DINING GUIDE Continued from pg 60
chain-link utility belt armed with additional tools of the trade. He skillfully breaks down a cut of grass-fed beef from Double B Ranch out of Perryville, one of the many local farms he sources for pasture-raised animals. Elsewhere in his new full-service butcher shop, his staff preps sausage, braunschweiger and stocks from scratch. $$-$$$
[THE LOOP]
Peacock Loop Diner
Piccadilly at Manhattan
6261 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-721-5555.
The latest feather in Joe Edwards’ (Blueberry Hill, PinUp Bowl) impressively plumed cap, Peacock Loop Diner serves breakfast and lunch staples 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The bright, retro-themed restaurant is outfitted with a dizzying array of 1950s kitsch and boasts a curtained, rotating circular booth called the Carousel of Love. The menu offers everything from omelets and biscuits and gravy to burgers and corn dogs. On the breakfast side, the “Finals Breakfast Sandwich” is a good one: an egg, griddled ham, bacon, sriracha and mixed-berry jam are sandwiched between two malty waffles. Ask for a side of maple syrup, and the dish becomes a quirky take on a Monte Cristo. Another standout is the chicken curry salad melt with Muenster cheese. And don’t leave without trying at least one of the seventeen different varieties of spiked milkshakes. They are break-up cures in a frosty glass. $-$$
7201 Piccadilly Avenue, Maplewood; 314-646-0016.
The Collida family opened the original Piccadilly at Manhattan in the 1920s. Nick and Maggie Collida undertook a major renovation and reopened it in late 2007. The neighborhood spirit remains, friendly and familial, and the food is fun. The fried chicken is very good, and the burger might steal the show: a fat patty (or two), beautifully charred, thicker at the center than around the edges. If barbecue is available, splurge on a half or even a whole slab of meaty baby-back ribs. $-$$
A Pizza Story
7278 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-899-0011.
Salt + Smoke
6525 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-0200. Salt + Smoke infuses the Loop air with the unmistakable smell of barbecue. The scent may draw diners in, but the delectable barbecue taste will keep the crowds coming back for more. The latest venture from restaurateur Tom Schmidt, who first gained acclaim for Soulard’s Franco, Salt + Smoke features Texas-style barbecue, a huge bourbon selection and comprehensive craft-beer offerings. Fried pickles and hush puppies dipped in honey butter are standout appetizers, and the falafel sandwich — though a surprise at a barbecue place — is the closest thing a vegetarian can get to barbecue. St. Louis-cut ribs are dry rubbed and fall off the bone. Those who order the brisket are given the option of the fatty part, the lean part or the burnt end. The lean part is tender and needs no sauce. The thicksliced smoked bologna, flecked with fat, jalapeños and
Salt + Smoke. | JENNIFER SILVERBERG cheddar cheese, is more like salami than the thin-sliced Oscar Mayer deli slices. Be forewarned: A little goes a long way. Salt + Smoke offers thoughtful side dishes like white-cheddar-cracker mac & cheese, coleslaw tossed with apples and fennel, and sweet creamed corn. And make sure to save room for the chocolate pie. The flaky crust and bittersweet pudding-like filling make it an excellent ending to a great meal. $$
[MAPLEWOOD]
Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions 2810 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood, 314-647-2567.
On a typical day at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, chef Chris Bolyard wields a sharp boning knife from a trusty
Huhammad Alwagheri, Sherif Nasser and Nael Saad didn’t set out to open a restaurant. The three Washington University academics just loved food. But at dinner parties, the conversation would quickly turn to: “What if we opened a restaurant?” The three finally took the leap and opened A Pizza Story in downtown Maplewood. The Neapolitan-style pizzeria serves classic wood-fired pies, like the Margherita, which simply consists of perfectly charred crust, fresh tomato sauce, basil and mozzarella cheese. Heat-seeking meat eaters should try the “Thriller”: Its fiery capicola, spicy tomato sauce and caramelized onions make for a satisfying meal. Though the restaurant is called A Pizza Story, other menu offerings take a starring role: A salad of arugula and beets pairs perfectly with goat cheese and lemon vinaigrette. The two pastas, shells ragu and fettuccine all’amatriciana are lightly sauced and full of meat: The ragu is like beef stew over shell-shaped pasta, and the fettuccine is simply heaped with pancetta. Save room for the creamy tiramisu — one of the best versions in town — and housemade gelato. It’s a sweet end to a Neapolitan feast. $$
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MAY 25-31, 2016
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