& DINING
DRINKING Entente Cordiale
I must confess; to date I have not frequented many culinary establishments in Earl’s Court, instead gravitating towards nearby Chelsea and leafy Holland Park. However, AA Gill (love him or hate him, his opinion tends to be heard) lavished five stars upon Garnier and so a visit to this French bistro in SW5 was in order. Garnier has been set up by the team that opened Racine on Brompton Road and Le Colombier in Chelsea and its name took its inspiration not from L’Oreal’s cosmetics brand but from the name of a restaurant that was established by one of the owner’s fathers, which sat on the banks of the Loire. The website declares that Garnier’s red and cream décor “gives the peaceful surroundings a traditional yet buzzing feel” but I’m not quite convinced. It’s simple to the point of being a bit plain and I long for something (art or plants perhaps) to break up the monotony of white tablecloths, yellow walls, red seating and a sequence of identical gilt-edged mirrors. When I arrive on a muggy Tuesday evening at 7.15, it’s rather quiet (I’d have enjoyed some background music) but by the time I leave (10pm), it’s full and I am certain this is because of the calibre of the food. The waiting staff are friendly and efficient, but not overbearing, which I like. Due to AA Gill’s unusually high praise, I deemed it necessary to bring my most gastronomically knowledgeable friend with me. Quite simply, she declares the food “faultless”. This is true. I eat until I think I can’t manage another mouthful, then after a few minutes respite, somehow I do. The excellent wines are worthy of a mention first; the Honore de Berticot Sauvignon by the glass is fruity and fresh and the house red is outstanding. I devour the risotto with basil pesto, green almonds and burrata cheese for my starter (£7.50), which is absolutely delicious (and as creamy as you’d expect – forget the diet at Garnier). This is perhaps an ambitious starter though, given that I choose the fillet of Scottish beef with black pepper sauce for my main course (£25.50). The sauce is thick and rich (the kind you’d dip your chips in, and I do) and the pepper-crusted steak packs quite a punch. My guest’s steak tartare (£11.90) is deliciously rare, and the main course of calf’s liver is equally meaty (£18.90) although we do debate the inclusion of radishes. Leave space for les desserts; authentically French Crêpes Suzette and Creme Brulée. Sweet and tangy, and sweet and creamy, these ensure I leave rather full but fully satisfied. Annabel Harrison Garnier, 314 Earl’s Court Road, SW5 9BQ, garnier-restaurant-london.co.uk