given the ski holiday company’s exacting standards. And to top it off, the owners showered their abode in €750,000 worth of new kit to ring in 2016, including the aforementioned alfresco hot tub on a brand new tiered terrace, a games room and a revamp of the traditional alpine-themed rooms and en-suite bathrooms. Fabulous rooms aside, I could wile away the weekend on this terrace, breathing in crisp air that’s like tonic to my city-soaked lungs. But duty calls; there’s champagne and canapés waiting in front of a wood fire in the cavernous lounge, which has also been fixed up with new furnishings. The evening passes, just as any good mountain getaway should, in a blur of food, wine and copious amounts of cheese. It’s quite marvellous the things that brisk mountain air can do to a wine-befuddled mind. An early start pays off when I’m lucky enough to swipe first tracks (ski speak for getting onto the slopes before the lifts open to the rest of the horde) and the untarnished views make up for a slightly wobbly start. Carving my way through virgin snow alongside my much-needed instructor, Alex, I come to understand why Val d’Isère is often top of the list for snow bunnies – and it isn’t just because of record snowfall, lively aprèsski or the infamous ‘La Face’ run; used in the 1992 Winter Olympics and in countless competitions since, the vertiginous run is considered to be one of the most challenging black-rated pistes in the world. Linked to Tignes, the Espace Killy ski area spans 300km of well-groomed pistes that suit all levels, and infinite effort is put into maintaining its legendary ski status. The lift systems are constantly being upgraded and the dreaded button lifts have been replaced with a new series of fantastic uphill carpets that would give Aladdin cause for celebration. Alex, who has spent the last three years instructing here, is clearly proud to be a part of the whole process and doesn’t hold back in explaining why. “To help ready the pistes for the various competitions that take place here each year, every instructor gives up a certain number of days to assist with the prep, and in return we’re gifted ski passes for the day.” It’s clearly a streamlined operation. As it happens, there’s also more than one property here getting a facelift. Le Yule is a new hotel that opened for the 2016 season, so I pitch up at the hotel’s front-deneige terrace and enjoy a glass of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé, before bundling into the restaurant for lunch. A Scandinavian theme runs throughout, reflected in 41 plush rooms and a lower level spa, operated by Nuxe skincare brand, with a pool looking out on the Bellevarde slope. En route back to Eagle’s Nest, I sneak into a few of Scott Dunn’s other properties, perhaps the boldest
being Chalet Husky. A bolthole worthy of a James Bond charade, Chalet Husky has an arresting glass atrium at its centre, disco light floors, a swimming pool with a glass side and a feature waterfall and climbing wall laid into the natural rock formations. It’s the polar opposite – modern and ostentatious – of Chalet Eagle’s Nest, but equally suited to hedonists. Eager to return to the classic charms of Eagle’s Nest, I barrel in through the front door kicking snowflakes as I go. It’s straight downstairs to the epic spa zone for a pre-dinner dip, where a sauna, steam room and lap pool with a jet stream awaits. As to be expected, Chalet Eagle’s Nest comes hosted by an army of staff, including a chef. The highlight though, is perhaps the company of MasterChef 2014 champion Ping Coombes, with whom Scott Dunn first partnered in the summer of 2015. Bringing her Malaysian-inspired fare first to the travel group’s villas, Coombes has since rolled out a new menu across the winter portfolio for 2016. “It’s an Asian take on chalet dining,” she explains, as we inhale flavorsome mushroom laksa, washed down with her signature spiced gin and tonic. “The warmth of these Asian flavours reflects the comfort aspect of winter food, but it’s lighter.” And indeed, her delectable cuisine is a welcome alternative to the heaviness of a typical chalet feast. The time comes to salute the cast bronze eagle that guards Chalet Eagle’s Nest, sculpted by celebrated contemporary artist Livio Benedetti and cloaked in a glittering veil of fresh snow. En route to Geneva airport in Scott Dunn’s souped-up minivan, we come to a sudden halt. Two cars up ahead are having a rumble. A woman advances on her antagonist, screaming blue murder, before reaching into the car window and slapping her adversary. “She’d be a damn sight more relaxed if she spent a week at Chalet Eagle’s Nest,” one of my fellow passengers murmurs, with a privileged glow. “Never mind, there’s always next year.”
more information Scott Dunn offers seven nights at Chalet Eagle’s Nest, Val d’Isère from £1,790 per person. This is based on full chalet occupancy and includes British Airways club class flights, private airport transfers, Scott Dunn chef, host and in-resort driver service. Visit scottdunn.com or call 020 8682 5050