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CASA DE CRIADORES
A partir de agora, passamos a oferecer a Color Service, cozinha de pigmentos e corantes, referência mundial em qualidade. Através de um processo seguro, as cores cadastradas serão elaboradas por um sistema automatizado, o que garante ao cliente a fidelidade de cores sempre. Como sempre a Lancaster garante a vocês, nossos clientes, o melhor produto do mercado.
by watching sci-fi movies of the 60’s (“Star Wars” in particular) that the designer found his path to work with three-dimensional pointy volumes in his modern party dresses. From past collections came the silhouettes close to the body, short-length pieces in structured and well-marked shapes, which he achieved with folds and maxi crimps, in a mixture of moulage and conventional shaping. But now, Rober refines and further enhances some elements of their parts to make them even more desirable and powerful. Getting rid of excesses, he bet again in short, working volumes now in a more timely fashion, sometimes dominating the entire piece, but without losing harmony. It’s also new that the simpler, more commercial looks now share space with more “conceptual” creations. Also from the last collection, he took a great work in deconstructed tailoring, but now elevated to a much higher level with more sophistication and richer, more elaborate (de)constructions. This is shown especially in his great semi-see through Lurex looks, with crimps and drapes that are showcased as simpler versions of the armor-like (or perhaps reptilian?) aspects that decorated the front and back of the dresses and some shirts. The big surprise this time came from Weider Silveiro. When turning to the King of Pop, Michael Jackson, for inspiration for his winter 2010 collection, the designer treaded through dangerous territory, filled with obvious clichés. But what was showcased on the runway was one of the most energetic and exciting collections in the House of Creators, and one of (if not the) best one in the stylist’s career. Weider made sure to approach almost all of the most essential elements in the pop idol’s career. Some took more literal forms - but still proved to be so smart decision, like the epaulettes of the military jackets overlaid with embroidery, or the deconstruction the pieces that, for example, applied in exceptional way the studs on a black dress full of sparkles - while others were more subtle, like the moon prints in reference to the moonwalk, or the medals and stars that appeared on the first dress, made of brown duct tape. If it is reminiscent of Balmain, it is not a question of copying as it is of the usage of very similar images as a starting point (or inspiration). Perhaps Weider could have distanced his work a little more and gained more creative freedom. But in the midst of such energy and thrills that his great presentation caused, all of that seemed secondary. To sum up, now that there are new, successful platforms, which are proving to be extremely promising, isn’t it time to review the main casting of the event?
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Karin Feller