and you might even be Jakobâs first customer â hey, everybodyâs got to start somewhere.
â[We] bend the rules so the child enjoys the benefit of the doubt. The other stuff is just formalities that the grown-ups need to figure out.â
A Cross-Country Comedy (a.k.a. Skiing)
There are a few things that donât go together: pineapple and pizza, crying babies and airplanes, me and sports. Iâve always struggled to find a sport I could truly enjoy for the longterm. Iâve dabbled in jogging, badminton, snowboarding and even surfing, but nothing ever quite sticks. When I came across an advertisement for a cross-country skiing course in Ăsafjörður, I promised myself: âThis is the one Iâm trying next.â A few months later, amidst sub-zero temperatures in Iceland, I teamed up with a rather hesitant colleague, and embarked on a journey up north to learn how to (crosscountry) ski.
Cross-country skiing 101
The first thing you need to know about cross-country skiing is that you can forget everything you know about downhill skiing. Despite looking like youâre taking a casual stroll in hilariously long clown shoes, cross-country skiing is actually a full-body workout that engages a number of muscles. The skills and techniques are totally different. Consider it a boot camp for your body. Itâs really hard, ok? Donât pretend I didnât warn you.
Now that youâre prepared to challenge your body and soul, letâs talk about other essentials: clothing and shoes. Ditch your snow jacket and pants, and opt for lightweight puffer jackets and
wool leggings. Remember that youâre in Iceland, and the weather is and will be unpredictable, so having multiple layers of clothing is key. A significant benefit is that cross-country skiing shoes are actually comfy. According to my colleague, theyâre âtoo comfortableâ â as an alpine skier, she was confused by the unseen before feet flexibility.
Ready, set, ski



When it comes to cross-country skiing in Iceland, there are multiple options. But this time, weâre interested in the countryâs best cross-country skiing area, famed for the annual international cross-country skiing race Fossavatnsgangan â Seljalandsdalur, in Ăsafjörður. My publisher reassures me that once I call myself a pro, I can aim for the five-day cross-country ski trail in Landmannalaugar. (I abandon this dream very soon).

The largest town in Icelandâs least populated area, the Westfjords, lies 419 km from the capital. According to Google Maps, it takes over five hours to get to Ăsafjörður from ReykjavĂk by car. If you opt for driving, be prepared to spend more time behind the wheel â youâll find lots of steep, curvy roads on your way that can be challenging to navigate. Donât get fooled by one sunny day in the south â up north, itâs still windy and snowy, with some areas being in danger of avalanches. Another option, though considerably more pricey, is to fly. There are direct flights from ReykjavĂk Airport to Ăsafjörður twice a day. This is the option we chose â and trust me, there arenât many things more satisfying than showing up at the airport less than an hour before departure, and still having time for a coffee and a snack. Fast forward 35 minutes, and a sturdy
Icelandair 20-seater plane lands in the Westfjords. Our adventure is soon to begin!
Life in hibernation
On the day of arrival, the first ski training was scheduled for the evening, so we had some time to kill. It didnât take long to realise that Ăsafjörður in winter is practically deserted.
We aimlessly wandered around town, stumbling into âClosed for winterâ signs in almost every sightseeing spot we wanted to visit. At some point, we thought about checking out the local pool, but were quickly discouraged by some of the fellow ski course participants â âThe pool is much better in BolungarvĂk.â Having no car on this trip, we couldnât prove this claim and eventually ended at Heimabyggð, the cosiest little coffee house that also serves small bites, soup and a dish of the day (also, one of the few places open off-season). By sheer coincidence, we also visited the local Heritage Museum. Of course, it was closed at the time, but our ski instructor, who also works at the local information center simply handed us the keys. (This only proves my theory that everyone in Iceland either has more than one job, or theyâre lying.)
Once it was time to go, the hotelâs reliable driver, SĂłfus, arrived to take us to the ski area. Before we could start skiing, we had to choose the appropriate equipment. While most of our group had brought their own crosscountry skis, we were not as prepared. Half an hour later, with the assistance of the friendly ski area staff, we were ready to hit the slopes.
We went to Ăsafjörður to master cross-country skiing, but successfully failedWords: Iryna Zubenko Images: Gitte Van der Meersch
âThe first time you try walking in cross-country skis, it can feel like being a baby giraffe taking its first steps.â


âItâs all about the balance,â says our ski
âPure magic! Once you need to go uphill, things get trickier.â
HOT TAKES
Nine Fun Experiences in ReykjavĂk



This 14-year-old knows all the best stuff to see and do
Words: MagnĂșs Sigurður JĂłnasson Images: Art Bicnick
So youâre new to ReykjavĂk and youâre not sure where to eat, what to see or places to go?

Maggiâs got you covered. Here are his top picks for an amazing time in Icelandâs only city.
Arabian Taste
Itâs some of if not the best place to get food in ReykjavĂk. It is Syrian cuisine and has some amazing dishes. Itâs open long into the night too so if you are coming straight from a flight you could probably catch a bite there. Personal favourites are the falafel wraps and arayes chicken.
Improv Ăsland
A comedy event in ReykjavĂk held at ĂŸjóðleikhĂșsið every Wednesday. Icelandâs up and coming comedians come together to improvise funny sketches. Every show is completely improvised so you can go as many times as you want.
Sundhöllin
This is the best swimming pool in ReykjavĂk. It has a cosy indoor pool with a high diving platform, though I should note that the diving platform isnât always open. The pool also has
four different hot tubs, a sauna and a cold tub. The outdoor pool is great too.

GrjĂłtaĂŸorp
One of the most beautiful places in the city is GrjĂłtaĂŸorp. Located just above ReykjavĂkâs city centre, itâs an extremely cosy and fun area to walk around. The houses are colourful and there is greenery everywhere. It is an amazing place for a photo op and to get a feel of ReykjavĂkâs past. GrjĂłtaĂŸorp is located just above ReykjavĂk city centre.
BĂĂł ParadĂs
Do you ever get the itch to watch a classic film or see an exciting foreign film that might not be shown in most cinemas. BĂĂł ParadĂs is the perfect place for you. They hold film festivals a couple times a year, like German days, Stockfish and RIFF.
ĂskjuhlĂð
This forested area of ReykjavĂk is known for its war remains and Perlan. Perlan is one of Icelandâs premiere landmarks as it is a dome built on top of a bunch of drained out water tanks. Perlan currently hosts a nature museum, which is a must see.

NauthĂłlsvĂk
This is ReykjavĂkâs only beach. It is quite cosy and you can either go into the heated ocean area or run into the ice cold water beside the beach area. It can also be the perfect end to a visit to ĂskjuhlĂð.

FlyOver Iceland
This is a 4d cinema experience where you get to feel what itâs like to be on a plane flying over Iceland. As a disclaimer the ride opens with 15 minutes of some clichĂ© Viking guy and

a troll, but otherwise this is a must see experience.
Hamborgarafabrikkan
Also commonly known as âHamborgarapaprikan,â this is a restaurant in ReykjavĂk commonly visited on birthdays as they give ice cream to those celebrating. The hamburgers are very tasty and the skyrterta is amazing and a must try.

QUICK PICKS
Take It From The Kids

Krakkaveldi-approved travel destinations to plan Your next adventure around

Words: Krakkaveldi Imag
Youâve read the travel blogs, leafed through the latest Frommers and consulted an oracle. But did you ever think to ask a bunch of kids what areas to visit when in Iceland? We did it for you. Hereâs where the Krakkaveldi kids suggest you go.

âMount Esja, because you are not in the city and you have fresh air and a great view. It is so much fun to gain new energy by walking up a mountain.â
Eldlilja Kaja HeimisdĂłttir, 14
âMy favorite place to travel in Iceland is Ălfusborgir summer house area, because it is close to Geysir and there are a lot of things to do with friends there. Meaning they have many playgrounds and stuff for children to do there.â

Borghildur Lukka KolbeinsdĂłttir, 8 âĂlafsvĂk, because my grandparents live there.â

SĂłley Hulda NĂlsen ViðarsdĂłttir, 8
âI would say ReykjavĂk, because I live in ReykjavĂk.â

Margrét Aðalgeirsdóttir, 8

âMy favorite place is KeflavĂk because from there I can fly away from Iceland.â
Brynja Steinunn Helgesson Danielsen, 12
âAkureyri because it is different from ReykjavĂk. It reminds me of ReykjavĂk but itâs fun to see something different than the capital city.â
Yrsa RĂșn GunnarsdĂłttir, 11
âAkureyri has a crazy swimming pool, a Christmas house, and a big part of my family lives there. They also have the Akureyri botanic garden, which is a great change of scenery.â
NĂna MarĂn AndradĂłttir, 12

SĂłley has tasted McDonaldâs like a thousand, million, trillion, zillion times, both in New York City and once in London. Borghildur first tasted McDonaldâs in Portugal. Thatâs a very nice country. The McDonaldâs in Portugal is right by the beach.





McDonaldâs has better soda, better toys, better french fries and better everything! We think McDonaldâs offers very good food, very good toys, funny dolls and that sort of thing. Itâs just better food than Metro, although SĂłley wants to mention that she has always gotten good food at Metro.
The toys you get at Metro are quick to break and get lost easily. One time, Borghildur got a toy at KFC, which was a squishy dog, and it got destroyed the very next day! A friend of SĂłleyâs got a springy toy once at Metro and was super happy with it, but when she woke the next day, it was lost. Borghildurâs sister also got a spring at Metro, but lost it before the family got home!
That one time when SĂłley went to McDonaldâs in London â youâre not gonna believe this â there were NO CHAIRS. It was extremely uncomfortable for peopleâs feet. Some people were lying on the tables because they had stood for so long. Thatâs at least


one point for Metro.





Thereâs actually a playground at Metro in Iceland, so thatâs OK. Children are taken care of in these fast food restaurants; itâs a fun experience for them. Thereâs even more McDonaldâs places in the world, but thereâs no Metro anywhere else other than in Iceland. We donât understand why McDonaldâs closed in Iceland. We would be happy with having both Metro and McDonaldâs. That would be a good compromise!

Here
with the
JĂRGENSEN KITCHEN & BAR Mon, Tues, Wed 16:00 - 18:00, Thursday from 16:00 - 20:00, Weekends from 12:00 to 18:00.

750 ISK, Wine 900 ISK.
JUNGLE COCKTAIL BAR
Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 900 ISK, Wine 1000 ISK Cocktails 1600 ISK.
KAFFI LĂKUR
Every day from 16:00 to 19:00 & 22:00 to 23:00 on Tue-Sat Beer 890 ISK, Wine 1050 ISK.
KOFINN BAR
Every day from 12:00 to 19:00. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 1000 ISK.
KALDI
Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 950 ISK, Wine 950 ISK.
LOFT
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00.
Beer 860 ISK, Wine 950 ISK.
LĂLA FLORENS Every day from 15:00 to 18:00. Beer 1000 ISK, Wine 1000 ISK.

LUNA FLORENS
Tue-Sat from 15:00 to 18:00. Beer 1000 ISK, Wine 1000 ISK. Discount or a free appetiser.
PETERSEN SVĂTAN
Every day from 16:00 to 19:00.
Beer 850 ISK Wine 1100 ISK.
PRIKIĂ
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00.
Beer 700 ISK,
SLIPPBARINN
Every day from 15:00 to 18:00.
Beer 1000 ISK, Wine 1000 ISK.
SPILAKAFFI
Every day from 17:00 to 19:00.
Beer 850 ISK.
STĂDENT-
AKJALLARINN
Everyday from 16:00 to 19:00
Beer
to 18:00.
Beer 990 ISK, Wine 1090 ISK.
SKĂLI CRAFT
Every day from 12:00 to 19:00.
Beer 900 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. Happy hour includes four selected tap beers
Hverfisgata12
Featured
Happy hour / 4â7pm
Beer / Wine / Cocktails
Whatâs better than going to the record store and listening to some tunes? Going to the record store and listening to some tunes while drinking a delicious craft beer, thatâs what! Ever since this legendary record shop added a bar a couple of years ago, itâs become a perfect place for a chill evening drink. Their roster of DJs keep things spicy with their unique array of playlists, ranging from making you wanna get up and dance to making you say âWTFâ â but in a good way! The beer selection is great and with the weather getting nicer (knock on wood), the back garden is soon to be a delightful respite from the downtown bustle. Oh, and you can also buy albums.
Happy hours: Every day from 14:00 - 19:00
REVIEW
We All Scream!
Itâs the kidsâ choice ice cream battle royale
Words: Krakkaveldi & Catharine Fulton Images: Art Bicnick

Itâs been a week since the Krakkaveldi kids descended on Grapevine HQ for the ultimate ice cream taste test and this place is still a sticky mess. But itâs all worth it, because eating copious amounts of ice cream is fun and because it got results. Well⊠it got opinions. Varied, sometimes nonsensical opinions. The kids sampled 10 flavours of ice cream and gelato, rating each on a scale of one to 10. Hereâs how it went.
Valdis: Salted Caramel â 9/10
The first scoop of the tasting elicited happy sounds from all the kids at the table. We were off to a strong start.
Eldlilja: âItâs very salty.â
Yrsa: âI think itâs a perfect flavour. But it can be a little bit less sweet I think, just a little bit.â
Borghildur: âAt first I thought it was 11/10, now I think itâs 9.â
ValdĂs: Raspberry â 9.5/10
Another flavour unanimously enjoyed by the young food critics. When one adult at the tasting dared to question whether it tasted slightly artificial, they were rebuked. As NĂna clapped back: âKids donât mind artificial taste, weâre used to it.â
ValdĂs: Danish Liquorice â 3/10
The flavour of liquorice has always been divisive, and that held true during the Krakkaveldi tasting. Some testers were unsure what they were eating, others finished every bite, and others still promptly scraped the contents of their bowl into the trash.
Borghildur: âI think this one is coffee.â
SĂłley: âOne time my grandma gave me coffee ice cream.â
Borghildur, SĂłley, MargrĂ©t: âWhereâs
the trash? Itâs zerooooooooooooooo.â
Brynja: âI love liquorice.â
Yrsa: âThe aftertaste is not very good.â
MargrĂ©t: âI want more of the raspberry.â
ValdĂs: Chocolate â 5/10
At this point in the tasting, the adults in the room questioned whether we had stumbled into an alternate reality in which children universally detest chocolate.
MargrĂ©t: âI hate chocolate.â
SĂłley: âNo more chocolate.â
Yrsa: âI think this is definitely 10 but I think they could have used milk chocolate. This is very chocolatey.â
SĂłley: âChocolate gets a four.â
ValdĂs: Mint Chocolate Chip â 5/10
After proclaiming the next flavour as my own personal favourite, it was particularly heartbreaking to hear a chorus of little voices uttering their displeasure and drawing comparisons to toothpaste.
Eldlilja: âZero.â
Brynja: âI love mint chocolate.â
Borghildur, SĂłley, MargrĂ©t: âNOOOOOOOOOOOOO.â (MargrĂ©t mimics being ill.) âItâs zero. Below zero.â

Yrsa: 10/10
ValdĂs: Strawberry â 3/10
File this under the same mystery as the kids not enjoying the chocolate ice cream; a classic strawberry scoop also fell flat.
MargrĂ©t: âI think itâs bubble gum.â
Yrsa: âIt looks cheap.â
Brynja: âItâs like strawberry medicine. Itâs medicine that tastes like strawberry but doesnât taste like strawberry at all.â
Borghildur: âCan I have more?â
and 1000/10
Perhaps our young taste-testers had overworked their taste buds by this point, but their review started to take a turn for the loopy.
Yrsa: âThis is so good. Itâs 1000 out of 10. (30 seconds later) The aftertaste is a little too much. 4/10 for me.â
Brynja: âStracciatellaaaaa!â (Editorâs note: it was not, in fact, stracciatella)
Eldlilja: âIt reminds me of bananas.â
Gaeta: Strawberry
Cheesecake â 8/10
Gaetaâs flavours were the bigger hit for the adults in the room, but they continued to confound the youths.
Brynja: âIt tastes exactly like strawberry jam. That is strawberry cheesecake! Strawberry cheesecake, yoghourt, with jam and strawberries. Iâd give it a solid 8.â

Yrsa: âIt tastes like strawberry yoghourt. Itâs not good.â
Eldlilja: âVery. Weird. Jam.â
Gaeta: Stracciatella â 6/10
When ordering gelato, one has to try a classic stracciatella. The kids, however, were thrown off by the sparsity of chocolate shavings, and a heated debate ensued over whether this was actually stracciatella or more of the Oreo flavour sampled earlier.
Brynja: âItâs stracciatella again. The other one wasnât stracciatella. How was I wrong?!â
SĂłley: âItâs fine.â
Yrsa: âThey didnât do a good job at doing Oreo.â (Editorâs note: because this one wasnât Oreo)
Gaeta: Mango â 10/10
Ah, the final scoop of the tasting session. Some young reviewers were totally ice creamed out, others were demanding seconds of their favourite flavours. The experiment ends on a high note, with Gaetaâs fresh mango gelato hitting a home run with everyone.
Brynja: âThis is my childhood in one bite. I am mango.â
Yrsa: âThatâs perfect out of 10.â
Borghildur: âI love it.â
MUSIC (AGAIN)
Even though the first day of summer is April 20, the first days of spring truly roll in during MĂșsĂktilraunir. An incubator of new music, its role is to celebrate the up and coming diversity and creativity of the local music scene. Since 1984, the Hitt HĂșsið youth centre has organised five nights of sound, lighting and stage management with the aim of making the experience as professional as possible for the countryâs aspiring musicians. Itâs a standard many who win the annual battle of the bands grow accustomed to as they graduate into successful careers in the industry â MĂșsĂktilraunir alums include the likes of Samaris, Of Monsters and Men, and Vök.
Once the dust of this yearâs production settled on April 1, the winners were the all-female alt-rock band FĂłkus.

Hailing from Höfn à Hornafjörður and Selfoss in South Iceland, the band remarked onstage about the 400 km distance between members making scheduling band practise a difficult
task. Singer Amylee Trindade, bassist Alexandra Hernandez, pianist Anna LĂĄra GrĂ©tarsdĂłttir, keyboard player Pia Wrede and drummer Arnbjörg Ăr SigurðardĂłttir are all between 16- and 18-years old, but they clearly draw influence from 90s alt-rock artists. Think Alanis Morrisette, but rougher.
An obsolete framework
There is no fair conversation to be had about MĂșsĂktilraunir without discussing its organisation and power dynamics. MĂșsĂktilraunir is organised by Hitt HĂșsið, which itself is a subdepartmental institution of the City of ReykjavĂk. Itâs a not-for-profit event, where everyone volunteers their time. Two bands advance on each night of the competition, one selected by the judges, the other by the audience. A key feature of the competition is the age limit â no participant is over the age of 25, no one is younger than 13.
The panel of judges is comprised of seven veterans of the Icelandic music industry. Like almost every year since
MĂșsĂktilraunir began, this yearâs judges are all of Icelandic origin, averaging around 45 years old. The ratio of women to men is three to four.

The panel does a great job of recognising the merits of each and every artist and tallying up the winners, impressively deliberating on nearly 20 hours of programming.
However, their massive authority as gatekeepers cannot be ignored. Their judgement holds tremendous sway, so itâs worth noting that the atmosphere among the judges exuded self-awareness and appeared to prioritise social inclusivity. A certain mindfulness of the judgesâ own privilege could be perceived in their actions and words. However, good intentions only go as far as the people behind them. Relying solely on the goodness of the handful of individuals in the judgesâ seats, without assessing the needs of the competitionâs operational structure, would be disservice to everyone involved.
Palli has hosted the event, bringing to the table a vast amount of music knowledge and information about the competition which he readily carries in a dossier at all times.
Ăli Palliâs position as host serves two fundamental roles. The first is introducing the contestants. The second is entertaining the audience and, more crucially, buying time between acts â MĂșsĂktilraunirâs stage hands are on a tight schedule due to the number of participants involved. It is within Ăli Palliâs latter role where room for improvisation opens up. Actually, it seems as if Ăli Palli likes to play his entire part by ear. Most of the information Ăli Palli is required to present on stage is kept in his aforementioned dossier. What he does onstage is read aloud from said dossier. However, he still manages to make factual errors, sometimes even relishing in his lack of awareness.
But what irks the progressive viewer more than the perceived unprofessionalism on display, is the covert misogyny beneath it all. Throughout the competition, itâs easy to spot the
non-binary participants and judges. Although subtle, these interactions are distasteful and do not belong at MĂșsĂktilraunir.
Ending on a high note MĂșsĂktilraunirâs magical week of music ended with pomp and circumstance, with various musicians announcing the eventâs best instrumentalists, runners-up and the winners.
When invited to make a closing statement, judge chairman Ărni MatthĂasson had one thing to say, âTrans women are women, trans men are menâ â a remark met with celebration from the audience. Seemingly out of context, it was potentially a way for the judges to openly support the contestâs trans and non-binary participants. Whatever the reason, it came off as a fitting comment to end a night that spotlighted the changing tides of the music industry, ushered in by the younger generation under the watchful eye of the institutional inertia and powers of the older one.
JĂłhannes Bjarkason Images: ynjar GunnarssonTHE HAUL
SĂłley & Borghildurâs Infinite Riches
What two kids would do with all the money in the world
Words: Sóley Hulda Nielsen Viðarsdóttir & Borghildur Lukka Kolbeinsdóttir

While The Haul typically gives readers a glimpse into our dream shopping bag in each issue, it turns out a pair of eight-year-olds are less consumerist than the adult members of the Grapevineâs editorial team. Hereâs what they would do if money were no object ⊠and a few things weâd spend our krĂłnur on.
SĂłley & Borghildur: Weâd give half of the money to children who live in poverty and donât have parents and are homeless. Then weâd buy a ship and a spaceship to go and pick all the space trash and sea trash in the world.

Borghildur: Iâd hire 555 servants!
SĂłley: Forget what I said before. I would take a net and save the fish from dying from eating plastic. Also, Iâd move into Borghildurâs apartment building and hire a man to teach me to draw really amazing drawings!
The Grapevine: Weâd buy some cool stuff for ourselves and our friends.
Monthly Moomin adventure
3.500 ISK + â available from Unicef.is/mumin

âLĂfið er nĂșnaâ (life is now) beaded bracelet

2.900 ISK â available from Kraftur.org
Donation to Kattholt
5.000 ISK â available from Verslun.Kattholt.is
âEr of seint að fĂĄ sĂ©r kaffi nĂșna?â (is it too late to have coffee now?) mug
4.900 ISK â available from Krabb.is



THIS IS ICELAND




Me This Is The Last Time Youâll Come Hereâ
Learning about life in and out of Hólmsheiði prison
Name: Ari HjĂĄlmarsson
Occupation: Prison guard at Hólmsheiði prison
Before the interview begins, Ari gives Krakkaveldiâs journokid a tour of the prison. Journokid initially thinks the prison looks a bit like a hotel. It isnât like that at all though, because the prisoners cook for themselves and do their laundry in the prison.
âThatâs a part of the rehabilitation here because we want them to do things on their own, cook and things like that, feel responsible for themselves,â Ari explains. âThey also want that. Theyâd rather choose what they eat.â
Ari shows us a facility where the prisoners can study at the Secondary School of South Iceland (FSU), as he says many of them want and need an education, some are even illiterate when they come to Hólmsheiði. Events, like mass and yoga classes, are scheduled at the prison library. Prisoners also get access to a doctor twice a week, therapists and social workers.
Ari previously worked at the Child and Adolescent Psychiatric Department and says he gets heartbroken when he sees some of the kids he worked with there show up at the prison.
âBefore we start the interview, you
have to promise me one thing,â Ari demanded. âThis is the last time youâll come in here.â
âNot unless Iâm doing another interview!â I replied.
âOK,â he conceded. âThatâs the only situation Iâd be alright with having you here again.â
Why did you decide to work as a prison guard?
I was always interested in this job and read about imprisonment when I was studying social work. Afterwards, when I finished my studies, I saw this advertised and decided to apply.
Whatâs it like working in a place like this?
Itâs fun and diverse, as no day is the same in a job like this.
Does the prison have good food?

Itâs sometimes good, sometimes bad. Today, it was good.
How does this job affect your life?
You become more patient, because you need to show a lot of patience here. When people enter the prison,
itâs usually the worst time in their life. Thatâs probably the most important aspect of this job â being patient and present for the inmates.
How does this job affect your mental health?
You need to learn to not take it home with you. That can sometimes be difficult. We have a program for the employees to meet a therapist.
What do you do around Christmas and Easter?
We celebrate holidays. At Christmas, we try to keep things festive. The inmates receive an extra subsidy to have their meal a bit nicer. It can be very difficult for inmates to not be able to see their family and friends â nobody wants to be in here.
Sometimes, itâs said that the jails in Iceland are fancy. You hear people saying, âItâs like being in a hotel.â But I donât know anyone who would want to stay in a hotel room for years and be forced to stay there.

THE VILLAGE PEOPLE
âPromise
WELL, YOU ASKED
Paw-Some Questions That Bring On The Giggles

If you were a dog in ReykjavĂk, where would you go?
If I were a dog in ReykjavĂk, I would â besides chasing the many cats scattered around town â definitely head straight to the famous HallgrĂmskirkja church. Why, you ask? Because rumour has it that the acoustics in the church are so amazing that even a dogâs bark sounds like a heavenly choir! Plus, who wouldnât want to take in the stunning views of ReykjavĂk from the top of the church tower? Just imagine the wind in your fur and the city skyline stretching out before you... Woof-tastic!
Puffins are known to jump off cliffs. Are they suicidal? What can we do to ensure puffinsâ well-being?
Suicidal puffins? Pfft, no way!
Theyâre just adrenaline junkies with a penchant for diving into the deep end. And as for ensuring their wellbeing, forget conservation efforts and protecting their habitats... what they really need is a full-service puffin spa! Massages, facials, the works. And donât even get me started on the fish buffet â itâs a non-negotiable. After all, we owe it to them for making us look good in all those tourist photos before we chow down on their deliciousness. Itâs the least we can do!
If we go whale watching, would the whales do people watching?
Whale, whale, whaleâŠThere is no if Whales should be allowed to peoplewatch whenever they want to. The question is how much would it cost? Would they be offered a refund if they didnât see an extraordinary enough human? How would they choose the best season to people-watch? One thing Iâd suggest to fellow whales: avoid Kringlan during Christmas holidays. Youâre whale-come!
Do seals realise they donât tan in the sun or are they really deliberately trying to be divas?
Seal-ly! Have you ever seen seals? They donât need to impress anyone with a tan! Seals know how to make a splash wherever they go. They can get a perfect beach selfie with the ease of a magician: those little fluff balls are the true seal-lebrities of the animal world.

You really shouldnât have askedWords: Gitte Van der Meersch & Iryna Zubenko
POTENT QUOTABLES
The President of Iceland talks favourite cartoons, food, and books on Page 8.

One of 25 wonders of the world
Blue Lagoon geothermal seawater is unlike any other water on the planet. Born deep underground, this natural marvel is rich in silica, algae, and mineralsâthe elements that give the water its extraordinary powers. Discover the water. Experience the wonder.

What if kids took over Althingi? Read their political manifesto on Page 16.

DiljĂĄ details her Eurovision preparation process on Page 24.

8-year olds SĂłley and Borghildur take on their first food review on Page 32
guard
âThat would be Mulan. A close second would be The Lion King.â
âWe would stop the immigration bill and ban AI art.â
âIâve stopped experiencing stress.â
âWe donât understand why McDonaldâs closed in Iceland.â
âPromise me this is the last time youâll come here.â
Prison
Ari HjĂĄlmarsson warns Grapevineâs junior journalist on Page 38.