MIZADO 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd. / 885-5555 MizadoCocina.com
DISCOVERING NUEVO LATIN A couple of years ago I read an article that predicted the next big food trend would be Nuevo Latin, cooking that takes advantage of the wealth of flavors and ingredients beyond the cooking of the MexicanAmerican border. Mizado was designed to expose diners to some of the diversity of the cuisines of Central and South America, including by expanding what we think of as “Mexican”
food. It is a bold venture, but one that’s been paying off for chefs Hans Limburg, Gary Darling and Greg Reggio (aka “the Taste Buds”) who are also responsible for Semolina and Zea Rotisserie & Grill. Mizado’s menu begins with a selection of guacamoles and salsas that start simply before taking off on interesting tangents. Adding pistachios to guacamole might not seem like much of a stretch, but the
“India” adds about banana, cumin and date and cashew chutney to the mix. Tomatillo salsa is played straight, with just garlic, onion, Serrano chiles and cilantro flavoring the tomatillos; but there’s also a chile de arbol salsa that includes pumpkin and sesame seeds, apple cider vinegar and cloves. Most of the salsas (particularly the orange-habanero) pack a serious amount of heat, another indication that the restaurant isn’t playing to the lowest common denominator crowd. Tacos range from the traditional (carnitas, chicken with ancho, grass-fed beef and chorizo) to the adventurous (alligator in adobo, duck confit with caramelized onions and pineapple-melon salsa and grilled scallops). Peruvian-style ceviches include salmon with citrus, habanero and avocado and scallop with tomato, pomegranate and melon. A more modern take on the dish called tiradito includes Gulf tuna with citrus ponzu, cucumber and jalapenos. The restaurant’s wood-burning grill produces an excellent Gulf fish with crema, chimichurri and Manchego cheese smashed potatoes, and is used to finish a beerbraised tri-tip steak served with smoked pork belly potatoes and more of the chimmicurri sauce that graces the fish. The menu is too large to fully address here, but there are similarly innovative recipes throughout. The Taste Buds have a deserved reputation for restaurants that produce consistently good food, but with Mizado they’re aiming higher. Fortunately, they’re hitting the mark. – R.P. myneworleans.com
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