food & drink restaurant review
Delamina WORDS: MARIANNE DICK
I
n the midst of what feels like the longest winter I’ve ever experienced, I’ve found myself craving al fresco dining – preferably with a bright, juicy salad and a glass of chilled white wine. Right on cue, Delamina has arrived in Marylebone. The new venture from the couple behind Strut and Cluck in Shoreditch (Israeli-born executive chef Limor Chen and her husband Amir), opened at the beginning of March: perfect timing for the first signs of spring, or so one might have thought. At least the décor hints at warmer weather, even if the heavens open on the evening that I visit. Designed by Chen herself – art is another of her talents – Delamina is unmistakably related to Strut and Cluck. The exposed brick walls are painted a cool white, the chairs are casually mismatched and hanging plants are suspended at various heights above diners. Homely knick-knacks and family photographs give the impression of being on the Chen family’s summer terrace. In seasonal spirits, my guest and I begin by ordering cocktails from a menu of fabulously titled concoctions. I go for a floral flute of The Fifi Abdou – prosecco, rosé, elderflower and crème de peches – while my friend opts for Jaffa I’ve Mist You, a citrusy nectar containing Havana 7, elderflower and orange. The menu is designed for sharing and there are no strict courses, so we are still happily sipping our cocktails when the first appetiser arrives. The Spicy Crispy Okra is as simple as it sounds: fiery al dente pods mellowed by a light, buttery tempura batter. The Pita Balagan (meaning ‘mess’) of the day sounds irresistible, and doesn’t disappoint. The crisp, fluffy bread is piled with fresh, velvety burrata, tomatoes, pine nuts
FROM TOP: Delamina interior; cod smothered with chermoula; sirloin steak; Charcoaled leeks, Spicy Okra tempura, Butter beans levant & Salad of Avocado
and balsamic vinegar. We also order a portion of baby aubergines topped with black sesame, crumbled goats’ cheese, almonds and raisins, and drizzled with a tamarind and honey dressing. The combination of sweet, tart and creamy flavours is cheek-shudderingly tasty, and while the menu as a whole is based on the nutritious eastern Mediterranean diet, it tastes naughty. Bonus. From the charcoal grill, we choose the cut of the day: tender strips of rare steak, Jerusalem artichokes and red peppers smothered in an indulgent homemade tahini and a sweet yet spicy pepper sauce. From the seafood menu, we don’t look further than the squid marinated in za’atar – a Levantine herb blend mixed with toasted sesame seeds and salt – which is pan-seared, then served with roasted tomatoes, caperberries and crispy cavolo nero. The savoury marinade and briny leaves add an umami quality to dish. The squid could have perhaps been more tender, but then again the meat beside it melted in the mouth. Our feast is rounded off with a highly recommended parfait of halva and roasted almonds. Halva is a traditional Middle Eastern confection made of honey, sesame seeds and sugar, similar to nougat; the addition of a sticky date syrup and raw tahini drizzle makes it taste curiously like a Snickers bar. The rain may still be pouring when we leave, but summer finally feels within reach. In the meantime, vitamin Delamina is the cure. 56-58 Marylebone Lane, W1U, delaminamarylebone.co.uk
LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 075