PAMELA FRASER DESIGNS

An Interview with Pamela Fraser Designs

Interview by Laura Murdie Find out all you need to know about the process of getting your very own wedding dress individually designed so that no other bride will ever have the same dress as you

Pamela Fraser Designs is a Scottish wedding dress designer based in Angus, Scotland. Focusing on the perfect garment, Pamela ensures every dress that she designs is individual and one of a kind for all her brides. Due to the individual service Pamela is giving, the bride is encouraged to be as involved as they would like with the process so that their dress reflects their personality and style.

Pamela is self-employed and runs the business by herself in her studio where she designs and makes her gowns. This is also where clients come for appointments to discuss their dream dress and try it on as it comes together. These fittings allow her to first make a toile, which is a mock up style dress made of cotton. This is to make sure the dress fits perfectly to the bride’s body before using any silk or expensive materials, saving costs and not wasting valuable silk. This also is the perfect time to change any style choices, e.g. a different neckline or sleeve length rather than further down the line. As well as individually designed dresses, Pamela also has a collection of garments which are available to buy or use as inspiration when creating your own dress.

1. When did you first set up your business and why?

I started my business in January 1990. When I first qualified from SCOT (was Scottish College of Textiles now Heriot Watt University Galashiels campus) I wanted to start my own business but everyone advised me to work in industry first. I followed their advice and worked in a design room for seven years where I designed children’s clothing for high street stores and gained great experience. But at this time it was cheaper to get clothes made in the Far East so the company I worked for could not compete on price and so the factory was forced to close. I took this as an opportunity to use my redundancy money to start my own business. I enjoyed everything I worked on in the design room but after seven years it was time for me to move away from mass production to a more one-to-one design focused business. While I was still working in mass production I had already started to make wedding dresses so I was beginning to move in the direction of my future business.

2. What was the reason you wanted to go into the wedding dress business?

I wanted to go into the wedding dress business as it just seemed to be a natural fit for me. As a teenager I loved to sew and make my own clothes. My mum always made me amazing pieces so I think I got the bug from her. I also liked to draw and colour intricate design patterns. I have always been interested in dresses whether day or evening dresses with impressive details such as beading or stitch work. I love being able to sketch a dress, make the pattern for it and then go through the process of making it. Therefore, I thought it was a good idea to start a business using my skills and doing something I loved to do. I chose wedding dresses as I felt customers would pay for having a bespoke wedding dress made rather than everyday clothing. People have got so used to getting clothes made so cheaply that I felt the business would not survive on casual wear alone. As

the clothing industry was in decline in the 1990s, there was a market for having wedding dresses individually designed and made in Scotland and I wanted to offer that service. suit individual customers and their skin tones. You must also be able to work out the cost of bespoke outfits.

3. What is your favourite thing about your job?

I love the one-to-one contact with my brides from the initial chat about their design ideas for their wedding dress, to going through the whole process to the finished dress and seeing the joy in their face at that stage. Everyone has their own idea of their perfect wedding so it is such a treat to be involved making the dress fit their ideas. It is such an inspiration to keep making more wedding dresses. I love to show brides all the fabrics and laces which are available to suit their dress style. At this stage, I can show them different qualities of fabrics to suit their individual dress budget. I think this is a great option to offer as some people think a bespoke dress will be out of their budget, but I love to be able to show them that, if they choose, for example, a polyester and silk mix rather than a 100% silk fabric, it could fit their budget. I love the process of making a toile which is made to fit the dress to the individual bride so it is like moulding it to individual body shapes.

4. What training did you go through to become a designer?

As previously mentioned, I loved to sew as a child and then at school I did my Highers which included Art and Fabrics & Fashion which gave me a taster to see what I was getting into. I went to the Scottish College of Textiles, now Heriot Watt university campus, in Galashiels. I did a four-year course which covered design, pattern cutting, marketing, garment making, economics and statistics, production management and knowledge of textiles. As part of the course we had to go out into industry for two placements where I earned invaluable experience. This course was such a good grounding for all aspects required to start up your own business. It also suited me as I wanted to have the skills to not only draw an outfit but to be able to bring the outfit to life through pattern cutting and garment making. Just before I started my business, I also did a business start-up course where I worked out a business plan to help me structure my company and help me stay on track with costs.

7. How do you stay up to date regarding fashion within your designs?

I stay up to date with fashion by being aware of what is happening in the industry. There is so much information about fashion you can find through looking at catwalk shows, magazines, red there are some more unusual carpet outfits, what celebrities fabrics that are new to the are wearing and market made from sustainable specific wedding designer shows. I products. For example, some also like to keep up are even using rose petals and to date with all the new fabrics which orange citrus juice by-products are produced and they give me inspiration to use in new designs. The brides can also keep me up to date with fashion as many have researched a lot of dresses before they come to me so they show me some up to date styles they personally like. As my signature style is not fast fashion there is not the same short life span for these dresses.

8. Sustainability is a key trend right now. In your line of work, what measures are you taking to be more environmentally friendly?

At the present time I am seeing amazing eco-friendly laces and fabrics being produced and available to buy from my suppliers which is very exciting. Many manufacturers are now turning to recycled polyesters and viscose meaning that old, unused fabrics are being turned into something new and fresh giving it a new lease of life. On the other hand, there are some more unusual fabrics that are new to the market made from sustainable products. For example, some are even using rose petals and orange citrus juice by-products which is quite hard to comprehend but it is the way forward! I am looking forward to promoting them to my brides to use in their bespoke dresses and use them in my collection to see how they perform as fabrics. I am also promoting the fact you can have a dress designed and made in Scotland with no long waits for dresses to come from abroad reducing air miles being more environmentally friendly which is an added bonus.

5. How would you describe your signature design style?

My signature style is elegant and classic with a modern twist using good quality silks and man-made fabrics. The way the dress fits and suits the individual body shape is a big part of my signature style. I like simple clean lines with interesting detailing on my dresses. When I am using beautiful fabrics and laces, I want to show them off to their best.

6. What skills according to you are necessary to become a successful fashion designer?

As a designer you need to be a good listener to interpret what the customer is looking for and be able to guide them to a design which will suit their personality and their body shape. You need to have a good knowledge of fabrics so you can advise which will suit specific designs. You need to have the skills to be able to sketch out ideas, produce patterns and make the dress or be able to tell someone how to make it. You need to have a good eye for colour and which colours Photographs by Emilie Gray

Annie wears: Violette gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £870

NOT YET at the Altar

Waiting for the big day, but stronger than ever

Annie wears: Ava gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1400

Annie wears: Daisy gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1250

Erin wears: Millie gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1500

Tiaras: Greypuss Jewellery Rest of jewellery: Models’ and Stylist’s own Shoes: Models’ own

Erin wears: Eloise bridesmaids gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £350 Photographed and Styled by Laura Murdie Models: Annie Scott & Erin Mitchell Hair and Makeup: Annie Voigt Location: Turin Castle

ONCE UPON A DREAM

Release your inner princess and Sparkle through life

Photographer: Robert Traynor Model: Lisa Sinead Tobin

White crop jumper, £12, H&M Pink skirt, Made by model Slogan tee, Charity shop

Gold dress, €500, Morilee by Madeline Gardner Coat, €150, Vintage Karen Millen Shoes, €87, Karen Millen