ERIC CHOONG

An interview with a seasoned Malaysian fashion designer about his journey and craft

written by Laurabelle Ng

Eric Choong, iconic Malaysian fashion designer and college professor, is known for his integration of traditional ethnic elements into his designs helping others recognise the beauty of his Southeast Asian roots. In 2018, he not only celebrated 30 years of designing and crafting in the fashion industry but was also acknowledged by the Malaysian Global Chamber of Commerce for his contributions.

His journey into the fashion industry started when he was very young; creating sketches and designs before even starting his secondary education. His passion for the art and support of his mother allowed him to pursue his love for fashion. After completing his studies in the Hong Kong Institute of Fashion Design in 1986, he further polished his craft before opening his label ‘Eric Choong’ in 1988.

His debut into the Malaysian fashion scene was very well received, leading him to be nominated by the Malaysian Tourism Board as one of the country’s top 10 fashion designers for three years in a row. Eric’s success did not stop there, he was not only continuously invited to participate and represent Malaysia in various fashion shows across Asia, but also requested in collaborations with famous luxury brands and media titles.

In the 2000s, Eric was commissioned by the founder of ‘PENYAYANG’, a charitable foundation launched to aid the less fortunate, to help raise funds and awareness about Malaysian batik and culture. Batik is a wax-resist dyeing technique which traditionally features floral motifs and bright colours. By studying its details and craftmanship, he was able to successfully introduce this centuriesold art into the modern world and nominated one of Malaysia’s top batik designers by the publishers of the book ‘Batik Inspirations’.

I was fortunate to guarantee an interview with Eric to not only ask

about his journey as a designer, but his relationship with the alluring fabric called batik.

Hi Eric, thank you for granting me this interview and discussing your work.

What inspired you to become the designer you are today?

My mother. She was a hair and make-up artist and has been my muse, cheerleader and mentor since I was born. She would always have multiple imported magazines from Hong Kong and Japan laying around the house which I would flip through and eventually gain my fascination for clothes and design.

How did your brand start out, and what was the turning point which made you interested in batik?

That’s an old story. I started my brand more than 30 years ago, when I was 24 years old. After graduating and returning to Malaysia, I started off as a wedding gown designer and branched out into haute couture bridalwear, followed by cocktail and corporate designs. In order to help my clients achieve their dream wedding, I expanded my label to include ‘Eric Choong Flowers’, a floral design service.

About 15 years ago, I was asked by the late Tun Endon Mahmood, wife of Malaysia’s former Prime Minister, loyal client and batik enthusiast, to include batik in garment designs such as baju kurung (traditional Malay costume) for her. Before her passing, she asked that I continue including batik in my designs and make it my priority to introduce and promote it to the international stage. Since then, I have always been representing Malaysia and going to China, Paris, Thailand, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Japan to promote my Batik collections in exhibitions and fashion shows.

What would you say is the most challenging aspect behind the creation and usage of batik?

When thinking about challenges, I like to ask myself questions. How to transform the old design and patterns, changing the preconceived pattern and design everyone has about batik? How do I transform the mindset of the public, that batik is only meant for formal functions in Malaysia? Malaysians don’t wear it for parties unless it is a specified theme

by the host, can I make it a part of their everyday wardrobe? Putting old patterns with new ideas, what new and trendy design can I make with this? These would be my biggest challenges and I enjoy it, as it is also very interesting for me.

Can you explain the thought process behind your collections?

I enjoy making things from scratch. I feel that handmade things have the temperature of the craftsman’s skillful hands. That being said, I start with my theme, what inspires me at the moment. Then I think about the shapes and silhouettes that I want to create, and how this will be enhanced and translated into the batik pattern. I work with batik designers to figure out how we will make these pieces come to life. It is a long but fun and rewarding process from beginning to end.

What would you say has been the highlight of your career so far?

I have two. The first was being invited by some of the ASEAN countries such as China, Thailand and Vietnam, to do workshops and share with the public about how we can innovate the creation and patterns of batik. The second was becoming a lecturer at ESMOD Kuala Lumpur, and sharing my skills, knowledge and experiences in the fashion industry over the past 30 years with the younger generations. I think this was one of my greatest achievements and exciting moments in my life.

How do you manage your time between teaching and managing your brand?

I would say it is an even split of 50/50 teaching and working on my brand. Most of my brand related work are consultant and mentor jobs for batik. One of them would be working with Thailand’s Ministry of culture, and their batik designers to create amazing batik pieces

for collections to promote batik around the world on behalf of the ASEAN countries.

Sustainable and ethical fashion is a growing trend nowadays. Have you been able to incorporate that into your designs, and how have you done so?

Since the beginning of 2020, I have been trying to use natural dyes. I have been trying my best to use eco-friendly dyes made from flowers, plants, and chemical-free dyes to produce tie-dyes and batik prints. Recently, I have also started painting, and have been making use of fabric remnants, the small leftover pieces from making garments in making art pieces. Of course, I try transforming these small scraps of fabrics with natural “Never! I was born to be a dyes before incorporating them into my paintings. As a lecturer, I have also been encouraging my students to design designer” recycling fashion and collections.

Have you questioned your decision to become a designer?

Never! I think since I came out of my mother, I was a designer. My mother used to tell me that I used to draw with anything I could get my hands on, be it the wall, a piece of paper or the floor. I was born to be a designer! Fashion was not the most conventional choice of profession for any Malaysian boy back then. My father was against my decision, but as I have mentioned earlier, my mother has continuously encouraged and inspired me to be a designer and I still have passion for fashion. If I didn’t, I would not have become a lecturer and continue teaching about it.

What do you hope to achieve in the future?

I hope to stimulate the creative and cultural industry in Malaysia. For me, this industry is like an enormous forest which most Malaysians only recognise only one of its trees, the production chain. I want others to realise its creative value which ideally, should be casual and practiced routinely as part of our daily lives.

Any advice for young and upcoming designers that would like to start their own brand?

Firstly, if you are studying fashion now, learn as many skills as you can from your lecturers to get a good foundation. When you are done with your studies there is even more to learn from society, things you cannot learn in school such as good character and personality. This is something I always tell my students. Another thing is to have the passion for what you do, without this you can’t continue on. You cannot stop striving to be the best and exploring the opportunities available. As you know, in fashion you can be in one day, and the next day you are out. If you stop, someone will easily climb up and take your place. Lastly, you need to have an open mind and good attitude. Being stubborn and arrogant, thinking you are the best in the world will get you nowhere as you will stop moving forward from that point on.