the root of it all
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While sustainability and economics are obvious benefits of sustainable kitchen management, the most compelling reason for restaurants to introduce root-to-stalk to customers is taste. While the label may not sound appetizing, root-to-stalk cooking actually enriches standard fare with deep, uncommon flavors and colors.
leaves can be chopped and grated into a robust slaw according to Sexton. She also suggests using the delicious greens from turnips, Swiss chard and radishes, not just the stalks. When fava beans are in season in the spring, Publican Restaurant likes to use the whole plant, not just the beans, for pestos and purees.
“I always like to think about creativity and flavor first,” says Tara Duggan, chef, journalist and author of Root to Stalk Cooking: The Art of Using the Whole Vegetable. “Using these other parts of vegetables and fruits gives you new ways of working with the vegetables and uncovers new flavors and textures. For example, the long stalk and fronds from fennel are sweeter than a fennel bulb and have a stronger anise flavor, so you can use small amounts of them for a kick of flavor. You can try candying the stalks for desserts or cocktails, or using the fronds in place of dill in fish and vegetable dishes.”
Chef Saben recommends that chefs and their food buyers do a little research before experimenting with root-to-stem cooking: “The first step is to go to the local farmers' markets; talk to the farmers and vendors, develop a connection with the food and your source, and you will get an entirely new understanding of the many varieties of vegetables available, how to use them and when to use them. Only use what’s in season; some vegetables have a very short season so we like to cherish them and celebrate it on our menu.”
Ultimately, root-to-stalk challenges your kitchen to discover new flavors and be more creative in using all parts of the vegetable to make the most of their ingredients. Diners are always looking for something new and different and chefs willing to go back to the farm to discover and present uncommon or robust flavors not found in a grocery store package may inspire their customers. The root-to-stalk item can be the main attraction, or simply an unusual accent to enhance flavor. Presenting memorable new textures and flavors to seasonal menus also creates the opportunity to differentiate your menu from the competition, attract sustainability-conscious Millennial diners, and develop a relationship with curious foodies. Discarded in most kitchens, broccoli stems and
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Menus dedicated to locally sourced farm produce are constantly changing with the seasons, according to Sexton. “Micro seasons are trending now; some veggies are only available for two weeks in September, and that means a very different relationship with how you source your products, it’s definitely a trend to change the menu rapidly and put something on as a special for a few days.” While very little is in season during the winter months, the more advanced practitioner of farmhouse cuisine turns to their pickled produce and preserves to accent cold-weather menus with a taste of a bygone season. “We serve pickled corn in January to bring customers back to the crisp taste of summer,” remarks Saben. n