ROLLACOASTER SUMMER 2013
TINIE TEMPAH
THE RETURN OF RAP’S RABBLE ROUSER
9 772045 296007 08
A LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN SPECIAL
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HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700
SHOP ONLINE HUGOBOSS.COM
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CONTENTS
ROLLACOASTER
ISSUE 8
A/W13
EDITOR’S LETTER There’s a scene in famous early nineties “Golden Age of Clubbing” documentary Paris is Burning, where Pepper LaBeija discusses fellow drag queens robbing shops for clothes to wear at midnight balls in New York City: “They sleep in the under 21 or they sleep on the pier or whatever. They don’t have a home to go to, but they’ll go steal something, come to the ball for that one night, and live the fantasy. A ball is the very word – it’s whatever you want it to be. A chance to display your beauty and your wit - you can become anything and do anything.” Watching it again, in an age brimming with references to the decade – be it girl group Haim’s breezy centre partings or Spring Breakers’ rave-y, day-glo aesthetic – led Rollacoaster, Pogs in hand, deep into the archive. We trawled through listings of cultish clubnights from the nineties prevalent everywhere
from the Lower East Side to Lagos for fashion story titles (try Danceteria, p. 62, or The PSV, p. 108). In love and inspired, the following pages reflect an era in fashion that channeled real world issues (heroin, AIDs, war, poverty, globalisation) into tales of escapism and chic vulnerability. Our cover star, rappop’s Tinie Tempah, exemplifies all it is to be a product of the nifty nineties: gifted, connected, financially and fashionably minded, 2013’s jet-setting songwriter knows how to turn talent into turnover – and proudly so. Elsewhere, we look at New York City’s resurgent punk rock scene, visit the workstations of designers ahead of their London Collections: Men shows and speak to the new Roc Nation girl on the block, Arlissa – a girl who knows a thing or two about the era’s lynchpin popstars. Party on.
CONTENTS
6_THE @ LIST 10_THE SPOTLIGHT 12_ASHLEY WILLIAMS 14_JOSEPH TURVEY 15_ALAN TAYLOR 16_MATTHEW MILLER 17_TOPMAN DESIGN 34_HUGO BOSS 46_ARLISSA 54_TINIE TEMPAH 82_THE RIOT SQUAD 92_JOSH BOWMAN 94_PETER VACK 95_LUKE GRIMES 96_JACOB ARTIST 100_THE 1975 120_TIM FURZER
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TINIE cover photography by RORY VAN MILLINGEN, fashion by ANDREW DAVIS
MASTHEAD Editorial Director & Publisher HUW GWYTHER Assistant To Editorial Director & Publisher ANTONIA WEBB Creative Director ANDREW DAVIS Editor JACK MILLS Deputy Editor ZING TSJENG Art Director JAMIE BRUNSKILL Art Editor NICOLA ROBERTS Senior Contributing Fashion Editor ANNA TREVELYAN Junior Fashion Editor SAM CARDER Contributing Fashion Editors SIOBHAN LYONS, STEVE MORRISS, JAYSON HINDLEY, MADELEINE ØSTLIE Sub Editor HELEN LAWSON Contributing Fashion Editor New York SAMANTHA CASOLARI Contributing Fashion Editor LA NEIL RODGERS
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Contributing Photographers RORY VAN MILLINGEN, MATT HOLYOAK, JEFF HAHN, KARINA TWISS, DANIELLE LEVITT, NICK HADDOW, DOUG INGLISH, FELIX COOPER, RHYS FRAMPTON, BELLA HOWARD, NEIL BEDFORD, SAMANTHA CASOLARI, SIMON BØCKER MØRCH, RORY DCS Fashion Assistants GIULIA ODDI, SAMANTHA GOLD, ITUNU OKE, JADE FINNAN, HANNAH DOWNES Advertising Director TOM LIVESLEY (+44) 020 7423 9971 Special Projects Manager ELLIE WYTHE (+44) 020 7243 9977 Account Manager DAVID NOTTINGHAM (+44) 020 7243 9977 Italian Representative KMEDIA SRL PAOLO CASSANO Managing Director HUW GWYTHER Sales Director TOM LIVESLEY Financial Director DAN GWYTHER
Colour Reproduction PH MEDIA Printing by WYNDEHAM PETERBOROUGH Reproduction of any part of this publication is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publishers, including all logos, titles, and graphic elements ROLLACOASTER info@rollacoaster.tv 133 Notting Hill Gate, London, W11 3LB Tel (+44) 020 7243 9966
Rollacoaster is published by Visual Talent Ltd
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THE THE @ LIST a LIST Photography BELLA HOWARD Fashion ANDREW DAVIS & MADELEINE ØSTLIE
Fashion assistants SAM CARDER & GIuLIA ODDI Digital operator LEE WHITTAKER Hair by LEE MACHIN Hair assistant LIV HOIST Makeup by LyNz MARSDEN Makeup assistant FLORA DICKIE Models GINATARE at STORM, ERIN at SELECT & CHuCK at PREMIER Klout kids OLLIE, ALDO, RHyS, THOMAS & RIVER
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Clockwise from top left RiveR CRowson @RiverCrowson. Followers: 28,133 Aldo wAlsh @Aldowalsh. Followers: 29,915 ChuCk JunioR AChike @_chuckjunior. Followers: 4,167 ThomAs BRACkley @thomasbrackley1. Followers: 15,974 olly Riley @_ollyRiley. Followers: 158,345
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In the frenetic, predictably unpredictable world of Twitter, something strange is occurring: a cluster of fresh-faced, opinionated young characters — each with gargantuan follower-figures — are uprising as bedroom social media celebrities. Take it from Klout, the app that measures tweeters’ influence on the site based on their ability to stimulate, spread and infiltrate topics and conversations (retweets and hashtags are Kloutland currency). Klouters are given a score out of 100; a sort of quantified qualifier for daily ab-growth portraits and girl-chasing Twit-woos. The team behind Klout, founded in San Francisco in 2008, may claim “they believe everyone that creates content has influence”, but this maledominated battalion know how to work their digipresence better than most. Arguably Twitter’s best known pseudo-star, London’s Olly Riley (Followers: 165,506; Following: 406), has made controversy-courting tweets about girlfriends (and, very possibly, other peoples’) his mainstay after-school occupation. Admitting that his cult has gotten a little out of hand (“People just say
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all the time ‘You look like Olly Riley’. EVERY TIME”, he tweeted in January) is the least of his worries. It seems Riley spends most of his time battling his way through snarky comments and hate-fuelled RTs. He even hit blogosphere headlines after calling the bluff of Twitter enfant terrible @Riley_69, who was arrested in July for sending abusive tweets to Olympic medal-winning diver Tom Daley. An infinitely magnetic online persona or an innate ability to hold people’s attentions in their clasp: what is it, exactly, that steers these DIY dudes to @-list victory? River Crowson, fashion designer and one of Twitter’s filthiest-minded sensations, claims that when it comes to online popularity-making, honesty is the best policy. “I’m original and tweet the truth — maybe it is a little harsh and too honest,” he admits to Rollacoaster. “I tweet how I feel”. With thanks to Klout, Rollacoaster rounded up a few of Twitter’s biggest homemade stars – and things quickly turned party.
JM
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THE SPOTLIGHT
here, a handful of rollacoaster’s favourite bands shine a light on acts they’re hot for this year. and the nominations are... words Jack Mills toM GreeN of alt-J – aka the Poshest kids of the MercurY PriZe wiNNers aluMNi – chats about a$aP, MaiN attrakioNZ aNd lil b collaborator claMs casiNo. it’s Not a bad call – rollacoaster still hasN’t GotteN over the Producer’s lower-thaN-liMbo bootY track “kissiNG oN MY sYruP”. "i first heard clams casino’s music with the release of his eP rainforest in 2011. around that time i'd started listening to a lot of dubstep, post-dubstep and the like and the track “Natural” from it had me hooked in his particular style of instrumental straight away. it's weird and atmospheric without being too distant, and with good grounding beats. there's a recognisable hip-hop influence there, mixed with his own spin of ambience. he’s been working with a few big names such as lil b and the weeknd, making a name for himself in the last couple of years.”
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JehN, lead siNGer of fire-breathiNG Post-PuNk foursoMe savaGes, talks about atMosPheric ParisiaN iNdie claN fauve. “i first heard about fauve a few months ago when my partner Johnny hostile called me from Paris to say he went to a gig at [rock venue] le Pop in, but couldn't get in. 100 excited, young, dancing french kids were there, packing the place up. it's been a long time coming, but at last france is waking up from its sleep. when we left to england seven years ago, it seemed there was no underground in france, nobody was doing anything new and exciting; the diY was dead. london was the place to be for young people looking for adventure. we thought: ‘that's it, the flag is furled, let's get out of here.’ fauve are part of this new rising generation, started by artists like lescoP, la femme, who decided it was time to revive the young flame of french pop. how exciting! fauve have a good sense of contrast, which i think lacks in a lot of young bands today. they also like interesting collaborations (they worked with a french erotic fanzine called irène in producing a couple of music videos) and most of all, they actually say something, they care about having a message.”
New York’s Ms Mr, who last Year becaMe the first baNd ever to release Music (their debut eP, caNdY bar creeP show) exclusivelY via tuMblr, returNed this Year with lP secoNdhaNd raPture. the baNd throw soMe love fellow sYNthPoP duo haerts’s waY. “Music is in an incredible place right now and there are tonnes of acts we're looking forward to hearing more from this year. haerts is one of our personal favorites - they're fellow New Yorkers [by way of Germany] who create lush, atmospheric pop gold. their vocalist Nini is particularly exceptional, with comparisons ranging from stevie Nicks to Madonna. songs like “all the days” and “wings” have already garnered them a spot of attention, but we're sure they'll be on everyone’s radar soon and wish them all the best this year.”
chuck d – saY No More. all hail the GraNd hiGh wiZard of bass, beats aNd sociallY coNscious wordsMitherY. as fouNder of exeMPlarY hiP-hoP horde Public eNeMY aNd owNer of slaMJaMZ records, carltoN douGlas rideNhour (reallY) is oNe of rollacoaster’s Go-to iNsPiratioN sources. d talks about croatia-hailiNG collaborator tiJaNa bass, aNd her twisted, exPeriMeNtal raP souNd. “one lady i find intriguing tijana bass. she’s from eastern europe and has been doing hip hop/dance music with us for a while now. the music has a radical, political twist to it – rising up against the former Yugoslavian regime, and the situation that always goes down in eastern europe is a theme running through her music. her femininity is key – she’s a woman who makes dance music with strong political messages. she’s working with some of the best producers out there, like baby dukes. the fact that she’s part of a growing scene in eastern europe is intriguing, and a finger point to the west.”
the first ladY of stadiuM-shudderiNG Power PoP, robYN - who revealed iN NoveMber that she had started work oN a follow-uP to 2010’s excelleNt lP bodY talk – NoMiNates fellow scaNdi chaNteuse Zhala. “Zhala is completing her first album as i´m writing this, the only thing i´ve heard from her is her first single “slippin’ around” and i´m curious to see what she´s up to. to me, you can hear that she is a part of something that has emerged over the last 10 to 15 years in sweden - she´s bringing so much of herself into it. it´s not just her beautiful voice, it´s how she uses it: she´s messing around with it, trying stuff with it, smiling with it, too.”
2012 saw Massachusetts-borN sYNth PoP quiNtet PassioN Pit Gear-chaNGe with soPhoMore lP GossaMer, oNlY to crash headloNG iNto the Nearest barrier wheN lead siNGer Michael aNGelakos was forced to caNcel tour dates shortlY after its release to tackle dePressioN. back oN fiGhtiNG forM, he siNGs the Praises of scotlaNd’s chvrches. “Passion Pit's uk tour was very difficult for me as i don't do very well with changing time zones. that being said, after what must have been a week of touring with them, i was finally able to hear chvrches rehearsing. i'm not a huge revivalist of the 80s, but when artists turn the cold electropop from that decade into emotionally stunning and well-crafted songs weighing heavily on melody, i'm there. Many people do this, few come close to doing it half as well. it's not like trevor horn's on the console here. their production is all hands on deck, rendering sophisticated, honest, and beautiful pop.”
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Meet King Creole, that chicly garbed teddy bear export from Ashley Williams’ sophomore A/W13 showcase. Four different, custom-made bear clutches were carried by models at her London Fashion Week shows in February, accompanying a collection coated in sixties rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia and inspired by Elvis (hence Creole’s niche name, which shares the title of a King-starred movie). We grilled the bear on his penchant for cocktails, checks and catwalks.
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Hi Creole – you’re looking dazzling. How’s the post-LFW hangover? I’m furry good. Thank you. Any catwalking tips? Contrary to popular belief, no one wants to see a drunken mess on the runway - even if you’re being carried. What’s your pre-show cocktail of choice? A fine Shirley Temple. Where do you summer? I’m half polar bear and half black bear - so I only vacation in the North Pole or North America. Where will you be stocked? I’m setting up shop at MachineA in London, and Joyce in Hong Kong.
Photographer MATT HOLYOAK Art director THOMAS PETHERWICK
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Thanks Croele. We’ll leave you with this Courtney Love quote: “I don’t mean to be a diva, but some days you wake up and you’re Barbra Streisand.” JM
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Into suits, kilts, or bovver boots? Rollacoaster pays a visit to the studios of four designers redefining the modern man, as they prepare for London Collections: Men
It all started with puppies. Well, sort of. Joseph Turvey technically started with broderie anglaise suiting at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, and before that was an internship with Katie Eary (“the best thing I’ve done, she’s just a nice person”). But last season, Fashion East fairy godmother Lulu Kennedy blessed Turvey with Dalmation pups, and it all came together. “The first time I showed with [Fashion East] I couldn’t believe the amount of people who came,” Turvey giggles over the phone. S/S14 marks the label’s second appearance at the Fashion East installations. “It’s a really great platform for young designers to get their message and name out there.” Turvey makes it clear there will be no live animals this season - though they aren’t completely off the agenda. “There could be monkey prints,” he lets on, revealing his S/S14 inspirations: NASCAR racers Ethel Mobley and her brother Tim Flock, who famously competed with his monkey sidekick, Jocko Flocko. “It started as the sister because she was one of the first female [NASCAR] drivers,” he continues. “And that’s when I found this family. They were perfect for me. They’re a bit crazy; I like a little bit crazy.” Don’t we all?
Photography RORY DCS . Fashion JAYSON HINDLEY . Words ZOE WHITFIELD
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Photography RORY DCS . Fashion JAYSON HINDLEY . Words ZOE WHITFIELD
“It’s quite surreal,” Alan Taylor confesses on the eve of his first MAN season. No wonder he’s feeling déjà vu: his first internship was at a Fashion East show for David David. From there, he cut his teeth interning for McQueen and wrapped up a three season stint with Simone Rocha before launching his own label in 2011. “It’s always been the idea to start my first show with MAN, so I’m on track.” Never one for flashy, brash newness, Taylor’s more interested in evolving his themes between seasons. “I don’t abandon what I’ve done,” he explains. His A/W13 theory on the fourth dimension carries through to S/S14, with Francis Bacon and photographer Ryan McGinley making appearances on his moodboard. “A lot of my inspiration isn’t taken directly,” he says. “It’s the mood evoked in the viewer. That’s what I try and get across.” Taylor’s strength lies in his laser-sharp focus on good design, not just good menswear (he studied womenswear for his BA). “I don’t see it as you can be better at one or the other. I see it as you’re good at designer, you’re good at both.”
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MATTHEW MILLER
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Not everyone gets into fashion for pretty frocks and glamour. According to Matthew Miller, questions of identity and its “perception by third parties” were his reasons for entering the industry. “I used to design for a very particular man,” he explains, “but that has slowly evolved into designing for a subculture that has emerged in the last five years. A generation, my generation.” It’s a vision for both boys and girls. Since his days showing with MAN, the Stoke-on-Trent native has joined the growing list of menswear designers mixing it up with the addition of womenswear. “I just think seeing 20 men walking down one after the other can be quite repetitive,” he tells us. “I do appreciate repetition, but if it’s not done correctly it can come across as being quite boring.” Look out for the dynamic to continue with Miller’s S/S14 collection, “Radical Protoypes”. “It’s a manifesto for design and you - I’m really excited about this season,” he says. Miller’s got good reason to be, too - the label’s stockists have tripled since its London Collections debut. “I’d like to see Dover Street, Liberty or Matches pick up S/S14,” he says hopefully. As would we, Mr Miller.
Photography MM . Fashion JAYSON HINDLEY . Words ZOE WHITFIELD
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Photography GEMMA BONER . Fashion JAYSON HINDLEY . Words ZOE WHITFIELD
“When you think about it, it was crazy that an international fashion capital such as London was so underrepresented in menswear,” Gordon Richardson says, musing on the eve of London Collections’ first anniversary. “Now we have something the world can take notice of.” Richardson’s right, of course - but then again, he’s Creative Director of Topman Design, one of the biggest menswear brands on the British high street. Anything other than professional pride would be suspect. “London Collections is a such a positive representation of all that makes up the fabric of our strong cultural fashion roots,” he enthuses, “from Savile Row tailoring to young dynamic street fashion, all under one moniker.” Seriously, could he sum it up any better? For S/S14, Richardson and his team of designers dreamed up the collection as a “post-punk London meets Nashville” line. Don’t worry if that seems a little obscure - oblique references aside, Richardson promises the Topman Design trademark will be on display (he defines it as “simple, desirable, accessible clothes for the fashionable male”). Last season, that translated as thickly layered block colours - maybe this time, we’ll see a tartan and plaid mash-up? Hold onto your hats.
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HOOD RICH Burberry’s new hooded, black bonded duffle coat is like climbing into the back seat of a Porsche and feeling out its hot, velvety cabin. Trends rarely come as broody as this. Dive right in
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Black bonded wool duffle coat Black mohair trousers Dark brown calfskin abstract animal print Chelsea boots Acetate animal print frame sunglasses The Boston in pale camel spotted animal print calfskin with leather trim Pale camel calfskin spotted animal print small satchel Camel calfskin spotted animal print tote bag All clothes and accessories by BURBERRY PRORSUM
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Photography NICK HADDOW Fashion ANDREW DAVIS Hair KEN OROURKE Make-up KAY MONTANO Model MATT BENSTEAD at MODELS 1
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“SINGER SONGWRITER WITH BITE” THE INDEPENDENT
THE DEBUT ALBUM FROM THE BRITS CRITICS’ CHOICE AWARD WINNER 2013
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FABRIC Photography RHYS FRAMPTON Fashion ANDREW DAVIS
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JOSHUA Blue denim boiler suit by Christian LaCroix
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DANNY Denim painted jacket and jeans by VERSACE Black t-shirt by SUNSPEL Black leather trainers by KRiS VAN ASSChE
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SYLVESTER Blue embellished denim jacket by DSquAreD2 Blue denim jeans by DSquAreD2
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VAL Blue denim fur-lined jacket by Dolce & GaBBana (worn inside out) all jewellery by Topman
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DECLAN Grey denim jacket by John VarVatos Black vest by topman customised with gaffer tape Black denim jeans by sisley Black chain necklace by topman
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DIXON blue marine denim biker jacket by DIoR Homme (worn inside out) blue marine cotton shirt by DIoR Homme silver badges by mR bunny
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Photography assistants Rob PaRkeR eamonn FReel & Issac Dann Digital operator JulIa eskell Fashion assistants sam caRDeR, JaDe FInnan & Itunu oke Hair by lee macHIn makeup by tanIa GRIeR models JosHua at amck Danny at D1 sylvesteR at Fm val at D1 Declan at amck DIxon at moDels 1 DanIel at elIte tommy at elIte
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black crinoline top by craig greeN, black starry shorts by bobby abley
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Navy and white jumper by MaisoN MartiN Margiela, bracelets by shaMballa, black tracksuit trousers in polyamide and cotton fleece and black leather trainers both by Kris VaN assche
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F A C T O R Y Photography siMoN bocKer Morch
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Fashion aNDreW DaVis
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Black cropped knit by Comme des garCon Homme a/W 1983, black felt trousers and black leather belt by dolCe and gaBBanna bracelets by sHamBalla
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Multi-coloured knitted Merino Wool jumper by RICHARD JAMES
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Yellow deco shirt by RiveR island, black/grey wallpaper jacquard trousers by e.TauTz bracelets by shamballa
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Off white ruched neck top by J.W. andeRsOn, black trousers by lOuis vuiTTOn
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Printed blue jersey with white cotton shirt insert by Kris Van assche, blue kilt by Moncler and brown brogues by dolce and GaBBanna and socks from The arndale shoPPinG cenTre, Manchester
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Blue leather jacket, yellow/black/brown dog tooth trousers, camel cashmere knit and black leather shoes all by Prada. all socks as before
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A/W13 Photographic assistant Laura CouLson Fashion assistants - sam Carder and Jade Finnan Grooming - Chris sweeney models - sasCha at storm modeL manaGement adam at m&P modeLs Black knitted jumper with leather motif, black trench coat and black suede timberland boots all matthew miLLer
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! Photography NEIL BEDFORD Fashion ANDREW DAVIS Play the birthday boy in black, white and Hugo Boss red as HUGO celebrates its 20th anniversary this season
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20th anniversary collection HUGO, HUGO BOSS A/W13
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20th anniversary collection HUGO, HUGO BOSS A/W13
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All clothes by HUGO, HUGO BOss A/W13 Photographic assistants CHris rHOdes & KAlil MUsA Fashion assistant JAde FinnAn Grooming liAM CUrrAn Model dixOn at MOdels 1
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Nick wears burgundy parka coat by MartiNe rose Nehemiah wears orange denim jeans by ck jeaNs sarah wears multi colour beer mat bomber by MartiNe rose White denim shorts from river islaNd
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Nick wears burgundy parka coat by MARtINE ROSE Navy blue chinos from tOPMAN White socks from AMERICAN APPAREL Blue suede trainers by VANS
Photography FELIX COOPER Fashion SAM CARDER
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Sarah wears green checked shirt by Shaun SamSon Pearl hair tie by Chanel
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Nick wears black wool cashmere coat with red panels by AlexANder McQueeN Navy blue chinos from TopMAN White socks from AMericAN AppArel Blue suede trainers by VANs underwear by GAp
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Nick wears burgundy wool gilet by CalviN KleiN Underwear from Gap Navy blue chinos from tOpmaN Watch model’s own
Nehemiah wears blue denim jeans by CK jeaNs White underwear from FRUit OF tHe lOOm Holds white t-shirt from ameRiCaN appaRel
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sarah wears nude polyester top by simONe ROCHa Black denim shorts from RiveR islaNd
Nick wears blue striped cotton coat by Umit BeNaN Blue denim jeans RiveR islaNd Underwear from Gap Belt model’s own sarah wears green checked shirt and red checked shirt worn around waist both by sHaUN samsON
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PHOTOGRAPHER DOUG INGLUSH
FASHION ANDREW DAVIS
Sarah wears black gabardine trench coat by CELINE
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Eye print top and skirt by KENZO Jewellery by DELFINA DELETTREZ (worn throughout)
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texture top by sANdRo
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Meet Arlissa: the half-Cajun, half-German 20-year-old who's set Roc Nation alight with her stadium-filling voice. Just don’t call her an R&B singer Photography LiAM WARWiCk Fashion MAdeLeiNe ØstLie
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If you want to imagine Arlissa, picture a 5ft 9in exAbercrombie model trying to walk through a Louisiana swamp. This was the situation Arlissa (“it’s Ar-lee-sa”) found herself in on the set of her first video. The swamp in question? Think the gator-ridden bog from Beasts Of The Southern Wild and you’re not far off. “Some locals were like, ‘We swim in there all the time,’” she says. “I put one foot in it and was like, ‘Aaah! I can’t do this!’” Not that her fear shows. In the “Sticks and Stones” video, the south Londoner is a bewitching force of nature: all teased hair and gold chains draped over attenuated limbs, topped off with a voice that invokes Florence Welch in the early days, before her folksy grit was polished into stadium-filling bluster. Think Kate Bush in Aaliyah’s body, throw in some Crystal Fightersesque tribal drumming and you’re halfway there. Shooting music videos and wading through swamps is a long way off from the three years she spent working Abercrombie & Fitch shifts to cobble together money for studio time. The American chain operates on a looksbased hierarchy: namely, hotties out front and uglies in the back. Arlissa, if you can believe it, was generally in “the middle room”. “Management care so much about how you look, but they get away with it because they hire you as models,”
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she says. “Working there made me feel shit about how I looked.” As a teen, Arlissa decided early on to “ditch the whole university experience” for “singing, acting, media in general”. There’s a drama scholarship at Royal Holloway waiting for her if music doesn’t work out, and observant football fans can spot her chowing down on a french fry in a McDonald’s World Cup advert. She wrote her first song at 14 (“stupid love songs, little stories; I liked Regina Spektor so I tried to channel that”). Then tragedy struck - or inspiration, whichever. Arlissa found herself embroiled in the kind of situation that songwriters can mine for years: teenage love, Alicia Keys-style. “We had such a rocky three years together,” she says, but diplomatically refuses to elaborate. Out went the twee, plinky-plonky Spektor tracks. “That relationship made me who I am now. I know how you should be and shouldn’t be treated,” she says. “When I poured my heart out, that’s when the album songs started coming out. So I don’t regret it one bit.” The tracks caught the eye of ex-All Saints label London Records, who staked a brief claim on her before the big dogs came in: namely, Roc Nation’s Joe Brown, who signed her on the spot. Cue hysterical Daily Mail headline: “English singer Arlissa set to follow in footsteps of Rihanna!” And all before she’d even released an EP - not that that minor detail stopped her from landing on the BBC Sound of 2013 list. “My stuff just isn’t like Rihanna’s!” she laughs. Well, she did duet with Nas when she was 19. The track, “How To Love Somebody”, prompted Nigel Harding, the Radio 1 music policy exec, to tweet: “A star is born.” And he wasn’t talking about Nasty Nas. Not bad work, especially given the late, great Amy Winehouse is the only other British singer Nas has ever worked with. “But,” as Arlissa points out sagely, “no one said Dido was a rap artist when she sang with Eminem.” With the Roc Nation tag and her model agency-approved looks (signed to Next, if you want to know), Arlissa will probably have to fight the Rihanna comparisons to the death. But really, her allegiances lie with heart-on-sleeve singers like Florence and Bat For Lashes: big, superemosh balladeers with one foot steeped in mysticism and the other tapping out a nature goddess voodoo beat. In an age of lifeless sub-will.i.am dance tunes, god knows we need more of that kind of magic. Arlissa taps the delicate bird tattoo on her hand. “I got that after I left Abercrombie.” It looks like a swallow, we say. “It’s not!” she hoots, blaming a bad tattoo artist. “It’s a skylark, I promise! It’s a Native American symbol to stay true to yourself.” No problems there, obviously.
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Tinie Tempah is content in the knowledge that most people will think that his album, Demonstration – September’s follow-up to his double platinum-selling debut, DiscOvery – is politically charged, perhaps even a thinly-veiled nod to last summer’s riots in London (his It Takes a Nation of Millions, or something – spurred on by the album’s racy looking sleeve depicting a graffiti-esque paint spray covering Tempah’s eyes). But, as it transpires after waiting for Tempah – born Patrick Okogwu – to peel off the transparent PVC Wa Nylon trench coat we’d draped him in, he’s a touch too squeaky clean for the doomy old world of “glocal” politics.
Olympics closing, awards juggling, charts saturating hip-pop overlord Tinie Tempah isn’t one for resting on his laurels – especially when he’s got a smash hit debut record to better. He tells Jack Mills what it means to be one of pop’s smartest and most sartorially savvy entrepreneurs
In fact, after a lengthy screening of Perez scoops, “behindclosed-doors” VEVO clips and T4 interviews, it’s clear that Tempah is all he seems to be: a levelheaded, humble, businessminded pop star with his sights set on a wholesale domination of the music charts (forget Tulisaesque drugs busts or Delevingne dope-bag blunders with this one – rumours of flings with popstrels Rita Ora and Jessie J aside, the rapper’s Mail Online presence shines bright like his moonlit Jordan Infrareds).
Staying this aloof can’t be easy, especially after performing as part of August 2012’s Olympics Closing Ceremony. Before rapping along to his biggest hit, “Written in the Stars,” Tempah bowled onstage in an open-top Rolls Royce, surrounded by hyperactive voguers and, eventually, the Spice Girls. “It’s a memory I cherish very, very dearly and hold very close. We were doing the rehearsal, and the Girls were onstage too. I can see David Beckham holding his daughter up in the crowd. I was sitting in the Rolls thinking, ‘That’s David actual Beckham.’ No artist will deny that the more opportunities like that come your way, the more it reaffirms your confidence, and makes you think: ‘Maybe I’ve gotten to a stage now where people do do things like this.’”
Raised on the Aylesbury Estate – an infamous nihilist’s breeding ground in south London that former Prime Minister Tony Blair once visited to look urbane and working class – Tempah spent most of his youth wired into some of the many grime and UK garage pirate radio stations emanating from the rooftops of Tower Hamlets. The most famous of all, the now licensed Rinse FM, introduced him to an artist he crowns his spiritual mentor. “The person I wanted to be like was Dizzee Rascal. He made that transition from underground MCing to not only chart success in the UK but the rest of the world, kind of consolidating his position as a British artist regardless of the genre he belongs to.”
Demonstration, then, is more than just a title: it’s Tempah’s self-made mantra. It signifies all that Dizzee made possible to him as an airwave hacking pre-teen. His sophomore effort, on which Dizzee guest spots, is his turn to show the world what he’s made of. “I started listening to Dizzee when I was 12, and now I’m 24 – I’m guessing there’s a 12-year-old kid listening to me now, thinking, ‘Not only do I want to be an MC, but all these other things I see Tinie do, too’. I want to be exactly that.” And what about all these “other things”? For one, Tinie is a sought-after fashion brand affiliate. In March, he was picked by UK label Grey London to part of a “Fashion Royalty” shoot that celebrates entries on
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enjoy watching and studying.” “Studying” was a word that popped up more than once at Tinie’s Rollacoaster shoot. So humble is the lyricist despite his chart successes (remember Disc-Overy’s breakout smash “Pass Out”, which Tinie performed with Snoop Lion at Glastonbury 2010? Sorry, of course you do, it’s still on rotation over at Radio 1…) and accolades, that he habitually catalyses questions of his galloping worldwide fame into “Jenny from the Block”esque retorts. “I feel that I’m very much still studying this whole craft; the music industry. I have no ego when it comes to this. I’m always watching people – and if they’re doing something right, I want to know how it’s done.”
the Sunday Times’ annual Best Dressed rundown. His cohorts on the list of three? Victoria Beckham and Kate Moss, duh. Amongst dozens of sponsorship deals with labels including ASOS, Nike and his own menswear and record flagship Disturbing London, which he started in 2008 with his cousin and manager Dumi Oburota. Oh, and then there’s the GQ awards he amassed at the end of last year – Solo Artist of the Year and Best Dressed Male. “It feels great to get a sort of stamp of approval from people in that kind of world. The night was just so different, very glamourous. I love the glitz, I like that everybody came out for it – Bono was there, Kylie Minogue, actors, businessmen.”
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But will Demonstration near the heights of Disc-Overy’s “…Stars” – a sticky, glorious melody that seems to have come to crystallise the kind of iPhone speaker-friendly disco pop born for spoonfuls of airplay? With a Diplo-produced track confirmed for the album, Tinie is certain he’s given it his best shot. “He got in contact with me after I’d met him a few times at parties in LA. I plucked up the courage to tell him I’d love to work with him. He sent a whole bunch of different tracks and heard the skeleton of what eventually became ‘Trampoline’.” But Dip wasn’t even on his shortlist of dream collaborators before it came up. “I’d love to work with [French house producer] Madeon, Crystal Castles or Haim. Especially Haim. I love their energy and what they represent - it’s dope. They’re just three different, pretty girls who crowd surf.”
With a hitlist as genre-panning as that (he has also spoken of fantasy collabs with James Blake, Drake and Sleigh Bells), who knows quite where the project is headed? “I won’t reveal too much. I want people to think And will he be rinsing the London Collection: Mens ‘interesting – I didn’t expect that.’” We’re sure shows and after parties, feeding his fascination Tempah – the politest man of hip-hop – gets a with emergent designing talent? He’ll be roaming lot of that. like a Metallica turbofan who snuck backstage at Lollapalooza, basically. “In terms of men’s designers, I love Christopher Raeburn, Lee Roach, Adrien Sauvage, Richard James – there are so many amazing Brits that I
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Sweatshirt and trousers by NEIL BARRETT
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Black rollneck by DIOR HOMME White shirt by COMME DES GARCONS A/W 1983
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Grey and navy wool knit polo with white “trigonometric” motif by DIOR Set design THOMAS PETHERICK Photographic assistants PHILLIP BANKS and JAMES AUTON Retouching VANESSA MERRILL Fashion assistants SAM CARDER, JADE FINNAN and ITUNU OKE Skin LIAM CURRAN using L’OREAL MEN Expert Hair DELE using KMS California
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Photography DANIELLE LEVITT Fashion ANNA TREVELYAN
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Both wear denim jeans by Superdry
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Nude bra with lace detail by La PerLa Blue denim jeans by GaP
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Produced by StePhanie Porto hair by Kunio KohzaKi Makeup by taMah KrinSKy Prop styling by tara Marino at BarePS.coM and Julie holliS FeldMan at JholliSStyleS.coM casting by heather SchwalB Models india Menuez Jared oPPenheiMer allanah Farrell Marion laSSerre Kat GJoni JoShua Petry
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Tarik wears black shorts with white stripes by AQUA Tyler wears blue shorts by RICHARD JAMES Tarik wears cycling shorts and bag both by LOUIS VUITTON Lukas wears patterned shorts by DOLCE & GABBANA Tarik and Tyler wear patterned trunks by SPEEDO
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Tarik wears brown patterned shorts by MISSONI Lukas wears pink shorts by RALPH LAUREN Tyler wears patterned shorts by SPEEDO Tarik wears blue and black trucks by SPEEDO
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Models TARIK at SUCCESS PARIS, TYLER at PRM, LUKAS at ELITE Fashion assistant SAM CARDER Shot on the private beach at www.sripanwa.com
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CABARET VOLTAIRE airy drop stitches, camel prints, lace fur, leather and rubber cuts mark 2013’s winter wardrobe. So dim the lights, set the player to baroque, slowjam nineties r&b and get down with the dingy
Giant drop stitch knit by SiblinG Trousers by DrieS Van noTen brown boots by DrieS Van noTen
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Burgundy classic roundneck jumper Pink double collared cotton shirt Jacquard sleeveless jumper Burgundy suit trousers All by RAf SimonS
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Camel translucent rubber trench coat Camel heart print linen placket shirt Black carrot leg trousers All by BurBerry Prorsum
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Turquoise knitted jumper Red cotton shirt Beige/brown dogstooth trousers Red leather belt All by PRAdA
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Lace fur jumper dress by ELEna CrEhan Black boots by raf SimonS Photographic assistant - PiErrE-LUC moiSan fashion assistants - Sam CarDEr and GiULia oDDi Set designer - ZEna hEnDriCK Grooming - ChriS SWEEnEY model - aLmanTaS at ELiTE
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T H E R I O T S Q U A D The rules are there ain’t no rules: introducing New York City’s newest, snarkiest wave of power chord chiming punk rockers. Leave your gob at the door Photography SAMANTHA CASoLARI Fashion RIkA WATANABE Words GIovANNA MASELLI
G H X S T Shelley X and her bleached, brooded-out gang are better known on the New York dive bar circuit as GHXST. Here, they discuss all things “doom grunge.” 82
Formed in 2010 by mysteriouslynamed vocalist Shelley X, guitarist Chris Wild and drummer Nathan La Guerra, GHXST describe their sound as “doom grunge”. “Doom as a genre — for us at least — refers to the hidden violence and magic of the collective unconscious,” says Shelley. “The best nineties alternative culture had a transgressive, wild energy that we’re always attracted to: rock ‘n’ roll isn’t good unless it’s a little destructive.” The darklydressed trio label the likes of Rob Zombie (they’ve covered his 1998 single “Dragula”), Sonic Youth and the Jesus and Mary Chain as benchmark influences. “Chris and I write everything together: the process kind of feels like making movies, or mutual dreaming.” And in Evilwickeddesire, their 2011-released amalgam of EPs No Rest for the Wicked and the selfproduced Evil’s Wasted on You, dreamy (or, perhaps, nightmarish) qualities abound. Certainly, Shelley’s goth-punk chord progressions and desperate mic murmurs in newest single “Black Camero” are like a dopedon-diazepam Shirley Manson. Shelley wears jacket by JuNYA WATANABE Necklace MIRACLE ICoNS Shirt Shelley’s own Jeans by NoBoDY Chris, right, wears jacket by STuSSY Hoodie by RICk oWENS Glasses by RICk oWENS Shoes vINTAGE Jeans by kSuBI Nathan, left, wears t-shirt by AMERICAN APPAREL Jacket by BLk DENIM Sweatpants by RICk oWENS
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D R O W N E R S Trust Brooklyn brethren Drowners to keep their PMA intact: the band’s melody driven summer-punk anthems are bound for the big stage. Singer-songwriter Matthew Hills fled Wales for New York City in 2011 to build a band. Drowners, his four-strong, pogo-ing pop punk outfit, formed a year later. “My music projects were kind of phasing out, I needed a fresh start,” he says. “Moving across the planet to start something new sounded like a good idea at the time.” Now only 12 months old, Drowners — a title pilfered from Suede’s 1994 debut single — have already secured support slots with The Vaccines, a band who share their sense of wave-cresting enthusiasm doused in serotonin. “I try to mix aggression and melody, in a way that I think The Buzzcocks and The Replacements did: kind of punk attitude merged with beautiful songs and lyrics”. The band – whose debut EP Between Us Girls was released in March on ex-Kaiser Chiefs drummer Nick Hodgson’s label, Birthday Records – have secured a labelhome, New York’s French Kiss, for an LP release later this year. Hill claims that hard work and positivity has been key to their early success. “I know from being in bands in the past; if you’re lazy, nothing happens. I try to be really proactive in terms of writing; putting stuff out there, not wasting time.” But will the full length follow in the EP’s blissed-out, melodic footsteps? Hill suggests the band have been upping the ante. “Post-punk has a lot of influence on our music of late; a mixture of aggression and speed.” Hold tight, then.
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U N S T O P P A B L E D E A T H M A C H I N E S OI! OI! OI! Queens-born brothers Unstoppable Death Machines explain how “twinergy” drives their righteous garage punk sound. “A good friend of ours is a bipolar schizophrenic. Before he was committed to a mental health clinic, he kept on repeating to us, ‘You’re unstoppable death machines, goddamnit,’ like a broken record,” say brothers Mike and Billy Tucci of the moment they coined their newest band name. “Our friend and NYC artist Ian Hellwig calls it twinergy,” Billy continues. “Our brains are somehow wired together. We want our music to reflect the times we live in, but also our lifespan: experiences, ordeals, triumphs, set backs, and milestones.” Starting out as an improvisational noise rock band in Brooklyn’s underground gig scene, Unstoppable Death Machines is now a far more streamlined, scuzzpunk affair. Single “Once In a Lifetime,” from debut album We Come In Peace, is a speedy, attitudinal sugar rush recalling early nineties Cali acts Rancid and NOFX – minus, perhaps surprisingly, their penchant for onstage meltdowns and destruction. “We don’t break anything on purpose. The only thing that we try to destroy is people’s egos and inhibitions. “If you feel like dancing, dance. If you want to crowd surf, jump on stage and take a dive. A show is not just about the performer. It’s about everyone in the room.”
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Be afraid… Cerebral Ballzy is one of New York’s most hedonistic, unpredictable bands. With hard hats and gum shields firmly fastened in, Rollacoaster learns why.
Cerebral Ballzy – a hell-raising quintet from Brooklyn – didn’t start life as a band. “We were just a crew of kids who partied and skated together,” explains bassist Melvin Honore. “The band formed as a result of us wanting to throw our own parties. Cerebral, just like punk rock itself, has always thrived on individuality.” Certainly, the 2008-born troupe’s lyrical content (topics include pizza eating, non-stop skateboarding, underage drinking and cutting school) echoes this sense of unruly twenteen abandon. So does their sound – a
thrashy, pedal to the metal speed punk, grounded by vocalist Honor Titus’ bracing growl. With a string of live dates planned (including two in the UK), a debut album to record and a single release (titled “City’s Girl”) pegged for this summer on Dave Sitek’s Federal Prism label, the band are set for one hell of a spring break. Just don’t get in their way.
From left: Jason wears trousers by LEVI'S Shoes by VANS Shirt by HUGO BOSS Ring by UGO CACCIATORI Tom wears trousers by CARHARTT Hat by SKULLS BROOKLYN Shoes by VANS Watch by SWATCH Jumper Tom’s own Honor wears jeans by VOLCOM Shoes by VISION STREET WEAR Bracelet by UGO CACCIATORI Shirt, hoodie and jacket Honor’s own Melvin wears trousers by LEVI'S Belt by YVES SAINT LAURENT (Melvin’s own) T-shirt by CALVIN KLEIN Shoes by VANS Jacket by BLK DNM Mason wears jeans VINTAGE Shirt by JOHN VARVATOS Shoes by CONVERSE Jumper by PRADA Watch by BELL & ROSS
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Orange skull bag and chain belt by Ambush (stOcked At mAchine-A) sleeveless shirt by Alex mAttsOn (stOcked At mAchine-A) long sleeved t-shirt by mAisOn mArtin mArgielA shirt around waist by silent by dAmir dOmA ninja turtles pyjamas from dOg tOkyO Jeans by JAmes lOng trainers by nike
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Photo Assistants momoko mAtSuki and mASAki iWASe Fashion Assistants AlFie GArdner, yuki nAkAGAWA and yukA kAto digital operator rie AmAno hair Abe hair Assistant AyA miShiro make up yuki make up Assistant kotomi FukudA retouching VitA-inc Studio lino mediA Pro, tokyo model nAthAliA oliVierA @ brAVo modelS/imG london
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Printed Gilet by AGi & SAm (Stocked At mAchine-A) earrings by AmbuSh (Stocked At mAchine-A) Patchwork Jeans by JunyA WAtAnAbe Jacket by JunyA WAtAnAbe Shirt around waist by kye trainers by nike Shirt by mm6
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Josh Bowman wears polo shirt by LAnVIn
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Photography Doug IngLISh Fashion neIL RoDgeRS & AnDReW DAVIS
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ROLLING Vest by RALPH LAUREN
For someone with a cold this morning, Josh Bowman sure is upbeat. He’s even looking fondly at a few missteps in his IMDB profile, such as a Miley Cyrus movie he did last year that was never released. “There’s a great saying: If you’ve ever tried, ever failed, no matter. Fail better,” he says. Paraphrasing Samuel Beckett, it sheds light on a few of the “stepping stones” that got him to this point: wrapping the second season of hit drama Revenge. Nine months a year Bowman plays Daniel Grayson, a prince among Hamptons folk targeted by the vengeful Emily Thorne (Emily VanCamp) for destroying her father’s life. Failure led him to Hollywood. Before playing the all-American golden boy, the Berkshire-born Brit played professional rugby for Saracens until shoulder injuries had him happily searching for another career. “It was like being in the army,” he says. “It was very regimented and restricting: ‘You can’t do this, you can’t do that.’ And I’ve always been a bit of a nonconformist.” Bowman has an arm-long list of people he’d like to work with. “Spielberg, Danny Boyle, Tarantino…” he rattles off, hinting at the scale of his ambitions before taking a long pause. He’s been distracted by a garden visitor. “Sorry,” he says. “I was looking at a big, yellow butterfly just now. It had a six-inch wingspan. Unbelievable.” Maybe the sighting was a sign of bigger, more illustrious projects to come - or perhaps simply the giddy behaviour of someone who’s excited to be alive. Rollacoaster’s banking on both.
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Paolo Lorenzana
After a false start in the industry, the gifted and optimistic Josh Bowman is out to wipe the slate clean. He chats dream collaborations, butterflies and nonconformity
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Imagine having sex in front of your dad. Who’s also telling you how to do it. It (kind of) happened to New York-born Peter Vack in the family drama Consent, directed by his indie-filmmaker father Ron Brown. But the 26-yearold is sanguine about the experience. “I mean, I don’t look at him and think, ‘There’s my dad directing me in a scene’,” he says. “Telling the story in a good way becomes more important than squeamishness. It’s all pretence, anyway.” And Vack is pretty good at pretence. He was raised on a diet of “show tunes in the car” and trained on soap opera As The World Turns. “It’s a lot like theatre, doing soaps,” he says. “You know, you have to get it all in one take.” Vack cut his teeth on short-lived MTV sitcom I Just Want My Pants Back, where the first episode saw him doing the dirty in a fridge. Now you’ll find him spreading his wings alongside Jean-Claude Van Damme as “a sleazy lowlife loudmouth” in heist movie Swelter and Alan Rickman in CBGB, a celluloid tribute to the American punk club. Vack plays writer Legs McNeil of Punk magazine, “one of the first zines to chronicle the rise of punk culture. “It must be surreal”, he says, “to see this thing you did in an offhand, rebellious way when you were young, being canonised. I think a lot of people are interested in that scene right now.”
Miranda Thompson
Peter Vack wears varsity jacket by LEVI’S VINTAGE
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From soaps to the Sex Pistols, Peter Vack’s short career is already littered with unexpected twists and turns. Not least when he had to simulate sex in front of his director father for his art. Vivre et laisser vivre, and all that
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ROLLING Luke Grimes wears jacket, knit, trousers all BOTTEGA VENETA
We drag Luke Grimes away from his CrossFit workout to talk playing a young, dead-eyed Jim Morrison-esque bloodsucker for a living
Poalo Lorenzana
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For a time, it seemed like the closest Luke Grimes would get to being in the movies was selling popcorn at a movie theatre. “I had been auditioning for a year, three times a week, never getting anything,” he says of life after New York’s American Academy of Dramatic Arts. “I was working at this theatre for minimum wage and at one point, I just couldn’t do it anymore. I took off the work shirt and just left. I never talked to them again. I feel kind of bad about that, but a week later, I found out I got that movie.” That movie was 2006’s All The Boys Love Mandy Lane, a slasher flick with the hormonal teen makeup of The Virgin Suicides. After a couple of independent film roles and two seasons of Brothers & Sisters, he’s gone back to a darker place with True Blood, where he puts his cool, distant demeanour to good use as a vampire in the mould of Jim Morrison. “It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done,” he says of the CrossFit workout he’ll do after he talks to Rollacoaster. “For this True Blood thing, I have to take my shirt off a good deal and you know how the other guys in that show look.” With a spate of films coming up, including a Chloë Sevigny starrer that premiered at SXSW this year, one thing’s for certain: if that movie theatre ever wondered what happened to the employee that disappeared, they’ll know soon enough.
ESCAPOLOGIST
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THE GLAD Jacob Artist wears black cashmere knit by CALVIn KLEIn CoLLECTIon blue jeans by RAG & bonE
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Photography DoUG InGLISH Fashion AnDREW DAVIS
Ditching ballet shoes for the clapper board, Jacob Artist ignored his detractors and headed to LA in his teens. Now he sings, dances and, well, has a ball as part of the Glee set. Regrets? Too few to mention
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ROLLING Cream fine knit polo shirt by BURBERRY PRORSUM
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The escapologisT We drag Luke Grimes away from his CrossFit workout to chat playing a young, dead-eyed Jim Morrisson-esque bloodsucker for a living.
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Camel cashmere knit by PRADA
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At the age of 17, Jacob Artist turned down a place at prestigious dance school Juilliard to move to LA – regardless of the fact that he’d been doing ballet since he was five. “I just had this real passion to pursue acting”, he says. “I couldn’t have gone to school for four years and not tried it. My parents said, ‘Are you sure that you want to do this? You’ve been dancing your whole life!’ But they backed me 100%. I started acting as soon as I got out here. “I was like, ‘I’m not going back until something happens!’ So I did some Nickelodeon shows, and then auditioned for Glee.” Glee. The televisual soulmate for this 20-yearold boy wonder (yes, he sings too). “I never thought singing would be part of my career, so the way that that turned out was pretty insane”, he says. “It’s an actual dream come true.” Artist made his debut in season four as troubled Jake Puckerman, a role he insists is unfamiliar territory. “I wish I could call myself a bad boy!” he says. “I don’t think I really am. Jake can be a little brooding and mysterious and I’m kind of the opposite. I just like having a good time and to laugh my ass off.” Shooting his first feature length, apocalyptic thriller The Philosophers alongside Harry Potter alumna Bonnie Wright was “hands down one of the best experiences I’ve had. Just twenty kids in a brand-new country that none of us had ever been to before”. Next he plays the “nice guy” boyfriend to The Descendants star Shailene Woodley in the Gregg Araki-directed White Bird in a Blizzard. And after that? “I think it would be fun to play a superhero someday. The kid in me would love that; green screen work and flying around. That would probably be the biggest dream.” And dreams, in Artist’s world at least, have a knack of materialising. Praise be.
Miranda Thompson
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The escapologisT We drag Luke Grimes away from his CrossFit workout to chat playing a young, dead-eyed Jim Morrisson-esque bloodsucker for a living.
Multi-stripe knit by JONATHAN SAUNDERS
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ROck LifERS THE 1975 bOaST fRESH-facEd LOOkS, NORTHERN ENgLaNd EaRNESTNESS aNd SONgS abOUT fUckiNg. a cERTifiEd HaT-TRick – bUT wHaT’S THE caTcH? ROLLacOaSTER iNvESTigaTES
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Matt wears white cotton vest by TopMan Leather / wool biker jacket by MaTThew MiLLer Silver chain Matt’s own photographic assistant JaCK DonCaSTer Digital operator eLLioT T wiLCoX Fashion assitant JaDe Finnan Grooming JUn GoTo using KrYoLan & BUMBLe + BUMBLe
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THE 1975
George wears black crinkle pleated satin top with black vinyl sports stripes by CRaiG GReen
adam wears black cotton starry t-shirt by BOBBY aBleY
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When asking mandatory “who inspired you to start a band?” questions, few acts would have the gall to holler back – “My dad!” But then not many of us have parents who hung out with aC/dC in their spare time, as Matt Healy, frontman of Manchester–sprung alt. pop rockers The 1975, explains. “My dad’s mates were rock stars, so i was like ‘Yeah, being in a band’s possible.’” Clad in leather jackets, black ripped jeans and sporting Blade Runner undercuts – “i’m aiming for Pearl Jam!” declares Healy - the quartet certainly look the part. it was august 2012’s intricate eponymous eP sex, however, which truly set them apart. Fusing ambient soundscapes with smooth R&B and effortlessly catchy indie-rock hooks, it’s a difficult opening statement to genre-pigeon hole. Brit pop copyists The 1975 are not. no, for Healy at least the outlook is far more transcendental. “i’m so obsessed with human connection and love and… i want people to feel in love when they listen to our records. everyone thinks being in a band is all about
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meeting Usher [Which we did, it was cool!]. it’s more about the idea that our songs are playing just as two people fall in love… it’s a big deal.” songs “sex” and stand-alone single “Chocolate” evoke the emotional heights of lusty late nights. “We try and be really inspired by our own music,” Healy concedes, sweetly oblivious to how grandiose his statements sound. “We’ve always had this theory that you should try and rip yourself off. We stopped listening to other bands circa a$aP [Rocky’s debut lP] lOnG.live.a$aP.” so how are The 1975 feeling ahead of their sold out UK tour this summer and festival slots alongside the likes of iggy azalea and Kendrick lamar? Just as Healy begins to declare an undying love for lamar, drummer George daniel has dropped to his knees, cigarette in hand, gushing strings of hyperbole about azalea. it’s left to see whether she’ll fall for their charms, but, as it stands, The 1975 have Rollacoaster positively weak at the knee. Words laURa isaBella
Ross wears black knit jumper with leather look panel by RiveR island
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WHITE HEAT Photography NICK HADDOW Fashion ANDREW DAVIS
To celebrate this year’s golf championship at Muirfield, Ralph Lauren - official patron of The Open Championship - offers up an all-American collection that’s more poolside cool than country club
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All clothes by POLO GOLF and RLX GOLF www.ralphlauren.com Photographic assistant - FeLiX COOPeR Grooming - ChARLes DujiC Model - sebAstiAn at sOuL ARtist MAnAGeMent
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The PSv Photography KaRina TWiSS Fashion SiOBhan lyOnS Join Rollacoaster on a morose encounter of the leather-clad kind for a/W13, as it rummages through hedonistic, nigh-on fetishistic ranges from the likes of Chanel, CK and DKny Black bra, suspenders and knickers by Myla Patent thigh-high garters and boots by Chanel Sleeveless black wool and patent coat by Calvin Klein
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Black mesh swimsuit by &other stories Black leather pleated skirt by KtZ Black leather and gold thigh-high boots by casadei Black and gold cuffs by fleet ilya
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Dress with studded collar by moschino
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Bra and knickers by Myla Navy dress by Christopher KaNe patent leather thigh-high garters and boots by ChaNel Navy, black and silver cuff by ChaNel
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Black patent leather posture collar by Atsuko kudo sleeveless navy and blue tube dress by ChristiAn dior thigh-high boots by CAsAdei
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Dress by Versace Thigh-high boots by casaDei Black knickers by DKNY iNTimaTes
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Patent bra and suspender belt by agent Provocateur Black skirt by chanel Black patent garters and boots by chanel
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leather coat by lacosTe black cage boots with buckles Moschino
Photography assistants Jack Wilson & Michael Rudd Fashion assistant abbie baines set design ThoMas PeTheRick set design assistant JenniFeR Geach digital aRTMedia london Retouching diGiTal liGhT hair TeiJi uTsuMi at TeRRie Tanaka ManaGeMenT using buMble & buMble Makeup lauRa doMinique at sTReeTeRs london nails Jessica hoFFMan at caRen using sally hansen Model ZlaTa at iMG Models Production boyd special thanks to biG sky liGhTinG
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monster Going in hard. McQ A/W13
Photography FELIX COOPER
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Fashion MADELEINE ØSTLIE
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All clothes by McQ Hair by KotA Suizu at CAren uSing SHu ueMurA Art of HAir Hair assistant WAtAru SuzuKi Makeup by CeliA Burton at ClM Models KelSeY VAn MooK at iMg, MAX leSter at D1, AleX PB at D1
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HEADS UP Multi-platform artist Tim Furzer’s newest photo series Atheist’s Day Off sees cable lines — dotted around vaulting summit Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro — disappear into thick fog from various disorientating vantage points. The prints make for an unusually spectral, mystical motif. A Bartlett School architecture graduate before moving to Manhattan, Furzer has spent a career examining, mainly through watercolour illustrations, the relationship between physics and natural phenomena. “Normally, I start a painting by taking photos of subjects first,” he tells
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Rollacoaster. “Atheist’s Day Off is unusual for me in that I actually published the photos I took. My focus is always to find the essence of something; to reveal something simple.” Just as the lines — which were recently featured on design site Minimalissimo — appear, fade and finally vanish in the distance, the project as a whole aims to question the fragility of mankind’s belief systems. “The title refers to the question of whether or not we can ever truly remove ourselves from what we believe in, like taking a moral or ethical vacation.” JM Follow Furzer’s work at timfurzer-artist.com.
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P I R E T U I S LETPOKEN IS S T U O W E O H N T T U O FOR DAILY RUMBLINGS FROM WONDERLAND HQ (PLUS NEWS, TRENDS, STYLE & CELEBS) HEAD TO WONDERLANDMAGAZINE.COM BORED OF YOUR FRIENDS? FACEBOOK.COM/WONDERLANDMAGAZINE BE A LEADER AND A FOLLOWER: TWITTER.COM/WONDERLANDMAG
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for stockists visit: w w w. fr ame-denim . com
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