RIVERFRONT TIMES | A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019
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A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019 | RIVERFRONT TIMES
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TA B L E OF Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Sarah Fenske EDITORIAL Arts & Culture Editor Paul Friswold Music Editor Daniel Hill Digital Editor Jaime Lees Staff Writers Doyle Murphy, Danny Wicentowski Restaurant Critic Cheryl Baehr Editorial Interns Hayley Abshear, Megan Anthony Contributing Writers Mike Appelstein, Allison Babka, Sara Graham, Roy Kasten, Jaime Lees, Joseph Hess, Kevin Korinek, Bob McMahon, Nicholas Phillips, Tef Poe, Christian Schaeffer, Lauren Milford, Thomas Crone, MaryAnn Johanson, Jenn DeRose, Mike Fitzgerald Proofreader Evie Hemphill ART Art Director Evan Sult Contributing Photographers Mabel Suen, Jennifer Silverberg PRODUCTION Production Manager Haimante Germaine MULTIMEDIA ADVERTISING Sales Director Colin Bell Senior Account Executive Cathleen Criswell Account Managers Emily Fear, Jennifer Samuel Multimedia Account Executive Michael Gaines CIRCULATION Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers EUCLID MEDIA GROUP Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein Creative Director Tom Carlson www.euclidmediagroup.com NATIONAL ADVERTISING VMG Advertising 1-888-278-9866, vmgadvertising.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Send address changes to Riverfront Times, 308 N. 21st Street, Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63103. Domestic subscriptions may be purchased for $78/6 months (Missouri residents add $4.74 sales tax) and $156/year (Missouri residents add $9.48 sales tax) for first class. Allow 6-10 days for standard delivery. www.riverfronttimes.com The Riverfront Times is published weekly by Euclid Media Group Verified Audit Member Riverfront Times 308 N. 21st Street, Suite 300, St. Louis, MO 63103 www.riverfronttimes.com General information: 314-754-5966 Fax administrative: 314-754-5955 Fax editorial: 314-754-6416 Founded by Ray Hartmann in 1977
CONTENTS
ST. LOUIS CITY Downtown Lafayette Square/Soulard Benton Park & Its Neighbors Central West End/Cortex Midtown/Grand Center The Grove Shaw/Botanical Heights Dogtown Tower Grove South & East The Hill & Its Neighbors North Hampton/Southampton Cherokee Street South of Meramec North City
ST. LOUIS COUNTY South County Maryland Heights Ferguson/Florissant/Hazelwood Overland /St. Ann Maplewood Kirkwood/Webster Groves Richmond Heights/Brentwood Clayton/Ladue The Loop/University City/Olivette West County
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Cover photo of Lulu’s Local Eatery: J E N N I F E R S I L V E R B E R G RIVERFRONT TIMES | A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019
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A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019 | RIVERFRONT TIMES
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A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019 | RIVERFRONT TIMES
“WHERE SHOULD I GO TO EAT?”
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t’s the question our staff fields more than any other — whether it comes from musicians popping into St. Louis on tour or longtime residents just trying to get out of a dining rut. And for the devoted food lover, the query becomes even more frequent, and critical. Where should I go to eat? isn’t just a practical question. It’s an attempt to make sense of our complicated metro area, a chance to venture outside of routine, an opportunity to try something new and delicious. Our inaugural Food Lover’s Guide is meant to go beyond all those lists of ten or twenty best places to something more useful. After all, if you
The Clover and the Bee
love food, it’s not always about finding the very best restaurant; it’s about finding the best restaurant for the mood you’re in right now. Bosnian in Webster? Taiwanese in U. City? Fast-casual Filipino on South Grand? Whether you want quick and spicy or elegant and hushed, this guide is designed to give you the information you need to find the meal you’ve been craving. Sorted by neighborhood, it contains more than 230 restaurants we’ve personally vetted and are happy to recommend. Maybe you’re not looking for New York-style slices in the Grove at 2 a.m. right now. But when you are, we’ve got you covered. —Sarah Fenske
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Lona’s Lil Eats
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DOWNTOWN Cinder House
999 North Second Street, 314-881-5759 At Cinder House, acclaimed chef Gerard Craft, together with executive sous chef Michael Fricker, has created a menu of dazzling South American-style dishes inspired by Craft’s Brazilian “Dia.” Prawns, soaked in deliciously bitter wood smoke, evoke the grilled sardines she regularly cooked for the Craft family, while “Dia’s Cheese Bread” is paired with country ham and a ramekin of salt-sprinkled lardo. Entrees are one masterpiece after another, with a five-star rendition of feijoada and steaks that are as good as any steakhouse in town. The food is made more thrilling by the stunning setting; the view from the eighth floor of the Four Seasons is simply awe-inspiring. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 6:30 a.m. Rooftop patio opens daily from 11 a.m. to close.
Kimchi Guys
612 North Second Street, 314-766-4456 Located in Laclede’s Landing, the fast-casual Kimchi Guys serves Korean fried chicken, along with dumplings, sandwiches, Korean BBQ bowls and a host of Korean/Mexican fusion items like the “Korrito” (a burrito stuffed with kimchi fried rice plus your choice of protein). Vegans aren’t ignored, with both bowls and “takos” available with “spicy, marinated plant-based chicken.” Thirsty? Kimchi Guys serves not only soda and water, but the Korean beer Hite and soju, the vodka of Korea. $. Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar
1004 Locust Street, 314-241-8141 Bridge offers a laidback dining experience in a stylish downtown space. The two-story upscale hideaway celebrates artisanal beers and wine and craft cocktails. Artsy lighting and a sumptuous wooden bar create a beautiful atmosphere you won’t soon
want to leave. The menu intensely focuses on creative small plates, snacks, charcuterie and cheese, sandwiches, salads and small entrees. The decor, especially the giant bird’s-nest light fixtures, is, frankly, awesome. $$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Rooster
1104 Locust Street, 314-241-8118 This charming daytime cafe offers slingers, scrambles, crepes and some of the city’s best bloody marys. Savory crepes feature both the hearty (“German-style” sausages, bacon, roasted sirloin) and the delicate (Brie with roasted apples, egg with Gruyère). The excellent sweet crêpes run the gamut from a simple lemon crêpe dusted with sugar to the indulgent “Peanut Butter Cup,” which is even richer than its namesake. Expect to wait on the weekends, although the NoWait app will let you cut the line. $. Open daily for breakfast and lunch.
Mango Peruvian
1001 Washington Avenue, 314-621-9993 Now at home in a chic space on Wash Ave, Mango features a broad selection of traditional Peruvian dishes. Ceviche comes with the fish of the day or with shrimp, octopus and mussels. For entrees, saltado de langostinos brings lovely shrimp in an olive oil-white wine reduction, while aji de gallina features a unique blend of chicken, walnut, chiles and cream. Don’t skip out on cocktails; Mango serves sangria, caipirinhas and, of course, pisco sours. $$-$$$. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, with dinner daily. Sidewalk seating.
Kiin Essentially Thai
550 North 7th Street, 314-241-1989 Fork & Stix, located on the edge of the Loop, has long been a destination for local chefs, who rave about its version of the Thai curry soup khao soi. Now you don’t have to drive to Delmar to get it; Kiin Essentially Thai, the attractive full-service restaurant that opened last year in the MX building downtown, has one of Fork & Stix’s owners and much of its menu. That includes not just khao soi and pad
kee mao, but hoy jaw: deep-fried dumplings of pork and shrimp served with sweet chile sauce. Good luck eating just one. $. Open weekdays for lunch and daily for dinner.
Tony’s
410 Market Street, 314-231-7007 You’ll have great food at Tony’s. You’ll eat carpaccio kissed with truffle that melts on the tongue and lingers like a lover’s embrace. You’ll have life-changing risotto or a black-pepperrubbed prime strip steak. There is also great wine, desserts and everything in between. But perhaps Tony’s biggest accomplishment is how even a refined, upscale experience can feel so lighthearted and easy. Servers, assistants and maître d’s have all mastered the art of making every last person feel like a VIP in on a secret as they whisper clever asides to the table or laugh amongst themselves as they prepare the antipasti — in a way that always lets you in on the joke. You feel less like their esteemed guest and more like a friend by the time dinner ends — something you’ll pray never has to happen. $$$$. Open weekdays for lunch and Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Dress code (no shorts).
Broadway Oyster Bar
736 South Broadway, 314-621-8811 A true taste of N’awlins awaits you at this party-time Cajun/Creole dive, housed in a 170-year-old historic building in the shadow of Busch Stadium. Order up a mess of crawfish, fried alligator, jambalaya or gumbo (the house recipe, known as Gumbo Ya Ya, is mixed with shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage), or go for the savory alligator sausage and shrimp cheesecake. True to its name, the eatery offers a wide variety of bivalves, grilled, fried or simply served on the half-shell. The Big Easy ain’t just found in the flavors, though: Broadway Oyster Bar is a great place to see national jazz, blues and zydeco acts seven days a week. $$. Opens daily at 11 a.m., with hours til 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
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bacon-braised Brussels sprouts. Raw bar offerings include a mix of both East and West Coast oysters flown in fresh daily, scallop tartare and a trout caviar. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday; Sunday brunch.
The Wood Shack
1862 South Tenth Street, 314-833-4770 Chef Chris Delgado has imbued his quick-service restaurant with the sort of swagger typically reserved for more upscale establishments. From a cozy space on a tree-lined Soulard street, he’s smoking his own meats and serving top-notch sandwiches including the “Soulard Primer,” a prime-rib sandwich that puts to shame every roast-beef sandwich that came before it. Meanwhile, “Three Cheesy Pigs” is a pork-lover’s dream, pairing peppery, thick-sliced bacon with pulled pork and smoked ham on a French baguette with luscious comte cheese, pickled okra and pungent Champagne mustard. The standout side is the mac and cheese, a velvety concoction of corkscrew noodles and three-cheese sauce, its richness cut with crushed black peppercorns. $. Open daily for lunch, with additional hours every day but Monday. Limited seating inside; picnic tables out front. MABEL SUEN
Bogart’s Smokehouse
Polite Society
The Midwestern Meat & Drink
900 Spruce Street, 314-696-2573 Barbecue is the name of the game at this striking casual spot in the shadow of Busch Stadium. Rising star chef Ben Welch, whose barbecue was named the best in Missouri by Food & Wine, offers a roster of items with a price point appropriate for a pre-game bite, but good enough to bring in people just for dinner. Platters include everything from turkey breast to pastrami, each with two sides of your choice plus cornbread. But it’s not just meat; you can also get sandwiches (including ones with the option of gluten-free bread), roasted beets or a salad. The whiskey list is extensive; unusually for a high-volume restaurant near Busch Stadium, there’s also an excellent roster of cocktails. $-$$. Opens Wednesday through Monday at 11 a.m. Large patio facing the ballpark.
LAFAYETTE SQUARE/ SOULARD Planter’s House
1000 Mississippi Avenue, 314-696-2603 Planter’s House is St. Louis’ temple to the cocktail. Together with his wife and fellow bartender Jamie Kilgore and their partner Ted Charak, acclaimed mixologist Ted Kilgore has parlayed his expertise into the gold standard for bars in St. Louis: friendly staff serving up absolutely terrific cocktails in two
of the handsomest rooms in town. The kitchen, captained by chef Sam Boettler, makes it possible to go to Planter’s House for a dinner of chile-braised lamb or seared duck breast and leave satisfied even without having a cocktail. But this is Planter’s House; why on earth would you want to do that? $$. Patio. Opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden
1200 Russell Boulevard, 314-776-8309 For 41 years, John D. McGurk’s has been giving local bar-goers an authentic taste of Ireland in the midst of St. Louis’ French quarter. Dimly lit and filled with exposed brick and dark wood, McGurk’s sprawling interior offers the preeminent place to experience a pint this side of the Emerald Isle — unless it’s a lovely autumn day, in which case you should enjoy that pint next to the fountain in the stunning courtyard. It’s no wonder Esquire named McGurk’s one of the best bars in America. A full menu of stick-to-your-ribs food offerings pairs perfectly with the environment. $-$$. Gigantic patio. Open daily, but kitchen is closed Monday.
808 Maison
808 Geyer Avenue, 314-594-4505 An elevated menu pairs nicely with a striking space: exposed brick, velvet chairs and bold floral wallpaper, as well as a beautiful mahogany bar. Chef Jon Dreja (best known for Franco) serves up classic French dishes, such as cassoulet, even while experimenting beyond tradition. Escargot are given an unexpected twist with chorizo and caramelized fennel, while the steak comes not only with frites, but also a smoked bone-marrow bearnaise and
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1627 South Ninth Street, 314-621-3107 At Bogart’s, acclaimed pitmaster Skip Steele follows his whims, not others’ rules, and the results are superb. The baby-back ribs are excellent, but venture outside your barbecue comfort zone to try the pastrami or the ethereal smoked prime rib, and you’ll be richly rewarded. The pit-baked beans are the standout side, almost worth a visit all by themselves. $-$$. Opens daily at 10:30 a.m. Picnic seating along the sidewalks.
Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse and Bourbon Bar
2101 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-2333 Hamilton’s is a high-caliber steakhouse, but it has a cozy, neighborhood feel to it — the sort of place you’d go with business partners to celebrate closing a deal rather than the pretentious place you’d take a new client to seal it. Still, the menu hews to the template, with a show-stopping dry-aged ribeye and a terrific Kansas City strip. Unlike the corporate steakhouse chains, Hamilton’s includes your choice of side dish with each steak. Get the roasted-garlic mashed potatoes. When the juice and rendered fat of that ribeye mingle with these garlic-laden beauties, you hear the angels sing. $$$. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Polite Society
1923 Park Avenue, 314-325-2553 At this attractive bar and dining space, you’ll feel like an invited guest in someone’s stylish Lafayette Square home. The menu has as much to offer someone looking for a cocktail and quick bite as someone looking for a multi-course dinner. Add to the mix a thoughtful beverage list and servers who provide easy hospitality and, well, let’s just say that if the world was more like Polite Society, we’d all be the happier for it. $$$. Open daily for dinner, with brunch Saturday and Sunday.
Oaked
1031 Lynch Street, 314-305-8647 Combine good food with a killer wine list and more than 80 bottles of whiskey, and what else could you ever want? Well, how about a supper-club style lounge with a grand piano, perfect for live jazz? Or an upstairs deck perfect for smoking cigars? Or one of the loveliest patios in the city? This Soulard newcomer manages to provide all the above, along with warm service and a price point designed to bring you in for a casual supper, not just special occasions. Opened by two neighborhood couples who longed to create the kind of wine bar they themselves would frequent, Oaked manages to be all that and much, much more. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Patio, cigar-friendly second-floor deck.
Pop
1915 Park Avenue, 314-241-8100 Dave Bailey’s newest spot, St. Louis’ first sparkling bar, promises “all things bubbling, sparkling, bright and fun.” But that’s not all — in addition to a host of Champagnes and sparkling wines, Pop is a full-service restaurant with plates to share (the focaccia is a standout), boards and ambitious entrees, too. Don’t like bubbly? They’ve expanded the definition so you can also enjoy beer and even cocktails, so long as they have a hint of fizz. $$-$$$. Opens at 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Patio.
PW Pizza
2017 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-7799 Prolific Lafayette Square restaurateurs Paul and Wendy Hamilton have many triumphs, but our personal favorite in their collection (Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Vin de Set) is PW Pizza. This cheerful pizzeria may be one of St. Louis’ most underrated eateries — a family-friendly restaurant with a fleet of excellent appetizers, salads, calzones and sandwiches, along with top-tier pizza. Craft beer and wine make it a place for mom and dad, too. $-$$. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
BENTON PARK & ITS NEIGHBORS Sidney Street Cafe
2000 Sidney Street, 314-771-5777 Chef Kevin Nashan’s cuisine is defined less by a particular genre than by a feeling — a sort of refinement of texture and flavor that comes from the hand of a master (is there a better seafood chef in town?). It’s no wonder that he’s achieved national recognition for his work, including the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest in 2017. Sidney Street’s vibe is more romantic than some of its peers in the city’s top echelons, with exposed brick walls, a dark bar and knowledgeable servers who know their way around a wine list. You can get adventurous with an Asian-inflected appetizers from the ever-changing chalkboard list or order a steak with béarnaise. Either way, rest assured it’s been given Nashan’s Midas touch. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 5 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.
Blues City Deli
2438 McNair Avenue, 314-773-8225 Since 2004, owner Vince Valenza has been the de facto ambassador of Benton Park, serving his impossibly good sandwiches to a crowd that turns this little stretch of south city into an impromptu street party any time the weather is good. The restaurant prides itself in having the feel of a “big old house party,” one where you’re likely to find yourself out back playing washers. Beer only. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday, with occasional Thursday night hours. Sidewalk seating.
Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.
1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858 For his sophomore effort, Sidney Street Café executive chef Kevin Nashan transformed the former Niche space in Benton Park into a whitewashed beach shack with the freshest seafood in town. Diners can feast on everything from lobster and crab boils to oyster po’boys to freshly shucked oysters and peel-and-eat shrimp. The restaurant’s signature dish is its lobster roll. Served either Connecticut-style, with drawn butter, or Mainestyle, with mayonnaise, the shockingly fresh meat is wrapped in a bun that is half brioche, half Texas toast. Meat eaters should not shy away from Peacemaker; its brisket sandwich rivals those served at the town’s best smokehouses. Boozy slushies add to the summer vacation vibe. $$$. Open for lunch weekdays and dinner daily.
Cafe Piazza
1900 Arsenal Street, 314-343-0294 Artist Paco Rosic’s spray-painted mural covers the entire ceiling at Cafe Piazza, an eye-popping conversation-starter that depicts St. Louis luminaries in street-art style. The bulk of the menu is made up of pizzas, courtesy of the four-ton deck oven nicknamed “Big Mamma.” The searing hot, woodfired behemoth allows the thin-crust pies to crisp up and get little specks of char around the edges — not quite as extreme as a Neapolitan pie, but approaching it. “Bogart’s BBQ Pizza” is a standout, with succulent pulled pork atop sweet, molasses-y barbecue sauce and just a touch of mozzarella. A solid roster of sandwiches will remind you of the East Coast Italian fare you’d find in a New Jersey diner. Full service; the counter-service Cafe Piazza Now shares an entrance and does a brisk takeout business. $-$$. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, with weekend brunch at 10 a.m.
Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge
1811 Pestalozzi Street, 314-773-8646 Chef/owner Frazer Cameron’s cooking strikes a balance between contemporary style, market freshness and good ol’ American comfort. The regular menu features steak, salmon and other popular dishes, but regulars know to check the chalkboards outside the kitchen for the specials: multiple catches of the day, a king crab boil, pork schnitzel — who knows, really? The cocktail list, too, is endlessly changing, with four seasons’ worth of selections in addition to a roster of classics. And
few places are more fun to drink them Frazer’s bar, which has not only excellent cocktails but a snazzy mid-century modern vibe. $$-$$$. Opens at 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Lona’s Lil Eats
2199 California Avenue, 314-925-8938 Owner Lona Lao hails from the remote southwestern part of China — closer to Laos and Burma than Beijing — and her mother is Thai (her father is part of the ethnic Lao Lao tribe, which boasts a rich barbecue culture). Lona’s Lil Eats draws its inspiration from her paternal heritage, but those other influences are woven wonderfully into its fabric as well. Lao and her husband Pierce Powers opened their fast-casual restaurant in 2014 and have been wowing diners ever since. The menu is simple: dumplings, wraps and plates. But Lao’s flavor combinations are so unique and multi-layered, your mouth will be dancing long after you finish your meal. $-$$. Full bar. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sidewalk seating.
Savage
2655 Ann Avenue, 314-354-8488 Walking into Savage, you immediately recognize that you are in a dining room different than any other in St. Louis — because it’s not a dining room at all. The tasting-menu-only restaurant is almost entirely one big chef’s table; guests sit at grey upholstered stools surrounding a black-topped, three-sided bar. It’s as if chef-owner Logan Ely, who is the restaurant’s sole cook, is on stage, his painstaking preparations a sort of dinner theater. The food here is esoteric and even the twelve-course menu may not be enough to satisfy St. Louis appetites — but if you give in to Ely’s boundary-pushing dishes, you will surely be amazed. As the setting suggests, it’s an experience more than a meal. Reservations are essential. $$$$$. Open Wednesday through Saturday.
Milque Toast Bar
2212 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-833-0085 More an open-faced sandwich shop than a fancy toast spot, this cozy McKinley Heights gem will make a believer out of even the most trend-averse skeptic. Its “spiffy toasts” — slathered with goat cheese and covered with truffled mushrooms, or covered with luscious blue cheese, spiked with Louisiana hot sauce — are simply delicious, with soups, stews and a few sides completing the menu. Smoothies, malts and fun drinks like a hibiscus fizz change with the seasons. $. Opens at 8 a.m., with hours until 6 p.m. on weekdays and 4 p.m. on weekends. Closed Wednesdays.
CENTRAL WEST END/CORTEX Dressel’s Public House
419 North Euclid Avenue, 314-361-1060 One of the city’s most charming pubs, Dressel’s Public House also happens to be serving one of its tastiest food menus, as anyone who’s sampled its
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Yellowbelly
4659 Lindell Boulevard, 314-499-1509 Located in the new, ultra-sleek Citizen Park building on the corner of Lindell and Euclid, Yellowbelly has the feel of a boutique hotel in present-day Waikiki. You could call it “modern Hawaiian chic,” but Yellowbelly is not a Hawaiian restaurant. Instead, it takes the 50th state as a jumping-off point for dishes including tuna poke and spam-and-crab-fried rice. Other offerings have a broader seafood focus, though the burger is also divine. However, the real star of Yellowbelly is mixologist (and co-owner) Tim Wiggins, whose beautiful, modern tiki cocktails anchor the concept. The menu also includes worldclass renditions of such quintessential rum-based concoctions as painkillers and daiquiris. You’ll be pleased with Yellowbelly’s food; you’ll be blown away by its drinks. $$$. Open daily for dinner; lunch Wednesday through Sunday.
Juniper
4101 Laclede Avenue, 314-329-7696 In its striking new digs in the southeast corner of the Central West End, Juniper is better than ever, with a newly sleek look that pairs remarkably well with its elevated Southern cuisine. Chef Glenister Wells’ menu includes longtime favorites such as fried chicken and hoecakes, shrimp and grits and that deliriously delicious bread basket, along with newer choices like a celery root steak and Louisiana BBQ mussels. The cocktails are as good as ever — only now there’s a dedicated bar area providing enough elbow room to enjoy them. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday, lunch Monday through Friday, and brunch Saturday and Sunday.
Levant
386 North Euclid Avenue, 314-833-4400 Located in the old Kopperman’s space on Euclid Avenue, Levant has transformed a Jewish delicatessen into a sultry lounge-like restaurant painted wall-to-ceiling in black. Chef/owner Ahmad Hameed serves exceptionally well-executed Syrian comfort food. The hummus is a masterpiece — it’s heavily flavored with tahini and brightened with fresh-squeezed lemon and olive oil. The deeply nutty chickpea concoction is velvety smooth. The kitchen’s prowess is also evident on the shish tawuk. The meat is so tender and juicy you’d think it was injected with olive oil and lemon, but Hameed explains it’s the result of a marinade technique he’s perfected over the years. Even in the mixed grill, where it’s served with a tender beef kabob and a perfectly charred lamb chop, the
chicken is a scene-stealer. $$-$$$. Opens at 4 p.m. daily. Street-facing patio.
Scottish Arms
8 South Sarah Street, 314-535-0551 Scottish Arms owner Ally Nisbet, a native Scot, has created an invitingly dark and welcoming pub, perfect for downing pints or attempting to down haggis (which really isn’t bad!). The fish and chips are the best in town; the bangers and mash will warm your belly. But it’s not all classics; the restaurant’s take on seasonal, modern cuisine shows an equally deft hand. There’s a great scotch and whiskey list, and also a superior draft beer selection. $$-$$$. Open daily for dinner, with lunch on weekdays and brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Patio.
Retreat Gastropub
2 North Sarah Street, 314-261-4497 Retreat hits that sweet spot between an upscale bar that serves food and a full-fledged restaurant. It’s a trendy place that somehow never feels like it’s trying too hard. Credit goes to co-owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins, who hit all the right notes in a menu that includes everything from a top-notch burger to short-rib grilled cheese to seared trout. The cocktails are exceptional. $$. Closed Tuesday; lunch and dinner all other days. Screened-in sunroom.
Brasserie by Niche
4580 Laclede Avenue, 314-454-0600 Gerard Craft’s take on a classic Parisian brasserie has become a mecca for St. Louis’ favorite French dishes, from a cheese-crusted crock of onion soup to a killer cassoulet. The emphasis here is on good ingredients prepared with skill and care, and while that doesn’t come cheaply, the payoff is worth it. The roasted chicken, served with shiitakes and dripping jus on its thick-cut bread base, is a masterpiece. And don’t even think of starting dinner without an order of gougeres. $$$. Dinner daily; brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Sidewalk seating.
Vicia
4260 Forest Park Avenue, 314-553-9239 Vicia feels like a contemporary farmhouse, with whitewashed exposed brick, pale wooden tables and white-framed windows that separate the bar from the dining room. A large wood-fired hearth is where much of the cooking takes place — and it’s absolutely transcendent. Chef Michael Gallina’s “vegetable-forward” dishes may not be sized for St. Louis-sized appetites, but they’re stunningly composed and imbued with intention. His Berkshire pork may have you wondering whether you’ve ever eaten pig before. No wonder the national press has named Vicia one of the best new restaurants in the nation. $$-$$$. Open for lunch weekdays and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Enclosed patio.
Pi Pizzeria
400 North Euclid Avenue, 314-367-4300 The Central West End outlet of pizza powerhouse Pi offers an upscale setting with dimmer lighting than its sister locations, a classy vibe and a large bar, perfect for sampling those great cocktails. As with its siblings, the menu here let you choose between
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thin or deep-dish crust pizzas with a large array of toppings including fontina cheese or fresh basil. Or try the namesake pizza, the “Central West End,” which includes mozzarella, Volpi prosciutto, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, red onions and arugula. Gluten-free crust, vegan meat substitutes and vegan cheese are available on all pies. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily. Sidewalk seating.
MIDTOWN/ GRAND CENTER BaiKu Sushi Lounge
3407 Olive Street, 314-896-2500 A sleek lounge-style spot inside Grand Center’s Hotel Ignacio, BaiKu Sushi Lounge presents a good option for pre-theater dining or simply a chance to get dressed up. Chef Eliott Harris offers a long list of rolls and nigiri/sashimi options including everything from tuna to sea urchin. For those who insist that their food be cooked, there are a handful of noodle dishes and, after 5 p.m., a grilled salmon or an 8-ounce tenderloin. The more adventurous should check out the sake list. $$-$$$. Open for lunch Wednesday through Friday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Hugo’s
3135 Olive Street, 314-896-4846 Hugo’s was inspired by veteran restaurateur Dave Bailey’s four-year-old son: fun, super cute and full of energy. Fittingly, the pizzeria is a warm, friendly place, but you don’t need kids to go here: It’s nice enough for date night. Hugo’s crust has the thickness of naan with the chew you get on the edges of Neapolitan pies. Round, twelve-inch pies made for sharing are cooked in a deck oven so they crisp up ever so slightly on the bottom, without the char speckle you get from a hotter oven. A handful of salads, including one pairing broccolini with pistachios, red onion, feta and jalapeño vinaigrette, provide a refreshing break from the cheese-covered carbs. Sauteed Brussels sprouts are another standout, gilded with a balsamic reduction and paired with hunks of house-cured bacon. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and noon on Sunday.
Pappy’s Smokehouse
3106 Olive Street, 314-535-4340 Since opening in 2008, this Midtown counter-service eatery has set the standard for ‘cue in the Lou, thrusting St. Louis into the conversation as one of the best barbecue cities in the country and attracting visits from just about every rock star and pro athlete passing through the city. Credit goes to co-founder and pitmaster Mike Emerson, who, as the face of Pappy’s, has turned what he anticipated would be a simple smokehouse into a place that regularly sees its lines snake around the block. Pappy’s has become such a phenomenon that you might wonder if the fanfare is nothing but hype. Quite the contrary. Emerson’s delectable smoked meats, in particular his dry-rubbed apple and cherry wood smoked ribs, leave you with little doubt that this is the real deal. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily; frequently sells out. No alcohol.
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justifiably famous pretzel can surely attest. (Dunked in the accompanying Welsh rarebit, it’s so good you simply won’t be able to stop until you’ve eaten the whole thing.) A Central West End mainstay for nearly 40 years, Dressel’s has excellent food, but remains a pub at its core; you’ll be equally comfortable tucking into steak frites or getting your buzz on at the invitingly large bar, something few restaurants can say. Unusually for a bar, Dressel’s boasts a great kids’ menu. $$. Sidewalk seating. Open daily for dinner; lunch Wednesday through Saturday and Sunday brunch.
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Turn
Southern
3108 Olive Street, 314-531-4668 Southern is the undisputed champion of the hot-chicken genre in St. Louis — if not anywhere (shhh, don’t tell the folks in Nashville), a reputation solidified by its impossibly juicy, so hot it will make you hiccup, deep-fried bird. It’s so good it’s almost masochistic — the heat stings your throat and makes your eyes water, but the chicken is so damn flavorful you don’t want to stop. And it’s only part of Southern’s story. Catfish, biscuits, mac-and-cheese casserole and a BLT with bacon so thick it could be called a ham steak make this wonderful Midtown spot much more than just a hot-chicken restaurant. $. Opens at 11 a.m. daily. No alcohol.
Fountain on Locust
3037 Locust Street, 314-535-7800 Long before the city’s nouveau ice cream shops started offering boozy flavors and ice cream cocktails, the Fountain on Locust was on the scene, blending ice cream with alcohol for a cool dose of yum. The city’s O.G. ice cream parlor offers a voluminous menu of ice cream martinis, which go down smooth but also carry quite a kick. A roster of well-executed retro cocktails, from the rusty nail to the sazerac, also feel just right in these high-spirited, Art Deco environs. Because dessert isn’t everything, Fountain on Locust also offers down-home entrees, including a meatball sub, and an addictive dill pickle soup that is much better than you’d ever dream it could be. $. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Small Batch
3001 Locust Street, 314-380-2040 Restaurateur David Bailey takes the whiskey-bar trend in an unexpected direction with his vegetarian eatery Small Batch. Bailey doesn’t bill the place as a crunchy vegetarian spot; instead, he hopes diners will enjoy the vegetable-focused concept so much that they fail to miss the meat. The carbonara pasta, which replaces the richness of bacon with smoked mushrooms, proves that is not an impossible dream. Small Batch’s bourbon selection and creative cocktails are also impressive, and the gorgeous vintage setting provides an ideal spot to indulge in Prohibition-era-style drinking. $$. Open Monday through Saturday for dinner and on Sunday for brunch.
Grand Tavern by David Burke 634 North Grand Boulevard, 314-405-3399 Star New York-based chef David Burke brings his signature whimsy to his restaurant within Grand Center’s Angad Arts Hotel. For dinner, that might mean pastrami smoked salmon carpaccio, “emotional lobster dumplings” or “hipster fries,” sprinkled with Parmesan, shishitos and beef jerky. For your entree, get the branzino with artichoke hummus or splurge on brick-aged steaks using the chef’s patented dry-age process. If you’re trying to make a showtime, ask for the pre-theatre menu. Either way, make sure to leave room for a cheesecake lollipop tree or gooey butter donuts. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 7 a.m. Rooftop bar offers limited menu selections.
Turn
3224 Locust Street, 314-240-5157 A former DJ, Turn’s chef/owner David Kirkland says cooking is a lot like spinning music — the physical movements, the energy, the constant pressure to be on top of what comes next. At his delightful Grand Center café, Kirkland may as well be Beethoven, concocting a symphony of flavors that has us dancing in our seats. An expert at infusing his dishes with local, seasonal ingredients, Kirkland shows a restrained hand on even traditionally heavy offerings like biscuits and gravy and chorizo-covered arepas. His flavors are refined and impeccably presented in a light, airy eatery that looks like a modern museum café. It’s a fitting setting for such artful food. $$. Open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday and 5 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.
Schlafly Tap Room
2100 Locust Street, 314-241-2337 The first brewery to open in Missouri since Prohibition, Schlafly Tap Room has anchored its Midtown block since 1991. There are generally around sixteen to eighteen hand-crafted beers available on tap in the historic brick and timber building. The food is good, with sandwiches like a delicious shrimp bánh mì and five different riffs on West Coast mussels anchoring the menu. Pub plates include not just the expected fish and chips and shepherd’s pie, but also vindaloo curry, with your choice of chicken or tofu. $$. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Very small outdoor seating area.
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BLK MKT Eats
9 S. Vandeventer Avenue, 314-391-5100 This hip counter-service spot is the first in St. Louis to offer the sushi burrito. But that’s not all it’s serving. Like Chipotle and its many imitators, BLK MKT Eats’ various proteins can be prepared in a few different styles: a sushi burrito, wrapped in nori and packed with sticky rice; a poke bowl, with either white or brown rice; an arugula-based salad; or atop wonton “nachos.” The “Shaka Poke” nachos rely on crispy fried wonton triangles and toppings that include avocados, arugula, sesame seeds, shallots, scallions, tempura crunchies and a liberal garnish of the “OG Fire” sauce. It’s a messy masterpiece. $. Takeout only. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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THE GROVE Layla
4317 Manchester Avenue, 314-553-9252 Layla began as a Lebanese restaurant, and that heritage is evident in its top-notch hummus, addictive falafel fries and excellent shawarma. These days, though, Layla is equally proud of its gourmet burgers and craft cocktails. It sounds like a lot, but the concept works; it’s the kind of hip neighborhood spot you wish your neighborhood had. Add in a good kid’s menu and milkshakes (both boozy and not), and you’ve got a place for the whole family. $-$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Friday and at 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Limited sidewalk seating.
Everest Cafe & Bar
4145 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-4800 At this Grove mainstay you’ll find a mix of Nepalese, Korean and Indian dishes prepared with fresh, healthy ingredients. Chef/owner Dr. Devi Gurung States earned his doctorate in public health, and the menu is chock-full of organic vegetables, with no processed foods or butter or heavy creams. Choose from the simple pleasures of mo-mos (steamed pork dumplings from Tibet) or the complex interplays of meat, vegetables and spices that fill daal, bhat, tarkari ra saag, a complete Nepalese meal with lentil soup, rice, meat, vegetables and spicy achars. $-$$. Opens daily for lunch and dinner, with a lunch buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Sauce on the Side
4261 Manchester Avenue, 314-932-7800 This homegrown fast-casual chain now boasts five locations, but our favorite is the one in the Grove, with three sizable rooms offering panoramic views of Manchester and interior murals by surrealist artist Phil Jarvis. The menu offers fourteen varieties of calzones, from the pizza-like “Costanza” (pepperoni, basil, garlic, eggplant, mozzarella and ricotta) to the intriguing “Figgy Piggy” (bacon, figs, balsamic-glazed onions, mozzarella and Boursin). You can also build your own. The concept is smart, the execution excellent. With beer and wine and friendly, fast service, Sauce on the Side is casual enough to bring the kids but cool enough to visit with your friends. $. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Sultan Mediterranean
Sultan Mediterranean
4200 Manchester Avenue, 314-390-2020 Kurdish immigrants Akram Saeed and Jenar Mohammed are serving the food of their homeland in a striking space, with large windows overlooking Manchester and charming accents that reference the family’s heritage. The colorful chandeliers are from Turkey; the golden-hued tea sets displayed on a shelf near the dessert counter came directly from Kurdistan. House specialties include the “Sultan Pilau,” a Kurdish puff pastry that wraps lamb, rice, almonds in chickpeas in layers of phyllo dough. Instead of just the stuffed grape leaves known to American diners, Sultan stuffs zucchini, tomato and even eggplant. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday. No alcohol.
Grace Meat + Three
4270 Manchester Avenue, 314-533-2700 A glance of the menu of good ol’ country cooking at Grace Meat + Three might lead you to believe that chef/owner Rick Lewis cut his teeth in the kitchen of a homestyle cafeteria — not in some of the city’s finest white-tablecloth establishments. However, when you taste Lewis’ cooking, you’ll quickly realize that behind his self-described “blue-collar” dishes lie the refinement and skill of a great culinary talent. It’s a marriage of haute blue-plate specials and down-South after-church fare wrapped in bacon and sopped up with a biscuit. Counter service. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Wednesday through Friday and 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Urban Chestnut Grove Brewery & Bierhall
4465 Manchester Avenue, 314-222-0143 At 70,000 square feet, Urban Chestnut is St. Louis’ biggest craft brewery, and the humongous facility looks like a battleship next to the neighboring Grove storefronts. The counter-service bierhall is housed inside of the actual brewery, and patrons eat and drink in the shadow of massive steel
fermentation tanks. Offerings consist of snacks, fries, sandwiches and “other things,” including a little gem salad, currywurst or rotisserie chicken. Or choose from a selection of G&W sausage, served with side dishes including pickled cabbage slaw and sauerkraut. $. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Pie Guy Pizza
4189 Manchester Avenue, 314-899-0444 This spot attached to Gezellig Bottle Shop isn’t much bigger than a garage, with one metal communal table in the center and a counter separating the kitchen from the rest of the restaurant. It serves pizza and pretty much only pizza. Co-owner Mitch Frost uses sourdough bread that’s been cold-fermented for three days. The thin crust is crispy and full of flavor, with big slices that can be folded in the classic New York style. Beer available from Gezellig. $. Open Tuesday through Saturday, with hours until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.
Sanctuaria
4198 Manchester Avenue, 314-535-9700 Sanctuaria’s tapas-style menu now includes not just Spanish influences but also a strong Mexican component as well, with everything from bacon-wrapped dates to a grilled steak fajita platter. Whatever you order, wash it down with a cocktail; Sanctuaria was a pioneer in the art of mixology, and the cocktails remain expertly crafted. The art here comes from churches around the world, but in this sexy environment it seems more goth than spiritual. $$. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday and lunch Friday through Sunday. Patio seating centered around a striking metal-andglass conservatory.
The Gramophone
4243 Manchester Avenue, 314-531-5700 When the Gramophone announced it was switching gears from being a music club to a “sandwich pub,” music fans were seriously bummed out — but they
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shouldn’t have been. The sandwiches here are simply spectacular, with creative combinations of quality ingredients piled high. Add a side of loaded mashed potatoes or broccoli salad, and you’ve got a solid base to soak up no small amount of booze. Which is a good thing, since the vibe here remains distinctly conducive to drinking. It’s a great combo. $. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. (kitchen open until 2:30 a.m.) Patio.
Brasswell at Rockwell Beer Co.
1320 South Vandeventer Avenue, 314-256-1657 A modern tasting room on an industrial stretch of Vandeventer, Rockwell Beer Co. has proven a huge draw, linking the Grove and Botanical Heights neighborhoods and providing excellent beer to boot. But it’s not all about the brewskis; the food menu (by star chef Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group) is also a major attraction. The burger is pure beefy bliss; the beer brat is delightfully porky and snappy; even the chicken sandwich is a show-stopper. And did we mention they’re serving Brasserie fries? Counter service, with wine, cocktails and hard cider in addition to Rockwell’s beer. $. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
SHAW/ BOTANICAL HEIGHTS Elaia
1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088 In November 2012, Ben Poremba descended upon a forgotten swath of the city called McRee Town and opened a small, fiercely ambitious restaurant in a former drug house. With a menu of elegant, Mediterranean-inflected cuisine, a world-class wine list and impeccable service standards, Elaia quickly landed in the pantheon of the city’s best restaurants. Since then, Poremba has launched a mini-empire of restaurants that represents the best of the city’s dining scene, and McRee Town (now called Botanical Heights) has become a major dining destination. But through it all, Elaia has remained his flagship, a gallery of culinary elegance. The new à la carte menu (now an option alongside the restaurant’s traditional tasting menu) only serves to make that elegance more approachable. $$$. Opens at 5:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.
Union Loafers
1629 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-833-6111 Union Loafers’ lunch menu is simple — a ham-andcheddar sandwich, chicken-and-rice soup, even a humble PB&J — but it’s the best version of simple food you will ever have in your life. Then there is what may be the best salad known to man, the “Little Gem,” a mix of lettuces, herbs, breadcrumbs and buttermilk dressing that is so transcendent, you’ll wake up in the middle of the night craving it. Indeed, once you’ve ordered it, this salad will be the first thing that comes to mind any time someone mentions Union Loafers — the city’s best bread shop. This doesn’t just say a lot about the
“Little Gem”; it speaks volumes to just how much care head baker Ted Wilson and company put into everything they do. $-$$. Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday with an entirely different pizza-based menu from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Patio.
Nixta
1621 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-899-9000 Nixta has seen almost constant change in its twoyear run, switching chefs a few times as well as regional focuses. But the restaurant still remains true to its original vision: to be a forum for exploring upscale Mexican cuisine that causes American diners to check their preconceptions. An ethos like that transcends individual plates — and results in transcendent food. Don’t miss the octopus, which has become Nixta’s signature dish. A mezcal focus keeps the cocktail list as smokily sexy as the low-lit bar area. $$$. Opens at 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Patio.
Pho Long
2245 South Grand Boulevard, 314-833-4333 The second outpost of the beloved Olive Boulevard spot, Pho Long features numerous versions of the classic Vietnamese soup, with eleven beef versions alone. Appetizers, soupless noodle salads, dumplings and rice dishes complete the menu. The space is stunning, but equally important to patrons may be a commodity that’s all too rare on South Grand: rear parking. $-$$. Opens at 10 a.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. Friday through Sunday.
Five Aces BBQ
4000 Shaw Boulevard, 314-771-4001 Antonio Ellis cooks his barbecue over hickory wood — or, as he puts it, “We are not sitting on our gas over here at Five Aces.” He doesn’t use salt for his rubs, instead opting for a secret spice blend. The result is a flavor that spikes the brown sugary glaze with Creole or jerk spices like thyme, chiles, garlic, cinnamon and clove — wet-nap barbecue at its finest. The storefront eatery also offers sandwiches (including the memorably named “My Wife’s Mistake Meat Loaf Sloppy Joe”) and “home style entrees” of chicken and dumplings or “Fingerlickin’ Fish.” $-$$. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and lunch Saturday.
Olio
1634 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-932-1088 It’s no surprise that Ben Poremba’s Israeli-inflected wine bar serves up great food. Poremba, after all, is one of the city’s most acclaimed chefs. What might be surprising to first-time visitors, though, is just how much it retains its bar feel, even though the menu items it’s serving are good enough to carry a restaurant. Located in a renovated Standard Oil filling station, the quarters are close, lending an intimate vibe. Poremba’s food isn’t cheap; we’re guessing no other bar in St. Louis could get away with charging $14 for hummus. But quality underpins the pricing. That hummus, we’ll have you know, is studded with almonds, pine nuts and even braised lamb shoulder. It’s delicious. $$-$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.
DOGTOWN Hi-Pointe Drive-In
1033 McCausland Avenue, 314-349-2720 Mike Johnson made his name with the Sugarfire chain, but Hi-Pointe Drive-In proves he’s much more than a one-trick pony. This modern counter-service diner offers a mouthwatering mix of burgers, shakes (boozy and un-), sandwiches and salads. And while you could order a salad, this is no place for restraint. The burgers here are over-thetop decadent — and also over-the-top good, with a perfect mix of brisket, chuck and short rib that glistens with rendered fat, served on a soft potato bun. Why not order a double? — or get one piled high with bacon? $. Opens at 11 a.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Sizable patio.
Stone Turtle
6335 Clayton Avenue, 314-349-1933 Close your eyes and imagine a Dogtown gastropub, and you’ll likely conjure up Stone Turtle: dark wooden tables, exposed brick, a tin ceiling. In addition to its good looks, Stone Turtle also offers the only real upscale dining option in Dogtown, with entrees like pasta and steak frites in addition to the expected burger and sandwiches. Fried burrata is a luxurious stand-in for mozzarella sticks, while a pork chop served across creamy grits is the place’s best entree. $$. Open Wednesday through Monday for lunch and dinner; Sunday brunch.
Mac’s Local Eats at Tamm Avenue Grill
1225 Tamm Avenue, 314-479-8155 A meditation on sustainable, humanely raised meat served out of a window within a low-key Dogtown bar, Mac’s Local Eats serves only the best, local proteins that proprietor Chris “Mac” McKenzie can personally vouch for. For him, it’s not just a matter of better quality — although it undoubtedly is — but also a matter of respect for the animal who gave its life to feed us. And what respect he shows it: The juicy, griddled diner-style burgers at Mac’s ooze with cheese, fat and flavor, the result of McKenzie dry-aging an entire cow and then using every last bit of it. There’s no secret sauce or seasoning blend — just salt, pepper, a quick sear and the most important ingredient of all: love. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Closed Tuesday.
The Pat Connolly Tavern
6400 Oakland Avenue, 314-647-7287 Opened in 1942 by an Irish immigrant, the Pat Connolly Tavern is the canvas on which much of Dogtown’s green, white and orange history was painted. Over the decades, the venerable bar-andgrill has mastered the classic Irish pub formula: a down-to-earth atmosphere, friendly service and cold Guinness. Under current owners Theresa Connolly Jovanovich and Joe Jovanovich, who are descendants of the eponymous Pat Connolly, the tavern also has a new-and-improved menu of classic pub food and a sleeker look that harkens back to its mid-century origins. The famous fried chicken remains among the best in town; a kids menu means this is the rare pub where you really can
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Mondays. Opens at 11 a.m. every day but Sunday, with hours ‘til midnight on Friday and Saturday.
Stone Turtle
The Shaved Duck
2900 Virginia Avenue, 314-776-1407 What was originally a Tower Grove East gastropub now features American cuisine such as barbecue and chili. Tender and tasty smoked meats include baby-back ribs and St. Louis-cut spare ribs, pulled pork and chicken. Befitting the name, you can get a variety of options featuring duck, including duck and smoked jalapeno chili and a justifiably famous duck confit. The beer selection, featuring four revolving draft beers and an extensive selection of American craft brews by the bottle, is very good. $-$$. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Patio.
King & I
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3155 South Grand Avenue, 314-771-1777 Walking into King and I’s bustling double-sized storefront on South Grand, you’d never guess that this sleek modern space hosts the city’s oldest Thai restaurant, much less that owner Suchin Prapaisilp first opened its doors in 1972. But when you taste the food, you won’t be surprised at all by its incredible run. This is expertly prepared cuisine, with a focus on the food of central Thailand. Don’t even think about leaving without trying the “Four Kings of Thailand,” a stir-fry that combines shrimp, beef, chicken and pork with a host of vegetables in a roasted chile sauce. It’s sensational. $$. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Patio.
Cafe Mochi
bring the whole family. $. Saturday and Sunday brunch at 9 a.m.; opens weekdays at 11 a.m.
Southwest Diner
6803 Southwest Avenue, 314-260-7244 If you think Southwest Diner is named after the street on which it resides, you haven’t had the “New Mexican Breakfast Burrito,” a green chile-infused fire bomb of a breakfast that will make you think you’re at a roadside shack outside of Santa Fe rather than in a diner on the western edge of St. Louis. This beloved daytime spot serves up Southwestern-inflected specialties to bleary-eyed customers who are not afraid of heat. If you are spice-averse, stay as far as you can from “Jonathan’s Famous Fiery Scramble,” a cheesy egg concoction filled with enough heat to make you break a sweat. The wait can be long, but did we mention there’s a bus posted outside where you can get drinks? $. Opens weekdays at 7 a.m. and Saturday and Sunday at 8 a.m.
TOWER GROVE SOUTH AND EAST Café Natasha
3200 South Grand Boulevard, 314-771-3411 Café Natasha’s beef shish kebabs are unlike anything else in town: tender hunks of perfectly grilled meat marinated in heavenly nectar, 26
which the restaurant’s founder Behshid Bahrami (a Persian immigrant to the U.S.) painstakingly developed 30 years ago as a way to get around the gaminess he found in American lamb. As for that lamb, the restaurant’s legendary grilled chops put Café Natasha on the map. In the three decades since, the restaurant has moved, its patriarch has passed away, and his daughter has converted half the space into one of the country’s premier gin destinations. What hasn’t changed, though, is the Bahramis’ commitment to excellence in everything they do and the impeccable cuisine that comes out of their kitchen. The restaurant business may not have been their chosen path, but clearly, it was their destiny. $$. Open Monday and Tuesday for dinner only, with lunch and dinner Thursday through Sunday. Patio.
Pizza Head
3196 South Grand Boulevard, 314-266-5400 Punk rock-themed Pizza Head stands as an unapologetic, New York-attitude, no-frills counter-service spot that seems to turn any high-falutin’ notions of the “art” of pizza-making on its head. That is, until you taste the pies. Chef/owner Scott Sandler’s approach to pizza borders on obsession. Clearly, it would be impossible for him to offer anything less than perfection, and these transcendent New York-style slices achieve that. That Sandler’s doing it without meat (and, if you’d like, with cashew cheese for a vegan preparation) makes it even more impressive. Beer and wine only. $. Closed
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3221 South Grand Boulevard, 314-773-5000 The walls are a vivid magenta, the music an eclectic mix of mellow, head-nodding tunes, and happy hour is legendary. Cafe Mochi is a sushi lounge, not a sushi restaurant. The emphasis is on rolls of the everything-but-the-kitchen-sink variety, including a “Crunchy Bagel Roll” — a deep-fried roll stuffed with salmon, avocado and cream cheese. The nigiri sushi selection is conventional. Basic Japanese fare like tempura meat and vegetables, as well as soba and udon noodles, is also available. $$. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Patio.
Three Monkeys
3153 Morganford Road, 314-772-9800 A Morganford mainstay, Three Monkeys was recently given a major reset by new owners Zach and Mary Rice, experienced food service professionals now at the helm of a place of their own. They’ve kept what regulars loved (the dark-wood bar, the pizza, the south-city prices) but spruced up the place, added fresh ingredients and given the bar a serious overhaul, with a good wine selection and newfound whiskey focus in addition to the excellent beer selection. $-$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday, with Sunday brunch starting at 9 a.m.
Sheesh Restaurant
3226 South Grand Boulevard, 314-833-4321 Brother and sister Safa and Zaenab Marmarchi spared no expense in opening their three-year-old Turkish restaurant on South Grand, bringing in chefs from their motherland in addition to striking copper
VP Square
tables and colorful tapestries. That care also shows in the food, which is executed with precision. The lamb biryani’s soft meat almost falls off the bone, its bed of rice studded with raisins, chickpeas and subtle spicing. Order the hummus appetizer, and you won’t just get the usual mass-produced pita bread. Sheesh serves it with a giant, lightly charred puff, perfectly baked so there’s just a fine layer of crisp around the warm center. No alcohol. $$. Opens Monday through Thursday at 4 p.m. and Friday through Sunday at 11 a.m.
3611 Juniata Street, 314-833-4838 This excellent Asian fusion spot takes its inspiration from a variety of traditions, including Vietnamese, Korean and Japanese. Bibimbap next to Szechuan hot pot, bánh mì alongside tonkotsu ramen — for a lesser chef it would be overly ambitious, but for the talented Duncan Pham, it’s effortless. Even basic-sounding dishes such as tofu yaki udon are transformed into a work of art; the yaki udon are silken ropes, gilded with just a touch of a sticky soy glaze that enhances their nutty flavor without covering it. The crab Rangoon, too, are transcendent. A walk-up bubble tea counter lets customers gets drinks to go. $$. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Closed Mondays.
Brasilia
3212 South Grand Boulevard, 314-932-1034. Brasilia’s lounge is a bossa nova-inflected dream world. “The Girl from Ipanema” plays on a loop while reed-fashioned hammocks hang from the ceiling and a giant mural of Christ the Redeemer takes up an entire wall. After two of Brasilia’s stiff caipirinhas, you might be convinced you’re viewing the famed statue from a spot on Copacabana Beach. A solid set of entrees includes vatapa de frango (a boneless, skinless chicken breast with traditional cashew nut gravy) and beef acebolado, Brazil’s version of skillet steak, flecked with coarse black peppercorns and served sliced with onions and peppers on a searing hot cast-iron skillet. Lunch buffet Tuesday through Saturday, with a Sunday brunch buffet; open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner. $$. Closed Monday.
Lulu’s Local Eatery
3201 South Grand Boulevard, 314-357-7717 Lulu’s may be vegan, but patrons are treated to hearty, satisfying cuisine that appeals to even the most committed carnivore. Buffalo cauliflower bites are like vegetarian boneless buffalo wings, complete with ranch dressing. The buffalo blue burger and sweet potato falafel are also excellent sandwiches, but the star of the menu is the Buddha bowl, filled with stir-fried vegetables and thick, silky udon noodles. Dine on the patio, amidst the organic herbs and vegetables — you just might be sitting next to tomorrow’s special. $. Open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Patio.
Sheesh Restaurant
4071 South Grand Boulevard, 314-353-0545 It’s great, of course, when you find a restaurant that does a fantastic job of representing the culture from which it comes. But it’s sometimes even better when you find a place that works from within a culture but is really an expression of the owner’s own personal interests. That’s the case with Banh Mi So #1. Run by Thomas and Lynn Truong, the humble cafe is famous among vegetarians and omnivores alike for its spring rolls (the secret ingredient is mung bean cake, and you’ll just have to trust us that this is a very good thing), pan-fried crepes and noodle dishes. Absolutely not to be missed is the “Joe B,” a mouthwatering faux-beef sandwich on flaky, crunchy, soft French bread that will satisfy a yen you never knew you had. The family grows its own herbs out back, so the mint and cilantro in your soup really is as fresh as it tastes. This is gourmet food at street-cart prices. No alcohol. $. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Sunday. Patio.
Guerrilla Street Food
3559 Arsenal Street, 314-448-1313 What began as a food truck has quickly become a fast-casual juggernaut, with four locations (and counting!). All it takes to understand Guerrilla Street Food’s rocket-fueled growth is one visit to its Tower Grove East flagship. The Filipino-inspired food is delicious and approachable, the kitchen speedy and the vibe distinctly hip. Oh, and it’s also surprisingly affordable. Beer and very limited wine selection only. $. Opens at 11 a.m. daily; hours until midnight Friday and Saturday.
MABEL SUEN
Banh Mi So #1
Tree House
3177 South Grand Boulevard, 314-696-2100 Bay Tran first opened Tree House six years ago with numerous vegetarian menu items that could be modified as vegan, but the vegan offerings proved so popular she’s now made them the default in many cases. In a stylish dining room overlooking South Grand, she’s serving a menu with highlights including a fried beet appetizer, thickly sliced into a french-fry-like shape with a crisp outside and a coating of sea salt and togarashi. The Brussels sprout salad is also beloved, with red and green cabbage joining shallots, fresh herbs, jalapeno and sweet chile vinaigrette. Weekend brunch is a highlight; the ambitious cocktail program proves that organic and sustainable doesn’t preclude fun. $$. Open Monday through Sunday for dinner, with brunch Saturday and Sunday. Patio.
THE HILL & ITS NEIGHBORS J. Devoti Trattoria
5100 Daggett Avenue, 314-773-5553 A recasting of the acclaimed Five Bistro, J. Devoti Trattoria stands out from the Hill’s American-style Italian joints, showcasing chef Anthony Devoti’s skill at making flawlessly executed, refined cooking feel accessible. Yes, those are white tablecloths, but the place is modern and the service approachable. The fist-sized meatball, served atop creamy polenta, is a revelation, while the vegetable risotto is a master class in the form. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday.
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Adam’s Smokehouse
2819 Watson Road, 314-875-9890 Adam’s Smokehouse, the third in line in the Pappy’s Smokehouse family, serves pulled pork, ribs and brisket every bit as good as its big brothers, but its smoked salami is its calling card. The 70/30 blend of pork and beef is flecked with crushed black peppercorns and mixed with an obscene amount of garlic. Adam’s smokes the garlic before blending it with the meat, giving it a softer flavor and creamy texture that melds with the pork and beef. The salami is then smoked with fruitwood, infusing the meat with subtle sweetness. It’s terrific. $$. Sidewalk seating. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Closed Mondays.
Charlie Gitto’s on the Hill
5226 Shaw Avenue, 314-772-8898 Charlie Gitto’s has become a landmark in a neighborhood filled with Italian restaurants, its success the result of its ability to hit just the right note between pedestrian red sauce and stuffy tableside service. Charlie Gitto’s is more upscale than some of its neighbors and yet not as formal as others — a place to go if someone in your party wants a simple pizza while you are craving an elegant veal saltimbocca. That it can do both with aplomb, and for more than three decades at that, is certainly no accident. $$-$$$. Open daily for dinner. Dress code requires “proper attire.”
Gioia’s
1934 Macklind Avenue, 314-776-9410 An institution since 1918, Gioia’s Deli began its life as a grocery store but is now a sandwich shop with three locations. The original is on the Hill, a friendly counter-service shop named an
“America’s Classic” by no less than the James Beard Foundation. Gioia’s is most famous for its hot salami, or Salam de Testa: a thick, soft salami made from beef and — yes — pork snouts. The flavor is rich and earthy and delicious. Try it on its own or in the “Italian trio” with mortadella and Genoa salami, peperoncini, onions and cheese on toasted garlic bread. Gioia’s salsiccia is tasty, too, especially when smothered with melting mozzarella cheese. $. Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Patio.
Anthonino’s Taverna
2225 Macklind Avenue, 314-773-4455 For nearly two decades, Anthonino’s Taverna has been serving St. Louis diners a taste of Anthony and Rosario Scarato’s joint Greek and Italian heritage in a setting as warm and family-friendly as the brothers’ home. Dolmades and pizza, chicken Parmesan and gyros, pastas and sandwiches all beg you to play favorites, but the toasted ravioli is the must-order on this menu: RFT readers have voted it the best in town for seven consecutive years. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Carnivore
5257 Shaw Avenue, 314-449-6328 The Hill’s first steakhouse, Carnivore offers a more reasonable price point than the national chains, and each cut comes with a salad or your choice of side. The dining room has a more modern vibe, too, with a colorful mural of the neighborhood on one wall, white-painted brick and big windows facing Shaw Avenue. But Carnivore is not lacking for decadence; top your steak with a house butter,
including garlic and herb, blue cheese or garlic Parmesan. $$-$$$. Opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and 2 p.m. Saturday. Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Farmhaus
3257 Ivanhoe Avenue, 314-647-3800 No chef is better at capturing the spirit of Midwestern fine dining than the multiple James Beard nominee Kevin Willmann, whose beloved Clifton Heights restaurant is a comfortable setting for enjoying the area’s bounty. Any chef worth his or her salt these days uses local, seasonal ingredients, but at Farmhaus these are less components and more the restaurant’s entire reason for being. You see elements of Willmann’s upbringing on the Gulf Coast in his seafood dishes, but the restaurant remains all Missouri — and the place has never tasted so good. $$$$. Opens Tuesday through Saturday at 5:30 p.m.
J. Smugs GastroPit
2130 Macklind Avenue, 314-499-7488 Located in a former gas station, J. Smugs boasts quarters as cute (and cozy) as its ribs are dazzling. This dry-rubbed version has a thick crust that actually crunches when you bite into it. It’s reminiscent of the bark you get on a well-prepared brisket, and just as deeply smoky. The brisket burger and smoked meatballs are also both outstanding. Side dishes are standard barbecue fare, but don’t miss the spectacular baked beans. $-$$. Open for dinner Tuesday and lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, with a large takeout business. Limited indoor seating as well as some outdoor tables. MABEL SUEN
Kalbi Taco Shack
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58hundred
5800 Southwest Avenue, 314-279-5799 58hundred is one of those rare gems that hits that perfect tone between being nice enough for heels, but not so nice you’re embarrassed to roll in wearing yoga pants. Owners Marc Del Pietro and Brian Doherty have carefully calibrated the menu to include both vegetarian-friendly offerings and meaty ones, with an appealing price point. The Brussels sprouts tacos are a standout, as is the Buffalo-fried shrimp starter. On the entree side, braised beef is served with Parmesan gnocchi, an elegant rendering of the quintessential comfort food. $-$$. Open for lunch on weekdays and dinner Monday through Saturday. Patio.
NORTH HAMPTON AND SOUTHAMPTON Knead Bakehouse
3467 Hampton Avenue, 314-376-4361 Co-owner AJ Brown got his start baking bread, but Knead Bakehouse offers much more than that. In fact, it could be one of the city’s top daytime spots. The exceptional egg, sausage and cheese sandwich presents like a breakfast burger stuffed with soft-scrambled eggs, smoked cheddar, aioli, sliced tomatoes and greens. Brioche French toast, meanwhile, is so pillow-like you’d be forgiven for trying to nestle your face into it. Topped with sweet strawberry preserves, it’s a masterpiece. Counter service, with limited communal-style seating. $. Open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday. Limited outdoor seating.
Kounter Kulture
3825 Watson Road, 314-781-4344 Using contemporary Asian fare as a jumping-off point, this tiny, takeout-only restaurant is serving some of the city’s most interesting combinations of flavors. From steamed buns stuffed with beer-battered cod to braised beef gyudon, Kounter Kulture has taken the stale concept of fusion and redefined it into the current culinary moment, with delectable dishes including bibimbap, Japanese-style savory pancakes and much, much more. Best of all, it’s all sustainably sourced. $$. Open 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, as well as on Saturdays when the Tower Grove Farmers Market is not in season. Some outdoor seating.
Russell’s on Macklind
5400 Murdoch Avenue, 314-553-9994 Trained as a pastry chef, owner Russell Ping has created an impossibly cozy bistro — exposed brick, low ceilings, mismatched wood furniture and a vintage fireplace. In the evening it’s lit by votive candles, making it an intimate spot to nosh on Russell’s signature upscale comfort food. On a nice weekend morning or afternoon, the large, tree-covered patio is the place to be, as neighbors pop in and out to grab a coffee and
pastry and just say hello. It’s a true neighborhood gathering place. $$-$$$. Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday and weekend brunch. Patio.
Edibles & Essentials
5815 Hampton Avenue, 314-328-2300 Dining at Edibles & Essentials is less like going out to a restaurant and more like being a guest in Matt Borchardt’s home. One minute, the chef and owner is popping open a bottle of wine at your table; the next he’s scrambling back to the kitchen to pull some mushroom tarts out of the oven. On any day, you can find people from the neighborhood dropping by for some white bean dip and a beer, grabbing a few provisions and bottle of wine to go or chatting up Borchardt about a catering gig. How many places in town offer well-executed classics like Moroccan chicken and a full bar in the same small counter-service spot as to-go deli items? It’s a unique combo, but with Borchardt at the helm, it somehow works. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. Patio.
Himalayan Yeti
3515 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-354-8338 Chef/owner Dipak Prasai is serving top-notch Indian and Nepalese cuisine out of a former Long John Silver’s on South Kingshighway. During lunch hours, the hostess will likely assume you’re there for the standard (albeit excellent) buffet in the corner of the room. It’s a great deal, but you’ll find magic in the à la carte offerings, including revelatory versions of Indian classics like chicken tikka masala and chana masala. More adventurous diners will thrill to the lamb sekuwa, with its shockingly tender spice-rubbed meat, and the standout goat curry. $-$$. Lunch buffet daily from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner daily.
Southtown Pub
3707 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-833-3999 A lot of bars claim to serve good food — but how many have food impressive enough to sustain a robust catering business on the side? Southtown Pub is the only one we can think of, an achievement even more impressive in that this Northampton establishment isn’t a fancy cocktail bar or even a bar that’s lured a top chef to run the kitchen. It’s simply a bar-bar that happens to serve great food. And we mean great. It’s not just that you can soak up the booze with “Hoosier Nachos” or “Southtown Atomic turds” (smoked jalapeño stuffed with chorizo and cream cheese). It’s that this noisy no-frills pub is also serving some of the best barbecue in a city increasingly full of above-average options. A host of sandwiches and dinner platters offer creative ways to take down your smoked meats. $-$$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily. Patio.
CHEROKEE STREET Frankly on Cherokee
2744 Cherokee Street, 314-449-1178 Beneath Frankly on Cherokee’s low-key veneer lies a bona-fide gourmet restaurant. You can see elements of chef/owner Bill Cawthon’s fine-dining pedigree in his thoughtful offerings, whether it’s a simple, flawlessly executed bratwurst or one of his more exotic sausages, like rabbit or lamb. Perhaps the chef’s touch shines brightest, though, on the French fries. On their own, they may be the city’s best fries, but once covered in funky molten raclette cheese, they may be one of the city’s best dishes — at any price point. Beer, wine and cocktails in a can. $. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, with lunch Friday and Saturday.
Morning Glory Diner
2609 Cherokee Street, 314-250-6007 This charming, light-filled diner boasts far more than the greasy-spoon food you might expect from its name. Rising star chef Ari Jo Ellis uses fresh ingredients in from-scratch offerings including slingers and cheeseburgers and fries. Even the sausage is made in-house. Try the chicken and johnny cakes, a spin on fried chicken and waffles that subs in cornmeal pancakes and cornmeal-breaded chicken served with an egg. No alcohol. $. Opens Wednesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Kalbi Taco Shack
2301 Cherokee Street, 314-240-5544 It’s no coincidence that the order counter at Kalbi Taco Shack looks like a food truck window; the fast-casual eatery on Cherokee’s Antique Row follows the Kogi BBQ model, with street-artstyle graphics and fusion food. The restaurant’s namesake, Korean-style marinated pulled short ribs called kalbi, show why the K-taco trend has been so popular. Following the Chipotle model, the mouthwatering soy-glazed meat can be stuffed into any number of formats — a taco, burrito, quesadilla, rice bowl or bánh mì. No alcohol. $. Open 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
The Taco & Ice Cream Joint
2738 Cherokee Street, 314-224-5799 A long-abandoned department store in the heart of Cherokee Street has been turned into a massive, Technicolor restaurant that makes Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory look subdued. An ice cream counter runs the entire length of a very deep space, overflowing with flavors both traditional and un-, candies, sprinkles, bacon, exotic fruit and anything else you could imagine for toppings. Popsicles with hunks of fresh fruit, waffle cones coated in sugary glaze and a chocolate fountain that seems to run just for the spectacle of it sit behind the glass. The savory menu (ordered at a separate counter) is every bit as worthy. The restaurant offers a dozen different taco fillings, all served à la carte and completely undressed. This presentation allows diners to choose their own accoutrements from a salsa bar that offers everything from pickled onions to fiery mango salsas. No alcohol. $. Lunch and dinner daily.
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Taqueria el Bronco
2817 Cherokee Street, 314-762-0691 You won’t find many decorations inside this narrow storefront; Taqueria el Bronco is all about the food. The menu features standard taqueria fare, though a few larger entrées are available. On both Saturdays and Sundays, menudo and pozole are on the menu, along with brunch-friendly egg-based items such as huevos rancheros and huevos con chorizo. A michelada is the obvious hair-of-the-dog choice, but other choices include a margarita, buckets of beer or even tequila. $. Opens Monday through Thursday at 10 a.m. and Friday through Sunday at 9 a.m.
SOUTH OF MERAMEC Stellar Hog at Super’s Bungalow
5623 Leona Street When pitmaster Alex Cupp bought the nearly 90-year-old dive bar Super’s Bungalow a few years back, regulars must have worried — but rather than change Super’s down-home vibe, Cupp’s Stellar Hog-branded barbecue has instead given us even more reason to visit, with superior barbecue and a full-service kitchen. The Holly Hills institution still has the same Budweiser Clydesdales trotting in a glass globe above the bar; the only difference is that now they’re joined by a pig motif too. $$. Kitchen opens at 11 a.m. Wednesday through Sunday, with an early 6 p.m. closure on Sunday. Patio.
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Mariscos el Gato
4561 Gravois Avenue, 314-282-0772 Chef Pedro “el Gato” Diaz earned a big following on Cherokee Street for his Nayarit-style seafood dishes, only to decamp for a new location in the heart of Bevo Mill after a dispute with a business partner. Look for the massive seafood platters, filled with whole fish, crab, scallops, lobster and octopus, that made folks fall in love with his cooking in the first place. Stuffed whole fish, ceviche and a variety of seafood cocktails also feature in the new menu, only now they’re being served in a classic St. Louis storefront with lots of dark wood and exposed brick. No wonder Mariscos el Gato has become one of the hottest tables in town. $$-$$$. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sol Azteca
4232 South Broadway, 314-449-1505 A cheerful strip mall outlet in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood, Sol Azteca is serving the food of owner Jesus Rojas’ hometown, Mexico City. That means two-foot-long quesadillas with a thick corn base, as well as pambazos and huaraches. Less adventurous eaters will also find plenty to like here, with a solid repertoire of fajitas, burritos and tacos. Beer and wine only. $-$$. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner.
Stacked Burger Bar
7637 Ivory Avenue, 314-544-4900 The inventive burger creations at this friendly Patch bar and grill are pretty fantastic. However, the “Think You Could Do It Better?” build-your-own menu is what sets Stacked Burger Bar apart from the rest. Seventy-two options inspire one-of-a-kind creations sure to satisfy anyone’s craving. Patty op-
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tions include ground chuck, chicken breast, black bean, local grass-fed beef, Sriracha burger and turkey. A lengthy toppings list includes bourbon-bacon maple jam, fried pickles, guacamole, sauerkraut, sautéed mushrooms, barbecued brisket and a fried egg. Could you do better? Maybe not, but you’ll sure have fun trying. $. Open for lunch and dinner daily, with Sunday hours from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Majeed Mediterranean Restaurant
4658 Gravois Avenue, 314-282-0981 Opened in January 2018 by Syrian refugees, Majeed offers not only some terrific bargains but some of the best Middle Eastern food in town. Beef kefta, so often a dried-out, lackluster kabob choice, is here as juicy as a composite of slow-cooked pot roast. The meat pulls apart at only the slightest prodding; each bite is verdant with fresh parsley and garlic. Served over a platter, it is wonderful; wrapped in pita and covered in garlic sauce, it is sublime. The hummus is sumptuous and velvety; the chicken shawarma is transcendent. No alcohol. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Taco Circus
4258 Schiller Place, 314-808-2050 Taco Circus is a love letter to the taco counters that chef/owner Christian Ethridge grew up eating at in Texas. Just like back home, he keeps things casual. Chances are the person who takes your order at the counter and rings you out is the same one who makes your food — all within about three minutes. The quality of ingredients shines through in the preparations. Fillings include juicy chicken or steak fajitas, seasoned with mild chiles and char-kissed by the grill. The breakfast tacos are downright revelato-
MABEL SUEN
Majeed Mediterranean Restaurant
ry. Ethridge is currently preparing to move to a much larger spot in Southwest Garden and add servers and cocktails, but for now Taco Circus is open in Bevo and serves beer only. $. Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily; closed Tuesday.
J’s Pitaria
5003 Gravois Avenue, 314-339-5319 Like blintzes made from phyllo, Zamir Jahic’s pitas are stuffed, rolled and baked to the point that the exterior gets golden and flaky while the interior remains gooey and tender. Ordered by the pound rather than by the piece, the pitas are both sweet and savory. The latter include a simple cheese version, which oozes with mild and gooey kajmak, a housemade buttery spread that is like the lovechild of feta and boursin cheese, making for a pillow-soft, cheesy version of a fried spring roll. More traditional sandwiches include a wonderful doner kebab and a Bosnian-style chicken panini. No alcohol; counter service. $. Open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. 5800 Gravois Avenue, 314-899-9898 At Lemmons by Grbic, the Grbic family transforms former dive bar Lemmons into an approachable Bosnian-American fusion eatery — family-friendly, but nice enough for date night. The addictive “Balkan Dipping Board” consists of golf ball-sized fritters of ustipci, or Bosnian bread, with three sauces. Homemade flatbread serves as the base for Lemmons’ riff on a sausage pizza. Instead of American-style pork sausage, the restaurant uses cevapi, a mild Bosnian beef sausage, placing it atop a feta butter and mozzarella-covered crust. It offers the satisfaction of cheese bread and breakfast sausage wrapped into one wonderful dish. $$. Lunch Saturday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Of course a pork steak is part of the repertoire. Thick, saucy and served in a foil-lined Styrofoam takeout container, this is original, St. Louis-style barbecue. You’ll want to pair it with barbecue spaghetti, mac and cheese and, if you are feeling extra decadent, an order of the restaurant’s signature snoots — it wouldn’t be a Smoki O’s visit without them. $. Counter service, very limited seating. Closed Sunday and Monday.
The River Lillie
Crown Candy Kitchen
1435 Salisbury Street, 314-833-4335 The River Lillie’s Southern-inflected food is the epitome of daytime comfort. For breakfast, chef/ owner Maggie Hourd-Bryant sticks to the classics, and she does them exceptionally well. Fluffy biscuits are smothered in peppery, sausage-laden gravy that is rich without being overly thick. Those same biscuits serve as the base for a delightful breakfast sandwich. At less than $4, including smothered potatoes and a drink, it’s one of the best breakfast deals around. At lunch, Hourd-Bryant’s Southern style really comes out on dishes such as fried chicken wings, which are coated in a delicate, well-seasoned breading and fried to a gorgeous golden brown. Shrimp and grits swim in a luxurious, velvety texture, while the burger is juicy and well-seasoned. $. Closes daily at 2 p.m. other than Sundays, when it’s open from 12:30 to 5 p.m.
Smoki O’s
1545 North Broadway, 314-621-8180 Smoki O’s roots date back to the late Minnie Muriel Hall Walker, a backyard grill-master. After she passed away, her sons Otis B. Walker Jr. and Bruce A. Walker Sr. opened Smoki O’s to keep her legacy alive, and boy have they succeeded. Together with Otis’ wife Earline, they have created a powerful homage to their mother’s soul-food-style barbecue.
1401 St. Louis Avenue, 314-621-9650 A beloved Old North landmark for more than 100 years, Crown Candy serves up a mean BLT and makes some of the sweetest candy in the city. The scoops of rich ice cream can be ordered in a malt, a sundae, a newport (a sundae with whipped cream and nuts) or banana split form, or just go with a single scoop. There’s also the legendary milkshake — if you can drink five in half an hour, they’re all free. But more than the treats, it’s the old-timey feel at Crown Candy that will put a smile on your face. There’s often a line around the block on Saturdays; why not visit on a weekday? $. Closed Sunday.
Shell City Crab Shack
1330 Aubert Avenue, 314-696-2799 Chef/owner Ryan Martin keeps the menu simple at this tiny counter-service joint, serving seasoned crab, lobster or crab cakes with sides. But simple doesn’t mean small portions, nor does it preclude major flavor. The “Original Platter,” for example, includes two pieces of corn on the cob, two sausages, ten shrimp, a helping of potatoes and five crab legs. Options for sides include sweet potato casserole and a decadent seafood mac and cheese. Shell City is not cheap, but it’s worth it. $$$. Takeout only. Closed Monday. The River Lillie
NORTH CITY Gregg’s Bar & Grill
4400 North Broadway, 314-421-1152 One of the few sit-down restaurants in the industrial north riverfront, Gregg’s is a realm of beer and burgers, of generous fish sandwiches and perfect onion rings. Gregg’s attracts diverse characters and old friends, everyone from cops to construction workers to nearby neighborhood residents. You can get chili or fried chicken or a burger, but you can also get a 12-ounce ribeye, along with dinner salad and baked potato, for $17.95. It’s that kind of place. $. Full bar, patio. Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Jerk Soul
2016 Salisbury Street, 314-601-3871 Telie Woods and Zahra Spencer say their delightful, takeout-only restaurant in Hyde Park is the perfect combination of their two selves. Spencer is represented by the Caribbean side of the menu, with dishes that she grew up learning to cook in her grandmother’s St. Croix kitchen. Specialties such as braised oxtail, jerk wings, curry chicken and Caribbean corn have been passed down for many
MABEL SUEN
MABEL SUEN
Lemmons by Grbic
generations. Woods, meanwhile, brings his Chicago background to dishes he and Spencer describe as “fusion.” Traditional Caribbean specialties like jerk chicken are presented in a Philly cheesesteak sandwich or atop a pizza. And, as Woods attests, there is no better side to pair them with than the macaroni and cheese — his grandmother’s special recipe. $. Takeout only. Open noon to 8 p.m. daily except Saturday.
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Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas
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SOUTH COUNTY Liliana’s Italian Kitchen
11836 Tesson Ferry Road, 314-729-1800 The intoxicating scent of garlic, Parmesan and dough that greets you upon arrival to Liliana’s is a precursor for what’s to come, which really ought to begin with an order of cheese garlic bread. At this charming, old-school Italian joint, chef/owner Tim Pieri dips crusty Italian bread into a concoction of melted butter, garlic and Parmesan, then covers it in mozzarella cheese before placing it in the oven. The result is a cheesy, butter-saturated wonder. Housemade meatballs and eggplant “lasagna” are equally dazzling, while the St. Louis-style pizza may well be the best in town. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Drive-through window for pizza.
Tucker’s Place
3939 Union Road, 314-845-2584 In its nearly four decades in business, Tucker’s Place has grown to three locations, and the south county one is a particularly huge draw for its affordable steaks in an unpretentious setting. Diners can expect choices from filets, sirloins and strips, and unlike the national chains, Tucker’s includes a dinner salad, baked potato and even dinner rolls along with your cut of meat. The lemon-pepper salad dressing is so famous, people buy it by the bottle. $$-$$$. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m., Saturdays at noon and Sundays at 4 p.m. Patio.
Nubby’s
11133 Lindbergh Business Court, 314-200-9123 Destination barbecue in south county? Believe it — even if on first glance the location couldn’t seem less promising. Nubby’s occupies the entire second floor of All American Sports Mall. One room looks over the hockey rinks; the other is a huge, open sports bar complete with a wall of televisions, darts, skee ball and a seating area with leather couches. The neon liquor signs and banners that decorate the room make Nubby’s look like the sort
of county sports bar where you’d find deep-fried finger foods like crab Rangoon and taquitos — and you will, only instead of straight-from-the-deepfreeze junk, they are handmade and based on old family recipes. As for that barbecue, owner/ pitmaster Matt Hines is serving some of the area’s best brisket and a wonderful thick-cut pork steak. $-$$. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m. and Saturday and Sunday at 9 a.m. Open til midnight on weekends.
Twisted Tree Steakhouse
10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-394-3366 Anything you might presume about the Twisted Tree based on its location in a Holiday Inn parking lot will get checked at the door, as the fast food joints and chain stores of Sunset Hills give way to a sophisticated bar that could be a million light years away — or at least several miles to the northeast in Clayton. Dim lighting and sleek, backlit finishes illuminate the lounge, packed with would-be patrons waiting upward of two hours for a table. It’s not just hype; Twisted Tree’s food is worth waiting for. The onion rings are famous, the steaks are expertly cooked and the batter-dipped lobster tails are terrific. Even the salads (made tableside to your specifications) are seriously good. The service, too, is impeccable. $$$$$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Closed Sunday and Monday.)
Yolklore
8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538 Industry veterans Mary and John Bogacki could have done just about anything in the food world, but they chose to focus on breakfast and lunch for their first restaurant, Yolklore. At this counter-service spot, you’ll see the same thought given to bacon and eggs as you’d see in an entrée special at a trendy evening bistro. This results in innovative dishes, such as Yolklore’s signature “Nest Egg,” a biscuit-like shell filled with eggs, bacon, cheese, pickled onion and preserved lemon, and a frittata with goat cheese, mushrooms and tomato jam. Don’t let the innovative menu items fool you, though. Yolklore is equally the place to go for the
old-fashioned comfort of biscuits and gravy or a slinger. And no matter what you choose, you can be in and out in a flash — or simply head through the drive-through for the best fast food you can get. No alcohol. $. Open 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekends. Drive-through window.
Circa STL
1090 Old Des Peres Road, Des Peres; 314-394-1196 Circa STL’s menu is a crash course in the greatest hits of St. Louis restaurant history. The French onion soup proves to be a riff on the soup made, yes, famous at Famous Barr. The house salad comes with an anchovy-forward Mayfair dressing, invented in the 1930s at downtown’s Mayfair Hotel. The “Loaded Garlic Bread Sandwich” — toasted garlic bread with ham, Provel and a sprinkling of paprika — is better known to St. Louisans as a “Gerber” sandwich, brought into being by a place called Ruma’s Deli. The “STL Prosperity” sandwich, invented at the Lemp Mansion, manages to incorporate alfredo sauce on top of ham, turkey and provel. Just what your cholesterol needed! Naturally, there’s also St. Louis-style pizza and chicken modiga, all served in a room positively stuffed with local memorabilia. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. on weekdays and 10 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday.
Pretzel Pretzel
9614 Gravois Road, Affton; 314-631-8000 The pretzels here are New York-style, meaning pillow-soft and golden, and dressed with a generous amount of coarse salt. Traditional twisted pretzels have a squat look to them, while the pretzel nuggets are so fluffy and glistening, they look like beignets. The pretzels and nuggets are alone worth a trip, but Pretzel Pretzel aims to set itself apart from its competitors by also serving stuffed pretzels. About the size of a demi-baguette but slightly pouffier, they’re filled with everything from salsiccia to hot dogs to the signature house-roasted beef, onion, bell pepper and cream cheese-filled Philly cheesesteak. Counter service. $. Opens at 8 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 9 a.m. Sunday and Monday.
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Rosalita’s Cantina
12796 Manchester Road, Des Peres; 314-441-7060 The Des Peres outpost of Wash Ave favorite Rosalita’s Cantina is a Tex-Mex party in the ‘burbs, with a huge bar and friendly service. Naturally, the place is often packed, but if you can withstand the wait, you’ll feast on complimentary chips and salsa and St. Louis-sized portions of favorites like chile rellenos, coconut shrimp and chimichangas. Margarita options include everything from blueberry to a “Vegas” with silver tequila, peach Schnapps, peach puree and fresh lime juice, topped with Red Bull. Happy hour is a major draw. $$-$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m. Saturday. Patio.
MARYLAND HEIGHTS Westport Social
910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-548-2876 The massive, 12,500-square-foot Westport Social is sleek and stylish, with two rooms featuring everything from foosball tables to bocce courts to full-size basketball pop-a-shot setups. Food and drinks match the modern vibe, nodding at classic bar food but transcending the baseness often associated with the genre. The pizza and burgers are both solid choices, and if the nachos show that the kitchen can elevate classic appetizers, the wings prove they can put them on a jewel-crusted pedestal. The plump drummies and wings are smoked, infusing the juicy meat with flavor without overtaking it. $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; open ‘til 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday.
India Palace
12322 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-731-3333 India Palace no longer has its stunning (if confusing to find) location at the top of a tattered Howard Johnson’s, overlooking the lights of Lambert’s runway. It now occupies the former home of Standard Brewing Company, which explains the industrial, modern vibe. Still, what’s important is the food, which remains as good as ever. Lamb vindaloo is the signature dish, but you simply can’t go wrong anywhere on this menu. Kids menu; lunch buffet. $$. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
DD Mau
11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2300 DD Mau’s name roughly translates to “hurry up” or “let’s go.” But for all its speed, the counter-service spot takes no shortcuts. Owner Julie Truong’s food is both innovative and fiercely authentic, customizable yet appealing to fans of traditional Vietnamese food. A vermicelli bowl features such traditional accoutrements as crushed peanuts, cilantro and pickled vegetables, but it can be tossed with a dressing, such as the funky “Vietnamese Vinaigrette,” which infuses it with depth and heat. All 42
bowls come with your choice of protein. Spring rolls, pho and bánh mì round out a perfectly executed menu. No alcohol. $. Open weekdays from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday.
FERGUSON/ FLORISSANT/ HAZELWOOD
The area’s undisputed date-night spot, Cork serves a thoughtful menu of sharable dishes and larger entrees that go beyond the usual cheese and charcuterie you find at most wine bars — although, of course, it has those too. Not to miss are the bar’s thrilling wine flights, curated around a theme like sparkling, full-bodied reds or sweeter style whites. Don’t worry if you are intimidated about pairing cactus tacos or char sui glazed chicken with something to drink. The approachable wait staff has the know-how to guide you in whatever direction you want to go. $$. Patio. Closed Mondays.
Pirrone’s Pizza
Kaslik
1775 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-839-3633 For more 40 years, Pirrone’s Pizza has been serving up quintessential Sicilian-American comfort food in the form of deep-fried cannelloni bites, cheese sticks and salads that consist of little more than iceberg lettuce, Provel and a heavy-handed dousing of dressing. The big draw, however, is the pizza, a rectangular riff on the St. Louis-style cracker crust with cheese just a little bit gooier and sauce a little bit sweeter than the norm. Get it with pepperoni, Italian sausage or hamburger, and revel in the delight of a vibrant orange cheesy grease-slick that pairs perfectly with a frosty mug of draft Bud Light. $$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and Sunday at noon. Lunch buffet available weekdays.
Ferguson Brewing Company
418 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-254-7359 Though you can find Ferguson Brewing Company’s offerings around town, the best place to experience them is at its brewpub, a warm, inviting spot in the heart of historic downtown Ferguson. This is more than simple bar fare; the place has become just as famous for thoughtful food that incorporates its brews, including its famous stout-marinated stuffed mushrooms, beer cheese mac, and fish and chips. With food this delicious, you might forget that the place is, first and foremost, a brewery. The pecan brown ale may be just the reminder you need. $$. Patio. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Cathy’s Kitchen
250 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-9200 Inspired by her culinary trips around the U.S., Cathy Jenkins opened Cathy’s Kitchen as a way for diners to eat their way around the country without ever leaving north county. Her menu is divided not by starters, entrees or sandwiches but by state, each category filled with the specialties she enjoyed from each place. Look for Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, New Orleans jambalaya and Memphis-style pulled pork on this edible road trip in the heart of Ferguson. $. Closed on Sundays. Outdoor seating.
Cork Wine Bar
423 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-521-9463 Sophisticated Cork Wine Bar offers diners in historic downtown Ferguson a selection of elegant wines and equally elegant food to accompany it.
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7847 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Hazelwood; 314-972-8282 Chef and co-owner Wesam Hamed, whose résumé includes such notable spots as Ranoush and Layla, has been cooking his delicious Palestinian fare in north St. Louis County since 2013, first opening in Florissant before moving to Kaslik’s current home. The place is a charmer, with thoughtful touches throughout and equally good food. Hamed’s signature shawarma remains as excellent as always. Likewise, the lamb chops, falafel and hummus are so authentic, you might be convinced you’re sitting on the eastern Mediterranean rather than in the middle of north county. Don’t miss the baklava. No alcohol. $$. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Worldwide International Food Market
7238 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Hazelwood; 314-731-3500 The cafe tucked in the back of the Worldwide International Food Market is tiny and austere, but it’s nevertheless become the culinary go-to for the area’s Arab community. Co-owner Ruqaiah Sumren’s hummus — silken and spiked with just the right amount of garlic and tahini — is perhaps the best in town. Baba ganoush is equally excellent: It’s tart and lemony, with a bitter, fire-roasted undertone that adds depth of flavor. Kalaya, a tapenade of slow-simmered tomatoes and onions, reveals the flavor that can come from just a few simple ingredients. In addition to the à la carte and catering services, the Sumrens run a bakery out of the market. Pita is their bread and butter, but their pastries have quite a following as well. $. Open daily.
Hendel’s Market Café & Piano Bar
599 Saint Denis Street, Florissant; 314-837-2304 Hendel’s Old Town Florissant digs have a colorful past: The century-old storefront used to be a grocer. But there’s nothing old-fashioned about the food. Try the German potato soup with its zippy hint of vinegar or the smoked shrimp en croute; there’s also a full menu of steaks, chicken, fish and pasta. Other perks include enthusiastic, rosy-cheeked service; a comfy dining room; and outside seating in a serene garden. Kids menu. $$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Patio.
MMAABBEELL SSUUEENN
DD Mau
Pearl Cafe
8416 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-831-3701 From a contemporary storefront in the heart of north county, Pearl Café consistently offers what’s arguably the best Thai food in St. Louis, with a voluminous menu of noodles, fried rice, curries and noodle soups. Innovative chef/owner Scott Truong is always looking for ways to reimagine Thai cuisine through dishes like the “Phorito” or “Thai Burger.” Add in an extensive beer selection and 150 single-malt scotches and you’ll see why Pearl Café is so much more than your usual Thai spot. Kids menu. $$. Opens at 10:30 a.m. weekdays and at noon Saturday. Patio.
Thai Kitchen
8458 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-695-5039. Thai Kitchen’s menu consists of familiar Thai dishes, though the recipes are uniquely Andie Ongartsutthikue’s, having been passed down in her mother’s family for generations. Her version of the northern Thai noodle soup khao soi, for instance, is spicier than others. The warm heat is more haunting than assertive, sneaking up on the back palate and lingering. Meanwhile, a tangier, more tomato-forward presentation of curry is the base of the gang quah shrimp, a rich, brothy concoction meant to be served over rice. The star ingredient is pineapple, cut into chunks and warmed by the broth. $-$$. Open for
lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
OVERLAND/ ST. ANN Nick and Elena’s Pizzeria
3007 Woodson Road, Breckenridge Hills; 314-427-6566 Regulars will swear to you that their beloved Nick and Elena’s Pizzeria serves the best version of St. Louis style pizza in town. We have to hand it to them: With its flavorful crust that’s always crisped up just a little more golden brown than the town’s other squares beyond compare, these cracker-thin pies have that ever-so-slight bit of extra heft that makes a St. Louis pie go from good to great. You need that sort of architecture when you’re looking to pile on the pizzeria’s homemade, fennel-kissed Italian sausage — the more the better. $. Closed Mondays. Lunch served Fridays only.
Chuck-A-Burger
9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John, 314-427-9524 Chuck-A-Burger’s menu may be filled with delectable American classics like burgers, fries and malts, but the most wonderful thing served at this north county institution is pure nostalgia. For
more than 50 years, the restaurant has existed as a living slice of history, maintaining the tradition of the quintessential 1950s soda fountain down to its car hops, old-school jukebox soundtrack and classic car cruise nights. This is the culinary version of poodle skirts and saddles shoes, yet it’s anything but passé. Fashions may have changed since Chuck-A-Burger opened for business, but its greasy-spoon diner classics have stood the test of time. No alcohol. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Curb service in addition to inside seating.
Taqueria Durango
10238 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-429-1113 Ask where to find St. Louis’ best Mexican food and many people in the know will point you not to Cherokee Street but Taqueria Durango, the unassuming strip mall taqueria in northwest county. The eatery is serious about its tacos; carnitas, barbacoa and al pastor are available, of course, but they share equal billing with such lesser-found ingredients like lingua, cabeza and pork stomach. Trust the cooks; these off cuts are some of the most tender, flavorful fillers you will find on the menu — that is, if you allow yourself to order anything other than the torta ahogada, a heaping portion of pork and onions cradled between two massive slices of pillow-like bread that have been dipped in fiery red chile sauce. It’s a masterpiece. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
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Haveli
9720 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-423-7300 A nondescript building on a nondescript stretch of Page Avenue is home to an Indian restaurant whose food is anything but nondescript. The kitchen offers a wide selection of chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes, with lists of specials for both omnivores and vegans. Goat curry is a standout, rich and gamy, while Navratan korma is a complex vegetable dish to win over the staunchest carnivore. Lunch and dinner buffets. $$. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Chef Ma’s
2336 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-395-8797 Located in what used to be a Taco Bell, Chef Ma’s offers the standard Americanized Chinese dishes, if that’s your jam — or you can go on a much more interesting journey with the acclaimed chef’s more authentic specialties. The simmering fish stew is delicate, understated cooking, while the twice-cooked pork is decadence incarnate. Or try the Hainan chicken: a boiled, skin-on bird, served room temperature and hacked into large pieces. The ginger-spiked cooking liquid gently infuses the meat with subtle sweetness. No alcohol. $$. Closed Wednesday. Open for lunch and dinner Thursday through Tuesday.
Seoul Garden
10678 St. Charles Rock Road, St. Ann, 314-429-4255 A lengthy menu and the steady patronage of a Korean-speaking clientele mark this spot near Northwest Plaza as an excellent choice for standards such as bulgogi and more exotic selections
MABEL SUEN
Reeds American Table
like yuk hoe, the Korean equivalent of steak tartare. All entrées come with the complimentary Korean appetizers called banchan. Unlike its sister in Creve Coeur, however, you won’t be able to cook your own meat at this Seoul Garden; blame the fire department for that. The all-you-can-eat option remains popular, although your whole table must sign on to qualify. Beer and wine only. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and noon on Sunday.
MAPLEWOOD Elmwood
2704 Sutton Boulevard, Maplewood; 314-261-4708 One of 2019’s most anticipated openings, Elmwood combines the talents of star chef Adam Altnether with a custom-made coal-fired oven. Creative small plates include such unique items as lamb cruda with Indian spicing, mussels with Szechuan flavors and hot-fried chicken livers. Or maybe go big and splurge on a whole grilled black bass or dry-aged ribeye for two. The space is modern without being austere. A thirteen-foot slab of black walnut forms the bar, which has its own separate area — perfect for sampling David Greteman’s cocktails, which include low-proof and no-proof options. $$$. Opens Tuesday through Saturday at 5 p.m.
Acero
7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-644-1790 Long before Maplewood was a dining destination, back when St. Louis’ Italian restaurants were mostly limited to “white sauce or red?” there was Acero:
Jim Fiala’s flawlessly executed spot served nothing like the city had ever seen. More than a decade in, Acero feels as stylish, and essential, as ever, with menu items that include a white anchovy salad with pea shoots and shaved fennel and prosciutto-wrapped pastries called gnocco fritto as well as the expected pasta, fish, steak and rack of lamb. Do not skip the egg raviolo! $$$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 5 p.m. Patio.
Reeds American Table
7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-899-9821 Chef Matt Daughaday’s menu features familiar favorites so subtly nudged toward sophistication that diners may not always realize how good they’ve got it. Consider the braised beef cheeks: Succulent meat the consistency of pot roast is steeped in foiegras cream, then piled atop a thick slice of buttery focaccia. Or try the lamb stew. Daughaday slowcooks lamb necks in a meritage of Middle Eastern spices and harissa, like an exotic chile. Service is friendly, with an excellent wine list. $$$. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m.
Thai Table
7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-449-6919 Thai Table’s pad Thai offers an umami bomb of soy and the complex funk of the fish sauce — just one delight in a parade of dishes that will make you rethink Thai food. The green papaya salad som tum is positively electric, while vibrant lab kai is wipeyour-forehead spicy, with flavors so addictively sour you still won’t be able to stop eating it. And if the noodles are excellent, the curries are positively ethereal. You simply can’t go wrong on this menu.
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No alcohol, although there is boba tea. $$. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Benevolent King
7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-899-0440 From a tiny kitchen on a charming block, restaurateur Ben Poremba is reclaiming his identity as a chef with his most personal concept to date, one that draws its inspiration from his Moroccan-Israeli heritage. Falafel, kalamata tapenade and tabbouleh are all thrilling, though you should order the branzino if you really want to be blown away. And with the talented Tony Saputo in charge of the drink list, what’s in the glass stands shoulder to shoulder with what’s on the plate. Small bistro tables evoke a Moroccan beachside cafe, while the shiny tiled floor and bar-tops give off a swanky vintage feel. $$$$. Opens Tuesday through Saturday at 5 p.m.; open ‘til 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. 7260 Southwest Avenue, Maplewood; 314-241-2337 The Bottleworks is Schlafly’s flagship, and the always-hopping Maplewood location is a massive restaurant, bar, bottling plant, retailer and mini-museum paying homage to St. Louis’ storied brewing history. The well-staffed restaurant serves up thoughtful New American cuisine, and, yes, all the beer you care to drink. Vegetarian-friendly options include everything from a muffuletta and a Cantonese noodle bowl made with tofu. When the weather is warm, the courtyard features live music. $-$$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily. Huge patio.
KIRKWOOD/ WEBSTER GROVES Olive + Oak
102 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-736-1370 Olive + Oak is so popular, it’s virtually impossible to eat there. Reservations book months in advance, and attempting to walk in and secure a barstool, even mid-week, is an exercise in futility. Owner-general manager Mark Hinkle and chef Jesse Mendica spent a good part of their restaurant careers at Annie Gunn’s, and brought with them the west county landmark’s refined approachability, now on display in a stylish yet warm neighborhood eatery. Olive + Oak is the type of restaurant where you can don jeans and a t-shirt and settle into a burger and fries or dress up for cocktails, oysters and a cowboy ribeye for two — all flawlessly executed by Mendica, who has quickly become one of the city’s biggest culinary stars. Now, if we could only get a damn table. $$$$$$$. Opens at 4 p.m. daily. Patio.
Frisco Barroom
8110 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-455-1090 This newcomer fulfills a real need in Webster Groves: It’s a modern American tavern that is nice enough for date night, but not so nice that you
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Schlafly Bottleworks
Balkan Treat Box
have to call a sitter. The restaurant is positively handsome, outfitted in exposed brick, black slate paint, wrought-iron chandeliers and a black tin ceiling. The menu, which includes boards, sandwiches and a few well-thought-out entrees, is interesting without ever venturing from being accessible. $$-$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday, with hours ‘til 1:30 a.m. every day but Sunday. Rooftop dining and a back patio.
smoky cured meat are slick with rendered fat, made even more indulgent with the addition of fonduta, a molten Italian cheese. For dinner, don’t miss the white-cheddar grits, paired with shrimp that is grilled so that its skin picks up just a whisper of bitter char. $$-$$$. Open daily for breakfast and lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday.
Balkan Treat Box
146 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-918-7900 Modern and approachable, the Block doubles as a butcher shop: The meats, cut in-house, are also available for retail sale. Even if you never avail yourself of the butcher component, you’ll find that the Block is a significant and refreshing step up from the ubiquitous lowest-common-denominator neighborhood joint. The menu is an appealing array of contemporary American favorites: steak, roast chicken, braised pork, housemade charcuterie. The steaks are grass-fed and beautifully grilled. Pork is a standout, too, particularly the “Potted Pig” confit served as an appetizer. $$-$$$. Open weekdays for lunch and daily for dinner. Patio.
8103 Big Bend Boulevard, Webster Groves; 314-733-5700 The brick-and-mortar offshoot of a wildly successful food truck, Balkan Treat Box offers fast-casual food from not only Bosnia but also its neighbors. Highlights include somun stuffed with Sarajevo-style cevapi, which looks like a breakfast link but tastes more like Middle Eastern kefta. Chef/owner Loryn Nalic cooks the meat over open flames, encrusting it with wood smoke to give it a slightly crisp texture even as it remains so juicy you’d think it’s been bathed in its drippings. Her Turkish pide, too, is a show-stopper, with glorious, spongy bread, speckled with char, fashioned into the shape of a boat and stuffed with meat or cheese. No alcohol. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
The Clover and the Bee
100 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-942-1216 Olive + Oak’s no-reservations offshoot feels more whimsical than its stylish big sister, adorned in jewel-colored velvet and brass and outfitted with earthy succulents. Sandwiches include a heap of luscious burrata, accented with pine nuts and broccoli pesto, that soaks into a crusty ciabatta roll. Its luxury is matched by a seemingly simple pastrami on rye that is anything but: Piles of the
The Block
RICHMOND HEIGHTS/ BRENTWOOD Mai Lee
8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood; 314-645-2835 Located in a nondescript strip mall in the shadow of a Home Depot, Mai Lee nevertheless packs in not only hungry diners but also some of the city’s top chefs and restaurateurs. Credit founder Lee
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Herbie’s
Del Pietro’s
1059 South Big Bend Boulevard, Richmond Heights; 314-224-5225 The Del Pietro family is serving its trademark oldschool Italian in a sleek, open space, outfitted with neutral tones, exposed brick and white tablecloths. Heartier dishes like “Spaghetti alla Angela,” a cheesy-baked concoction of meatballs, noodles and tomato sauce, call to mind the warm comfort of redand-white checkered tablecloths and wicker-covered Chianti bottles. The house salad may be no more exotic than what you’d see at any of the other Hillstyle Italian restaurants around town, but its flawless execution makes it a thing of beauty. And while many restaurants claim to serve the city’s best toasted ravioli, Del Pietro’s makes a serious play for the crown. Don’t leave without a cannoli. $$-$$$. Opens daily at 5 p.m. Closed Sunday.
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Han Lao
Tran’s flawless Vietnamese food, which includes a repertoire of approximately 200 dishes, each better than the next. Tran originally opened Mai Lee as a Chinese spot in 1985, but earned acclaim after she began introducing the cuisine of her homeland to curious local diners. Tran has garnered a legion of loyalists who appreciate the way the kitchen balances authenticity with accessibility, making everyone feel welcome — from the most experienced noodle slurper to a pho novice. Separate bar area with a good wine list. $$-$$$. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Front patio.
Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium
1170 South Big Bend Boulevard, Richmond Heights; 314-932-5414 Though it’s a small counter-service restaurant, Fozzie’s follows the “more is more” principle. There are twenty sandwiches, almost all of them overstuffed, as well as burgers, hot dogs, gyros, salads, appetizer dips and milkshakes. The legendary “B.A.B.T.L.” (bacon and bacon, lettuce and tomato) is stuffed with a half-pound of bacon, while the awesome “Big Bend Mafia” features Italian-seasoned beef and salsiccia. The signature dish might be the Juicy Lucy, a Minneapolis-St. Paul specialty that consists of a cheeseburger with the cheese stuffed inside the patty. The salads, featuring with vegetables from the restaurant’s own garden, are very good. No alcohol; large takeout operation. $. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Outdoor seating behind the building.
Boundary
7036 Clayton Avenue, 314-932-7818 The upstairs restaurant at the Cheshire Hotel is a sleek, modern space that belies the hotel’s Ye Olde England-style exterior. The room is strikingly handsome and sultry — the kind of place you’d expect to find James Bond sipping a martini after a day of fox hunting. A good raw bar, poutine and Korean-flavored pork ribs anchor a menu focused on small plates, though you could also find bliss with the full-sized entrees here, including scallops and an excellent roasted rainbow trout. The elegant bar wraps around a separate bar area and into the dining room, providing plenty of seating for pre- or post-dinner drinks. $$-$$$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m., with Sunday brunch at 10 a.m.
Basso
7036 Clayton Avenue, 314-932-7820 The downstairs restaurant at the Cheshire Hotel is the basement restaurant all other basement restaurants aspire to be — it feels underground-speakeasy cool, not underground-bunker depressing. Credit the gorgeous space and “Italian gastropub” menu, which in practice means excellent woodfired pizzas and rustic pasta dishes. But its fans aren’t just here for the food; even after being open a half-dozen years, Basso remains one of the hottest bars in town. $$-$$$. Opens daily at 4 p.m.; open ‘til midnight on weeknights and 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
1250 Strassner Drive, Brentwood; 314-932-1354 Located in a strip mall between a Walmart Super Center and a Menard’s, St. Louis’ first Laotian restaurant has the sleek modern look of a new fast-casual place, which is deceiving; not only will a server take your order, but there’s a wine list. You’ll also find excellent versions of Thai staples, including a delightfully funky and peanut-heavy pad Thai and a rendition of pad see ew that is decidedly less sweet than others around town. But if you want to see owner Thom Chantharasy’s skill with traditional Laotian cuisine, your best bet is to order the soups and curries. The red curry is a simmering, sinus-clearing bowl of heat. Yellow curry is gentler up front, but its spice is cumulative; about four bites into the creamy coconut concoction, every part of your mouth is warm and tingling. Or try the khao poon, in which red curry and coconut milk provide spicy decadence to deeply savory pork broth. $$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m.
CLAYTON/LADUE Sardella
7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-773-7755 The stunningly beautiful Sardella is like the Amalfi Coast kitchen of your dreams. Blue and white Mediterranean-inspired tiles cover the walls, vibrant orange banquettes provide seating and jars of preserved citrus sit next to succulents and cookbooks. Fittingly, the Mediterranean-inflected dishes are thoughtful, but also filled with ease, like the mozzarella fritta, topped with the restaurant’s signature Calabrese sauce and Parmesan cheese. For entrees, try mussels and shrimp in a white-wine and tomato sauce or roasted chicken with creamy polenta and sauteed rapini. No matter what you order, you must save room for the olive oil cake. $$$$. Opens daily for dinner at 5 p.m., with brunch at 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Half & Half
8135 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-0719 At Half & Half, Mike and Liz Randolph bring to breakfast and lunch the same level of care, quality and service typically reserved for evening restaurants — and fine-dining ones at that. Now
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with a second location in Webster Groves, Half & Half keeps it approachable with classics such as biscuits and gravy, French toast and blueberry pancakes — only they’re the best versions of each you’ll find anywhere. Add top-shelf coffee offerings and thoughtful service, and it’s early-morning bliss. $$. Opens 7 a.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. weekends; closes at 2 p.m. Closed Monday. Patio.
Herbie’s
8100 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-769-9595 Herbie’s move to Clayton was more of a merger than a simple relocation — which is why loyalists of both the original Herbie’s as well as Cardwell’s will feel nostalgic when they step inside 8100 Maryland Avenue. Chef Bonzo still stands at attention at the front door, and those vintage posters from Herbie’s are still here; the difference is that they hang on walls in a room that is laid out exactly like Cardwell’s. Herbie’s classic lobster mac and cheese exemplifies comfort seafood, while its other signature dish, beef Wellington, remains so for a reason. Live music during weeknight happy hours. Gluten-free and vegetarian menus available. $$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily.
Louie
706 De Mun Avenue, Clayton; 314-300-8188 At Louie, Matt McGuire has created the sort of restaurant where everyone wants to eat — which makes it an incredibly difficult reservation to score. The small, shotgun dining room, simply appointed with wooden tables, exposed ductwork and a wall of striking, floral-print wallpaper, fills quickly. If the dining room is lovely in its simplicity, the food is even more so. A relatively compact menu of Italian-inflected cuisine anchors the restaurant, with pizza, pasta and simple roast chicken executed flawlessly. Bar reserved for walk-in diners. $$$$$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Friday and 5 p.m. on Saturday; closed Sunday.
topped various lists of “sexiest” St. Louis restaurants. The cuisine is unapologetically old-school French: lobster bisque, steak au poivre, trout amandine. Impeccable service; very tiny bar. $$$. Opens at 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Front patio.
Billie-Jean
7610 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-797-8484 Thrillingly modern, with a gorgeous black-andwhite space, Billie-Jean effortlessly slips between owner Zoe Robinson’s contemporary American polish and chef Ny Vongsaly’s Southeast Asian roots, resulting in such wonderful dishes as hamachi crudo, baked quail eggs and its signature mahogany glazed spare ribs. Perfect in every last detail, Billie-Jean was the RFT’s choice for the best new restaurant of 2018. $$$. Opens at 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Front patio.
Peno Soul Food
7600 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-899-9699 Like Italy’s “dirty south,” Peno is brash, casual and infused with the flavors of the ocean. While the menu changes daily, expect dishes you’d be served if you were a guest in someone’s Calabrian beach house. Mussels fra diavolo pairs fresh bivalves with delicate, chile-spiked tomato sauce that begs to be soaked up scarpetta-style with a slice of housemade crusty bread. The same sauce accents sautéed calamari. Served without breading in all of its tentacled beauty, the appetizer is a far cry from
the deep-fried rings you’ll find on most menus. $$$. Opens Tuesday through Sunday at 5 p.m.
The Crossing
7823 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-721-7375 Opened in 1998, the Crossing has stood the test of time — remaining not only relevant, but holding its own in the city’s crème de la crème. The restaurant owes its staying power to owner Jim Fiala’s beautiful fusion of French and Italian cuisine and his prowess with classical techniques, exemplified by dishes like his luscious three-cheese egg ravioli or pan-seared foie gras with berries. Fiala was doing “farm to table” long before it was a buzz word. $$$$. Opens weekdays at 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. on Saturday. (Closed Sunday.)
Truffles Restaurant
9202 Clayton Road, Ladue; 314-567-9100 Chef Brandon Benack’s oft-changing menu fuses rustic northern Italian cuisine with the local, seasonal produce of the Midwest. The pastas are exquisite, and appetizers like roasted bone marrow and housemade burrata will make it difficult to save room for the main course, but with such good seafood and meat options (including a full roster of steaks, served black and blue, Tuscan style or à la Oscar), you must. The adjacent Truffles Butchery is strictly a grab-andgo operation, offering not just a line of sandwiches but also soup, fresh-baked bread and takeaway pot pies. Wine list has received numerous awards. $$$$. Open daily for dinner. Billie-Jean
Pastaria
7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-6603 Acclaimed chef Gerard Craft turns his attention to Italian cuisine at Pastaria, a large, bustling restaurant in downtown Clayton. The cuisine is simple, affordable and — for the price (there’s nothing over $20) — outrageously good. Pasta, made in house, features in dishes both simple (the sublime chitarra aglio e olio) to the sexy and sophisticated (the luscious pistachio ravioli). Pizzas are Neapolitan-style, on a thin crust. You can opt for an American-style pepperoni pie, its meat cured by the restaurant, or a more ambitious pizza with Brussels sprouts, lemon, béchamel sauce and lardo. Save room for dessert, especially the gelati. Family-friendly. No reservations; expect a wait. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Bar Les Frères
MABEL SUEN
7637 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-725-8880 This gloriously sexy, red-walled boîte in Clayton looks and feels like a private club, which is perhaps why it’s become insiders’ go-to spot for wining and dining prospective partners. It’s impossible not to fall in love within this low-lit French restaurant, which has been named the most romantic in the state and also RIVERFRONT TIMES | A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019
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Wonton King
8116 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-567-9997 The dim sum spread here is one of the best in town. However, there is so much more to Wonton King than what rolls by the table every Saturday and Sunday. The Hong Kong-style eatery boasts a menu of expertly prepared dishes, including traditional congee made with everything from preserved egg to pork to kidney; fiery hot pots; Hong Kong-braised noodles. And the true mark of this restaurant’s greatness is the whole roasted duck, a feat of culinary prowess that combines crispy skin with incredibly juicy meat. The only thing better than this delectable dish is pairing it with an array of dim sum selections for a feast that is fit for a king. Beer and wine only. $$-$$$. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Cart service Saturday and Sundays.
Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria
J E N N I F E R S I LV E R B E R G
8111 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-0666 Less a restaurant than an institution, Frank & Helen’s Pizzeria has been firing up its charcoal broiler since 1956, solidifying its place as the go-to spot for three generations of University City families. You’ll find the same cheesy-baked pastas, the same char-grilled ribeyes with sides of fettuccini and, of course, the same broasted chicken — a special way of pressure-frying the bird that results in impossibly succulent meat and a crispy, non-greasy coating. But if there is one thing you must order at Frank & Helen’s, it’s the pizza, one of the best St. Louis-style thin-crust pies in town. Beer and wine only. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner and dinner only on Saturday and Sunday.
Cate Zone Chinese Cafe
Mission Taco Joint
THE LOOP/ UNIVERSITY CITY/ OLIVETTE Tai Ke
8604 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-801-8894 The first restaurant in St. Louis dedicated solely to Taiwanese cuisine is anchored by “Street Snacks,” tapas-sized items intended to be eaten with your hands as you walk around Taipei’s Blade Runner-style night markets. But those aren’t the only areas where this low-key full-service restaurant shines. Small plates like pig’s ear cartilage and “Sticky Rice Cube,” a platter of congealed pieces of pork blood interspersed with rice to form a handful of gelatinous cakes, are surprisingly approachable. Among entrees, “Three Cup Tofu,” with pillow-soft squares of bean curd tossed in a mouth-watering
sauce that is equal parts rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil, redefines comfort food. $$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum
8224 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-997-3108 The grand entrance sets you up for what follows at Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum; what awaits you at this festively decorated University City institution is no less than a multi-sensory feast. Lu Lu is fiercely authentic. The restaurant has four chefs from four different regions in China and one chef dedicated solely to dim sum, resulting in dishes that are created by experts in the cuisine of their origin. Yet as traditional as Lu Lu may be, what sets it apart is a welcoming spirit that embraces first-timers as warmly as old hands. Lazy susan tables make exploration particularly easy for big parties. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and at 10:30 a.m. Sunday. Cart service on Saturday.
8148 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-738-9923 The “Hot Crisp Fish” at Cate Zone is one of those defining dishes that make you fall in love with a restaurant. Whole peppers accompany hunks of panko-breaded whitefish, staining the breadcrumbs bright orange. Sichuan peppercorns — all five types — speckle the vibrant red chiles coating your mouth with a menthol tingle. It’s just one of the show-stopping offerings at this modern Chinese restaurant. The cumin lamb is dazzling, the “Honey Crisp Sweet Potatoes” a majestic, cotton candy-like concoction of spun sugar and the Korean cold noodle soup so funky with bean curd it could’ve been made by George Clinton. No alcohol. $$. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Seoul Taco
6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-863-1148 In less than a decade, Seoul Taco has gone from a wildly popular food truck to a tiny brick-andmortar to a much bigger one — and locations from Columbia to Champaign to Chicago. The flagship is a low-lit, street-art-infused spot on the Loop, with modern Korean-inflected fusion fare served from a counter to the neighborhood’s
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young, hip denizens. If you’ve ever had the bulgolgi burrito, packed with mouthwatering kimchi-fried rice, you’ll see how a humble truck built a Midwestern Korean-Mexican empire. $. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
Salt + Smoke
6525 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-727-0200 Salt + Smoke serves the best brisket in town. That’s not controversial. What may be a little more contentious, though, is an even bolder statement — Salt + Smoke serves some of the best brisket in the country. Tom Schmidt opened this full-service, bourbon-centric barbecue spot in 2014, at a time when every food publication in town was noting the over-saturation of the barbecue market. But Schmidt knew he was on to something, and his killer ‘cue proves his point. From the type of wood used to smoke the beef (post oak, of course) to the eighteen-hour smoke time, Salt + Smoke is the real deal — one reason it’s in the process of expanding its footprint from the Loop to south city to the Central West End and St. Charles. If you’re not a barbecue person, order a dish of the white cheddar “Cracker Mac” and try not to fall in love. $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Sidewalk dining. Late-night menu starts at 9 p.m.
Frida’s
622 North and South Road, University City; 314-727-6500 Natasha Kwan’s stylish vegetarian restaurant isn’t just free of meat; it’s also largely free of oil, butter and even sugar. That the food remains tasty is no small feat — but nearly six years in, Kwan has earned an army of passionate regulars who swear by her flavorful pizzas, burritos, tacos and salads. In fact, when Frida began serving the Impossible burger, many regulars balked; they simply liked the restaurant’s longstanding “Frida Burger” better. Today you can get both iterations, along with expertly chosen toppings. Baked “skinny fries” complete the surprisingly healthy order. $$. Open 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday with Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sidewalk seating.
Simba Ugandan
8531 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-222-9029 A festive restaurant with yellow, red and green walls and contemporary African pop music videos playing on TV, Simba offers a series of delectable dishes. Chapati, a thin fry bread that is like a cross between naan and a tortilla, works both on its own and as a delectable way of soaking up Simba’s various curries. The bread is also the main component of the “Rolex,” a fried roulade of bread, vegetables and egg. Pan-fried beef is intensely seasoned, with a spice blend somewhere between red curry and a black-peppery Memphis barbecue rub. Paired with fried rice, it’s otherworldly, while curried goat is firstrate. Service can be leisurely. No alcohol. $-$$. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.
The Mad Crab
8080 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-801-8698 At the Mad Crab, there is butcher paper on the tables, and people eat with their plastic-gloved hands straight out of a bag, palming whole red potatoes and hunks of andouille sausage Henry VIII style. There are no plates, no flatware and the prevailing way to drink a beer seems to be out of a plastic cup with a straw. It’s a wild scene, but everyone seems to be having a spectacular time. You can go the à la carte route, choosing from a selection of seafood such as crawfish, shrimp or lobster, or get a combination seafood boil, which includes potatoes, sausage and corn. All styles are dressed in one of four sauces and spiced on a four-point scale, ranging from mild to “I Can’t Feel My Mouth.” If the price tag gives you sticker shock, consider that one combo at the mid-range price point gives four adults enough leftovers to make two additional meals. $$$$. Opens at 3 p.m. weekdays and noon Saturday and Sunday.
Sze Chuan Cuisine
7930 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-925-8755 The sister to a Chicago eatery, Sze Chuan opened in 2018 with a large menu full of classic Szechuan dishes and Americanized favorites, with servers prepared to guide you in either language. Dishes like Brussels sprouts come out on a griddle that keeps them bubbly hot while you eat. Other dishes, like the chef’s special chicken, will sear you with a different type of heat. Be mindful of the spice levels indicated on the menu; those dark-red Sichuan peppers dotting many dishes are no joke. Portions are made for sharing. $$. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Wednesday.
Mission Taco Joint
6235 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-932-5430 Inspired by spots in San Francisco’s Mission District, brothers Adam and Jason Tilford opened the first Mission Taco Joint on the Loop in 2013, bringing a breezy, West Coast-style street taco shack to St. Louis. Mission Taco Joint begins with a respect for traditional tacos, then infuses the form with culinary creativity, resulting in offerings like slow-roasted duck with ancho chile glaze, wood-fired portobella mushrooms with goat cheese and succulent beef brisket birria. And did we mention the margaritas? $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; kitchen stays open until 12:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday.
Fork & Stix
549 Rosedale Avenue, 314-863-5572 Tucked in a small storefront off a side street on the eastern edge of the Loop, Fork & Stix focuses on food from the country’s northern “second city,” Chiang Mai. That includes the fiery nam prik num, a chile dip served with vegetables and rice, and
8106 Olive Boulevard, University City; 314-989-0283 At Private Kitchen, prospective diners select their dishes in advance of their visit, thereby setting up their own, personalized menu. The selection is huge, peppered with options from whole Peking duck to sea cucumber rice to slow-cooked pork knuckles, and even though its format is a traditional board of fare, there’s a mystique that comes from an advance order for a tailor-made dinner, sight unseen. It’s having a customized dinner party cooked by a private chef, only within a room full of other patrons. And what a chef; Lawrence Chen is an enormous talent capable of taking food lovers on a surprising ride, even if you are the one who chooses the destination. $$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. daily; closed Tuesday. Cate Zone Chinese Cafe RIVERFRONT TIMES | A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019
MABEL SUEN
Private Kitchen
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A ST. LOUIS FAVORITE
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A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019 | RIVERFRONT TIMES
MABEL SUEN
Nudo House
the lovely, lemongrass-perfumed pork sausages called sai oua. Every last dish is prepared with the same care you’d find in the area’s top fine-dining restaurants, but if one thing stands above the rest, it’s the khao soi, a yellow curry egg noodle soup so revelatory it’s haunting. No alcohol. $$. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Taco Buddha
7405 Pershing Avenue, University City; 314-502-9951 Taco Buddha brings the flavors, and style, of the Southwest to a small but stylish space on a leafy corner of University City. A deft touch is evident in the vibrant flavors on offer, including the succulent shredded beef barbacoa. The “spicy-sweet” pork version is equally good, while tandoori chicken tacos have become a fan favorite for their blend of warmth and sweet with a touch of heat from an accompanying red chile cream. Breakfast tacos give you a reason to come by early; first-rate margaritas may entice you to stay late. $-$$. Open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Saturday, with dinner Friday and Saturday and brunch Sunday. Large patio.
Share Sweet
9628 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-279-1350 A small letterboard on the back wall of Share Sweet urges you to “try something amazing,” and there are plenty of options right on site. “Cheese tea” has been a sensation in Shanghai in recent years and Share Sweet was the first to bring it to St. Louis. The counter-service restaurant also serves a limited menu of savory snacks, including chicken wings, fries and fried calamari, but the main focus is on desserts. Familiar East Asian flavors — red
beans, taro balls, mango, coconut, matcha — make appearances in herbal jellies, sago puddings and mousses. Waffles provide a more Western alternative. $. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Sugarfire Smoke House
9200 Olive Boulevard, Olivette; 314-997-2301 Sugarfire Smoke House is a perennial readers’ choice favorite for best barbecue, as well as in the increasingly crowded fast-casual category. And rightly so: What could be faster or more efficient than going through Sugarfire’s cafeteria-style line and choosing among the numerous cuts of smoked meat and creative sides? The only thing that might slow your journey toward overeating is the way Mike Johnson’s growing chain comes up with new and intriguing options on every visit. The Olivette flagship is surprisingly big and often busy, but don’t worry: The line moves fast. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Patio.
WEST COUNTY Annie Gunn’s
the wait and begin hatching a plan to come back again ASAP. Not into steak? Burgers, sandwiches and specialties like smoked shrimp are all excellent choices. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m. Closed Monday. Patio.
Balaban’s
1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield; 636-449-6700 An homage to the late, much-lamented Central West End restaurant, this Balaban’s is more casual than its predecessor (it shares space with a first-rate wine shop, which tells you a bit about the cafe-like ambiance). The food is just as you’ve remembered it, though, with both bistro fare and classic Balaban’s dishes — cucumber bisque, heart of palm salad, beef Wellington. The best bet might be the flatbread pizza; there’s a great version with spinach, fontina cheese and caramelized onions. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 10 a.m., with dinner daily except Sunday. Sunday brunch buffet. Patio.
El Toluco
16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield; 636-532-7684 More pub than club, Annie Gunn’s is not the kind of place you get dressed up for. Still, the food is as good as it gets, with an on-premises SmokeHouse Market, where meats are cured, dry-aged and hand cut. If you don’t have a reservation, securing a table might take as long as three hours. But when you sink your teeth into Chef Lou Rook III’s grilledto-order ribeye and get your mitts around a glass of red from the 700-bottle list, you’ll forget all about
14234 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-686-5444 Since opening as a grocery store in the summer of 2016 (the in-house taqueria opened about six months later), El Toluco has become a gathering place for St. Louis County’s growing Latin community. The restaurant is bare-bones, but guacamole and various handcrafted sauces, ranging from mild to fiery, are prepared daily. Tacos, burritos, chile relleno and other Mexican favorites are all available at shockingly low prices. The grocery stocks Mexican delicacies, including meats, juices, desserts, produce and Mexican Coke. Beer and wine only. $. Opens at 9 a.m. daily; closed Monday.
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Local Chef Kitchen
Wudon
15270 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-220-3212 Local Chef Kitchen is founded on the idea that good local food doesn’t have to be relegated to upscale restaurants. In that spirit, Local Chef Kitchen follows the fast-casual model. But don’t expect a foil-wrapped burrito — in roughly five minutes, chef Robert Uyemura and his team produce wholesome meals on real plates with real silverware. In their hands, humble Salisbury steak becomes a gourmet meal with Wagyu beef and peppery portobello mushroom gravy. The sautéed Atlantic sole ranks among the finest cooked seafood in the area. Even beans and rice — a simple dish straight from Missouri’s bootheel — are otherworldly. The menu changes frequently, but one thing stays the same: It’s always delicious. No alcohol. $$. Closed Monday. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. weekends.
1261 Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur; 314-628-1010 Since opening in 2016, Wudon has developed quite a following among the area’s Korean community. The crowd means you’ll be bumping into other patrons, hovering over the tables as others eat and risking a burn as servers rush by with searing hot griddles. This bustling scene, however, contributes to Wudon’s festive atmosphere. Guests at Wudon are treated to a kaleidoscope of impossibly fresh banchan — crisp cabbage kimchi, snappy bean sprouts, ginger-scented root vegetables, funky fish cakes. But only a fool would fail to save room for the barbecue. Cooked tabletop to your specifications, it’s absolutely delicious. You might also want to try the kitchen’s transcendent osam-bulgolgi, or spicy squid and pork belly. $$-$$$. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Nippon Tei
Nudo House
14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-386-8999 With chef Nick Bognar in the kitchen, his family’s longtime eatery Nippon Tei is not simply a different restaurant — it’s the best sushi restaurant in town. Bognar has kept the utilitarian black-accented blonde wooden tables and chairs and Japanese-inspired artwork. The menu, however, has been completely rethought. Gyoza is unlike any other version in town. Chile-garlic noodles are sensational. Even the chicken-fried rice is terrific. And that’s not mentioning the sushi, which is nothing short of breathtaking. It may look low-key, but Nippon Tei is now a must-visit. $$-$$$. Open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner, with lunch Tuesday through Friday.
11423 Olive Boulevard, Creve Coeur; 314-274-8046 Behind Nudo House’s fast-casual model is a decidedly slow-food ethos, with broths and meats simmering and marinating for days to maximize flavor. The restaurant’s signature “Classic Nudo” shows how much beauty can come from taking so much time and care with food. Tender slices of pork belly marinate for two days and are then braised before being allowed to grace the masterful pork tonkatsu broth, which tastes as if the entire essence of pork has been distilled into one spoonful. Vegetarians, meanwhile, should thrill to the “Shroomed Out.” It has the luxurious texture
typically reserved for cream-based soups, with a deep umami taste that mimics the satisfaction of beef stew. With ramen this good, it’s no wonder Nudo House has been positively packed since its opening. $$. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Dalie’s Smokehouse
2951 Dougherty Ferry, Valley Park; 636-529-1898 The newest iteration of the Pappy’s Smokehouse empire, Dalie’s Smokehouse offers barbecue that’s every bit as delicious as its siblings. There is pulled pork and turkey, brisket and pastrami. There are ribs, a half-rack or full. The sauces are on the side, the original a tangy one in the Memphis style. You can also try a thinner vinegary sauce à la the Carolinas, or three others, all with varying degrees of heat. Unlike its siblings, at Dalie’s you can get barbecue nachos, made with Billy Goat chips. And while the ribs have the same apple-spiced glaze as Bogart’s, here they are finished with “Papa Joe” Dalie’s sauce, which, like the restaurant itself, takes its name from co-founder Skip Steele’s grandfather. Counter service. Beer and wine only. $$. Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. Patio.
Katie’s Pizza and Pasta Osteria
14171 Clayton Road, Town and Country, 636-220-3238 Katie’s second location is a stunner, with a mirrored bar lit by large, round, vintage white bulbs that make the entire room seem as if it is twinkling. But Katie’s has substance, not just style, serving thoughtful, approachable food with near-flawless execution. “Katie’s Famous Fried Artichokes” dazzle, while Brussels sprouts are perfectly charred and glazed in an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce balanced with salty pancetta. And while the pizza is very good, chef Katie Lee-Collier could teach a master class in pasta. $$-$$$. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. weekends. Patio.
ST. CHARLES COUNTY
MABEL SUEN
Pangea
Pangea
3245 Rue Royale, St. Charles; 636-757-3579 At Pangea, rising star chef Jessie Gilroy is cooking a menu of creative comfort food designed to appeal as much to a couple on date night as a family looking to grab a casual dinner. Situated in a large, light-filled dining room that feels both new and old at the same time, Pangea offers a spectrum of dishes that both nudges less-than-adventurous diners out of their comfort zones and gives them a safety net. No matter which route you choose, however, you’ll be greeted with beautifully executed food. Loaded fries and pork belly sliders start things off; from there, why not have a double-patty smashburger? Kids menu. $$. Opens daily at 5 p.m. Closed Sunday. “No Menu Mondays” offer a threecourse tasting menu with different specials and a different price point each week.
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Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas
325 South Main Street, St. Charles; 636-724-3434 Set in a historic home just off the cobblestone streets of Old Town St. Charles, Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas charms diners with its cozy atmosphere, which includes both exposed brick and a fireplace. The menu is an eclectic array of Spanish small plates, such as chorizo-stuffed dates, fried calamari and spicy pork and beef meatballs. Bella Vino also offers several pastas and flatbreads; try the lamb and mushroom canneloni for something different. Desserts are made in-house, and the gooey butter cake is a standout. $$$. Opens Tuesday through Thursday at 4:30 p.m. and Friday through Sunday at 11 a.m. Patio overlooks the street.
Roux Royale Bar & Bistro
Prasino
1520 South Fifth Street, St. Charles; 636-277-0202 A bastion of eco chic in the middle of the Streets of St. Charles, Prasino offers hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, sustainable seafood and organic produce. The ambitious menu changes seasonally and offers everything from sushi to tacos to a pork steak smothered in Fitz’s Root Beer barbecue sauce. Numerous vegetarian-friendly dishes include a portobello burger and a tofu entree served with spinach, roasted apple, pumpkin and peanuts. Carnivores would be wise not to miss the short ribs. Drinks boast a farm-to-bar philosophy as well. $$$$$$. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m. and weekends at 8 a.m.; open until 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
METRO EAST BEAST Craft BBQ
20 South Belt W, Belleville, Illinois; 618-257-9000 Is the best barbecue in St. Louis actually in Belleville? When the RFT’s critic raised that question in 2015, it may have felt like heresy, but in the years since, as St. Louis food lovers have steadily made pilgrimages east to see for themselves, the theory has gained numerous converts. At BEAST, David Sandusky is running a casual, counter-service smokehouse with exacting standards and only the finest products — Compart Farms’ Duroc pork, Waygu beef from Snake River Farms. The result: a pork steak that’s become the standard upon which all other pork steaks are judged, transcendent pork belly and brisket so good you simply can’t stop eating it. “I want to be the best in the nation,” Sandusky
J E N N I F E R S I LV E R B E R G
3331 Rue Royale, St. Charles; 636-925-0941 Roux Royale is a laidback New Town spot perfect for drinks, dinner or both. Try New Orleans-inspired specials including crab cakes, gumbo, po’boys and blackened salmon, or just nurse a mojito while enjoying live music. Creole pasta, studded with shrimp, Andouille sausage, chicken and roasted red peppers, is a longtime favorite. Shaded by trees and illuminated with twinkling lights, the patio is one of the prettiest around. $$. Opens Tuesday through Friday at 3 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday at 11 a.m. Open til 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Patio. Cleveland-Heath
says. It’s not out of the question. Beer and wine only. $$. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Cleveland-Heath
29 cents apiece. Live music keeps things noisy. 21 and older. $. Open 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday through Sunday. Huge patio.
106 North Main Street, Edwardsville, Illinois; 618-307-4830 Founders Jennifer Cleveland and Ed Heath are no longer at their namesake restaurant, but the food remains stellar, from the best cheddar biscuits you’ve ever had to a pork “porterhouse” as juicy and flavorful as a dry-aged steak. Oh, and the steak (served with potatoes roasted tender and then deep-fried crisp, with deep-fried Brussels sprouts to boot) is pretty sweet, too. Don’t let the unpretentious vibe fool you: Like the food, the service and attention to detail are top-notch. No reservations; prepare to wait. $$$. Opens at 11 a.m. weekdays and 10 a.m. weekends.
423 West Hanover Street, New Baden, Illinois; 618-588-5141 David Stidham’s counter-service smokehouse has become a destination for barbecue lovers thanks to its traditional “low and slow” methods and top-quality meat. Sample the delectable smoked turkey breast or competition ribs and you’ll see why. Sides are à la carte and include creamy mac and cheese, “Swine Rinds” and apple-baked beans studded with chunks of brisket. For dessert, try the blackberry cobbler. Beer and wine only. $$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
Fast Eddie’s Bon Air
Bakers & Hale
1530 East Fourth Street, Alton, Illinois; 618-462-5532 Fast Eddie’s may or may not be, as one of its brochures boasts, the “No. 1 volume bar in the world.” Nonetheless, this 80-year-old, 400-seat institution is almost always packed. Here you can get filling if not elaborate meals for just a couple of bucks as long as you’re willing to buy a drink while you’re there and retrieve your own meal from the counter. The menu has a total of seven items, the most expensive being a beef-tenderloin kebab called a “Big Elwood on a Stick,” topping out at a whopping $1.99. A half-pound “Fat Eddie” hamburger is 99 cents, and individual jumbo shrimp are a steal at
A Fine Swine
7120 Montclaire Avenue, Godfrey, Illinois; 618-433-9748 Chef Kelsi Baker Walden, a veteran of 360, Basso and Boundary, opened this spot with her former boss and mentor, acclaimed chef Rex Hale. He’s since since shifted to a consulting role, but his touch lives on in the “American comfort food” menu at this farm-to-table spot. Reasonably priced options include tacos, pizzas and sandwiches, as well as creative small plates for sharing. An expert cocktail list and solid choices for both local beer on tap and wine by the glass add to the fun. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Monday and Wednesday through Saturday, as well as 9 a.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday. Patio.
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A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019 | RIVERFRONT TIMES
RIVERFRONT TIMES | A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis 2019
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