DTB Oak is one of the streets in the New Orleans area that has a deserved reputation as a “restaurant row.” One of the newest, and best eateries on that street is DTB, an acronym for “Down the Bayou”; Chef Carl Schaubhut and his co-owner Jacob Naquin are both from Southwest Louisiana, and they describe the food at DTB as “coastal Cajun.” In practice, and with a talent like Schaubhut and Chef de Cuisine Jacob Hammel in the kitchen, that means both classic dishes rendered with a chef’s deft touch and ambitious takes on traditional flavors. There’s an oyster gratin made with smoked bivalves, Parmesan béchamel and gremolata; squash blossoms are stuffed with alligator chorizo, ricotta and olives, and served with sauce piquant. Grilled local fish comes with andouille sausage, fried pickles, corn, Swiss chard and chermoula, the tart, spicy Moroccan condiment.
These days, any place with ambition will have a bar program, and at DTB that program is in the hands of Lu Brow, one of the best in town. When I covered DTB earlier this year, I mentioned the Louisiana Cocktail, and I’m inclined to do it again, because Brow has taken a simple formula – the Sazerac – substituted an amaro for the Herbsaint, and added a mist of pecan oil. I thought the oil might have a deleterious effect on the drink, but it’s subtle, and the drink remains one of my favorites. The restaurant feels comfortable and modern, despite an abundance of wood salvaged from the renovation of the building, and decorative elements that include Spanish moss. Valerie Legras is responsible for the interior design, and Brooks Graham, whose name should be familiar to anyone who follows the local restaurant scene, was the architect. -RP
8201 Oak St. 518-6887 DTBnola.com