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Jeff Barganier's The Path

Travel Experiences with Jeff Barganier The Path Less Traveled

Discovering Ancient Alabama

The path less traveled always seems to lead to greater discovery. My GPS suggests three roads to my destination, Moundville Archeological Park in West Alabama. I choose the scenic—and, as it turns out, most interesting drive through picturesque countryside, taking me through Selma, Uniontown, Newbern, and Greensboro. Sadly, the once pretty business districts of Selma and Uniontown are deteriorating. But I still prefer this route. Interstate 65 North to Birmingham then west to Tuscaloosa is boring. And Highway 82 straight-up-themiddle is busy and hazardous. Studio; and, like, this was a late eighteen hundred’s bank building that they rebuilt and turned into the library. And then everybody donated books—way more books than we could even use.” I smile, and donate one more, a copy of my novel, Lawson’s Bluff. Then, as recommended, I ease down the street to Newbern Mercantile, established 1926, for a burger, fries and tea. On the way out, I grab a great looking Newbern Mercantile T-shirt.

My first serendipitous surprise in the middle of nowhere is discovering Wayside Bakery. It’s a quarter mile off Alabama 61 just south of Newbern. But I’m too late. They close at noon on Saturdays. Maybe next trip. Farther along, my creative juices are stimulated by the quaint community of Newbern with Ancient Pottery Display its charming and historic structures. In Newbern, I explore “Baby Street” and photograph beautiful old homes, then snap a photo of what appear to be large snakes poking their heads up from the tall grass of a farmer’s field. But I discover they’re only silly geese impersonating snakes. Newbern is famous for its connection to the Auburn University School of Architecture. Students come here to the “Auburn Rural Studio” to create— from whatever materials they can salvage— structures like the fire station across the street from Newbern Mercantile. I stop at the public library where I encounter a bevy of nice ladies and introduce myself as a writer of books. They inform me about what to do and see in Newbern, and what they like about the community. One pretty lady tells me, “I’ve been here about fifteen years and the thing I love about the little town is just the people who live here. They’ve kept it so well. And all these old buildings have been kept up by the Auburn Architectural Rural About half way to Greensboro, I pass boys standing along the road in 90-degree heat, holding signs that invite me to stop for prayer. How refreshing. What the heck. I turn around, go back and get in line. Two ladies and a nice gentleman cover me—and my Archeological Site car—with prayer; Exhibit and send me off with a gift of hand sanitizer, Lysol wipes, and a small metal box containing a pencil and pad. The box is inscribed with the words, “Give it to God.” What a blessing! For certain, I’m on Moundville Archeological Site the path less traveled. But it’s the right path! I enter and peruse the town of Greensboro, County Seat of Hale County. I’m drawn to the green water tower that features a menacing catfish leaping off its side with the message CATFISH CAPITOL OF ALABAMA. Greensboro looks like a town I might like to explore further someday. But I need to keep moving.

Jeff's Prayer Warriors Newbern Library

I’m eager to check out ancient history at Moundville.

I arrive at Moundville early-afternoon. University of Alabama archeology student Declan Smith (from Rhode Island) greets me at the Admissions Center. Senior travel writers pay seven bucks. I watch a super interesting 15-minute film, get a brief orientation about the park, purchase some cold water, and head out to climb the park’s highest mound. Atop the mound, I’m eye to eye with the highest branches of tall oaks. From up here, the park resembles a golf course. Below me, I see a picnic table, hiking trails heading off into the woods, the Admissions Center in the distance, and lower mounds. I’ll bet this place is stunning in the fall during peak leaf season. The park’s road is excellent. I should have brought my bike to get some riding in. But it’d be hot cycling in this weather. I survey the grounds below, trying to visualize thousands of natives going about their lives. How are they dressed? What are they doing? Are they at work or play? And why was this site mostly abandoned by 1350 A.D.? A thousand years ago, a people that archeologists have dubbed “Mississippians” inhabited these three hundred acres. Then one of the largest cities north of Mexico, the Moundville archeological site was populated by about ten thousand people. But all that remains of this mysterious city are twenty-eight earthen mounds located on a bend in the Black Warrior River. In those days, rivers were superhighways used for transporting goods like marine shell from the Gulf of Mexico and copper all the way from the Great Lakes. These materials and others left behind by the Mississippians may be viewed at Moundville’s Jones Museum, a few hundred yards away from where

I stand. Where did the Mississippians go? Did they take a new, less traveled path away from here, or did they merely disperse into numerous lesser tribes? Several modern Southeastern tribes like the Muscogee, Chickasaw and Choctaw believe their ancestors were mound builders, too. So, perhaps the Mississippians are still with us. Maybe they operate casinos and make mounds of Black Warrior River money. Fascinating, isn’t it? I guess we can only speculate. In any event … a Moundville Archeological Park visit would make a wonderful and educational day trip for you and your grandchildren! The Park has a great little coffee shop, an eatery and gift shop. Remember, take the path less traveled. And don’t forget to stop for prayer.

www.moundville.ua.edu Newbern Merchantile Rest Room Plaque

Jeff S. Barganier is a novelist, travel writer and manager of Cindy Barganier Interiors LLC. He travels far and wide upon the slightest excuse for something interesting to write about. Contact: Jeffbarganier@knology.net. Instagram: @jeffbarganier. Visit: www.jeffbarganier.com.