the PROCESS BOOK of
HIDE & SEEK a collection by RUIHAN LI
THE PROLOGUE As what my friends told me: “THIS IS THE LAST TIME TO SCRATCH AN ITCH.“ I am excited that at the final semester of RISD, I was able to devote half a semester to a project that I have always wished to have the chance and time to explore. So for my Senior Studio, I hope to combine my love for soft goods and fashion to design and produce a set of three fashion handbags under the theme: “HIDE AND SEEK” I invite you to take a peek into my the process, a journey of more than 245 hours of ideation, exploration, and construction that brought life to my first handbag collection. Thank you for joining me on this wild ride. -- Ruihan
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I wish to embrace childhood curiosity when interacting with an object, especially a product that belongs to the body, but not constraint to the body. Taking inspiration from playful objects and colors, I want to explore the endless possibilities of exciment and element of surprise when engaging with a handbag.
THE INSPIRATION
During my material research, I was fascinated by materials that shown qualities of hidden and reveal, and have the ability to bury objects within or layer on top.
I have concise the inspiration to several key words:
- Hidden and Reveal - Curiosity - Playful - Childhood Memories -
THE EXPLORATION This is the initial exploration phase when I go into a creative project like this. I like to combine rough sketches, technical drawings, collage, and pattern making with a lot of fabric explorations at the same time to not set limitations on what can inspire me.
THE PROTOTYPES
After making the decision on the material and fabric, I started working on muslin models and look-alike models to test the form, construction order of operation, and sizing of the handbags.
This is also the phase where I realized the importance of prototyping, for example, the image above showed that the clutch bag is made bigger than intended.
THE SPEC SHEETS
I enjoy to start out the process by writing down an extensive list of order of operation for each handbag, quick notes on problems so solve and matters that needs attention.
THE CONSTRUCTION
- bag 1 / the meadow tote -
Bag 1 started with cutting out the basic shape and calculating the exact strand number to match both sides. Strands were plucked off on the sides to give seam allowance. Then the extensive beading started. Colorful beads were hand-sewn in each grid intersection, until both front and back panel were completed.
A 1/2 inch foam is sandwiched between the lining fabric and the main body, and sewn with a larger grid pattern. Beads are then hand-sewn on each intersection.
- bag 2 / the pool party handbag -
Bag 2 is layered with silicon sheet, checkerboard organza, and matching baby blue beads sew on each transparent square as the main body. The handbag then have both a stiff interfacing for structure, and a foam interfacing for touch sandwiched in between the lining and main body.
Pipings are made with wraping cotton rope with silicon sheets to have the a clean and more elevated finish on the edges.
A welt pocket is also added in the interior for better utility purpose. It is measured and designed to fit in a standard phone or wallet.
The top edge is stictched with a ladder stitch instead of top stitch to give a neat finish.
Due to the nature of silicon, it is difficult to machine-sew the handbag together, therefore, this handbag is constructed with hand-stiching only.
- bag 3 / the fur babt clutch -
Bag 3 is constructed with two open styrene boxes that are 3 x 6 x 6 inches. Two boxes are connected with plastic hinges on the bottom to allow opening and closing.
The interior is first layered with a sheet of foam interfacing, then with lining wraped on top.
Clutch closure is selected for a seamless closure on top.
The exterior is then wrapped with faux fur, along with a full fur handle.
Black beads, to match the interior, are sewn in a grid pattern. They will apear and disapear through different angles and touch.
THE BAGS - bag 1 / the meadow tote -
- bag 2 / the pool party handbag -
- bag 3 / the fur baby clutch -
THE PHOTOSHOOT Special thanks to: WENDY CHAO, MANKUN GUO
A spreadsheet of the information of each bag, keywords of each shoot, specific shot list, props and clothing were created in preperation of a smooth photoshoot process.
Behind the scenes!
(Please turn to HIDE & SEEK lookbook for final photographs)
my worktable on March 22, 2022 at 6:33 PM
Handbags by RUIHAN LI Process book by RUIHAN LI