Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks” The New York Times
October - November 2013
Local charities saving children’s lives
Cultural Capital Fashion weeks, rock performances and theater festivals
October - November 2013 No91 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
A word from our editor
Some useful information 8 15
Features Charity in Russia Raketa watch factory
A fine selection of places to spend the night
Bars, pubs and clubs Further afield
Expat and Lifestyle 48 Expat experience, religious services and more Getting around Transport, tickets and more 51 Maps 52
Culture and Events Concerts, exhibitions and sport Dutch Days
What to buy and where
Whatâ€™s new in the city
Basics and Language
Russia Moscow Veliky Novgorod Samara Yaroslavl Sochi Petrozavodsk Kazan
56 57 59 60 61 62 64 66
October - November 2013
Foreword The latter days of fall are often cursed, But as for me, kind reader, she is precious In all her quiet beauty, mellow glow. Thus might a child, disfavored in its family, Draw my regard. To tell you honestly, Of all the times of year, I cherish her alone. She’s full of worth; and I, a humble lover, Have found in her peculiar charms.
Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cover story The cover of this issue was drawn by a Anna Burilova as part of the Helping is easy! project. The project raises awareness and funds for treating children with cancer. See our special feature article on charity in Russia on page 16-17.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, email@example.com russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, firstname.lastname@example.org General director Tanya Skvortsova, email@example.com Director Sales & Strategy Jerke Verschoor, firstname.lastname@example.org © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No91, 01.10.2013, 90.000 copies © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl For children aged 16 years and over.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Alexander Pushkin, 1833
Autumn, a season Alexander Pushkin loved most because of the physical and creative upsurge it always gave him. Pushkin rated it as the finest season to be in Russia. And I couldn’t agree more. Believe me, St. Petersburg is at its best during the cool, crisp days of autumn. There’s something romantic about this time. Autumn is high blue skies, cool sunshine and changing leaves. So congratulations, if you are holding this guide it means you are at the right place at the right time. One of the best ways to spend a sunny October weekend is exploring one (or two!) of St. Petersburg’s imperial suburbs. The season changes so quickly it’s just wonderful to see the leaves changing colour. Our sentimental readers may want to keep a few red/gold/yellow leaves a souvenir bookmarks in books and diaries, while others prefer to just make piles of them to fall into and take pictures. Ok, enough about leaves. The ones who are not so crazy about nature will find a lot of fun stuff to do in the city. The weather may be cooling down, but St. Petersburg’s cultural scene is just heating up. The city stages more compelling events and exhibitions now than at any other time of year. So, regardless of what you you like to do we’ve got some great ways to see beautiful things when you’re visiting St. Petersburg. This guide will help you experience the best of St. Petersburg this autumn, including the greatest theatrical performances, rock concerts, fashion weeks, jazz festivals and live music shows that you need to know about.
Mikhailovsky 180th Anniversary
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It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
Editor Ksenia Elzes, email@example.com Peter Campbell, firstname.lastname@example.org Layout & Design Malvina Markina email@example.com Research firstname.lastname@example.org PR Ksenia Elzes, email@example.com
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 90 000 экз. No91. 01.10.2013 Для детей старше 16 лет.
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Russia In Your Pocket 10 Years
In November 2013 the Mikhailovsky Theatre celebrates its 180th anniversary and is promising a spectacular season of opera and ballet. The Mikhailovsky Theatre was designed by Alexandr Briullov to carefully fit within the architectural ensemble of Arts Square. With a modest façade the interior set a striking contrast with the rich use of silver, velvet, mirrors, crystals, paintings and stucco mouldings. The theatre was opened on 8 November 1833 and over time became synonymous with the fine arts. The theatre was expanded in 1859 and became an established part of the social life of St. Petersburg’s elite, with frequent visits from the imperial family. During the Soviet period the theatre was used for comic opera and saw the debut of such performances as The Nose and The Queen of Spades. It came to be seen as a laboratory for Soviet opera and continued to work with contemporary composers throughout the Soviet period. It was the first theatre to perform Sergey Prokofiev’s War and Peace. In more recent years the theatre has performed Russian classics such as Boris Godunov, Eugene Onegin and Prince Igor. www.mikhailovsky.ru Ten years ago in a brave move, a Dutch couple bought a cat on Nevsky Prospect – Russian cats having a notorious reputation, especially the Nevsky kind. They named the cat Kees and the amiable feline was an instant success story – becoming the first model for St. Petersburg In Your Pocket– started by the same couple. Kees is still the inspiration behind Russia In Your Pocket but today he is a little greyer and has given up the high pressure life of a feline model to offer advice behind the scenes. For Kees’ 10th birthday and the anniversary of what has become Russia’s best and biggest publishing house for visitor guides, rumours abound that the Cat Father behind Russia In Your Pocket and Krasnaya Shapka will be holding a party to celebrate 10 successful years helping tourists, expats and companies get the most out of their opportunities in Russia.
Happy Unity Day November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day!
Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island (Severnaya doroga 21) in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. During the 19th century the island belonged to notable families, the first owner being the sister of Peter the Great, Natalya Alexeevna, who built the first building on the island in the shape of the St. Andrews Cross and cut a cross-shaped patch into the dense forest on the island - which led to the island’s name. The island was used as a summer residence for noble families before becoming a popular park for promenading and sport in the 1860s. The restaurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. With spacious interiors, the opportunity for al fresco dining in the summer and set in the peaceful environment of Krestovsky Island - Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city. The restaurant will be open from mid-October. www.illago.ru
October - November 2013
Basics AND LANGUAGE
Basics AND LANGUAGE
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky русски Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) нравиться May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ маленкий Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо It hurts! Bolno! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, down? pazhalusta пожалуйста Toilets Tualet Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во time? сколько? What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Who? Kto? Кто? How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? No problem Bez problem Без проблем Of course Koneshno Конечно Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! Password Parol Пароль
Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Pocket dictionary: Net Slov! Net Slov! – No words! As you wander around the many wondrous buildings or through the treasure-filled halls of the Hermitage, you may find yourself lost for words. If someone says to you, “Shto vy dumaete?”(what do you think?), a good reply is ‘U menya net slov, adni emotsi’ (I have no words, only emotions). We think this phrase will come in handy at any time, in a museum, as you wander around the city or even if you find yourself on a crowded metro train at peak hour!
Health and Safety
Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00.
Climate Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autumn’ is usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, waterproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.
Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.
Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to show your passport, visa and registration.
Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Bridges Opening Schedule Bridge Dvortsovy Blagoveshchensky Sampsonievsky Grenadersky Kantemirovsky Troitsky Liteiny Birzhevoy Tutchkov Bolsheokhtinsky Volodarsky Alexandra Nevskogo Finlyandsky
Drawing 1:05 - 4:50 1:25 - 2:45, 2:10 - 2:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 2:45 - 3:45, 1:35 - 4:50 1:40 - 4:45 2:00 - 4:55 2:00 - 2:55, 2:00 - 5:00 2:00 - 3:45, 2:20 - 5:10 2:20 - 5:30
3:10 - 5:00 3:30 - 4:25 4:20 - 4:50 4:20 - 4:50
3:35 - 4:55 4:15 - 5:45
Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40
dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok
50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000
pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi
In the restaurant/bar Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, пожалуйста I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее place mesto место I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно!
October - November 2013
Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose.
Concert Halls and Clubs Club A2 (A2) B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm
Club Cosmonavt (COS) D-4, Bronnitskaya ul., 24,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Mikhailovskaya ul., 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. philharmonia.spb.ru Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www. jazz-hall.spb.ru Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. bkz.sp.ru Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www. spbopera.ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru
Theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) E-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, en.alexandrinsky. ru. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www. balet-spb.ru. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, w w w. mikhailovsky.ru. State Theatre of Musical Comedy (MCT) D-3, Italyanskaya ul., 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76
Theatre With Subtitles It is considered to be one of the best theatres in the city, the Small Drama Theatre or European Theatre at Ul. Rubinsteina 18. Conveniently located in the city centre it offers all of its Russian plays with English subtitles. This way it is possible for visitors to see and hear some of Russia’s most famous plays with actual Russian actors in the original language while still understanding what it’s about. October and November see some of Anton Chekhov’s renowned pieces being put to stage. The Three Sisters (27.10, 20.11) and Uncle Vanya (21.11) come highly recommended here and are almost as much of a must-see as Swan Lake in the Mariinsky Theater. Another masterpiece to pay attention to is Vasily Grossman’s magnum opus Life and Fate (17.11), which has been described as the best Russian novel of the 20th century and compared it with Tolstoy’s War and Peace. It is a highly critical account of Soviet life under Stalin. Grossman’s novel – finished in 1960 – could not be published for at least 200 years he was told by the authorities. Under Gorbachev it was in 1988. Ul. Rubinshteina 18, MDostoevskaya. www.mdtdodin.ru
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
29.09 Sunday - 06.10 Sunday
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.parovstelar.com. Parov Stelar is the performance name for Austrian musician and producer Marcus Füreder, who has in recent years taken on the international musical scene, where he has won numerous fans and achieved cult status as a producer. His music has an aura of elegance mixed with aggression and pure energy. Parov Stelar creates new rhythms from retro styles mixing pop, soul and jazz together. His performance is one of the most impressive electronic experiences which can be seen anywhere in the world. Wind and percussion instruments along with the amazing voice of singer Cleo Panther complement Parov Stelar‘s electro-beats, emotionally charging the audience. Despite the hundreds of live performances and constant touring the group is still continuing to expand their creativity and break down the boundaries of musical performances. Q Tickets 1,200 - 4,000Rbl.
Manhattan Short Film Festival 2013
E-3, Dom Kino, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.manhattanshort.com. St. Petersburg is participating in the world‘s largest short film festival which encompasses six continents and over 300 cities around the world. Viewers have the opportunity to vote on the best film out of the 10 festival finalists as well as the best leading actor. The finalists include films from Australia, France, Ireland, United Kingdom and United States of America. The international jury of the viewers will determine which of them will receive the Grand Prix: will it be an animated documentary about furniture restoration, a drama about the life of a black metal singer or a comedy about the messy everyday life of a Finnish family? Or maybe the winner will be a historical drama about a budding 22-year-old director? You decide together with audiences in the United States, Australia, Britain and other countries! The winner of the world audience jury will be announced on 7 October 2013 on the site www.tourdefilm.ru.
20:00 Parov Stelar Band
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. alphaville.info. German group Alphaville is a veteran of the ‘New Wave‘ that continues to perform live concerts. Their recent album Catching Rays on the Giant was their first album for 13 years and made it to ninth place on the German charts. The band first formed in 1982 and was a hit with their first album Forever Young. The band will play material from their latest album as well as their classic hit singles such as Forever Young and Big in Japan. Q Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl.
Rock Autumn This autumn St. Petersburg has a great line up of rock concerts to indulge any taste or fancy. Old time rockers like Scorpions, Deep Purple are coming back, while younger groups promise something a little different. Some of the highlights of autumn are:
20:00 Rock-opera Mozart
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.mozartloperarock.fr. At first glance it might seem that the life and creativity of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart is far removed from rock music but Mozart‘s rebelliousness, success and fall make his fate comparable to that of many talented rock musicians and so, we can say that Mozart was the first true rocker. This new interpretation shows the struggle of talent and hardship, love and intrigue, youth and experience. Mozart l‘Opera Rock le Concert takes the audience to the sumptuous, elegance and intrigue of the 18th century. This rock opera combines rock music with the classical music of the baroque with an captivating story of one of music‘s greatest composers with superb lighting and an energetic cast. Q Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.
20.10 Sunday - 31.10 Thursday
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.oomphonline.com. German group Oomph! promises a show with plenty of energy. The group established themselves in the early 1990s with albums Sperm and Defekt and have appropriated different styles including metal, industrial, alternative rock, electronica and gothic to create their own sound. The trio are known for their scandalous clips that are frequently turned down by MTV but have reached mass media through Hollywood soundtracks and video games. They have performed alongside some of the biggest names in the industry including Marilyn Manson, Skunk Anasie and Him. Q Tickets 1,300 - 4,000Rbl.
D-2, Music Hall, Aleksandrovsky park 4, MGorkovskaya, tel. 380 80 50, www. stage-musical.ru/mammamia. This optimistic and colourful musical is said to be the most successful production in the history of Russian theatre. The musical has sold over a million tickets during its three seasons in Moscow. Mamma Mia! is a romantic comedy with sharp lines and held together by Abba‘s extravagant music. Set on a Greek island, Sofy is about to marry and dreams of the perfect white wedding, the problem is that although she wants her father to lead her to the altar, she has absolutely no idea who he is. Finding her mother‘s diary she realises that her father must be one of three men… The score includes 22 hits by Abba. Q Tickets 900 - 4,000Rbl.
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.martyr-inc.com. If you speak personally to Eric ‘Everlast‘ Schrody he has plenty to say. The musician participated in successful collaborations like House of Pain and LaCoka Nostra. A three-time Grammy Award nominee his albums have twice gone platinum. Perhaps one reason for the success is the meaning which he adds to his music, Schrody explains. “Half of my life I spent as an MC and doing hip-hop. I took the best of all genres and turned it into my own brand of hip-hop using rock, country, jazz and blues,” he says. With this visit to St. Petersburg, Eric Shrody is bringing his latest acoustic album, which the musician claims is a retrospective of his work involving some of his personal work as Everlast and with House of Pain. Q Tickets 1,400 - 3,500Rbl.
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.the-scorpions.com. Scorpions has a long term relationship with Russia which keeps them coming back. Hits like Wind of Change captured the imagination of the Russian public in the 90s and the band‘s willingness to play in Russia has won them a special place in many Russians‘ hearts. Q Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.zemfira.ru. This is the first large concert Zemfira has given in St. Petersburg in the last four years. The famous Russian singer is returning to St. Petersburg with her latest album „Zhit v tvoei golove“ (Living in Your Head) with a concert programme which has been well received in Russia and abroad in the CIS, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany and Finland. The St. Petersburg concert promises to be the culmination of her recent tour with pieces from her new album as well old time hits. As ever Zemfira‘s music is full of tight, complex lyrics with elements of classical rock, guitar and postpunk. Her recent album sold over two million copies in the first month. Q Tickets 1,320 - 4,400Rbl.
October - November 2013
Culture & Events Diaghilev P.S. Festival
Culture & Events 01.11 Friday
23:45 Apollo Brown & Guilty Simpson
23.11 Saturday - 29.11 Friday
Diaghilev P.S. Festival
Tel. (+7) 812 310 10 29, www.diaghilev-ps.ru. Founded to celebrate the anniversary of Sergei Diaghilev‘s Les Saisons Russes in St. Petersburg, the festival encourages cultural exchange of new ideas between Russia and the rest of the world. The 2013 programme has a conference exploring the role of theatre in contemporary fashion, a range of performances including ballet, musical concerts and plays. The festival opens with Angelin Preljocaj‘s Ballet Nights at the Alexandrinsky Theatre. Throughout the week various performances highlight traditional and contemporary elements such as Concert Les Ballets Russes which is a unique performance on four pianos, and Ballet Gods and Dogs by the Bavarian State Ballet with choreography by Jiří Kylián. An exhibition entitled Russian Los-Angeles. Stravinsky, Innovation and Dance explores themes of contemporary ballet in photographs. A series of one act ballet performances written by Nacho Duato will also be performed at the festival. Other performances include Wings of Wax and Soldiers‘ Mass (both choreographed by Jiří Kylián) The festival concludes with a concert The Sound of Peter the Great‘s Epoch featuring music of the 17th century performed on harpsichord at the Sheremetev Palace.
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. apollobrown.bandcamp.com. Apollo Brown was born to a working class family in the town of Grand Rapids, Michigan, and his early musical influences were far from the street culture that‘s became the inspiration for many of today‘s hip-hop artists. But, this does not mean that when Brown discovered rap music his life was turned upside down. Not at all! The 29-year-old beatmaker says creative rapsters such as Gang Starr, Wu-Tang, Mobb Deep, MOP, Na and Black Moon had been inspiring him since the early 1990s. And in 1996, the self-taught beatmaker had already begun trying to compose his own music. Apollo rose to fame after winning the Detroit Red Bull Big Tune Championships. This success he used to the full, signing with Mello Music Group in 2009. Q Tickets 600 - 1,300Rbl.
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. facebook.com/moonspellband. One of the most eclectic and original groups on the Gothic-Metal scene Moonspell will be performing in St. Petersburg. The Portuguese group originally performed black metal with influences from folk-rock before moving on to Gothic metal. The group has continued to develop going into electronica to the extent that they lost some of their fan base who didn‘t want to listen to a heavy version of Depeche Mode. This experimentation has given the group a unique style that doesn‘t clearly fit into any specific genre, the best description the band can come up with is ‘devilish music‘. For their St. Petersburg performance Moonstone will be bringing their new album Alpha Noir which vocalist Fernando Ribeiro describes as “the most enthralling, sexual, lugubrious, heavy and alluring music from Moonspell for many years”. Q Tickets 800 - 1,600Rbl.
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. 7) 812 303 33 33, www.iamx. eu. An individual project by Chris Corner, the leader of the legendary electronic group, Sneaker Pimps. In the early 2000s, Chris quarrelled with the issuing label, quit his team with two unfinished albums and fled foggy London for Berlin. It was in Berlin where the ‘spirit of the music industry is free from the frame and can follow its own independent way‘. Corner began to write music, which is a futuristic cocktail of rock, electronica, indietronica and pop. His rich musical mix is properly seasoned with poetic lyrics, gloomy allegories and political allusions. The new project is called IAMX. Q Tickets 1,400 - 3,400Rbl.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Ledov y Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, w w w.zazofficial. com. French singer Zaz will perform a solo concert for the release of her new album Recto Verso, and will perform a combination of new and old songs for her St. Petersburg fans. The unusual timbre of her voice has been compared to Edith Piaf while the spontaneity, sincerity, anger and rebellion combine to give her performances an impact and energy which has earned her the reputation of being the mocking fairy of the French stage. Q Tickets 1,000 - 6,000Rbl.
20:00 Mylene Farmer
SKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, w w w. mylene.net. Mylene Farmer brings her new show Timeless 2013 to St. Petersburg. The singer has sold over 20 million copies of her albums and has become the biggest hit in the French music industry. She has taken the leader place in the hit-parades more than five times and has made it to number one on French charts 11 times. The singer is known for her mysteriousness, she partially explains this: “In my creative work I never entirely explain everything. My dream is impossible. I don‘t want happiness because I seek an ideal, which does not exist on this world. What is important is not happiness, but the process of trying to achieve it”. The concert supports the release of her new studio album Monkey Me. Q Tickets 1,500 - 15,000Rbl.
20:00 Poets of the Fall
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.poetsofthefall.com. Refinement and tenderness, affectionate sadness, mixed with crazy energy - this is the first association that comes to mind at the mention of Poets of the Fall. There is taste in everything they do: music that entices you, like the flicker of eyelashes from beneath a translucent veil, the fragility of words when you cannot draw your eyes away, to catch the sensuality that pierces his songs and Marco himself with his his magical voice. The romantic love of autumn, yellow-red with drops of rain, the cold air and the rays of the sun that is no longer warm - feelings are sharpened, as never before, the soul is stretched, like a string, ready to break away and ready to pierce that unrestrained affection and desire. It is at this moment that Poets of the Fall is coming to us to share their compressed energy for a bittersweet meeting for all romantics. Q Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl.
3-6 october 2013
The Manege of the First Cadet Corps Universitetskaya nab. 13 www.defilenaneve.ru Our partners and sponsors:
DnN Fashion Week 03.10 Thursday - 06.10 Sunday
DnN St. Petersburg Fashion Week
C-2, The Manege of the First Cadet Corps, Universitetskaya nab. 13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 458 73 89, www.defilenaneve.ru. The DnN St. Petersburg Fashion Week brings together recognised maestros, debutantes and large industrial brands for three days of high fashion. Fashion trends are not random and often reflect a certain reality in which we find ourselves. One of the dominant trends for spring/summer 2014, could be called ‘dangerous innocence‘ - a wonderful combination of mystery and innocence, where natural colours are in perfect harmony with the purity of textures and shapes, identifying a perfect, feminine style and romantic mood. The First Cadet Corps with its 18th century buildings on University Embankment makes for an alluring location for the fashion show which will present more than 20 Russian designers and fashion houses. Key players in the fashion week have included: Fabric Fancy, Vladislav Aksenov, Nataliya Soldatov, Victor Afanasiev, Anna Ovchinnikov and Fashion House Harlen. This fashion week will include a show by the ‘King of the avant-garde‘ Vladimir Bukhinnik. Fashion designer, stage designer, costume design lecturer at St. Petersburg State University of Service and Economics Vladimir Bukhinnik has prepared a new collection especially for the DnN Fashion Week. The guests of the season will be Siberia‘s Tatiana Kiseleva and Moscow fashion designer Oleg Naumov, who is successfully developing Ecomod. Furs from Marina Morozova and Modisteria by Anna Subbotina will also be parading the catwalks.
October - November 2013
Culture & Events AURORA Fashion Week 14.10 Monday 20.10 Sunday
AURORA FASHION WEEK Russia
C-3, The Russian Academy of Fine Ar ts Museum, Univer sitetskaya nab. 17, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 374 96 40, w w w. af wrussia.com. The fashion week will introduce new names and young designers from St. Peterburg, Russia and oth er coun tries. The runway programme and designers’ presentations will be held at the Russian Academy of Fine Arts Museum – a fitting tribute to the designers’ talent and aesthetics of high fashion. As usual, the shows will take place in Raphael and Titian halls. This season a separate hall for presentations will be introduced, where designers will be able to show their collections as installations and performances. The Aurora Fashion Week is known for its continual search for new talent and support of young designers at the very beginning of their careers. This season the following designers will present their collections: Lidia. Demidova, Liza Odinokikhб Za-Za (all from St. Petersburg) and Aleksandr Khrisanfov (Russia). These designers all made their first appearances at the Aurora Fashion Week. This week new names will include: Cap Amerika (Russia), Nanthalat (France), Nytka (France), Oliamarcovich (St. Petersburg). The fashion week also includes educational projects that help inspire designers’ creativity. One of these projects is the Aurora Fashion Week Russian Summer School, which is held during the Seliger Forum. The winners of the contest held during the Summer School will present their collections during Aurora Fashion Week Russia SS14 along with St. Petersburg designers Ianis Chamalidy, Igor Gulyaev, Lilia Kisselenko and Leonid Alexeev. Foreign designers bringing their collections to the Fashion Week include Andreeva (Ukraine), Clarisse Hieraix (France), Tamuna Ingorokva (Georgia); Spijkers en Spijkers (the Netherlands) – this brand will present its collection as a par t of the Netherlands-Russia Year 2013. Aurora Fashion Week Russia collaborates with Fashion Weeks all over the world and continues to introduce new brands to Russia. This season Aldo Järvsoo and Tanel Veenre (Estonia) will present their collections as a part of affiliate program with the Tallinn Fashion Week. Aurora Fashion Week Russia SS14 off-runway program will include shows at separate venues, lectures, exhibitions, professional meetings with designers and parties. One of the key events during Aurora Fashion Week Russia SS14 will be the Fashionomica conference, a professional event that highlights relevant issues to the fashion industry. The Romance with fashion: Alchemy exhibition will be held in the Russian Academy of Fine Arts Museum. The programme will also include Breakfast with the designer meetings that have recently become an integral part of the week.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events 08.11 Friday
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.blueoctober.com. The group formed back in 1995, consisting of your typical Texan blokes who have stayed at it and finally achieved recognition in 2006 with their fourth album Foiled - the band‘s first commercial success. Their single Hate Me quickly became the most frequently ordered track on U.S. radio, the song made it to second place on the Modern Rock chart. Stephanie Meyer, writer of the Twilight series, admitted that the inexhaustible inspiration for her writing was Blue October. Overnight, the Texas band became the focus of a huge legion of fans. The group claim that many of their songs are based on personal experience and it is perhaps for this reason that the band has built up its solid reputation in the half-forgotten genre of pop-rock. Q Tickets 700 - 4,000Rbl.
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.mileskane.com. Miles Kane began his career with The Flames and in 2007 put his own band together The Rascals. However, it wasn‘t until Arctic Monkeys frontman Alex Turner formed The Last Shadow Puppets with him that he achieved fame. The new band recorded their debut album The Age of Understatement in just two weeks and the album reached the top of the UK charts and was nominated for the Mercury Music Prize. In 2011 Kane recorded his first solo album Colour of the Trap (2011) which reached 11th place on the UK album charts. His second album Don‘t Forget Who You Are released in June 2013 made it to eight place. Q Tickets 900 - 3,500Rbl.
20:00 Blue October
Lady in Jazz
20:00 Miles Kane
29.11 Friday 08.11 Friday
20:00 Deep Purple
Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.deeppurple.com. The St. Petersburg performance is part of an international tour to celebrate Deep Purple‘s 45th anniversary. With a new album Now What?! which the musicians claim ‘is beyond musical principles,‘ the band is offering a memorable experience. The band‘s long history and role in forming heavy rock has meant they have sold over 100 million copies while their performances include improvisations, melodic passages and classics that will take everybody back to their teenage years. Q Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.
D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.pratavetra.lv. Latvian band Brainstorm is celebrating its 10th anniversary in Russia with a concert that will bring together their most popular songs. “This is more the conclusion of our work in Russia and we really want to say a big thank you to the Russian public. We feel that something wonderful is taking place around us and within us, and we‘d love to share it!” says band leader Renārs Kaupers. Q Tickets 1,400 - 3,500Rbl.
Lady in Jazz
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su. This international festival has returned again to St. Petersburg for a night of jazz featuring artists from Russia, CIS and Europe. Participants include Andreya Triana (UK), Club Des Belugas & Brenda Boykin (Germany), Gorchitza (Ukraine), Gayana (Russia) and The Melodies (Russia). This year‘s festival will include performances by local St. Petersburg groups Sofia Bridge, Smooth Kats, Anastasiya Abrutskaya, Just For You, Dub Hope Joint, Lounge Time, Mariqua live project. The festival is packed into a single night of jazz and is a must for lovers of contemporary jazz. Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl. Starting from 24:00 the entrance is free. The festival starts at 19:00.
Buying Concert Tickets
Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and also sell tickets online. There are also online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets. Kassir.ru The only website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).
D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. musik.schillerserver.de. Inspired by electronic greats such as Tangerine Dream, Kraftwerk and Klaus Schulze, Schiller creates a world of transparent sound tinged with nostalgia and connecting the past with the present, which has been praised as ‘global pop‘ and as ‘electronic music touching the depths of the soul‘. Based in Berlin, Schiller has been creating his own electronica since 1998 with platinum album success and sold out tours. His concert tours are accompanied with light shows. It is two years since Schiller last visited Russia. Q Tickets 1,430 - 4,400Rbl.
Through 13.10 Sunday
Bella Matveeva. L’incoronazione di Poppea. Opera-work
Rizzordi Loft, Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 911 839 07 77, www. rizzordi.org. L’incoronazione di Poppea is an exhibi tion where conceptual and artistic content is formed by blurring the boundaries between the visual arts, music and theatre. The purpose of the project is to explore the subtle images and meanings that emerge when various art forms merge together at the level of aesthetic sensibility. The name of the exhibition comes from Claudio Monteverdi’s famous opera, which has been performed all over the world in both the classical and avant-garde scenes. Bella Matveeva presents a highly personal understanding of the Baroque musical phenomenon through the prism of ancient frescoes and modern perceptions of what the human body is. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Through 04.11 Monday
Karl Briullov from private collections in Moscow and St. Petersburg
E-2, The Mikhailovsky Palace, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, M Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. The exhibition presents 10 works by famous Russian artist Karl Briullov (1799-1852) that belong to private Russian collections. These works are examples of oil painting and give visitors an excellent opportunity to trace the artist‘s creative journey through several significant examples from different periods of Briullov‘s art. At the same time each of the artist‘s paintings presented at this exhibition are worth examining as they reveal unexpected hues and details. The paintings are therefore important for a thorough understanding of the artist‘s work. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
October - November 2013
Culture & Events FC Zenit
The annual football festival that is the UEFA Champions League group stage will be coming to St. Petersburg for the third year in a row this fall. Zenit had no trouble obliterating its opponents Nordsjælland of Denmark (6:0 on aggregate) and Paços de Ferreira of Portugal (8:3 on aggregate) to qualify for this year’s Champions League group stage. Fans of the Blue-White-Sky Blues will once again be debating if the Champions League draw was a favorable one or a nightmare for Zenit. Two southern European powerhouses, FC Porto and Atlético de Madrid, will be battling Zenit for the first two spots in Group G, as will outsiders FC Austria Wien. Zenit already has experience slaying the Porto dragon, winning 3:1 in September, 2011, in one of Zenit’s finest Champions League triumphs. Roman Shirokov was the hero on that magic night, scoring two goals to give Zenit the lead after going behind 0:1 early in the game. Danny scored Zenit’s third goal for extra satisfaction. This time around Zenit will be hosting the Portuguese leaders at Petrovsky Stadium on Wednesday, November 6. Zenit will have its first-ever meeting with Spanish titans Atlético de Madrid on Tuesday, November 26. The visitors will likely be using the excuse of having to play in the cold, but the Zenit faithful will be out in force, not matter what the conditions. Matches in challenging conditions are often the most authentic experience of all at Petrovsky Stadium. Zenit Champions League matches are always intense, and playing a team as famous as Atlético de Madrid will raise the bar one step higher. Besides Champions League fixtures, Zenit will also be playing a home match against one of the club’s biggest rivals in the Russian Premier League: CSKA Moscow. The match will be played on Friday evening, October 18. CSKA won the Russia league by 2 points over Zenit last year, breaking Zenit’s string of back-to-back Russian titles. Luciano Spalletti’s side will be looking for revenge, particularly since CSKA is once again narrowly leading the pack this year in Russia. Lastly, Zenit will host FC Amkar of Perm in another Russian Premier League clash on Saturday, November 2. E-tickets to all Zenit home matches can be purchased in English with ease at the website tickets.fc-zenit.ru. More information about ticket prices and FC Zenit in general is available at en.fc-zenit.ru.
Culture & Events Through 04.11 Monday
08.10 Tuesday – 09.10 Wednesday
D-2, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. The exhibition is held for the 120th jubilee of the birth of Arkady Plastov (1893-1972). Plastov was one of the most significant representatives of the peasant theme in Soviet Art in the 1930s-1960s and embodied in his paintings extremely accurate images of the inhabitants of his native village Prislonikha and scenes from everyday life. In Arkady Plastov‘s art the beauty and ethical content of the typical genre motifs is revealed. The exhibition also presents unique graphic works by Arkady Plastov, book illustrations and photographs from the artist‘s archive. Also on show are the works by the other representatives of Plastov dynasty who turned to different genres and types of art. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
International scientific conference “Rediscovering Cultural Heritage: Challenges for Libraries, Archives and Museums” The National Library of Russia, Peter’s Historical Society and the Netherlands Institute in St. Petersburg (NIP) invite experts to discuss the challenges of creating and opening digital archives of collections and items of cultural heritage. How this was experienced by the Dutch will be illustrated with examples from the National Library of the Netherlands, the University of Amsterdam, the Municipal Museum Amsterdam and the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands. To register go to www.cultural-heritage-conf.ru.
Arkady Plastov. Fate and Soil
Dutch Days Festival Who was the first Russian student in the Netherlands? Tsar Peter the Great! The founder of St. Petersburg travelled to the Low Countries to learn the art of ship building. There he also met all sorts of novelties and used them to modernise Russia. The special relationship between Russia and the Netherlands is being celebrated throughout 2013 with hundreds of activities in both countries. October celebrates Dutch Days in Higher Education Festival in St. Petersburg and Moscow. The Dutch Days include lectures that will help expand your understanding of Russia’s history, culture and development and should interest anyone wanting to learn more about Russia. The Dutch Days festival is organised by Nuffic Neso, the Netherlands Support Office in Russia, and the Netherlands Institute in St. Petersburg (NIP). For more information visit the website at www.nesorussia.org.
04.10 Friday, 19:00
Presentation of the first part of the unique publication “History of Dutch Literature”
Through 04.11 Monday
Filipp Malyavin. 1869-1940
D-2, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. This is the first such large-scale solo exhibition of one of the great Russian artists of the early 20th century. An excellent painter and graphic artist, Filipp Malyavin (1869-1940) emigrated from Russia after the revolution, and for a long time was known only to a narrow circle of specialists and art connoisseurs. He was recognised in Russia in the second half of the 20th century. The exhibition aims to reveal the main stages of his creativity, including his period abroad. The exhibition displays about 70 paintings and 100 graphic works (mostly pencil drawings and works executed in mixed media) from the Russian Museum, the Tretyakov Gallery and other museums in Russia, Belarus and Latvia, as well as from private collections from Moscow and St. Petersburg. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
E-3, Mayakovsky Central City Public Library, nab. reky Fontanky 46, MNevsky pr. The programme includes a literary and musical performance devoted to poetry from literary movement The Eighties (de Tachtigers), by a Dutch poetry group. The artists give a theatre performance about life and work.
05.10 Saturday, 13:30
Peter the Great’s journey from Utrecht to Amsterdam on the river the Vecht
Gatchina Palace, Music hall, www.earlymusic.ru. Lecture and concert within the framework of the International Festival for Earlymusic.
06.10 Sunday, 12:00 - 17:00
International Higher Education Fair ICIEP
E-3, Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya. Even when you are not planning to study abroad immediately it is fun to visit this international arena seeing universities fighting for students. More than 2,500 Russian students are expected to visit the fair which will be officially opened by the Dutch Consul-General Jennes de Mol.
10.10.2013 Thursday, 19:00 - 21:00
NANR Alumni Career Workshop
Russian business people and scientists who studied in Holland are united in the alumni network NANR. With Dutch companies they organise career workshops and social events. Walter van Dijk, director at recruitment company G-Nius, will talk about the Do’s and Don’ts when applying for a position in a foreign company. More information at www.nanr.ru.
Exhibitions At The Hermitage Through 12.01.2014
Willem II and Anna Pavlovna. Royal Splendour at the Dutch Court
The exhibition is at the heart of the Year of the Neth erlands and Russia. It deals with one of the most significant episodes in the relations of the two countries which had an impac t on entire nineteenth-centur y European histor y - the marriage of Grand Duchess Anna Pavlovna and Prince Willem of Orange, heir to the Crown (Netherlands and Luxembourg). The exhibition has been produced by the State Hermitage in cooperation with the Dordrecht Stedelijk Museum, Dutch Royal Collection and Villa Vauban Museum (Luxembourg). Since the collection of Willem II was sold out after his death and dispersed all over the world, the exhibition has also been contributed by other large art museums and private collections.
16.10 – 12.01.14
Architecture the Dutch Way 1945–2000
07.10 Monday, 19:00 - 20:30
The Dutch from Moscow to St. Petersburg
D-3 Mayakovsky Library (former Dutch Church), Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr. Lecture by professor Hans van Koningsbrugge, Centre for Russian Studies, University of Groningen (RUG). Where did Tsar Peter the Great find his Dutch inspiration? Who were those Dutch people who travelled to Moscow in the 15th and 16th centuries and what were they doing in old Muscovy? What were their relationships with the Russians like? The lecture will be in English.
Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Rediscovering Cultural Heritage
This exhibition includes 200 models, sketches and photographs and the work of contemporary Dutch architects. Architecture the Dutch Way 1945–2000 is the first retrospective at the State Hermitage Museum devoted to the history of Dutch architecture since World War II. The exhibition shows how, in the Netherlands, the ideal of communality shifted to reflect an individualising society. The exhibition explores parallels to and differences from Russia. In the period between 1920 and 1935, many Dutch architects and artists were inspired by the development of Russian society after the revolution. Some of them travelled to Russia, to “help implement socialist ideals”. The exhibition shows the changing ideas around communality and collectivism with a renewed interest in constructivism in the 1980s leading to a new phase of grandiose architecture.
October - November 2013
FeatureS Helping is easy
The Return of Charity Russians are well known for their openness, their love of life and their willingness give advice, and while helping each other out was part of a way of life during the tough periods of Russia’s history, people tend to associate Russian billionaires more with football clubs and luxury yachts than charity. However, charitable organisations have always played a part in Russia’s society and while these organisations were taken over by the state in 1918, over the past ten years charities and non-governmental organisations have been making a comeback. For a long time good works were often associated with various churches and monasteries, however, increasingly in the 18th and 19th centuries both government organisations and private individuals came too play a greater role in looking after the needy. H o s p i c e s , o r p h a n a ge s , schools, boarding houses were established by leading figures in the aristocracy a n d m e r c h a n t fa m i l i e s . Th e m o s t we l l k n o w n o f t h e s e o r ga n i s a t i o n s included Empress Mariya’s Establishments Department and Imperial Philanthropic Society, Empress Alexandra F e d o r o v n a’s H o u s e s o f Diligence and Labour Houses and Grand Princess Elizaveta Mavrikievna’s Society for the Relief of Poor and Ill Children. Leading merchant families were also involved in philanthropic activity with the Aprakin, Demidov and Eliseev families establishing large charitable organisations. However, one of the most notable endowments with a link to Russia and St. Petersburg was the Nobel Prize established by Alfred Nobel. Although a Swedish citizen, Nobel spent over twenty years living in Russia and it is perhaps in part due to the spirit of giving that existed in 19th century Russia that induced him to establish such a generous gift to the citizens of the world. Si n c e th e ea rl y 2 0 0 0s, Russian citizens have again taken the initiative to help each other and this issue of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket features three outstanding charities that are making a real difference for those in need.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
When choosing a gift card, we rarely pause to think about how it was made or who we should thank for making it. We often think about the person we intend to give it to, considering what we will write in it or what we will say when we see them, and sometimes we don’t even think about it at all, and without even looking throw the obligatory card in the bin with the rest of the other purchases. And then there are those gift cards and souvenirs that preserve some of the tender feelings of their small but masterful creators. And completely different emotions fill you when you understand that you hold in your hands a gift card, whose picture was drawn by a severely sick child in a hospital ward. These emotions are overwhelming. They come from the children and the charitable project Helping is Easy! Helping is Easy is an off-shoot of the larger AdVita Foundation which has for the past 11 years helped children diagnosed with cancer undergo treatment in St. Petersburg hospitals and assist oncological departments. And then, at a particular moment when the charity began to actively support art therapy, the idea emerged to make souvenirs from the children’s drawings. The souvenirs are given t everyone who plays an active role in the charity’s work helping children and they are also given out to everyone who wants them as part of any possible charitable campaign. Over time a new, independent area of activity has appeared within the foundation – charitable souvenirs. “Since there is a commercial aspect to this form of assistance, and the AdVita Foundation cannot be involved in commercial activities, the idea of creating the Helping is Easy project was suggested,” says AdVita Foundation Press Secretary Lada Davydova. “The souvenirs have been produced for more than three years already and at the end of 2011 we opened a cultural children’s centre which also bears the name Helping is Easy!” The centre has become a location where you can watch films, listen to lectures by famous writers, participate in master-classes, pick-up cute souvenirs and if you want to, to make a donation. Anyone can visit the centre. Classes are held there, not only for kids and AdVita Foundation volunteers but for everyone w h o wa n t s t o c o m b i n e relaxation, education and charity. Anyone can attend entertaining events which are held at the Helping is Easy Centre, and experience the cultural life of St. Petersburg, meet interesting people and simply discover something new. And all of this is possible thanks to the creativity and efforts of Elena Gracheva – one of the founders and inspiration behind the foundation. “Lena, many years ago pioneered the idea of the AdVita Foundation,” recalls Lada Davydova. “And from the beginning it existed as a sort of volunteer movement, when people didn’t really know all that much and swapped information, gave each other advice how to get hold of certain medicines, swapped medication and simply helped each other. And with time this small group of people with similar ideas grew into a serious and large venture like a charitable organisation. Today, many of the initiatives which take place in the AdVita Foundation and the Helping is Easy project are Elena’s ideas and have become possible thanks to her as she is very clever and very creative. The idea of making souvenirs based on children’s pictures was also Elena’s”.
Today, the work of this unique project is being coordinated by five people, wh receive a huge amount of support from numerous volunteers that participate in organising and running various charitable c a m pa i g n s, eve n t s a n d m a s t e r- c l a s s e s . S o c i a l networks and the project’s site (www.legko-legko.ru) and the so-called ‘women’s radio’ plays a large role in recruiting volunteers to the project. The association is involved with several hospitals and holds master-classes at them, where professional artists and volunteers paint together with the children. And although the paintings are always wonderful, it is sometimes necessary to hold a secret artistic council to choose the children’s work which will be used as the basis of the future souvenir. Children can by quite happy when their picture is chosen for charitable campaigns. “Of course, we return all pictures to the children, although sometimes we request originals as presents to benefactors of the foundation or the project,” says Press Secretary Lada Davydova. “And as all the images are scanned we have a large electronic data base. Furthermore, we conclude contracts with the little artists. At Helping is Easy we have created a group of independent painters, and even follow them so that every gift card with their painting is included in their own collection. This is very touching and it is always a pleasure when you see them making small albums for their cards with their own hands. They feel that they really are artists.” Helping is Easy is not just drawing lessons for very sick children. It is a unique experience that has joined effective art-therapy and raises funds for much needed treatment. In the last three years, thanks to the curators and the volunteers, more than 300,000 gift cards have been produced. The souvenirs (gift cards, magnets, calendars, stationary paper, badges, cups, bags, funny t-shirts and many other items) with pictures from the wards of the AdVita Founation can be bought at the souvenir shop at the Helping is Easy Children’s Centre (Bolshaya Pushkarskaya 10), а and also at Dom Knigi bookshop on Nevsky pr. and branches of Bukvoed. All profits of sales go to treating. Besides caring for kids, the project has also supported their parents who can find here not only psychological support but the opportunity to do classes with their children. It is not only children from St. Petersburg that do art therapy but also children coming to St. Petersburg for treatment from Khabarovsk, Kaliningrad and other cities. “Everything depends on hw the child is feeling: it does happen that at extremely severe stages of treatment a child will refuse to do his or her favourite hobby because he/she is feeling unwell and can even become quite depressed about it,” says Lada Davydova. “But when the child feels a little better, art therapy enables the kid to undergo the course of treatment more easily, and to get through stressful moments, and the child can then paint again because he or she is happy that the pain has already passed.” We can only guess what children feel in those moments when they hold a pencil or paintbrush in their hands, but we believe that it is an exciting moment when having created a picture, the young artist forgets about sickness and here is a gift card, a ray of hope, and they can tell everybody that Helping is Easy.
11:30 - 16:00 IWC’s Winter Charity Bazaar
D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, www.iwcstpete.com.The International Women’s Club annual winter bazaar, is one of the biggest charity fundraisers of the year and a key event in the expat calendar. Year on year they have proven that they really do have one of the best raffles in the city, although it’s not just about the prizes, there’s plenty of other entertainment too. Food stalls, crafts, Christmas gifts, second-hand jumble and live music are also part of the event and best of all is that inner-glow gained from knowing all the money you spend goes to help very worthy local charities. Q Admission free.
Lifeline The Lifeline (Liniya zhizni) project was started in 2004 as a response to the high rate of infant mortality in Russia and the difficulty in getting necessary medication to children in a timely manner. The Moscow based charity works with a large range of sponsors to provide medical care for children requiring hospital treatment throughout Russia. The organisation has been successful in achieving a high level of sponsorship from leading Russian companies and also participation from a large number of volunteers that assist the foundation in raising funds and awareness of the charity’s work and to focus on the positive elements of charity. Lifeline is about helping people and having a sense of humour. Anyone can help. By assisting children the charity is able to play a major role in someone’s life and inspire people to do more with the life they have. So far Lifeline has saved 5,900 children and raised a total of 1.2 billion roubles. Money raised is used only for treating children. www.life-line.ru
October - November 2013
FeatureS Raketa factory Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. An
Raketa Sonata Watch T h e ‘ S o n a t a ’ wa t c h , which is unisex, is one of Raketa’s many interesting watches. The watch factory was inspired by the works of the many great Russian composers, such as Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff, who both gave the world great masterpieces, to create and launch this new collection of watches, which are based on the historical design of 1984. There are three options for the strap; either a gold coloured steel bracelet, a brown genuine leather strap, or a black genuine leather strap. The crystal is mineral, and the face features a unique, intricate gold pattern, as well as a small red star, which is reminiscent of the large red stars that you can see on top of the towers of the Kremlin, which were created at the Petrodvorets Factory before it began to produce watches. Each Raketa watch has a unique design on the back, and the ‘Sonata’ watch is no different, featuring a floral design. The ‘Sonata’ watch is the ideal watch to wear for an outing to the Mariinsky Theatre.
We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period October - November 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.
ex-Rolex production director joined the team in 2012, planning to pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and “COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new “Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by the famous actress Natalia Vodianova. Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored to the needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing around the world. The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones. Other watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user to look up any date and discover which day of the week it will fall on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead of a 12. Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’. As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa produce few women’s watches. Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’ watch, which features red stars on its face reminiscent of those on the Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by Russian folk tales. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. The company offers free tours (available in English) of the factory, which is located near Peterhof Palace. Visitors can look at the machines, learn more of the factory’s history from the workers, and see the watch models; they would make great souvenirs of your time in Russia. www.raketa.com
Where to Buy
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab.
reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that this is not just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast 1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh
Babochka multibrand boutiques:
Nevksy pr. 36, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 324 32 29. Q Open 11:00 – 22:00. www.babochka.ru.
Status watch shops:
Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 717 59 39. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00 www.status-watch.ru Salon Bure, Nevsky pr. 23, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 75 34. Q Open 11:00 – 21:00, Sat 11:00 – 20:00, Sun 11:00 – 19:00. www.salonbure.com
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Angleterre Hotel D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled from their deluxe suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room price start at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
T Child friendly
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
C Swimming pool
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
M Nearest metro station
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi connection
October - November 2013
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg
D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow. The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive as its interior. Think ‘cellists, plush carpets and gold-leafed ceiling work. The Four Seasons is the epitome of classy. The hotel not only offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, but also impeccable service and top quality amenities. With an impressive ballroom and a stunning bar, along with two restaurants and a spa to open later, what more could we possibly want? Since it‘s just been renovated, everything in the hotel is completely up-to-date and the whole project has been meticulously thought through for the comfort and convenience of the guests. And all that with a more than generous serving of style. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar (the only one in the city) or authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining, L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. The Grand Hotel Europe plays an important role in the city, with many famous guests, including Bill Clinton, Elton John, and Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Three royals visited in 2011 – Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe II and Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh
Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant, Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar 1853; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast 1,575Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-
mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the welltrained staff take a professional but personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There‘s the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner lobby bar with it‘s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast 1,300Rbl. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St. Petersburg, the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there‘s a spa and wonderful views over the city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl. PTHAUFLGB� KDCW hhhhh W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cockst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
tails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
4 Stars Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-
naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www. azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is the tallest building in this part of the city and shortly (in November) the new Sky Bar will be re-opened with the most amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with a modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves, among others, great pizza‘s as well. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West
Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky
C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh
October - November 2013
hotels Ask the Concierge Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Olga Kachalova and I am the Chief Concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace. I used to work in some other five-star hotels in St. Petersburg before joining the Four Seasons. My experience comes from all the years working in the hotel business as well as from being a Les Clefs d’Or member. This membership gives huge opportunities – meeting colleagues from all over the world and sharing experience. The other benefit is cooperation with colleagues and partners within the country as well as internationally: whenever I need any help I can always rely on the people who follow the philosophy of being ‘in service through friendship’ – the motto of the association. October/November is seen as not the best period to visit St. Petersburg, can you convince us otherwise? I am absolutely certain that October and November is a great time to visit the Northern Capital. I can hardly name any other cities in the world that could boast of being such a romantic place during the autumn! If the weather is sunny the colors are so bright and the sky is so clear! The best thing to do during these days is to go outside to Peterhof, Catherine’s Palace, Pavlovsk, Gatchina. They are such peaceful and harmonious places to visit as nature falls asleep. If it is rainy the best thing is to sit next to a fire place and drink hot Russian tea with the famous specials – blinis with honey, sushki, caviar. And for those who got really cold – vodka and zakuskis will be a great way for warming up. The Four Seasons recently opened, what would you recommend visitors to come and see and/or taste? I am very proud that the first Four Seasons in Russia was opened in St. Petersburg! The city is such a great destination to start exploring Russia – so much of history, architecture and, as we call it, the St. Petersburg soul always charms visitors, everything creates an unforgettable experience. So it was a great idea to open the first hotel of this world famous chain here. The hotel is a real palace and has a lot to impress the guests. But if you ask me I would definitely name Percorso Restaurant as a place to go. The restaurant was just opened and offers a unique dining experience – the menu was created by Michelin Star Chef Andrea Accordi. The view to St. Isaac’s Square is amazing, especially during the evening when everything is lit up. And, of course, the fire place that makes you feel so warm while the weather outside is getting colder. What is your favourite place in the city? The city is wonderful and as I have already mentioned it is amazing in autumn! I am sure that the best way to feel the special spirit of the season is to walk along the city’s main streets, squares and embankments. I am very lucky to live not far from work so I have this opportunity every morning. I pass Arts Square, Cathedral on the Spilt Blood (Spas-nakrovi), Griboedov Canal, Kazan Cathedral on my way and if there are no clouds – the first sun rays make the picture wonderful. And each day it is a new one as the weather is changing, the day is getting shorter so new colours can be caught from day to day. I can’t stop admiring these sights!
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky
pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with art deco accents and the reception desk which is conveniently headed by flat screen televisions listing information for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the standard rooms have everything the modern businessperson or tourist could need or want, including a fully stocked mini bar and above standard bath facilities, while the beds and linens make getting out of bed a real challenge. Amenities include a brightly hued 24 hour fitness centre, underground parking and a Mediterranean restaurant with a view of bustling Ligovsky. Q195 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast 900Rbl. PHAUFLGKW hhhh
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-
ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast 850Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,
Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. Q269 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh
Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from another planet compared to some of the other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the Russian restaurant. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl, Breakfast 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete the small but functional rooms. The size difference between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you‘ll find the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, it‘s good for those interested in sightseeing. Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh Trezzini Palace Hotel C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 21,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 66 22, www. trezzinipalace.com. The newly opened Trezzini Palace Hotel, on the banks of the river Neva, is best described as a luxury, boutique hotel in a historic setting. It was built in 1723 by and for the famous Italian architect himself, who gave St. Petersburg some of its most famous buildings, such as the Peter & Paul Fortress and the red University building, not far from the hotel on Vasilevsky Island. The rooms are decorated with wooden flooring, marble columns and come with all the modern amenities you would expect. The entrance, complete with a glass lift, is quite spectacular. Some of the rooms have beautiful views over the river and St. Isaac Cathedral. Q21 rooms (Prices start at 20,000Rbl). PTAULKW
3 Stars Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya E-3, Ul. Stremyannaya
18, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 04 50, www. stremyannaya-hotel.com. Just behind Nevsky Prospect in historic Stremyannaya street, Cronwell Inn Hotel prides itself in the traditional hotel experience. There are ‚5 o‘clock tea‘ club functions and a Stremyannaya mini museum complete with costumes. Superior rooms are spacious, clean, soft and adequately furnished including personal safes and flat screen televisions. Rooms differ only in size and luckily the amusing art over the headboards appears as standard throughout. Q49 rooms (Room prices start at 2,800Rbl). Extra bed from 1,000. PTHALGKW hhh
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. With a central location, brand spanking new decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl). PHAULGKW hhh Red Stars Hotel C-3, Nab. reky Pryazhki 30, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel.ru. A fantastically contemporary addition to the market, Red Stars has done up their hotel with signature red dominating the decor from doors to bathroom tiles, while the corridors and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti courtesy of local artists. At very reasonable rates, within 15 minutes walk to the Mariinsky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky pr., this makes an ideal option for the independent traveler, while their modest business centre will accommodate gatherings of up to 15 people. Q54 rooms (Room prices start at 3,400Rbl). PTHAULGKW hhhh
U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hermitage Hotel Opening The Official State Hermitage Hotel is a refreshing change to the accommodation in St. Petersburg. The city is known for its special character, the culture of its citizens and visitors, and the Hermitage Hotel adds a little bit more culture to your visit to Russia’s cultural capital. Having a unique relationship with the famous State Hermitage Museum, the hotel, located in the centre of St. Petersburg possesses classical interiors and artwork similar to what you will find at the State Hermitage Museum. The furniture follows the traditional style of Italian masters and creates a sense of elegance. The entrance is grand with bubbling fountains and bright light streaming from the cupola above, and an impressive chandelier. Guests can dine at the Catherine II Restaurant on the first floor, while expectations are high for the opening of the Michelangelo restaurant and cigar lounge. Permission for the hotel was specially granted by the State Hermitage Museum and has been decorated following guidelines given by the museum. Guests to the hotel also have the opportunity to take special tours of the museum. A free bus takes guests to and from the State Hermitage Museum, which is located about 10 minutes drive away. The hotel is a convenient distance to public transport and most of the main attractions in the city. www.theofficialstatehermitagehotel.com
Les Clefs’ d’Or Back in the bad old days, a Russian concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard, checking the comings and goings of guests and offering little in terms of local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very happy to be partners with Les Clefs’ d’Or.
October - November 2013
Restaurants Russian Cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything.
Restaurants St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you hand them for the bill. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian
Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).
Chekhov D-1, Petropavlovskaya ul. 4, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 45 11, www.restaurant-chekhov.ru. This charming dining venue allows you to step into a Russian country house at the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were entering into the world of author Anton Chekhov. Recreating the traditional delicacies from recipes of that time, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal as a piano player serenades the room. The waitresses rustle past in their long gowns serving up a range of carefully presented, wholly satisfying dishes. Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAES
Soups and salads
Cococo E-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
Bliny and snacks
Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka. Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.
(+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. This restaurant is just a short walk from the Nevsky Prospect and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and Kombucha. The meals are well presented, and very wholesome, including dishes such as chicken curry with millet porridge. The restaurant is underground, with low ceilings and a very cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn‘t available, and you can request an English version of the menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW
(+7) 812 315 21 25. Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region‘s more unusual dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya,
Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking B Outside seating
W Wi-Fi connection
V Home delivery
M Nearest metro station
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Na Zdorovie! C-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 13/4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 40 39, old.concord-catering.ru/ restaurants/na-zdorovie/. This cheerful, cosy restaurant called Na Zdorovie (Russian for ‚to your health!‘) serves excellent Russian and Soviet cuisine. It is a good restaurant for tourists looking for a taste of typical Russian food. Take our word for it, everything we tried here tasted really fresh - as if a Russian babushka (grandmother) prepared it herself. Don‘t forget to try the typical Russian drinks kvas and mors. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAESW NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW Olivie D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72, oliviecafe.ru. Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes with the chef‘s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert - it‘s just a small part of what you the chef offers. Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square, directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every company. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 C-3, Konnogvardeisky
bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated finde-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we‘ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW
Tsar D-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. Q Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. Kitchen open till 23:30. €€€. PTALESW Yolki-Palki E-3, Nevsky pr. 88, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 15 94, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit under the plastic forest canopy, while filling up on an all-youcan-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something from the menu. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTAVSW
Koleso D-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu - which is frequently updated - has a selection of fresh homemade Russian dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something familiar and satisfying. They are very accommodating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service is very friendly and it‘s not usually very busy or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW
October - November 2013
Beer, beer, beer…
Asian and Indian
Cafes and Coffee houses
Russians have a reputation for loving their vodka but when it comes to beer they have a pretty good palate and know what tastes good. Russian brews like Baltika, Nevskoe and Tinkoff (St. Petersburg brews), and Zhiguli offer a range of quality beers, while imported brews from the Czech Republic and Germany offer varieties to tease the taste buds and quench the thirst. Try some of these bars for a beer worth brewing over.
Apteka D-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 931
305 22 77. A restaurant with an innovative approach to marketing - it‘s at a secret location which its owners keep as a closely guarded secret. This secret we will not reveal, all we can say is that the entrance is in the toilet of another well-known restaurant on Nevsky Prospect. Call reserve your table and all will be revealed. The menu comprises original dishes from the Indian chef Jimmy Singh and unusual cocktails prepared by the barmen/ chemists in his laboratory. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW
Cafe-bar Chayki D-2, Nab. reky Moiky 19, MAdmiralteis-
Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they‘ve managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious pub grub and you may find you‘ve spent everything in your wallet and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW Harat‘s Irish Pub F-3, Nevsky pr. 109, MPl. Voss-
taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 12 09, www.harats.ru. Coming all the way from Irkutsk, where the first Harat‘s opened up, this St. Petersburg pub has everything on offer you‘d expect. Whisky and beer is what you should drink here and there is plenty to choose from. At Harat‘s you can have a real Irish breakfast, grilled sausages or a club sandwich while watching your favorite sports on tv. In the weekends there is live music in this cozy bar on Nevsky Prospekt just past the Moscow railway station. This pub is successfully exported to more then 15 Russian cities, so they‘re always close to where you are. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PAEW
Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist. ru. Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
King Pong D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. The menu is mainly Thai-style dishes with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‚European‘ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGSW Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW
Egg in Egg
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 949 77 37, chaykibar.ru. Chayki, or The Seagulls, is a refreshing break from the usual loud, smoky and overcrowded Saint Petersburg bars. There is no smoking inside and no blaring music, so you can actually breathe and, more importantly, hear the people you are with when they speak. The service is friendly and the interior simple, with brick walls painted white and wooden tables. The prices are low, the drinks good and the small food menu to cure your drinking munchies quite tasty. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €. PAGSW
Mitte cafe E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 27, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 416 14 16. The windows, the sills of which also serve as seats, are flung wide open and the smell of coffee wafts out into the street. Cafe Mitte does sophisticated hipster beautifully. The décor simple yet effective; it‘s the people who make this place. They have a small but excellent collection of cakes, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Come back in the evening for a glass of wine and antipasti and a relaxed but buzzing atmosphere. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 until last guest. €. PTGSW Sviter s Olenyami D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 22, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 58 00, www.switersolenyami.wix. com/sviter. “Sweater with Deer” is a self-proclaimed “fake hipster buffet”. While it definitely caters to the hipster crowd with its corduroy covered furniture and wayfarer sporting wooden deer head on the wall, there is something for everyone. An extensive drink list featuring clever drink names such as “Rudolph’s Nose”, and a menu section with 30Rbl tasty treats to accompany liter pitchers of alcohol makes it more of a drinking place than a regular restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €. PTAEW
The signature dish at the Caviar Bar & Restaurant is the intriguingly titled Egg in Egg, which blends hen’s eggs with sturgeon’s roe – or, more precisely, consists of truffle-flavoured scrambled egg, topped with Ossetra caviar and assembled elegantly in a shot glass of sea salt. Caviar is a rare delicacy. It refers to the roe extracted from certain types of sturgeon, fish who can live for over 100 years and who were around 200 million years ago with the dinosaurs. There are references to caviar throughout history. The Persians believed it gave them energy. Batu Khan (grandson of Genghis) is said to have enjoyed it in the 13th century, and Shakespeare alluded to it in ‘Hamlet’ in the 1600s. Russian caviar enjoyed a European resurgence in the 1920s, when Sézar Ritz put it on the menu at his famous Paris hotel, perhaps in deference to the Russians fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution.
Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip, modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out, abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies, and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows, they are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the food as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper sauce, which is something of a small hit here, and also their famous wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don‘t be afraid to ask the waiters to mix you something special, as they know what they are doing. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PALESW
October - November 2013
Restaurants Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVSW
European Fartuk E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and attentive young waitstaff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks provide excellent refreshment. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €. PTAGSW Na Rechke B-1, Ul. Olgina 8, MChernaya rechka, tel.
Caucasian and Central Asian Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr.
30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW
Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSado-
vaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW
Sukhoe - Dry Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet Sladkoe - Sweet St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
(+7) 812 230 03 47, www.narechke.com. With lovely views and outdoor dining on the Krestovka River bank Na Rechke creates a relaxed atmosphere. Soft background music, and friendly staff make for a lovely dining experience. The interior design with sloping, billowing ceilings, similar to awnings, gives the entire establishment the feel of al fresco dining and the white décor enhances the sensation of expansiveness. Tables are large and placed a good distance from each other. The menu is largely European with a tendency towards the Mediterranean and Italian. Being close to the central city, Na Rechke is simultaneously convenient and remote. This makes it an ideal location for a business meeting or a romantic dinner at the end of the day. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
Schastye (Happiness) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www. schastye.com. That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed for food lovers. Happiness is adorned with dozens of garden style cupids amid fresh white boards and a trendy white interior. Comfortable benches are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. The menu is also filled with balanced breakfasts which can be ordered at any time. Also at Nevsky pr. 55 and Mal. Morskaya ul. 24.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
SoUsy E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 456 44 74. The owners of the legendary St. Petersburg bars Terminal and The Hat have opened a new location in Rubinshtein Street. It has an unusual format for a restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six dishes, salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be served a set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on the menu, and you can order any one you like separately) to complement each dish. In the background, they exclusively play classical music, and there is a string quartet every evening. It is a decent price, and the well-compiled wine list will pleasantly surprise you. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. €€. PAESW
Vinostudia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Vinostudia derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to sip great wine, this is a good choice. As you might expect from a gastrobar, there is a nice selection of zakuski; pinchetos, olive plate, cheeses - all of which complement your drink. Enjoy the friendly atmosphere and service. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00 €€. PASW
Fine dining Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe,
Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe‘s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d‘oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city‘s only vodka sommelier. Pay a visit, you won‘t regret it! Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW
L‘Europe D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul.
1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. We especially recommend visiting on Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples. Sunday brunch is also magnifique! Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 - 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEW
True Russian and Caucasian cooking with a modern twist Open daily 12 noon - 11 p.m.
Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW
8, Admiralteysky Pr., +7 (812) 945 84 72 October - November 2013
Restaurants Russian Empire D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old. concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. The three luxurious dining rooms each have their own individual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst surrounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be ordered just by the spoonful! Q Open 17:00 until last guest. €€€€. PTALEW
The Art of Eating Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta.com. Located in the basement of the Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup, pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you, especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with fennel, smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has specialised in Mediterranean cuisine and has an offering of scallops and prawns. For meat lovers there is an meat menu. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Tue 12:00 17:00. €. PTASW
Taking friends or colleagues out to lunch is more than just having a meal and paying for it. The meal reflects your status as does the location. People remember the experience as a whole and if something is lacking it can ruin the experience and the impression you want to give. A great way to make a good impression and have some world class dining is to drop by on a hotel restaurant – you don’t need to be a guest to enjoy the refined interiors and stunning cooking. Here are some great hotel restaurants offering business lunches by top chefs, using fresh ingredients with a great setting.
Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW
Stroganoff Steakhouse C-3, Konnog vardeisky
Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921
tel. (+7) 812 314 34 00. Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this newly opened restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. It‘s not exactly easy to find, but once you do - you can‘t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering the space feels like you‘ve travelled in time machine back to the 1960‘s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beet-root or even any pickles that they produce themselves. All these things are nicely introduced with the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled eggs or fried green beans which are perfect for sharing with a group of friends. Their bar also offers hip cocktails and irresistible desserts, which are worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Côté Jardin E-3, Novotel, ul. Mayakovskogo 3a,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www. accorhotels.com/5679. Q12:00 - 16:00, 750Rbl. Buffet. Price includes water/coffee/tea.
Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.com. Q 12:00 - 15:00, 2 courses 550Rbl, 3 courses 600Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea. Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr.
15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Q 12:00 - 15:00, 3 courses 750Rbl, 4 courses 850Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea.
Borsalino D-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul.
24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com. Q12:00 - 15:00, 690Rbl. Buffet. Water/coffee/tea not included.
miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky
pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. Q 12:00 - 18:00, 3 courses 850Rbl. Price includes water/coffee/tea.
Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra
946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie. ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimalist interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef, as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open 11:00 until last guest. €. PTASW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www.stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAULESW
Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl.,
Quiznos Sub D-3, Moskovsky pr. 2, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 643 55 51, www.quiznos.com. A newcomer to the Russian market, this American chain, specialising in toasted sandwiches, is a welcome addition to the city. They have big plans to open up new locations around the city, but the most relevant place for now is the very central one located on Sennaya Square. They offer a wide range of salads, soups and, of course, sandwiches are available – reminding you at first perhaps of the other sandwich chain Subway, but here you do not choose what ingredients to add. The chef has already decided what tastes best, but leaves you the possibility of add something if you’d like. We didn’t though when we tried and are sure to return to try some of the other sumptuous sandwiches on offer! And we didn’t even get to mention their cookies. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTASVGW Zimny D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 922 08 03. Built to an architectural design Zimny is a metallic loft with high ceilings (up to six metres). The designers’ use of space is simple but impressive: open, old brick walls with a bold combination of massive leather furniture and amusing and very interesting French lighting and genuine artwork (paintings, photographs, installations, sculpture and video works). It has a long, 15-metre bar table and large racks of wine bottles and glasses. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PALESW
October - November 2013
Restaurants Italian ITALY Bottega D-3, Bol. Moskaya ul. 14, MAdmiral-
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group. ru. This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very cozy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is common in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian homemade pasta, delicious pizza and some kinds of risotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. But in Italy Bottega there is also a new section - antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as a takeaway. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW
Jamie‘s Italian D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/ italian/russia/st-petersburg. There are restaurants which carry this name in more than 30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and people are hard at work in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Limoncello E-3, Liteiny pr. 40, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 955 79 61, www.limoncello.su. This place is all about simple things - in fact the place is so simple in terms of food and presentation, it could well pass as a cafe rather than a ‚trattoria‘ as it says on the door. Choose from three homemade pastas with one of six different sauces, or scan through the pizza menu for something more substantial. Everything here tastes quite fine, and the lunch deals are especially good, but as a ‚destination‘, it holds nothing special. More a place just to hang out, that happens to serve food is how we felt on the last visit - although on a quiet day there‘s nothing wrong with that! Oddly enough there seems to be no dessert menu. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there), although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya). Q Open 24hrs. €. PTASW
Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
October - November 2013
Restaurants KwakInn C-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. A Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the long-gone Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says - settle in, we‘re all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub (the yellow walls bringing a lot of light to what should be a dark space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with the odd tv here and there showing the football. The food is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the journey. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAS Lapsha C-2, Kadetskaya liniya 9A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 920 44 14, www.probka.org. The first thing that grabs your attention upon entering Lapsha (Noodles) is the designer interior. The white walls, trendy furniture and a red scooter in the corner provide clients with a fresh, chic place to have a meal. The menu, while rather small, covers Chinese, Thai, Indian and Italian cuisines. The chicken curry, Pad Thai and dim sum are among Lapsha’s specialties. All items on the menu are marked for their level of spiciness, but, conveniently, all dishes can be spiced to order. Italian pasta dishes provide options for those who are not so fond of Asian cuisine and a children’s menu gives picky children something to eat.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVSW
Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island Vasilevsky Island is located at the mouth of Neva River – one of the many islands that make up St. Petersburg. The Strelka (arrow) spit of the island gives great views of the Winter Palace and Peter and Paul Fortress and is the ideal location to capture images of these magnificent buildings. It is also a frequent photo stop for newly weds. When Peter the Great was planning St. Petersburg, he imagined that the island would be the centre of the city and consequently many significant buildings and organisations are located within a tiny area of the island. These include Kunstkamera Ethnographic Museum, the Old St. Petersburg Stock Exchange, St. Petersburg State University (one of Russia’s oldest universities) and the Rostral Columns. The island also gives one of the best views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral which looks particularly picturesque during winter when the Neva has iced over and is covered with snow. The streets are laid out to ensure attractive views of key features in St. Petersburg such as the Admiralty Spire. It also features the city’s narrowest street, named after the famous artist Ilya Repin. However, there is more to the island; for example the former palace of Peter II, the Menshikov Palace (now an exhibition space for the State Hermitage Museum), the Erarta Contemporary Art Museum (the first of its kind in the city) and numerous parks – including a park where five decembrists were buried following the rising in 1825. The southern and eastern part of the island dates to the 18th century and is full of lovely streets (especially 6 and 7 Liniya), boutique shops and restaurants, mixed through with abandoned buildings that have yet to be restored. Several churches on the island add to the charm of the location and give it a connection with Old Russia. The island is linked to the mainland by several bridges, most notably Palace Bridge and Blagoveschensky Bridge while two metro stations on Line 3 provide quick access from the island to the city centre. The western part of the island was largely wild land and park until the 1950s and 60s when entire new neighbourhoods were constructed. The area is still undergoing intensive development with numerous apartments and offices being built. A new passenger port for cruise ships was recently constructed and has made St. Petersburg more accessible to cruises to and from Western Europe and Scandinavia.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW 1 Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Churchkhela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building above a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard to find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was helpful, supplying an English menu and recommending dishes. They have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty meals and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well as a business lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Overall the restaurant is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and somewhere to return to! A welcome addition to this part of the city. Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW
Russian Kitch C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 25, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 11 22, old.concordcatering.ru/restaurants/russian-kitch/. Is that Brezhnev and Castro we see kissing on the ceiling? Bear rugs, sumptuous cushions, multi-coloured walls, leopard print sofas, embellished pillars - could it get more kitsch than this? This restaurant is ironic on a grand scale in a grand location, overlooking the river Neva, with six dining halls, a conservatory and a dance floor. If it‘s vodka and caviar you‘re after, they have both black and red caviar with blini and many types of vodka - and the general cuisine is great. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALES Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the
famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW
The Old Customs House C-2, Tamozhenny per. 1, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 89 80, www. oldcustom.ru. Located in an 18th century warehouse, The Old Customs House is one of the city‘s finest restaurants. The exquisite food, good service and intimate atmosphere make for a great all-round experience. Connoisseurs and lovers of Russian cuisine should definitely visit the Wine Club and the Russian Vodka and Caviar House, which are connected to The Old Customs House. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PTALESW Tony‘s Kitchen A-3, Shopping Center Shkipersky
Mall, Maly pr. VO 88, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 988 80 20, www.tonykitchen.com. А joint project between well-known local designer Mikhail Orlov and Sardinian businessman Antonio Kastellani. The restaurant is named in Antonio‘s honour and is very spacious, laid out over two floors and 1000 square metres. The food will, of course, mainly be Italian but with a twist: there will be sushi, rolls, Thai soups, and pork ribs, in addition to the homemade pastas, pizzas, risotto and seafood. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTASW
Grad Petrov C-3, Universitetskaya nab. 5, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 01 37, www.die-kneipe.ru. This trendy beer restaurant with red brick walls and wooden furnishings serves a lighter version of classic German food and homebrewed beers. The lager, hefeweizen, pilsner and dunkel beers are brewed in house to classic Bavarian methods, and you can even arrange to have a tour with their friendly brewmaster. We like the sausage dishes; if you‘re hungry we recommend the metre-long Thuringer sausage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEBSW
October - November 2013
Nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!
Bars and Pubs BARSLONA E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 26, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, www.barslona.ru. This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by Russians - my what a difference a smile can make! As you would expect from a football mad country, match days have a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains are filling and flavoursome. The Barslona brand has 2 more locations at ul. Chernyshevskogo 9 (metro Chernyshevskaya) and ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1 (metro Nevsky pr.). QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PASW Dunes on Ligovsky E-3, Ligovsky pr. 50/11, MPl. Vosstaniya. The location backs up against Moscow train station - not that you‘ll hear many whistles or departure announcements what with the rock ‚n‘ soul on the stereo, lively conversation and game playing going on around you. There are seating palettes and rugs for the sand, a decked patio with the more traditional picnic tables and chairs, blankets for everyone on chilly evenings and a bright, rainbow-hued, retro-styled interior for inclement weather. As the day wears into night, the beers start to dominate and the laid-back atmosphere becomes positively boisterous. Excellent shashlik, grenki and hot dogs available at all hours. Q Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. EBW
Nightlife Helsinki Bar C-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that‘s the case if you were Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild rice. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW
Terminal Bar E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 13a, MVladimirskaya,
Pirogi D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. ru. Another local homage to Russia‘s love affair with British culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs to lean back in with a pipe and there‘s also even a bright red room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe‘ in the sprawling area upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW
Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man‘s pub where you can find dozens of single men who‘ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW
812 275 35 58, www.piterogi.ru. This bustling cafe-bar is one part bookshop, one part student hangout leaving the rest of the ample space for those people in the city who liked a relaxed atmosphere and fairly priced beer. The cute chequered tablecloths give Pirogi (meaning pies) its laid back cafe vibe, while the indie music and late open hours keep it in the bar bracket too. Nothing rowdy ever kicks off here, this is more the place for long chats over budget beer and pies and games of Jenga stretching off into the early hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAESW
tel. (+7) 812 939 61 23. The friendly owners here, who spent years in New York, insist that this long, thin and friendly bar is a homage to New York and their favourite bar there Terminal. We (Europeans) felt it was more like one of those friendly Spanish places where jolly conversations fall across beers and coffees along the long bar and out into the street. Either way, what they are offering here is all very good. A simple but clean bar, chatty staff and a good mix of happy regulars, plus quality music served at background levels. Our only complaint is why are the beers so small? Q Open 16:00 until last guest. PW
William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss-
Dacha D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, MNevsky pr.. This place
gets really crowded during the weekend but then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don‘t dress too fancy if you‘re coming here for the night, you‘re likely to get beer spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a few tables outside and the same quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lemonade and free wifi. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
Estrada D-3, Sadovaya ul. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 931 51 01, www.estradaclub.ru. Located in the heart of the city, the Estrada club will appeal to lovers of quality relaxation, good food and original theme parties. The club is divided into several zones, each of which is under a different pricing policy. There is a spacious dance floor, a wide bar for those who like noisy fun, meeting new people, and chatting, tables, sofas, and darkened corridors for romantic escape and friendly conversations. If you visit, you will feel at ease and relaxed. Some of the best DJs in the city are here. QOpen , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Fever D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19, MVasileostrovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www.karaokebarfever.ru. With the black glitter wallpaper, red plastic chandeliers and filagree curlicues decorating every available surface, this karaoke bar is more than a bit gothic Barbie. From the drinks menu to the 500Rbl songs everything in the joint in fact screams spending money is being glamourous. That being said, the sound system is quality, the stage is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song list is truly staggering in it‘s length and breadth. Friendly, professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if less than talented, take to the mike. It offers 2 private VIP rooms, which can be accessed by fingerprint, as well as two lounge areas for a fun company where you can smoke hookah, drink good wine and just eat and talk. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PALEW
Dva Mohito – Two Mojitos please! St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
October - November 2013
Nightlife Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,
Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,
Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The English meaning of grafin is “carafe” which is fitting since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass and steaks. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW
Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www.
Tsvetochki E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion so leave your bling at home. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PABW
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They‘re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who‘s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the bowl? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. PAEW tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya. If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat. The Hat boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types of bourbon. However, if you aren’t a huge whiskey fan, the expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you desire. The bar is designed to look like an old-time American bar that you would see in classic Hollywood road movies. There is live music everyday and when the live music stops, jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz rhythms are accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses and lively chatter, which creates a vibrant atmosphere that is sure to brighten anyone’s mood. So, if you are looking for good drinks, good music and good company, The Hat is the place to be! QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Open 17:00 until last guest. PEW
Cocktail bars Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW
Zing Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, MDostoevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 939 39 44. Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar soundtrack, it’s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move it’s all non-smoking and there’s little in the way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Night Life – Keeping safe A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and keep it safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks. Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink next to you, make sure someone doesn’t slip something in it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. Being kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you.
Daiquiri Bar D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
October - November 2013
sightseeing Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Monastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.
kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.
3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.
miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-
Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314
Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y
The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
October - November 2013
Churches and Monasteries
Modern Art Centres
Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya,
Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV-
Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services 10:00, 18:00.
Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb to the top of one of the belltowers. Smolny, once the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Iz-
mailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
Vladimirsky Cathedral D-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladi-
mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor. spb.ru. There are usually crowds of beggars and pensioners selling antiques at the entrance of this striking onion-domed church on Vladimirsky prospekt. The Icons on the second floor are worth seeing and the interiors are breathtaking. It‘s said that in communist times, an underwear factory operated in this cathedral. In 1990, it reopened as a church. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum. ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.
MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.
43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.
Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya
4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.).
State Museum of Political History of Russia
D-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. The State Museum of the Political History of Russia is the successor to the Revolution Museum. It is housed in two historic buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the ballerina M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The new exposition ‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man and the state at the crucial moments in the history of the country. The period of the revolution between 1917 and 1922 is presented in the exposition ‘February of 1917. The Breakdown of the Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms ‘Lenin’s Study’ and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Committee of Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exposition ‘The Soviet Epoch: Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images of that time – Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The exposition ‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl.
(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The spectacularly restored five story building is separated into two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian contemporary movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.
Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists, art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.
Tours around St. Petersburg Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel.
(+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU
Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburg-voyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency offers various private and group tours and excursions all over St. Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or visitors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring many of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only works with the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who are experienced, polite, and knowledgeable. Q TAU Sputnik C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sputnik8.com. Those who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service offered by Sputnik. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas or communal apartments. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city which tourists might never get to see. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW
St. Petersburg City Card Where ever you see this logo Y, it means you can get a discount or a free entrance at this venue with the Petersburg card. Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and discounts to many things this city has to offer, including museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years! Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 1800Rbl, 3 days (72 hours) - 2500Rbl, or 5 days (120 hours) - 3300Rbl, and begins after the first visit to a museum or a tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City Card’ office in St. Petersburg, via the website, or in some hotels and Post Offices of the city (the complete list is available on the website).
Lyrical City F. M. Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum E-3, Kuzhnechny
per. 5/2, M Vladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Dostoevsk y‘s weathered corner-apartment is a two minute walk from the metro. The museum is divided into two sections: literary and memorial (his apar tment and belongings). The audioguide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired him and photographs of the house where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.
Literature Museum C-2, Nab. Makarova 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05 02, www.pushkinskijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures. As well as works by Great Russian writers Lermontov and Tolstoy, you can find the writing-table of the great symbolist Blok. Did you know that the museum holds an astounding 12,000 manuscripts by poet Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl for 25 people group. October - November 2013
sightseeing Further Afield There is no time like autumn to catch the best of St. Petersburg and the surrounding parks and estates. The trees offer a spectacular range of colours as their leaves turn red and golden with the last heat of summer. Enjoy the last weeks of sun before winter sets in by visiting the parks and palaces around St. Petersburg.
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis.
Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace
Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the 18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter (this is also an official government building).
09.09 Monday - 31.10 Thursday
Exhibitions at the Konstantinovsky Palace
Tel. (+7) 812 438 57 15, www.konstantinpalace.ru. The exhibition of the imperial crown jewels is being held at the Konstantine Palace to mark the 400th anniversary of the Romanov Dynasty coming to power. The exhibition includes a copy of the Grand Imperial Crown which has been created by contemporary masters in Smolensk. The original imperial crown which was used by the tsars is preserved at the Moscow Kremlin and under Russian law cannot be relocated. However, visitors to this exhibition will have the opportunity to view a modern interpretation of this stately regalia which is a personification of the greatness and power of Russia. The crown was made from platinum and decorated with 11,500 diamonds and 74 pearls. The imperial theme is supported by the permanent exhibition at the Konstantine Palace with depictions of the Russian emperors and symbols of state power. A tribute to representatives of the Romanov dynasty can be seen in the exposition of family silver from the Naryshkin Collection. The imperial dynasty is also reflected in contemporary works made in amber - the ‘sun stone‘. Icons, sophisticated Easter eggs, sculptures and an amber violin all act as a background to the sumptuousness of the imperial dynasty. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed.
Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof (pronounced Petergof in Russian) is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff. Note than in autumn and winter months the fountains are switched off and boarded up, so you should only come if you are interested in seeing the palace itself. Other museums worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his closest (and rowdiest) friends.
Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranienbaum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and palaces 70 - 140Rbl. Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more information online.
The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.
Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visiting of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists.
Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online
or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Wed.
Pushkin – Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station.
Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along the Peterhof highway. By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.
October - November 2013
shopping Galeria Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Nevsky Centre Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one roof. There‘s also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Gifts and Souvenirs
Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen
Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, MVasil-
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK
Shopping centres DLT Department store В-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW
Vintage and Second-hand Banya Concept Store Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60,
MObnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www.banyaconcept.com. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Sweeter Shop D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 26, MNevsky pr., www.sweetershop.ru. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00.
Flower Etiquette If giving flowers to someone, you have no need to fear. A nice bunch of blooms is always acceptable. That is, if you give an odd number. Even numbers are only for funerals and the dead. As to what type of flower is a good one usually depends on the recipient. The red rose is considered as romantic in Russia as it is in most other countries. Take note though that due to the tradition of only giving an odd number, there can be no dozen red roses – just eleven. Tulips are used to express sympathy, yet yellow tulips hint to a hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty and chrysanthemums undying youth and health.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
eostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. This is one-stop shopping for all your souvenir needs, whether it‘s a handful of matroshka magnets for acquaintances back home or that upscale, unique piece of hand-painted lacquer for someone special. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. AU
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs from the classics Russian doll to quirky Soviet memorabilia. These are some of the more essential things you should consider bringing home with you.
Bosco Sport E-3, Nevsky pr. 54, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
Chocolate Museum D-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. This designer-chocolate boutique, tucked in the basement of the Stroganov palace, has handmade chocolates and chocolate sculptures. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AS
you want to look as much a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you need to get a Russian fur hat or shapka ushanka with ear flaps. Anything with red stars on earns you double spot-the-tourist points. Most things you will find in the markets are fake fur, if you want to pay for a real fur hat then head to a fur shop.
Exclusive Amber Collection D-3, Passage shopping
Matryoshka’s. Russian dolls are the quintessential
812 314 23 37, www.boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA
centre, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 921 961 35 14, www.amber-collection.ru. Here you can find all manner of products made from natural amber (rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and much more). Also on sale are icons, paintings and amber containing fossils. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
Shapka ushanka. If
Russian souvenir. Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design.
Platok. A perfect present for any female friend or rela-
Markets Kuznechny market E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 41 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. N Sennoy market D-3, Moskovsky pr. 4a, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 310 12 09, www.sennoyrynok.piter-center. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. N
La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. The gallery‘s collection includes original icon paintings, decorative amber articles, luxurious ornaments and a carefully chosen selection of original lacquer miniatures meticulously done in both classic and contemporary styles. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Onegin Art Gallery D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, www.onegin-gallery.com. Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, famous Russian porcelain as well as traditional St. Petersburg themed paraphernalia. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. ru. This is the shop to go to if you are interested in purchasing a high-quality scarf or shawl. Their designs feature many variations of traditional flowered motifs, along with more subdued hounds tooth patterns for the gentlemen or playful animals for children. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and exhibition spaces. YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift for your loved ones.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
tive. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.
Lacquer Boxes. Russian lacquer boxes are some of
the finest Russian handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist both sides of the lid.
Birch wood crafts. The silver birch is the national
tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Vodka and Caviar. They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. October - November 2013
expat and Lifestyle
expat AND Lifestyle International Schools/Pre-schools
In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking advantage of these connections.
German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo-
strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) D-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Accountants and Lawyers Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)
D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org.
Religious Services Business associations SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky
pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Relocation and Supplies AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cultural Centres and Libraries American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library
E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Raznochinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com. Usual Sunday services at 12:30 (2 times a month in Swedish, other 2 times in English). Sunday school for young children.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church
D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. petrikirche.ru. Q Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.
Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God
E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 04 42, www.kovensky.ru. Q Daily services in Russian Mon 19:00; Tue - Fri 08:30, 19:00, Sat 08:30, 19:00, Sun 10:30, 12:00, 19:00. Service in Polish every Sun 09:00. St. Michael‘s Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, www.stmihail.ru. Services Thu 19:00, Sun 11:00. After the Sunday service the Bible hour is held. Sunday school (except for the summer months). Concerts on Saturday and Sunday.
Clinics and Hospitals American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
The Expat Experience Interview with the founder of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket: Charles Hoedt. Tell us something about yourself? About my business or private life? Both? Well, in Russia the two get mixed together anyway. I have been working in Russia for more than 15 years, the first 10 years were in St. Petersburg, so I have a very special tie with this city. I met my wife at a party near the Moika canal, and you know what? She is Dutch too! So we had to travel all the way to Russia to find love. And love is mixed with business in Russia? Yes, you can say that! With Bonnie, my wife, I started the St. Petersburg In Your Pocket in 2003. There was no good English-language magazine about culture, events, restaurants, clubbing and expat life in Russia. There wasn’t even any good information for tourists. I found this very frustrating because St. Petersburg had, and still has, so much to offer. We wanted to share all the nice places we liked. Bonnie has a background in tourism and I in media, so during a pub-crawl one night we looked each other in the eyes and said: “why aren’t we going to start it?” Is doing business difficult in Russia? You have to know the ways. You need to have a good Russian network here. There is a big difference between what is written and what actual practice is. The first draft for our publishing company we made around the kitchen table with Russian lawyer friends advising us. Be prepared for surprises every day! I still feel extremely happy when I see people using In Your Pocket, reading it in restaurants or using it to find their way in the city. How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg. Any favourite places? I live in Moscow now, but I visit St. Petersburg several times a year. As a food lover the Sunday Brunch in Grand Hotel Europe is a must. Even in Moscow you can’t find such a good brunch. I like to stroll around the Neva, what a mighty river it is! Just walk from the Nevsky Prospekt boulevard to the St. Peter and Paul Fortress via the Palace Bridge and you know what I am talking about. What event you are looking forward too next months? Of course to the Dutch Days Festival in Higher Education I am organising (see page 15). And I am also looking forward to the 10th anniversary of Russia In Your Pocket in December. The party will be at a special place: the residence of the Dutch Consul-General with a view on the Neva river. To celebrate 10 years In Your Pocket here, with all our friends and clients, is something Bonnie and I are looking forward to. Sometimes we can’t believe that the company we started in 2003 is now the biggest publishing company for tourism products in Russia. St. Petersburg or Moscow? I feel home in St. Pete, but also in Moscow. Russians say you can’t love both, but I do. My favourite region is Siberia, especially Lake Baikal. And I enjoy being on Sochi’s Black Sea coast, a region with a rich history. Did you know the Russian honey and wines there are really great?
October - November 2013
expat AND Lifestyle Russian for Expats Na vore i shapka gorit – The thief’s hat is burning
This expression means that someone always gives himself away through guilty behaviour or appearance. This phrase can also be found in Hebrew, which may mean it entered the Russian language through the Jewish community. The legend goes that there was a thief on the loose but no one could catch him. Then one day at some kind of celebration, where all the locals were gathered, a wise elder yelled out – ‘the thief’s hat is burning’ and the man who quickly removed his hat was of course the culprit.
Banyas, Spas and Pools MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a. ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Holiday Club Spa and Wellness C-2, Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Rimskie kanikuly (Roman holidays) A-2, Park Inn Pribaltiskaya, ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 47 17, www.romanholidays.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. AKDC Royal Thai D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06/(+7) 911 157 15 15, www. royalthai.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL
Entertainment Centres Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi-
mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Divo Ostrov B-1, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 97 07, www.divo-ostrov.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00 Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAG Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW
Exhibition centers LenExpo trade fair B-3, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, MPri-
morskaya, tel. (+7) 812 321 26 15, www.lenexpo.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. SKK trade complex Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 12 11, www.spbckk.ru.
Fryday Lavrushka Cooking School The Lavrushka cooking school, located near the Admiralteyskaya metro station, offers you the chance to explore Russian cuisine. The courses, which last from 1 to 3 hours, are conducted by professional chefs, and are available in several languages, including English. It doesn’t matter whether or not you are skilled at cooking, as the staff are very friendly and helpful. You can learn to cook typical Russian dishes, including ‘pelmeni’ and ‘blini’, and the recipes will be emailed to you, so you can recreate them at home. Once the cooking is finished, you can sit and enjoy your meal together with your fellow cooks in the cosy dining room. There are courses for tourists, expats, corporate events, and parties for children, so simply choose what you’d like to learn how to cook, and register online. It’s very rewarding, and a great way to experience the traditional side of Russia.
Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see www.facebook.com/fryday.saintpetersburg.
By Plane St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.
Public transport and Taxis Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver. Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. Tickets cost 25Rbl. Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using large denominations and asking for change. Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, www.taxi7000000.ru
Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.
Buses City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno-
go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, MBaltiiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Lavrushka cooking school D-3, Nab. reky Moiky
81, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 58 60, (+7) 812 942 49 28, www.lavrushka.org.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Leaving St. Petersburg
Degtyarnie Bathhouses F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1,
Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi company and order transport to the airport in advance you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the international and domestic terminals with the city centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and ends at Vladimirskaya.
Train Stations Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti-
iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, Luga, Krasnoe Selo. Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, Karelia. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow and anywhere south of Moscow. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, Budapest, Vilnius.
Getting around Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking
Gde…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto
Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchyon Ne kurit Не курить
October - November 2013
GETTING AROUND Street Register 1-28-ya liniya B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Anichkov most E-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Baskov per. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Efimova ul. D-3 Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Galernaya ul. C-3 Glinki ul. C-3 Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Grafsky per. E-3 Griboedova kan. nab. C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3
Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Grivtsova per. D-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Letny sad D-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Liteiny most E-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Marata ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2
Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3/C-4/D-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Shvedsky per. D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Solyanoy per. E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2/F-3
Spassky per. D-3 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Troitsky most D-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Universitetskaya nab. C-2/C-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3
Abbreviations Ul. – Ulitsa Pr. – Prospekt Pl. – Ploshchad Bul. – Bulvar Per. – Pereulok Kan. – Kanal Nab. – Naberezhnaya Bol. – Bolshaya Mal. – Malaya
This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
October - November 2013
Whatâ€™s in a name? It was only in the 1760s that Nevsky Prospekt got its current name. With Peter the Great still alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it became Nevsky Prospekt. The communists decided to name the famous thoroughfare after the revolution: the 25th of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught on and they had to stick with the Nevsky moniker instead.
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russiaâ€˜s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky.
Introduction Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometers large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment – and attention – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not at a pace with the largest cities, it is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Autumn is a magical time of year as the trees change colour before your eyes and you can enjoy the last of the sunshine before ice and snow enclose the landscape. Culturally, the new theatrical season has started and the cities are full of new shows, exhibitions and concerts. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected Moscow, and an additional six provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, where “East meets West” and Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin. In this issue you can read about two important and old cities on the Volga River Samara and Yaroslavl. We include Sochi, the host city of the 2014 Winter Olympics and one of our latest online additions, Petrozavodsk, a quiet city located in the beauty of Karelian wilderness about 500km north of St. Petersburg.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.
Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.
Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State History museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view.
The Kremlin Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.
The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open
10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.
GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl.
Getting There Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.
October - November 2013
As the former capital of the biggest communist nation in the world (the USSR), Moscow is chock full of Soviet history which manifests itself in distinctive monumental architecture such as the iconic ‘seven sisters’ skyscrapers which are dotted around the city centre and the spectacular metro system. For a glimpse of Soviet megalomania, head out to the All Russian Exhibition Centre (more commonly known as VDNKh), where giant Lenin statues, space rockets and monuments to workers and peasants loom. Space fans should not miss out on a visit to the nearby Cosmonautics museum which boasts such historic memorabilia as the taxidermied bodies of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, along with the pods they flew to space in.
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.
All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl. Cosmonautics Museum Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel.
(+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.
Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val
10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU
Literature and Theatre Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been spectacularly renovated.
Enjoy the great outdoors Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic Patriarch’s Ponds.
Hotels Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under
arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. hhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh Medea Hotel D-4, Pyatnitsky per. 4, bldg. 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 48 98, medeya-hotel. ru. hhh
www.fb.com/MoscowInYourPocket St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Veliky Novgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.
If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.
It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.
Veliky Novgorod Kremlin
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art nightclub‘. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument.
Getting There By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky station). By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses
(journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours and costs 370Rbl.
Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh
Restaurants and Cafes Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. You can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW October - November 2013
Samara is one of Russia’s forgotten gems, often overlooked by westerners. Located on the Volga River, it has been a critical trade route and strategic location throughout history and played a crucial role in modern Russia. It was the home of famous Russian figures such as the writer Maxim Gorky, revolutionary leader Vladimir Lenin and space pioneer Sergey Korolev. During World War II, many factories and industries were evacuated to Samara, which served as the second capital to the besieged Soviet Union, and it became a centre for industry and culture. Consequently, many designs for late model World War II Soviet aircraft were developed in Samara, as was the Soviet Union’s space rocket research programme headed by Sergey Korolev. Samara’s aerospace industry is one of the most advanced in the world. For much of the Cold War, Samara was a closed city, isolated from Western influences, and because of that, it offers a different insight into Russian culture and society. It also became the refuge for Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean, who were part of the infamous “Cambridge Five” spy ring that provided information to the Soviet government during World War II. Samara is a modern and developed Russian city. Museums, modern art galleries and restaurants offer tourists a startling array of culture, history and experience. The night life is dynamic, playing music from classic rock to contemporary pop.
Alabin Historical Museum Leninskaya ul. 142, tel.
Sitting at the point where the mighty Volga river meets the smaller Kotorsol, Yaroslavl is a prosperous town dating back to 1010, which is rightly often referred to as the capital of the Golden Ring. Famed for its beautiful river side promenade, medieval churches and frescoes Yaroslavl boasts a UNESCO protected city centre, filled with 18th and 19th Century Russian architecture, such as huge, ancient gates and towers. In addition to its pristine architectural sights, Yaroslavl also has a fine art museum and a wealth of historic treasures on show in the main monastery. Perfect for a relaxing city break, Yaroslavl can easily be seen in a weekend, while if you have an extra day or two it’s a good starting point for a trip to the picturesque river ports of Kostroma and Plyos, which are just a 1,5hr bus ride away.
Hotels Ibis Samara Novo-Sadovaya ul. 160D, bldg. 3, MRossiyskaya, tel. (+7) 846 339 68 50, www.ibishotel. com. A short walk through a park from the banks of the impressive Volga River will bring you to this Ibis Hotel. Not far from the city centre, it is an ideal place to start exploring Samara, while being assured of the well-known service and quality of this Accor hotel. Throughout the hotel you can use free Wi-Fi, and all rooms have air conditioning. This is a very welcome addition to Samara. Q304 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (380Rbl) not included. PTHA6LGKW
Getting There By Train: There are 2 trains a day travelling to Samara. The journey takes between 31 and 40 hours depending on which train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 18:21 and 22:29 and arrive in Samara in the morning (09:23 and 05:20 correspondingly). By plane: There are two flights a day from St. Petersburg to Samara. The flights take around 2 hours 20 minutes. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
(+7) 846 333 70 15, www.alabin.ru. The Alabin Historical Museum has a collection of 180,000 items relating to the full spectrum of Russian history and natural sciences. It includes archaeological, mineralogical, zoological, botanical and ethnographic collections, and on display are, among other things, coin collections, rare books and weaponry from Russia, Western Europe and the Middle East. The museum also has a display relating to the history of Samara (Kuibyshev) during WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines Moskovskoe shosse 34, bldg 14, tel. (+7) 846
267 43 75. The Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines has the world‘s largest collection of Russian aircraft engines. The collection dates to the establishment of Samara State Aero-Space University founded in 1942. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lenin’s House Museum Leninskaya ul. 131-135,
tel. (+7) 846 333 68 58. Located in a late 19th century merchant mansion the museum preserves items of the period of Lenin‘s stay in Samara in 1890-93. It portrays the atmosphere and the material life of an intellectual family of this period. The museum also has a zone for temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Samara Art Museum Ul. Kuibysheva 92, tel. (+7) 846
332 33 09, www.artmus.ru. The Samara Art Museum has a fine collection of Russian art going back to the 18th century. However, its modern art exhibitions include some of the finest art produced in the 20th century by Russian and western artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 40 - 80Rbl.
Stalin’s bunker Ul. Frunze 167, tel. (+7) 846 333 35 71. When Germany invaded the Soviet Union in 1941 they advanced so rapidly that by 15 October 1941 their forces were only 16 km from the Moscow Kremlin. The Soviet Government decided to evacuate to Samara (known as Kuibyshev from 1935 to 1990). Consequently a bunker was prepared for Stalin in Samara. The bunker was a precise copy of Stalin‘s Moscow bunker and was completed at a rapid pace, being ready on 1 November 1942. The top secret facility was hermetically sealed and located 35 m underground. It was designed to be fully autonomous for five whole days in event of bombing raids and gas attacks. The bunker used the first air reusing system in the Soviet Union and had a large store of fresh food and water with two escape exits. The bunker now houses an exhibition on World War II. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, closed Sat, Sun. Admission 40 - 80Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Ibis Yaroslavl Center Pervomaysky per. 2a, tel. (+7) 4852 59 29 00, www.ibishotel.com. Opened in October 2011, the new Ibis brings much needed quality budget accommodation to Yaroslavl. The building is brand new and all the rooms have been fixed up to the Ibis brand standard. The location is perfect. Dead in the city centre, but situated just off the busiest streets to ensure a quiet night‘s sleep. Q177 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast not included (380Rbl). PTHA6ULGBKW hhh
Sightseeing Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor) Kotorol-
naya nab. 2a, www.yareparhia.ru. The first wooden cathedral was built here in 1215, destroyed by fire it was then rebuilt in the 16th Century and was completely destroyed again in the 20th Century by the Soviets. In 2005 it was decided to rebuild the cathedral once again and in an astonishing feat of construction the huge building was completed in just five years.
Church of St. Elijiah the Prophet (Ilya Prorok)
Sovetskaya pl. 7. The interiors here are easily some of the most bright and beautiful you will see in all of Russia. Frescoes, with a distinct blue which is typical to the Golden Ring region, cover every possible surface, soaring all over the walls and roofs and telling well known stories from the Bible. The church‘s amazing acoustics also add to the enchanting historic feeling of the place. Q Open 08:30 - 19:30.
Monument to our Lady of Kazan Kotoroslnaya nab.
26 (in front of the Our Saviour and Transfiguration monastery). This modern bell tower in front of the monastery was placed here in 1997 to commemorate the place where Minin and Pozhakrsky and their assembled army set off to oust the Poles from Russia in 1612. Now famous due its place on the 1,000 Rouble note it has become a popular spot for Russian tourists and wedding parties to take photos.
Spaso-Preobrazhensky (Transfiguration of the Saviour) monastery museum reserve Bogoyav-
lenskaya pl. 25, tel. (+7) 4852 30 38 69, www.yarmp. yar.ru. Yaroslavl’s most important monastery dates back to the 13th Century. All but destroyed during a fire in 1501, the monastery as you see it today was mostly built in the 16th Century. For centuries it was one of the biggest monasteries in Russia and by 1764 it owned vast amounts of land and had some 14,000 serfs. Almost every Tsar in history visited the monastery and it was behind its formidable walls that Minin and Pozharsky prepared their citizen’s army before sailing down the Volga to help defeat the Poles.
Volzhskaya Naberezhnaya (Volga Embankment).
Walking along the tree-lined river embankments is the favourite past time of the locals at any time of the year and the view of the Volga on one side and the many historical buildings on the other is delightful. Along the way you will pass dozens of (mostly 16th Century) churches, as well as the spit (strelka) which juts out at the point where two rivers meet. Further along the Kotorsol river side of the embankment there is a large beach and a rickety amusement park. There are numerous cafes to rest en route.
Getting There There are four trains a day travelling to Yaroslavl. The journey takes between 12 and 21 hours depending on which train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 17:40, 18:21 and 21:07. From Ladozhsky station (metro Ladozhskaya) trains depart at 16:45.
October - November 2013
sochi Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW
Sochi Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten thousand residents, a small expat community is working hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature of 23 degrees. The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.
Getting There Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say from experience. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 per day. The trains leave from different train stations (al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg takes between 37 and 57 hours. By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built along the coast. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard. When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport stadiums and high-speed railways.
Hotels Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, it will be hard to find them on the internet.
Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). PHA6ULGKDCSwW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Estosadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a threestar hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6UFLGKDwW Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� GKDCwW
Restaurants Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,
www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW
Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,
www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW
Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862
266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW
Sochi is the capital of the Winter Olympics 2014 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s airport, set amid magnificent scenery. It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively brief, from late December to April, but staff say the last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of the great outdoors. In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.
Pomegranate Explosive! Try this freshly squeezed juice upon arrival in Sochi to boost your energy. You will see it being sold everywhere, at the local markets, and even along the beaches. Special juicing machines have been made to crush the pomegranates (you can buy one of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine.
October - November 2013
Petrozavodsk Karelskaya Gornitsa Ul. Engelsa 13, tel. (+7) (814) 278 53 00, www.gornica.ru. The creation of Finnish head chef Tarmo Vasenius, this restaurant is unique in serving Karelian cuisine. The great Karelian lakes provide the menu with a lot of fish, as well as wild animal meat, such as bear and deer, mushrooms from the forest, and drinks made from cowberry (brusnika) and cloudberry (moroshka). Gornitsa is an attraction in itself, designed to look like a Karelian peasant izba (house) with wood, samovars, and the red and white embroidered cloth that is traditional in the area.
Kizhi Open-Air Museum
Parizhanka Pr. Lenina 31, tel. (+7) 814 279 56 72,
paris.ptz-group.ru. “The Parisienne” is ubiquitous in Petrozavodsk, with nince outlets (see the web for all addresses) of this popular café in the city. With a 24 hour opening, the café is perfect for a hot chocolate in plush surroundings, with tempting patisserie on offer. Very popular with wedding parties popping in in the midst of taking photographs at the local sights of interest, as is the custom.
Known in Finnish as “Petroskoi”, Petrozavodsk is the capital of the independent republic of Karelia, a region with a unique Finno-Russian culture. It’s location on Lake Onega, the second-largest lake in Europe, makes it the ideal stopping-off point for visits to Kizhi island, a unique openair museum, displaying the wonders of Northern Russian wooden architecture. The iconic wooden Transfiguration church and other period log buildings are protected by UNESCO as objects of cultural importance. Lake Ladoga nearby is home to the Valaam Monastery, and the Solovestskie Islands in the White Sea, home to a tragic history as a monastery and then labour camp, are also accessible from Petrozavodsk. The city’s name derives from Petrovsky Zavod (Peter’s Factory), as it was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great as a location for his iron foundry at the time of the Great Northern War with Sweden. During the Occupation War (1941-44), the city was occupied by Finnish troops for three years before being won back by the Red Army. The neo-classical architecture and sculpture-lined embankment mean that the town is more than provincial, with plentiful opportunities to take advantage of the Karelian forests for walking, hunting, and fishing. From Petrozavodsk you can reach the famous islands of Kizhi, Valaam and the Solovetskie islands.
Park Inn by Radisson Petrozavodsk Pl. Gagarina 1, tel. (+7) 814 271 70 70, www.parkinn.com/hotelpetrozavodsk. This hotel complex blends Park Inn‘s “live well, sleep well” motto with the luxury knowledge of the Radisson group. Situated right next to the railway station, the hotel is perfect for business clientele, with six meeting rooms, including a large conference hall that seats 200, whose glass windows offer natural daylight and splendid views down to the lake. Rooms are ultra modern, with Swedish design to match the northern location. Munich‘s celebrated Paulaner brewers are opening a two-floor restaurant downstairs, with four types of beer brewed on site and live entertainment from local jazz and folk groups. The hotel‘s 24 hour gym and free high-speed WiFi ensure the high quality of this international brand. Q180 rooms (Room prices start at 4,050Rbl). PTHAUFKW
Getting There By train: You can reach Petrozavodsk by train from both
Petrozavodsk Hostel Krasnaya ul. 28, tel. (+7) 911
400 56 46, www.petrohostel.ru. Just off the main street in town, this low-cost hostel is perfect for a budget stay in the centre of the city with quick access to restaurants, shops and the lake. The hostel has a 24 hour reception and registration, WiFi, and help with organizing trips to Kizhi, Valaam and other places of interest. Their beds come from 390Rbl for a bed in a room for 6 to 2,000Rbl for a room for two. Everything is very tidy and friendly, and they speak English at reception. Q PAW
Restaurants and Cafes Café Kivach Pr. Lenina 28. This café is unsurprisingly
Moscow and St. Petersburg. There are four everyday trains from the Moscow Lenigradsky railway station (Metro Komsomolskaya.) The overnight trains are at 20:30, arriving 09:45, and 21:20, arriving at 12:18. Prices vary from 1,500 (third class) to 2,500Rbl (second class). From St. Petersburg here are three trains daily, with the best overnight option being 22:02 - 06:40 unless you want to arrive in the middle of the night or travel all day.
Deja-Vu Bistro Pr. Lenina 20, www.dejavu.petrofood. ru. Opposite the Severnaya Hotel, this place is perfect to stop off at if you get tired on the long walk down Prospect Lenina to the lake. Essentially French-inspired, there is also classic beef stroganoff and pasta dishes.
By plane: Petrozavodsk has an airport, although be
Fregat Restaurant-Club Pr. Karla Marxa 1, tel. (+7)
warned that there have been recent fatal accidents in the Russian North.
Petrozavodsk Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre, Ul. Kuibysheva 5.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
popular with students, being located opposite the university building. Decent pizza and pasta dishes.
814 279 64 98. This café is an ideal spot for breakfasting if you have an early boat trip to Kizhi, as from the veranda you can watch the terminal to make sure you don‘t miss your lime-green Kometa.A range of essentially French cuisine, they also have a range of local dishes, including deer with forest berries from 390Rbl.
Strannoe Mesto Pr. Karla Marxa 14.. “Strange Place” is an eccentric little café we heard about by word of mouth. If you speak Russian, every menu has its own small short story, and ordering takes a long time while everyone at the table reads each one! The interior is an eclectic collection of sewing machines and black and white photographs of the town. The menu is in English and in Russian, with Russian meat dishes, pasta, and pizza. The tea and coffee options are for the specialist palate-try the Taiga tea, made of forest berries and blackberry leaves, or Rooibos with bilberry and heather.
Sightseeing While the excursions to the local islands are the main attraction, the city centre also has a lot to interest the tourist. The embankment is the first port of call, as you’ll naturally want to see Lake Onega, but some architectural details are also not to be missed. The town still has some examples of old wooden town buildings, some of which are still inhabited. You can spot some opposite the Severnaya Hotel on your way down Prospect Lenina. To get an idea of the founding of Petrozavodsk, head to the 18th century adminstrative buildings on Lenin Square. The art museum is also well worth a look if you want to see modern Karelian culture.
Embankment. A stroll on the embankmentis a must. Lined
with sculptures donated from Petrozavodsk‘s twinned towns, promenade along here to watch the boats and gaze at the misty hills on the other side of Lake Onega. On the eastern side, asculpture of Peter the Great eternally points towards the town, ordering it to be built. Don‘t miss the tents that are set up here in summer, serving beer and shaslyk-style kebabs.
Lenin Square (Pl. Lenina). Once named the ‘Round Square,‘ which is only a paradox in the English language, this circular square was built in 1775 and is the centre of historical Petrozavodsk. The classical two-storey buildings, painted in the pale-yellow seen all over Russia, once housed the Gubernial Chancellery and other 18th century administrative buildings. Museum of Fine Art of the Republic of Karelia Pr.
Karla Marxa 8, tel. (+7) 814 278 37 13, artmuseum. karelia.ru. This wonderful art museum on Kirova Square has an outstanding collection, from icons displaying the Northern russian tradition of painting, to their unique collection of twentieth-century local paintings, with some exquisite landscapes depicting the beauty of Karelian nature.Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 750Rbl for adults, 100Rbl for special exhibitions. Audioguides (100Rbl) are available in Russian, English, and Finnish.
The highlight of any visit to Karelia, Kizhi open-air museum is a magical mix of architectural and ethnographic wonder. Russia is famed for the expansiveness of its forests, which gave rise to the inventiveness of the Northern craftsmen. They used their expertise at carving wood to build not only sheds, barns and cowsheds, but houses, chapels and churches. Kizhi island is the place where the varied marvels of Northern Russian wooden architecture have come to rest from villages and hamlets in the Onega Lake area, which numbers over 1650 islands. The iconic Transfiguration Church is famous for being built ‘without a single nail‘, that is to say, the structure is entirely made from wood. The magnificent structure rises from the island like a lofty tree, its twenty-two onion domes seeming to crown it like pine cones. Culturally and architecturally unique, It was added to Unesco‘s World Heritage list in 1990.The art of Karelian wood-carving can also be seen upon visiting the peasant houses on the island. The 19th-century house of the peasant Oshenev has been called a house-complex, as its design perfectly matches the needs ofthe enormous web of a Russian peasant family, whose life was dictated by the seasons of the Russian North. During the harsh winter, the wife could feed the cattle in the cowshed by scattering grain through the floorboards of the workroom to the cowshed below, avoiding going into the freezing whiteness outside. The white nights of summer were the time for fishing expeditions, and so the front of the house gives immediately onto the lake-side, which ripples with reeds and hidden fish.The remote beauty of the lakes and forests which surround the visitor here are undoubtably the inspiration for the churches, and the whole of Karelian traditional life.
Getting there By hydrofoil: If you haven‘t arranged your ticket from
a tour operator, you can buy a ticket from one of the kiosks at the boat terminal. Make sure to do this at least a day in advance. The journey to the island takes an hour and a half. The main office at the boat terminal is open 08.00 - 21.00 daily. www.kareliaflot.ru
By helicopter: In winter you can get a helicopter to the island. Contact Peski Airport, Borovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 814 274 74 66 or a Petrozavodsk travel agency. Tours
Tourist groups are formed upon arrival to the island if you want a guided tour, or you can visit the buildings by yourself. Admission for foreign citizens is 625Rbl, with another 100 for the excursion, which is professional and informative. Audioguides are available from the ticket office in English, Finnish, Russian for 150Rbl. www. kizhi.karelia.ru
October - November 2013
Kazan Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city (as their official slogan states) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The undisputed must-see attraction in Kazan is the UNESCO listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve visited the Kremlin make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in. Download our Instant Guide at kazan.inyourpocket.com.
Kazan Kremlin The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many vendors selling local souvenirs.
Getting There By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky station (metro Komsomolskaya). By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7
are the main (and safest) airlines offering international transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned companies offer connecting flights via Moscow.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular view over the river. Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage museum. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature alongside the stunning art, and there is also a large dedication to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork. Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.
(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as Europe’s largest mosque.
Hotels Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla
Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, www.kazancourtyard.ru. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). PTHAUFGBKW hhhh Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul. 43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, www.ibishotel.com. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). PHA6ULKW hhh Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Q151 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL� GKW hhhh