S EA S O N S B E S T
Spring pickings
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SPARAGUS IS the perfect example of the joys of eating seasonally. The arrival of the first asparagus is as much a signal that spring has sprung as the nest-building frenzy of our local magpies. There was a time when you just couldn’t buy asparagus at any other time (leaving aside the nasty canned variety that seems to bear very little relationship, flavour-wise, to the fresh vegetable). We resist all temptation to buy the out-of-season imported stuff, just for the joy of rediscovering asparagus every September.
Asparagus Asparagus is a very ancient vegetable. It originated in the Mediterranean and Asia Minor and was well known to the Egyptians and the Greeks. The Romans appear to have been the first to cultivate it and were responsible for spreading it all over Europe, whence it travelled, eventually, to the rest of the world. It was long thought to have medicinal benefits and has sometimes been regarded as an aphrodisiac, probably more because of its shape than from empirical evidence. Asparagus is an excellent source of Vitamin C, dietary fibre and supplies Bgroup vitamins. Asparagus can be white, green or purple. By now (October), the best of the white asparagus is probably gone, but you can enjoy the other varieties until December or even, with special growing techniques,
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late January. Early supplies of green and purple come from Queensland and Mildura, then the largest crop arrives from Koo-wee-rup in Victoria. Purple asparagus looks pretty, but loses its colour during cooking, so it’s best sliced thinly and eaten raw in salads. Green asparagus is the most popular due to its bright colour, fibre-free tenderness and sweet almost nutty flavour. Europeans often peel asparagus before cooking, but there’s absolutely no need to do so. When you choose asparagus, look for firm, crisp spears with compact tips. Sometimes you need to snap off woody asparagus ends but with today’s washed, trimmed neat bundles all you need to do is trim 1-2 cm from the base of each asparagus spear. Always check the end of spears to see they are dry, but not dehydrated or moist and weeping. Use asparagus as soon as possible after purchase. White should be used on the same day of buying. Green and purple can be wrapped in paper towels or a clean tea-towel and stored in the refrigerator crisper for 2-3 days.
Broad Beans This is another vegetable with a long history: it was the only bean known in the old world before the discovery of the Americas. Also known as the fava or shell bean, broad beans make a fleeting appearance in spring. Pod them as you would fresh peas. Cook in boiling water for a few minutes only, drain and toss in olive oil or melted butter. To discover another dimension of broad beans, try a chefs’ technique. After cooking, cool the beans quickly and drain. Slip-off and discard their pale green skins to reveal bright emerald-green beans. Toss for a few seconds in a little melted butter or olive oil over low heat and experience broad beans with an exquisite sweet and nutty taste.
Peaches and Nectarines The best peaches and nectarines will be available as the season gets into full swing from November through to April. Peaches and nectarines can be either ‘freestone’ (where the flesh easily twists away from the stone) or ‘clingstone’ (where the flesh clings to the stone). There are white and yellow fleshed peaches and nectarines, with the sweet white-fleshed varieties becoming increasingly popular. Store stone fruits out of the fridge. They are ready to eat when they emit a sweet aroma and ‘give’ a little when touched.
Mangoes First of season mangoes include KENSINGTON PRIDE and the sweet, TPPI variety which is torpedo-shaped and fibre-free. By now (October) mangoes should be plentiful and you should be able to buy them by the tray or case, to share with friends or simply indulge. The slim NAMDOC mangoes are the preferred cooking mango. They should be used while green and hard to make fragrant Thai Chicken or Prawn Salads or wonderful spicy Mango Chutney. Mangoes make a terrific salsa to go with prawns, crab, grilled fish or chicken or pork kebabs. MANGO SALSA In a bowl, stir equal quantities of Thai fish sauce, caster sugar and fresh lime juice until sugar is dissolved. Add finely chopped red onion, shredded kaffir lime leaves, sliced red chilli (to taste) and chopped mint or coriander leaves. Add 1 cm cubes of fresh mango and toss gently to combine.
R EGIONAL F OOD A USTRALIA
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