St. Petersburg In Your Pocket June-July 2014 by Russia In Your Pocket

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St. Petersburg June - July 2014

Parks and Palaces Visit the former homes of the Tsars

Summer festivities inyourpocket.com NÂ°95

Concerts, festivals and exhibitions to enjoy in the fine weather

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

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June - July 2014

Contents Where to eat E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

DLT Department Store DLT Department Store (Dom Leningradskoi Torgovli) is one of the oldest department stores in St. Petersburg. While the building which you can see today dates back to 1908, the history of the site goes back to the days of Peter the Great, belonging to the mansion of Artemy Volynsky (1789-1840) – a remarkable figure from the 18th century who climbed through the ranks from soldier to become a diplomat and eventually governor of Kazan. In a sobering reminder of the danger of rising too high, he fell foul of court politics and was arrested and executed after being accused of treason. In 1836 the mansion was taken over by a hotel called the Volkovskie Rooms and its famous guests included the composer Mikhail Glinka (1804-1857) – the founder of the nationalist school of Russian composers and often regarded as the father of Russian classical music – and writer Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin (1826-1889) considered one of the most prominent 19th century Russian satirists. In 1900 the building was purchased by the Guards’ Economic Society who opened the current building in 1909 as the House of the Guards’ Economic Society, or simply referred to as the Guards’ Discount Shop. The Guard’s Economic Society was formed in the late 19th century as a reaction to the low wages paid to military officers and the high cost of living in Russia’s capital city. The officers came to the conclusion that by forming a cooperative they could acquire necessary items at a much better rate and after receiving a donation from Tsar Alexander III in 1892 the officers were able to establish their first department store. Despite the bargains which were available at the new department store, it had been designed so that it should be no less luxurious than the most fashionable department stores in Paris. The second stage of the construction was completed in 1913 and this building has been preserved throughout the tumultuous events of the 20th century. The new department store created a sensation in St. Petersburg at the time – offering products and service that

was hitherto unknown in Russia while the prices were no higher than the average price elsewhere in the city. One important difference with the new department store was that they had a strict policy of fixed prices, whereas other shops around the city thought little of altering the prices in accordance to the wealth and naivety of the customer. Following the 1917 Revolution the department store was taken over by the Soviet government and became the First State Department Store and the activities of the organisation were expanded to include the manufacture of toys as well baking bread and brewing non- alcoholic drinks. In 1935 it was renamed Dom Leningradskoi Torgovli (Leningrad Trade House) or DLT for short and has become famous throughout Russia under this name. It is rumoured that when the decision was made to rename the department store in 1935 was made, the original intention was to change its name to the Leningrad House of Trade which in Russian would give it the initials DLT. However, the more politically savvy realised that these initials coincided with those of Stalin’s personal enemy Lev Davidovich Trotsky – and so the “politically correct” name of DLT was chosen. During the Blockade of Leningrad (1941-1944) the building suffered severe damage from German artillery but was rapidly repaired in the post war years. From 1965 the department store changed its focus and sold a wide range of children’s toys – soon becoming the most popular family shop in the city. In 2005, Mercury received the rights to redevelop the department store and turn it into a premium class shopping centre. As part of the redevelopment work the size of the shopping area has been doubled from 9,000 to 18,000 square metres by turning warehouse space into shopping space and opening up an additional two storeys. DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru.

Where to watch the World Cup Russian summer menu Roof terraces

23 30 38 42 44

Foreword

Nightlife

In the News

What to see

Arrival & Getting Around

City Basics

Language

50 The Essentials 50 Hermitage 52 Old Soviet Tours 57

Where to stay 61

Culture & Events 12

Interview with concierge

Concerts, festivals and exhibitions Footbal news Summer festivals

Shopping

12 16 17

Features Smolny District Nevsky prospekt St.Petersburg’s historical outskirts

20 48 56

Expat & Lifestyle 66 The Expat Experience

Business

Maps & Index

Moscow

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June - July 2014

Foreword

In the News

Finally the glorious Russian summer is upon us and St. Petersburg has completed its transformation from cold snowbound northern city to a warm and sunny summer paradise. Warm weather and the arrival of the midnight sun means it is time for the summer festivals to begin, and this year St. Petersburg has a bumper selection of cultural delights for all tastes: rock, pop, jazz, classical, electronic and more! Check out our special feature on page 17. For sport fans this summer is of course important because of the FIFA World Cup. Even if you don’t have a ticket to Brazil but still want to watch the games, check out the list of sport bars and restaurants we’ve chosen for you on page 30. I’m sure that you already know that and are totally prepared for this, but I just can’t not mention our pride – White Nights. Yes, those White Nights make St. Petersburg famous all over the globe. I have lived my whole life here and every summer when I walk at night down one of the majestic embankments watching the bridges going up, I always feel just as happy and excited as I did the first time I saw it. It is breathtaking, spectacular, gorgeous and it is unique to St. Petersburg. So join the crowd of happy tourists and locals and watch this grand spectacle. By the way, the longer the night the better the excuse to spend more time in nice bars and restaurants. St. Petersburg is open 24/7 and a lot of places, especially in summer, are open till morning. So after watching the bridges you can go and enjoy one of the many open terraces in the city centre. Enjoy and have fun! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

Russia day St. Petersburg In Your E S Pocket S E N TI A L founded and published C I TbyY G U I D E S OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com Editor&PR Ksenia Elzes, editor.spb@inyourpocket.com Editor Peter Campbell Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.spb@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Peter Smirnov, peter.smirnov@inyourpocket.com Contributor Lana Metafonov Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 95, 01.06.2014, 90,000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story On our summer cover you see the classic Soviet Volga. You can have a city tour on this fascinating car! Read more on page 55. It is a new and fun way to explore the city. Photo by Ilya Timshin, www.ilyatimshin.com

June 12 is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in 1990 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts. Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian.

No smoking in russia

St. Petersburg was founded as a port city and 25 July is the day when the city celebrates its thousands of naval officers. Typically the celebrations take place along the Neva near the Winter Palace and Admiralty where a whole flotilla of warships decked in flags will be on display and the ships’ crews will be out partying and meeting with friends and family. The historic naval base of Kronshtadt in the north of the city will also have special parades and chances to look around the warships. As usual and in spite of the obvious lack of darkness at this time of year there will no doubt be a fireworks display! Expect plenty of rowdiness.

Those of you who have got used to Russia’s relaxed laws on smoking tobacco products are in for a shock. As of June 1 it is illegal to smoke in bars and restaurants. The new regulations will also make it harder to purchase cigarettes with many of the small shops and kiosks losing the right to sell tobacco products. People in breach of the new laws can be fined 500-1,500 Rbl and if they were smoking in a children’s playground the fine will be as high as 2,000-3,000 Rbl. The price of cigarettes is also set to increase with additional taxes knocking the price up another 8 Rbl.

Pivnaya Karta reopening

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FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

SOUTH AFRICA

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Pivnaya Karta at ul. Vosstaniya 55 has opened it doors following renovations. The boutique beer bar now offers one of the largest ranges of beer in Europe. Apart from their standard 14 beers on tap the bar also offers more than 400 different types of bottled beer and 30 ciders from around Europe. See our full review on page 27 and 37.

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world.

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The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Born in 1799 Pushkin’s spirit still holds Russia in his sway. Children still learn his poems at school, foreign students finally feel like they know Russian when they are able to read his stories and poetry. Pushkin was both a romantic and a revolutionary. He is most famous for his poem Eugene Onegin (Евгений Онегин) and The Captain’s Daughter. Steeped in the spirit of romanticism Pushkin fought 29 duels before being slain in the prime of his writing career when he was only 37. Honour Russia’s bard by visiting his museum or going to a literary reading – but learn from his death and steer clear of dueling!

Navy Day

About IYP ESTONIA

Pushkin’s birthday: 6 June

Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17.

Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No95. 01.06.2014 Для детей старше 16 лет.

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June - July 2014

Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave. The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi. Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.

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Arriving & Getting Around The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly. Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for the ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure! Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 1520 minutes). Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station. If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl.

Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need. Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport

Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination. Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night and during summer the bridges will be open - which depending on where your accommodation is might mean substantial delays.

Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver. St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting. Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather-

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covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. nyt.ru June - July 2014

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand Do you speak English? Help! I don't want

02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

pocket dictionary: Belye Nochi Eternal daylight comes to St. Petersburg at the end of May when the White Nights (belye nochi) begin. During the belye nochi many locals begin to suffer from bessonitsa (insomnia) and the desire to stay out and tusit (drink and party) gets stronger. At its peak (usually during the first weeks of June) St. Petersburg, which is positioned on the 59thb parallel, usually only sees about one or two hours of a kind half-darkness. So prepare to say da svidaniya (goodbye) to your vnutrennie chasy (body clock)!

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00. 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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tritsat sorok pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

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Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? Good Khorosho Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? Kogda? What time is it? Katory chas? Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Хорошо Сегодня Завтра Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Который час? Конечно С праздником! Пароль

The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sport, entertainment and much else that is of interest to both residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital. Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert commentary on the country’s changing political and economic landscape and provides valuable insight into the issues that frequently grab the world’s attention. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants and business centers citywide, as well as at important international events. June - July 2014

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.

theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre QC-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Ticket office: daily 11:00 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00. Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com.

concert halls and clubs Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su. Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Jazz Philharmonic Hall QС-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club QB-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Open 19:00 - 23:00. Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Small Philharmonic Hall QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru. Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.

You can buy tickets for many events at www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

JUNE AND July events 01.06 Sunday 20:00 Linkin Park For more than 15 years Linkin Park has been one of the top alternative rock groups in the world. The band has received numerous awards and sold over 50 million records. Having released five successful albums including Hybrid Theory, Meteora, Minutes to Midnight, the group is currently working on their sixth album which is due for release later this year. Despite constant tours the group still succeeds in producing fresh music. From these performance veterans you can expect a good show.QС-2, Petrovsky stadium, Malaya arena, ul. Petrovsky ostrov 2, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 921 303 33 33, www.linkinpark.com. Tickets 3,000 - 6,000Rbl. 03.06 Tuesday 20:00 Black Sabbath Following a global tour, Black Sabbath will be performing in St. Petersburg to support the release of their latest studio album 13. The iconic heavy metal band was originally formed in 1968 and has gone on to record 19 albums, selling 75 million copies. Ozzy Osbourne fans will be pleased to note that the aging rocker is back at the vocals. While the group is enjoying a new lease of life with new blood - three new band members. The latest album which was released in April 2013 topped charts in both the UK and the US and earned the band their first Grammy in 14 years. QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.blacksabbath.com. Tickets 1,800 - 8,000Rbl.

07.06 Saturday 20:00 Sasha Almazova and Non Cadenza One of St. Petersburg’s most talented creative groups, Non Cadenza brings together the poetry of the Russian language with the sombre tones of soul. Their music is closely connected with all that is familiar to St. Petersburg and generates an intimate sensation which has won the band a popular following within the city. Non Cadenza has performed at some of the large festivals including Koktebel Jazz festival, ZAVTRA and Jazz Time. Songs such as Serezhki (Earrings), Baryshnni severnoi stolitsy (Northern city girl) and O lubvi (About love) have become the band’s calling cards. The group was formed in 2004 and has produced two albums. QС-2, Birzha Bar, Birxhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. 8 (931) 340 22 99, www.noncadenza.ru. June - July 2014

Culture & Events Sounds of Vienna St. Petersburg summer concerts were the idea of composer and violinist Johann Strauss and have been a tradition since 1856. This summer at the Princess Yusupova Palace on Liteiny pr. 42 every Saturday you have a unique opportunity to enjoy the great music of Johann Strauss in its original form. The recreated Strauss Virtuosi orchestra with leading St. Petersburg opera singers will perform music by Strauss and Mozart. QTickets can be bought at Dumskaya ul. 5/22, Office 2, Mon-Fri 10:00 - 19:00 and SatSun 13:00 - 19:00. Tickets can also be bought at the Princess Yusupova Palace before the concerts at 18:00 - 20:15. Visa and Mastercard are accepted. Tickets 1,000 - 1,400Rbl. 17.06 Saturday 20:00 Tom Odell A young British singer-songwriter, Tom Odell decided to become a musician when he was 18 and largely owes his success to his own pertinacity, putting up with taunts and mockery while trying to establish himself as a musician. He was fortunate enough to be found by Lily Allen who claimed the singer’s energy reminded her of David Bowie. Signing with Allen’s label, Odell released his long play Songs from another Love in October 2012 while his debut album came out in June 2013 and reached number one on the UK charts.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.tomodell.com. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl. 09.06 Monday 20:00 The Pretty Reckless This alternative rock, post-punk band will be premiering their second album Going to Hell. The group is coming to Russia at the height of their popularity with Taylor Momsen as their lead singer. The band was initially established in 2007 and they released their first single in 2010. The band has grown up on the road, touring with and playing warm-up acts for Evanescence, Guns ‘n’ Roses and Marilyn Manson. The Going to Hell album was released in March 2014 and immediately jumped to the fifth place on the US Billboard 200.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.goingtohell.me. Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl.

Culture & Events 24.06 Tuesday 20:00 John Newman

07.07 Monday 20:00 Placebo

The latest hit on the British musical scene, John Newman came to world-wide fame with his 2013 single Love Me Again which was followed by his debut album Tribute. In 2014 he was nominated for the Brit Awards in three categories, best performer, best single and best video. At only 23 years, Newman promises a show full of energy and youthful charisma. With a well developed voice and a good rhythm, you should be in for a good concert if you are partial to a night of pop.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. johnnewman.co.uk. Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.

British rock trio Placebo has been around long enough for everyone to have heard something by them. Initially considered a rock glam group, the band has moved on and covered a wide range of genres including alternative rock, pop, post-punk revival and electronic rock. Formed in 1994 the band released their first album Placebo in 1996 and made it to the top-5 on the UK charts. The group has produced seven studio albums with each album making it to the top-20 in the UK. The group has sold 11 million albums. Their latest album came out in September 2013.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www. placeboworld.co.uk. Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

25.06 Wednesday - 26.06 Thursday 19:00 Turetsky Choir Advertised as a classic pop super-show, the Turetsky Choir promises a performance that will reveal a man’s view of love. The choir was first formed in 1989 singing Jewish liturgical and folk music. Subsequently the group has established a large repertoire of songs to include opera, spiritual, folk and pop music in 10 different languages. Their performances are known for their energy and unpredictability in which they turn every song into a mini musical. QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.arthor. ru. Tickets 1,200 - 6,000Rbl. 29.06 Sunday 18:00 Greenfest Greenfest is an annual rock festival held in several European countries every year. The festival has a history of getting good headline acts including the Red Hot Chili Peppers, Metallica, Linkin Park, Limp Bizkit, the Rasmus, Jamiroquai, Fatboy Slim, 30 Seconds To. This year promises to be another success with the Prodigy being promised as the headline group. They will be supported by Hollywood Undead from America and Die Antwoord from South Africa, promising a night of rap, rock and alternative music at high decibels and a great atmosphere.QC-2, Petrovsky stadium, Malaya arena, ul. Petrovsky ostrov 2, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.nca.ru. Tickets from 1,650Rbl.

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05.06 Thursday - 24.08 Sunday This exhibition is dedicated to the murder of the tsar’s family near Ekaterinburg in 1918 and details the events leading up to the tragedy and its consequences. It also looks at the process of discovering the remains and identifying them which occurred in the 1990s. The exhibition is based on materials from the state archives and includes personal items from the tsar’s family supplied by the State Hermitage Museum. The materials detail the life of the tsar’s family from March 1917 (just after the February Revolution) to July 1918, following their journey under house arrest. It also includes audio recordings of people who participated in the murder.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www. spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00.

08.07 Tuesday 20:00 Foster The People This rock group came to fame after posting their first song Pumped Up Kicks on their webpage for free-download in 2009. The song went viral, was even nominated for a Grammy and the band hasn’t looked back since. In the last five years the group has recorded two studio albums. Their first album Torches was used as the soundtrack for the Vampire Diaries, while their latest album Supermodel was released in March 2014. The band has a refreshing indie-pop flavour with a dash of alternative rock and indietronica.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.fosterthepeople. com. Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.

Exhibitions through 30.09 Tuesday Van Gogh Alive This interactive exhibition portrays the painting of Van Gogh in a way you have never seen it before. The painter’s works are projected onto a screen in complete darkness with an accompaniment of classical music. The exhibition also includes images from Van Gogh’s life revealing his environment and some of the things that inspired the great artist.QD-2, Konyshennaya pl. 1, MNevsky pr., www. vangoghalive.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 23:00. Admission 600Rbl.

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The Ruin of Nicholas II’s family

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29.06 Sunday - 31.10 Friday Manifesta 10 The State Hermitage Museum has been selected to host Manifesta 10. Manifesta is a nomadic European Biennial of contemporary art, which changes its location every two years. It purposely tries to stay away from the world’s dominant art capitals, instead seeking to spread art’s development in the fields of curation, experimentation, education, and production. St. Petersburg was selected “because of its critical intellectual and historical relationship with East and West Europe: a uniting principal that is also central to Manifesta, as the single roving European biennial of contemporary art”. In 2014 Manifesta will celebrate its 20th anniversary, as it was founded to “respond to the new social, cultural and political reality that emerged in the aftermath of the Cold War”. The opening of Manifesta will coincide with the Hermitage’s 250th anniversary. The biannual art event will showcase new works by over 50 contemporary artists from Russia and around the world, reflecting the past 25 years of changes brought about by the shifting world order.QD-2, The State Hermitage, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 84 46, www.manifesta.org. June - July 2014

Culture & Events FOOTBALL NEWS Zenit’s up-and-down 2013-2014 season came to an end on May 15 with Zenit coming up just one point short of winning the Russian Premier League title. Zenit thus claimed second place for the second year in a row. The spring also saw Zenit make it to the Champions League round of 16 for only the second time in club history. There, Zenit was eliminated 5:4 on aggregate by Borussia Dortmund. While fans are rightly disappointed that Zenit didn’t win the Russian Premier League this spring, new head coach Andre Villas-Boas had only two months in charge to turn around Zenit’s mid-season woes. Villas-Boas went undefeated in his first six games, but a draw away to Lokomotiv Moscow and a home defeat to Dynamo meant that Zenit’s win in the final match of the season vs. Kuban wasn’t enough. Interestingly for visitors to St. Petersburg this summer, Zenit’s 2nd place finish in Russia means that Zenit must go through two rounds of UEFA Champions League qualification to reach the group stage that starts this September. Zenit will enter Champions League qualification from the 3rd round. The draw for this round will be held on July 18 in Nyon, Switzerland. It’s not clear yet which teams Zenit can get as an opponent, but the first leg will be held on July 29-30. The return leg of the third qualification round will be held on August 5-6. Thus Zenit’s home ground of Petrovsky Stadium will be hosting UEFA Champions League action right in the thick of summer. Visiting Petrovsky on a beautiful summer evening is an excellent experience that shouldn’t be missed. The grass is green, the evening is never-ending, and the stands are packed! Get your tickets at the website tickets.fc-zenit.ru/en/. Zenit fans will be heartened by the fact that last year, when Zenit also had to qualify for the Champions League from the third qualifying round, Zenit disposed of its two opponents, Nordsjælland of Denmark and Paços de Ferreira of Portugal, by a combined score of 14:3. Until then, enjoy all the World Cup action in Brazil, where Zenit players from Russia, Portugal, Brazil, and Belgium will all be playing! You can along the success of Zenit players at the World Cup at www.en.fc-zenit.ru. By Chris Pascone, editor of www.en.fc-zenit.ru

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Culture & Events through 30.06 Monday Zurab Tsereteli. Paintings Zurab Tsereteli is well known to the public for his sculptures and paintings and this is not the first time the Russian Museum has displayed his work in St. Petersburg. His paintings are full of colour and energy - reflecting the artist’s own character. His works are a monument to his homeland of Georgia and bring to life its people, culture, traditions, as well as the warmth and humour of the artist himself. The exhibition includes more than 40 works which have been painted by the artist over the past five years.QD-2, Russian Museum, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. 04.06 Wednesday - 11.08 Monday First World War. 1914-1918 The exhibition is devoted to the memory of participants and victims of the First World War. Many Russians saw parallels between the Great War and the Napoleonic Wars including Russian artists. Those artists that didn’t serve on the frontline, were involved in propaganda using art to and inspire morale. The exhibition will bring together about 250 works by leading artists of the period representing their personal contribution to “the war to end all wars”.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

summer festivals Endless Summer Fun When it comes to having fun in the sun, Petersburgers know how to do it best, making the most if the endless days thanks to the White Night effect. With an array of events and festivals on offer, catering for all tastes and styles, we have compiled a cross-section below of the best upcoming events. All that’s left for you to do now is to try and keep up with the city that doesn’t sleep all summer long!

June 6 – June 15 The 7th International Imperial Gardens of Russia Festival and Contest Celebrating the cross-cultural year between Russia and the U.K., the theme of the festival this year is “The Art of the English Garden.” Held at the Mikhailovsky Garden, landscapers will complete in creating gardens in the style and tradition of the British, providing the perfect setting for a summer stroll. www.igardens.ru

JUNE May 28 – July 7 The 22nd Stars of the White Nights Festival The popular Stars of the White Nights Festival, at the famed Mariinsky Theater, is a cultural highlight that runs throughout the summer. Now in its 22nd year, the playbill includes a number of operas, ballets and symphonies, giving locals and tourists their Russian culture fix. www.mariinsky.ru

June 7 Sensation The popular Sensation dance party returns to St. Petersburg bringing its new show, “Into the Wild.” With its trademark “all-white” dress code, ravers are encouraged to let out their “animal instinct” while dancing away to beats played by international DJs across five main stages including Mr. White, Matisse & Sadko, Nicky Romero, Martin Garrix, Dyro and Sick Individuals. www. radiorecord.ru

June 1 – July 1 The 22nd Palaces of St. Petersburg International Music Festival With concerts held in some of the most beautiful music halls in the city, the 22nd Palaces of St. Petersburg International Music Festival showcases both Russian and international performers. Choose from a series of performances inside the State Hermitage, Russian Museum, Shostakovich Philharmonic, Smolny Cathedral Concert Hall as well as a number of palaces. www.palacefest.ru

06.06 Friday - 31.08 Sunday Vladislav Mamyshev-Monro: The Life of the Great Monro This exhibition is an overview of the creativity of one of Russia’s great contemporary artists. The exhibition delves into the revolutionary character of MamyshevMonro, whose works became symbolic of Russia’s period of social breakdown and economic collapse. The artist was born in 1969 and was expelled from school at an early age for drawing caricatures of Politburo members. While serving at Baikonur with the army he ran a children’s art club. However it is for his scandalous performances and his paintings that he achieved fame and for which he is remembered. His works are held in the Russian Museum and the Moscow Museum of Contemporary Art as well in numerous private collections. MamyshevMonro died in Bali just over a year ago.QC-2, Novy Musey (New Museum), 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.

June 5 – July 7 The 9th International Musical Collection Festival Over 16 evenings, lovers of classical music can indulge in the likes of Shostakovich, Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky at the 9th International Musical Collection Festival held at the St. Petersburg Philharmonia. Featuring both Russian and international musicians and conductors, the festival will also celebrate two landmark anniversaries: The 100th anniversary of the birth of Elizabeth Kudryavtseva, the first female conductor of a professional choir in Russia as well as the 200th anniversary of the birth of Belgian musical instrument designer and musician Adolphe Sax, best known for inventing the saxophone. www.philharmonia.spb.ru

June 28 – July 11 The 16th International “Open Look” Summer Dance Festival Those wanting to improve, express or simply show off their dance moves can join in with the various events held during the 16th International Summer “Open Look” Dance Festival. Bringing together dance companies from around the world, such as China, Chile, Spain and the U.S., the two-week long festival includes performances, master classes, a teachers gala featuring solo works as well as the annual closing Festive Boat Party event. www.open-look.ru

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Culture & Events JULY July 2014 The 3rd “All Together Opera” St. Petersburg International Festival The popular open air festival returns for a third year featuring performances of some of the best Russian and European opera classics for the month of July. Performances will be held at the Peter and Paul Fortress, Yelagin Island and St. Isaac’s Square and are free for the public to stop by as they please to get their opera fix. So grab a blanket and some food and arrive early as these events are known to attract large crowds. July 5 – July 6 Night of Music in Gatchina What has become a traditional highlight in the summer calendar, Night of Music in Gatchina is now in its fifth year and attracts more than 15,000 people from around St. Petersburg and beyond. With the majestic Gatchina Palace as a backdrop, the outdoor concert runs for four hours, from 11 p.m. to 3 a.m. Not only does the program include works by some of the world’s best composers such as Tchaikovsky, Rimsky -Korsakov , Rachmaninoff and Handel, this year also includes a small special Led Zeppelin tribute. www.gatchinapalace.ru

9 July – 15 July The 14th International Music of the Great Hermitage Festival With the State Hermitage Museum celebrating its 250th anniversary this year, the 14th International Music of the Great Hermitage Festival returns dedicated to the landmark celebration. Inviting musicians and composers from around the world, the festival playbill features talent such as Norwegian jazz trumpeter, composer, and producer Niels Petter Molvaer (in the photo); soloists, choir and orchestra from the Royal Opera of Turin (Italy) and the VUOrchestra from the University of Amsterdam, one of the most successful student orchestras in the Netherlands with over 90 students. www.hermitagemusic.ru

Culture & Events July 10 – August 8 The 13th International Sand Sculpture Festival While it may not be known for its beaches, St. Petersburg still manages to attract some of the best sand sculptors in the world to its shores. Hailing from countries such as Belgium, Denmark, Germany and U.S., the sand creations by the artists are sure to amaze and delight both kids and adults alike. www.spbmuseum.ru July 12 – July 13 Stereoleto Meaning “StereoSummer” in Russian, Stereoleto has fast gained a reputation as one of the best international summer music festivals in St. Petersburg, winning multiple awards for its event. Held again on Yelagin Island, the playbill includes international artists such as Buena Vista Social Club, Mgzavrebi&Grishkovets and Jenny Wilson. www. bestfest.ru July 19 Usadba Jazz International Open-Air Festival After a two-year break, the Usadba Jazz festival returns to St. Petersburg. With Yelagin Island as the chosen location, the open-air festival will fill the blue skies with a mixture of jazz, funk, world music, acid jazz, lounge, jazz rock and blues. www.usadba-jazz.ru July 19 Festival of Colors St. Petersburg bursts into color today, literally, as hundreds of people gather in white clothing to throw, print and wipe tons of paint on each other, all in the name of good ol’ fashioned fun. Now in its third year, the event aims to promote, increase and share happiness and joy among its participants without the use of drugs or alcohol. vk.com/ festivalofcolors

July 18 – July 19 Petrofestival (World Music and Ethno festival) Held at the Peter and Paul Fortress, the whole family is invited to join in the fun at one of the largest open-air music festivals in the city. Held across several stages over two days, the festival aims to showcase exciting new sounds from Russia and abroad in all genres including classical to jazz, rock ‘n ‘ roll to reggae and even Latin music. www. petrofestival.ru 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Feature Let’s go sightseeing! Start out at Nevsky prospect metro station and head north towards the traditional Orthodox cathedral along Griboedov Canal. The canal was originally constructed during the reign of Catherine the Great in 1764-1790. In 1923 the canal was renamed Griboedov Canal in honour of the Russian playwright and diplomat Alexander Griboedov (1795 – 1829). Griboedov is largely famous for his play Woe from Wit (Gore ot uma). He was a talented linguist and diplomat and was killed along with his entire legation by an angry mob in Persia while trying to protect three Armenians. Continue north from the Church of the Saviour and pass by Mikhailovsky Garden. Over the Moika river you will come to Marsovo Pole (Field of Mars). This field was originally a recreational area. At the end of the 18th century the meadow was taken over as an army drilling ground. In the early 19th century it became known as the Field of Mars. Following the 1917 Revolution, several revolutionaries were interred here and it became a memorial. Located in the centre of the field is the eternal flame. It was the first in Russia, being introduced in 1967. To the northern side of the field, next to the Neva River is Suvorov Square and a statue to Field Marshal Alexander Suvorov (1727-1800). The general is often thought of as Russia’s greatest military leader. Of the 93 battles he commanded, he never lost. If you follow the road east either along the Neva River or along the Moika River embankment you come to the Summer Garden. The park was originally designed by Peter the Great. A significant attraction of the garden was the fountains which were the first in Russia.

Smolny District Smolny is the district of the royalty and nobility. As such the tour will take you past some of the most elegant buildings and nicest parks in St. Petersburg. The district is also intimately connected with some of the most shocking and tragic events in Russia’s history.

Leaving the Summer Garden to return to the banks of the Neva River and continue north-east crossing from Dvortsovaya Nab. (Palace Embankment) over Prachechny Most (Laundry bridge) onto Nab. Kutuzova named after the Russian field marshal who commanded Imperial forces during Napoleon’s invasion of Russia. It was Mikhail Kutuzov who oversaw the Battle of Borodino in 1812 and the retreat from Moscow which lead to the overall defeat of the Grande Armée. This location also offers nice views of the Neva River with the background of the Saints Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress is St. Petersburg’s first building and was founded in 1703. Continuing along the embankment turn right at the first opportunity onto Gagarinskaya ulitsa, named after Yury Gagarin (1934-1968) the first man in space. Gagarin was a pilot before being selected for the Soviet space programme. His first and only space flight was upon the Vostok 1 on 12 April 1961. He died in a plane crash in 1968. If you feel inclined to honour the career of the world’s first cosmonaut, drop in for a fine Belgium beer at Craft Pub – with

over 40 varieties you can spend an afternoon enjoying the search for the right beer to celebrate Yury Gagarin! After honouring Gagarin, continue to the south, and turn right at the first intersection onto ulitsa Tchaikovskogo. The spelling might look unusual but this street is named in after the great composer, Petr Illich Tchaikovsky (1840-1893). Tchaikovsky is perhaps best known for his 1812 Overture and Swan Lake. It is thought that Tchaikovsky committed suicide by drinking a glass of tap water and deliberating contracting cholera to avoid personal scandal. Continue west until you reach Solyanoy pereulok (Salt Lane), named after the salt stores for tanneries that used to be located in the area. Turn left, go through two intersections you and will see the Museum to the Defence of Leningrad (building 9). This museum is absorbing. It depicts the survival and defence of the city during the blockade. After the museum continue south and turn left at ulitsa Pestelya. This area is receiving a new lease of life and is the home for a range of new restaurants and bars with a lively nightlife. After three short blocks, crossing over Liteiny Prospekt you will enter Transfigurational Square with the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. This is one of the few Russian churches that has never been closed. The cathedral was built under Empress Elizaveta Petrovna (1709-1762) in 1743-1754. It was reconstructed in 1825-1829 in the Empire style. The fence around the cathedral was made using the barrels of Turkish guns seized during the 1828-1829 Russo-Turkish War.

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Yury Gagarin’s first and only space flight was upon the Vostok 1 on 12 April 1961.

Feature If you leave Transfigurational square by Manezhny pereulok (Manege Lane) you will find yourself walking down one of the few untouched, unblemished old streets of St. Petersburg. Both sides of the lane are enclosed by lovely 19th century apartment buildings. Continuing to the end of the street you reach ulitsa Vosstaniya (Uprising Street) named in honour of the 1917 February Revolution. This street is now starting to come alive with a range of quality restaurants and bars. Drop in on Pivnaya Karta (Beer Card) at ul. Vosstaniya 55 – the flashy New York interior is enough to make you want to celebrate Russia’s culinary revolution. Head south and duck along ulitsa Ryleeva and then head south down ulitsa Radichsheva, you will find yourself in the midst of St. Petersburg’s military past. This area is intimately connected with Imperial Russia’s former military glory, being used as military barracks. Ulitsa Ryleeva is now named in honour of a Decembrist who was involved in the failed December 1825 coup against Nicholas I. Since 1935 ulitsa Radishcheva has been named after the 18th century writer and philosopher Alexander Radishchev whose work Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow criticised serfdom. His worked earned him exile to Siberia under Catherine the Great who called him a “rebel worse than Pugachev”. On reaching Vilensky pereulok turn left. This lane housed a large number of soldiers with parade grounds. The lane was named in 1922 in honour of Lithuania’s capital. Turn left on reaching Paradnaya ulitsa (Parade street). This street lead directly to the Preobrazhensky Regimental barracks and was used for military drills and parades. The

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Where to eat regiment was relocated here from Moscow in 1723. The unit was formed from the tsar’s play army with which he used to play war games as a boy and was named after the village where they played. Continue heading north until you reach a large and attractive park, the Tauride Garden. It was laid out in 783-1789 on the estate of Grigory Potemkin (1739-1791) behind the Tauride Palace. Potemkin was a long standing minister of war and lover of Catherine the Great. He was granted the title Prince of Tauride for the conquest of Crimea in 1783. Monuments to Petr Tchaikovsky and writer Sergey Yesenin (1895-1925) are located here.

Grigory Potemkin was a long standing minister of war and lover of Catherine the Great.

St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Cococo Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request an English version of the menu.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW

On the north-eastern side of the gardens is the Tauride Palace – the grandest palace owned by a nobleman in the 18th century that was built in 1783-1789. Opposite the Tauride Palace is the St. Petersburg Museum of Water. Located in the original water works, the museum includes St. Petersburg’s first water tower built in 1860. The museum is fully interactive, promising something of interest for everyone. Heading south from the Tauride Palace go down Tavricheskaya ulitsa and turn left onto Tverskaya ulitsa. This street is home to many mansions built at the beginning of the 20th century. The novelty of this street is the Old Believers Church. In the 17th century deviations were discovered in the Russian Orthodox Church as a result of bad translations and copying. Patriarch Nikon attempted to correct these deviations, leading to a schism within the Orthodox Church. Those who refused to accept the new creed were sent into exile. Following a manifesto of religious tolerance (1905) this church was built in 1906-1907. The church is unique in its use of the Novgorod architecture mixed with art nouveau elements. A few houses down from the church is the Shalyapin restaurant at building 12 – named after the famous Russian opera singer Fedor Shalyapin (1873-1938) who established the naturalistic school of opera. Continuing east you will reach a main road and a large park. You are now at the centre of St. Petersburg’s city government and on Dictatorship of the Proletariat Prospekt. Head north and sense the power of the proletariat! On your right you will come to one of St. Petersburg’s most impressive cathedrals, Smolny Cathedral. The cathedral was originally built as part of a convent complex for the illegitimate Elizaveta Petrovna, however, instead of becoming a nun, she became empress. The church was built in 17481764. The building today is used for concerts and weddings. To the left of Smolny Cathedral is the Smolny institute. This building was constructed in 1806-08 for educating aristocratic maidens. In 1917 the building was chosen as the Bolshevik headquarters during the October/November Revolution. In 1934, Sergey Kirov (1886-1934) was assassinated here. His death acted as the pretext for Stalin’s Great Purge. The Smolny Institute now houses a museum to Lenin.

Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW

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SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72 June - July 2014

Where to eat

Koleso Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region’s more unusual dishes.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment. We guarantee it will be fun!QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW

Mari Vanna Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house - and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old and cosy Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QC-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAVGSW

Olivie Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it’s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW

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Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW Shalyapin Located in the middle of the historic Smolny district, a pleasant stroll from the Tauride Garden, Shalyapin is your classic 19th century restaurant. Decorated in crèmes and brown with soft lighting and lampshades depicting 19th century street scenes this restaurant is a pleasant retreat from the bustle of modern life. The restaurant serves genuine Russian food, which is both tasty and filling. The staff are attentive and provide excellent advice on the best combinations of food and drink. The final result was well worth the wait. This is a lovely place to visit if you want to spend an afternoon or evening in quiet conversation.QF-2, Tverskaya ul. 12/15, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 32 10, www. shalyapinspb.ru. €€€. PTAESW Tsar Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance.QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www. tsar-project.ru. Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. Kitchen open till 23:30. €€€. PTALESW

Asian and Indian Delicious italian and russian food! Amazing Pastry!

St. Petersburg, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru

reservations: +7 (812) 572 54 48 24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Chopsticks Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior has been decorated in the traditional Chinese style with the walls decorated with traditional paintings. Quiet background music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. The central location makes this one of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in the city. QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/ chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTSW Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serving food from all compass points off India. The menu is extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we ordered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant Curry House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes. QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www. curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Cardamon This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamon is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW

Tandoori Nights There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouthwatering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW

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Where to eat

Where to eat Beer Restaurants Bierstube With their own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Birreria Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passage shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view onto Our Lady of Vladimir Cathedral. This is a good place to stop of with friends to watch sport on a Friday evening, drink a few beers (with brands from all over Europe, this should keep you busy all evening) and unwind after a week of hard labour. The menu offers your classic Italian favourites and is worth every rouble. Service is good an unobtrusive and the beer is enough to put anyone into a good mood, so you are bound to have a good time regardless of your company!QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www. birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW Bruxelles If you like delicious, good European food and drink, Bruxelles should be on the top of your list. The restaurant does not provide you with the fine dinning experience but the food is delicious, reasonably priced and has fast, efficient service. The music is loud, and although some might find this off-putting, there is plenty of space for patrons and it is still comfortable to talk in small groups. The bar has a solid wine list and offers a wide variety of beers including trappist and craft beers - just the thing to wash down a fantastic meal!QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 944 03 36, www.italygroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW

26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Dickens This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. PASW Gastronomic Pub Brugge This new Gastronomic pub is the place for people who like an authentic atmosphere and, naturally, original cuisine! The founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind of beer in a different glass! You can choose from almost 50 types of traditional Belgian beer. They also broadcast football matches, which is the perfect accompaniment to friendly meetings and the best beer. Belgian meals, which combine the simplicity of traditional burger cooking with the delicacy of French cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in Brussels or Antwerp. Try their duck with stewed quinoa, mushrooms and blueberry - it’s a real masterpiece!QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW Kriek Brasserie With five boutique beers on tap including the namesake of the brasserie itself, Timmermans Kriek, this is a place more to wet your whistle than fill your stomach. If you are looking for a glass of cold sweet cherry beer and Belgian chocolate, then this place will be the answer to your prayers. Also at Italyanskaya ul. 17 (metro Nevsky pr.).QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:30. €. PAES

Craft Bier Cafe Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in having four different kinds of lager available that he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden and well worth a visit. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW

Manneken Pis Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW

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Pivnaya Karta This is a unique place in St. Petersburg, with over 400 different kinds of craft and imported beers. You’ll find yourself standing behind the bar, in a New York style interior, helped by professionals to find that specific kind of beer you like, or will learn to love. This place is all about beer, it is non-smoking, and only minimal finger food is available. This place is about what really matters - beer. All beers can also be bought for take away.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 93 78, www. beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAS The Corner Pub An English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded from the people who brought you Dickens. The bar carries on the same traditions as Dickens and you might even know Jimmy the barman. The menu remains unchanged but the line of beer has been improved dramatically - more than 30 sorts of beer, including the ever popular craft beers. A huge English breakfast is available until 17:00 and smokers are allowed... Well, at least while it is legal! It is particularly pleasant to sit back and relax with a cigar and English ale in a comfortable armchair by the fire. Every Wednesday they have live rockabilly music.QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAESW Trappist Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW

Shchyot budte dobry – Check please! June - July 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat Caucasian and Central Asian Baklazhan The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW Khochu Kharcho “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

European Fartuk Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €. PTAGSW

Kroo Cafe It’s always nice to see new places appear in interesting central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Park Kroo Cafe serves breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps on going into the night. The well balanced menu is created by their French chef who is keen on buying his own products at the market, which only ads to the feeling that what you get is fresh. Topped off by friendly and smiling waitresses Kroo Cafe won’t disappoint.QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273 11 11, www. kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 01:00. PTASW

Freeman’s They say good things come in small packages, and this certainly is the case at this fine-dining restaurant near Kazan Cathedral. Freeman’s serves interesting flavour combinations (try the scallops with chocolate and hazelnut) with a touch of finesse. The portion sizes are small, though, so go with the intention of getting at least two courses. The restaurant is located opposite a pole dancing club and consequently the table in the window is always reserved; however the restaurant itself feels very classy. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 05 40, www. freemans.su. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Let it bar A little off the beaten track Let it Bar is subterranean bar with a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant and friendly, although the service is a little tardy. The interior consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, with plastered white walls. A walk-in fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array of food and acts as the one element colour in the bar. Let it Bar offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with friends, but it has little to make it stand out of the crowd. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 32 46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €. PSW

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Mamalyga Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks. The menu features a mix of well-spiced shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVSW Pryanosti i radosti Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and it quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but somehow it works. The menu includes European delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat WATCHING THE WORLD CUP Football fans might regret being in Russia and not Brazil this June, but if you want to watch the latest on field action, here are some great sports bars where to meet up with your mates and watch your favourite teams playing the best in the world. Bierstube QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Craft Bier Cafe QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW Dickens QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW Kriek Brasserie QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 48, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 235 46 21, www.kriek.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:30. €. PAES The Corner Pub QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. €€. PAESW Liverpool QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW Mollie’s Irish Pub QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PASW Mollie’s Mews QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 06:00. PAESW

30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat Moskva The decor is done out in various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and comfy yet expensive looking stuff. Potted plants brighten the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting all corners of the globe with sushi, pizza, Russian classics and continental mains the food is still well-made. The Moskva roof is also a great place for evening drinks, and sipping cocktails on the huge sun-drenched terrace overlooking the hustle and bustle of Vosstaniya square, we have to admit is pretty darn enjoyable.QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW Na Rechke With lovely views and outdoor dining on the Krestovka River bank Na Rechke creates a relaxed atmosphere. Soft background music, and friendly staff make for a lovely dining experience. The interior design with sloping, billowing ceilings, similar to awnings, gives the entire establishment the feel of al fresco dining and the white décor enhances the sensation of expansiveness. Tables are large and placed a good distance from each other. The menu is largely European with a tendency towards the Mediterranean and Italian. Being close to the central city, Na Rechke is simultaneously convenient and remote. This makes it an ideal location for a business meeting or a romantic dinner at the end of the day.QB-1, Ul. Olgina 8, MChernaya rechka, tel. (+7) 812 230 03 47, www.narechke.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW

Fine dining Astoria Café Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.com. Open 07:00 24:00. €€€. PTALW

Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef

Grand Cru Grand Cru brings molecular cuisine and top vintage wines to the banks of the Fontanka canal. The sleek look of the restaurant is as sophisticated and minimalist as you can imagine and the display of wines on sale (and the equally attractive staff selling them) take centre stage. The menu is an exciting adventure for the taste buds with all kinds of exotic flavours and unusual spices being combined together with top notch fish and meat, to give the diner something memorable and out of the ordinary. Don’t worry about trying to figure out which wines would go best with your molecular meal, there are highly trained sommeliers on hand to help you match the perfect wine.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 52, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 25 11, www.grandcru.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW

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Soup Wine Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €. PAGSW Via dell’ Oliva Situated in the very heart of St. Petersburg, Via dell’ Oliva is a Mediterranean restaurant but it’s mostly just Italian cuisine here. This isn’t bad at all, just don’t except different specialties from around the Mediterranean. The restaurant’s dining areas are ornately decorated as multiple different Mediterranean settings and the restaurant also has room for even the largest of groups. There is also a decent selection of wine, a relaxing atmosphere, especially with live music on the weekend evenings, as well as a friendly staff. If you are in the mood for great Italian food, you can’t go wrong especially with any of their specials from the grill!QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 31, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www. viadelloliva.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Where to eat Le Boat Le Boat is a spacious and airy restaurant with lovely lighting and attentive staff. Located a short walk from Alexander Nevsky Monastery, past a series of some of the ugliest examples of Soviet Realism, Le Boat is convenient for the sightseer and the long term expatriate who wants to enjoy a fine dining experience away from the bustle of the central city. While the restaurant does not offer lovely views, a glass wall gives you a good view of the kitchen which can be an enthralling process. The restaurant’s main attractions are the lovely environment, good service, and a fine dining experience at affordable rates.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 22, MPl. Alexandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 640 26 40, www.leboat-restaurant.ru. €€€. PTAEW L’Europe Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ is an expensive one of a kind treat and the wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise for the taste buds. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples. Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEW miX in St. Petersburg The first restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia’s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examining the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one of their highly creative cocktails.QD-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. Open 07:00 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW

32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

chef who produces authentic, unadulterated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains. They also have delicious cocktails. For those looking for a full Thai experience, the restaurant also has a massage salon in the nearby courtyard.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 961 92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€. PAS Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. Booking is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW Victoria A conceptual menu offers the unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top of the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also on offer.QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW

Mops The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is truly exquisite. Mops cultivates the appearance of elegant chaos. It has a terrace and three rooms to meet varying tastes, offering you a cosy spot to smoke a hookah or to sing your heart away in the karaoke hall. The unusual interior design emphasises contrasts and claims to be aimed at those with an ‘artistic personality’. The restaurant’s Thai

Wine Cellar 1853 Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located inside the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the world of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue. This cellar accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50 bottles of champagne. On the menu you can choose among others between four different fondues. Next to the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and a chocolate fondue (as an entrée, main and dessert perhaps), you can also go for the champagne and perigord truffle and cheese fondue. If you are considering a romantic candle lit dinner for two, hidden away from the world outside, then this is a good bet.QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com. Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW

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20 years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru June - July 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat until 06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 240 24 96, www.arka. spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAESW Biblioteka This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here. The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. It is used for literary events, meetings with writers and book presentations. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW

International 22.13 The owners have taken inspiration from the different corners of the world that they have visited, creating this gorgeous two storey restaurant overlooking the former imperial stables. The furnishings are eclectic, and the space has been arranged in such a way that there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to settle in for chats over innovative cocktails, or to while away the hours with your laptop or any of the books and magazines which they’ve thoughtfully provided. Their hearty breakfast menu (real American pancakes and maple syrup!) make for a great start to the day. Every three months a 22.13 team travels to another new town and brings a lot of vivid impressions and special offers for guests. QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 647 80 50, www.22-13.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. €. PTALESW Arka The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for after-work, or pregoing out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open 34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Buddha-Bar There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world, all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW

Koryushka Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul Fortress, a main tourist hotspot. The location affords great views of landmarks across the river, including the Winter Palace, and the restaurant makes the most of this, with lots of windows, and terraces, giving a spacious feel. The staff are helpful, and although the menu features fish dishes, there is also shashlik and salads on offer, as well as a good range of drinks. It is a nice restaurant to sit and enjoy the view after visiting this historic area of the city.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90 10, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW Long Island Diner & Bar Long Island is located in a timewarp just off Nevsky prospect. This place feels like a Hollywood remake of a 1950s milk bar with all the Americana you could wish for: from models of crime-fighting superheroes to Californian licence plates, and pictures from 1950s classic films to Elvis Presley. The bar plays a constant soundtrack of solid 1950s rock. The menu is all American too, burgers, beef and French fries with a mind boggling array of milkshakes to help you shake, rattle and roll. If you want something a bit stronger, they have a wide range of alcoholic cocktails and beverages.QD-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 8/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 924 36 97, www.longislanddiner.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTASW

Mansarda Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which it’s served and shouldn’t disappoint. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are particularly recommended. In warm weather the rooftop terrace is an excellent venue for sunset cocktails or Sunday brunch.QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALSW Meat Head Meat Head is set in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting with well spaced-out tables enabling intimate conversations. With meat being the main player we ordered the strip loin steak and it was perfect. The menu is quite diverse and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails with liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak house.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.meathead.ru. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW

Geografia As you might guess from the name, the menu includes cuisine from around the world. Here you can enjoy the best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single dish can be really tricky. But the eating is only half the pleasure at Georgafia, the restaurant takes a great pride in the cocktails, offering more than 40 original cocktails that are set to make you cast away any preconceived ideas about matching food and drink. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €€. PAESW Kartofel s gribami This small café has a pleasant atmosphere with nice staff. It is good for small groups wanting to catch up and seems to be popular among creative types with a flair for drawing or design. The interior is minimalistic with a mix of the retro with the modern. The café consists of four tables of varying sizes, so if you want to guarantee a seat its best to book in advance. The menu offers good, solid food with plenty of wines and cocktails to wash it down.QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 12, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 994 09 83. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €. PASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Where to eat

Moskva City Rooftop restaurants are the place to be in this city during the summer. Moskva City offers an unusual and fantastic view of St. Petersburg, with the broad Neva River glimmering in the sun. The good thing is, the food is not forgotten and is all tasty, served by friendly waiters and attractively presented. Prices are reasonable too. The terrace offers excellent space for lounging and partying. When the weather does not allow you to sit outside, they have lots of space in their well designed restaurant the next storey down.QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity.spb.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW

Pepper Moon From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your table. The menu offers European dishes, as well as Italian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. Note the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. You can choose what you want, and how it is cooked.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.gratogroup.ru/peppermoon. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Paradise cafe&bar The menu is pure pan-Asian: rolls, miso soups, wok dishes and deep fried appetisers and everything we tried was prepared in a timely manner, with a good selection of accompanying sauces. There is a wide range of cocktails and the Mai Tai we enjoyed was good. It is not a restaurant as much as an oversized chill out lounge, where the food is merely a background item, something one needs to sustain themselves while sitting for hours and people watching in the cavernous surroundings, smoking a hookah, drinking sumptuous cocktails, and enjoying the café’s karaoke nights and occasional concerts.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.paradise-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PAESW

Ribai A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene: given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt for something other than steak there’s another pleasant surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an American eatery the portions are mammoth and their delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai does. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812) 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAVESW

Schastye (Happiness) That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats.QE3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www.schaste-est.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Sky Bar Sky Bar claims to offer the highest panoramic views in St. Petersburg. It is located 69 metres above sea level on the 18th storey of the AZIMUT Hotel and provides guests with breathtaking views of the historic city - being significantly higher than most other buildings in the area. The minimalistic style of the bar is accentuated by the sharp contrast of the interior design with dark walls contrasting against marble of the bar. The lighting is provided with muted lights and tall panoramic windows. The bar’s menu includes items from Scandinavian, Asian and Russian cuisine. QC-4, AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 46, www. azimuthotels.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAGW Stroganoff Steakhouse If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event. QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAULESW

Ya vegetarianets – I am a vegetarian Bez myasa – without meat 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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The only places where Belgian beer and real Flemish dishes are served perfectly Cafe Trappist 36 Radischeva Street +7 (812) 275-99-35 Cafe Manneken Pis 198 Moskovsky Prospect +7 (812) 371-90-31

Unique bar and boutique with 400 kinds of beer Pivnaya Karta 55 Vosstaniya Street +7 (812) 273-93-78 www.beercard.ru

Cult Californian beer Boutique bar Pivnaya Karta is now offering over 400 different types of beer. The pub is run by two beer connoisseurs whose passion for beer has taken them around Europe and even across the Atlantic in search of the tastiest brews. The pride of their pick so far comes from Anderson Valley in sunny California, which is America’s first trappist beer and brings which is so appropriate to St. Petersburg’s summer lifestyle. If you want to indulge in European varieties then Pivnaya Karta has a great range of trappist beers, reflecting a beer tradition that goes back to 1095 and the time of the First Crusade. While the beer here may smell of ancient antiquity, you can enjoy tradition with modern comfort, the interior is modernistic and you could be forgiven for thinking that you have stepped into a bar in central Manhattan. The bar itself is equipped with the latest technical equipment to ensure that the beer tastes its best. While to guide you on that daunting challenge of finding the right beer with the right taste and the right mood the bar has a team of specialist who will act as your guides and tutors in this exacting art. In addition to their 400 different varieties the bar also offers weekly novelties with ‘visiting ales’. Those who prefer their beer to be ‘poured’ and not bottled have a choice of 14 beers to choose from. Cider lovers have similarly been catered for with 30 ciders to choose from. June - July 2014

Where to eat Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat Sunduk Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg scene. A dinner at Sunduk can turn into an entire evening of good company, and good music.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW Teplo In essence, this is a place that lives up to its name. Meaning warmth in Russian, Teplo is a winner. Things are done here subtly and well. The understated homely decor, the thoroughly intelligent menu, the delightful service all make coming here similar to dropping by your best friend’s house and having a bite to eat in their lounge room or on their patio or in their kitchen full of freshly baked pies and breads. Indeed wherever you end up eating, you’ll linger, eat, drink and put off leaving.QC-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 45, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 19 74, www.v-teple.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €. PTASW Terrassa Terrassa features an open kitchen, wonderful views from the sixth floor that almost make you feel like you’re in the sky, and stylish interiors. The menu is gargantuan, almost shocking: each turn of the page is like discovering a new restaurant. A short list of the cuisines on offer include Georgian, Russian, Thai, pan-Asian, sushi, pastas, pizzas, salads, seafood, and soups: you name it and they seemingly seem to have it on the menu. The wine list is extensive and features an elite wine section with bottles priced up to 430,000Rbl. The resident DJs make this restaurant almost feel like a club, but the music is not overpowering. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37, www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAULVESW Vinostudia Vinostudia derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to sip great wine, this is a good choice. As you might expect from a gastrobar, there is a nice selection of zakuski; pinchetos, olive plate, cheeses - all of which complement your drink. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Open 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. €€. PASW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Volga-Volga Volga Volga can be found on a functioning riverboat. Between May and October the ship cruises up and down the Neva providing breathtaking views and a literally dynamic atmosphere. The menu mainly relies on seafood and rightfully so: the place offers an unprecedentedly authentic Tom Yum and most of other fish offerings are refreshing and sophisticated enough to please a true connoisseur. Catch the Volga Volga boat on a summer weekend night to admire the views of the drawn bridges and enjoy the parade of future socialites in the making while the mighty of this world are loosening up on the dance floor.QD-1, Petrovskaya nab. 8, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 83 38, www.ginza-volga.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAEGSW Zig Zag Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this newly opened restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It’s not exactly easy to find, but once you do - you can’t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you’ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beet-root or even any pickles that they produce themselves. QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW Vladimirsky pr.12 tel:8(921)962-54-76 events@questepasta.com www.questepasta.ru www.questepasta.com

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Italian Barbaresco The central restaurant in a double-decker trio housed in the former imperial stables, this particular venue specializes in simple, but high-end Italian food and takes it’s name from the wine produced in the Piedmont region in the north of Italy. The lofty space is done in muted earth tones that compliment the exposed brick and beams and is littered with wine bottles and black and white photos. All the dishes are deliciously executed in filling portions, but we recommend going for either of the multi-course tasting menus for a luxurious dinner that will leave you lingering in the warmth of satisfaction. Mind the sommelier, who unlike any other we had ever seen, will actually sample your wine first before pouring you a trial sip. QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 647 82 82, www.barbarescoitaliano.com. Open 08:45 01:00, Fri 08:45 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW

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June - July 2014

Where to eat

Capuletti This sprawling Italian restaurant has a cute cafe/deli style area in the front overlooking the street and wide balconies, tables, vines and soaring ceilings in the back. Decorated in a homely country style the many areas suit both intimate meals and family dinners. The pizzas are a great choice coming straight from a stone wood-fired oven and the grilled dishes are also definitely worth opting for. QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 74, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 22 82, www.capuletti.info. Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 09:00 until last guest. €€. PTAVESW Grato Trattoria If you are looking for a restaurant which differs from the restaurants in the centre, Grato Trattoria is the place to go. Here you can taste authentic Italian food or try something a little more unusual. Located on Moskovsky prospekt with its Stalinist architecture, this is a very comfortable restaurant where you can feel at home and away with the pleasures of Italy.QMoskovsky pr. 171, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 34 23, www.grato-trattoria.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest (kitchen open 10:00 - 22:45). €€. PTASW Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. 40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat

Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. With spacious interiors and set in the peaceful environment of Krestovsky Island - Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW

Makaronniki Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for style points with their summer terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and even a sandbox for the kids. Enjoy unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum in background - along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

tov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW

Marcelli’s Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonav-

Quest’è Pasta Founded by member of St. Petersburg’s Italian community, this is a restaurant for Italians and those who appreciate everything Italian. The first floor has a discrete design with pastel colours. The second storey is decorated like a 19th century mansion with a fireplace, high ceilings and stucco walls. On celebrations you can hear live opera music. The menu does not include the pizzas typical in most Italian restaurants, but can enjoy some of the chef’s specialties. A bottle of Italian wine is always a good addition to your evening meal! For desert, then there is no doubt about it, panna cotta or lemon cake.QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 921 962 54 76, www.questepasta. ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAESW

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Jamie’s Italian There are restaurants which carry this name in more than 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and people are hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www. jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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Where to eat ROOF TOP TERRACES Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top terraces and bars where you can not only enjoy fantastic views and the unbridled sunshine but also try some very delicious food and fresh summer drinks! Makaronniki QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Mansarda QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALSW miX in St. Petersburg QD-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW Moskva QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW Moskva City QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity.spb.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW Terrassa QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37, www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAULVESW Victoria QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW

Where to eat REstaurants in hotels Courtyard Marriott Pushkin’s summer fun From May 8 to September 30 the Courtyard St. Petersburg Center West/Pushkin Hotel is offering special deals that include bicycle hire while staying at the hotel. Cycling is becoming ever more popular in St. Petersburg and it makes for a great way to visit the city’s tourist attractions. The Bike-Package includes a standard room in the hotel, breakfast and a bike for the entire stay at the hotel and is available at any time of day and night. Bierstube offering new menu. The Marriot’s restaurant and brewery is offering a new menu which is good news to those who enjoy a hearty meal with their beer. The new menu includes such favourites as pan-fried shrimps glazed with sweet chili sauce, fish and chips - deep fried cod fillet in beer batter and their signature homemade apple strudel with vanilla sauce. And if you loved their old menu, relax, Bierstube have kept the old favourites and added some new ones too!QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. French Summer at the KEMPINSKI The panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant which is located on the 9th floor of the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers guests a new seasonal menu full of original French dishes. Executive Chef Christophe Laplaza has almost completely updated the menu, adding some of the dishes that he cooked during his time at Michelin-starred restaurants all over the world. Christophe recommends trying this summer’s delicious appetisers and main courses of seafood, delicate meat and fresh vegetables. Each dish is a fine work of culinary art and an extraordinary gourmet experience. In summer The Bellevue Brasserie opens its famous Summer Terrace. Its 360-degree dining venue offering spectacular views over the main historical attractions of the city centre: Palace Square, Hermitage Museum, St Isaac’s Cathedral and the Church on Spilled Blood. Until the end of August the Bellevue Brasserie and Summer Terrace are open from 12:00 until 03:00. Live DJ music will be performed every evening from 21:00 to 24:00!QD-2, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.

Grand Hotel opens Grand Terrace The Grand Hotel Europe has opened its terrace so that you can enjoy fresh air and sun while dining at their prestigious restaurants. To accompany the new season and the fresh air they are opening the Fresh Bar with a range of sushi, seafood products, truffles and salads. The menu at the Grand Terrace includes pizzas, pasta, and Russian classics offering the best of Russian cuisine, while the ice-cream desert section includes some of North Americas most popular and delicious delicacies. And one more good news! To welcome the summer season, the Grand Hotel Europe is offering a new service to its guests - bicycle hire. The steel coloured bikes by Bickerton are equipped with everything you need to tour the city by bike - helmets, jackets, a mini first-aid kit, a bike lock and even a mobile phone for a direct link with the concierge if needed. Guests are also offered a map with several different tours suggested to ensure an interesting and safe trip round the city, with suggestions for ideal picnic spots in the city’s suburbs. The bikes also comfortably fit in the boot of a car so they can be taken further afield for more intrepid excursions.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com.

Taleon’s Victoria Restaurant offers Grand Dining If you are looking for a pleasant way to spend your Sunday try the open terrace at the Victoria restaurant, located on the sixth floor of the Taleon Imperial Hotel in St Petersburg. Bring your friends and family along to enjoy exquisite cuisine, live music and superb service at the Victoria restaurant every Sunday, from 13:00 to 17:00. Master chef Alexander Dregolsky creates a new six course menu each week.QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. A four-course menu is 2,800Rbl per person, full menu is 4,200Rbl per person. Sunday dinner menu includes Sparkling Wine, House Wines, Russian vodka and mineral water.

Summer in a glass! Enjoy summer specials at the Barbazan restaurant and Cannelle Bar & Café of Radisson Royal Hotel, St. Petersburg! Experience new edges of taste with the dishes in stemware, or go for the summer classic with ice-cream. The new summer menu includes cold beetroot soup with croutons and salmon; tomato gazpacho with bread toasts; cucumber soup with mint; vegetable crudites with dzadziki sauce and much more! Sounds delicious!QE-3, Radisson Royal Hotel, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotelstpetersburg. €€.

Summer comes to Novotel Enjoy the best of the warm summer weather with shashliks and salad in the very centre of the city. The Novotel St. Petersburg Centre has opened its terrace and is offering a real Russian summer experience with none of the discomfort or inconvenience of leaving the city. Enjoy your shashliks in comfortable chairs, without the smoke, with world class service and food prepared by the Novotel’s master chef.QE-3, Novotel St. Petersburg Centre, ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!

Artsy and Underground Belochka & Mielofon As tricky to find as all St. Petersburg’s underground bars tend to be, head down Bankovsky pereulok and turn into the dark side street at house 3, turn right and go up to the end of the even darker and creepy looking yard and listen out for the music coming from a basement. Down in the tartan wallpapered basement you’ll find two rooms, one a beer hall style area for drinking and chatting and the other a louder dance floor area with the obligatory table-football installed. QD2, Bankovsky per. 3, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 212 85 06. Open 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PEW Borodabar Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar. ru. Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW

Cafe-Bar Produkty Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe – the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW

Bars and Pubs Bristol Pub Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - everything here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs of the 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the England of the time. Don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the cooking - everything’s simply done, but very tasty. The menu is a combination of European and Russian dishes as well as a large assortment of beers and other kinds of alcoholic beverage.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW

Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW Mollie’s Irish Pub St. Petersburg’s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky, offers just what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie’s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly. su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 01:00. PASW Mollie’s Mews A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on ulitsa Rubinshteina. What they are missing in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW Molly Island Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, friendly staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the perfect place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, if you don´t feel like travelling all the way to the centre.QB-1, Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW

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Molly Shelter Shelter is the right word for this snug little basement Irish Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle in, relax and take shelter. The basement’s careful restoration gives the pub a very authentic look and the various bits of antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness.QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW The Office Pub This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW

To read about even more clubs and bars in St. Peterburg check out our website st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife Clubs Barrel This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. There’s an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW Dacha This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Dom Byta The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl?QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Radiobaby With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www. radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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June - July 2014

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Kazan Cathedral: Modelled on St Paul’s Cathedral in Rome the Kazan Cathedral was built21in 1801-1811. The dome is 80 metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky prospect has 96 columns. FURSHTATS

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B 1 St. Isaacs Cathedral:6Built from 1818 to 1858 and cost 12 Arts square: is a monument to pre-Soviet centralisation. 3 74 purchase price of Alaska. The27cathedral’s K more than the The square gives your access to The Russian Museum, the EthOY U 14 dome is 101 metres high. During the Soviet period the tury. The Soviets turned nographic Museum, the Maly Opera and Ballet Theatre, the 55 K O 8 PE it into a museum of aristocratic life. L. L OKOLN SHCH Hall of the St. Petersburg Philharmonic. R. cathedral was turned into the MuseumUof Large Concert YA L . the History of It is still used as a museum. UL. AAnumKOV ERBALOMONOSOVA ber of restaurants A Religion and Atheism and Faucault’s and cafes are also located around the square. P E 39 K AYPendulum was hung PL. R DOSTOEVSKAYA . S 11 7 St. Catherine’s Basilica: This as evidence that the EarthZrotates AP is the oldest Catholic 7 AN around Uthe L . Sun and LO 13 RA A exist. You can UZNECwas 17 Ploschad Vostaniya (Uprising Square): was origitherefore that God couldKnot in 1783 with Alexandrinsky Theatre: The neo-classicalKtheatre YA visit both the church in Russia. The church was completed 7 M . 59 a T K A L H O K U S NO in 1832 and is40one of the best theatres in the coun-NY Pnally ER. named after a nearby church which was pulled down 7 ELEZ Vcathedral and the columns (a separate opened NS ticket) which give dome that is 342 8 metres high. The churchINwas run by various VLADIMIRSKAYA SO PE and ransacked ISTO you89wonderful views of the city. DA 13 4 R 15 monastic orders over its history. It was closed try. It offers a range of classical and contemporary perforand replaced with the Oktyabrskaya Hotel. The square’s V 7 B R H AU A . AZ SADOVAYA R in 1938. The church returned to active service in 2003. mances. In front of the theatre is a statue of Catherine the new name celebrates the revolution. In 1985 an obelisk SHOPPING L G7 M 1 . 53 DZ 8 7 was the Winter Palace of the SENNAYA PL. 2 Hermitage: The Hermitage Great which13was installed was placed in theCENTER centre of the square to celebrate the 40th IRG 6 HA RA1 in 1873. BO 71 GALERIA YA M 9 0 8 7 was financed by SV Russian tsars and is now one of Russia’s leading museums. It’s PL. Armenian Church: This church anniversary of the end of World War II. The square is a vital ORO ZY SENNAYA 2 ROthe BU 1 EF EC art gallery focuses transport hub with the Moscow Railway Station, a metro EZ This two storey D L . I D 14 AnnaRNova M collection includes works from pretty much all of the leading wealthy Armenian businessman Ioakhim Lazarev. This Art Gallery: A H ZH IN 74 P NO PE O SEMYONOVSKAYA 4 Y S A R 0 western European painters, including a fine 19thL.and 20th small, elegantVchurch was built in 1771-1776. In 1930 the on young, up-and-coming local artists and is a great place to station and a bus station all adjoining it. K Y AU . DN 3 PL. AY 13 YA U see it to- church was closed O pop in for a visit. The curators ULexperts from PnoERless century French collection. The Winter Palace as are A U 1 ORjust L. and 91 theB.original interiors and icon. an YA we 7 3 . A A 0 115 G L day was largely constructed under Catherine the5 Great in the ostasis lost. During WorldNWar II it was used as the head institution than the State Hermitage museum, it is probably not V A . With Peter the Great still alive Nevsky was Z Y DO stormed by the quarters for anti-aircraft mid to late 18th century. The buildingAwas surprising that exhibitions typically present traditional works on EK defence. It was returned to the 4 R known as the Big Prospekt S 4 Bolsheviks during the November Revolution of 1917. Church in 1990.NKY paper or canvas though with modern pop sensibilities. BO

What to see

What to see Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside town though. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

BRIDGES Bridges going up… Dvortsovy

01:05 - 04:50

Blagoveshchensky

01:25 - 02:45

03:10 - 05:00

Sampsonievsky

02:10 - 02:45

03:30 - 05:00

Grenadersky

02:45 - 03:45

04:20 - 04:50

Kantemirovsky

02:45 - 03:45

04:20 - 04:50

Troitsky

01:35 - 04:50

Liteiny

01:40 - 04:45

Birzhevoy

02:00 - 04:55

Tutchkov

02:00 - 02:55

Bolsheokhtinsky

02:00 - 05:00

Volodarsky

02:00 - 03:45

Alexandra Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10 Finlyandsky

02:20 - 05:30

50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

03:35 - 04:55 04:15 - 05:45

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Cruiser Avrora The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself!QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.

Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great

St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97

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CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the insides and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 days options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com. 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Summer Garden Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths.QD-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos June - July 2014

What to see

Hermitage

Churches

Museums

The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.

St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past.

St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage art gallery, to museums about the city’s famous writers, including Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to vodka (of course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also see castles and palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle, and the Menshikov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is now The State Museum of History of St Petersburg. Also, for one night every year in May, all of the museums in the city open their doors until the early hours for the Night of the Museums, which is very popular with tourists and locals alike!

The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices). QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.

F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone. Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.

Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Grandmaket (Russia in miniature) QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend 450Rbl, children 250Rbl. House of Peter the Great QD-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 45 76, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 70 - 200Rbl. Museum of the History of Religion QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avantgarde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www. polithistory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl. Suvorov Memorial Museum QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.

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Lyrical City With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them.

Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.

modern art centres If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2000 works. Anna Nova Art Gallery QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Borey Art Centre QD-3, Liteiny pr. 58, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 38 37, www.borey.ru. DiDi Art Gallery QB-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 62, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 73 57, www.didigallery.com. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. S.P.A.S Gallery QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. ROSPHOTO QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. June - July 2014

What to see PARKS

St. Petersburg is home to many parks and gardens in which you can while away an afternoon. They are romantic and beautiful, whether dipped in sunlight or blanketed in snow. The Summer Garden is the oldest, dating back to the 18th Century, and was designed by Peter the Great. A lot of the parks are home to cafes and other facilities for visitors. Yelagin Park, located on Yelagin Island, is one of the most popular parks in the city, and often hosts various events throughout the year. The parks are great places to get away from the chaos of the city and enjoy nature. Tavrichesky Garden QF-3, MChernyshevskaya, www.tavrsad.com. Open 24hrs. Yelagin Park QMKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11, www.elaginpark.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 23:00. Yusupovsky garden QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 50, MSennaya pl. Open 24hrs.

BE MY happy guest This is a new project to give foreign visitors a truly Russian experience to explore the culture and the friendship of the real Russia. Be My Guest arranges home stays for tourists, so you can enjoy a home made meal, spend the evening chatting to your hosts, perhaps even learn how to cook borsch, make Russian pancakes or home made pelmeni. Be My Guest opens up Russian’s homes and Russian’s hearts to you. Discover local traditions, local superstitions and try to discover the secret of the Russian soul. The project also offers a range of unusual cultural programmes that help you understand the domestic side of Russian life and lets you discover what it is like to live like a Russian. Put politics aside and discover this homely world. www.facebook. com/BeMyHappyGuest, tel. (+7) 981 168 07 42 54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

What to see Tours around

Old Soviet Stuff TourS

Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city`s canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. Boat tours will depart daily from mid-April.QD-2, Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www. boattrip.ru. Admission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children, students and return tickets. PAUEK

If you want to see a completely different side of St. Petersburg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old Soviet Stuff Tour. The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of interesting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly decaying communistic factory and some other surprises just around the corner. We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24. Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineering pride. The drive should already be a part of the adventure and with this Volga that certainly was the case! WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since

his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other excursions during the season. Something involving Russian country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says their slogan! Have fun! QTel. (+7) 965 786 26 48, www. wowrussiatours.com. Tours are possible everyday. Pick up point and time are flexible. Admission from 2,000Rbl per person.

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June - July 2014

City Tour Bus Tracing a route around the city’s most popular spots such as St. Isaac’s Square, Avrora, Peter and Paul Fortress, these unique in Russia hopon, hop-off red doubledeckers are a great way to see a lot in just a short time. The route takes just over two hours to complete and there are audio guides that narrate the most fascinating facts and legends about St. Petersburg and its heroes in one of 11 languages, including Japanese, Chinese, Swedish, Finnish and Dutch. An added advantage is that the ticket is valid for a whole day, so you can plan your own city visit as you like, taking your own time for visiting museums, taking photos, lunch or even a beer on an embankment.QD-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69/(+7) 961 800 07 55, www. citytourspb.ru. Start from Ostrovsky sq., departure every 30-60 min from 09:00 till 19:00. Adults 500Rbl, students 400Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl. Tickets can be bought on the bus. PUN Peter’s Walking Tours A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tours one of the best choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. They also have bike tours. For more information and full timetable check out the website. QTel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. Walking tours are held daily until the end of October. Walking tour 650Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see

St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts Visit the grand palaces and parks of the Tsars No visit to St Petersburg would seem complete without seeing Peter the Great‘s famous masterpiece of gold fountains and all things shiny, Peterhof. But south of the “Venice of the North” and along the Finnish Gulf surely must be the region of the world most densely populated with palaces, each with its own splendour to rival Peter’s Summer Palace. These are undeniable symbols of the decadence and absolute power of the Tsars. They are each as different as the tastes and fancies of those who owned them, from austere palaces and immaculate lawns to rolling parkland and landscaped gardens full of surprises. In this feature we‘ve picked out the best parks, palaces and attractions, but there‘s more to be said about them than could ever fit in our guide book - explore them for yourself!

Palaces Fit For A Tsar Much as any self-respecting Russian billionaire wouldn‘t be seen dead without the latest tablet computer and stateof-the-art yacht controlled by smartphone app, Russian nobility settled for only the best in modern innovation and wizardry. Built at the start of the 18th century, Peterhof‘s legendary fountains were an engineering marvel of their time, powered entirely by cleverly manipulated water pressure without the need for pumps. The Alexander Palace in Pushkin (built 1792-96) was early on electrified and telephones were installed; there was even an early lift that went between the children‘s rooms and the Empress’s suite, and a “home cinema” in the Semicircular Hall came later. Another innovation was the first railway in Russia, built in 1837 between Vitebsky Vokzal (then Tsarskoselsky) and Pushkin. At first carriages were drawn by horses taking wealthy residents of the capital to their summer homes in the imperial suburbs. More than just a transfer point, however, the Vitebsky station pavilion was a destination 56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

What to see

in itself and billed as an entertainment centre named the Vauxhall Pavilion, a title later morphed into the term vokzal and adopted to mean any significant railway station. Johann Strauss II and Franz Liszt can be counted among the performers in the late 1830s. The stations at Pavlovsk and particularly in Pushkin are noteworthy for their beautiful art nouveau decoration and elegant chandeliers and mosaics. Life in the palaces around St Petersburg was pretty good for children too, provided, of course, that you were the children of nobility. In the Marble Room of the Alexander Palace, they built a slide that took up over half the room. An even more daring version of this was to be found in the park of the Oranienbaum estate (built from 1710 onwards) further along the Finnish gulf and was a bit like an early rollercoaster. From the elaborate pavilion, one would be propelled downwards over a series of three hills on a cart running along wooden tracks. Sadly (or perhaps fortunately, if you‘ve got a liking for health and safety) all that remains today is one grand pavilion. No expenses were spared in designing the interiors and exteriors of their homes, and all passing European fads were catered to. The Catherine Palace in Pushkin, built in its currently form in 1756 under orders from Empress Elizabeth, used a hundred kilograms of gold for the facade and was so insanely lavish that even Catherine the Great thought it was a bit much. And the most ridiculous and stunning bit of all was the Amber Room, famed for its beauty and once named “the eighth wonder of the world” (though that might have been a slight exaggeration). It was decorated with over six tonnes worth of amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors. After failing to successfully remove it before German forces arrived they covered it with wallpaper hoping nobody would notice, but of course the Germans had heard of it before being installed here it lived in Berlin. It only took the Germans 36 hours to take apart. After being put on show in Königsberg (now Kaliningrad) nobody knows quite where it went, some say buried in a mine, others say on a sunken submarine. Whilst the fate of the original Amber Room remains a mystery, great efforts have been made to recreate it with the help of a generous benefactor, and it can now be seen at the palace once again in all its full glory. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Of course no luxury palace would be complete without immaculate gardens in the latest styles. Peter was inspired by formal French styles at Peterhof, whilst at Pavlovsk the English landscape garden with sweeping lawns, lakes and pavilions was the flavour of the day. All sorts of exotic cultures had their moment in high fashion. The Catherine Park is a testament to this and is brimful of quirky bridges and stylized buildings. One of the largest is the Chinese Village, originally based on one of Catherine the Great‘s engravings, consisting of ten tiny houses and a theatre. Fake romanticlooking ruins, Egyptian and Greek temples, Dutch castles, an entire miniature world tour could be taken around the palace grounds. At Pavlovsk (built from 1777 onwards), Maria Fedorovna, the widow of Tsar Paul I, put a few more practical touches into the park. Yet another German princess who married into Russian royalty, Maria Fedorovna often wanted to be apart from the intrigues of court and built herself a dairy in the palace gardens. Distinguished guests would be offered simple country fare and dairy products in contrast to the riches of the palace table. The Empress herself was even known to milk a cow or two.

The People behind the Palaces Our story starts with the man who once stood on a windswept beach looking out at the Finnish Gulf and announced that here he would build his capital: Peter the Great, founder of St. Petersburg. His shiny new city was to be a window onto Europe and a symbol of a new enlightened Russia, and he needed somewhere to watch over it all from. The Versailles-style palace at Peterhof was the perfect way to tell the world that Peter was a modern, Europeanstyle leader and could win wars and throw lavish parties with the best of them. Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov, a palace further west along the coast from Peterhof, was perhaps most beloved by Peter III, husband of Catherine the Great. Though he brought in a number of democratic reforms such as disbanding the repressive secret police, making killing peasants illegal and allowing aristocrats to travel abroad, he remained unpopular, so much so that after six months on the throne he was allegedly assassinated. Somehow, people seemed to like him a bit better after that, and there were several popular revolts led by people posing as Peter, most notably the Pugachev rebellion. Of all the palaces in the area, Oranienbaum was the only one to escape capture in World War Two, at which time it was a school; some say that Peter‘s ghost saved the children from bombardment. And so from the early glory days of Peter the First to the last days of the Romanovs; after abdicating, Tsar Nicholas II and his family spent their last days at the Alexander Palace chopping and collecting firewood, clearing away snow and creating a kitchen garden, watched over by revolutionary soldiers. The palace that had once been their playground was now their prison. The end of an era for these palaces and for Russia came on August 1st, 1917, when the Bolsheviks came to take them away, never to return. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station. Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof ). By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. To Peterhof you can also take the Meteor speedboat from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2. See more: www. peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof.

June - July 2014

What to see

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces 250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. Pavlovsk QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. Peterhof QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and students 300Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. Pushkin QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl. Strelna QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. Excursion in English 3,000Rbl (1,5 hour up to 15 people, each participant has to pay individual admission 300Rbl.) 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

What to see Attached onto the side of the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo is the Imperial Lyceum, whose most famous pupil, Alexander Pushkin, went on to become Russia‘s most famous and important poet. At the age of 14 he wrote his “Recollections at Tsarskoe Selo”, which brought him fame amongst poetry circles of the day. Even at the time (the start of the 19th century) he felt that the town had already fallen from its former greatness, writing in the “Recollections”: “Here every step gives birth to recollections in the soul of years gone by”. Looking around, with a sigh the Russian proclaims: “All has disappeared, the great is no more!”, “Those golden times have forever passed by”. Pushkin‘s poetry was no less beloved in the Soviet Era, hence the renaming of Tsarskoe Selo - the “Royal Village” - to Pushkin. A much more anonymous but no less important role in the history of the parks and palaces south of the Northern Capital was played by the employees of Peterhof, Pavlovsk and Pushkin during the Second World War. As news came of the arrival of enemy forces on Soviet territory, the workers of the estates had the monumentous task on their hands of somehow protecting these historic sites. Some of the important statues were buried and marked on a map so they could be located again. At Pavlovsk, Noah‘s Ark-style, one piece of each furniture set was saved and the rest left behind. They worked by candlelight, covered the floors with sand, boarded up the windows, and just as the opposition army approached the town’s outskirts, the last vehicles of precious goods set off for soon-to-be-besieged Leningrad. In their absence the stately homes and parks became shells of their former selves, but at least some of their hidden treasures remained safe. Though many of the palaces south of St. Petersburg are now museums, one at at least has returned to serve its original purpose - housing the country‘s rulers. The Konstantinovsky Palace in Strelna (originally completed in 1807) is an official residence of President Vladimir Putin, who in 2001 had it rebuilt after it was largely destroyed by German occupation, when it was used a naval base. It was originally to be the site of Peter the Great‘s summer palace, but when the site was found to be unsuitable for the complex fountains he wanted, it was passed over in favour of a location further along the Finnish Gulf which went on to be the famous Peterhof. Practicalities that stopped the 18th century architects of the palace were no match for Putin and the original vision for fountains and bridges were finally brought to life. Not far from the palace is the dacha of Peter von Lindström, doctor to a branch of the Romanov family; nowadays the building hosts a restaurant and a museum of the 2006 G8 summit, as well as an intriguing exhibit named “3 minutes with Putin”. Don‘t get too excited - sadly you don‘t get to talk to the man himself, but just watch as he ruffles some papers, reads the History of the Baltic Flotilla and thinks important thoughts at the window to a soundtrack of atmospheric music. Accompanied, of course, by his faithful advisor and beloved labrador Connie Paulgrave, who really merits a feature to herself. It‘s all done with clever mirrors apparently. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Happily Ever After?

raketa MUSEUM

Strangely enough, we owe much about the estates‘ current condition to the Soviets, who uncharacteristically looked kindly on this part of Tsarist history, starting to rebuild them straight after the war. Aleksei Shchusev, the architect of the Lenin Mausoleum, said: „If we do not do this, we who know and remember these palaces in all their glory as they were, then the next generation will never be able to reconstruct them.“ It was quite a hunt to track down where the palaces‘ furniture and other items had got to - some had got as far as Latvia and even beyond. Strolling around any of the palaces or parks you can appreciate what a momentous task the restoration of these historic sites was, especially without the unlimited workforce and bottomless wallets of the Tsars. But it‘s still an ongoing project; to raise funds to recreate the stupendous opulence of Catherine Palace in Pushkin, for example, its grandest rooms have been leased out to stars like Elton John for a one-off concert. The estates are favourites with both the local public and tourists, picnics with friends, holiday photo opportunities or family days out. Thanks to the careful restoration they‘ve undergone, they are a window onto a vanished world of extremes and one which ended abruptly with the Revolution. Fittingly, they are now open to be enjoyed not by a select, wealthy few, but by all.

After a 10 year hiatus the Petrodvorets Watch Factory Museum reopened on 12 April. Here you can find unique archives dating back to the time of Peter the Great and historical watches which have been worn since the 19th century. The museum has Leonid Brezhnev’s watch as well as the model which was made to celebrate the 1980 Moscow Olympics. The museum exhibition shows several stages of development of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory from the 18th century to our day, including a section on the Soviet period. An excursion also includes a visit the factory where you can observe the finesse involved in watch manufacturing. Founded by Peter the Great in 1721 the factory produces the Pobedy (Victory) brand of watch which was produced in the 1940s and the Raketa (Rocket) brand designed in honour of Yury Gagarin’s 1961 space flight. The factory is one of the last in the world that produces all its watch parts and mechanisms. www.raketa.com

A PERFECT WEEKEND GETAWAY!

Peterhof, St. Peterburgsky Prospect, 34 Phone + 7 812 319-10-10, fax + 7 812 319-10-92 E-Mail info@new-peterhof-hotel.com

The New Peterhof Hotel is a unique blend of elegant interiors, modern ecological design, high-level service and fascinating landmarks of the world famous Peterhof palace, parks and fountains which are located right in front the hotel. Most of the hotel’s 150 comfortable and spacious guest rooms have beautiful views over the Upper Park of Peterhof Palace, Olga’s Pond or Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral. Culinary delights await you in our gastronomic pub ‘Duck & Drake’ and our ‘Beaubelle’ SPA and Fitness center rounds up the offer.

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June - July 2014

What to see

Where to stay

Peterhof Must-Visits To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. It is telling that the very first palace to be built here was named Monplaisir (My Pleasure). The best known, however, is of course the Great Palace, built on a 16 meter bluff overlooking the lower gardens and out onto the gulf, and its legendary cascading fountains. Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, Russian and French architects alike. It goes without saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less a building than the Hermitage. To call the interiors merely opulent would be a mistake. Rastrelli,

Gatchina palace

From the outside it may have the austere look of a military institution, but step inside and you can tell that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, though the rooms are not as luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina’s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina’s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park with its many brooks and bridges is a great place to stretch your legs or have a picnic in the sun! Getting there: From Moskovskaya metro, in the street behind the Lenin statue take bus N431 or marshrutka 18 and 18A; from Baltisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also called Baltisky.Q45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92, www.gatchinapalace.ru. Park open 06:00 - 23:00. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed first Tue of the month. Admission to the park is free. Admission to palace and pavilions in the park 120 - 250Rbl. Family ticket (two adults and children) 600Rbl. 60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome ornaments and artworks complete the grandiose royal residence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage incurred during the Second World War. Of particular note is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a frigate exploded in an Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction. The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny stuff.. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to a round of spot the mythological heroes while you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. Almost every Greek god you can think of is up on a pedestal here. All of the palace’s 173 fountains, jets, water arches, sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.

Whether you are visiting for a night in St. Petersburg or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms.

Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation

Where to stay in Peterhof New Peterhof Hotel QSt. Peterburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www. new-peterhof.com/en.

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June - July 2014

Where to stay Ask the Concierge

Interview with Vage Matevosyan, Senior Concierge, Member of Les Clefs D’Or Russia, Concierge of Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg. Please tell us something about yourself. I started my hotel career as bellman in Corinthia hotel when I was 18. At that time I didn’t realize it was the turning point in my life. Frankly, I graduated as a economist but after 10 years hotel experience I can’t imagine myself working anywhere but the hotel industry. The best part of being a concierge is that it is never the same. Every day I have different people with different requests. It is never boring. White nights are upon us now, where should we go? White nights are the peak season for the city, when the hotels are almost all occupied. One of the most spectacular city symbols is the opening of the bridges especially during white nights. Every night more than a thousand people come to the Neva embankment or take boat trips to see the mysterious show. While during this season even the short walk along the Fontanka or Moyka rivers can put you in a romantic and poetic mood. There are a lot of cultural events during that time. For example, everybody have the opportunity to experience the outstanding performance The Stars of the White Nights Festival at the Mariinsky Theatre What are the most challenging requests you receive during summer? I like my work for the unpredictable and non-routine moments, I can never know what else a sophisticated quest might request: roof top tours, ballooning, fishing in Ladozhskoe lake and even wedding management on the Finnish Gulf shore. Where do you like to go when it’s too hot in the city? As for me the shortest way to escape the city and take some fresh air is to go to Krestovsky island, the smartest suburb within the city. The huge park with sports facilities, amusement park and a wide range of restaurants with open terraces near the river will help to forget the rush and heat of the big city. 62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Where to stay 4 Stars

3 Stars

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 214 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. Nevsky Forum QE-3, Nevsky pr. 69, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 02 22, www.nevskyforum.com. 29 rooms. Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pribaltiyskaya QA-3, Ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 26 26, www.parkinn.com. 1200 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms. Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms . Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms. Vedensky Hotel QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS 37, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 42 22, www.alrosa-hotels.ru/hotels/st-petersburg/. 158 rooms.

3 Mosta Hotel QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 332 34 70, www.3mosta.com. 26 rooms. Amaranta Admiralteyskaya Hotel QC-3, Ul. A. Bloka 8, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 495 44 65, www.amaranta.ru. 54 rooms. Andersen Hotel QC-1, Ul. Chapygina 4, bldg. A, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 51 40, www.andersenhotel.ru. 140 rooms. AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya QE-3, Stremyannaya ul. 18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www.stremyannaya-hotel.com. 49 rooms. Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. Hotel Vera QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 25/16, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 61 90, www.hotelvera.ru. 70 rooms. IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. Stony Island Hotel QC-1, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 337 24 34, www.stonyisland.com. 50 rooms. Vesta QE-3, Nevsky pr. 92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 13 22, www.vesta-hotel.ru. 16 rooms.

Cubahostel QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. 15 rooms. Simple Hostel QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com. 7 rooms.

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Mini-hotels 5th Corner Hotel QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 13, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 81 81, www.5ugol.ru. 52 rooms. AlexanderPlatz QE-4, Voronezhskaya ul. 53, MObvodny kan., tel. (+7) 812 490 48 10, www.eurasia-hotel.ru/alp/en_home. 35 rooms. Art-hotel Rachmaninov QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 97 78, www.hotelrachmaninov.com. 24 rooms. Domik v Kolomne QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 174 bldg. A, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 83 51, www.colomnahotel.ru. 9 rooms.

Hostels

June - July 2014

Shopping

Shopping Russian souvenirs

RAKETA WATCHES

YellowKorner

Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following:

Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com

Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. In one of the authentic mansions of Bolshoy Prospect you will find an international gallery YellowKorner, which presents a wide panorama of contemporary and vintage photography worldwide. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones. It’s time to buy art!QD-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. PAW

Moskovsky Department Store

Vladimirsky Passage QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. Open 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Stockmann Delicatessen QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 60 00, www.stockmann.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing. Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The Moskovsky Department Store is a large mall located on Moskovsky prospect, one of the city’s main roads as you approach St. Petersburg from the airport. The shopping centre is located on both sides of the road with departments for men, women and children. With a total area of 10.5 square kilometers there should be something for everyone and as the shops are open 24 hours you can get what you need no matter how early or how late. The shopping centre supplies top foreign and Russian brands.QMoskovsky pr. 207, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 44 55, www. moskovsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

Gifts and Souvenirs

Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK

Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

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Shopping centres

Galeria The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at-heart.QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb. ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

June - July 2014

Expat & Lifestyle

Expat & Lifestyle russian for expats Ничего – Ничего means, at its most basic, “nothing”. You can use it in any context in its most literal sense but there’s more to it than just that. If your girlfriend asks you what you think of her dress, you can reply with ничего, not meaning that you don’t think anything of it, but that you feel positively towards it. If you want to tell your girlfriend not to worry, because obviously she looks lovely, you can say ничего ничего, to mean “don’t worry.” You can also use ничего when someone steps on your foot in the metro; if they apologise and you want to say “that’s ok”, simply reply with ничего. If you want to be very English and reply to “как дела” with “fine”, just use your new favourite word: ничего.

Liden & Denz Liden & Denz is one of St Petersburg’s oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Now they have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor (though the original centre off Ligovsky pr. also remains opens). Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz. ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.

Skolko stoit? – How much is it? 66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest that make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.spb@inyourpocket.com.

Cultural Centres and Libraries American Corners QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.amcorners.ru. Open 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign Literature Library QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. Goethe Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Japan Center QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. Fryday Qwww.fryday.net. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily.

Religious Services Catholic Church of St. Catherine QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.

Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group. The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

The Expat Experience My name is Vincenzo Squarciafico. I was born in Lioni, in the province of Avellino and thanks to my profession I live in St. Petersburg. When I was 14 years old I moved to Roccaraso in Abruzzo to study restaurant and hospitality. It was here that I achieved my childhood dream to work in this sector. During all five years of study I also worked in various restaurants and hotels in Abruzzo and summer resort centers on the Adriatic coast. Returning home after graduation I met chef Antonio Pisaniello (1 Michelin star), he introduced me to the world of high art, and working with him gave me great satisfaction. Eighteen months later, I felt the need to improve my English so when I was 21 I went to England. As well as learning in England, I acquired a unique experience in my chosen profession thanks Michael Caines (2 Michelin stars). Then I moved in Russia in St. Petersburg where I began working as a chef for different restaurants. Initially I worked at Enoteca Divina near the Hermitage museum (there I had the honour to cook for celebrities like Andrea Bocelli and Violante Placido) then in the Corinthia Nevskji Palace as chef of the fine dining restaurant, then I moved in Moscow, where I was fortunate to work with Celebrity Nino Graziano (2 Michelin star), restaurant Semifreddo-Mulinazzo. After that I returned to St. Petersburg and found a deal, which could only dream: to work in Grand Hotel Europa, 26 years old as Restaurant Chef, with great pleasure I prepared culinary delights for Russian and International celebrities: Giorgio Armani, Toto Cutugno, Demi Moore, Tonino Guerra, Whitney Houston, Antonio Banderas. After this nice experience I got another important job proposal in Moscow again as Executive Chef for the department of Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Russian Federation where I stayed a year. Now after eight years in Russia I continue to live in St. Petersburg where after two years of hard work with my partner Giuseppe Urso, we started a new restaurant project which is completely Italian, it’s Quest’è Pasta where I work as brand chef and operation manager. I have lived out from Italy from 10 years and of course I miss my home, sunny weather and Italian life. Quest’è Pasta is a new place in St. Petersburg which is completely Italian in style where it’s possible to eat Italian home-made pasta and try 10 different types of coffee espresso, traditional food served following Italian tradition and of course with an Italian atmosphere and Italian music. June - July 2014

Maps

Business Accountants and Lawyers Acsour QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Avenir Group QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Deloitte Touche CIS QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, www.deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PW EMG (Accountants & Consultants) QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Mannheimer Swartling QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Moore Stephens International QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51, www.moorestephens.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www.pgplaw.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PriceWaterhouseCoopers QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business Associations American Chamber of Commerce QC-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia QD-3, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 68 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2014

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Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery.

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Mariinsky Theatre The home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s, the Mariinsky Theatre, is a cultural leader and one of the most illustrious and beautiful theatres in the world.

Find our review on page 37

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Street register

Moscow

1-28-ya liniya

B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.

C-3

Rubinshteina ul.

E-3

Admiralteisky pr.

D-3

E-2

Ryleeva ul.

E-2

Kovensky per.

Alexandra Nevskogo most

F-3

Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.

F-2

Sadovaya ul.

E-2,3

Angliskaya nab.

C-3

Kronverkskaya nab.

D-2

Sampsonievsky most

D-1 E-2

Anichkov most

E-3

Kronversky pr.

D-1

Sapyorny per.

Arsenalnaya nab.

E-2

Kutuzova nab.

D-2/E-2

Shpalernaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Bakunina pr.

F-3

Lermontovsky pr.

C-3/C-4

Shvedsky per.

D-2

Baskov per.

E-2

Letny sad

D-2

Sinopskaya nab.

F-3

Belinskogo ul.

E-2

Leitenanta Shmidta nab.

C-3

Smolnaya nab.

F-2

Birzhevaya liniya

C-2

Ligovsky pr.

E-3/E-4

Solyanoy per.

E-2

Blagoveshchensky most

C-2

Liteiny most

E-2

Sotsialisticheskaya ul.

E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

E-2

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

D-3

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

С-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. – Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. – Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. – Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. – Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. – Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. – Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. – Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. – Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. – Malaya

72 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 20:00. Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

June - July 2014

Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

74 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The Ginza Project has been involved in establishing and managing restaurants since 2003. The company now operates more than 100 projects in the hospitality business with interests in Moscow, St. Petersburg, New York, Washington, Miami and London. The company’s calling card is the high qualifications of the staff, stylish interior designs, a cosy atmosphere and high quality cooking. The menus include European, Italian, Russian, Japanese and Middle Eastern dishes. The restaurants often hold events with Russian and international stars putting on performances along with guest chefs to really treat the appetite. Flight Discount - from June 1 to August 31 visit Pryanosti and Radosti at Moskovsky pr. 191, show your flight ticket and get a 20% discount within 24 hours of your flight.

hotels Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

GINZA

Call center: +7 (812) 640-16-16 | E-mail: spb@ginzaproject.com | www.ginzaproject.ru