Riverfront Times, City Guide 2021 by Riverfront Times

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY WHISKEY SPECIALTY, 35% ALC. BY VOL., (70 PROOF.) JACK DANIEL DISTILLERY, LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE. JACK DANIEL’S, TENNESSEE FIRE, AND TENNESSEE HONEY ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS. ©2021 JACK DANIEL’S. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Table of CONTENTS Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Doyle Murphy

E D I T O R I A L Art Director Evan Sult Contributors Cheryl Baehr, Daniel Hill, Stephen Kennedy, Jack Killeen, Jaime Lees, Riley Mack, Mabel Suen, Danny Wicentowski P R O D U C T I O N Production Manager Haimanti Germain M U LT I M E D I A A D V E R T I S I N G Advertising Director Colin Bell Account Managers Emily Fear, Jennifer Samuel Multimedia Account Executive Chuck Healy, Jackie Mundy Digital Sales Manager Chad Beck Director of Public Relations Brittany Forrest C I R C U L AT I O N Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers E U C L I D M E D I A G R O U P Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein www.euclidmediagroup.com N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G VMG Advertising 1-888-278-9866, vmgadvertising.com

Introduction by Doyle Murphy

Takin’ a Ride by Jaime Lees

Go Play Outside by Daniel Hill

Feed Your Adventure

by Cheryl Baehr

Seek and Ye Shall Find (Maybe) by Jack Killeen

Head for the Hills

by Danny Wicentowski

Chase a New View by Riley Mack

Riverfront Times PO Box 179456, St. Louis, MO, 63117 www.riverfronttimes.com General information: 314-754-5966 Founded by Ray Hartmann in 1977

Riverfront Times is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader. Additional copies of the current issue may be purchased for $1.00 plus postage, payable in advance at the Riverfront Times office. Riverfront Times may be distributed only by Riverfront Times authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Riverfront Times, take more than one copy of each Riverfront Times' City Guide. The entire contents of Riverfront Times are copyright 2021 by Riverfront Times, LLC. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the expressed written permission of the Publisher, Riverfront Times, PO Box 179456, St. Louis, Mo, 63117. Please call the Riverfront Times office for back-issue information, 314-754-5966.

On the COVER: SPONSORED BY JACK DANIELS

Photo by Videll Phillip at The Last Hotel, part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Welcome to City Guide 2021: St. Louis Outside IN A LOT of ways, St. Louis is a car

city. Public transit is limited, our communities tend to sprawl haphazardly, cut off over the years by ill-planned highways and a long history of weirdly placed development. Before work-fromhome-life swept across the country, it sometimes felt like we had to live in our vehicles just to get through the weekly commutes and grocery runs. But there is also St. Louis outside. We’ve got world-class parks, public art of the official and not-so-official variety, enterprising concert producers who are hellbent on staging more music in the open air and an ever-growing network of bike paths. We may be like a lot of other Midwestern cities that rely on cars for the boring, getting-around stuff, but we are pretty damn good at finding the fun

outside. In this year’s edition of the Riverfront Times’ annual City Guide, we’re touring a collection of the best places to go once you’ve walked out the door and parked your car. This is the city in the sun and under the stars. It’s St. Louis by foot, wheelchair, bike and scooter. If you’re not out there, you’re missing a lot of what St. Louis has to offer. So this is your push to get started. We’ve got suggestions for adventures and lazy afternoons. And if you get hungry — or thirsty — along the way, we’ve got RFT food critic Cheryl Baehr’s picks for restaurants near your favorite outdoor attractions. So if you’ve had enough of indoors to last a lifetime, consider this an invitation to the fun parts of St. Louis. —Doyle Murphy

Photo: Paul Sableman/Flickr

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

HERE’S WHE

MAKE IT

IN STORES Schnucks Multiple Locations

Dierbergs Markets Multiple Locations Total Wine & More Multiple Locations Dogwood Wine & Spirits 15678 Manchester Rd, Ellisville, MO 63011 Randall’s Wine & Spirits Multiple Locations Arena Liquor 1217 Hampton Ave, St. Louis, MO 63139 A1 Liquor 3336 Pershall Rd, St. Louis, MO 63135 On the Rocks Premium Liquor & Wine 1976 S Old Hwy 94, St Charles, MO 63303 Friar Tuck Multiple Locations Royals Liquor Multiple Locations Dirt Cheap Multiple Locations Discount Wine & Spirits 3821 Elm St, St Charles, MO 63301

PLEASE DRINK WHISKEY SPECIALTY, 35% ALC. BY VOL., (70 PROOF.) JACK DANIEL DISTILLERY, LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE. JACK DANIEL’S,

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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ERE YOU CAN

T COUNT

RESTAURANTS & BARS Sports & Social 651 Clark Ave, St. Louis, MO 63102

DB’s Sports Bar 1615 S Broadway, St. Louis, MO 63104 The Marquee 1911 Locust St, St. Louis, MO 63103 Ember 4121 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, MO 63110 Helen Fitzgerald 3650 S Lindbergh Blvd, St. Louis, MO 63127 PBR 601 Clark Ave #202, St. Louis, MO 63102 JP Fields 15 N Central Ave, Clayton, MO 63105 Mattinglys 8108 N Lindbergh Blvd, Florissant, MO 63031 Nara Cafe 1326 Washington Ave, St. Louis, MO 63103 Firebirds 1501 Beale St, St Charles, MO 6330 63303 Hotshots - Multiple locations Traffic Jam 6 Westbury Dr C, St Charles, MO 63301

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Takin’ a RIDE The Most Beautiful BIKE PATHS in St. Louis By Jaime Lees

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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OPENING PAGE :

Wicentowski |

Get ready to ride on one of the St. Louis metro's many (growing) bike paths. Photo: Danny Bike paths are your surest way to clean air and abundant greenery. Photo: Paul Sableman/Flickr

LEFT :

AFTER BEING COOPED up

for a solid year, we’re ready to get outside and get some fresh air. One of the best ways to do that is riding a bike. Not only will you feel free, you’ll also be building lung power, which we learned from the pandemic is pretty important. Binge watching television can only stimulate the brain so much. If you want to see what the outside world has to offer to thrill your eyeballs, these are three of the most beautiful places to bike in St. Louis.

Gravois Greenway

Part of the extensive web of bike paths around St. Louis called the Great Rivers Greenway, the Gravois Greenway is a

lovely way to see both nature and beautiful neighborhoods.. The path stretches from the River des Peres (right near the city/county line) all the way down around Affton, on through Shrewsbury before ending in Kirkwood. In addition to getting a good look at Grant’s Farm, riders can stop to fish, swim or enjoy wildlife on their trip. Along the way, the Gravois Greenway offers restrooms, playgrounds, benches, tables, bike racks, drinking water and historic sites that are great to check out during a rest.

Mississippi Greenway

Commonly known as the “Riverfront Trail,” this stretch of bike path runs from

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Great Rivers Greenway now has more than 120 miles of paths, including the Gravois Greenway. Photo: Paul Sableman/Flickr

Chouteau all the way up to the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge. The paved 11.8-mile ride stands out from most others in town because not only does it follow the edge of the Mississippi River, it affords riders a great view of nature and the majesty of the old industrial riverfront area. Trail riders can stop to explore historical sites, fish or enjoy amenities like restrooms, benches, tables, bike racks and drinking water. Many riders pack a picnic lunch to stop and eat along the banks of the mighty Mississippi — something we locals should really be doing more often. The power and the beauty of the river are unmatched.

Forest Park Dual Recreational Path A classic St. Louis exercise spot, the

Forest Park Dual Recreational Path has been attracting riders for decades. The 5.7-mile path was built for bikers and runners, with the easier-on-the-knees gravel part intended for runners and a smooth asphalt section for bikers. This wheels-and-heels path loops along the perimeter of the park, offering riders a great way to appreciate the beauty (and magnitude) of all 1,326 acres of Forest Park including its lakes, birds, wildflowers, ponds and tunnels. There is nothing but beauty and awe to be found in Forest Park. In addition to the wildlife and fresh air, bikers may also stop to take in attractions like the James S. McDonnell Planetarium, the Missouri History Museum, the Forest Park Golf and the Saint Louis Zoo, which are all just off the path. n

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

Go PLAY Ou 24

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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By Daniel Hill

utside

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LIVE MUSIC continues in the open air RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

AFTER MORE THAN a year of

our new, pandemic-centered normal, Drew Jameson has things pretty well figured out. As owner and talent buyer for the promotion company Jamo Presents, Jameson was forced to adapt his whole way of doing business when COVID-19 came to the St. Louis area. At the time, he was booking for the outdoor pavilion stage of the now-defunct Atomic Cowboy. When the pandemic started, Jameson went from working a steady gig at a dedicated venue to the uncertainty that comes when the government announces that gathering in a crowd of people could spell sickness or death for all parties involved. Jameson knew that he and his team would have to be deliberate in their planning if they were to host events safely. For months, they huddled and devised a way for live music to resume in the city of St. Louis, ultimately launching a concert series at a pop-up outdoor venue situated at the intersection of Cerre and Seventh

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streets, dubbed the Lot. “It’s a ton of unknown risks to even be operating a business at that point in time, right? No one knew what to expect,” Jameson says. “But for us, I had a really good team that did some diligence, and we felt really confident. We had spent a long time — I can’t even remember the timelines anymore, but I think from March until we announced in August we were planning the entire time.” Their efforts paid off, and the Jamo Presents team was able to put on 28 shows at the Lot over the course of seven weeks, with about 5,000 tickets sold in total. A slew of local and regional acts graced the stage during that time, with performances by Tonina, Mvstermind, Dave Grelle, the Burney Sisters, the Funky Butt Brass Band and many more. Jamo Presents even has the distinction of being the very first to bring a touring act back to town since everything was shut down, in the form of Andy Frasco & The U.N.’ show in October, 2020.

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OPENING PAGE :

Beth Bombara. Photo: Nate Burrell. ABOVE: Galactic is set to play the Big Top. Photo: Partisan Arts

With that series a success, and with a new partnership with City Foundry that saw the promotion company booking socially distanced shows in its indoor space during the colder months, Jameson is once again looking forward to bringing the action to the outdoors. Starting in April and running through the month of June, City Foundry plays host to a slate of concerts, booked by Jamo Presents, on an outdoor stage. The series will see performances from NandoSTL, Neal Francis, the Floozies, Old Salt Union and a return trip by Andy Frasco, among others. Jameson says that, compared to the dizzying confusion at the beginning of last year, he and his team feel like they have a good handle on how to run things for this series. He’s excited to move outdoors again, where enforcing mask compliance is less of a pain. “We can’t wait to be back outside,” he says. “We’ve done that exact floor plan before outdoors somewhere else. And plus you don’t have to be nearly as hard

about masking when you’re inside your pods when it’s outside.” In addition to the Foundry series, Jameson has teamed up with the Kranzberg Arts Foundation to book some shows at the Big Top tent venue in Grand Center. Late March saw a performance by Martin Sexton, and Ghost-Note made an appearance in April, as did Reverend Peyton’s Big Damn Band; future shows on the books include a performance by Galactic on May 16. And those Big Top events are just part of the picture for the Kranzberg Arts Foundation. Executive Director Chris Hansen says the group will continue on with its popular Open Air series outside of the Dark Room in Grand Center, with 40 weeks’ worth of programming already on the books for 2021. Highlights include concerts by Beth Bombara, Western States, Coco Soul, Short Round Stringband and many more. “Open Air is the longest-running concert series since the pandemic — we’ve

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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put over 100 bands on stages since last July,” Hansen says. “We’ve invited audiences safely to re-engage the arts, and we’ve been able to do that in a contactless way where there’s absolutely no potential for exposure, artists are getting paid very well and audiences are having world-class art experiences. It’s been really successful, and we’re going to continue it at least until the end of September.” According to Hansen, the Open Air series has seen no instances of community spread in all the months it’s been operating. That means no staff illness, no guest illness, no calls from the health department. Hansen credits his team’s diligence regarding safety measures, as well as some useful technological solutions, for the COVID-safe nature of the series. “The reality is, in the environment that we’ve created, no one is within six feet of each other. And our staff, the total table time that someone would be at your table dropping off food and drinks is within a minute, the entire time you’re there,” he explains. “I mean, you’re literally ordering everything in advance; you’re just dropping it and going. So we just created an environment where no one can really be near each other in that way for long enough for there to be a problem. And we’ve maintained a fully ventilated space — even in the winter when we put partial walls back on the tent, we left six-foot openings in at least four locations around the tent, and we pushed in fresh air heat from a maxi heater that’s pulling in fresh air, warming it up through diesel fuel and pushing it into the environment. So the entire environment is ventilated the whole time.” While both Hansen and Jameson are happy with the setups they’ve conceived for their respective outdoor concert spaces, each is eagerly looking forward to being able to book indoors once it is safe

Catch NandoSTL at City Foundry. Photo: rabsopetty

to do so. Hansen hopes they’ll be able to start moving things back into the Dark Room for similar dinner-and-a-show packages as those offered by the Open Air series come fall. Jameson is hopeful that he’ll be able to safely book shows with fewer restrictions by the time the weather gets cold again as well. But both recognize that the realities of the situation may require more patience. Meanwhile, though, the outdoor shows each has been able to help provide have been a welcome respite from the drudgery of pandemic life. “It’s not an easy moment. But we’re sticking to it and fighting the fight,” Jameson says. “Until the city allows us to ease up, we’re here.” n For tickets and more information on the City Foundry series, visit jamopresents. com. For tickets and more on the Open Air series and events at the Big Top, visit kranzbergartsfoundation.org.

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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FEED Your Adventure Here’s WHERE TO EAT near your favorite destinations By Cheryl Baehr riverfronttimes.com

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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OPENING PAGE : Thai Kitchen goes great with a hike at Sioux Passage. See all of our restaurant pairings. Photo: Mabel Suen | ABOVE: Yolklore and a visit to Laumeier Sculpture Park is a good morning. Photo: Mabel Suen

By Cheryl Baehr

IF YOU’RE HUNGRY after a

day spent in Forest Park, you need do little more than close your eyes and point in any direction to land on somewhere great to eat. The Central West End, the Loop, the Grove — even the park’s own Boathouse — all offer an embarrassment of culinary riches. Just down Kingshighway, Tower Grove Park, too, is surrounded by such incredible food neighborhoods as Botanical Heights and South Grand that the only hard part about finding somewhere great to eat is deciding between multiple favorites. St. Louis’ other outdoor gems may not appear so lucky on the surface. However, scratch just beneath and you’ll find some amazing dining treasures to satisfy both your hunger as well as the thrill of discovery.

Laumeier Sculpture Park

The gem of south St. Louis County, Laumeier Sculpture Park is an immersive feast for the eyes, but the restaurants within a short jaunt from its grounds will satisfy the palate. Yolklore (8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538), a delightful daytime spot just a short drive down Watson, flips the idea of fast-food on its head with outstanding, farm-to-table breakfast and lunch fare served out of a drive-thru. Twisted Tree (10701 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-394-3366), the reinvention of the old Northeastern Missouri institution the Pear Tree Inn, serves some of the best dry-aged steaks in town, made better with the addition of a deep-fried lobster tail. Of course, the eateries of Kirkwood are also only a short drive away, such as the wonderful the

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Greek Kitchen (343 South Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood; 314-462-9112) and Nathaniel Reid Bakery (11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood; 314-858-1019), which is one of the most acclaimed pastry shops in the country.

Rockwood Reservation

The West County dining scene has many options to help you refuel after a challenging hike up and down Rockwood Reservation’s steep grades. Clancy’s Irish Pub (40 Old State Road, Ellisville; 636-391-6154), a fifth-generation family-owned establishment that dates back to the 1930s, is worth a visit for the Irish Bites alone. If you’re more into Latin American cuisine than corned beer and Swiss-stuffed pretzels, Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience (15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville; 636-220-8514) offers outrageously good food based on old family recipes dating back 150 years. Another longtime family restaurant, Nippon Tei (14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-386-8999), has become the definitive source for sushi in the entire bi-state area over the last couple of years thanks to the skilled hand of the James Beard-nominated Nick Bognar. For more casual eats, stop by Mideast Market (14345 Manchester Road, Ballwin; 636-230-7018), where you’ll find excellent Middle-Eastern and South Asian dishes served from an unassuming lunch counter in the back of the grocery store. The gyro is a must-try.

World Bird Sanctuary

The World Bird Sanctuary may make you feel like you’ve gone far off the beaten path, it’s only a short hop from the heart of Valley Park and a handful of great dining spots. Dalie’s Smokehouse (2951 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park; 636-529-1898) brings the Pappy’s barbecue legacy within striking distance of the Sanctuary, offering best-in-class ribs, pulled pork and dry-rubbed wings. Young’s Restaurant &

Ice Creamery (206 Meramec Station Road, Valley Park; 636-225-6677) has been in business since 1954 as a casual, counter-service eatery that serves both sweet confections and homestyle dishes like chicken, fried fish and burgers. The Malt Shop (1751 Smizer Station Road, Fenton; 636-825-2121) is another of the area’s longtime favorites, beloved by Fentonites for its burgers and ice cream treats, and no visit to the area is complete without a stop at the Corner Butchery (2099 Bentley Manor Drive, Fenton; 636-529-8400), whose Gooey Louie sandwich is a shining jewel in the sparkling crown that is its lunch counter menu.

Sioux Passage Park

Located on the northern edge of north St. Louis County, Sioux Passage Park is a stunning spot for hiking and taking in views of the Missouri River. While in the area, check out Hendel’s (599 Rue St. Denis, Florissant; 314-837-2304), a general store-turned restaurant that’s been feeding Florissant residents since the 1800s. Just a few blocks away, Made. By Lia (610 Rue St. Francois, Florissant; 314-551-2383) is a charming pastry shop from Lia Weber, whose prowess with sweets earned her the title of TLC’s Next Great Baker, and BJ’s Bar & Restaurant (184 W. Washington Street, Florissant; 314-837-7783), whose mozzarella-based take on classic St. Louis style pizza will win over your Provel-averse out-of-town friends. The area also has some excellent international cuisine, like the Middle Eastern gem Kaslick Mediterranean Cuisine (7487 N. Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-972-8282) or the outstanding Thai Kitchen (8458 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-695-5039), whose khao soi stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the city’s better-known spots for the dish.

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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As long as you're in the neighborhood, treat yourself to Nathaniel Reid Bakery Photos: Mabel Suen

Cahokia Mounds

Arguably the area’s most significant historical treasure, Cahokia Mounds beckons with the thrill of discovery. For those on the Missouri side of the river, it only makes sense to carry that feeling outside of the park grounds and have dinner in the surrounding areas before making the venture home. Old Herald Brewery & Distillery (115 E. Clay Street, Collinsville, IL; 618-388-8027) pays homage to the former Collinsville Herald newspaper, as well as the city’s forgotten brewing and distilling history. Though not even two years-old, Big O’s (2001 Hildebrand Street, Madison, IL; 618-5937629) in Madison has the feeling of a longtime watering hole with surprisingly delicious eats — including breakfast starting at 6 a.m. — served out of its humble digs. Not far away, Tienda El Ranchito (2565 N. 32nd Street, East St.

Louis, IL; 618-875-1521), a combination market and food counter, serves some of the best Mexican food on either side of the river. However, you won’t want to leave the area without stopping in at longtime eatery Marko’s Fish House (820 Madison Avenue, Madison, IL; 618-8769212) for its famous fried cod, which fans far and wide swear is the best fish sandwich you’ll ever eat.

Pere Marquette State Park and the Great River Road

When you think of a trip up the Great River Road to Pere Marquette State Park, your mind rightfully goes to Fast Eddie’s Bon Air, the iconic bar and restaurant in Alton that draws people from all over just to experience its cheap eats, cold beer and lively atmosphere. However, the area is also home to other great eateries like the famed Whittmond Hotel (166 East Main Street, Brussels, IL; 618-883-2345),

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Going to the Gateway Arch? You're going to want to grab lunch at Kimchi Guys. Photos: Mabel Suen

whose family-style dinners will make you feel like you’ve stumbled back in time to Sunday supper at your great-great grandmother’s house. Castelli’s Moonlight Restaurant at 255 (3400 Fosterburg Road, Alton, IL; 618-462-4620), another area institution, has been serving its secret family recipe for famous fried chicken since 1937. Another source for fried chicken for those looking for a little something different is CC’s Vegan Restaurant (233 East Delmar Avenue, Alton, IL; 618-433-8300), an outstanding source for plant-based cuisine from the skilled hands of Trezel Brown. Her vegan mac and cheese, fried chicken and lasagna flip the narrative on what plant-based food can be.

The Arch

Though the Gateway Arch stands as the symbol of our fair city, visited by folks from all over the world, the area around its grounds still has an off-the-beatenpath feel. The once thriving Laclede’s Landing has seen better days, for sure,

but there are a handful of places that are determined to make the area a destination again. Kimchi Guys (612 North 2nd Street, 314-766-4456), the outstanding Korean fried chicken spot from the Landing visionary Munsok So, could make the area a culinary destination on its own. For a more formal experience, longtime steakhouse Al’s Restaurant (1200 North 1st Street, 314-421-6399) is an absolute icon of the area, it’s steamboat-themed bar a St. Louis landmark in its own right. Just across the highway, the delightful coffeeshop Café de Blaire (442 North 4th Street, 314-737-7701) is in the middle of downtown but has the feel of a warm, neighborhood spot thanks to its wonderful coffee drinks, pastries and ice cream. Of course, if it’s ice cream you crave — and enough bacon to take ten years off your life — there’s nowhere better than Crown Candy Kitchen (1401 St. Louis Avenue, 314-621-9650), the St. Louis landmark soda fountain and lunch counter that may rival the Arch as the area’s biggest icon. n

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

Seek and Ye Shall FIND

IT WAS A gloomy day in Forest

Park. I stood a few feet off the John F. Kennedy trail, my head down, kicking leaves. Watching me was Patrick Blindauer (who’s published over 60 crosswords in the New York Times) and his dog, Penny. Blindauer pointed at a fallen tree. “The V,” he said. “Oh.” I bent down to where two branches made a “V” and rummaged through wet leaves. Beneath was a plastic container

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

wrapped in camouflage duct tape. “Nice.” “That’s it.”

THERE IS A WORLD hidden to the unsuspecting eye. It lies in faux screws, ruffled foliage and S.P.O.R.’s (suspicious pile of rocks). To the muggle glance, it is all but invisible. This is the world of letterboxing and geocaching. (“Muggle,” as defined by atlasquest. com: “Someone who, for some horrible

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(Maybe) Enter the world of LETTERBOXING & GEOCACHING By Jack Killeen (not pictured) riverfronttimes.com

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

reason, has never discovered the joys of letterboxing and is more likely to mistake a strange box in the woods as something evil rather than an object of great beauty and joy. A term borrowed from the well-known Harry Potter books where a muggle is someone without magic powers.”) Next time you’re in a park, or a restaurant, or City Museum, look around. There may be a letterbox, or a geocache, right there, under that thing. Or look at the people. Are any of them searching, but not too conspicuously? Do they mutter to themselves, retrace their steps, then perk up and smile? Do their heads spin and their eyes flash, looking for anyone watching? You may have found a letterboxer/geocacher. Letterboxing and geocaching are like siblings. At first glance, one sees the family face — they’re both treasure-hunt style activities that can involve hiking, clue-solving and befuddlement — but upon closer inspection, the differences reveal themselves. Letterboxing takes a crafty spin on the search-and-find sport. Participants who successfully find a letterbox, which range from “drive-by” (five to ten minutes) to “thru-hike” (fifteen-plus miles) in difficulty, are rewarded with a stamp (don’t take it; just use it). Most stamps often hand-carved and wholly unique. For Blindauer, it’s as much about making stamps as finding them, if not more. Letterboxers have their own stamps to

mark the notebook contained in each letterbox. Blindauer’s is an ampersand with a "t" made out of its tail — “St. Ampersand,” he calls it. A wonderfully multi-layered meaning, encompassing the St. Louis Cardinals logo, the word “stamp” and Blindauer’s love of the ampersand. Penny’s stamp is a dog paw. Geocaching offers a clean, what-you’dexpect-in-2021 website, as well as an easy to use, well-designed phone application. Unlike letterboxing, caches don’t have stamps. If the cache is big enough, there are trinkets, or “swag,” that you’re allowed to swap out with an item of your own: action figures, slinkies, a nice glove or whatever will fit. There’s a list where you sign your name to feel a sense of accomplishment and having existed in this cruelly forgetful world which pops you in its mouth and chews like a baseball player — you’re the sunflower seed — then spits you out on the ground to decompose wet with all the others. Blindauer and I met in the St. Louis Art Museum parking lot on a Friday morning. He lent me a chunk of a pink eraser and some carving materials with which I made a stamp on the trunk of my car. It was a square, windmill-ish design, something I doodle in the margins of my notebooks. We drove to the southwestern-most corner of the park, my car tailing his, where our letterboxing adventure began. Six years ago, as an incoming senior in high school, I took a geocaching summer school class. The course promised a P.E. credit, which normally

Letterboxing takes a crafty spin on the search-and-find sport. Participants who successfully find a letterbox are rewarded with a stamp (don’t take it; just use it)

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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OPENING PAGE : Patrick Blindauer and his search partner Penny at an undsclosed site. ABOVE: The hunt will take you to nearby places you've somehow never been. RIGHT: Messages from the other people like you, who took the time and effort to wade out into the world and find something unknown, await your successful find. Photos: Jack Killeen

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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took a whole semester, in five days — a good deal, I thought. What I remember from that week: rain, heavy, every day; Teacher 1 at the front of the bus saying he never cared much for beer and Teacher 2 replying that, well, it’s an acquired taste, like coffee; wading through knee-high water on a trail in Castlewood; hiding in a tower in Lone Elk Park with three other students as we waited for the rain to stop while we ate our lunches, then eventually deciding to brave it; water soaking through my rain jacket and all my clothes; the high of finding a cache after a half hour of scouring dead leaves and fallen logs, occasionally looking up at the branches, thinking no way that bastard put it up there. In a way that I can’t explain, it felt like Lord of the Rings. All that being said, letterboxing was what I expected. The memories and feelings from that high school summer

— the searching and the frustration and the light, little excitement upon discovery — came back to me one at a time. “Ah yes, this,” I found myself thinking. You’ve got to have hobbies, otherwise you’ll go crazy expecting everything you do to have a big, great meaning. Go outside, I say, go look for a box hidden in the woods or on a sidewalk a few blocks from your apartment and do it just for fun. Sometimes it’s nice to do something meaningless. Meaningless things are fun, too. Blindauer and I had a good time. We discussed crosswords, Blindauer’s five-year-old daughter and that Riverfront Times Art Director Evan Sult plays drums for Sleepy Kitty, and we also found two letterboxes. When I drove off, rolling down the passenger-side windows to wave goodbye, I felt grateful to have met another human and spent an hour looking for notebooks in the woods to mark with a stamp. n

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

HEAD for

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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the HILLS CAHOKIA MOUNDS is a mind-bending window into a past world

By Danny Wicentowski

THE METRO EAST, like the

rest of Illinois, is a mostly vast expanse of flat, swampy prairie, but about a thousand years ago, a little-understood native culture built massive earthen mounds that now exist as evidence of a complex and densely populated city — which at its height included rings of “suburb” dwellings that extended across the river to the areas of present-day St. Louis. Today, the Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site (30 Ramey Street, Collinsville, IL) is spread out over

three-and-a-half miles of crisp green grassland — and is dominated by the 100-foot-tall Monks Mound. Taking the stairs to the top platform, the view extends for miles. However, before attempting to surmount the mound, visitors should head to the interpretive center — which is different than a museum, notes archeologist and the center’s executive director Lori Belknap. “Our goal is that the visitors would leave with an understanding of the life of the people who lived here a thou-

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

sand years ago,” she explains. “That interpretation given to visitors is grounded in science. Everything we are telling you are things that we have learned through excavations, and we keep it very close to the actual data we recovered in early digs.” Along with hundreds of excavated artifacts, the center’s exhibits illustrate the remarkably urban existence of the nearly 20,000 residents believed to have lived, worked and died in Cahokia at its height around the year 1200 A.D. Though they left behind no writing, the Cahokians did leave structural demonstrations of their knowledge, including “Woodhenge,” a solar calendar of wooden posts that’s been functionally rebuilt on the site. Every year, on solstice and equinox, crowds gather in the ancient circle to watch the sunrise. That the center is dedicated to

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Only a tiny part of the total area has been excavated, and researchers have spent years looking at the possibilities presented by the evidence they uncover. interpretation, not just preservation, also hints at the mystery of the fate of the Native American culture that thrived here. Only a tiny part of the total area has been excavated, and researchers have spent years looking at the possibilities presented by the evidence they uncover. The Interpretive Center lays out these threads with lushly illustrated maps and

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models, as the galleries and exhibits tell the story of the end of a powerful civilization, one that had once been part of a continent-spanning trade network and religious system that was already centuries gone by the time the first Europeans arrived. The Cahokia represents the largest settlement of “Mississippian” culture, which in Southern Illinois grew to a population of tens of thousands by maintaining huge agricultural operations. Today, the people are gone, but the impact of their lives and work remains. Belknap argues that it’s important that the current residents recognize the depth of history in the land around them.

“Our site dominated that area at the time,” Belknap says. “It went into East St. Louis and across the river. It was a very large civilization here, and it’s important for people to understand that.” She says the center hopes that easing pandemic restrictions in the coming months will allow the site to schedule its usual array of kids and archeology events for the year. In the meantime, the walking and hiking paths remain open, covering sixteen total miles in a loop through the peaceful, mound-punctuated landscape. The Interpretive Center is open to the public, though visitors are asked to RSVP at 618-346-5160 so the center can maintain an occupancy limit and social distancing. n

OPENING PAGE : Modern-day mounds stand as mute testament to the societies that preceded us along the Mississippi River. Photo: Danny Wicentowski | ABOVE: A depiction of the day-to-day life of the culture that created the mounds. Photo courtesy Cahokia Interpretive Center

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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ADVERTORIAL

Come Explore St. Louis City, St. Louis County, and St. Charles County Via the Greenways!

GREAT FUN ON THE GREENWAYS Get Outside on St. Louis’ Growing Network of Greenways St. Louis is known for the Gateway Arch, Forest Park and the Mighty Mississippi. But did you also know it is home to a growing network of greenways connecting the region’s parks, rivers, cultural landmarks and communities? In 2000, voters in St. Louis City, St. Louis County and St. Charles County dreamed big by voting for and investing in a dynamic network of parks and open space. This vote created Great Rivers Greenway, the public agency tasked with building, bringing to life, and caring for a planned 600 mile network of greenways. What is a greenway? More than just a trail, greenways are outdoor spaces that connect people and places. No two greenways are alike; some travel through quiet

wooded areas, others offer a more urban experience connecting to shopping districts, transit, parks and neighborhoods. They meander along rivers, climb bluffs, and wind behind neighborhoods and businesses to provide direct connections to the places you want to go. They also reveal hidden views and panoramic vistas you’ll never see from a parking lot or behind the wheel of a car. Thanks to the voter’s vision and foresight, there are nearly 130 miles of greenways to explore and enjoy on foot, bike, or wheelchair. The next time you want to explore the St. Louis region— try a greenway. The journey will be as much fun as the destination! Find a greenway near you at GreatRiversGreenway.org

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It’s easy to plan your trip by visiting GreatRiversGreenway.org. There are three ways to find greenways; a list, a map and an interactive search feature. You can search by keyword, location, or by selecting detailed search criteria. Some of the options include what you want to see or do (explore history, grill, play); favorite type of trail (paved, hilly or flat) or distance. You can also identify your ideal greenway experience with choices such as shady or sunny, urban or rural or those that offer river views. The website also offers detailed information about the region’s greenway, special events, project updates and more.

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

Chase a N

RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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New VIEW UNIQUE SPOTS to relax outdoors in the St. Louis area By Riley Mack

EVERYBODY NEEDS A little

inspiration to shake up their usual routines sometimes. To keep your outside excursions from getting stale, we’ve got five rut-busting places to explore.

Ellen Clark Sculpture (and Unofficial Dog) Park

The Ellen Clark Sculpture Park is the perfect outdoor oasis planted right in the middle of Midtown. Located on the corner of Grand and Lindell boulevards, it sits adjacent to the stunning St. Francis Xavier College Church on Saint Louis

University’s campus. While the views outside the park’s gates are intricate old buildings and a beautiful cityscape, the feeling within its boundaries is more equivalent to the striking natural scenery of Forest Park. The park, covered in bright green grass and shady trees, acts as a refuge from the chaos that lies just beyond its fence. While the surrounding city has sounds of cars in traffic, the park has sounds of dogs’ collars jingling and birds chirping overhead. Picnic tables and benches are sprinkled throughout,

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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OPENING PAGE : The Ellen Clark Sculpture Park has become a go-to spot for appreciating the beauty of both art and dogs. Photo: Stephen Kennedy | ABOVE: Laumeier Sculpture Park invites you to see and be seen. Photo: Jaime Lees

making it the ideal spot to sit and enjoy the view. The park started out as a stunning display of the colorful and vibrant sculptures of Brother Mel Meyer, the late Marianist monk and prolific artist, and it’s also become a favorite of dog owners who account for most of the visitors. Whether you own a dog or not, the Ellen Clark Sculpture Park is the perfect destination for art enthusiasts, dog people or just nature lovers looking for a place to relax in the city.

Round Lake in Forest Park

One of the smallest bodies of water in Forest Park, Round Lake is a wise

choice if you’re looking for a sunny day activity with few crowds. The lake sits on the northeast corner of the park, between Kingshighway and Lindell Boulevard. Even during busy weekends, parking is easy to find as it is far from the more-coveted Zoo and Art Hill spots. There are plentiful benches and picnic tables to sit and enjoy the view of the water. While the natural scenery is obviously gorgeous, a beautiful cityscape is just a short walk away. Truly, it’s the best of both worlds for the city and nature-loving introverts looking for a relaxing escape to a usually crowded park. As the masses of visitors head for the center of

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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Forest Park, rest assured there will be plenty of space to spread out and relax at the equally stunning Round Lake.

Laumeier Sculpture Park

Laumeier Sculpture Park is a 105-acre museum and sculpture garden that is entirely outdoors. The park is located in Sunset Hills and is complete with a walking trail leading the way to more than 70 sculptures. Laumeier, populated with the towering, mesmerizing and quirky pieces, is an excellent place to take in some culture while outdoors. One of the more popular attractions at the sculpture park is the Eye sculpture made by Tony Tasset in 2007. The gigantic fiberglass piece sits at nearly 12 feet tall, a humongous model based off of Tasset’s own blue eyes. The park’s website says the “never-blinking, constantly conscious piece watches over Laumeier day and night.” The park welcomes visitors each day from 8 a.m. and closes 30 minutes after sunset. It is also a great destination for an interesting photo-op. While most of the sculptures sit on the museum lawn and sculpture garden, there are also fields, woods, and trails to explore the natural scenery, as well. If you’re looking for a free attraction to enjoy some compelling artwork while outdoors, Laumeier might be the perfect underrated spot for you.

Gateway Geyser

The Gateway Geyser may be the coolest attraction along the Mississippi River — second only to the Gateway Arch, of course. The Geyser is a man-made, large-scale fountain that is located just across the river from the Arch, in East St. Louis. It is capable of shooting 7,500 gallons of water into the air, and on a typical day, it sprays up to 630 feet high. The idea for the Gateway Geyser grew

out of a plan by Eero Saarinen, the architect who designed St. Louis’ beloved Arch. Saarinen’s original concept was to have matching archways adjacent to one another from across the river. Instead, the Illinois side of the river was given the Gateway Geyser, that can shoot water to the exact same height as the Arch, making it one of the tallest water fountains in the country. The geyser is located in the Malcolm W. Martin Memorial Park, where there are grassy spots to enjoy the surrounding natural scenery, and benches where you can sit and take in the view of the Geyser and the Arch. Either way, the Gateway Geyser is a fascinating monument that marries St. Louis’ interesting history and a beautiful outdoor setting.

Rootwad Park

Rootwad Park is an attraction created by the late Bob Cassilly, the creative mastermind of City Museum. The project is one of his unfinished works, filled with the industrial ruins of St. Louis’ history. Located on O’Fallon Street near the Mississippi River, the park is an ideal destination to explore and take photos. Cassilly started building Rootwad with the hope of showing the beauty in old, neglected items. Among the attractions are the abandoned structures of the Laclede Power Station and the Cotton Belt Freight Depot, both built in the early 1900s. Also within the park is a bridge made from repurposed mechanical items that are covered in graffiti and concrete turtle and snake sculptures similar to the ones alongside Highway 40. Rootwad Park is a fascinating setting for an outdoors adventure and often serves as the scene of outsider art performances. It’s truly an only-in-St. Louis destination. n

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

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RFT CITY GUIDE 2021

Riverfront Times, City Guide 2021

Articles inside

Head for the Hills

Seek and Ye Shall Find (Maybe) by Jack Killeen

Chase a New View

Takin’ a Ride by Jaime Lees

Feed Your Adventure