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Couture
Cool CRAFT A QUIET ACHIEVER WHO HAS SHUNNED THE LIMELIGHT, AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER AND LONG-TIME PARIS RESIDENT MARTIN GRANT IS DRAWING ACCOLADES FOR HIS IMPECCABLY TAILORED FASHIONS – AND A NEW UNIFORM COLLECTION FOR QANTAS. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY
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he sleek bronze sign is attached to a discreet 17th century building in the 3rd arrondissement. This is the atelier of Melbourneborn couturier Martin Grant, who has been based in Paris for more than 20 years, and who has kindly agreed to speak with us here. “I feel at home here, and I love the village atmosphere of the Haut Marais,” Grant says. Fine-boned and slightly built, with piercing blue eyes and a mild manner, Martin Grant is unassuming to a fault but his elegant creations reveal a sophisticated interpretation of the female body as a sculptural form. His clients include Cate Blanchett, Lee Radziwill and Juliette Binoche.
GROUNDED IN THE CLASSICS There is a refined elegance to Grant’s designs, whose key inspirations come from three important Paris-based designers. “From the age of 10, I remember poring over the book Dior in Vogue. After that it was Yves Saint-Laurent and Balenciaga.” “I like to keep things simple and classic. My designs are all about pure lines. I use minimal styling with rich fabrics, which give a slight touch of the baroque. Everything must be pared back for maximum beauty.” 88
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ESSENCE OF FRENCH STYLE Grant is fascinated by the paradox of French style. “The French do a terrific job of mixing the austere and the baroque. Just think of a French chateau. Outside it’s all clean lines and pure simplicity, while inside there is a cacophony of antiques, tapestry and paintings. In my own creations I combine sensual, voluptuous forms within a simple framework… always keeping in mind that I want to show off a woman’s body to its best. “I work directly on the mannequin. What is important is that the fabric always informs the piece. There is a huge difference in the draping qualities of, say, heavy wool or silk georgette so a hands-on approach is essential.” The technique of working on the mannequin dates back to 1930s haute couture. Grant loves Paris for its history, exquisite culture and architecture, and its proximity to everything in Europe. “It’s just a jump to the UK, Italy, Spain, and Greece. And even when the