In Culpeper, Foti’s charms with thoughtful food and staff By Kate Andrews
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platoon of waiters and waitresses marched through Foti’s dining room toward a table of 10, setting plates down in unison. we knew the food would be special here; the chef used to work at the inn at little washington, a résumé line that comes with certain expectations. But what really makes Foti’s (540-8298400 or fotisrestaurant) memorable is the friendly, unfussy and earnest service. My boyfriend, Craig, and i traveled the backroads to downtown Culpeper on one of the hottest days of the year — weather that doesn’t lend itself to fancy clothes, although we did our best to look presentable. Yet we needn’t have worried about a maitre d’ looking down his nose at us or handing Craig a house sports jacket. Foti’s wait staff appears to aim to make every guest feel contented and comfortable. they’ll
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happily offer extra bread and lavender butter, send the wine steward over to translate the extensive drink menu, or simply replace used silverware immediately. Foti’s, opened in 2005, established a great reputation early, wowing washington gourmands willing to make the trip to Culpeper. Both Chef Foteos “Frank” Maragos, whose childhood nickname was Foti, and his wife and service manager, Sue, came from the
Clockwise from top left: Culpeper’s historic Davis Street; Foti’s open-faced egg sandwich with country ham, Parmesan cheese and garlic ciabatta; reds at Chateau de Reaux; Foti’s chef and owner Frank Maragos
Top center: photo by Jonathan Timmes/courtesy Foti’s; all other photos by Steve Hedberg