fall guide
Smoke signals
RN&R’s
on stands sept. 15
similar sweetness but with more vinegar and black pepper. The last sauce has just enough kick to make my palate sing. Sauce is included with every order, or you can buy a 16-ounce squeeze bottle ($8.50) to take home. Having home-smoked my share of ’que, I could already smell the smoke as I I can attest to the skill required to get beef parked my car at Sparks and Smoke BBQ brisket just right. Attention to temperature Takeout. For some, wood smoke may and smoke is crucial. Otherwise, the meat’s evoke warnings of wildfire or structures tough and nearly inedible. Too much in peril, but my brain leaps to thoughts of time or temp, and it’s best used for stew. meaty goodness cooked “low and slow.” This beef brisket ($18 per pound) is right I was almost drooling with anticipation in the Goldilocks zone—tender, smoky when I collected my order, and the drive and moist—served with fat trimmed to a home was torturous. minimum. The smoke is perfect, the bark I firmly believe you can’t go wrong terrific. Slather on some sauce, and you’ve if you stick with your strengths, and this got heaven on a plate. family-operated business is doing exactly The pulled pork ($16 per pound)— that. The available meats include pulled tender and moist, with nice bark and plenty pork and beef brisket—available as sandof smoke—was just a tad overshadowed wiches, plates or by the pound—as well as by the other meats. It paired very well with St. Louis-style ribs. I hear they occasionthe coleslaw ($4 per pound), a beguilingly ally have beef ribs, subtle combination so call ahead. Sweet of cabbage, carrot, Hawaiian-style rolls are green apple, vinegar, used for sandwiches, mustard and black but I was focused on pepper that was getting a mess o’ meat neither soupy nor 2900 Clear Acre Lane, 323-1803 and a couple of sides. sparksandsmokebbq.com overly sweet. I added There are many Open Thursday to Monday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. a couple shakes of good ways to do ribs. I salt and gobbled it don’t ascribe to a be-alldown with the pork. end-all method. I personally prefer them A side of iron pot beans ($4.50 per tender but still hanging onto the bone—just pound) turned out to be a mix of pinto enough that I have to give a little tug with and Great Northern beans, cooked until each bite. But for folks who love ’em best creamy in texture, with a chunk of briswhen they’re completely falling off the ket for flavor. They were a nice change bone, Sparks and Smoke is your hucklefrom the more typical sweet baked berry. I actually held a rib by one end, gave beans and ranch-style chili beans usually it a little shake, and the meat fell easily onto served with barbecue, though—as with the plate. The rub had good flavor on its the slaw—I added a dash of salt. own, but the addition of housemade sauces My wife is a big fan of cornbread. turned good into great ($25, full rack). Though I appreciate it, I let her be the Three housemade sauces are availjudge of what is and isn’t good. Her able, “White Collar,” “Blue Collar” and verdict on this example ($4): good corn “Mop Sauce.” The first is sweet without flavor, not too dry and the right balance any spice to speak of. The second has of sweetness. Ω
Sparks and Smoke BBQ Takeout
fall guide
owner Troy donson and the Thursday special, barbecued beef rib. PHOTO/ALLISON YOUNG
RN&R’s
by Todd SouTh
Family owned and serving Northern Nevada for over 50 years!! All-Purpose Tarps 5’x7’ to 20’x40’
Repurposed Metal & Poly Barrels
Made in the U.S.A Canvas & Poly Avail.
5-55 Gallons Food Grade Avail.
SHOP US ON
1675 E. 4th St. Reno. NV 89512 Mon-Sat 9:00am - 6:00pm Sunday 10:00am - 4:00pm (775) 323-5630 09.08.16
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